From - Wed May 21 10:35:11 1997 Return-Path: Majordomo-Owner@lists.teleport.com Received: (from daemon@localhost) by greta.teleport.com (8.8.5/8.7.3) id KAA09963; Wed, 21 May 1997 10:21:49 -0700 (PDT) Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 10:21:49 -0700 (PDT) Message-Id: <199705211721.KAA09963@greta.teleport.com> To: rossy@teleport.com From: Majordomo@teleport.com Subject: Majordomo file: list 'krnet-l' file 'v01.n012' Reply-To: Majordomo@teleport.com X-UIDL: 0be55e179ba0cd05b2df867c6abe7caf X-Mozilla-Status: 0001 Content-Length: 40159 -- From: owner-krnet-l-digest@ (krnet-l-digest) To: krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V1 #12 Reply-To: krnet-l-digest Sender: owner-krnet-l-digest@ Errors-To: owner-krnet-l-digest@ Precedence: bulk krnet-l-digest Sunday, May 11 1997 Volume 01 : Number 012 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 23:30:39 -0400 From: Carlos Sa Subject: RE: KR: /tools/ Progress Report Complaining about sanding is frequent (maybe you are supposed to; a ritual thing, maybe...). Mention to electric sanders is rare. Is there any drawback?? With so much sanding to do, I would expect most builders to use electric sanders... What is the scoop? Carlos - ---------- >I've begun the "sanding" phase of my project...... ... > -- Regards > Ross > Hi Ross, Your now at the fun part, sanding, sanding *@X%#@, may I suggest that you try a electric pad sander. I used a Mikita with 80 grit carbide/resin belt sandpaper that I cut for the pad sander. Just a quick swipe with the 80 grit and then change to 100 grit. Be very careful because you can go through the fiberglass very easily. My whole plane was done this way. Had to do a few patches and went through the fiberglass because my arm got lazy. My feeling to do it any other way is pure torture. XX SNIP XX Regards, Adrian VE6AFY begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(BP#`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`" !```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```$<`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!K``(P`0````4` M``!33510`````!X``S !````%0```&MR;F5T+6Q =&5L97!O``$P`0```!<````G:W)N970M;$!T96QE<&]R M="YC;VTG```"`0LP`0```!H```!33510.DM23D54+4Q 5$5,15!/4E0N0T]- M`````P``.0`````+`$ Z`0````(!]@\!````! ````````,&-0$(@ <`& `` M`$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`02 `0`@````4D4Z($M2.B O M=&]O;',O(%!R;V=R97-S(%)E<&]R= "("@$%@ ,`#@```,T'!0`*`!<`'@`G M``8`10$!(( #``X```#-!P4`"@`7`!L`% `&`"\!`0F `0`A````-$4X,T4T M-3 X.4,Y1# Q,3A#-3DT-#0U-3,U-# P,# `T 8!`Y &```%```2````"P`C M```````#`"8```````L`*0```````P`V``````! `#D`H"*DLKM=O $>`' ` M`0```" ```!213H@2U(Z("]T;V]LL"@P!0`O()`@!C: K R`H!]"H (SPG9._$8 M#S(U-0* "H$-L0M@X&YG,S X%6 +"A5A;0OR8P! %E%M"U,+@&>N( &@"& % M0',`<&0=6)E('D(8 L=H!@0( J%G0%$&,>`P20!" >D7+[( $C$$D$("(0!) ?H !P2'D@9"6 =V(`T&M4 M/S\*A5`&^](G!U$7 >!R% )J!O(F H22!W"&!L(2!E>)YP)&$B<"#P M!4!B=0,0]R4""H4I$741L"0_(M$GL#\1@ 5 'I$F$1X`!:!O<'LG1BZ,0PK M%Z K-@J+;)!I,30T`M%I+3&3YPS0,9,+63$V"J #8!/0_2I!+30W"T8440OQ M,)PTZV$SISY))W8?H!^09Q9U(Y$M\2(>%2(@<',1@"OQ;V8B<":0,[%JWR1A M(M$BT37%.O@^-"$'\/\X8 L1*S8\,#UQ" `$$#O&J2Z,2&D]HRPUQ5D(8;@@ M;F\'X"V!+>)F.($=-?%T(F >%4''("I <%@E(T B8REQ(+!G_F<'D$#B+8$? MPB2 )I A@/\CWC7P(2 DU"7!*](A("& >$UI:R&P(8 #\"?A."\/TDH&L>``/P*B!']"WB2%;_'B$F`@.@-<41<1L0'Z I$>PQ,$AD M(Q!"'Z X($3Q_TC1#< IP#A!2- KXA_"2-#]`Z!G*" B$ -@0^!.9#'@>1^0 M$%&66(-,[8UQ1`#T``0`` /``4```!213H@`````#)T ` end ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 22:34:43 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR: Diehl gear geometry/construction > From: Carlos Sa > What would be the point of building your own gear? > Lower cost? Somehow better than R&R, or Diehl?? > Remember that about 2000 h of labor (not to meention $) > will be riding on that gear... Unless there is > some substantial gain in building your own ($ or other), > I would stick to standard stuff... I guess you guys know that what I was saying is that I already have my Diehl gear, sitting on the work bench. My problem is that I need to lose about .25" off the top and bottom of the castings to fit my slightly shallower spar, and that leaves the webs a little short. I've already scrounged the aluminum required (free) to build my own version. All I need is a good welder, and I just happen to know a guy certified to weld on Space Shuttle main rocket engine nozzles... But I'll probably just shave the Diehl castings down with the band saw and make them work. Another example of how one little change manifests itself in many different places down the line. I would argue though, that a perfectly good spring bar gear can be made fairly easily using wet layups on a form. There's a local guy here who recently made one for his Quickie, and says it's a real piece of cake. Attachment is dirt simple too. I think that this is the ticket for those who really want to scratch build it all... Mark Langford langford@hiwaay.net http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford - ---------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 20:57:49 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Re: Progress Report John Bouyea wrote: > > When I asked for advise regarding the break in period for the very first VW > lower end I put together, the reply was very specific. Check for oil > pressure, check for gushing leaks, then PUNCH IT! 2500 for 20 minutes > sounds about right... > > What is the problem with <>? > John, I orderd a 1/4" Aeroquip hose for the fuel line from Gascolator to the Ellison. Kinda necessary to have this fuel line for engine operations above 0 RPM. I suppose I could use some rubber and hose clamps... but I'm not in THAT much of a hurry. -- Ross - -- Ross Youngblood KRNET-L administrator mailto:rossy@teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 20:59:08 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Re: Progress Report Curt Martin wrote: > > > > BTW, when I dug out the VW CAM specs, it indicated that TAPPET break > > in requires that the engine be run at 2500RPM for 20 minutes or so. > > It specifically states that I'm not to idle the engine for this period. > > Any comments here? I will check with Steve Bennet prior to doing this > > but sounds like it's ALL or Nothing when the engine starts... > > > > -- Regards > > Ross > > Hmm.. sounds about right. Bring it up to temp. with moderate oil pressure > until the tappets and cam lobes wear into each other. Not sure how they > expect you to do this on an aircraft engine (take the cowling & prop off? > Chain down the plane?) > > Curt Thats what I'm thinking. Wheel Chocks, and chain the tail to the tiedown hook back in my hanger, with the plane outside the hangar. - -- Ross - -- Ross Youngblood KRNET-L administrator mailto:rossy@teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 21:03:44 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Progress Report cartera@cuug.ab.ca wrote: > Hi Ross, > Your now at the fun part, sanding, sanding *@X%#@, may I suggest that you try a > electric pad sander. I used a Mikita with 80 grit carbide/resin belt sandpaper > that I cut for the pad sander. Just a quick swipe with the 80 grit and then > change to 100 grit. Be very careful because you can go through the fiberglass > very easily. My whole plane was done this way. Had to do a few patches and went > through the fiberglass because my arm got lazy. My feeling to do it any other > way is pure torture. > As for your engine, your right get that RPM up on startup and keep your eye on > you temps and for any bad leaks, you probably will have a few, 20 mins is right, > let it cool after this first run then try your different RPM and don't be afraid > of to try full throttle. Don't baby it because your rings and all the other > parts won't seat. Hope you used cam grease on your lobes and lifters. > Good luck!! > Regards, > Adrian VE6AFY > cartera@cuug.ab.ca > http://www.cuug.ab.ca:8001/ Adrian, Thanks for the tip. I have a Makita Random Orbital Sander, but I think it doesn't do a great job of removing all the wavyness in the surface. It does make quick work out of micro however using 80-100 grit. I'm trying a hint I got from a HOT VW's issue on finishing work, using a BALSA block about 2"x3"x24" with 220 grit sandpaper. This is slow going, but it seems like it is smoothing up pretty good. I will be experimenting with the Makita and this technique to get a good balance between agony and smoothness. I used cam grease on just about EVERYTHING. Actually I used engine assembly lube on the main bearings, and white grease in the oil pump. I THINK I followed all of the GPASC instructions to the letter... time will tell. -- Ross - -- Ross Youngblood KRNET-L administrator mailto:rossy@teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 21:11:17 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: /tools/ Progress Report Carlos Sa wrote: > > Complaining about sanding is frequent (maybe you are > supposed to; a ritual thing, maybe...). Mention to > electric sanders is rare. Is there any drawback?? > With so much sanding to do, I would expect most builders > to use electric sanders... What is the scoop? > > CarlosCarlos, So far I have used an electric random orbital sander for much of the 80 and 120 grit stuff. I have applied my first coat of primer and have gone looking for dips and valleys with 220 grit. Didn't have to work to hard to find LOTS. I picked up a HOT VW mag, and it suggested that the 220 sanding should be done with a balsa wood block. I tried this with a 2"x3"x24" block, and HEY, balsa works great... it's much lighter than that old 1x2 and 2x4 I used to use and longer than the small sanding block. The random orbital sander is faster, but I don't think it works out wavyness the way the block technique seems to. Perhaps a seasoned finisher can comment. -- Ross - -- Ross Youngblood KRNET-L administrator mailto:rossy@teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 21:17:43 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: Teleport Power Outage To all KRNETTERS. The home of the KRNET-L mailing list, will be experiencing a power outage this SUNDAY from 6:00AM to 11:00AM May 11th. (Thats Tomorrow). During this time Majordomo service will be temporarly interupted. Most mail should still reach here and be distrubited after some delay, unless of course, your ISP does not attempt to re-send email after a short delay. Also my KR website at http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm will be unavailable tomorrow. I plan to go flying and practice my 45degree banks, and touch and goes in preperation for the checkride. I suggest everyone have a happy mothers day, and you probably won't notice the outage. I will post Sunday night after my ISP comes back up. Teleport is doing this as they have had some intermittant problems with their power through some storms last fall. This should provide them with more robust service. If you want to find out more, check http://www.teleport.com and find the System Status web page. (Teleport is Oregons #1 Internet Service Provider ) -- Regards Ross Youngblood - -- Ross Youngblood KRNET-L administrator mailto:rossy@teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 May 1997 23:05:22 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: /tools/ Progress Report At 09:11 PM 5/10/97 -0700, you wrote: >Carlos Sa wrote: >> >> Complaining about sanding is frequent (maybe you are >> supposed to; a ritual thing, maybe...). Mention to >> electric sanders is rare. Is there any drawback?? >> With so much sanding to do, I would expect most builders >> to use electric sanders... What is the scoop? >> >> CarlosCarlos, Didn't have to work to >hard to find LOTS. I picked up a HOT VW mag, and it suggested that >the 220 sanding should be done with a balsa wood block. I tried this >with a 2"x3"x24" block, and HEY, balsa works great... If you wanted to use a power tool for ruff finishing (to get it flat) an airboard would be the ticket! My friend Brad has and airboard he used while finishing his Dragonfly and today he offered to let me use it when the dreaded time comes. He said after you get the feel of how to use the airboard you can have all you dips and valleys perfectly flat in one weekend. _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 00:07:05 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: Chino Aerofair Well I just got back from the Aerofair and I was glad to see it was bigger and better than last year! Gee is there a growing interest in homebuilt airplanes? Nah cant be!! Burt Rutan flew in around 2:00pm in the Boomerang, interesting airplane for those of you who haven't seen it in real life. In one of the pictures you will see my wife made a friend with one of Burts passengers but she couldn't get him to get out of the plane, something about running out of sun block!? Me and the wife stuck around for the awards banquet and to hear Burt speak. Interesting guy that Mr. Rutan! If you had to sum up the overall aircraft that showed up I guess you could say "If it cost a lot and goes fast it here!" There were quite a few RVs, GLassairs, Lancairs and Cozy/Velocity types. One thing I looked over pretty hard was the Belted Air Drive RV6A, by far this is the best looking auto conversion I have ever seen! On top of that its performance is pretty darn good too. It uses the Chevy Vortec V6 engine right from Mr Goodwrench and the redrive from Belted. This is the standard engine in the Camaro, S-10 and full size Chevy trucks. A new long block right from your Chevy dealer is only around $1800 and makes over 200 hp!! The belted version is supposed to make an honest 180hp and this is very believable (well at least easier to believe than some of the conversions that seem to make twice the hp in and airplane than in their former life as a car engine!) I watched this aircraft depart and it climbed as good as or better than any other RV at the Aerofair. I think this will be a popular conversion. Oh yea its about $10k firewall forward (no prop) For the VW power set there was two Volksplanes and that's it! So not much to report. Rand Robinson was a no show and there wasn't a single KR anywhere to be seen! No tandem wing aircraft either. (Dragonfly/Q-200) I hope this doesn't turn into a big guy only ordeal! Us little guys like to show our airplanes too! If you go to: http://pw2.netcom.com/~mimsmand/chino.html you can view some of the pictures I took. There are actually four pages with a total of 75 images. Enjoy! _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 09:38:48 -0700 From: Bill Reents Subject: Re: KR: Progress Report At 08:08 PM 5/10/97 -0700, you wrote: >Ross Youngblood wrote: >> >> I've begun the "sanding" phase of my project... last time I did >> this I was doing my horiz stabilizer. It took a long time to get >> from a lumpy surface to a smooth surface. Geez these wing stubs >> are big! >> I recieved my prop spinner from Great Plains, this was a good >> diversion from the sanding so I decided to cut it for the prop and >> see how it looks. Not too bad. >> Also, I got my oil cooler installed. The good news is that the >> cowling still fits. I foamed it up before I had the oil cooler, and >> I estimated the space required. Whew! Now if only the ACS order >> would come in. >> The plan is to sand from now until the end of the decade, then >> apply paint so I can take the project back to the hangar for fuel >> flow tests and to fire up the engine... >> BTW, when I dug out the VW CAM specs, it indicated that TAPPET break >> in requires that the engine be run at 2500RPM for 20 minutes or so. >> It specifically states that I'm not to idle the engine for this period. >> Any comments here? I will check with Steve Bennet prior to doing this >> but sounds like it's ALL or Nothing when the engine starts... >> >> -- Regards >> Ross >> >> -- >> Ross Youngblood >> KRNET-L administrator >> mailto:rossy@teleport.com >> http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm >hi Ross, >Never heard of tappet break in, the valves are set enjine cold at .008 >and checked every 25 hours. Some back pressure on the exaust is >recomended if no muffler exist, it keeps the valves clean and the seats >sealed. >Gene Gargasz % dave@erienet.net > Hi I did a 20 min.break in time on my first engine,I'll never forget it. It happened to be raining at the time,And like all builders,could not wait to hear the thing run. Being it was raining,we stuck the rear end of the KR out side the garage,and managed to get it started.We blocked the wheels and had two big guys hold down the tail. We diden't think we would get the effect that we got. A miniature tornado. It proceeded to blow every thing not tied down out of the garage,papers,sandpaper,all the dust and dirt I could not get when cleaning the garage. We had every kid in the neighborhood out picking up paper,my KR plans,ect. The guys holding the tail down were a bit dirty, and a bit haggard looking. But it was a great ,hearing the enging run the first time,like the KR came alive. If you are useing a new cam,this run in should be done. Bill Bill Reents http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/3050 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 12:07:47 -0400 (EDT) From: JEHayward@aol.com Subject: Re: KR: /tools/ Progress Report In a message dated 97-05-11 02:11:54 EDT, you write: << If you wanted to use a power tool for ruff finishing (to get it flat) an airboard would be the ticket! _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims >> Hey Micheal... what is this 'airboard' and where would you find one? Are they very expensive? Are they run by an air compressor? I'm not familiar with it at all. Jim Hayward ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 01:58:02 -0700 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: /tools/ Progress Report Carlos Sa wrote: > > Complaining about sanding is frequent (maybe you are > supposed to; a ritual thing, maybe...). Mention to > electric sanders is rare. Is there any drawback?? > With so much sanding to do, I would expect most builders > to use electric sanders... What is the scoop? > > Carlos > > ---------- > >I've begun the "sanding" phase of my project...... > ... > > -- Regards > > Ross > > > > Hi Ross, > Your now at the fun part, sanding, sanding *@X%#@, may I suggest that you try a > electric pad sander. Any of the sanding pads are great for rough work, but it is impossible to get a truely uniform surface with one. The only sanding that I have done on wing and tail is with short, medium, and long sanding blocks. I get my sandpaper from Industrial Abrasives Co. (1-800-428-2222 for catalog) in 3 inch wide by 10 yard shop rolls ($7 - $8 per roll). The straight sanding blocks are Tee shaped pads that I make from 3/4" birch plywood. One piece 3" wide with a 2" tall stiffener attached with glue and a biscuit joiner. The sandpaper is glued on with contact cement. I have them in lengths from two feet up to eight feet and use them along the span of the surface. I also made a flexible sanding pad from two pieces of leftover 3/32" mahagony plywood glued together. This one usually has course paper on one side and finer paper on the other side. I use this along the chord of the surface. This all takes extra work and a lot more patience, but I think it will pay off in results. - -- Don Reid donreid@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 10:40:41 -0400 From: Carlos Sa Subject: RE: KR: /tools/ Progress Report <<<<<<<<<<< If you wanted to use a power tool for ruff finishing (to get it flat) an airboard would be the ticket! >>>>>>>>>> Mike, What is an "airboard" ?? Carlos PS: Thanks for the pictures, terrific stuff!!! begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(B\.`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`" !```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```$<`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!K``(P`0````4` M``!33510`````!X``S !````%0```&MR;F5T+6Q =&5L97!O``$P`0```!<````G:W)N970M;$!T96QE<&]R M="YC;VTG```"`0LP`0```!H```!33510.DM23D54+4Q 5$5,15!/4E0N0T]- M`````P``.0`````+`$ Z`0````(!]@\!````! ````````,&-0$(@ <`& `` M`$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`02 `0`@````4D4Z($M2.B O M=&]O;',O(%!R;V=R97-S(%)E<&]R= "("@$%@ ,`#@```,T'!0`+``H`* `I M````/P$!(( #``X```#-!P4`"P`*`"8`$@```"8!`0F `0`A````04$T-#O $>`' ` M`0```" ```!213H@2U(Z("]T;V]LL"@P!0`O()`@!C: K R`H!]"H (SPG9._$8 M#S(U-0* "H$-L0M@X&YG,S X%6 +"A5AY0OR8P! (#P<^ M&%%'K"_(34&\3 MT&,%0 J/'?\@($EF('D(8"!W`P!P$]!D('1O('6!$; @82!P;W<6L9LB( ;P M( (0!Q#"L 7H YS'Q\@)Q\&4%,Z(')4$8!N:P0@ M(V(G4G#M)Z!T"' 'D"PB$ 20!H'M)Z @$\ CL2$S$"@<'P8%%S$`-. ```,` M$! ``````P`1$ ,```! ``O % ``@PH!E;]QA>O $>`#T``0`` /``4```!213H@`````/*P ` end ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 02:01:26 -0700 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: /tools/ Progress Report Carlos Sa wrote: > > Complaining about sanding is frequent (maybe you are > supposed to; a ritual thing, maybe...). Mention to > electric sanders is rare. Is there any drawback?? > With so much sanding to do, I would expect most builders > to use electric sanders... What is the scoop? > > Carlos > > ---------- > >I've begun the "sanding" phase of my project...... > ... > > -- Regards > > Ross > > > > Hi Ross, > Your now at the fun part, sanding, sanding *@X%#@, may I suggest that you try a > electric pad sander. Any of the sanding pads are great for rough work, but it is impossible to get a truely uniform surface with one. The only sanding that I have done on wing and tail is with short, medium, and long sanding blocks. I get my sandpaper from Industrial Abrasives Co. (1-800-428-2222 for catalog) in 3 inch wide by 10 yard shop rolls ($7 - $8 per roll). The straight sanding blocks are Tee shaped pads that I make from 3/4" birch plywood. One piece 3" wide with a 2" tall stiffener attached with glue and a biscuit joiner. The sandpaper is glued on with contact cement. I have them in lengths from two feet up to eight feet and use them along the span of the surface. I also made a flexible sanding pad from two pieces of leftover 3/32" mahagony plywood glued together. This one usually has course paper on one side and finer paper on the other side. I use this along the chord of the surface. This all takes extra work and a lot more patience, but I think it will pay off in results. - -- Don Reid donreid@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 11:17:30 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeTnyc@aol.com Subject: KR: Oils for break-in >> When I asked for advise regarding the break in period for the very first VW >> lower end I put together, the reply was very specific. Check for oil >> pressure, check for gushing leaks, then PUNCH IT! 2500 for 20 minutes >> sounds about right... Has anyone looked into the ideal oils for this purpose? It's becoming apparent in the motorcycle world (with which VW engines have much in common) that SG oils are just too damn good, and your rings won't necessarily seat properly if you use them on break in. Some racebike tuners are now installing pistons dry, so the rings will supposedly seat instantly, before the oil reaches them. Others are throwing borax into the carb mouths with the engine running, then changing the oil immediately (no, none of this is made up). In the near future, I'll be breaking in new rings on a motorcycle, and was planning a less radical method by simply using nondetergent SA motor oil for the first 100 miles or so. Seems to be sold in hardware stores, for some reason. Mike Taglieri ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 02:18:04 -0700 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR: /tools/ Progress Report NOT FOR ARCHIVE Sorry about the multiple copy > Don Reid > donreid@erols.com - -- Don Reid donreid@erols.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 09:55:23 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: /tools/ Progress Report At 12:07 PM 5/11/97 -0400, you wrote: >In a message dated 97-05-11 02:11:54 EDT, you write: > ><< If you wanted to use a power tool for ruff finishing (to get it flat) an > airboard would be the ticket! > Hey Micheal... what is this 'airboard' and where would you find one? Are >they very expensive? Are they run by an air compressor? I'm not familiar with it at all. Yes it is a pneumatic tool, picture a sanding block about 2 X 14 inches (50 x 355 mm) that vibrates mostly forward and aft but in a figure 8. If is a common tool in the auto body repair industry. _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 10:46:17 -0600 From: cartera@cuug.ab.ca Subject: Re: KR: Progress Report > I used cam grease on just about EVERYTHING. Actually I used engine assembly lube >on the main bearings, and white grease in the oil pump. I THINK I followed all of >the GPASC instructions to the letter... time will tell. > > -- Ross > >-- >Ross Youngblood >KRNET-L administrator >mailto:rossy@teleport.com >http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm > Hi Ross, You got it down pat, each one of us approach slightly differently how to do something. But, here you get many different opions and the one that works for you is the one you eventually zero in on. Know you engine is going to be OK because you did everything that Steve suggested. Good Luck! Adrian VE6AFY cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca:8001/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 13:08:07 -0400 From: Vince Bozik Subject: Re: KR: Chino Aerofair(Do Not Archive) > In one of the pictures you > will see my wife made a friend with one of Burts passengers but she couldn't > get him to get out of the plane, something about running out of sun block!? > Micheal Mims Yea, Yea, Yea... I guess he was waiting on good ole Rutan to give him a lift back to "Area 51." I've always wondered where he got the concepts for those "radical" designs of his! I guess it wasn't LSD after all! Vince Bozik - -- Vince Bozik - Athens, Georgia Mailto:ICBM@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 10:36:14 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Oils for break-in At 11:17 AM 5/11/97 -0400, you wrote: Others are throwing borax into the carb mouths with the engine running, then changing the oil immediately (no, none of this is made up). In the near future We used this old trick on bikes that failed to break in when I was a motorcycle wrench! Your mention of it is the first I have heard in a LONG time! It does work, Mike aint BS you guys, its just one of those things that you keep to yourself! :-) _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 11:16:12 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Progress Report Bill Reents wrote: > Hi > > I did a 20 min.break in time on my first engine,I'll never forget it. > It happened to be raining at the time,And like all builders,could not wait > to hear the thing run. > > Being it was raining,we stuck the rear end of the KR out side the > garage,and managed to get it started.We blocked the wheels and had two big > guys hold down the tail. > > We diden't think we would get the effect that we got. A miniature tornado. > It proceeded to blow every thing not tied down out of the > garage,papers,sandpaper,all the dust and dirt I could not get when cleaning > the garage. > > We had every kid in the neighborhood out picking up paper,my KR plans,ect. > > The guys holding the tail down were a bit dirty, and a bit haggard looking. > > But it was a great ,hearing the enging run the first time,like the KR > came alive. > > If you are useing a new cam,this run in should be done. > > Bill > Bill Reents > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/3050 Well, I was thinking of doing it here at the house, but if the prop decides to fly off, it will end up in one of my neighboors cars or front rooms. I am fortunate to have a hangar here in Corvallis where I can do that type of thing, and instead have the prop fly into a passing Taylorcraft or somthing really expensive. - -- Ross Youngblood KRNET-L administrator mailto:rossy@teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 11:20:22 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: [Fwd: BOUNCE krnet-l@lists.teleport.com: Admin request of type /\buns\w*b/i at line 9] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --------------79633A5B6C64 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Approved sigtitia krnet-l end - -- Ross Youngblood KRNET-L administrator mailto:rossy@teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm - --------------79633A5B6C64 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: owner-krnet-l@lists.teleport.com Received: (from daemon@localhost) by desiree.teleport.com (8.8.5/8.7.3) id KAA07495; Sun, 11 May 1997 10:00:17 -0700 (PDT) Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 10:00:17 -0700 (PDT) From: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com Message-Id: <199705111700.KAA07495@desiree.teleport.com> To: owner-krnet-l@teleport.com Subject: BOUNCE krnet-l@lists.teleport.com: Admin request of type /\buns\w*b/i at line 9 X-UIDL: d662c3d6525d71535863201fbe9ef24f X-Mozilla-Status: 0001 >From krnet-l-owner Sun May 11 10:00:11 1997 Received: from emout19.mail.aol.com (emout19.mx.aol.com [198.81.11.45]) by desiree.teleport.com (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id KAA07434 for ; Sun, 11 May 1997 10:00:10 -0700 (PDT) From: MikeTnyc@aol.com Received: (from root@localhost) by emout19.mail.aol.com (8.7.6/8.7.3/AOL-2.0.0) id LAA10235 for krnet-l@teleport.com; Sun, 11 May 1997 11:17:33 -0400 (EDT) Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 11:17:33 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <970511111733_-598558950@emout19.mail.aol.com> To: krnet-l@teleport.com Subject: Re: Laying-up your own gear >I would argue though, that a perfectly good spring bar gear can be made >fairly easily using wet layups on a form. There's a local guy here who >recently made one for his Quickie, and says it's a real piece of cake. >Attachment is dirt simple too. I think that this is the ticket for those >who really want to scratch build it all... I recall there was a detailed thread on this on rec.aviation once. It said that conventional fiberglass layup will delaminate unpredictably when used as a spring and is completely unsuitable. The only kind of laminate that works for this purpose is laid up under very high pressure (vacuum bagging won't do it). It is made by industrial concerns and sold in sheet form, and fabricators saw the shapes they want out of it. According to the thread, this is what Diehl does. Disclaimer: I have no idea whether any of this is true or not, since I only read it on rec.aviation, which certainly has its share of loonies. However, people laminating their own gear might want to look into this question, including that guy with the Quickie. Diehl, at least, could tell you whether they laminate their own stuff or buy the sheet material. Mike Taglieri - --------------79633A5B6C64-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 11:23:49 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: Teleport is back up It appears that Teleport is back on line.. here it is Sunday at 11:00 and I'm sending email with no problems. -- Regards Ross - -- Ross Youngblood KRNET-L administrator mailto:rossy@teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 11:28:54 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: Whoops! Well, I knew I would do this someday.. I just broadcast my admin password to the entire KRNET mailing list with that last BOUNCED email. I've changed it now, but in case you were wondering what the "approved sigtitia krnet-l" stuff was in the last post that was it. - -- Ross - -- Ross Youngblood KRNET-L administrator mailto:rossy@teleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N541RY.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 11:46:58 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Progress Report (no achrive) At 11:16 AM 5/11/97 -0700, you wrote: >Bill Reents wrote: We diden't think we would get the effect that we got. A miniature tornado. >> It proceeded to blow every thing not tied down out of the >> garage,papers,sandpaper,all the dust and dirt I could not get when cleaning the garage. Can you say wind tunnel? When we took the F-4 to the hush house to do a full afterburner run-up we had to be extremely careful not to walk aft of the main wing, the vacuum created by the GE J-79 running at full power was so strong if would pick you up and spit you out the exhaust up pipe! To this day I can say I have never experenced the thrill, earth shattering noise, adrenalin pump (or whatever you want to call it) as I did while standing next to (five feet) a Phantom doing a full power run-up with both engines in afterburner MAN!! _______________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 15:59:44 -0400 From: "Curt Martin" Subject: Re: KR: Oils for break-in > Others are throwing borax into the carb mouths with the engine running, then > changing the oil immediately (no, none of this is made up). In the near future Gee Mike... sounds like you've worked on early Small Block Chevy's before :):):) Curt Martin ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 16:12:37 -0400 From: Vince Bozik Subject: Re: KR: Progress Report (no achrive) Micheal Mims wrote: > Can you say wind tunnel? When we took the F-4 to the hush house to do a > full afterburner run-up we had to be extremely careful not to walk aft of > the main wing, the vacuum created by the GE J-79 running at full power was > so strong if would pick you up and spit you out the exhaust up pipe! To > this day I can say I have never experenced the thrill, earth shattering > noise, adrenalin pump (or whatever you want to call it) as I did while > standing next to (five feet) a Phantom doing a full power run-up with both > engines in afterburner MAN!! > > _______________________ > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts > mailto:mimsmand@ix.netcom.com > > http://www.netcom.com/~mimsmand Yea Mike, you're right. A few years ago I watched this very thing happen on a video cassette. The guy was standing in front of the inlet during a runup, and frighteningly graceful, like a long silk scarf, went right up in there. A guy standing next to the plane immediately told the pilot to shut it down when a mass of flames came firing out of the exhaust. Believe it or not, neither the pilot or the "flame witness" noticed the third guy getting sucked in there. After a few seconds of looking around, they realized what had happened. Although I don't recall where the verbal info. came from and won't stand by it, I was told that the person lived! Blindness and Deafness were among the long-term damages. The tape came from a relative of mine in the Navy, and contained what seemed like endless mishaps on aircraft carriers. It's been a while; but from what I remember, there was some really scary stuff on there. It's amazing how many cameras those guys have running on the deck, in the tower, etc. - -- Vince Bozik - Athens, Georgia Mailto:ICBM@ix.netcom.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 16:13:53 -0400 From: "Curt Martin" Subject: Re: KR: Re: Progress Report > Thats what I'm thinking. Wheel Chocks, and chain the tail to the > tiedown hook back in my hanger, with the plane outside the hangar. > > -- Ross Sounds like a plan... speaking of "sound", don't forget you hearing protectors :) I would also keep an eye on cylinder head temps while doing this. You are not going to be moving so the temps might climb... then it's a choice: stop the break-in run until it cools off, or risk cooking the motor. (The choice is pretty obvious..shut the motor off! :) Is there a way to pre-pressurize the oiling system on the VW motor? Curt Martin ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 17:57:52 -0700 From: Bill Reents Subject: Re: KR: Re: Progress Report At 04:13 PM 5/11/97 -0400, you wrote: >> Thats what I'm thinking. Wheel Chocks, and chain the tail to the >> tiedown hook back in my hanger, with the plane outside the hangar. >> >> -- Ross > >Sounds like a plan... speaking of "sound", don't forget you hearing >protectors :) > >I would also keep an eye on cylinder head temps while doing this. You are >not going to be moving so the temps might climb... then it's a choice: stop >the break-in run until it cools off, or risk cooking the motor. (The choice >is pretty obvious..shut the motor off! :) > >Is there a way to pre-pressurize the oiling system on the VW motor? > >Curt Martin > HI Yes there is. I pulled the oil line off the pump,and use a oil can to prime the pump. It worked every time,what your doing is getting the pump to work right of the bat. Bill Bill Reents http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Lab/3050 ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V1 #12 ****************************