From: Majordomo@teleport.com[SMTP:Majordomo@teleport.com] Sent: Thursday, December 11, 1997 4:18 PM To: john bouyea Subject: Majordomo file: list 'krnet-l' file 'v01.n157' -- From: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com (krnet-l-digest) To: krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V1 #157 Reply-To: krnet-l-digest Sender: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Errors-To: owner-krnet-l-digest@lists.teleport.com Precedence: bulk krnet-l-digest Monday, November 3 1997 Volume 01 : Number 157 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 11:18:11 -0800 From: Tom Crawford Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals Micheal Mims wrote: > > At 09:45 AM 11/1/97 -0800, Micheal Mims wrote: > The possibilities of the off airport forced landing will be minimized as I > don't plan to run a VW or Soob. > > Oh yea I wanted to add that I don't mean to give VW and Soob guys a hard > time but statistics show that 99.9% of KR, engine related off airport > landings were powered by a VW. Maybe that's because 99.9% of all KRs are > powered by VWs?!? > > Regardless I feel better in my mind using a Continental or a Lyc! I told > myself from the beginning that was what I wanted to do but strayed away from > that original thought and considered the Soob and VW. I am open minded > about various powerplants but at this time a certified engine is the way to > go, at least for me! > > If you guys (krnet old timers) remember I said I would use a Lyc or a > Continental if one came along at the right time and at the right price, well > one did! You may also remember the stories I had mentioned about all the > darn tinkering that the VWs (the ones I am familiar with) required to stay > alive! Well I don't want to tinker I want to fly! > > If you planed to use a VW or a Soob please do so! I guess what I am trying > to say is there is nothing wrong with using one it just aint what I want! > Yea I know "aint" aint a word! :o) > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims Your post about "tinkering" with the VW brings up a question. While doing the "annual" after my first flight, I noted that the head nuts on one side were noticeably looser than they should be. How often is one suppose to check the torque on a VW? On My engine, to check them all, you have to remove the rocker arm assembly. Just wondering, Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, FL N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 11:28:46 -0800 From: Tom Crawford Subject: Re: KR: Tom Bagnatto's KR-1 brian whatcott wrote: > > At 16:45 11/1/97 -0500, you wrote: > >Yup, it's an Ellison. They are less prone to picking up ice than a regular > >carb, but not immune to it. Avoiding it takes common sense and good > >judgement. > > > >By the way Brian, what did the FAA say when they inspected your KR? > > > >Tom > > > > > Avoiding temps of 60degF and 50%RH is not so easy in my estimation. > > But as to the feds - if only they had a chance to comment on a plane > of mine - I have been featherless for too long now... > > Regards > brian whatcott > Altus OK I agree with what Tom B. said about the Ellison TBI being less prone to icing than a float carb, but Ben Ellison says you MUST make provision for carb heat when installing the TBI. Product Liability? Tom Crawford tomc@afn.org Gainesville, FL N262TC ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 16:41:10 -0800 From: MARVIN MCCOY Subject: KR: Safety wire twisters - ----------------------- I just picked up a really nice set of spring loaded safety wire twisters at the Boeing surplus store for $10. Aircraft Spruce has them listed for $56. Any of you guys in the Seattle area should check it out. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field Mr.Marvin@worldnet.att.net - ------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 10:49:25 -0600 From: brian whatcott Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals At 11:18 11/2/97 -0800, you wrote: > While >doing the "annual" after my first flight, I noted that the head nuts on >one side were noticeably looser than they should be. How often is one >suppose to check the torque on a VW? On My engine, to check them all, >you have to remove the rocker arm assembly. > >Just wondering, > >Tom Crawford There are thick studs and thin studs and case savers or not ( but not many without these days, I imagine) and variable head washers. It would be interesting to know what type of engine this is. I recall some folks allow for one retorque a few hours after a rebuild. The Idiot's Guide stresses careful progressive retorquing. I found a torque wrench a great comfort. (Meanwhile mine just sits and waits :-) Regards brian whatcott Altus OK ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 17:28:25 -0500 (EST) From: BSHADR@aol.com Subject: KR: Fishline Micro finishing technique KRNetheads: I stumbled across this posting and thought it might be of interest for the guys in the Micro stage of wing finishing. Randy Stein BSHADR@aol.com Soviet Monica, CA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <> ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 14:58:34 -0800 From: enewbold@sprynet.com Subject: Re: KR: Is the server dead or what? What's going on with KR Net? All of a sudden the messages have all stopped coming in. Ed Newbold Columbus, OH ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 15:04:26 -0800 From: enewbold@sprynet.com Subject: Re: KR: Fishline Micro finishing technique >Regarding doing some of the finishing, the EUROPIA guys have a neat >trick. They take a piece or monofilament fishing line a couple of >feet long ... Y'know Randy, this sounds like a pretty good technique! Thanks. I'm going to try it out tuesday night and see what happens. BTW, anybody know the best way to deal with those damn hairline cracks that appear in your bird after a few years? I'd like to know how to repair them without haveing to do a WHOLE new paint job. Cheers. Ed Newbold Columbus, OH ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 16:17:29 -0700 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR: Warnke Propellers On Sat, 01 Nov 1997 17:37:50 +0000 Steve Bennett writes: >interresting post. A re-drive sub that does about 100 hp only turn 7 >in more pitch than an 70 hp 2180cc vw HUMMMMMMMMMM. steve > I'd guess that would mean that the Soob isn't putting out 100 hp. My old C-85 is perfectly happy turning a 60x66 prop from Performance Props. A 100 hp soob with a redrive should require more prop then my C-85. - ------- Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://fly.hiwaay.net~langford/kjefs.html & http: //www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 16:28:51 -0700 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR: Tom Bagnatto's KR-1 On Sat, 01 Nov 1997 15:30:45 -0800 Micheal Mims writes: >At 04:36 PM 11/1/97 -0600, you wrote: >>>Yup, it's an Ellison. They are less prone to picking up ice than a >regular carb, but not immune to it. Avoiding it takes common sense >and good judgement. >>> > >>Avoiding temps of 60degF and 50%RH is not so easy in my estimation. >> >>But as to the feds - if only they had a chance to comment on a plane >>of mine - I have been featherless for too long now... >> >The two Ellison install that I am familiar with have carb heat installed >(because the feds said to do it) but it is never used nor has there been any >hint of carb ice. Ellisons are cool but cost major $$$$ The one for my >O-290 is around $1200! Gack! >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Micheal Mims The requirement for carb heat varies from inspector to inspector. The requirement for safety is up to the builder/pilot. - ------- Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://fly.hiwaay.net~langford/kjefs.html & http: //www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 23:41:04 GMT From: bbland@busprod.com (Brian Bland) Subject: KR: Test. (do not read) Just a test! ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 19:34:53 -0500 (EST) From: Mick433000@aol.com Subject: KR:T/O and Landing Distance I am considering building a KR 2S and would be grateful for an answer to the following:- Are the T/O and landing figures quoted by Rand-Rodinson accurate? Could I take off and land in a grass field 500yards long, with a hedge at both ends, two up with fuel, in safety. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 20:04:23 +0000 From: Steve Bennett Subject: Re: KR: Warnke Propellers it does within 3 to 4 degrees of each other. s bennett ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 20:05:34 +0000 From: Steve Bennett Subject: Re: KR: Warnke Propellers weight does matter. steve b. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 19:40:29 -0600 From: Robert Lasecki Subject: KR: reference books When I started my KR-2s I purchased both Bingelis books recommended by Jeanette Rand - Sportplane Construction Techniques and Firewall Forward. I have had quite a bit of difficulty in seeing why anyone was axcited about the construction book. Earlier today I visited the EAA bookstore in Oshkosh and found a copy of his book The Sportplane Builder. WOW! The construction basics and techniques are a fantastic reference for anyone undertaking a construction project. I think RR has been pushing the wrong book! I wish I had found this one sooner as it is far more comprehensive and covers a lot more than the other text. If anyone doesn't have a copy, it is WELL worth the investment. Bob Lasecki Chicago at 550 hours and still getting educated. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 17:50:24 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: progress As some of you may know I was able to get the beast flipped over yesterday. Today I spent about 4 hours sanding down all the foam. It looks really cool! (Troy,.. those stab tips came out killer dude!) I should be able to start applying glass to the stubs, horizontal stab and the forward section of the belly tomorrow! Woo Hoo! I plan to have all the glass work and filling done of the underside before I move to the airport on the 15th. Hopefully I can paint a coat or two of primer on the belly before then! Then it will be to the airport and fill and sand the rest of the fuselage. The fuselage should be filled, sanded and primed by Christmas. Wings in Jan, ailerons and wheels and brakes in Feb. Ta Da..I have a KR airframe! Instrument and electrical installation in Mar. and Apr. Engine in May , June and July! Perry is still a possibility! If not Perry, COPPERSTATE98!! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 20:13:52 -0600 (CST) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: Re: KR: Fishline Micro finishing technique Be sure to add a little Cabosil to your micro mixture. It makes it more spreadable and is one of the secrets to the fish line technique. Check out the Europa archives for the full description of the technique. Steve Eberhart On Sun, 2 Nov 1997 enewbold@sprynet.com wrote: > >Regarding doing some of the finishing, the EUROPIA guys have a neat > >trick. They take a piece or monofilament fishing line a couple of > >feet long ... > > Y'know Randy, this sounds like a pretty good technique! Thanks. I'm going to try > it out tuesday night and see what happens. > > BTW, anybody know the best way to deal with those damn hairline cracks that > appear in your bird after a few years? I'd like to know how to repair them > without haveing to do a WHOLE new paint job. > > Cheers. > Ed Newbold > Columbus, OH > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 21:29:21 EST From: BSHADR Subject: KR: Paint & finishing In a message dated 97-11-02 18:07:30 EST, Ed wrote: << BTW, anybody know the best way to deal with those damn hairline cracks that appear in your bird after a few years? I'd like to know how to repair them without haveing to do a WHOLE new paint job. >> Heck, I'll bite on this one. According to one of the paint reps at an EAA Chapter meeting, this seems to be more of a problem with some of the type/brand of paints used. Something to do with shrinkage of the top surface. Now you ask, which paint(s) should you use? Sorry, I forgot that part. He did say to stick with the same brand for the total prep-paint process. I can call him and try to find out if we can't get any of our resident aeroplane painters to fess up. Randy Stein BSHADR@aol.com Sovient Monica, CA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 18:36:02 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Paint & finishing At 09:29 PM 11/2/97 EST, you wrote: He did say to stick with the same brand for the total prep-paint process. I can call him and try to find out if we can't get any of our resident aeroplane painters to fess up. > >Randy Stein >BSHADR@aol.com >Sovient Monica, CA > > Brad used Sherman Williams paint from start to finish. His paint job is 3 years old for the most part and no cracks. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 19:20:52 -0800 From: tomstokes1@juno.com (Wayland T. Stokes) Subject: Re: KR: reference books Was readingan old Homebuilder Magazine and came across a letter to the editor about a series in 1981 on building a KR2. Supposedly split in 4 issues Feb, Apr, Jun, Aug 1981. Any old time builders that know if the articles were any good and what happened to the Hombuilder Magazine. Tom Stokes in Reno NV (still in boat stage and holding). On Sun, 02 Nov 1997 19:40:29 -0600 Robert Lasecki writes: >When I started my KR-2s I purchased both Bingelis books recommended by >Jeanette Rand - Sportplane Construction Techniques and Firewall >Forward. >I have had quite a bit of difficulty in seeing why anyone was axcited >about the construction book. Earlier today I visited the EAA >bookstore >in Oshkosh and found a copy of his book The Sportplane Builder. WOW! >The construction basics and techniques are a fantastic reference for >anyone undertaking a construction project. I think RR has been >pushing >the wrong book! I wish I had found this one sooner as it is far more >comprehensive and covers a lot more than the other text. If anyone >doesn't have a copy, it is WELL worth the investment. > >Bob Lasecki >Chicago at 550 hours and still getting educated. > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 19:34:15 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: Veags Area members Hey Vegas area krnet users, I will be in the Vegas area for Comdex (well at least my wife is there for Comdex, I have had one to many already!) and was wondering if anyone wanted a visitor on the 17th or 18th? I don't know what hotel we are in yet but will let yall know! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 22:36:33 -0600 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: N262TC Flies! Tom, Congratulations!!!!! It's the greatest feeling. PS... I don't remember my instrument readings either. Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 22:36:35 -0600 From: Bobby Muse Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals At 10:04 PM 10/30/97 -0800, you wrote: >At 08:59 PM 10/30/97 -0700, Jeffrey E Scott wrote: >>Glass it together. If you ever ding the plane and have to move it by >>highway, you can always cut through the glass then. Mine would have been >>glassed together if I could have finished it at the airport. BTW, Roy >>Marsh glassed his together. I doubt that Ron has cut the wings off. >> > >So did Troy Petteway. I just don't see any reason to ever bring this thing >home after its at the airport! > >Mike "glassing outer wing gaps" Mims >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >FYI After Troy's recent engine out landing, he had to cut his wings off to trailer it home. Bobby Muse(N122B) bmuse@mindspring.com Wimberly, TX ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 21:58:32 -0700 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR:T/O and Landing Distance On Sun, 2 Nov 1997 19:34:53 -0500 (EST) Mick433000@aol.com writes: >I am considering building a KR 2S and would be grateful for an answer to the >following:- >Are the T/O and landing figures quoted by Rand-Rodinson accurate? Could I >take off and land in a grass field 500yards long, with a hedge at both ends, >two up with fuel, in safety. > I don't know what RR quotes for T/O and landing distances. With my C-85 powered -2S at 1200# it takes me up to 2200 feet to get off the runway, but my home runway is at 7200 feet ASL. With the weight down around 1025#, I can get off somewhere around 1500 feet. With just a little practice, I don't think I would have a problem at all with routinely flying off from a 1500 foot turf strip at low altitudes where the TAS is a bit lower and the engine develops more horsepower. The only time I've had my KR down to low altitude was at Perry this September and I was pleasantly surprised at how much of a boost I got in takeoff and climb performance. I based many of my other planes at a 1700 foot grass strip in the midwest and I don't think it would be a problem to fly this plane in and out of the same strip. I guess the answer to the latter part of your question is to do your best to keep it light. If you have two up and fuel and weigh in at 1000 lbs, depending on your powerplant, 1500 ft should be no big deal. On the other hand, if you're grossing 1400 lbs flying behind a Soob rated for 100 hp but only making 60, then you might have a problem. - ------- Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://fly.hiwaay.net~langford/kjefs.html & http: //www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Nov 1997 22:08:07 -0700 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com (Jeffrey E Scott) Subject: Re: KR: N262TC Flies! On Sun, 02 Nov 1997 22:36:33 -0600 Bobby Muse writes: >Tom, Congratulations!!!!! It's the greatest feeling. > >PS... I don't remember my instrument readings either. > > > Bobby Muse(N122B) Me either. I had a checklist and kneeboard to record some data otherwise I wouldn't have had any data from the first flight other then to note that the instruments were in the green. I was too wired to actually remember anything. :o) Congrats again Tom. - ------- Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM jscott.pilot@juno.com See N1213W construction and first flight at http://fly.hiwaay.net~langford/kjefs.html & http: //www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 23:30:06 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: neat site http://www.flyfast-lopresti.com/ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 23:48:44 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: more neat stuff! http://www.flyfast-lopresti.com/syncro-prop.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 04:06:23 -0800 From: enewbold@sprynet.com Subject: Re: KR: Paint & finishing << BTW, anybody know the best way to deal with those damn hairline cracks that appear in your bird after a few years? I'd like to know how to repair them without haveing to do a WHOLE new paint job. >> >Heck, I'll bite on this one. According to one of the paint reps at an EAA >Chapter meeting, this seems to be more of a problem with some of the >type/brand of paints used. Something to do with shrinkage of the top surface. >Now you ask, which paint(s) should you use? Sorry, I forgot that part. He >did say to stick with the same brand for the total prep-paint process. Thanks. The original paint job was done with DuPont's Imron polyurethane enamel. I was hoping someone could recommend a compatible touch up paint for it. Ed Newbold Columbus, OH ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 04:34:16 -0800 From: enewbold@sprynet.com Subject: Re: KR: A "how to" question about wing gap seals. Done. >>>Glass it together. If you ever ding the plane and have to move it by >>>highway, you can always cut through the glass then. Mine would have been >>>glassed together if I could have finished it at the airport. BTW, Roy >>>Marsh glassed his together. I doubt that Ron has cut the wings off. >>>Jeff Scott. >>So did Troy Petteway. I just don't see any reason to ever bring this thing >>home after its at the airport! >>Mike "glassing outer wing gaps" Mims >FYI: After Troy's recent engine out landing, he had to cut his wings off >to trailer it home. >Bobby Muse(N122B) Well guys, I've solved the problem (at least for me). I found "foam-backed double-sided pickup truck camper shell sealing tape" 1.5" wide. This is used to prevent chafing of the 4" aluminum strips which I bought in a 6" wide roll from the hardware store and cut to 4" wide. I applied the tape strips 1/2" from the gap, then cut out the tape over the screw holes where the original 4x6 aluminum plates covered the wing mounting bolts. Then I measured, cut and installed the aluminum strips over the tape. Since there is a mild taper, I had to snip a 2" cut at the leading edge and trim it to fit, but I bought this neat little aluminum brazing outfit at Oshkosh last year which worked great in finishing off that little slit. ,-----wing gap / - -------Outboard Wing L.E.----------.-------Wing stub-- |{ } ' { }| |{ } ' { }| |{ } ' { }----1.5" tape |{ } ' { }| |{[* ' *]}| |{[ ' ]}| |{[* ' *]-----existing screw holes |{ } ' { }| |{ } ' { }| | ' { }| | { }| | | | |----4" aluminum strip | | ...etc Does any of this make any sense??? Done deal. Thanks for all the comments leading to the solution. I'll make some photos and post them in a while. Cheers, Ed Newbold Columbus, OH ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 04:39:24 -0800 From: enewbold@sprynet.com Subject: Re: KR: Fishline Micro finishing technique >>Regarding doing some of the finishing, the EUROPIA guys have a neat >>trick. They take a piece or monofilament fishing line a couple of >>feet long... Randy stein >Be sure to add a little Cabosil to your micro mixture. It makes it more >spreadable and is one of the secrets to the fish line technique. Check >out the Europa archives for the full description of the technique. >Steve Eberhart Steve, What the heck is "Cabosil?" And, do you know what the Europa URL is? Thanks a million. Ed Newbold Columbus, OH ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 07:03:01 -0600 From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Subject: KR: Matching Imron; paint sags >Thanks. The original paint job was done with DuPont's Imron polyurethane enamel. >I was hoping someone could recommend a compatible touch up paint for it. > >Ed Newbold >Columbus, OH The only thing I've heard is that Imron is difficult to match when doing a repair. I've seen it done successfully on a P-51 with leading edge rain damage - the guy had lots of experience tho. Don't know how he did it - lots of help to you, right? I could try to contact him if you're interested. Was talking with a guy yesterday about painting and learned something I didn't know. He said that if you see a place where the paint is beginning to sag, take a short piece of masking tape and lightly touch the sag, pull it off and then shoot the area again. Beats letting it dry, then sand and reshoot. He says, afterwards you can't tell where you did it. I guess , the trick is to see the sag developing in the first place. Anyone else heard of doing this? Ed Janssen > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 07:25:30 -0600 (CST) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: Re: KR: Fishline Micro finishing technique On Mon, 3 Nov 1997 enewbold@sprynet.com wrote: > >>Regarding doing some of the finishing, the EUROPIA guys have a neat > >>trick. They take a piece or monofilament fishing line a couple of > >>feet long... Randy stein > > >Be sure to add a little Cabosil to your micro mixture. It makes it more > >spreadable and is one of the secrets to the fish line technique. Check > >out the Europa archives for the full description of the technique. > >Steve Eberhart > > Steve, > What the heck is "Cabosil?" And, do you know what the Europa URL is? > Thanks a million. > It is fumed silica, I think. It makes a dry micro mixture spread more like butter than peanut butter. It is available from Wicks and AS&S. You can get to the Europa archives through the Europa Club home page: http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa also, be sure to check out Tony K. Europa web page. It is a model for how to maintain a web digest of your building project. Get to it at: http://www.koan.co.nz/europa Steve > Ed Newbold > Columbus, OH > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 07:33:29 -0600 (CST) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: Re: KR: Matching Imron; paint sags On Mon, 3 Nov 1997, Ed Janssen wrote: > > >Thanks. The original paint job was done with DuPont's Imron polyurethane > enamel. > >I was hoping someone could recommend a compatible touch up paint for it. > > > >Ed Newbold > >Columbus, OH > > The only thing I've heard is that Imron is difficult to match when doing a > repair. I've seen it done successfully on a P-51 with leading edge rain > damage - the guy had lots of experience tho. Don't know how he did it - > lots of help to you, right? I could try to contact him if you're interested. > > Was talking with a guy yesterday about painting and learned something I > didn't know. He said that if you see a place where the paint is beginning > to sag, take a short piece of masking tape and lightly touch the sag, pull > it off and then shoot the area again. Beats letting it dry, then sand and > reshoot. He says, afterwards you can't tell where you did it. I guess , > the trick is to see the sag developing in the first place. Anyone else > heard of doing this? > > Ed Janssen > > > > Way back in my high school days I used to work part time at a body shop. Tear off a strip of masking tape, lay it on the sag/run and lift off bu pulling one end back over the tape in a rilling motion. Shoot light cote over the area and you will have a heavy painted area that looks sorta OK. After my first fender with a sag the complete length I asked if I should use the tape on it. Nothing was said, I was just handed a can of enamel reducer and a bunch of rags. He was right, I didn't screw it up the second time! Steve ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 06:13:32 PST From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: Cutting KR in half You wrote- >Man I should not type until after my first cup of coffee! What I >meant to saw was I could saw it in half and mount the forward half to >the wall over the fireplace as though the plane was coming out of the >wall! And I think I would use a hacksaw blade and not a hacksw >blade! >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >Micheal Mims Hey, Micheal- What are you gonna do with the half that the RVs get to see? Can we take it over to the ramp at Chino and make a bonfire? Oscar ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 06:45:32 PST From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: Soob cuts >On the other hand, if you're grossing 1400 lbs flying behind a Soob >rated for 100 hp but only making 60, then you might have a problem. > >------- >Jeff Scott - Los Alamos, NM >jscott.pilot@juno.com > Jeff; I'm taking this very personally. I see that you, like Mike Mims, also prefer to fly behind "certified". Me, I still think that "experimental" means just that, and maybe I can make that Soob pull my (future) KR along just fast enough to show you how the tail feathers finished out! Oscar ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 06:52:11 -0800 From: MARVIN MCCOY Subject: Re: KR: Fishline Micro finishing technique > >Be sure to add a little Cabosil to your micro mixture. It makes it more > >spreadable and is one of the secrets to the fish line technique. Check > >out the Europa archives for the full description of the technique. > >Steve Eberhart > > Steve, > What the heck is "Cabosil?" And, do you know what the Europa URL is? > Thanks a million. > > Ed Newbold > Columbus, OH----------------------- Cabosil is a brand name for a silica or glass powder. If added to epoxy it will make it spread very nice, BUT be careful, if you must sand it later it is impossible to sand. It becomes harder then steel. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field Mr.Marvin@worldnet.att.net - --------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 08:58:08 -0600 From: Mark Pierce Subject: Re: KR: Matching Imron; paint sags Ed Janssen wrote: > ....to sag, take a short piece of masking tape and lightly touch the sag, pull > it off and then shoot the area again. Beats letting it dry, then sand and > reshoot. He says, afterwards you can't tell where you did it. I guess , > the trick is to see the sag developing in the first place. Anyone else > heard of doing this?.... Yes Ed. I also heard this somewhere along the line and have tried it on several occasions. It works. Actually I think that a strip of any material would work but masking tape is handy. - -- Mark Pierce markpi@oz.sunflower.org PA22/20 N3817P - SWPC Nieuport 11 N4140C - The Dawn Patrol KR2S (future) http://www.sunflower.org/~dstarks/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:30:01 -0600 From: pierce@pat.lgb.cal.boeing.com (Cole Pierce) Subject: Re: KR: Matching Imron; paint sags > Was talking with a guy yesterday about painting and learned something I > didn't know. He said that if you see a place where the paint is beginning > to sag, Is a sag the same as a run? gun (no Rembrandt) one ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 10:48:16 -0500 From: Vince Bozik Subject: Re: KR: T-Shirt idea > I'd prefer the golf shirt too. Didn't we do this thread last year > with > "T-Shirt Vinnie" as the protagonist? > > BTW, I just sent Malcolm Hartman a check for his KR plans. I can > almost > hear the spruce trees trembling with fear :o) > > Patrick > -- > Patrick Flowers > Mailto:patri63@ibm.net Yep, Kinda feel like I let you guys down. I got the prices and everything else on it, but didn't have a logo. The only Idea that I had was to use Carlos' logo from his pages. After spring, I was no longer working for the printing company so I kinda let the whole thing go. Everyone was real enthusiastic; too bad I was lazy... :( Heck, I'm no artistic person anyway. I'm sure these things would be 100 times better than anything I could conjur up. Cheers, Vince (was T-shirt vinnie, now New Modem Vinnie) Bozik ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:49:41 -0600 (CST) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: KR: dragging out the newsletter horse - again I just finished printing out the sections on spar and wing construction for the Long-EZ from the Rutan CR ROM's. What a nice resource, includes the manuals for all of the Rutan homebuilt designs. Printed out on legal size paper - I now have a perfect clone of the Long-EZ manual - looks just like the original. Also printed out the applicable Canard Pusher newsletters, that are also on the CD's. Granted the CD's cost $329 but what a resource for homebuilders! With the resources here on KRnet we could put together a comparable resource for KR builders. It would require getting Rand Robinson and the copyright holders of the newsletters on board but a split in royalaty payments for the individual copyright holders might do the trick. I would pay an additional $200 for a comprehensive CDROM set for the KR. It would have to have the new KR plans and all of the newsletters though. It could be done just like the Rutan CD's no license to build and no template drawings but everything else. The Rutan CD's even include the Bible - Moldless Composite Construction publication. Just my .02 + $300 worth. Will be doing an article on vacuum bagging wing assemblies for the on line KR newsletter when it is reserected. Steve Eberhart newtech@newtech.com http://www.evansville.net for glass panel info http://www.newtech.com/skyterrier (soon for my construction notes) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:51:29 -0600 (CST) From: Steven A Eberhart Subject: Re: KR: Matching Imron; paint sags On Mon, 3 Nov 1997, Cole Pierce wrote: > > Was talking with a guy yesterday about painting and learned something I > > didn't know. He said that if you see a place where the paint is beginning > > to sag, > > Is a sag the same as a run? > It is the same as being just a little pregnant ;-) Steve ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 08:00:09 -0800 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: Soob cuts At 06:45 AM 11/3/97 PST, you wrote: >I'm taking this very personally. I see that you, like Mike Mims, also >prefer to fly behind "certified". Me, I still think that "experimental" >means just that, and maybe I can make that Soob pull my (future) KR >along just fast enough to show you how the tail feathers finished out! > >Oscar > > Think DD Turbo Subaru! You don't need a reduction!! Trust me! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Micheal Mims Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 19:48:33 +0200 From: "PIERRE & ANTON FOUCHE'" Subject: KR: Re: need help on A.H. wiring Hi All I'm doing Technical Refreasher lectures tomorrow at work so I'll take a copy of this post and give it to the instrument guys, they should be able to help if they want to. Cheers Anton South Africa - ---------- > From: julie flesner > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: need help on A.H. wiring > Date: 1`01, November 01, 1997 03:58 > > Fellow netters, > > I have a Bendix Aviation model 14601-1A-A1 artifical > horizon that is 28V , 3 phase, 400 cycle. I also have > a Century Instrument Corp. model 1600, 14vdc to 28vac > converter. > > My problem is that when the instrument was removed from > the aircraft, they simply cut the wires. Does anyone > on the net have the knowledge or resource available > to tell me how to wire these two together? It is a nice > looking instrument and was supposed to be working fine > when it was removed for a panel upgrade. One of it's > features is a non-tumbling aerobatic gyro(it was built > for the Navy). The best part was it was only $100 > for the gyro and converter !!!!! I had to take a chance > at that price!!! > > Any help or guidance would be appreciated. Southern Illinois > University Aviation Tech. Dept. may be able to help me out > but I haven't had a chance to call anyone over there yet. > > Larry Flesner > > larryfle@midwest.net > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 12:36:44 -0700 From: "Jeb" Subject: Re: KR: Soob cuts My turbo-fuel-infected Soob will be great eat my dust!! John Bryhan jeb@thuntek.net // www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm Los Alamos, NM - ---------- > From: Micheal Mims > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: Re: KR: Soob cuts > Date: Monday, November 03, 1997 9:00 AM > > At 06:45 AM 11/3/97 PST, you wrote: > >I'm taking this very personally. I see that you, like Mike Mims, also > >prefer to fly behind "certified". Me, I still think that "experimental" > >means just that, and maybe I can make that Soob pull my (future) KR > >along just fast enough to show you how the tail feathers finished out! > > > >Oscar > > > > > > Think DD Turbo Subaru! You don't need a reduction!! Trust me! > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Micheal Mims > Just Plane Nutts in Irvine Ca. > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://home.pacbell.net/mikemims > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:42:08 -0800 From: enewbold@sprynet.com Subject: Re: KR: Taxi Testing KR-1 Well, another frustrating weekend went by. Went to airport both days and experienced relatively high winds, drizzle, cold, etc. It takes me about 20-30 flips to get the engine started. When it does start, however, it runs nicely in the mid-range and high RPM ranges. Not so at idle though. I let it warm up sufficiently by babying the throttle back and forth between std-idle and a very high idle. When I got in it and started taxiing around, about 1 minute later the engine died. Seems that it loads up in a prolonged idle, and when you advance the trhottle to clear it, the engine dies. Ugh! Another 20-30 flips to start it. It has a Posa carb on it, and this week I'm going to fiddle around with the air mix needle and see if I can't figure this thing out. Any suggestions? When I was taxiing it, the plane tracked fairly straight, but when I wanted a little turn, I had to use full rudder deflection to initiate a turn. Of course, when you then apply a little power that full rudder deflection kicks you around a little too fast. Upon a closer examinatiion of the tailwheel cable attachment to the rudder cable, it appears that the tailwheel cable is way too loose. As loose as it is, it requires that full rudder deflection to turn the tail wheel a little. Sooo... Also this week, I'm going to CUT the tail wheel cable much shorter and install a compression spring setup, very much like the setup on the Cub parked next to me in the hangar. I'm going to adjust the whole mess so that a little rudder move the tail wheel a little, and a lot of rudder moves the tail wheel a lot. Any comments here? Oh, and I received the Jim Weir RST antenna book and kit everyone was talking about, and you're right; it's very good. It took me no time at all to cut and install a correct length COM antenna in the fuselage. Thanks guys! This was the best $35 I've ever spent! That's it for the time being. More to come in the future. (Still looking for a small portable mode-C transponder though). Ed Newbold Columbus, OH ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V1 #157 *****************************