From: owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com[SMTP:owner-krnet-l-digest@teleport.com] Sent: Monday, July 06, 1998 3:31 PM To: krnet-l-digest@teleport.com Subject: krnet-l-digest V2 #110 krnet-l-digest Monday, July 6 1998 Volume 02 : Number 110 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 05:17:11 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: spark plugs to best of my knowledge these are refurbished plugs dating from the 50's. current plug is rej38 or rel37b - champion. steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 05:37:30 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: smokin' VW's? the stock vw crank in both t1 and t4 is a forged crank made from 1045 steel. steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 05:38:53 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: cast cranks some vw industrial engines used as water pumps, generator sets etc had cast cranks from vw. VW Brasil now makes only cast cranks I believe. steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 05:40:04 +0000 From: Great Plains Aircraft Subject: Re: KR: cast cranks all 69mm cranks we use are slotted. steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 09:59:08 PDT From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: Smokin' VWs Aha! Here all this time I thought Two-Tango-Charlie (Tom Crawford's KR) was running an 1835 stocker. No bloomin' wonder it cruises at 180, Tom- a 2.4L T4? how is it set up? If you posted details on your engine and prop, I missed them. I'm still on the digest list, and trying to catch up on two weeks of posts while I was away in Texas. Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Jul 1998 10:07:09 PDT From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR: Sound levels Hello again, Netters I've been following the posts regarding sound insulation, and to me it sounds well worth the effort to use some kind of soundproofing around the cabin. Weight-wise, I guess you can't beat the foam board- might as well use the lightest stuff you can find. I talked to Paul Martin last night to see if he's taxi-testing his KR yet; I rousted him out of a merry old sanding/filling session in his shop. He mentioned that his rig is very quiet since he installed his exhaust silencers. Muffler tips right out of the VW aftermarket. Simple, available, effective. I have a sound meter here in the office, and once Paul gets to doing his taxi tests, I might just set up a test at 25 ft. or 50 ft. and do some sound pressure tests with and without the silencers. I'm all for running quiet if possible, and am curious about how effective these are. Of course, the prop noise is still there. Several props are reputed to run quieter than stock, the "Felix" prop being one. On airboats, it's said to be a great help. Oscar Zuniga Medford, OR ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 10:02:30 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: KR: test test zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 949.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 15:50:44 -0400 From: Kip Anderson Subject: Re: KR: test Test recieved. Micheal Mims wrote: > test > zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz > Micheal Mims > SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ > Irvine Ca > Fax 949.856.9417 > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 18:20:53 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: N541RY Progress report Well, I fixed my radio problem! I raised Unicom today on the Pilot side of my Intercom, and I can hear myself talk on the intercom. It turned out I had wired the MIC jacks wrong (swapped MIC and PTT), also the PTT ground was open, so fixing all of this got me 100%. Then, of course I had the PTT line for Pilot/Co-Pilot swapped, but once I fixed this... Viola! I was on the air! I'm psyched! It sounds really crisp & clear so far... I don't have the engine running yet. So far the RST antenna seems like it is working GREAT... but we will have to wait for a real range test later. I then primed my primer till it squirted fuel all over, and hooked it up to the intake manifold. So far... I can crank and crank, but the engine doesn't kick over. It sounds at times like it MIGHT want to do somthing, I've ended up draining the batter so far. Here are things I have to check: 1 ) TIMING I dumped Bob Hoover's "Finding TDC" sermon on the web from the KRNET VW link. This will allow me to verify TDC. I also made a XEROX of the timing wheel in the Great Planes manual and hope to validate that I have some good static timing this evening. 2) Fuel I have pretty good fuel flow from the Gascolator, but I am running from the header tank. This is gravity feed, and the Ellison may not see enough head pressure to feed any fuel. The Ellison needs to be primed, and my primer setup only feeds one cylinder. This may not be adequate, so I will prime some additional cylinders tonight manually while removing the plugs to find TDC. I can run a short plastic hose to a 2.5 gal fuel tank from the stub wing at the moment, to use boost pump fuel to troubleshoot this. (My wings are at home for finishing.) 3) Electrical I am using an electronic ignition. It may well be that while the starter is cranking, the voltage from my small motorcycle battery may not be enough to feed the ignition as well, but I did get some signs of ignition that sounded consistant with one cylinder firing. I'll keep everyone posted. This is probably the second day this month I have had a chance to work on my plane, so progress is slow, but we are MOVING ahead! -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 18:22:16 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Re: Arlington Flyin Marvin, I will be there Saturday I think, but we will be leaving sometime that day, as I have to fly to San-Jose Sunday. I will double check our schedule with my flying partner. -- Ross MARVIN MCCOY wrote: > Ross: > Are you going to be at arlington saturday? If so lets meet at the > picknik table at the little bar b q cantina on the main drag about 10:00 > am. > > Marvin McCoy > Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field > mr.marvin@worldnet.att.net > ------------- > > Ross Youngblood wrote: > > > > Tom, > > Belive me, no one is sorrier than I about missing Perry last year! > > I renewed my medical Monday, and am planning to be at Arlington Next week. > > > > -- Regards > > Ross > > -- > > Tom Stokes wrote: > > > > > On Sat, 27 Jun 1998 12:16:47 -0700 Ross Youngblood > > > writes: > > > >I will be out of town most of the time from now till I get to go to > > > >Arlington, > > > >I don't know > > > >how orginized I will be, but I will be there, and ready to talk KR! > > > > > > > > -- Ross > > > > > > I don't know Ross I drove all the way to Perry, OK last year to meet you > > > and you didn't show. But one of my kids did have fun bouncing on Bobby > > > Muse's wing. > > > > > > Tom in Reno NV > > > > > > _____________________________________________________________________ > > > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > > > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > > > Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 18:24:53 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: Sound levels Oscar and/or Paul Say, post the particulars about those exhaust tips! I think I might use one of those on the end of my 4->1 exhaust if I need it. Hopefully I will find out tonight, and can post the .wav file on the web as soon as I get some engine vroom sounds. - -- Ross Oscar Zuniga wrote: > Hello again, Netters > > I've been following the posts regarding sound insulation, and to me it > sounds well worth the effort to use some kind of soundproofing around > the cabin. Weight-wise, I guess you can't beat the foam board- might as > well use the lightest stuff you can find. > > I talked to Paul Martin last night to see if he's taxi-testing his KR > yet; I rousted him out of a merry old sanding/filling session in his > shop. He mentioned that his rig is very quiet since he installed his > exhaust silencers. Muffler tips right out of the VW aftermarket. > Simple, available, effective. I have a sound meter here in the office, > and once Paul gets to doing his taxi tests, I might just set up a test > at 25 ft. or 50 ft. and do some sound pressure tests with and without > the silencers. I'm all for running quiet if possible, and am curious > about how effective these are. Of course, the prop noise is still > there. Several props are reputed to run quieter than stock, the "Felix" > prop being one. On airboats, it's said to be a great help. > > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, OR > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 18:46:26 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: N541RY Progress report At 06:20 PM 7/5/98 -0700, you wrote: >2) Fuel > I have pretty good fuel flow from the Gascolator, but I am running > from the header tank. This is gravity feed, and the Ellison may not > see enough head pressure to feed any fuel. >>> FYI ,..Neither of the Ellisons in my hanger use pumps in any way. They are strictly gravity feed. They have been gravity fed for a combined total of over 600 hours. From what I have seen and heard the only time they need a little extra head pressure is at full power. I doubt that lack of head pressure is your problem but you never know. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 949.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 21:31:18 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: starting a new engine Ross, At the risk of telling you stuff that you already know, I'll offer the following tales of how I used to start engines that I'd just rebuilt (back when I was a VW "heavy line" engine builder guy at a dealership). 1) find the TDC at which both intake and exhaust valves are "loose" which indicates it should be about to fire 2) move pulley (degree wheel, whatever) to 7.5 or 10 degrees BTDC or whatever your distributor or mag requires. 3) loosen the mounting bolts and rotate the distributor in the direction opposite to the direction the rotor rotates until it fires, and tighten down the clamp bolts. Now you know that thing is timed right, and that it does get a spark at the right time. Spin the engine around by hand once to check to make sure that when it hits 7.5 degree BTDC, it fires. 4) Go find a big fire extinguisher 5) Get somebody to crank the engine over with the coil wire (or a plug wire) removed while holding it 1/10" from the engine case to see if you get a nice spark. That eliminates the lack of current problem. 6) Make sure the float bowl is full (if you have one) and operate the accelerator pump a few times (which you don't have). 7) Put gasoline in a spray bottle and shoot a fine mist into the carb inlet and start it up. If it runs for a second and dies, you've got a fuel supply problem. If it doesn't run or backfires, maybe some of your valves are too tight. If it starts the house on fire, don't blame me... I used to work with a bozo who would throw an engine together and crank and crank and crank that sucker while rotating the distributor (backfiring, belching smoke, scaring everybody in the place, etc) until the battery was dead and the starter was smoking. I took pride in the fact that I could start one on the first or second compression stroke, but then I'm just that AR I guess... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kr2s.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 20:20:25 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: starting a new engine At 09:31 PM 7/5/98 -0500, you wrote: >2) move pulley (degree wheel, whatever) to 7.5 or 10 degrees BTDC or >whatever your distributor or mag requires.>>>> Only because I have never done it will someone who has,.. run through the basic procedure for setting the timing on a Lyc or Continental that has Slick or Bendix mags? I have watched the A&Ps at our shop do it and they make it look pretty involved with the little buzz box and special degree wheels on the nose cone. zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Irvine Ca Fax 949.856.9417 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 5 Jul 1998 20:09:12 -0700 From: "John Bouyea" Subject: KR: Arlington Flyin Sounds like Saturday @ 10 a.m. it is. As long as it's VFR, I'll see you guys there! I'm hoping to arrive Friday afternoon/ evening & camp the night. Be on the lookout for a blue & white fixed gear Cardinal, N30502. John Bouyea kr2 - on the gear kr2s - building the spars Hillsboro, Oregon - ---------- > From: Ross Youngblood > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: Re: KR: Re: Arlington Flyin > Date: Sunday, July 05, 1998 6:22 PM > > Marvin, > I will be there Saturday I think, but we will be leaving sometime that day, as I > have to > fly to San-Jose Sunday. I will double check our schedule with my flying partner. > -- Ross > > MARVIN MCCOY wrote: > > > Ross: > > Are you going to be at arlington saturday? If so lets meet at the > > picknik table at the little bar b q cantina on the main drag about 10:00 > > am. > > > > Marvin McCoy > > Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field > > mr.marvin@worldnet.att.net > > ------------- > > > > Ross Youngblood wrote: > > > > > > Tom, > > > Belive me, no one is sorrier than I about missing Perry last year! > > > I renewed my medical Monday, and am planning to be at Arlington Next week. > > > > > > -- Regards > > > Ross > > > -- > > > Tom Stokes wrote: > > > > > > > On Sat, 27 Jun 1998 12:16:47 -0700 Ross Youngblood > > > > writes: > > > > >I will be out of town most of the time from now till I get to go to > > > > >Arlington, > > > > >I don't know > > > > >how orginized I will be, but I will be there, and ready to talk KR! > > > > > > > > > > -- Ross > > > > > > > > I don't know Ross I drove all the way to Perry, OK last year to meet you > > > > and you didn't show. But one of my kids did have fun bouncing on Bobby > > > > Muse's wing. > > > > > > > > Tom in Reno NV > > > > > > > > _____________________________________________________________________ > > > > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > > > > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com > > > > Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 22:31:14 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: N541RY Engine Running Woo Hoo! I went back out to the airport this evening (6:00-9:00), and checked TDC. I also pulled all of the plugs to take a look at them. I am priming only the #4 cylinder (my VW uses the automotive numbering #4 is right front cyl looking forward from the cockpit, magneto timing has a different firing order... this caused me some concern/confusion this afternoon until I tracked it down). At any rate, the #4 plug had NO GAP, it seemed some bozo must have dropped the spark plug and inserted it into the cylinder without re-checking the gap. At that point I was concerned that the cylinder might be hitting the plug which caused this, so I checked all the other plugs, they were OK. I also checked to insure that I am using the correct BOSH plug, this was also OK. With all the plugs removed I re-checked #1 cylinder TDC, and found that my timing was reasonably OK. (I taped a XEROX of the timing wheel from the Great Planes Engine manual in preperation for timing light usage). I decided to insure that each cylinder had some fuel in it this time, so I put a little fuel in each cylinder before re-installing the plugs, and I also put some directly into the throat of the Ellison. Then I turned on the master and started cranking. After a couple of tries, the engine sprang to life, I ran it to about 2000-2500 RPM, for about 15 minutes. During this time, I attempted to see how well I could see the timing marks, but found that my timing light was non-functional. I finally had to shut down before the 20 minute break in time, as the oil temp began climbing beyond 220 degrees. I didn't have the prop on, nor any engine baffling or cowling, so I'm hoping to set the timing, and start dressing it up next time. The EGT and CHT sensors did not appear to be working although I've got oil pressure between 50 and 75 PSI. I was so excited, I didn't take a good reading of it and haven't checked to see if this is within norms. "DOH!" Another thing I was able to check was the radio reception with the engine running at 2000 RPM. I was looking for noise that was proportional to RPM, but I didn't want to change RPM much. At any rate, I was able to broadcast and recieved a reply from another experimental aircraft approaching the field about 5 miles away. Considering half my fuselage was in the hangar, this seems to be pretty good. So far I don't seem to have too much noise, but I do think I may have a slight detectable whine which could be cleared up with a small capacitor. I also haven't finish running all my ground braids from the firewall to the instrument panel. I recorded the engine sounds, but used a poor quality micro-cassette recorder, I don't think I can transfer anything audible to the PC tonight, but eventually I will have somthing real-audio to put up on my web site. I'm pumped up!!!!!!! - -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 22:35:23 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: Arlington I just got off the phone with the guy who will be flying me to Arlington. He has rented a C-172RG, and my daughter and I will be flying up with him Thursday evening. We will be trying to caravan with several other Corvallis EAA Chapter 1183 members but expect to arrive shortly after 8:00 PM which we are told is a good time, as traffic is light, and the tower has closed... we shall see. Our plans are to stay through the weekend and leave Sunday morning, so I can get back to CVO, in time to drive north, and catch a big plane back to San-Jose on Sunday the 12th. If the weather looks bad, we may leave Saturday instead, so I can make that flight. One of my local EAA friends just picked up a Soob from Arlington last week (Stratus), I was going to snap some photos of it mounted on his Zenair Zodiac. I didn't catch up with him, but it got me motivated to get MY engine running!!!! Having FUN! - -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 22:39:07 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: N541RY Progress report Mike, Thanks for the post! It turns out that fuel starvation does not seem to be a problem. With about 2 gallons of fuel in the header tank, the engine ran fine on gravity feed... once I got it started. I haven't played too much with it to know if I would want to attempt a climb out with only 2 gallons of fuel, but at 2000RPM it seems fine. Micheal Mims wrote: > At 06:20 PM 7/5/98 -0700, you wrote: > >2) Fuel > > I have pretty good fuel flow from the Gascolator, but I am running > > from the header tank. This is gravity feed, and the Ellison may not > > see enough head pressure to feed any fuel. >>> > > FYI ,..Neither of the Ellisons in my hanger use pumps in any way. They are > strictly gravity feed. They have been gravity fed for a combined total of > over 600 hours. From what I have seen and heard the only time they need a > little extra head pressure is at full power. I doubt that lack of head > pressure is your problem but you never know. > zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz > Micheal Mims > SP290,.. Filling and sanding now! > mailto:mikemims@pacbell.net > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ > Irvine Ca > Fax 949.856.9417 > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 22:54:41 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: Engine Hoses/Fittings I am temporarily running 1/8" aluminum line for primer and oil pressure from the VW through the firewall. I will need to replace this with some flexible hose I believe. I was wondering what folks have done as far as hose assemblies go. I talked with a local EAA'er who has found a local fitting outfit which can make JIC 37deg flared stanless fittings and he has run these from the engine to his engine computer sensors. I may check into this. Just wondering if anyone has PHOTOS etc of there engine hose installations that I can take a peek at for ideas. -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 22:56:00 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: starting a new engine Mark, Thanks for the post. > Mark Langford wrote: > > Ross, > > At the risk of telling you stuff that you already know, I'll offer the > following tales of how I used to start engines that I'd just rebuilt (back > when I was a VW "heavy line" engine builder guy at a dealership). > > 1) find the TDC at which both intake and exhaust valves are "loose" which > indicates it should be about to fire > > 2) move pulley (degree wheel, whatever) to 7.5 or 10 degrees BTDC or > whatever your distributor or mag requires. > > 3) loosen the mounting bolts and rotate the distributor in the direction > opposite to the direction the rotor rotates until it fires, and tighten down > the clamp bolts. Now you know that thing is timed right, and that it does > get a spark at the right time. Spin the engine around by hand once to check > to make sure that when it hits 7.5 degree BTDC, it fires. > The stuff from Bob Hoovers "Sermon" pages on TDC covered #1, #2, and #3 pretty well. I had the timing OK, but it was good to check it. Seems this bozo didn't put a real good mark on the prop hub for TDC, so I had to do it this time. DOH! I also checked the valves and found that the #1 intake valve was a bit tight (less than .006 clearance), so I re-adjusted it. I had checked the valve clearance back in March, so don't know what is up there. I will re-check ALL the valves tomorrow or before I re-start. Timing was reasonably good. As part of validating TDC I had all the plugs removed, and the #1 plug had no gap... seems some bozo had dropped this plug, and re-installed it without checking the gap! DOH! This was 95% of my problem. > 4) Go find a big fire extinguisher > Got one! > 5) Get somebody to crank the engine over with the coil wire (or a plug > wire) removed while holding it 1/10" from the engine case to see if you get > a nice spark. That eliminates the lack of current problem. I didn't check this, but it was on my list if nothing else worked. > 6) Make sure the float bowl is full (if you have one) and operate the > accelerator > pump a few times (which you don't have). Couldn't do #6 for the Ellison... however I had checked the Gascolator bowl... andthen I went straight to step #7 (Burn down hangar). > 7) Put gasoline in a spray bottle and shoot a fine mist into the carb inlet > and start it up. If it runs for a second and dies, you've got a fuel supply > problem. If it doesn't run or backfires, maybe some of your valves are too > tight. If it starts the house on fire, don't blame me... > > I used to work with a bozo who would throw an engine together and crank and > crank and crank that sucker while rotating the distributor (backfiring, > belching smoke, scaring everybody in the place, etc) until the battery was > dead and the starter was smoking. I took pride in the fact that I could > start one on the first or second compression stroke, but then I'm just that > AR I guess... It started on about the 2nd or 3rd try after I did all of the above. However,earlier I DID run my small motorcycle battery down playing with the distributor in 1/8 degree increments. Turns out the sweet spot I found where the engine "almost" started, was the right place all along. Just needed a gap on the cylinder that I was priming. - -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 11 Jun 1998 02:25:40 -0400 From: David Subject: KR: subscribing/unsubscribing I am in the process of moving and I need to unsubscribe for some time and I must have deleted the details on how to do it, could I get the info? Thanks ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 23:37:11 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: KR: Engine Sound ONLINE OK I was able to amplify a bad recording of my engine VROOM sounds. You can hear it if you have Netscape 4.x on a PC by going to the following link http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/engine.wav I have the file also as REAL audio, but I don't have a decoder if you want the REAL audio version http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/rafiles/engine.ra I haven't tried this with Microsoft IE nor can I validate it with AOL stuff. But let me know if it works under AOL! -- Regards Ross ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Jul 1998 23:43:22 -0700 From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Re: KR: subscribing/unsubscribing Members can unsubscribe by sending the following email to majordomo@teleport.com mailto:majordomo@teleport.com Subj: anything BODY TEXT: unsubscribe krnet-l myaddress@mycomputer.com end Remember it is KRNET-L (The LETTER) and it has to be lowercase for majordomo. Remember to use your FULL email address. If this doesn't work, send me an email to either of: mailto:krnet@krnet.org mailto:rossy@teleport.com And I will do it for you, however it may take several days to two weeks for me to process your request, depending on the amount of time I can spend sifting through krnet admin emails. Bounced emails typically fill up my mailbox from users who fail to unsubscribe but let their email accounts go inactive, so please drop me a line if you want to unsubscribe... I don't mind doing it, I'm just not responding as quickly as I would like, or you would like whichever the case may be. - -- Regards Ross > I am in the process of moving and I need to unsubscribe for some time > and I must have deleted the details on how to do it, could I get the > info? Thanks ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 10:58:27 -0500 From: Trent Flemming Subject: KR: Count ME In, Purchased the Spruce Hello group, I recieved my Spruce the other day from Alpha Aviation in Greenville, TX. I have a question regarding glue, I bought some T-88, but was wondering what everybody used for the fuselage. Our East Texas weather has been running in the Mid 90's to Low 100's (hot) and the humidity has been between 50% and 80% most of the time. Is T-88 the glue (epoxy) for me or should I use Aerolite Glue. Also is there anyone else on this list that is just getting started on there KR project. Thanks for the help. Looking forward to meeting some of ya'll and seeing some nice KR's at the Perry Flyin. FYI My Name Trent Flemming Location East Texas (Longview) Project KR-2S Percent Completed Just a large dent in the wallet for Spruce. :) Thanks again ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 11:12:13 -0500 From: "Bob Sauer" Subject: KR: Re: Count ME In, Purchased the Spruce Welcome I am at Smithville, TX with about the same temps/humidity. Used T-88 very successfully. I have the boat, spars and tail group completed on my KR2S. Presently installing hardware for controls. ANYBODY= NEED INFOR ON EPOXY for high temps and humidity. Any suggestions??? Bob - ---------- > From: Trent Flemming > To: krnet-l@teleport.com > Subject: KR: Count ME In, Purchased the Spruce > Date: Monday, July 06, 1998 10:58 AM > > Hello group, > > I recieved my Spruce the other day from Alpha Aviation in Greenville, TX. > I have a question regarding glue, I bought some T-88, but was wondering > what everybody used for the fuselage. Our East Texas weather has been > running in the Mid 90's to Low 100's (hot) and the humidity has been between > 50% and 80% most of the time. Is T-88 the glue (epoxy) for me or should I > use Aerolite Glue. > > Also is there anyone else on this list that is just getting started on there > KR project. > > Thanks for the help. > Looking forward to meeting some of ya'll and seeing some nice KR's at the > Perry Flyin. > > FYI > > My Name Trent Flemming > Location East Texas (Longview) > Project KR-2S > Percent Completed Just a large dent in the wallet for Spruce. :) > > Thanks again > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 09:53:35 -0600 From: Adrian Carter Subject: Re: KR: Engine Hoses/Fittings And Again, I used 1/8" copper for both like you have to feedthru AN hardware, but it is important to put a 360deg. 2"-3" circle in the lines to allow it to vibrate and provide slack. I did not use any flex except for the fuel-line with fire sleeve over the fuel-line from the gascolator mounted on the firewall to the carb. Worked well for over 100hrs. but, felt that they should be changed with new in case of fatigue however, it still has not been changed. Good Luck! Ross Youngblood wrote: > > I am temporarily running 1/8" aluminum line for primer and oil pressure > from the VW through the firewall. > I will need to replace this with some flexible hose I believe. I was > wondering what folks have done as > far as hose assemblies go. > > I talked with a local EAA'er who has found a local fitting outfit which > can make JIC 37deg flared stanless > fittings and he has run these from the engine to his engine computer > sensors. I may check into this. > > Just wondering if anyone has PHOTOS etc of there engine hose > installations that I can take a peek at for > ideas. > > -- Regards > Ross ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 09:35:36 -0600 From: Adrian Carter Subject: Re: KR: N541RY Engine Running Woo Hoo! Congratulations the first fart - dos'nt it feel good to hear that engine start up for the first time. However, I want to caution you to have a load on the crank to seat the rings. Just running it without a prop on is a bad deal. Could cause you problems in the future. Any kind of prop as long as it fits the hub and clears the ground but, you need a load. Also, I used a Slick mag and on it my advance was 28 degrees. Certainly a lot more than Mark was using 7 or 8 degrees. Maybe that's just the nature of the beast and electrical system. "Good Luck" and give her hell Ross! Ross Youngblood wrote: > > I went back out to the airport this evening (6:00-9:00), and checked > TDC. I also pulled > all of the plugs to take a look at them. I am priming only the #4 > cylinder (my VW uses the > automotive numbering #4 is right front cyl looking forward from the > cockpit, magneto > timing has a different firing order... this caused me some > concern/confusion this afternoon > until I tracked it down). At any rate, the #4 plug had NO GAP, it > seemed some bozo must > have dropped the spark plug and inserted it into the cylinder without > re-checking the gap. > > At that point I was concerned that the cylinder might be hitting the > plug which caused this, so > I checked all the other plugs, they were OK. I also checked to insure > that I am using the correct > BOSH plug, this was also OK. With all the plugs removed I re-checked #1 > cylinder TDC, and found > that my timing was reasonably OK. (I taped a XEROX of the timing wheel > from the Great Planes > Engine manual in preperation for timing light usage). > > I decided to insure that each cylinder had some fuel in it this time, so > I put a little fuel in each cylinder > before re-installing the plugs, and I also put some directly into the > throat of the Ellison. Then I > turned on the master and started cranking. After a couple of tries, the > engine sprang to life, I > ran it to about 2000-2500 RPM, for about 15 minutes. During this time, > I attempted to see how well > I could see the timing marks, but found that my timing light was > non-functional. I finally had to > shut down before the 20 minute break in time, as the oil temp began > climbing beyond 220 degrees. > > I didn't have the prop on, nor any engine baffling or cowling, so I'm > hoping to set the timing, and > start dressing it up next time. > > The EGT and CHT sensors did not appear to be working although I've got > oil pressure between > 50 and 75 PSI. I was so excited, I didn't take a good reading of it and > haven't checked to see > if this is within norms. "DOH!" > > Another thing I was able to check was the radio reception with the > engine running at 2000 RPM. > I was looking for noise that was proportional to RPM, but I didn't want > to change RPM much. At > any rate, I was able to broadcast and recieved a reply from another > experimental aircraft approaching > the field about 5 miles away. Considering half my fuselage was in the > hangar, this seems to be pretty > good. So far I don't seem to have too much noise, but I do think I may > have a slight detectable whine > which could be cleared up with a small capacitor. I also haven't finish > running all my ground braids from > the firewall to the instrument panel. > > I recorded the engine sounds, but used a poor quality micro-cassette > recorder, I don't think I can transfer > anything audible to the PC tonight, but eventually I will have somthing > real-audio to put up on my web site. > > I'm pumped up!!!!!!! > -- Regards > Ross ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 10:29:38 -0700 From: Micheal Mims Subject: Re: KR: N541RY Engine Running Woo Hoo! Adrian Carter wrote: > Also, I used a Slick mag and on it my advance was 28 degrees. Certainly > a lot more than Mark was using 7 or 8 degrees. Maybe that's just the > nature of the beast and electrical system. I think that was because Mark was referring to autos which have an advance system. I think a typical auto will advance up into the 20s once the rpm comes up a bit. Adrian,..How's it going up there in the great white north? Probably not so white right now but still great I imagine! :o) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 12:52:10 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: total advance > I think that was because Mark was referring to autos which have an > advance system. I think a typical auto will advance up into the 20s > once the rpm comes up a bit. Yep, one more reason I want a distributor instead of a mag. 7.5 or 10 degrees BTDC (depending on 009 or 050 or whatever type of Bosch distributor you have, at idle. The only right way to set it up once it's warmed up and running is with an "advancing" timing light that you can dial in 28 degrees of total advance (or whatever you think you're lucky enough to get away with) at something over 2500 rpm or wherever the distributor stops advancing. I'll probably go with 28 to start with, since my 2110cc Karmann Ghia has survived for years at that setting. Mark Langford mailto:langford@hiwaay.net KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 14:38:50 -0400 From: Harold P Subject: KR: Kr: Limbach engine Hi there ! I would like to contact an owner with a Limbach engine. Thanks & Rgds Harold KR-2 CGKAV Montreal mailto:haroldp@sympatico.ca > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 12:22:55 -0600 From: Adrian Carter Subject: Re: KR: N541RY Engine Running Woo Hoo! Hi Gang, Yep, knew that it was automotive, just wanted to include my setting. Did a lot of experimenting and settled on 28 deg. just what Rex Taylor said it should be. Your KR is sure looking good! Yes, the wx is real nice 25 deg C and of course we have the Calgary Stampede on for the next 10 days. A lot of your friends are up here, makes for an economical holiday with the monentary exchange rate as it is, your money is worth just about 50 percent more. Just think the saving for spruce from Canada. Micheal Mims wrote: > > Adrian Carter wrote: > > > Also, I used a Slick mag and on it my advance was 28 degrees. Certainly > > a lot more than Mark was using 7 or 8 degrees. Maybe that's just the > > nature of the beast and electrical system. > > I think that was because Mark was referring to autos which have an > advance system. I think a typical auto will advance up into the 20s > once the rpm comes up a bit. > > Adrian,..How's it going up there in the great white north? Probably not > so white right now but still great I imagine! :o) - -- Adrian VE6AFY Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 06 Jul 1998 15:24:29 From: Austin Clark Subject: KR: Front Deck Questions I got a pretty good start on my front deck this weekend and would like some input on it's construction. I plan to make it removeable using the piano hinge technique. What are some thoughts on the fuel tank being a seperate assembly vs an integral part. Does someone have a photo on their web page showing detail of how it mounts to the firewall. I have thought about making a double flange, one on the inside of the firewall for the deck and one on the outside for the cowling. Appreciate any comments. Austin Clark Pascagoula, MS ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 6 Jul 1998 17:29:31 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR: RE: Front Deck Questions > Does someone have a photo on > their web page > showing detail of how it mounts to the firewall. Austin, I'm sure you've seen it already, but if not, visit my page at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/kmarkl.html and see "Header fuel tank / forward deck" and "New tankless forward deck" for excruciating details on these matters. I don't think you really need to fasten it to the firewall, but it certainly couldn't hurt I guess, unless your engine falls off and rips your tank in half. But then I'm famous for being a pessimist. It can just rest on the front shelf and longerons quite nicely. Just don't make it as deep as I made my header tank. Make sure your shoes will fit under there without being trapped. I'd leave off the bottom section from the way I did mine. I'd probably build the "New tankless deck" and simply add a fuel tank to the bottom of it, it was so easy... Your double flange for the cowling sounds good too, but I accomplished that by lowering my front template a little (I should have shaved off 1/8" all around to do the same thing. Good luck. Mark Langford mailto:langford@hiwaay.net KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ End of krnet-l-digest V2 #110 *****************************