From: jfdewet@intekom.co.za[SMTP:jfdewet@intekom.co.za] on behalf of KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 1:11 PM To: 'KR-net users group' Subject: RE: [kr-net] Re: prop and valve adjustments KR-net users group Digest for Wednesday, December 09, 1998. 1. Type 4 Engine 2. Instrument cutouts/virtual toolbox 3. prop and valve adjustments 4. Re: prop and valve adjustments 5. Re: prop and valve adjustments 6. RE: Type 4 Engine 7. Fairings 8. Flapper valve? 9. Re: KR-2S Spars 10. stick article 11. Re: KR-2S Spars 12. Re: Fairings ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Type 4 Engine From: "doug peyton" Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 05:25:01 PST X-Message-Number: 1 Mark, Thanks for the advice; I'll keep the flywheel and accessory case. Do you think it would be OK to bolt the accessory case directly to the KR-2 firewall or perhaps some 2" square tubing? Would that cause too much vibration to the airframe? I would still have those Y-shaped rubber shocks at the four accessory-case mounting points. Doug Peyton Stuttgart. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Instrument cutouts/virtual toolbox From: "Oscar Zuniga" Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 05:33:45 PST X-Message-Number: 2 Hello, netters I was looking at the knockout tool that is available for making instrument hole cutouts (reversible, 2-1/4" to 3-1/8") as well as the little jig thing for drilling the mounting holes. Together, the two items are quite a few bucks for a one-shot job. There are other specialized tools used in the construction of a KR, possibly like a good Nicopre*s tool, so I was wondering if any kind of "virtual toolbox" idea has ever been discussed here. Between any 10 or so KRNetters, this stuff would be affordable, and then these specialized tools could be placed in circulation in a "KRNet Virtual Toolbox". Maybe a separate page on the krnet.org webpage could be used for keeping track of who has what, or checking out a tool. I know it could get to be a mess, with tools getting lost and broken, but just a thought. Any comments? Anybody want to go in with me on the hole punch and drilling die? ;o) Post privately... Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: prop and valve adjustments From: "Jesse Klebsch" Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 08:59:30 PST X-Message-Number: 3 Can anyone tell me how much to torque the wooden prop on my KR, it doesn't have a name, only the size written on it. Also, the rocker arms are adjustable and the lifters are hydraulic on my 1835 vw, how are they supposed to be set? Please forgive my ignorance as i'm rather new at this. Thanks, Jesse Klebsch ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: prop and valve adjustments From: DClarke351@aol.com Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 12:29:08 EST X-Message-Number: 4 I was instructed by my wooden prop maker to torque it from 10 to 14 ft lbs. If your engine has hydraulic lifter it is not supposed to be adjustable. Hop-e this helps ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: prop and valve adjustments From: Kobus de Wet Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 23:11:47 +0200 X-Message-Number: 5 I run a 2Lt. type V and have a book on the set-up of the hydraulic valve settings. The book is in the workshop at the moment (23:10 local) tomorrow I will get the book out and send you the instructions. Regards Kobus de Wet Cape Town, South Africa GMT + 2.00 http://home.intekom.com/kobusdw/ ---------- From: DClarke351@aol.com[SMTP:DClarke351@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 19:29 To: KR-net users group Subject: [kr-net] Re: prop and valve adjustments I was instructed by my wooden prop maker to torque it from 10 to 14 ft lbs. If your engine has hydraulic lifter it is not supposed to be adjustable. Hop-e this helps --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jfdewet@intekom.co.za To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: Type 4 Engine From: "Mark Langford" Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 17:30:26 -0600 X-Message-Number: 6 Doug Peyton wrote: > Do you think it would be OK to bolt the accessory case directly to the > KR-2 firewall or perhaps some 2" square tubing? Would that cause too > much vibration to the airframe? I would still have those Y-shaped > rubber shocks at the four accessory-case mounting points. Where would you put your mag if the accessory case were bolted to the firewall? The old stainless steel bowl trick? And the Diehl case looks like you'd need about and inch and a half of spacer between the firewall and the mounts. I suppose you can do whatever you need to do, since this is "experimental". But if you bolt the accessory case directly to the firewall, the mount points will be pretty far away from the longerons, and probably would miss the usual bottom cross member entirely. I think I'd try to make a mount that ties closer to the longerons, but maybe that's what you meant with the 2" square tubing. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Fairings From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 17:38:21 -0600 X-Message-Number: 7 Netters: Have a question not directly related to KR application, I guess ( unless for fixed gear) - but does anyone know a source for plastic fairings for tubing that need to hang out in the breeze? I've seen them made out of plastic (metal ones can get dented) on some ultralight applications, but don't know who makes or sells them. Ed Janssen ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Flapper valve? From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 17:42:45 -0600 X-Message-Number: 8 Netters, I'm looking for a small flapper-type valve that would accept about an 1-1/2 flexible tubing, for cabin heat control application. Got any ideas? Ed Janssen ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR-2S Spars From: MARVIN MCCOY Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 16:48:08 -0800 X-Message-Number: 9 Olga Saunders wrote: > > My question is this, do the closed in spaces inside the > spar box need to ventilated ? > > ------------------------- YES. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field -------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: stick article From: "Mark Langford" Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 20:11:52 -0600 X-Message-Number: 10 StickHeads, During my visit to England Richard Mole let me borrow the lastest issue of Popular Flying Magazine. There is an article detailing a stick in which the aileron cables aren't tweaked as in the KR plans. It's not a perfect match, but certainly goes a long way toward solving the problem. They're at: http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/stick1.gif and http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/stick2.gif There's also an 8 page article on Richard's recent trip to the arctic circle in his Jodel. I'll try to scan it before I send it back to him. Excellent reading. Sorry, Richard, but I forgot to put it in the box with the rest of the stuff I sent you, so it'll be a little late. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR-2S Spars From: Donald Reid Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 21:27:18 -0500 X-Message-Number: 11 HAshraf@aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 12/8/98 5:29:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, donreid@erols.com > writes: > > << > As per a suggestion by an engineer at RR, I covered both sides of my > spars > > with a shear web. My question is this, do the closed in spaces inside the > > spar box need to ventilated ? I've heard of similiar closed in air pockets > > causing delamination at altitude with glass layups. > > Most definitely, drill at least one small hole in each enclosed cavity > in the spar. Failure to do so can lead to a castastrophic failure of > the spar. It is not extremely likely, but there is no reason not to > take the precaution. >> > > How about a small pinhole in each web? It should to work too if some one > forget to drill the verticle pieces. > It looks like I was not as clear as I could have been. A small hole in the shear web is the easiest way to vent the cavity. I did not specify and it sounds like there may have been some confusion. I used 1/8" -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Fairings From: JEHayward@aol.com Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 23:54:21 EST X-Message-Number: 12 In a message dated 12/9/98 7:30:50 PM Mountain Standard Time, ejanssen@chipsnet.com writes: << I've seen them made out of plastic (metal ones can get dented) on some ultralight applications, but don't know who makes or sells them. >> Ed, you might try some of the UL suppliers such as LEAF or maybe the manufacturer of whatever UL you saw it on. Jim Hayward Rapid City, SD --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com