From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Sunday, December 20, 1998 12:04 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: December 19, 1998 KR-net users group Digest for Saturday, December 19, 1998. 1. ODE to SKYPIG 2. Re: ODE to SKYPIG 3. Re: ODE to SKYPIG 4. Re: ODE to SKYPIG 5. Re: ODE to SKYPIG 6. Re: Flight Test Area 7. Wheel Location 8. Re: ODE to SKYPIG 9. Re: TEst 10. Re: Turbocharging article - NOT! 11. sky pig poetry 12. Re:Builders Work habits 13. engine serial numbers ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: ODE to SKYPIG From: jwnw1@juno.com (John M. Wadleigh) Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 23:34:48 -0700 X-Message-Number: 1 ODE to SKYPIG Skypig, Skypig Please don't die You are the inspiration That we can fly The construction of your ham Shown so clearly on the net Gives us the knowledge, the inspiration to say: "Finish our projects - YOU BET!!" Skypig, Skypig Your bacon will fly! The world will see your snout Bore proudly through the sky And when detractors Make farce of us and say: "Your projects will get into the air- WHEN PIGS FLY!" We can all smile and say: "Than so can I!" John Wadleigh KR2-S Tucson, Az. jwnw1@juno.com ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: ODE to SKYPIG From: "Tom Andersen" Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 08:19:56 -0500 X-Message-Number: 2 Skypig, Skypig You gotta fly You don't wanna sit In some hanger and cry When all the other KR's Get up into the sky. -----Original Message----- From: John M. Wadleigh To: KR-net users group Date: Saturday, December 19, 1998 4:49 AM Subject: [kr-net] ODE to SKYPIG >ODE to SKYPIG > >Skypig, Skypig >Please don't die >You are the inspiration >That we can fly > >The construction of your ham >Shown so clearly on the net >Gives us the knowledge, the inspiration to say: >"Finish our projects - YOU BET!!" > >Skypig, Skypig >Your bacon will fly! >The world will see your snout >Bore proudly through the sky > >And when detractors >Make farce of us and say: >"Your projects will get into the air- >WHEN PIGS FLY!" >We can all smile and say: >"Than so can I!" > > >John Wadleigh >KR2-S >Tucson, Az. >jwnw1@juno.com > > >___________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html >or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: tomkr2s@t-three.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: ODE to SKYPIG From: Krwr1@aol.com Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 08:55:22 EST X-Message-Number: 3 Geeeeeze ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: ODE to SKYPIG From: AeroManx@aol.com Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 09:00:04 EST X-Message-Number: 4 "BRAVO BRAVO" "AUTHOR AUTHOR" ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: ODE to SKYPIG From: Ron Lee Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 07:20:34 -0700 X-Message-Number: 5 SKYPIG, SKYPIG You know you will soon fly This temporary lull will soon pass And you'll be so happy you wanna cry When you are on the runway And you give the Pig the gas. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Flight Test Area From: DClarke351@aol.com Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 10:20:07 EST X-Message-Number: 6 Thanks. Don ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Wheel Location From: "doug peyton" Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 07:53:07 PST X-Message-Number: 7 Dear Mr. Diehl, I received your letter and went out and checked my situation. My wheels were only 3-1/2" ahead of the front surface of the main spar when down and locked, AND NOT 7" FORWARD as you had stated they need to be! I figure I need to mill a 5/32" champfer off one corner of the spring-bar, and 5/32" off the top surfaces of the three bracket castings holding the 1/4" pivot bolts; these are those big castings which are bolted to the front of the main spar. Of course, I'll also have to reconstruct the gear-down locking mechanism and possibly that handle in the middle for pulling down the gear. I got out my plans book and carefully rechecked all the measurements for constructing the landing gear assembly. I soon found my error: I had drilled the 1/4" pivot holes in the small brackets, those bolted to the spring-bar, 1/8" closer to the spring bar than the KR plans called for. It beats me how I could have done that - I always recheck everything several times. Guess a person just can't be too careful. I surely do thank you for your letter. I have been in a funk for a couple of years over this apparent nose-heavy condition, and as much as I worried about it and mulled it over, it never crossed my mind the wheels were not rotating out to the fully extended down position. You've revamped my interest in this project. Guess this incident just goes to show how important it is to have someone look over your shoulder from time to time. Kindest Regards, Doug Peyton, Stuttgart. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: ODE to SKYPIG From: Mike Mims Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 08:23:17 -0800 X-Message-Number: 8 "John M. Wadleigh" wrote: > ODE to SKYPIG Man some of you guys are just too much! :o) That was pretty darn funny by the way. I am heading to work for a few then out to the hanger! Woo Hoo! -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims SP290 (Sky Pig 290) ,..Building Cowling now mailto:mikemims@home.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Aliso Viejo Ca ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: TEst From: MARKETOWL@aol.com Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:59:22 EST X-Message-Number: 9 testing this service ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Turbocharging article - NOT! From: "J.C. MARAIS" Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 22:22:55 +0200 X-Message-Number: 10 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------94291E76ADBFDDBFB4E3A62D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Thanks, I looked there first but no joy. Anybody have other ideas, or have it Hi, Seems that you did not succeed in getting the article. I've attached it, hope you can read it. The article stops in the middle of a sentence with "obstacle clearance". I could not get hold of the rest. And thanks to all members that responded on the motivation topic, although I did not cry for help. You won't believe how much I needed it. (Especially since the company that handled my piggy bank for the engine conversion (EA81T), decided to break ol'piggy open). Quick way to put the whole project behind the stove. Regards. JC --------------94291E76ADBFDDBFB4E3A62D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; name="turbo~1a.txt" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="turbo~1a.txt" Turbo on a VW body background="http://members.aol.com/mikeskr2/backgrnd.gif" This is an article that I dug up on turbocharging a VW. Its old but the info is still good Dan Diehl is probably has more hours in a Turbocharged KR-2 than anyone else at present and is in a position to compare the turbo performance with an engine that is normally aspirated. He wrote this article to help answer the many questions he gets about his Turbo KR-2 performance. Dan has also promised a full "how to" article on installing a turbo on the VW conversions, complete with photos, hopefully in the next Newsletter. TURBOCHARGING--IS IT FOR ME? There has been a lot of talk lately about turbo charging. Many questions have been asked, many answers are given. With over 600 hours on N4DD, over 100 hours since installation of the turbo, I will try to give some comparative comments on performance that may help you decide whether or not you want it. In your decision making process you should ask yourself these questions: 1. What do I want to do with the airplane? Do I want it for a lot of cross country flights or simply fly around the patch on 100-150 mile trips or less? 2 Do I plan to fly at 3000' or 10000. Am I after a high initial climb or high cruise speed? 4. Do I usually take off from my home base at 600' or 5,000'? S. How complex do I want the airplane to get and am I experienced enough for it? And finally, 6. How much money do I want to spend on the power plant? These were the questions that entered my mind in March '79. I had flown the KR-2 for four years with the normally aspirated 2180 cc VW. I became very familiar with its handling characteristics and performance. A number of long distance trips were made as well as many 15 minute short hops to shake off the dust. One hot 105 degree day, I even took the KR-2 up to 16,000' to find cooler air and found that the plane was still climbing at 300' per minute As my barefoot toes became brittle and my teeth began to rattle, I pulled the power from 30 miles out and still crossed the airport at 5500'. Loops and rolls became routine. Diving high speed passes were made for the many spectators. As time went on I found I was going on more and more cross country trips and less and less on the 15 minute hops. It was then I decided to try turbo charging to learn and experience a whole new type of flying. After some research I realized that my engine would require some modifications before installing the turbo. The engine was torn down after nearly 500 hrs. of trouble free service. The welded stroker crank (thought to be better than a cast one as forged cranks were not available in '75 when the engine was built) showed less that 2/10 wear, hearings looked good, case journals in fine shape, pistons and cylinders good. I felt I had a good engine. In putting it back together all I would do would be reduce the compression from 8.5 to 7.0 -1, install stainless exhaust valves, change the cam from .410 lift and 285 duration to .390 lift and 275 duration, install new rings and bearings and I would be in shape. With the engine and turbo installed, I ran into some problems while test running the engine ... primarily with oil in the turbo. Oil kept coming out of the exhaust pipe. After I finally thought I had the problem solved, flight testing showed I did not. More research Because of the low mounting position of the turbo and internal pressures within the engine the oil just would not drain back into the engine. Consumption (or loss) of about one quart per hour was common. I've been told that if I had given the turbo more time to break in it would reduce this amount. After discussing the problem with the guys at Revmaster and Scat I learned that a scavenge pump was necessary to put the oil back in the engine instead of on the bottom of the airplane. The pump solved the problem. About another ten or more hrs. were flown before I headed for Chino. The prop was left as was before the turbo. I found that at altitude I could only run about 20-21" manifold pressure to avoid over revving. While cruising at 12,000' 20" m.p., the crank broke and most know the rest of the story. Obviously at this power and 3300 rpm, the turbo played no part in the fracture. I returned home in a borrowed Cessna 150 with the bad engine in the passenger seat and returned with a spare engine is still running fine. I might add that a chemical oil analysis has been run on each original engine. ENGINE MODIFICATION There have been several excellent books written on building a VW for an airplane. This piece will deal only with that part which concerns the turbo installation. The Volkswagen is a prime candidate for turbo charging The little engine works very well in an aircraft installation and with the high performance designs such as the KRs, high -altitude performance is easily accomplished with the aid of the turbo. Primarily, the engine in its stock form needs little modification. However, whether the engine is a 1600p 1834, or 2180cc we do need to keep in mind several important factors. These are ... (A) compression ratios (B) exhaust temperatures, (C) camshaft selection, and (D) oiling system provisions. (A) Compression ratio... ideally the compression ratio for a turbo charged VW should not exceed 7.5:1. A ratio of 8.O:l or higher will limit boost pressures, increase head temperatures and raise the possibility of predetonation. In short, high compression ratios are bad on a turbo'd engine. My own 2180cc is set at 7.O to 1. The 1600cc is fine in its stock form. The 1834cc will require cutting a com- pression step in the head and some unshrouding around the valve to reduce the ratio. The 2100 and 2200cc will require an increase in deck height either by shaving some off the piston or shimming the cylinders. I personally don't like the shims as this will require additional attention to valve train alignment as well as providing for one more place for oil to leak. Very roughly speaking an 1834cc with .055 deck height will require an .080 to .100 deep flycut an a diameter of 3.375". (Deck height is distance from top of piston to top of cylinder at T.D.C.). This can be done while the head is still in the mill when boring the head for the larger cylinders. By hand grinding the area between the valves and the cylinder seat can be cut back (see drawing). This will increase the combustion chamber as well as providing a better flow to spread the burning fuel out over the top of the piston. As far as the larger engines are concerned, the same head work is applied but the deck height must be increased. The 2180cc will have a standard deck height of about .055 using the pistons designed for the 82mm stroke, This engine will require an additional .100 deck height to get the compression down to 7.O to 1. A shim of .100 can be used but this moves the combustion very far down into the cylinder. Cylinder warping is common. Longer push rods will also be required to keep the valve train in alignment. I prefer cutting the piston, This is a simple matter in the lathe. On my own engine, I made one cut of .050 straight across the top of the piston. Then another cut of .070 was made on a diameter of 4.000". This keeps the valve train in its stock form. Combustion is kept in the upper part of the cylinder and piston weight is reduced to relieve some of the pressure on the rod bearings. It should be pointed out that the pistons now need to be balanced. I recommend the use of the NPR brand cylinders as they have plenty of meat in the top of the piston to do this cuttings I also strongly recommend the use of the aluminum finned cylinders. These have a cast in steel sleeve which seems to wear better than the cast iron. With the aluminum dissipating the heat, the head then will run about 60 0 to 90 0 cooler per given power setting. The biggest advantage is the 11 lb. per set weight savings. It should also be made clear that all cylinder heads should be cc'd before installation. The chart from NPR included with each set of cylinders will help you decide what you need to do to the head to get the ratio you desire. (B) Exhaust temperature ......one sure thing about turbo charging is that the exhaust temperatures will be higher than without one. The non-turbo will run about 1100-1200 at cruise and the turbo'd engine will reach 1450 at 35 in. mp on take off. This increase in temperature can cause problems. The 100 octane av-gas or premium car gas will help the detonation problem and help to cool the tamp a bit. The main problem at this point however, is the weak link in the VW. It seems that the stock VW has a tendency to pop the head off the no. 3 valve around 50,000 to 60,000 miles. If you increase the exhaust tamp you will shorten this time. We all know the terrible destruction that a valve will do to an engine when it's bouncing around an top of a piston. The installation of stainless steel valves will greatly reduce the chance of this happening. Manley makes a good valve for about $40. per set. These are one piece and will hold up very well to the heat. Valve adjustment every 25 hrs. with the oil change is a must. I have found that in this 25 hr running time the exhaust valves will usually tighten up a bit. This is due to the valve seating itself deeper into the head. The intakes will usually get looser. I set all my valves at .006". (C) Camshaft selection..... this is a subject which draws a great number of differing ideas and opinions. To begin, we should realize that the stock VW is designed to produce optimum torque and power between 3,000 and 4,000 RPM. This is precisely the range we will run in our aircraft. Obviously one would assume that this would be the ideal camshaft. This is where the subject gets touchy. The stock camshaft was designed for the 1600cc engine. It works well with this engine in the car and aircraft. However, as the engine becomes larger with the installation of big bore cylinders or longer stroke crank shaft, we find that the engine will have a hard time getting the air it needs through the stock size valves to realize full benefit from the larger engine. Especially in the case of the bigger engines, I recommend a special cam whether the engine is turbo'd or not. The main thing to remember here is to be sure not to overdo a good thing. Cams with more than 285 duration and over .410" lift are not recommended as they will reduce torque below 4,000 RPM. These are commonly referred to as "Hot Rod Cams". I recommend a cam selection in the range of 270" to 285" duration and .390"-.410" lift. This will give good torque and horsepower for engines 1600cc and up. I personally installed a cam made by Scat of 275" duration and .385" lift. (D) Oiling system provisions.....there are many different ways to run the oil on the Volkswagen engine. It seems everybody and his brother has a "better way" to do it. In the case of the turbocharged VWs I have found only one way to do it safely and simply. To begin, one thing the VW needs is an oil separator or "puke box" on the crankcase ventilation system. The 1600cc engine can get along without it, but as the engine gets bigger, the volume of air needing to escape from the crankcase increases bringing with it more oil. The 1834 engine can sometimes get by but the 2100 and 2200cc engine definitely requires one. Often you have seen a VW powered airplane with oil all over the bottom of the plane and cowl. This is usually due to internal pressures within the engine blowing the oil out the breather hub. This is also due to crankcase pressures. (It can also be due to an improper fit of the prop hub.) Most 1600's can get by with only one breather tube 1/2" in diameter exiting the case from the plate covering the generator mount. I have found this to be inadequate for 1834cc and larger engines. One more vent is required. I don't recommend venting from this area as the oil concentration is high in the crankcase. I prefer a I" line from each of the valve covers. These lines can be hooked to a tubing fitting tapped into the top center of each cover. From here the lines run to the separator (mounted on the firewall). The separator has two side ports which allow for these lines. From the bottom of the separator is another outlet. This is for the return line to the engine BUMP. We must tap the case with a 3/8" N.P.T. for this con-nection. I put mine in the bottom right side (of the airplane) under the number 3 cylinder. This should be below the oil level. Air exits the separator via the top through an air filter. Thus oil is retained and air pressure released. The separator I use is made by K & N Filters, SCAT Ent. The other two holes to be placed in the sump section are for the oil temperature sending unit and the oil return line from the turbo scavenge pump. The oil tamp sending unit can be mounted on either side in the oil sump. Mine are 1/8" pipe taps on the left side to the rear. The scavenge pump return line is a 3/8" N.P.T. to the front of the engine sump. The right side, under the no. 4 cylinder is most convenient and will allow the shortest line from the pump to the case sump. Installation of the scavenge pump will be discussed later. The main oil galley should be drilled and tapped with a 3/8" N.P.TO This galley has an expansion plug at both ends. The front needs to be tapped so as to receive the return line from the oil cooler. This sands the oil directly to the bearings. The rear of this galley (flywheel end) should be tapped on all engines whether turbo'd or not, if big bore cylinders are used. This, in my opinion, is one of the most important areas for attention on the larger engines. The reason is this, when the case is bored out for the big jugs, the case becomes very thin, about 1/8", behind the number 3 cylinder. If the older style 10mm head studs are used, they can pull the case so as to crack it in this area. As the crack develops, at first there is only a small oil see page under the back of the engine. If the crack is allowed to develops further, it will run into the oil galley, letting it expand, thus allowing the plug to pop out. An immediate loss of total engine lubrication happens and the engine will seize. Now if a threaded plug is installed, even though the crack runs into the galley, the plug will stay in place, giving you time to notice the problem and get it fixed The use of the smaller spring steel head. studs, 8 mm in diameter and sinking the top stud into the case 1 1/8" an the back cylinder, will help relieve this problem. In summary, the areas needing to be drilled and tapped are a 3/8" N.P.T. in the top of each valve cover, a 3/8" N.P.T. at the front and rear in the engine sump on the right' side, and whatever is required for the oil temp sander you use. The two holes in the top of the case get 1/4" N.P.T. Each end of the main oil galley gets a 3/8" N.P.T. The area on top of the Case where the original oil cooler was mounted will be covered by the intake system. I recommend drilling and tapping the holes with a 1/49' N.P.T. so they can be plugged A new cooler system will be discussed later. It should be noted that my airspeed has been found to be slow. So figures should be used for comparison only and not for actual speed. Note the decrease in climb at lower altitude. This is due to the much greater pitch in the crop for high altitude performance. Also, these figures are for 30mm.. Similar climb rates are possible for VERY SHORT duration with 35-40" mp By overboosting, the engine will put out more power than the non-turbo. These burst should be limited to emergency obstacle clearance only for about 15 seconds maximum. Climb from Colorado Springs or Albuquerque is far better with the turbo. Note the difference between cruise at 3000' and 10000' and also the RPM. The higher pitch prop comes in handy up high. The difference in the prop setting is at full throttle non-turbo static RPM is 3000, at 30"m.p. with turbo static RPM is 2750. It was also found that a 1" shorter prop on the turbo version let me increase the pitch much higher. In summary I would have to say that the turbo has taken some of the fun from the low altitude loops and rolls and 15 minute hops to the loca grass strip but since I don't do this much anymore the great performance increase at cruise has really been appreciated on the long trips to Oshkosh, Tennessee, Indiana, Colorado, south Texas, Nebraska, etc. Actual cost of the turbo installation will run around $500-600 depending on your cost of the plating on the pipes and type of oil lines used on the turbo and scavenge pump. I hope these comments will interest you and draw to your attention the advantages and disadvantages of the turbo. Please feel free to call or write if I can answer any more of your questions. Dan Diehl, 4132 E. 72nd St. Tulsa OK 74136 (918)492-5111. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Part Two This is part II of Dan Diehl's installation manual for the R/R turbo-charger kit. This is probably not the only way to install the turbo but it is one way that works. II. THE PLUMBING KIT The plumbing kit as supplied by Rand/Rohiiison is a masterpiece of bent tubes welded together and to flanges for mounting and hook-up. However, there are several areas which require some attention before trouble free service can be attained. First, all welds should be inspected and if any "weld berries", "dingle berries", etc. are on the inside at the flange area, they should be ground out with a small die grinder. These welds or rough areas will restrict the flow of air through the pipes. Any sharp edges should be removed from the flanges also. I have found in many cases that the tube is not in contact with the inside of the flange except where welded. These should be ball peened against the flange. Not only will this restrict the flow of air, but more importantly, it will hold heat. In time this would burn out on the exhaust side resulliriin ultimate destruction of the system. Once flanges are filed flat, a trial assembly should be made. Often the nuts cannot be bolted tightly as they will interfere with the weld on the flanges. Grind the weld for clearance. Many times the intake tube connecting to the outlet side of the turbo needs to be cut to fit. Also, at this time you should check for clearance on the cowling. I have found that modifying the exhaust tube on the no. 2 cylinder (front left) will enable you to fit the cowl much tighter. A provision should be made for the exhaust temperature probe. I recommend putting the probe just after the union of the pipes before entering the exhaust side of the turbo. This will give an average temperature for all cylinders. Do not put the probe after the turbo as a low reading would occur. After all fit-up is complete I would strongly recommend a plating of electrolelnickel, then heat treatment to prevent hydrogen brittleness. If the tubes are not plated, the exhaust section will soon rust out and just plain look bad. I have found the electroless nickel is not so subject to hydrogen brittleness as chrome or other materials and it will stand up to the heat very well. You will find that the intake section will remain shiny almost as though chromed and the exhaust section will turn dark gray. One other thing never mentioned is the fact that the exhaust outlet from the turbo will not clear the engine cowling. The fix for this is to remove the clamp holding the two halves of the turbo together, put the exhaust section in the milling machine and remove .500" from the face the exhaust pipe bolts on to. An alternate method is to tip the section so more is taken off the bottom. This allows the pipe to be bolted on at an angle that moves the bottom of the pipe towards the center of the plane, away from the cowling. The three mounting holes are drilled deeply enough but a plug or bottom tap must be run in to deepen the threads. Studs should be installed in this section with fine threads brass nut used. Under NO circumstances should bolts be used here as they will either vibrate out or rust in so that their removal may twist them off. Also, removal of the material here will result in the reduction of turbo weight by about one pound. INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR THE RAND TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM FOR THE VW ENGINE BY DAN DIEHL III. Oiling System and Scavenge Pump The oiling system for the turbo'd engine has drawn a larger range of opinions than any other area of the installation. I have tried most of the methods and found only one to work satisfactorily. It will be discussed here. The heart of the system is a modified dry sump pump built by Scat Enterprises. It is a two stage pump with two completely isolated sets of years. In its original form, the first stage was designed to pump the oil out of the engine and into a holding tank The second stage or section was to carry the oil out of the holding tank to the cooler and bearings. The first section will be used to pump oil out of the sump through the cooler, and then to the bearings. This puts cooled oil to the bearings. The second section will suck the oil from the turbo and put it back into the engine sump. I have found through personal experience that all of the turbo oil will not gravity feed back to the engine sump. Although most of the oil does get back where it belongs, a small portion will be blown through the seals in the turbo, seeping into the intake and exhaust sections of the turbo. It is common to lose one quart of oil in 3 hrs. Operators of engines not equipped with a scavenge pump should pay very careful attention to oil level and carry a wiping rag and extra quart of oil on any extended trip. I have found that through the use of the scavenge pump and oil breather separator that no oil is needed to be added an my own 2200cc engine between its 25 hr. oil changes. I hope this clarifies the need for the scavenge pumps To modify the pump, it must first be disassembled. Next, the port designed to run oil to the hearings must be plugged with a 1/4" pipe plug. Once screwed in tightly, grind it off flush with the pump body. Now, a new outlet must be put in the second stage. Place this hole so that it intersects the outlet side of the second stage pump body. A 3/8" pipe tap is recommended here. The outside ports are tapped for an S.A.E. straight "O"-ring thread. This fitting is often hard to find. By running a 3/8" pipe tap into the ports it will just clean up the threads and open them up a bit so a 3/8" pipe fitting can be installed. Once all ports are cleaned and the gears lubricated with 50 wt. oil, the pump can be installed on the engine. The next stop is to run the oil lines assuming that the turbo charger, intake and exhaust system is also bolted on. First hook up the turbo. A 1/8" "T" fitting is screwed into the engine case in the hole provided for the oil pressure sensor. The sensor is screwed into one of the holes and a 1/8" I.D. line into the other. This line will run to the top of the turbo. From the bottom of the turbo, make a plate, (see drawing) for the hose connection. At least a 3/8" I.D. line is needed from the turbo. This line will run to the outside port on the left side of the second stage pump. From the outlet side just drilled and tapped, run a 3/8" line to the tapped hole on the lower right front side of the engine sump. This puts the oil from the turbo back into the sump. If you are wondering why only a 1/8" line into the turbo and 3/8" to 1/2" out, remember nearly any pressure you want can be run on the pressure side of a hydraulic pump but the best suction pump will only pull a vacuum of about 14 pounds at ideal conditions. The VW pump will produce between 25 and 45 pound at cruise so the 1/8" line is used to limit the amount of oil going to the turbo. Once the oil gets into the turbo it is 0 cooling the bearings, thus in carrying away the heat it may reach a temperature of 500 turning into a milky foam. This foam does not flow as easily as it would in its liquid state and therefore is sucked out by the scavenge pump. Thus the oil in this less than ideal condition needs the larger line for proper flow. The next step is the engine oil system. The primary or first stage of the pump will suck the oil from the engine sump in the same manner as the stock pump. From here it is discharged through the outlet side of the pump on the right side., The oil is routed through a 3/8" I.D. line to the oil cooler. I find the stock type III VW cooler to be very effective. A common remote filter cooler adapter will bolt to the cooler to allow for the 3/8" hose fittings. From the cooler the oil is routed to the main oil gallery that has already been drilled & tapped for this purpose. Now cool oil is being sent directly to the engine bearings. Oiling System and Scavenge Pump (cont.) Since the two holes have been plugged on top of the case to give clearance and simplicity to the turbo system, the pressure release piston at the front end of the engine must be modified. To do this, simply leave out the spring. Place the piston directly on the screw plug and re-install. This allows oil entering the main oil galley to be directed to the bearings without being sent up to the old cooler mounting area, ... a very simple modification. Note ... This can be done on the later model engine cases with dual bypass valves only. If the older style case is used on your engine, the line from the pump will run directly to the main galley and an adapter is bolted on at the standard cooler mounting position and lines run from here to the cooler and back. In summary, run all lines 3/8" or 1/2" I.D. except the 1/8" line to the turbo. Since temperature may run high, I would recommend the steel braided teflon oil lines. These are expensive, around $80 for an engine complete, but they will hold up well and look professional. The oil breather lines can be neoprene. INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR THE RAND TURBOCHARGER SYSTEM FOR THE VW ENGINE IV. INSTRUMENTATION by DAN DIEHL About the only three instruments required that are not on a non-turbo'd engine are exhaust gas temperature, manifold pressure gauge, and cylinder head temperature. The manifold pressure gauge should have a range of about 20" to 35"or 40". Turbo boost gauges will not work as they are non compensating for altitude. They work fine on a boat or car but are useless on an aircraft. The hook-up for this instrument should be in the large tube between the turbo and the 4 way split to each cylinder. The E.G.T. is used for careful monitoring of the exhaust temp and should be watched while long climb outs and high power settings are being made. Naturally the E.C.T. helps in obtaining proper mixture settings. The sander location has been discussed earlier but the most effective location is between the 4 pipe union and the turbo. The cylinder head temperature is important to avoid excessive head temps that lead to detonation and warpage of the head itself. The standard hook-up is for the thermocouple sending unit to be installed under the #3 cylinder spark plug (right rear). This is the hottest running cylinder and can be used as an indicator of excessive heat. One other thing that is nice is a primer. While starting the engine has to pull the fuel air mixture a long way up the intake tube, through the turbo, and from the turbo to the cylinders. The primer discharge nozzle is placed in the center of the four way split in the intake system. From here it can vaporize and each cylinder draws from this area. One squirt is all that is needed to get the engine started. V. OPERATION AND LIMITATIONS he Rajay turbo charger is a very simple to operate and a very low maintenance piece of equipment. However, there are several things to keep in mind while operating a turbccharged VW engine. The first phase of operation is engine start up. This is easily accomplished with the use of the primer and electric start. The important thing is to remember here is that the oil is thick when it is cold. So one should not exceed a fast idle 0 for at least one minute. Use only that RPM which is required for taxiing until 140 oil temp is reached At this point we are doing the run up. I prefer to start my take off roll while the oil is at 140 0 so, as high power and climb increase the oil temp, it gives me a longer time before near redline temperatures are reached. The second phase is to carefully monitor manifold pressure. This system is not equipped with a wastegate. The natural tendency to firewall the throttle for take-off must be avoided. A full throttle setting would result in a manifold pressure of around 70" to 80" and would destroy the engine in seconds. For take-off I recommend 32"-34" m.p. This will give a good climb rate and short ground roll. In an emergency where obstacle clearance --------------94291E76ADBFDDBFB4E3A62D-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: sky pig poetry From: "Gerald & Sharon" Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 20:26:28 -0500 X-Message-Number: 11 pretty funny,but i hope you guys build airplanes better than you write poems. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re:Builders Work habits From: Elttes@aol.com Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 22:31:13 EST X-Message-Number: 12 I had the opposite experience regarding work habits. I had my KR2 in my garage for several years and tended to waste a lot of time just looking at it. I now have it in a hangar, and although it takes a while to get there, having it in the hangar forces me to be more disciplined. I now plan all the work to be accomplished beforehand and and I seem to be progressing at a more steady pace. Its also been good for my moral just being at the airport where others are working on thier projects, and best of all the occasional offer to go flying. Its all personal preference, I suppose. Rick Settle ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: engine serial numbers From: "John Davison" Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 23:04:56 PST X-Message-Number: 13 Hello KR-net, I have found out what all the production serial number mean. they are as follows: Production date Displacement Engine Code Horsepower 12/53 thru 7/60 1200 cc 1,2,3 36 8/60 thru 7/65 1200 cc 5,6,7,8,9 40 8/65 thru 7/66 1300 cc FO 50 8/66 thru 7/67 1500 cc HO 53 8/67 thru 7/69 1500 cc H5 53 8/69 thru 7/70 1600 cc B 57 8/70 thru 9/71 1600 cc * AE 60 from 8/71 Calif. only 1600 cc * AH 60 from 10/72 1600 cc * AK 46 from 12/74 fuel-inj. 1600 cc * AF,AJ,AS 48 Hope these help you builders. note * Dual Port Version John Davison :^) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com