From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 12:21 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: April 26, 1999 KR-net users group Digest for Monday, April 26, 1999. 1. Re: Elevator Hinges 2. Re: Elevator Hinges 3. re: Integrated Carb and Cabin Heat Manifold 4. Re: Airfoils 5. Re: KR builders 6. Re:fuel tank 7. Canopy (bubble) Fabrication 8. Re:fuel tank 9. Re:fuel tank 10. Re:fuel tank ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Elevator Hinges From: "Richard Parker" Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 04:51:11 PDT X-Message-Number: 1 Deabn you wrote "As long as you use the same parts - the hinge point should always be at the same point between the spars, but if you're off a little bit (overtightening the bolts, or inadvertently angling something) the REB will compensate" This may be a little misleading and oversimplified. If the the rod end bearings arent all on the same horizontal and vertical plane (imagine a rod going through all of them) you are going to get a different pivot point for each one which may result in the spar flexing and twisting. The bearing action of the rod end minimizes the friction but wont compensate for poor spar mounting hole placement. Rich Parker richontheroad@hotmail.com http://top.monad.net/~theparkers/kr.htm Jaffrey, NH Helicopters dont fly. They are so ugly the earth repels them! >From: "Dean Collette" >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" >To: "KR-net users group" >Subject: [kr-net] Elevator Hinges >Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 12:07:05 -0500 > >Netters, >I never liked the hinges that the plans describe, and judging by all that >has been written about the hinges, a lot of people agree with me. So after >changing things, I built my tail - we'll just call that one a learning >experience. I am now in the process of re-building the tail, and I have >figured out a different way to do the hinges. If you would like to see more >about these go to http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/hinges.htm > >They are a little more expensive then your standard KR hinges, but, Oh, the >smooth - self-adjusting action! And the nice thing is - they are light >weight, and you don't have to make any parts - all out of it is out of the >catalog. > >Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin >mailto:drdean@execpc.com >Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: richontheroad@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net- 17615H@telelists.com > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Elevator Hinges From: "Dean Collette" Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 07:56:52 -0500 X-Message-Number: 2 Rich, Yes, but I was assuming that the builder could manage to get the hole on the centerline. When I was talking about the differences in tightening the bolts or slight angulation, I was looking at the hinge point shifting by about 0.008 - 0.02". I thought that placing the hole in the right spot could go without mentioning, but maybe not, eh? Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:drdean@execpc.com Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm -----Original Message----- From: Richard Parker To: KR-net users group Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 6:50 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Elevator Hinges >Deabn you wrote "As long as you use the same parts - the hinge point >should always be at the same point between the spars, but if you're >off a little bit (overtightening the bolts, or inadvertently angling >something) the REB will compensate" > >This may be a little misleading and oversimplified. If the the rod >end bearings arent all on the same horizontal and vertical plane >(imagine a rod going through all of them) you are going to get a >different pivot point for each one which may result in the spar >flexing and twisting. The bearing action of the rod end minimizes the >friction but wont compensate for poor spar mounting hole placement. > >Rich Parker >richontheroad@hotmail.com >http://top.monad.net/~theparkers/kr.htm >Jaffrey, NH > >Helicopters dont fly. They are so ugly the earth repels them! > >>From: "Dean Collette" >>Reply-To: "KR-net users group" >>To: "KR-net users group" >>Subject: [kr-net] Elevator Hinges >>Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 12:07:05 -0500 >> >>Netters, >>I never liked the hinges that the plans describe, and judging by all >that >>has been written about the hinges, a lot of people agree with me. So >after >>changing things, I built my tail - we'll just call that one a >learning >>experience. I am now in the process of re-building the tail, and I >have >>figured out a different way to do the hinges. If you would like to >see more >>about these go to http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/hinges.htm >> >>They are a little more expensive then your standard KR hinges, but, >Oh, the >>smooth - self-adjusting action! And the nice thing is - they are >light >>weight, and you don't have to make any parts - all out of it is out >of the >>catalog. >> >>Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin >>mailto:drdean@execpc.com >>Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm >> >> >>--- >>You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: richontheroad@hotmail.com >>To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net- >17615H@telelists.com >> > > > > > >_______________________________________________________________ >Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: drdean@execpc.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: re: Integrated Carb and Cabin Heat Manifold From: Kimball Anderson Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 10:19:30 -0400 X-Message-Number: 3 Hi, everyone. Ron Eason's Integrated "Carb and Cabin Heat Manifold" drawings are now posted to the Manual/FAQ web site at http://www.evansville.net/~boeing/project_viking They're located under the "Powerplants and Fuel Systems" heading. Kimball Anderson isleno@hargray.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Airfoils From: "Rex Ellington" Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 10:12:45 CST X-Message-Number: 4 > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 23:52:45 -0500 > From: Glaeser <2501@oz.sunflower.org> > To: "KR-net users group" > Subject: [kr-net] Re: Airfoils > > JKM001@aol.com wrote: > > > Hi guys, > > > I was wondering if any of you know whicj airfoil the Taylorcraft uses. Any help would be appreciated.>>> > > G'Morning All Just got back from a week in Atlanta meeting an old British friend. He was a Baracuda and Spit pilot. Logic says we won't see each other again. Anyway, I took the time to check out the primary reference book on T-Craft. The '30s and 40s versions used the 23012 airfoil. Cubs used the Clark Y. On my project: This week I plan to get the twin stick group installed in my cockpit mockup and get some pictures. My width is 42 in. at the shoulders and the sides are vertical. This has permitted me to change the airleron cable routing and run-around to get around the the jury-rig shown in the newsletter issue passed out at the Perry Gathering, September last. I will take some pictures and prepare a writeup if someone will offer to get them on a home page or the splinter group, with which I am not acquainted yet. I'm thirsty for information from Sun/fun, especially on the 16 & 18 % airfoils and flight tests. Everything does affect everything else, and so it goes for Diehl gear mounting on the proposed front spar. Wouldn't it work to install two blocks, perhaps hour-glass shaped, between the spar caps at the gear location to accept the gear mounting plate bolts, and their load ?? Rex Ellington Norman OK Rex T. Ellington ellingto@gslan.offsys.ou.edu ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR builders From: foster schuren Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 13:42:04 -0400 X-Message-Number: 5 TO: Whom-ever was looking for Ed Sterba Aircraft Propellers His phone number is: 1-941-778-3103. Address: 513 68th Street., Holmes Beach, Florida 34217. Foster KR-2 driver ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re:fuel tank From: William Zorc <73101.157@compuserve.com> Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:10:36 -0400 X-Message-Number: 6 It is amazing that your fuel tank withstood the 90 psi without damage!!! It just goes to show that these planes are overbuilt. You might try a lower pressure to the tank (10 to 20 psi) , while taking a long drill bit and hand-turning it in the vent. This will allow whatever is clogging the line to be blown out the vent when the drill bit breaks through, instead of being pushed into the fuel tank. I've done something similar while reaming valve guides on certified aircraft engines, without removing the cylinder. Good Luck! Bill Zorc ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Canopy (bubble) Fabrication From: Kimball Anderson Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:48:29 -0400 X-Message-Number: 7 Hello, everybody. Several weeks ago Eduardo Iglesias mentioned that he had an article from Soaring Magazine that outlined a method for fabricating a canopy -- the actual bubble part, that is. Several people requested a copy of the article, and Eduardo has OCR'ed it and emailed it up from Argentina. I've posted it on my local ISP's server, because I'm not sure about all the legalities of posting something from a commercial publication to the Online Manual/FAQ. Anyway, for those who want to take a look at it, point your browser to http://www.hargray.com/~isleno/canopy.html and check it out. Kimball Anderson isleno@hargray.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re:fuel tank From: "R.W. Moore" Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:03:44 -0400 X-Message-Number: 8 The 90 LBS was not on the tank, only on the ram air vent pipe. I going to try a speedamiter cable tomorrow. I am letting the tube soak with carb cleaner tonight. It looks like that I am going to have to cut the tank out of the wing. I sure hate to do it. Does anyone have about 3-5 foot of copper foil that is used on the inbeded antennas. I will have to have some to repair my antenna when I cut the skin to get to the tank. I will be glad to pay for it. Sincerely, R. W. Moore -----Original Message----- From: William Zorc <73101.157@compuserve.com> To: KR-net users group Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 10:16 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re:fuel tank >It is amazing that your fuel tank withstood the 90 psi without damage!!! It >just goes to show that these planes are overbuilt. You might try a lower >pressure to the tank (10 to 20 psi) , while taking a long drill bit and >hand-turning it in the vent. This will allow whatever is clogging the line >to be blown out the vent when the drill bit breaks through, instead of >being pushed into the fuel tank. I've done something similar while reaming >valve guides on certified aircraft engines, without removing the cylinder. > Good Luck! > >Bill Zorc > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rwmoore@alltel.net >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re:fuel tank From: Mike Mims Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:13:17 -0700 X-Message-Number: 9 "R.W. Moore" wrote: > > The 90 LBS was not on the tank, only on the ram air vent pipe. I going to try a speedamiter cable tomorrow. I am letting the tube soak with carb cleaner tonight. It looks like that I am going to have to cut the tank out of the wing. I sure hate to do it.>>> Dude your losing me on the need to "cut the tank out of the wing". Why in the world would you do that? Why couldn't you just use a long drill bit and drill it out or if need be install another vent? You could always cut the existing vent off with the bottom of the wing and flox it shut. Then install a new vent in a slightly oversize hole with lots of flox (mixed thick). Put it somewhere close to the fuel filler so you can use a straw or something to apply some raw resin around the base of the vent to help fuel proof it. Heck if that doesn't work cut a small access hole in the top of the tank so you can get your hand inside if you have too. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Ailerons almost done! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ Aliso Viejo CA Give Blood, Play Hockey! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re:fuel tank From: "Martin Mulvey" Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:38:22 -0700 X-Message-Number: 10 Hi there, Mike is right. His idea is not only simple but the best way to effect the repair. Also, the antenna strip would not be damaged a as a result. BRGDS Marty ----- Original Message ----- From: R.W. Moore To: KR-net users group Sent: 26 April, 1999 20:03 Subject: [kr-net] Re:fuel tank > The 90 LBS was not on the tank, only on the ram air vent pipe. I going to > try a speedamiter cable tomorrow. I am letting the tube soak with carb > cleaner tonight. It looks like that I am going to have to cut the tank out > of the wing. I sure hate to do it. > > Does anyone have about 3-5 foot of copper foil that is used on the inbeded > antennas. I will have to have some to repair my antenna when I cut the skin > to get to the tank. I will be glad to pay for it. > Sincerely, > R. W. Moore > -----Original Message----- > From: William Zorc <73101.157@compuserve.com> > To: KR-net users group > Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 10:16 PM > Subject: [kr-net] Re:fuel tank > > > >It is amazing that your fuel tank withstood the 90 psi without damage!!! It > >just goes to show that these planes are overbuilt. You might try a lower > >pressure to the tank (10 to 20 psi) , while taking a long drill bit and > >hand-turning it in the vent. This will allow whatever is clogging the line > >to be blown out the vent when the drill bit breaks through, instead of > >being pushed into the fuel tank. I've done something similar while reaming > >valve guides on certified aircraft engines, without removing the cylinder. > > Good Luck! > > > >Bill Zorc > > > >--- > >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rwmoore@alltel.net > >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > > > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kr2smm@email.msn.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com