From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Saturday, August 07, 1999 12:16 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: August 06, 1999 KR-net users group Digest for Friday, August 06, 1999. 1. Re: Question RE: New Wing 2. Re: timing 3. Re: Question RE: New Wing 4. Re: Superfil 5. Friday comments/website update 6. Re: kr2-s for sale 7. Re: Superfil 8. Re: Ross aileron cutout 9. Re: timing 10. Re: throw over yoke 11. Re: Friday comments/website update 12. oshkosh 13. Re: kr2-s for sale 14. Re: kr2-s for sale 15. Re: timing 16. Re: Superfil 17. Re: kr2-s for sale 18. Re: KR2 project weight 19. Re: Superfil 20. Re: timing 21. Eng. timing 22. 2180 Less Reliable? 23. Re: Melting Lead Aileron Counterweights... 24. Re: 2180 Less Reliable? 25. Re: 2180 Less Reliable? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Question RE: New Wing From: "Stefan B." Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 11:16:11 +0100 X-Message-Number: 1 I suppose that the AS504x series of airfoils would have about the same performance as the NLF(1)-0115 airfoils as far as the laminar flow separation is concerned. According to Dr. Selig's article "Natural Laminar Flow Airfoils for GA use" (not sure?), the lift loss due to the airflow separation at the leading edge is 11% (compared to the turbulent NACA23012 - 14%). If you are interested I could look for the exact reference at home. Stefan. mailto:Stefan.Balatchev@wanadoo.fr MARVIN MCCOY wrote: > Reading the specs of the new wing it sounds like the performance will > be superior to the old wing. Does anyone have any idea how it will > perform if it is not made exactly to specs. What effect will rain and > bugs have on it. Some laminar flow wings do very poorly if they are not > made just perfect. Is this something that a home builder will need to > be very exact with its construction. The old wing is very foregiving in > this way. > > Marivn McCoy > Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field > ------------- > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: stefan.balatchev@wanadoo.fr > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: timing From: "Mark Langford" Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 07:17:07 -0500 X-Message-Number: 2 > what the timing on a VW Figure out where TDC is for number 1 using a screwdriver in the spark plug hole or something and mark the prop hub at the case half seam. Then use an "advancing" timing light set to 28 degrees to line the mark up with the case seam at 2500 RPM or so (wherever all of the advance is "in". This way it doesn't matter what kind of distributor or other iginition you have. You'll have 28 degrees where you want it, at the top end. I guess if you're using a mag, you'd want to set it statically at 28, but I'm no expert on mags. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Question RE: New Wing From: "Mark Langford" Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 07:23:58 -0500 X-Message-Number: 3 Marvin McCoy wrote > be superior to the old wing. Does anyone have any idea how it will > perform if it is not made exactly to specs. These airfoils are almost oblivious to the effects of bugs and rain. They tested them with trip strips to trip the flow and see what happened, and the effects were minimal. It was one of the design goals. There are more details on the web pages mentioned earlier. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Superfil From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 08:50:18 -0400 X-Message-Number: 4 I have also been using Super-Fil on my 2s prodject, it works ok, but I could have accomplished the same thing with Aerolite Poxy. Only problem with Aero is that the white half of the 2 part system gets these hard round balls if it sets around to long in the humidity, if that happens then heave ho. Kenny. On Thu, 5 Aug 1999 21:54:17 -0700 "Dean Selby" writes: >I ordered 2 kits from AS and when I received it the hardner had >separated. >I didn't think much about it just stirred it and used it. A week >later it >was still not hard! Opened the second kit and tried it; It hardened >but you >could dig the stuff out with your nail. I throwed it in the garbage >and >used evercoat. Not trying to slam anyone's product just my 2 cents. > >Dean Selby >deans@usit.net] > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: RFG842@aol.com >To: KR-net users group >Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 3:49 PM >Subject: [kr-net] Superfil > > >>Mike >> >>In a previous post you mentioned a problem with heat & Superfil and >said >that >>you would report on results later. I must have missed the later. >> >>Left my Superfil in the shop for 2 days, temp 105 to 107. Hardner >seperated >>and smelled of amonia. Remixed it and first batch sanded like rubber >after >>two days. Thought I had mixed it wrong but same thing in next two >batches. >>Still have it but not useing it. >> >>Were your results the same??? >> >>Tnks, Bob >> >>--- >>You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: deans@usit.net >>To unsubscribe send a blank email to >leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com >> >> > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: klw1953@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Friday comments/website update From: "Oscar Zuniga" Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 06:02:26 PDT X-Message-Number: 5 Hello, Netters If you haven't yet availed yourself of the great ideas and work that Don Reid has done, by all means go look at his webpage at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm and take it in. There are lots of nuggets in there. Several other people on other lists have brought up the topic of shrouding the engine for pressure cooling, rather than baffling the entire cowl enclosure, and Don has some good photos of his setup on that. Engineers Rule! As for Ross' comments about the KRNet/Lyris "action phrases", we can always make one of the phrases "whine", and then whenever Randy 'Whinemeister' Stein mentions the annual $10 support for KRNet admin expenses, Lyris can send all subscribers a little reminder which includes the mailing address and payment instructions ;o) I guess Ross' supply of chemicals for his hot tub is getting low, so it must be time to ante up for the year Seriously, it will be the best $10 you will spend this year. Almost any one day's KRNet posts has at least one item worth the $10. And for anybody interested in progress on my M-19 "KR Construction Trainer", I just updated my own little webpage at http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Dropzone/5610/update.html Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Dropzone/5610/index.html _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr2-s for sale From: DPowell126@aol.com Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 09:16:50 EDT X-Message-Number: 6 I want to make sure I understand your ad. Are all instruments in or does it need all instruments? What instruments are they? What is a soob with redrive? Any electronics? Where is the airplane and can it be seen? Do you have photos of construction. Do you have present photos you could send? S is longer version. I'm 6'3" do you think I will fit? Is it retract or fixed? Vacuum pump? Any info you can supply will be helpful. Don ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Superfil From: Ross Youngblood Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 08:17:00 -0700 X-Message-Number: 7 The Urea (ammonia) smell in the hardners is normal. I got a book on plastics, and it is a partial breakdown or reaction to contact with air I think. This smell is normal to a certain degree, but I got the impression that after venting it should dissapate. (This was a couple of years ago when I was trying to find out how epoxies are made... our friend the hydrocarbon...). The balling I have encountered with the 50/50 mix of Hexcel structural adhesive (when mixed improperly), and also with micro if I am in too much of a hurry to sand. If it balls up, I just let it cure for a longer period (usually another day). I found that bondo is really superior in terms of time spent waiting to sand... 20 minutes for bondo. But you pay in weight. Thats why I only bondoed my cowling. -- Ross Ed Janssen wrote: > > A friend of mine recently mixed it wrong - 1:1 instead of 2:1- and it > sanded like rubber as well . It rolled up when sanding. We also had over > 100 deg. heat, so don't know for sure the cause. > > Ed J > > >> In a previous post you mentioned a problem with heat & Superfil and said > that > >> Left my Superfil in the shop for 2 days, temp 105 to 107. Hardner > seperated > >> and smelled of amonia. Remixed it and first batch sanded like rubber > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Ross aileron cutout From: Ross Youngblood Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 08:26:31 -0700 X-Message-Number: 8 WA7YXF@aol.com wrote: > > Sorry Ross looks like our paths won't be crossing at this time. I leave the > 27th of this month for Alaska and will be gone for several months.. Would > have been wonderful to had you visit my shop. I have never been able to have > anyone who has built a KR visit and look over my work or discuss my ideas. I > was lucky enough to be able to devote 3 months full time on my plane this > summer while the warm weather was here and made great progress.. The book > says to cut out the ailerons, to use a straight edge and cut through the top > and bottom skins at the same time. I believe I used a dremel tool to cut my ailerons, however I used a straight edge or a chalk line to mark the line top & bottom. Then I think I used a sharpee marker to darken the line. Cut through the glass with the dremel, then the foam with a hacksaw blade. (I think that's how I did it) > I have done a lot of cutting with dremel > tool ( been using an air tool as the fiber glass dust plays hob with the > dremels electric motor) what are you guys using and what kind of blade for > the ailerons. I may get to them someday if I evar get through filling and > sanding. Lynn Hyder WA7YXF A7-RDM My Dremel and Makita orbital sander are on their last legs... the glass dust is killing them. But the Dremel is about 10 years old, so it's not too bad. The on/off switch is permanently on, so it is about time I retired it. I have tried cleaning it twice, but it doesn't help. For cutting, I use the metal cutting wheels, (about 1/4"dia), and also the mandral and cutting disks. If you try to cut Kevlar, you will waste the metal cutting wheels, so use the mandral and disks, it's cheaper. Kevlar will not cut well when cured. I think next time I will play with Carbon Fiber, its stiffer, and hopefully easier to cut. -- Ross ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: timing From: Ross Youngblood Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 08:29:49 -0700 X-Message-Number: 9 Depends, Standard ignition or magneto? On mine the spec from Great Planes appeared to be about the same I got from the auto manuals for the Bosch 009 dist, I don't have the figures off hand. 23 deg BTDC comes to mind but that could be the temperature in Alaska today for all I know. I use a Bosch 009 with Compu-Fire ignition. And I think 23 was the number. If you have a magneto ignition, there is a different spec for that. -- Ross terry chizek wrote: > > what the timing on a VW > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: throw over yoke From: Michael Taglieri Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 01:41:22 -0400 X-Message-Number: 10 Getting back to throw-over yokes, the lady who sold the KR in Staten Island was equally dubious about the eccentricities her late husband had put on the plane, including the throw-over yoke and also retractible tri-gear. If anyone wants these things, it's possible the buyer does not want to keep them. Her e-mail [I think] is SIBetty@aol.com, and she might be able to give you an address or e-mail for the buyer. Please don't contact me about this; the only thing I know is that someone other than myself got the project. Mike Taglieri >><< ><< He had the only KR that I have seen that had a yoke instead >of a >> stick. >> >Looked nice. >> >> > >> > Do you know who he was?? A guy named Bill De Freez in Ca built >one >> with >> >a throw over yoke here in California several years ago. Hope it >wasn't >> Bill. >> >> The KR project I almost bought in Staten Island, NY also had a >throw-over >> yoke, beautifully machined by the deceased builder. I can't imagine >why >> anyone would want one, however. Heavier than a stick and more >likely to >> give trouble, so what's the point? >> >> Mike Taglieri >> Bill's yoke was fairly light, I have a set of plans some where, I >meet Bill >>on a trip to Northern Cal. aboout 17 yrs ago. Nice guy, even thogh he >had a >>garage full of machine tool's he used the lowest method possible and >still >>get acceptable results. >> >>The yoke took a drill press, welder, and hack saw to make. Some day >after I >>get my scanner working I will post the plans from an old KR >newsletter. >>Bill Higdon >>Willard561@aol.com >> __________________________________________________________________ >>> >The original design was by Bill DeFreeze, but it was Herb Bull that >perfected the throw-over yoke in a KR2. Herb Bull was the KR pilot >that >died of a heart attack at Oshkosh during takeoff in preparation for >the KR >flyover celebrating the 20th anniversary of the KR. He also used a >version >of Bill DeFreeze's retractable Tri-gear, one of the first removable >fuel >tanks and . Herb had a great example of the creatively that the KR >design >allows a builder to do. He and his wife all around the country to >avaition >events in his orange/white KR2. > > > Bobby Muse > mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com > Wimberley, TX > > > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: miket_nyc@juno.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Friday comments/website update From: Ross Youngblood Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 09:07:45 -0700 X-Message-Number: 11 I also have to say, visit Don's site http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm it's great! -- Ross Oscar Zuniga wrote: > > Hello, Netters > > If you haven't yet availed yourself of the great ideas and work that Don > Reid has done, by all means go look at his webpage at > http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm and take it in. There are lots of > nuggets in there. Several other people on other lists have brought up the > topic of shrouding the engine for pressure cooling, rather than baffling the > entire cowl enclosure, and Don has some good photos of his setup on that. > Engineers Rule! > > As for Ross' comments about the KRNet/Lyris "action phrases", we can always > make one of the phrases "whine", and then whenever Randy 'Whinemeister' > Stein mentions the annual $10 support for KRNet admin expenses, Lyris can > send all subscribers a little reminder which includes the mailing address > and payment instructions ;o) I guess Ross' supply of chemicals for his hot > tub is getting low, so it must be time to ante up for the year > Seriously, it will be the best $10 you will spend this year. Almost any one > day's KRNet posts has at least one item worth the $10. > > And for anybody interested in progress on my M-19 "KR Construction Trainer", > I just updated my own little webpage at > http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Dropzone/5610/update.html > > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, Oregon > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Dropzone/5610/index.html > > _______________________________________________________________ > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: oshkosh From: "w.g. kirkland" Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 12:32:39 -0400 X-Message-Number: 12 Just back from Oshkosh. 132 msgs waiting. Many seem to be duplicates. Seems I spend more time reading and socializing than I do building. Only one kr-2 there. Gosh it looked small and lonely! Chap bought it used so didn't have a lot of gen on it's construction. Had a young eagle with me to help with the physical stuff. He got some stick time and about 12 hrs. map reading experience which is more than most private pilots. Saw the 200 hp. Mazda buut the price was more than my whole project is supposed to cost. It did have one unique feature. There was a spark coil mounted directly on each plug. The wire to each plug is just low tension wire. Anyone have any experience with these. How do the coils stand up to the vibration when mounted directly on the engine? kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr2-s for sale From: Warron Gray Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 15:32:59 -0400 X-Message-Number: 13 In all honesty you won't fit my "s" i'm 6 ft and that is about it in my version. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr2-s for sale From: "Kobus de Wet" Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 22:02:42 +0200 X-Message-Number: 14 I'm 6'2" and I fit in my KR-2 Kobus de Wet Cape Town South Africa GMT +2.00 Ph +27-21-988-3671 Fax +27-21-987-1850 Cell 082-424-0194 http://home.intekom.com/kobusdw -----Original Message----- From: Warron Gray To: KR-net users group Date: Friday, August 06, 1999 21:42 Subject: [kr-net] Re: kr2-s for sale In all honesty you won't fit my "s" i'm 6 ft and that is about it in my version. --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jfdewet@intekom.co.za To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: timing From: "Mark Langford" Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 17:46:31 -0500 X-Message-Number: 15 I checked the GP assembly manual, and it specifies 28 degrees BTDC for any engine under 2000cc, or 25 degrees for larger engines. I feel sure these numbers could be "proportionalized" to some degree, however, depending on CR, etc. And from what I could tell, mags are set up to the same total advance at cruise RPM. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Superfil From: Mike Mims Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 16:18:13 -0700 X-Message-Number: 16 Ed Janssen wrote: > > A friend of mine recently mixed it wrong - 1:1 instead of 2:1- and it > sanded like rubber as well . It rolled up when sanding. We also had over > 100 deg. heat, so don't know for sure the cause. As said before I have never had a problem with Superfil but something I noticed that might be the reason why. It seems that some of you guys are eye-balling the mixture ratio! I have precisely weighed each and every batch with a digital scale. This stuff may not be tolerant to the ratio being off, not even a little? -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Mirror Site http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr2-s for sale From: Mike Mims Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 16:22:35 -0700 X-Message-Number: 17 Warron Gray wrote: > > $27,000 + invested >>> Warron, does your KR have the pre-molded parts from Rand? You may want to list all the particulars and post a picture or two if you have any. Also what redrive do you have on your Subaru? Which landing gear? What instruments? These are all items that potential buyers will want to know. I will ask around at my airport to see if there are any potential buyers. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Mirror Site http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR2 project weight From: Mike Mims Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 16:24:35 -0700 X-Message-Number: 18 Tim Key wrote: > > Does anybody have an approximate weight on a KR2 in the boat stage on > retract gear in the following condition: > Boat stage complete with plywood sides and bottom; > Center Spars installed; > Retract Gear w/Wheels > Horizontal Tail Surface installed; > Elevator installed; > Vertical Stabilizer installed without rudder. See: http://a51.wetworks.org/Weights.html for some sample builders weights. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Mirror Site http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Superfil From: "Dean Collette" Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 18:44:26 -0500 X-Message-Number: 19 Mike Mims wrote: > It seems that some of you guys are > eye-balling the mixture ratio! I have precisely weighed each and every > batch with a digital scale. This stuff may not be tolerant to the ratio > being off, not even a little? I completely agree with Mike. Superfil is an epoxy-based compound. All epoxies are extremely INTOLERANT of wrong mixtures. When you mix the two parts, you are creating a chemical reaction that causes it to harden. If you have too much of either part, this "extra" does not participate in the reaction (because the other part is all "used up") so it will stay in the liquid form (never harden.) The more accurate you are, the better the end result will be. This is also why very thorough stirring is also important. Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:drdean@execpc.com Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: timing From: GARYKR2@cs.com Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 21:34:50 EDT X-Message-Number: 20 25 degrees BTDC for a mag, 0 degrees BTDC for a distributor (009 Bosch) Gary Hinkle Middletown, Pa. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Eng. timing From: GARYKR2@cs.com Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 22:01:41 EDT X-Message-Number: 21 Don't forget that the distrubertor has an advance in it . So it has to be set at 0 degres. If it's not, you'll end up with 50 degres BTDC. The advance is 25 degrees, same as a mag. Gary Hinkle Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: 2180 Less Reliable? From: Mark Jones Date: Fri, 06 Aug 1999 21:27:23 -0500 X-Message-Number: 22 Hey Engine Heads, I have been planning on using the Great Plains 2180 and have been following the engine threads. I keep seeing comments that the 2180 is less reliable than say the 1835. Maybe I missed something in the thread as to why. Anyway, could someone explain to me why the 2180 is less reliable. OK for you 'vair heads, I have started studying up on the Corvair engine and am beginning to wonder if this is the way to go. I have already mounted the Great Plains five point mount for the 2180 on my bird. Will this work on the Corvair engine or could it be modified to accept the engine? I would like to use this mount since it mates up with the Diehl nose gear bracket which is also mounted on my bird. Seems the Corvair can be made air worthy for far less than the Volkswagen. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Melting Lead Aileron Counterweights... From: "R.W. Moore" Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 22:25:36 -0400 X-Message-Number: 23 How much waight for a kr1? RWM ----- Original Message ----- From: Ross Youngblood To: KR-net users group Sent: Friday, August 06, 1999 1:38 AM Subject: [kr-net] Melting Lead Aileron Counterweights... > How not to do it. > > Well after getting all of the advice from KR-net and reading > the manual on how to make lead counterweights, I of course > had to try different techniques that would work "better". > > Technique #1. Use leftover Aluminum C channel and cardboard > to make a nice rectangular lead ingot. This worked well > except for the fact that the C channel I used made an ingot > that was too light. > > Technique #2. Go out and buy plaster to make some quick and > dirty molds. This was fun, and messy. Started with a wooden > plug then decided that this would get stuck in the plaster, > so I had some plumbers clay around (next to where my daughter > and I were playing, and so... had my daughter make some clay > plugs the same size as the wooden plug. > Hint #1: Think GOLD ingots, and taper the plug to make it > easier to get the lead casting out of the mold. Broke mold #1 > trying to get the first part out tonight. > Hint #2: Think about curing your molds for more than 20 minutes. > Somthing about the water content of recently cured plaster. Seems > that water when subjected to heat... say the heat of molten lead. > It cause instant steam, which wants to burst up through the lead. > This made for an interesting science project, but could have burned > us a bit... DOH! > > Had a lot of fun tonight, and made too rather ugly blocks of lead > compared to the nice ones the C-channel made. Unfortunatly the > two blocks are only enough to balance ONE aileron. I will measure > this tomorrow to see how it compares to the plans 1-1/2"x2"x3" > recommended mold. Somehow, I think the plans might be right, and > I might have eyeballed the mold wrong yet again... DOH! > > The nice thing is with the ingots taped to the counterbalance arm > the aileron balances! I love it when a plan ... almost comes > together. My ailerons are painted already, so I will be ready > to go once I get this tweeked. > > Also, I found that a Science diet dogfood can is a single sheet > of tin with no soldered bottoms to melt. The Vise grips make a nice > pour spout, and the aviation snips made a lip for the Vise grips > to grab. > > I have a terrific gas burner on the grill that melts lead > reasonably well. Keeps the KR project out of the kitchen and > melting lead on the stove while we are trying to get our home > ready for the market would probably loose me points with the > wife. If anyone wants to know the brand of grill I can pass > it on... perhaps I will take some photos for later. > > At any rate, I had fun again, and got my daughter involved too, > which is what this KR stuff is supposed to be all about. > > If the plans technique works the first time, I can say that I > wasted two days messing around trying to do it "my way" again. > > -- Regards > Ross > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rwmoore@alltel.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: 2180 Less Reliable? From: "Mark Langford" Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 22:30:25 -0500 X-Message-Number: 24 Mark Jones wrote: > as to why. Anyway, could someone explain to me why the 2180 is less > reliable. Mark, The only reason a 2180 is less reliable is that it's stressed more than an 1835, and stuff like the longer stroker leads to higher rod forces, and it produces more power and heat and therefore stresses the head studs and tweaks the case more than the less powerful 1835. It's the usual story of compromise. You can't have it all. But I'd say the majority of VW installations in KRs are 2180s, and you don't see a very high failure rate either way. As for the Vair, it uses a bed mount, since it's facing flywheel forward. A whole difference mount is required, and plans for one come with Wynne's manual. I'm sure you could add the Diehl gear mount to the bottom, but we're talking a little fabrication here, something some KR builders would rather avoid. One big difference in the Vair and the VW is that nobody (that I know of) builds a Vair conversion for sale, so if you want one you've gotta build it yourself. But with Wynne's manual it's a snap. The price for getting a VW or Vair in the air is probably about the same, except you've gotta buy that expensive 4340 crank for the VW, and you can use the stocker in the Vair. The Vair will put out more power though, more reliably, but weighs more. There's probably another reason Vairs never caught on in aircraft. With the VW you can just write a check and hang it on...and with a Vair you're gonna have to get greasy. And these Vair engines are at least 20 years old. You can buy all new VW stuff, if it makes you feel better. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: 2180 Less Reliable? From: "Dean Collette" Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 23:06:22 -0500 X-Message-Number: 25 Mark Jones wrote; > OK for you 'vair heads, I have started studying up on the Corvair engine > and am beginning to wonder if this is the way to go. . . Mark, Personally, I am absolutely convinced that the Corvair is THE way to go. In fact, I believe it enough that I sold my Lycoming. I can't really compare the rebuild costs of a Corvair to a VW, since I never really looked into using a VW. A standard rebuild of a Corvair can run you anywhere from $2000 - $2500, and that is all up - I mean everything. I figure that in the end my engine will cost me somewhere in the neighborhood of $4000. But, mine won't be a typical Corvair rebuild. You have to stop and consider that when finished, I should have 130 - 150 HP at the prop, weighing the same or slightly less then an O-200, 6 cylinders, and virtually everything in the engine is "new" specs, plus dual ignition, in a manner of speaking. I know, pretty big claim, but trust me, it can be done, and the beauty of it is - it's not that hard! To the matter of the engine mount - no, your 2180 mount won't work. The Corvair uses a "bed" type mount that you have to build yourself, or find someone to weld up for you. For what I am saving in the engine - I can afford to have somebody weld one of these up - no problem. I suppose, you could customize the Corvair mount to accept the Diehl forward gear, there's not a lot of magic in that. I should add, even if I could buy a prefab mount, I would still have a custom mount made for my airplane. There is no better way, I know of, to put the CG exactly where you want it. Since the CG is critical in how the plane will actually fly - I want ultimate control over it. Dean Collette Milwaukee, Wisconsin mailto:drdean@execpc.com Web Page at http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/home.htm --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com