From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Thursday, August 19, 1999 12:27 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: August 18, 1999 KR-net users group Digest for Wednesday, August 18, 1999. 1. wood protection 2. Calibrating CHT gauge 3. Re: Calibrating CHT gauge (opps) 4. Re: wood protection 5. KR Gathering 1999 6. Re: Drain hole size 7. KR Gathering 1999 8. Re: wing panel weight 9. Re: wood protection 10. Re: Longer range tank 11. gluing foam -how? 12. Re: gluing foam -how? 13. GPS 14. Re: gluing foam -how? 15. Re: GPS 16. Tip of the day! 17. Re: gluing foam -how? 18. Re: KR Gathering 1999 19. Re: GPS 20. Re: GPS 21. Re: Drain hole size 22. Re: GPS 23. Re: Tip of the day! 24. Flight Gloss 25. Re: Tip of the day! 26. Re: gluing foam -how? 27. KR2 help 28. lost address 29. Re: wood protection 30. Re: wood protection 31. MW-3 Rod End Bearing 32. Re: wood protection 33. Re: gluing foam -how? 34. Re: Tip of the day! 35. Re: Drain hole size 36. Re: wing panel weight 37. Re: MW-3 Rod End Bearing 38. attn: Eduardo Iglesias 39. Re: wood protection 40. kr 1 wing incidence 41. Re: kr 1 wing incidence 42. Re: wood protection 43. Re: wood protection 44. Re: MW-3 Rod End Bearing ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: wood protection From: "Stefan B." Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 09:49:43 +0100 X-Message-Number: 1 As the wood is quite hygroscopic, I would like to protect it against the moisture. The paint do not protect the wood, it just slows the moisture penetration. Do you have any ideas? Do you know a coat material that is enough hydrofuge to leave the wooden pores (of the Sitka Spruce) permeable to the air but impermeable to water? Stefan. Paris, France ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Calibrating CHT gauge From: "Oscar Zuniga" Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 05:45:34 PDT X-Message-Number: 2 Hello, Netters Now, see- this is the kind of little "duh!" tip that makes wading through a couple dozen posts worthwhile. Simple and easy. Since it had a different subject line, I changed mine and reposted it because it's a keeper in my file, and I want to be able to find it. One question though- most CHTs are fairly specific as to where the probe is placed in the exhaust pipe (distance from exh. valve or port), so even though you get good calibration, you might not be looking at the 'real' CHT that is important to the engine. Check the instructions that came with the gauge, or ask somebody who has the same brand of gauge or type of probe. Plus, make sure you have the probe in the exhaust of what you think is the hottest cylinder. (I guess if she's running hot, you've got a _real_ problem if you're not already reading the hottest one). Here's the post again: >From: "Parley Byington" >An easy check to see if your CHT is telling the truth is to >get a candy thermometer (from the wife's kitchen) and a small >propane torch. Use a can with some oil in it and heat the oil >with the torch and [the] CHT probes [in the oil] to check the >gauge for accuracy. > >I found my CHT was as high as 50 degrees too hot. This may >eliminate chasing a problem with the engine that isn't there. Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Dropzone/5610/index.html _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Calibrating CHT gauge (opps) From: "Wayne DeLisle Sr." Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:55:04 -0400 X-Message-Number: 3 At 05:45 AM 08/18/1999 PDT, you wrote: >Hello, Netters > >Now, see- this is the kind of little "duh!" tip that makes wading through a >couple dozen posts worthwhile. Simple and easy. Since it had a different >subject line, I changed mine and reposted it because it's a keeper in my >file, and I want to be able to find it. One question though- most CHTs are >fairly specific as to where the probe is placed in the exhaust pipe >(distance from exh. valve or port), so even though you get good calibration, >you might not be looking at the 'real' CHT that is important to the engine. >Check the instructions that came with the gauge, or ask somebody who has the >same brand of gauge or type of probe. Plus, make sure you have the probe in >the exhaust of what you think is the hottest cylinder. (I guess if she's >running hot, you've got a _real_ problem if you're not already reading the >hottest one). Here's the post again: Uhhhh,,,,.. I think you have confused CHT, (cylinder head temperature) with EGT, (exhaust gas temperature). Sorry about that chief.... (-; WD --------------------------------------------------------- Wayne DeLisle Sr. Charlotte, North Carolina USA mailto:dodger@accessnode.net http://accessnode.net/~dodger --------------------------------------------------------- Project Viking "Daring to venture forward from the Dark Ages" online FAQ/manual at http://www.evansville.net/~boeing/project_viking ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wood protection From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 09:07:41 EDT X-Message-Number: 4 In a message dated 99-08-18 03:54:09 EDT, you write: << As the wood is quite hygroscopic, I would like to protect it against the moisture. The paint do not protect the wood, it just slows the moisture penetration. Do you have any ideas? Do you know a coat material that is enough hydrofuge to leave the wooden pores (of the Sitka Spruce) permeable to the air but impermeable to water? >> Stefan, You can use epoxy thinned with alcohol or any other thinner and cpaint the wood with it. Or yo can buy special products (usually polyurethane varnishes) that are used to protect wood. You need to go to www.wicks.com and look for these. There are two companies, among others, in the US that make these. These are Randolph and Polyfiber. I am sure in France other products are available. Its important that wood is protected from moisture otherwise you will have a dangerous airplane. Haris ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR Gathering 1999 From: larry wayne williams Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 08:39:55 -0700 X-Message-Number: 5 From: Wayne Williams Grenada(GNF) Mississippi I think I messed up and used the wrong address so I'll try this one I am building a KR2--now in the boat stage I would lilke to come to the Gathering on Friday--24th and see some of you guy's KR's and talk to some of you. Who plans on being there on the 24th and about what time of day? If the weather is good I plan on flying up(2 hr flight). What airport should I come to? If the weather is not good I'll drive up(6 hr drive). If you do not wish to answer via the network then e-mail me privately at foxtrot@dixie-net.com. I look forward to hearing from some of you and seeing you at the Gathering. Wayne ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Drain hole size From: RFG842@aol.com Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 10:13:54 EDT X-Message-Number: 6 Always a good idea to ventilate a wooden or fabric covered aircraft structure. Even with the wood varnished, condensation will leave enough moisture to do damage over time. Structures completely sealed are safe, so tail and wings should be OK. Mike: Was hoping to talk you into a KR twin for the next project but if you want a seaplane!!! Bob ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR Gathering 1999 From: "Mark S. Jones" Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 7:11:45 X-Message-Number: 7 Larry, Go to the KR home page www.fly-kr.com and you will find all the info you need for the gathering. There will be plenty of people there on the 24th for you to talk with and should have may birds there also. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wing panel weight From: MARVIN MCCOY Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 19:49:08 -0700 X-Message-Number: 8 This is interesting, If the finished wing panels with two layers of glass weigh 45 lb, I wonder what Mark Langford's panels weigh with the carbon fiber?? I thought someone else had made their wing panels per plans and they were about 20 lb each. Maybe I am mistaken. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field -------------------------- Parley Byington wrote: > > My outer wing panels weigh 45 lbs each finished. Includes aileron balance > weights and paint. Note I also have two layers of glass which added some > weight, ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wood protection From: "Stefan B." Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 16:53:30 +0100 X-Message-Number: 9 Thanks to Haris for his message. May-be I could use a Marine Polyurethane Varnish used for the boat decks and other structures? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Longer range tank From: marmet Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:16:43 -0400 X-Message-Number: 10 --Boundary_(ID_DwM6iUOxbBFAKzof71iGTQ) Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit It should be vented outside the aircraft. Not in the cabin. JC DClarke351@aol.com wrote: > Here is something some of you might want to look into. I bought a > polyetheylene 6.6 gal fuel tank from JC Whitney Co. for $23.99. It is on page > 142 of their catalog under Marine Fuel Tank. I use it as an auxillary longer > range tank. It fits perfectly in the right front seat area between the front > and rear spars. I mounted a solid state fuel pump onto the lower front of the > main spar and hooked a line up to the header tank from the aux tank. It has a > fuel guage in the cap along with an air vent and a standard screened fuel > withdrawal fitting 1/4" x 18 npt (internal) In short it is neat. It also > makes a nice arm rest. Don Clarke > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: marmet2@videotron.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com --Boundary_(ID_DwM6iUOxbBFAKzof71iGTQ) Content-type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit It should be vented outside the aircraft. Not in the cabin.
JC

DClarke351@aol.com wrote:

Here is something some of you might want to look into. I bought a
polyetheylene 6.6 gal fuel tank from JC Whitney Co. for $23.99. It is on page
142 of their catalog under Marine Fuel Tank. I use it as an auxillary longer
range tank. It fits perfectly in the right front seat area between the front
and rear spars. I mounted a solid state fuel pump onto the lower front of the
main spar and hooked a line up to the header tank from the aux tank. It has a
fuel guage in the cap along with an air vent and a standard screened fuel
withdrawal fitting 1/4" x 18 npt (internal) In short it is neat. It also
makes a nice arm rest. Don Clarke

---
You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: marmet2@videotron.ca
To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com

--Boundary_(ID_DwM6iUOxbBFAKzof71iGTQ)-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: gluing foam -how? From: smithr Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:09:39 -0400 X-Message-Number: 11 I'm foaming my horiz stab and elevator. So far my biggest headache has been how to glue foam in place. I've tried lots of glues and ended up using micro/epoxy. This bonds well, but even when I use it sparingly it always pushes up through the joint and leaves a thin ridge of rigid epoxy that makes my sanding life miserable. I have some 2 part liquid urethane that I haven't yet tried as a "glue". I looked for "gorilla glue" but couldn't find it. Does anyone have a magic, easily sanded glue for gluing foam??? I'm losing lots of hours fooling around with this ridge of glue. Help!!! Bob Smith KR2S ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: gluing foam -how? From: "Mark S. Jones" Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 9:46:5 X-Message-Number: 12 Bob, Try using Pro Bond. This can be bought at any hardware store. Just be sure to run a bead where it does not squeeze out. Doesn't take much and works great. Another way is to use an expandable foam called "Great Stuff" also at any hardware store. This is actually a foam insulation and can be sanded with ease. I have used both with no problems. If you try "Great Stuff", be careful not to get it on anything you don't want it on because it will not come off! Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: GPS From: Gary Bunch Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:59:03 -0500 X-Message-Number: 13 Swiped from another list... Just a reminder to all out there who use GPS. The GPS "end of week" rollover occurs this Saturday at 8:00PM EDT. What this basically means is that your GPS will become "lost" at 8:00. The GPS is based upon a 1024 week calendar. It uses this calendar to keep track of which satellite is located where at any given point in time. When the calendar ticks over from 1023 to 0000 none of the satellites will be where it thinks they should be. So it will take some time to reacquire, variable depending on manufacturer. Make sure you reboot your GPS after 8:00PM EDT on Saturday. Once you do, and once the unit has figured out where all of the satellites are, you'll be good to go for another 20 years or so. One other thing. It is possible that problems could be experienced this Thursday at 6:00PM. The Air Force will be uploading the new calendar that begins with week 0000. For more information check out the Coast Guard's site. They have links to the Air Force's data as well.http://www.navcen.uscg.mil/gps/geninfo/y2k You should also check with your GPS device manufacturer. For instance Garmin has a utility that you can load into your GPS to allow it to sync faster. They do however warn that it may take up to 4 syncs over a few days before your unit will become stable. So check into it before this weekend. It is also recomended that you get the latest data base loaded into your system as well. Gary Bunch Alvin, Tx ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: gluing foam -how? From: "Wayne DeLisle Sr." Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:56:19 -0400 X-Message-Number: 14 At 12:09 PM 08/18/1999 -0400, you wrote: >I'm foaming my horiz stab and elevator. So far my biggest headache has been how to >glue foam in place. > >I've tried lots of glues and ended up using micro/epoxy. This bonds well, but even >when I use it sparingly it always pushes up through the joint and leaves a thin ridge >of rigid epoxy that makes my sanding life miserable. I have some 2 part liquid >urethane that I haven't yet tried as a "glue". I looked for "gorilla glue" but >couldn't find it. > >Does anyone have a magic, easily sanded glue for gluing foam??? I'm losing lots of >hours fooling around with this ridge of glue. Help!!! > >Bob Smith KR2S Hi Bob, Here is a repeat of a post I made back in Feb. Might be worth a try. WD > >Hey foamheads, > >Found something interesting and possibly useful for mounting >your foam on wings, decks, tails, etc. > >It's called MAXI calk, made by DAP. It is a spray can foam >calk/insulation similar to Great Stuff, but is acrylic based >rather then polyurethane based. > >Sets tack free in 10 minutes, complete cure in 24 hours, >doesn't continue to expand over time like poly, Water >cleanup!!. > >You can wash out the applicator with soap and water >and reuse it over again. > >$3.95 at Wally World..... (Wal-Mart). > > --------------------------------------------------------- Wayne DeLisle Sr. Charlotte, North Carolina USA mailto:dodger@accessnode.net http://accessnode.net/~dodger --------------------------------------------------------- Project Viking "Daring to venture forward from the Dark Ages" online FAQ/manual at http://www.evansville.net/~boeing/project_viking ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: GPS From: Ron Lee Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 11:29:11 -0600 X-Message-Number: 15 >Just a reminder to all out there who use GPS. The GPS "end of week" >rollover occurs this Saturday at 8:00PM EDT. What this basically means >is that your GPS will become "lost" at 8:00. This is not true. Receivers that are ICD 200 (203?) compliant should not have a problem. Check your manufacturer for specifics. In some cases you may be able to leave the unit on through the rollover period for 20-30 minutes and be fine. It may tale a "reboot" after the rollover but this is probably not the end of the world. Ron Lee ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Tip of the day! From: Mark Jones Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:33:58 -0500 X-Message-Number: 16 Ok, I have been doing some experimenting!!! I have been reading about all the problems some of you guys are having with fillers, sanding, edges curling, etc. I was at Home Depot and picked up a product called "Red Devil Onetime Lightweight Spackling". This is an interior/exterior crack and hole filler. It is easily sandable, will not shrink, sag or crack and is flexible. I applied this product to a very rough surface piece of foam and let it dry overnight. Proceeded to sand it to a smooth as glass finish. I then bent and twisted the foam and was unable to get the finish to crack or chip. The edges feathered beautifully with no chipping or curling. I then applied a layer of glass and let it dry. Adhered perfectly, would not peel off. What an alternative to all that high priced aircraft filler! This stuff only cost $3.00 per quart. Works for me! Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: gluing foam -how? From: "John Weikel" Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 13:06:22 -0500 X-Message-Number: 17 Sure, Use the squirt can foam insulation. Get the water soluable kind unless you want to cleanup a real mess. Cheap, available and easy. Sands just like real foam too. John W -----Original Message----- From: smithr To: KR-net users group Date: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 11:09 AM Subject: [kr-net] gluing foam -how? >I'm foaming my horiz stab and elevator. So far my biggest headache has been how to >glue foam in place. > >I've tried lots of glues and ended up using micro/epoxy. This bonds well, but even >when I use it sparingly it always pushes up through the joint and leaves a thin ridge >of rigid epoxy that makes my sanding life miserable. I have some 2 part liquid >urethane that I haven't yet tried as a "glue". I looked for "gorilla glue" but >couldn't find it. > >Does anyone have a magic, easily sanded glue for gluing foam??? I'm losing lots of >hours fooling around with this ridge of glue. Help!!! > >Bob Smith KR2S > > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jandd@maverickbbs.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: KR Gathering 1999 From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 14:30:44 EDT X-Message-Number: 18 In a message dated 8/18/99 9:53:41 AM Eastern Daylight Time, foxtrot@dixie-net.com writes: << KR's and talk to some of you. Who plans on being there on the 24th and about what time of day? If the weather is good I plan on flying up(2 hr flight). What airport should I come to? >> You will start seeing people arrive probably around noon Friday and it should pick up as the day goes on. It would be a safe bet that by "closing time" Friday there will be good contingent of KRs there. The airport indentifier is 1M9, that is if my GPS works after Sunday:-). All of the lodge rooms are gone the Holiday Inn has rooms. The phone number is 1-502-522-3700. Dana Overall 1999 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: GPS From: JEHayward@aol.com Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 14:34:41 EDT X-Message-Number: 19 In a message dated 8/18/99 11:21:32 AM Mountain Daylight Time, lightbulb@iwl.net writes: << Just a reminder to all out there who use GPS. The GPS "end of week" rollover occurs this Saturday at 8:00PM EDT. What this basically means is that your GPS will become "lost" at 8:00. The GPS is based upon a 1024 week calendar. >> I was just on the Magellan site last night checking into this. They stated that most units made after 1994 would not have a problem with either the EOW or Y2K. I don't know if they were talking in general terms or talking about their own units but it might be worth checking your own particular manufacturers site concerning your model. Jim Hayward Rapid City, SD ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: GPS From: William Zorc <73101.157@compuserve.com> Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 15:01:00 -0400 X-Message-Number: 20 I just spoke to a buddy of mine, who has a friend who wrote some of the softwear for the GPS satellite transmitters, and is now retired. Since this is the first time in the relatively short history of GPS that the time-based rollover occurs (it happens every 22 years) There is some question as to whether or not the satellites will even produce a usable signal after the rollover. Many of the GPS manufactors have lists of compliant units, and even some fixes for older units, that they believe will allow their reciever units to function after the rollover date, but the real question is whether the transmitters in the satellites ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Drain hole size From: Al Hawkins Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:17:50 -0700 X-Message-Number: 21 The Drain holes are required by Canadian regs. Plus it is a good idea to have them in a rainy area like the British Columbia Coast. Alastair Hawkins Port Coquitlam, B.C. Canada ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: GPS From: William Zorc <73101.157@compuserve.com> Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 15:31:09 -0400 X-Message-Number: 22 sorry guys!! I hit the wrong key halfway through my message, and sent only the first part. I just spoke to a buddy of mine, who has a friend who wrote some of the softwear for the GPS satellite transmitters, and is now retired. Since this is the first time in the relatively short history of GPS that the time-based rollover occurs (it happens every 22 years) There is some question as to whether or not the satellites will even produce a usable signal after the rollover. Many of the GPS manufactors have lists of compliant units, and even some fixes for older units, that they believe will allow their reciever units to function after the rollover date, but the real question is whether the transmitters in the satellites will continue to function. The timing of the transmissions is very critical, as it sends a semi-random doppler-based signal from each of the satellites. This rollover is sort of like a Y2K problem for GPS, and will be very intresting to see what happens. Hopefully, everything will work fine, but we should be aware of the fact that it might not, and to be able to backup our navigation with other options. (At least for the short run) You should also be aware the the military does some jamming of the signal for testing purposes, and areas like White Sands, and certain areas of the Carribean are currently experiencing temporary losses of GPS signals. Where I work, (B-727 captain for UPS) we have become fairly dependent on the GPS, as we use it for our primary overwater nav system in the Carribean, and it also feeds a signal to our HUD (Head Up Displays) Hope this helps, Bill Zorc KR-2 80%complete, 50% to go! Vero Beach, Florida 73101.157@compuserve.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tip of the day! From: "Richard Parker" Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 13:09:17 PDT X-Message-Number: 23 how light is it? is there a way to measure it against the comparable amount of "Poly Filler" or whatever that stuff is called? Rich Parker Picking up my converted EA-81 engine tonight! Peterborough, NH >From: Mark Jones >Reply-To: "KR-net users group" >To: "KR-net users group" >Subject: [kr-net] Tip of the day! >Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 12:33:58 -0500 > >Ok, I have been doing some experimenting!!! I have been reading about >all the problems some of you guys are having with fillers, sanding, >edges curling, etc. I was at Home Depot and picked up a product called >"Red Devil Onetime Lightweight Spackling". This is an interior/exterior >crack and hole filler. It is easily sandable, will not shrink, sag or >crack and is flexible. I applied this product to a very rough surface >piece of foam and let it dry overnight. Proceeded to sand it to a smooth >as glass finish. I then bent and twisted the foam and was unable to get >the finish to crack or chip. The edges feathered beautifully with no >chipping or curling. I then applied a layer of glass and let it dry. >Adhered perfectly, would not peel off. What an alternative to all that >high priced aircraft filler! This stuff only cost $3.00 per quart. Works >for me! > >Mark Jones (N886MJ) >Waukesha, WI >flykr2s@execpc.com >http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage > > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: richontheroad@hotmail.com >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Flight Gloss From: David Davis Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 16:08:25 -0500 X-Message-Number: 24 Hello Guys, I have been using Superfill and Smooth prime with satisfactory results. I was wondering if any of you have tried using Flight Gloss ( all Polly Fiber products). Any and all information would be appreciated. Thanks Dave ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tip of the day! From: "Mark S. Jones" Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 14:20:38 X-Message-Number: 25 Rich, I don't know the exact weight of this filler, however, when you pick up the quart container, you would think it is empty. The container probably weighs more than the filler. Feather light is the way I would describe it. It is a one part component so there is no mixing or measuring. I also used a filler like this when building R/C planes. That is what made me think about trying this. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: gluing foam -how? From: Bobby Muse Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 17:13:31 -0500 X-Message-Number: 26 At 12:09 PM 08/18/1999 -0400, you wrote: >I'm foaming my horiz stab and elevator. So far my biggest headache has been how to >glue foam in place. > >I've tried lots of glues and ended up using micro/epoxy. This bonds well, but even >when I use it sparingly it always pushes up through the joint and leaves a thin ridge >of rigid epoxy that makes my sanding life miserable. I have some 2 part liquid >urethane that I haven't yet tried as a "glue". I looked for "gorilla glue" but >couldn't find it. > >Does anyone have a magic, easily sanded glue for gluing foam??? I'm losing lots of >hours fooling around with this ridge of glue. Help!!! > >Bob Smith KR2S > > I used/tried all kinds of glues and suggest that you use the two part urethane because it is fast and easy. Paint part#1 onto one surface and paint part#2 onto the second surface. If possible, gently rub the two parts together as you join the surfaces. I used masking tape, straight pins and etc. to hold the pieces together until dried. Dries quick. Both urethane foams sand the same but the joint between them is hard. Use a razor knife to trim the hard joint just below the surface before sanding. Bobby Muse N122B - Wimberley, TX mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR2 help From: John Aberasturi Date: 18 Aug 99 17:00:05 PDT X-Message-Number: 27 Help, I recently purchased a KR2 rebuild project and have tons of questions= ! = 1. How can I convert to dual controls? Any plans, pictures, or drawings= ? 2. Can I use the dual Kadron carburetors like the ones on my sand rail? = 3. The engine mount hits the flywheel when I try to bolt it up. What = must be done? 4. Is there an affordable dual ign. system for the VW engine? 5. How many layers of bid fiberglass (.020 thick) does it take to obtain= the same strength of the mahogony skin on the fuselage? 6. How is the elevator removed for repair to the hinges? I also need: prop, hub, spinner, canopy, and tires....does anyone have a inexpensive source for any of these? Thanks in advance, John reply to: jauto@netscape.net ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webm= ail.netscape.com. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: lost address From: "Wayne DeLisle Sr." Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 20:39:38 -0400 X-Message-Number: 28 I've been trying to respond to emails from Eduardo Iglesias, "Eduardo Iglesias" , but keep getting the following error message. ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors ----- He posts here from time to time. If anyone knows how to reach him, please contact me offline. Thanks WD --------------------------------------------------------- Wayne DeLisle Sr. Charlotte, North Carolina USA mailto:dodger@accessnode.net http://accessnode.net/~dodger --------------------------------------------------------- Project Viking "Daring to venture forward from the Dark Ages" online FAQ/manual at http://www.evansville.net/~boeing/project_viking ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wood protection From: SClay10106@aol.com Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 20:52:53 EDT X-Message-Number: 29 Wont the fiberglass keep the wood protected. I was planning on glassing my fuselage to make it stronger and i was thinking this would somewhat weatherproof it ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wood protection From: RFG842@aol.com Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 20:54:04 EDT X-Message-Number: 30 Marine poly varnish would be fine. It is heavy though, so be careful. 2 coats should do it. I used a brush on spars, floorboards and items easily reached and the spray cans on the rest of the structure. Be sure to mask off anything you will be glueing. Epoxy will stick to it but I wouldn't trust the bond as a structural joint. On my spars, I built the spars with the ply web on one side, varnished the interior being careful not get varnish on the unglued spar face. After sanding the face I put a coat of T88 on the spar and used a putty knofe to put a full coat of T88 on the ply web before assembling. Didn't contaminate the joints and got full moisture protection on the interior of the spars. Bob ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: MW-3 Rod End Bearing From: Mike Mims Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:09:03 -0700 X-Message-Number: 31 Hey I was curious if the MW-3 bearing listed on Dr Deans web site http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/hinges.htm is a Wicks part number or is that the AN number? The only bearings I can find in the AS&S catalog that look similar cost about $60 each. What is the total cost of each hinge? -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wood protection From: Mike Mims Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:10:55 -0700 X-Message-Number: 32 "Stefan B." wrote: > > As the wood is quite hygroscopic, I would like to protect it against the moisture. The paint do not protect the wood, it just slows the moisture penetration. >>>> There are KRs here in the US that have only paint on the outside and have been around for over 20 years. I think the paint does a fair job at protecting the wood. That's if your talking about the exterior. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: gluing foam -how? From: Mike Mims Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:14:54 -0700 X-Message-Number: 33 smithr wrote: > > I'm foaming my horiz stab and elevator. So far my biggest headache has been how to glue foam in place.>>>> Hot glue guns kick butt for gluing foam in place. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tip of the day! From: Mike Mims Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:16:23 -0700 X-Message-Number: 34 Mark Jones wrote: > > Ok, I have been doing some experimenting!!! I have been reading about > all the problems some of you guys are having with fillers, sanding, > edges curling, etc. I was at Home Depot and picked up a product called "Red Devil Onetime Lightweight Spackling". >>>> Sounds like you may be on to something here but I think I will "Stick" to my epoxy based filler. Stick being the key word here! :o) -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Drain hole size From: Mike Mims Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:17:56 -0700 X-Message-Number: 35 Al Hawkins wrote: > > The Drain holes are required by Canadian regs. > > Plus it is a good idea to have them in a rainy area like the British > Columbia Coast. > But it doesn't rain in Southern California. I guess if you had to keep your bird outside it would be a good idea. Then again if I had to keep it outside I think I would be building a metal airplane. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wing panel weight From: Mike Mims Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 18:31:09 -0700 X-Message-Number: 36 MARVIN MCCOY wrote: > > I thought someone else had made their wing panels per > plans and they were about 20 lb each. Maybe I am mistaken. > Marvin, someone did say at one time they built their outer wings and they weighed 20 pounds. At the time I was right in the middle of finishing up my spars so I ran out and weighed my right outer main spar and the right outer aft spar. This weight combined with the WAFs and bolts for that side was more than 15 pounds so there is NO WAY someone built complete wings that weighed 20 pounds. That's like saying all the glass, foam, filler, aileron hardware etc. weighed only 5 pounds! -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: MW-3 Rod End Bearing From: Mark Jones Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 21:03:16 -0500 X-Message-Number: 37 Mike Mims wrote: > Hey I was curious if the MW-3 bearing listed on Dr Deans web site > > http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/hinges.htm > > is a Wicks part number or is that the AN number? The only bearings I > can find in the AS&S catalog that look similar cost about $60 each. > What is the total cost of each hinge? > Mike, It is an AN number. Look on page 144 AS&S 1999-2000 catalog, price $4.70 ea. Wicks carries them also at $4.75 ea. These bearings are made by Aurora. I have the hinge assembly Dr Dean shows on my 2S. If I remember right, each hinge totaled appx $8. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Waukesha, WI flykr2s@execpc.com http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: attn: Eduardo Iglesias From: "Mark Langford" Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 21:48:06 -0500 X-Message-Number: 38 Eduardo, Like Wayne DeLisle says, my emails to your address are returned. They were direct replys, so I don't understand why. Just letting you know that I'm not ignoring your last two emails, but can't get back to you so far. The answer to your question may be a bank check or maybe even a regular check. I'll get the prop book for you, so send me your address... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ----- Original Message ----- From: Eduardo Iglesias To: KR-net users group ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wood protection From: MARVIN MCCOY Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 08:42:14 -0700 X-Message-Number: 39 You can glass the outside or paint the outside, either will work, although the glass will add weight and you will get very little added strength from the glass. Having said that, I glassed the outside of mine with very thin 1/2 oz glass. The Most Important part to seal from moisture is the spruce wood. All of your spruce should be coated with two coats of epoxy or varnish. Spruce will rot faster then any wood I know of. Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field ------------------ SClay10106@aol.com wrote: > > Wont the fiberglass keep the wood protected. I was planning on glassing my > fuselage to make it stronger and i was thinking this would somewhat > weatherproof it > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: MR.MARVIN@worldnet.att.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: kr 1 wing incidence From: "Benny Skyn" Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 00:34:21 -0700 X-Message-Number: 40 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BEE9DA.946A7660 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am ready to attach the contour guides to the inboard stubs ...almost. = I have an old set of plans...2-10-76 revised!!! Back then it appears the = plans called for chord line five degrees off top longeron. I have a wing = template 1-1-81 that calls for 3 1/2 degrees off top longeron. Which is = correct? Maybe a stupid ? but is there an icidental twist on the inboard = wing stubs, before the outer wing? I'm assuming the twist starts on the = outside rib to the wingtip...not the inside rib.??? Thanks to anyone who can help, Benny skyn@vic.com ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BEE9DA.946A7660 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am ready to attach the contour = guides to the=20 inboard stubs ...almost. I have an old set of plans...2-10-76 revised!!! = Back=20 then it appears the plans called for chord line five degrees off top = longeron. I=20 have a wing template 1-1-81 that calls for 3 1/2 degrees off top = longeron. Which=20 is correct? Maybe a stupid ? but is there an icidental twist on the = inboard wing=20 stubs, before the outer wing? I'm assuming the twist starts on the = outside rib=20 to the wingtip...not the inside rib.???
Thanks to anyone who can = help,
Benny
skyn@vic.com
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BEE9DA.946A7660-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr 1 wing incidence From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 02:04:32 EDT X-Message-Number: 41 In a message dated 99-08-19 01:01:06 EDT, you write: << I have a wing template 1-1-81 that calls for 3 1/2 degrees off top longeron >> I read in an article that 5 deg was a mistake (KR-1 with a British Flavor). 3.5 deg should be the right number. Of course the stub wing has no twist so all twist is in the outer wing. However, there is a strong movement towards lowering the incidence. It seems that Ken Rand designed the airplane to fly very high with a turbocharger. Thats probably he chose a higher than 'normal' incidence. If you plan to make a lots of 200mph low flying runs over the runway your plane will look like a Huey Helicopter ( I actually like that kind of attitude) . This is, ofcourse, conjecture on my part. I plan to use 2.5degs of incidence and 2.5 deg of washout on my plane. I doubt I will ever fly above 10,000 feet. Haris ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wood protection From: HAshraf@aol.com Date: Thu, 19 Aug 1999 02:07:31 EDT X-Message-Number: 42 In a message dated 99-08-18 21:43:46 EDT, you write: << There are KRs here in the US that have only paint on the outside and have been around for over 20 years. >> I read about a Flybaby that had a spar failure because of dry rot. Haris ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: wood protection From: Mike Mims Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 23:08:40 -0700 X-Message-Number: 43 HAshraf@aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 99-08-18 21:43:46 EDT, you write: > > << There are KRs here in the US that have only paint on the outside and > have been around for over 20 years. >> > > I read about a Flybaby that had a spar failure because of dry rot. > I am talking about the outside of the airplane. Obviously all the wood needs to be sealed from the weather. But on some KRs the only thing on the plywood skin is paint, paint and more paint. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Filling and Sanding again! http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: MW-3 Rod End Bearing From: John Esch Date: Wed, 18 Aug 1999 23:24:50 -0700 X-Message-Number: 44 Mike I did find the MW-3 rod end. It is Aurora P/N. It is in a 96-97 year catalog on page 131 and goes for $4.35. At least I think it is the right one. John F. Esch Salem, OR KR2-SSW Mike Mims wrote: > > Hey I was curious if the MW-3 bearing listed on Dr Deans web site > > http://www.execpc.com/~drdean/hinges.htm > > is a Wicks part number or is that the AN number? The only bearings I > can find in the AS&S catalog that look similar cost about $60 each. > What is the total cost of each hinge? > > -- > zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz > Micheal Mims > Filling and Sanding again! > http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ > http://members.home.com/mikemims/ > Aliso Viejo CA > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jfesch@home.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com