From: KR-net users group digest[SMTP:kr-net@telelists.com] Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 12:22 AM To: kr-net digest recipients Subject: kr-net digest: November 08, 1999 KR-net users group Digest for Monday, November 08, 1999. 1. Securing rod ends on hinges 2. RevMaster 3. Re: Painting with spray cans? 4. Re: Facet Fuel Pumps 5. Re: Engine& Instruments 6. Re: Recreational in EAA 7. Re: New Sport Aviation 8. Re: Painting with spray cans? 9. Pushrods 10. Re: Recreational in EAA 11. Re: Pushrods 12. Re: Painting with spray cans? 13. Re: Painting with spray cans? 14. Installing Cockpit Floor 15. Re: Installing Cockpit Floor 16. Re: Pushrods 17. Re: Peel Ply and SmoothPrime 18. project status: elevator glassed 19. Re: Installing Cockpit Floor 20. Re: Installing Cockpit Floor 21. Any KR builders in North Carolina? 22. Re: Installing Cockpit Floor 23. Spray Can Paint and Fuel 24. Re: avgas vs mogas 25. Re: Spray Can Paint and Fuel 26. Re: Installing Cockpit Floor 27. wayne delisle sr./hoax 28. Re: Help! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Securing rod ends on hinges From: "Stefan B." Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 10:51:57 +0100 X-Message-Number: 1 --------------F2FD543A4F951A0EF508F82B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I wonder whether one has to secure with a steel wire or something else the female rod end bearings when using them on hinges (like Dr. Dean's, for instance). I couldn't see it on Dr. Dean's site and there is a French plane (Pottier P.80) that uses hinges based on the same principle and the rod ends are fixed just by CHC bolts. Stefan Balatchev, Paris, France mail me --------------F2FD543A4F951A0EF508F82B Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I wonder whether one has to secure with a steel wire or something else the female rod end bearings when using them on hinges (like Dr. Dean's, for instance). I couldn't see it on Dr. Dean's site and there is a French plane (Pottier P.80) that uses hinges based on the same principle and the rod ends are fixed just by CHC bolts.

Stefan Balatchev,
Paris, France
mail me

--------------F2FD543A4F951A0EF508F82B-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RevMaster From: "fly" Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:48:29 +1300 X-Message-Number: 2 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007B_01BF2A3B.60848D80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Ken Jordan, Would you please Email me privately regarding = RevMaster's Email or postal address. Thanking you in advance. David J Stuart, Wellington New Zealand. Email: fly@paradise.net.nz Pictures: http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~fly ------=_NextPart_000_007B_01BF2A3B.60848D80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ken Jordan,

&nbs= p; =20 Would you please Email me privately regarding RevMaster's Email or = postal=20 address. Thanking you in advance.

David J Stuart,
Wellington New = Zealand.
Email: fly@paradise.net.nz
Pictures:&= nbsp; =20 http://homepages.paradise.= net.nz/~fly

------=_NextPart_000_007B_01BF2A3B.60848D80-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Painting with spray cans? From: "Wayne DeLisle Sr." Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 06:42:26 -0500 X-Message-Number: 3 At 09:45 PM 11/07/1999 -0600, you wrote: >Boy, Gary's got me excited now. I'm about to cover and paint my nearly >finished TEAM Eros (a 1 year interim project before getting back to my KR-1 >renovation). I've been pricing paint and have been getting $600.00 + >figures just for materials, which is not unusual I guess, but it still >boggles the mind of a bargain hunter ( ie: cheapscate) like me . I'm >interested enough to at least do some test pieces before pronouncing the >idea as folly. My only concern is the lack of a flex agent, especially when >it comes to painting fabric? Any thoughts on this , Gary? It should work just fine. It is an oil based enamel and also, it is an industrial coating. It is more flexible then a typical auto finish coating, plus, it is easy to get a nice gloss with only 2 coats. Wal-Mart, K-Mart, Ace Hdwr. and many other places sell Rust-o-lium in quarts. There is even some decorator colors for use on outdoor furniture. It usually runs about $9.00/qt. It sprays just fine from a regular gun. I thin it a little with unleaded regular gas when it starts to thicken in the can, which it will do after you open it. The thickening takes several weeks, but if you use some out, then put it back on the shelf for a few weeks, then open it again. it will have thickened noticeably. They also make an epoxy appliance paint that is even better. It only comes in white and almond, and takes a couple of days to cure out, but it is really tough. I did the inside of a bathtub in a rental house with it and it still looked good a year later. WD --------------------------------------------------------- Wayne DeLisle Sr. Charlotte, North Carolina USA EAA # 545644 SAA # 1003 IAA # 118 mailto:dodger@accessnode.net http://accessnode.net/~dodger --------------------------------------------------------- Project Viking "Daring to venture forward from the Dark Ages" online FAQ/manual at http://www.evansville.net/~boeing/project_viking ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Facet Fuel Pumps From: RBChaser1@aol.com Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 07:46:12 EST X-Message-Number: 4 I received an email from Albert Frohner @ optelinc about a kr2 for sale and my email to him is returned host unknown can anybody tell me how to email him? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Engine& Instruments From: "Ronald R. Eason" Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 06:52:58 -0600 X-Message-Number: 5 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF29B5.E4A37440 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -----Original Message----- From: Steven Vitrella To: KR-net users group Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 12:17 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Engine& Instruments >Yes, mine is a little on the low side, but no one HAS to spend anywhere near >10K if they don't want to. If you want brand new tools, insturments, a new >engine, and bells and whistles like electronic trim, elect. fuel guages, >huge inst. panel, nav lights etc.--than yes, you will spend more than 10K. >But if a builder wants to fly a great looking, well built, eyecatching KR, >they don't have to spend any more money than they are willing to. The previous owner spent to difference of the $ on your KR. More than likely to person you brought the plane from didn't know the $ invested in the plane. You stoled it cheep. KRRon ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF29B5.E4A37440 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; name="Ronald R. Eason Sr..vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Ronald R. Eason Sr..vcf" BEGIN:VCARD VERSION:2.1 N:Eason Sr.;Ronald;R. FN:Ronald R. Eason Sr. ORG:J.R.L. Engineering Consortium Ltd.;Engineering TITLE:C.E.O., President TEL;WORK;VOICE:816-468-4091 TEL;HOME;VOICE:816-468-4425 TEL;PAGER;VOICE:816-989-9692 TEL;WORK;FAX:816-468-5465 TEL;HOME;FAX:816-468-5465 ADR;WORK:;jrlkc@mindspring.com;7333 North = Brooklyn;Gladstone,;MO.;64118-2329;U.S.A. LABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:jrlkc@mindspring.com=3D0D=3D0A7333= North Brooklyn=3D0D=3D0AGladstone,, MO. 64118-232=3D 9=3D0D=3D0AU.S.A. ADR;HOME:;;7333 N. Brooklyn;Gladstone,;MO.;64118-2329;U.S.A. LABEL;HOME;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:7333 N. = Brooklyn=3D0D=3D0AGladstone,, MO. 64118-2329=3D0D=3D0AU.S.A. URL: URL:http://jrl-engineering.com EMAIL;INTERNET:ron@jrl-engineering.com EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:jrlkc@mindspring.com REV:19991108T125258Z END:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BF29B5.E4A37440-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Recreational in EAA From: "Ronald R. Eason" Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 07:07:36 -0600 X-Message-Number: 6 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BF29B7.EF8FDCC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Very good reply, I agree with what they are doing. Commercialization brings us new designs, instruments and innovation. The many kits today in the market would not be here if the profit incentive were not present. KRRon -----Original Message----- From: Mark Jones To: KR-net users group Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 8:31 PM Subject: [kr-net] Recreational in EAA >Hi Netters, Thought you would like to see EAA's response to my e-mail >to them concerning the Recreational Aviation Term they are now using. > ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BF29B7.EF8FDCC0 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; name="Ronald R. Eason Sr..vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="Ronald R. Eason Sr..vcf" BEGIN:VCARD VERSION:2.1 N:Eason Sr.;Ronald;R. FN:Ronald R. Eason Sr. ORG:J.R.L. Engineering Consortium Ltd.;Engineering TITLE:C.E.O., President TEL;WORK;VOICE:816-468-4091 TEL;HOME;VOICE:816-468-4425 TEL;PAGER;VOICE:816-989-9692 TEL;WORK;FAX:816-468-5465 TEL;HOME;FAX:816-468-5465 ADR;WORK:;jrlkc@mindspring.com;7333 North = Brooklyn;Gladstone,;MO.;64118-2329;U.S.A. LABEL;WORK;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:jrlkc@mindspring.com=3D0D=3D0A7333= North Brooklyn=3D0D=3D0AGladstone,, MO. 64118-232=3D 9=3D0D=3D0AU.S.A. ADR;HOME:;;7333 N. Brooklyn;Gladstone,;MO.;64118-2329;U.S.A. LABEL;HOME;ENCODING=3DQUOTED-PRINTABLE:7333 N. = Brooklyn=3D0D=3D0AGladstone,, MO. 64118-2329=3D0D=3D0AU.S.A. URL: URL:http://jrl-engineering.com EMAIL;INTERNET:ron@jrl-engineering.com EMAIL;PREF;INTERNET:jrlkc@mindspring.com REV:19991108T130736Z END:VCARD ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BF29B7.EF8FDCC0-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: New Sport Aviation From: Tom Crawford Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 08:55:06 -0500 X-Message-Number: 7 Wayne DeLisle Sr. wrote: > > At 04:47 PM 11/04/1999 -0500, you wrote: > >Anyone recognize the plane on page 116 of the new (November) issue of > >Sport Aviation? Looks an awful lot like a KR. > > Sure does, including Diehl gear. Not yours is it?? > > WD > --------------------------------------------------------- > Wayne DeLisle Sr. > Yep, it's 2TC. You never know where I'm going to turn up. -- Tom Crawford Gainesville, FL N262TC Mailto:toys@atlantic.net http://www.tomshardwoodtoys.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Painting with spray cans? From: "The Stones" Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:05:51 -0500 X-Message-Number: 8 -----Original Message----- From: Wayne DeLisle Sr. snip >Wal-Mart, K-Mart, Ace Hdwr. and many other places sell Rust-o-lium in >quarts. There is even some decorator colors for use on outdoor furniture. ------------------- >Wayne DeLisle Sr. Paint dudes If you have a LOWES or a HOME DEPOT or any of the other large DIY centers near you, they usually have about the biggest selection from the rattle cans to the quart and sometimes gallon sizes. Tim S. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Pushrods From: DClarke351@aol.com Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 10:16:39 EST X-Message-Number: 9 When I made the pushrod system available on this forum I received quite a response. The drawings where then put onto a web site. Has this helped all those who were interested? I do have some pictures in BMP. formatt and could send them to anyone who might want a clearer view of what is in my plane. If I send the drawings in the same formatt you would have to lay them out in a parking lot to get the big picture for some reason. Anyway let me know. Don Clarke ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Recreational in EAA From: Mike Mims Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:29:03 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 10 --- "Ronald R. Eason" wrote: > Very good reply, I agree with what they are doing. > Commercialization brings us new designs, instruments and innovation. The many kits today in the market would not be here if the profit incentive were not present. > > KRRon Keep in mind that many of us feel these KITs should not be here in the first place. "Kit" airplanes are not the same as "homebuilt" airplanes but the FAA seems to overlook this fact. I for one feel that if you cant build it from scratch you should not be allowed to register it as a experimental. Most of the high dollar kits are nothing more than certified type planes that the buyer is allowed to assemble. There is just soemthing wrong with that in my opinion. Its alsmot as if the original regs are being abused. Ron please disable that V card option in Netscape. Below is the extra junk that non-netscape users get when you enable it. <<>>>> End junk ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Pushrods From: Kr2cooper@aol.com Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 13:10:23 EST X-Message-Number: 11 Don The drawings you sent me, the first one printed out very nicely on one page, then the others took 16 pages to print. I don't know if I did something wrong in opening them or not. thanks. Jack Cooper kr2cooper@aol.com Fayetteville, NC ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Painting with spray cans? From: "Leon Adelstone" Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:35:33 X-Message-Number: 12 Years ago, I painted a motorcycle with spray cans using the "Candy Apple" system. It was magnificantly beautiful. The downside was that there was no "overcoat" available (in spray cans) at the time. The following year, I had to do it again. Of course, there's very little pigment in the "color coat" in candy apple paint. Also, as was mentioned; fuel drippings "did a job" on the paint around the gas tank filler. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Painting with spray cans? From: "Leon Adelstone" Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:35:1 X-Message-Number: 13 Years ago, I painted a motorcycle with spray cans using the "Candy Apple" system. It was magnificantly beautiful. The downside was that there was no "overcoat" available (in spray cans). The following year, I had to do it again. Of course, there's very little pigment in the "color coat" in candy apple paint. Also, as was mentioned; fuel drippings "did a job" on the paint around the gas tank filler. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Installing Cockpit Floor From: "Ken Jordan" Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:50:33 X-Message-Number: 14 Does anyone have any tips on installing the cockpit floor on a std. retract system? I wanted to make it one piece, but it's obvious that the gear retract fittings/mechanism will prevent this unless I opt to remove them. Gluing two scarfed pieces together in the cockpit is an option. I could then cover the scarf with the 1/4" top ply. Would a scarf along the center line or along a crossmember be best? Thanks for any/all input. Ken Jordan ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Installing Cockpit Floor From: Donald Reid Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 15:51:44 -0500 X-Message-Number: 15 Ken Jordan wrote: > > Does anyone have any tips on installing the cockpit floor > Gluing two scarfed pieces together in the cockpit is an option. > I could then cover the scarf with the 1/4" top ply. > Would a scarf along the center line or along a crossmember be best? > Thanks for any/all input. The best solution for scarf joints is to have then over some cross member. The second best would be to have a second layer of plywood under the scarf joint and overlapping the area of the scarf. -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Pushrods From: DClarke351@aol.com Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 16:12:22 EST X-Message-Number: 16 I know. I tried it out on my wifes fax and got the same result. You could paper the walls with them. I do not know how to shrink them. Don Clarke ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Peel Ply and SmoothPrime From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:28:41 -0500 X-Message-Number: 17 Mike, I have already gone through this process,and I can tell you that if you sqeegee on the first coat of smooth prime it seems to fill the weave and set the stage for the final coats. But when you see pin holes while rolling, rub the smooth prime in with something like a small sponge or the end of the roller. Ken Wiltrout, ready for paint in Pa. On Sun, 7 Nov 1999 19:33:17 -0800 (PST) Mike Mims writes: > Folks I just got home from adding the second coat of > smoothprime to the aft end of my airplane and wanted > to share this bit of info. I know time and time again > people on the list have advised other builders to use > peel ply over ALL LAYUPS and after applying smooth > prime today I noticed something that sure reinforces > this idea. The areas on my plane where peel ply was > used end up completely filled with only two coats of > smooth prime! The other areas where I had to add > filler or needed to fill the glass weave are gonna > need all six coats (recommended by PolyFiber). If I > would have used peel ply over all my lay-ups, I would > have saved big $$$ and lots of time. So head out to > your local fabric store and buy yourself a roll of > heavy duty dacron. Use it over your lay-ups and save > time and money in the long run. > > ===== > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: klw1953@juno.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to > leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: project status: elevator glassed From: smithr Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 17:43:54 -0500 X-Message-Number: 18 I just finished glassing my elevator which has carbon reinforced trailing edges.. It looks great and strong. I used the normal micro slurry plans method which calls for glass-to-glass at the last 1/2 inch of trailing edge. After foaming and glassing the top I had noticed that the trailing edge was very flexible (which is probably normal until the bottom is glassed) . But to try to stiffen the trailing edge I substituted a bit of carbon fiber for the flox filler and overlayed the last 1.5 inches with 2 oz cloth. Its only a small change but it adds practically no weight and I hope its for the better. I scraped out the last 1 inch of foam, sanded, and put in a 3/8 wide sandwich of 5 oz uni-carbon fiber/balsawood/5 oz uni carbon to stiffen the span. Then just prior to glassing side 2 with 5.6 oz, I put in a little flox/epoxy and left the last 1/2 inch of glass which would bond to the new glass layer with pure Aeropoxy. -See diagram-- Then I covered the last 2 inches with 2 oz/yd glass and covered the whole thing with Langford's 1.4 oz glass. To get a straight edge I clamped the last few inches between a nice straight piece of 1/8" alum angle (available at any hardware) and a piece of 1/8" acrylic. Glass ggggg foam:::::::::: gggggggggggggg :foam::::::::::::::: cc carbon ccc ggggggggg flox xxx ::foam::::::::::::::: bb balsa bbb flox xxx xx gggg flox xxxx :::foam:::::::::::: cc carbon cc flox xxxxxxx gggggggggggggggggg Glass ggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggg The wingtips (elev tips in this case) were the hardest since they taper from about 5/8 to nothing. So I used a foam wingtip (about 5/8" square) which was sanded to a nice contour but I scraped out the last 4 inches of foam after glassing the first side so I could get a good glass-to-glass bond at the trailing edge. I wrapped the 5.6 oz glass around the curve until the curve got too tight, then transitioned it over a bed of flox to a glass-to-glass at the last 4 inches. Then filled over the last few inches with flox until I got the correct contour. This left me with a relatively thin but very strong last few inches of my elevator wingtip. By the way, my hstab/elevator airfoil is a little thicker than plans (9% if I remember correctly) and transitions to about an inch thick at the tip ( ply rib glued to a 5/8 spruce). The span is 2 inches wider than plans per side (4 total). Has 3 plans type hinges with o*lite bearings. Took me 2.5 hours of intensive work to glass each 1/4 panel. Bob Smith ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Installing Cockpit Floor From: Krwr1@aol.com Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 19:46:03 EST X-Message-Number: 19 No matter how you do it, cover it with aluminum after. One time ( I used my foot to push the gear handle down to retrack the gear ) . My foot sliped of and I darn near put my foot through the airplane .It went through the floor , but not the fuselage. I know a lot of you guys are not putting a retract sys . in , but it is still a good idea . Bill krwr1@aol.com youngstown Ohio ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Installing Cockpit Floor From: "Ken Jordan" Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:3:53 X-Message-Number: 20 Thanks, Don. Here's what I did this afternoon. I spent quite some time trying to discern a method to get the floor in place as one piece. It was not going well, when I noticed the bolt holes thru the spar caps were not on center. The upper bolt holes were only 3/8" above the bottom of the top spar cap, the lower bolt holes were almost as bad. So I got out my trusty plans and I had penciled in on p.30 that the distance from upper bolt holes to lower bolt holes was 4 1/2". After looking at the drawing it seemed the upper bolt holes should about 1/2" higher on the casting. So, I decided to disassemble the gear mechanism entirely and remove it. That's how I spent my afternoon.(This should help when doing the floor too) I'm planning to redrill the castings closer to the 7/8" distance given on the plans on p.30. I'll also dowel the old holes. But I wondered how I could have miscalculated this distance by 1/2". So I returned to the plans and found the control stick mount bracket on p.60 . Here it gives the mounting hole distance as 4 1/2". That must be where I got the number when I drilled the castings originally. Is the control stick bracket bolted to the spar using the same bolts that hold the gear casting? There may be a discrepancy in the plans here. And I was so careful to match drill the gear castings, wedge blocks and spar on my drill press, before installing the spar in the boat. How serious is this problem, or are the plans off, or is all well? Thanks. Ken Jordan (sorry to be so long winded) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Any KR builders in North Carolina? From: "Tom Andersen" Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 20:42:40 -0500 X-Message-Number: 21 Hi folks, I am planning on transferring to Greensboro, NC in a few months and was wondering if anyone knows a good place to rent hangar space in which to build my KR-2S? It's in the boat stage so a shared space would be fine too. Are there any areas of intense experimental activity in the general area? -Tom Andersen Orlando, FL ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Installing Cockpit Floor From: Mike Mims Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 18:17:42 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 22 <<<--- Ken Jordan wrote: I'll also dowel the old holes. But I wondered how I could have miscalculated this distance by 1/2".>>> Be careful here, this is how the one and only in flight spar failure happened if I remember right. There were multiple holes in the center spar because of gear mounting issues. This of course was just one on many contributing factors, again if I remember correctly. ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Spray Can Paint and Fuel From: GARYKR2@cs.com Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 21:44:46 EST X-Message-Number: 23 To answer the questions raised about the paint failing when fuel is spilled on it, the paint looks just as good now as when first put on. I can't count the number of times both auto and 100LL were on the paint. The auto paint on the outer wing panels have stained where the fuel runs back ( expansion from heat and overfilling ). And I have ran the header tank over plenty of times when transferring fuel from the wings. Like I said, the RUST-OLEUM is working out better than the high priced auto paint. I can't answer why, it just does. Don't forget, I am using the INDUSTRIAL paint. Not the spray your bird house and lawn mower so I can get $15.00 for it at a yard sale type paint. Also I have not had any problems with paint cracking. Now get this, I have also been able to blend the paint where touch up has been done, and you cant see any difference after rubbing it out( same methods as with doing autos). Gary Hinkle Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: avgas vs mogas From: Bobby Muse Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 21:16:46 -0600 X-Message-Number: 24 At 09:17 AM 11/05/1999 -0500, you wrote: >Wayne DeLisle Sr. wrote: >> >> At 05:16 AM 11/05/1999 -0800, you wrote: >> > >> ><<> >a >> >variety of reasons. The primary reason is cost. The savings in fuel >> >prices >> >between auto fuel and avgas are quite significant. > > >May just be coincidence, but when I use mogas, I find a lot more crud in >the gascolator on preflight. > >The other reason for using mogas is to try to get a decent fuel without >all the lead that is in 100LL. My experience is that the VW does not >like the lead. > > >-- >Tom Crawford > I'm with you, tom. 100LL has 3 to 4 times more lead than mogas. I try to use 4 times more mogas than avgas. Saves valves. Bobby Muse N122B - Wimberley, TX mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Spray Can Paint and Fuel From: Mike Mims Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 19:55:18 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 25 Here is a web site some of you might be interested in. The secret of the $4000 KR is out! http://www.thb.com.au/rustoleum.htm ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Installing Cockpit Floor From: Donald Reid Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 22:59:06 -0500 X-Message-Number: 26 Ken Jordan wrote: Snip > I'm planning to redrill the castings closer to the 7/8" distance > given on the plans on p.30. I'll also dowel the old holes. But Big snip > And I was so careful to match drill the gear castings, wedge blocks > and spar on my drill press, before installing the spar in the boat. > How serious is this problem, or are the plans off, or is all well? I can't say for sure without studying the plans is detail. I tried to forget all of the retract information since it was not the way that I was going to go. Doweling holes is acceptable, but make sure that you get a really good coating of glue in the hole and on the dowel. One very important area of concern is the distance between the hole and the edge of the spar cap. Standard references state the following: "The distance from the edge of a timber to the center of a bolt acting parallel with the grain should be at least one and one-half times the bolt diameter for L/D ratios of about 5 or 6. For ratios greater than 6, this edge margin should be increased slightly." The L/D is a length to diameter ratio. Take the spar cap thickness (2 3/8", front-to-back) and divide it by the hole diameter. A 3/16" bolt through the center section main spar has an L/D of about 12.7 to 1. That means that a 3/16" bolt hole through the main spar cap should have at least (and ideally, more than) 3/16" of solid wood between the edge of the spar cap and the edge of the bolt hole. If your original bolt hole was located too close the the edge of the spar cap, then you should seriously consider replacing the spar, because doweling will not restore the spar and a weak area will result. There is some good news though. The stress levels in the center of the spar are lower than at the wing root, and the doweling becomes a much more attractive option. If a bolt hole is too close to the inside of a spar cap edge, you are better than if it is too near the top or bottom edge of the spar cap, because the stress levels are higher there. -- Don Reid Bumpass, Va. mailto:donreid@erols.com KR2XL at http://www.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Ultralights at http://www.erols.com/donreid/usua250.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: wayne delisle sr./hoax From: paul mcreynolds <"paul007@bellsouth.net"@bellsouth.net> Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 00:16:03 -0500 X-Message-Number: 27 wayne delisle sr., you must be some kind of a jerk to put a hoax on-line and then seem to delight in it. this is tantamount to shouting fire in a crowded theatre. you're an a--hole. Paul McReynolds EAA 186000 paul007@bellsouth.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Help! From: "Richard McCall" Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 02:09:50 -0600 X-Message-Number: 28 Several things seem to apply here. First I would look at splicing the longeron back together, then overlapping it much in the same manner as the rear bottom longeron. A second option would be to use the wood working technique of gluing two pieces of wood together by cutting wedges in both ends that lock together. Rich McCall ----- Original Message ----- From: Henning Mortensen To: KR-net users group Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 2:05 PM Subject: [kr-net] Help! > > I found a crack in my rear spar. Then went and removed the rear spar to be > replaced. But... > > In doing so I seem to have cracked the lower longeron, right where the rear > spar enters the fuselage. > > Any ideas??? Help!!!! > > Henning Mortensen > Kr2 Regina, Sk, Canada > mailto:henning_kr2@hotmail.com > > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: planecraft@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com > > --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@timberline.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17800J@telelists.com