From: "KR-net users group digest" <kr-net@telelists.com>
To: "kr-net digest recipients" <kr-net@telelists.com>
Subject: kr-net digest: January 04, 2000
Date: Wednesday, January 05, 2000 12:20 AM

KR-net users group Digest for Tuesday, January 04, 2000.

1. Solenoids
2. Re: Warmth
3. Leno picture
4. epoxy and resin
5. Re: Warmth
6. Re: Warmth
7. Re: Warmth
8. Re: epoxy and resin
9. Re: Propellers
10. Garage Heat
11. bolts in elevator hinges
12. Re: epoxy and resin
13. Re: bolts in elevator hinges
14. Re: Garage Heat
15. Sticky Exh. Valve/ More Info
16. Heat
17. Re: Propellers
18. Re: Propellers
19. Dadoing Question
20. Re: Propellers
21. Re: Propellers
22. Re: Warmth
23. Re: Warmth
24. Brake fluid leak
25. Re: Dadoing Question
26. Re: Propellers

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Solenoids
From: "Richard Parker" <richontheroad@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 05:54:52 PST
X-Message-Number: 1


You can experience problems with Solenoids if you mount them horizontally or 
upside down. The springs are usually selected based on the plunger mass and 
the coil wattage and the work needed. There often isnt any real centering 
features for the plunger so if its placed in a position that the solenoid 
wasnt designed for, the plunger can rub through the side wall or get stuck. 
However automotive style plungers are usually fairly robust (high wattage)
which means they can use a stronger return spring, which is good for 
vibration resistance
measure the resistance of the coil and if its below about 40 ohms its 
probably robust enough.

Rich Parker
(Application Engineer - Solenoid Valves)
www.pneutronics.com

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Subject: Solenoids
From: RFG842@aol.com

Mounted the starter and master solenoids on the firewall Sunday
and found
that to mount the battery connection closest to the battery,
(pilot's side),
I had to mount the solenoids upside down with the cap on the
bottom.

Don't believe this is a problem since they are not gravity
driven.  Or am I
missing something?

Tnks for the help,   Bob

______________________________________________________
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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Warmth
From: Horn2004@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:01:03 EST
X-Message-Number: 2


In a message dated 1/3/00 10:29:54 PM, cygan3@home.com writes:

<<I am wondering if anybody could suggest a way to warm my COLD garrage,
so I can start glueing my KR-2S together?>>

I went to Northern Tool and purchased for about $180 a 220v electric heater 
which mounts from the ceiling. The manufacturer guarantees that it will 
easily raise the temp in an unheated garage appx. 40 degrees above the 
outside temperature. I have a 3 car unheated garage and can keep it at 70-80 
degrees inside while it's 35 degrees outside. The heater is roughly a 2 foot 
square metal box with a heating element, thermostat and blower. Works great!

I tried the kerosene heaters, then the kerosene salamander heaters, then all 
sorts of electric heaters. Never did like the fumes but thought I was saving 
big bucks by not buying the powerful electric heater. Spent more on kerosene 
in about a month or two than it would have cost for the best electric heater. 
It is so nice to click it on, then come back 15 min. later and not be greeted 
by the stench of burning kerosene. Just a nice warm shop. And after you've 
done your layups, you can click the thermostat down a few notches and let it 
run overnight to help the epoxy cure without worrying about burning the joint 
down.

Steve Horn
horn2004@aol.com
Dallas, TX

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Leno picture
From: "Pat Driscoll" <patatst@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 7:35:37
X-Message-Number: 3

Did anyone see the picture of what apeared to be a KR2
standing on it's nose when Jay was showing one of his 
funny ads on the Tonight Show?  Anyone know what happened?

Patatst@aol.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: epoxy and resin
From: vjchrisovergis@ns.sympatico.ca (Vincent Chrisovergis)
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 12:18:35 -0400
X-Message-Number: 4

I'm a new builder getting involved with a kr2s.
I'm using T88 and wan't to get info on what resins to use other than
what rr. sells. being in canada I'm limited. West system is avaible. and
for the wood glue what else can be compensated for?


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Warmth
From: Tlongcrier@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 11:30:23 EST
X-Message-Number: 5

In a message dated 1/4/00 9:03:06 AM Central Standard Time, Horn2004@aol.com 
writes:

<<  went to Northern Tool and purchased for about $180 a 220v electric heater 
  >>

What does it cost to run this heater compared to kerosene?  Electricity costs 
.10 cents per KW, for a small amount used (242kw), here.  Probably around .08 
cents for larger uses.

What is the watt rating on that heater? 


Thurman Longcrier
TLongcrier@aol.com
Florence, AL

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Warmth
From: Horn2004@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 12:59:18 EST
X-Message-Number: 6


In a message dated 1/4/00 10:32:29 AM, Tlongcrier@aol.com writes:

<<What does it cost to run this heater compared to kerosene?  Electricity 
costs 
.10 cents per KW, for a small amount used (242kw), here.  Probably around .08 
cents for larger uses.

What is the watt rating on that heater? >>

We pay .08 cents per KWh, I think. In a rough comparison, I'd say it is 
probably 50-75% cheaper to run this compared to kerosene if you buy your 
kerosene from a supplier (cheaper) and not the pump (way more expensive).

Don't know the watt rating or BTU rating of the heater is, but I'll try to 
find my instructions/literature which came with the heater and post that info.

Steve Horn
horn2004@aol.com
Dallas, TX

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Warmth
From: Horn2004@aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 13:14:36 EST
X-Message-Number: 7

The web site for Northern Tool is:

http://www.northern-online.com/

You should also get one of their free catalogs which you can order on-line. 
Their web site doesn't list everything that's in the catalog.

I couldn't find the heater I have in their on-line catalog. The closest I 
could find (and less powerful) is listed under their heater section and is 
advertised as a portable construction heater putting out 13,650 BTU at 4,000 
watts using 240v. It's item number 17391 and sells for $89.99.  I'll check 
out mine at home and post the BTU/watt rating if I can find it.

Steve Horn
horn2004@aol.com
Dallas, TX

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: epoxy and resin
From: michael beck <kr2s2000@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:45:27 -0800 (PST)
X-Message-Number: 8

--0-1804289383-947011527=:7583
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Vincent Chrisovergis <vjchrisovergis@ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
I'm a new builder getting involved with a kr2s.
I'm using T88 and wan't to get info on what resins to use other than
what rr. sells. being in canada I'm limited. West system is avaible. and
for the wood glue what else can be compensated for?


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I've been using West epoxy because of their lack of reaction to water and because of thier metering pumps. they are very runny and required a structural thickener in the joints, either glass or flox, or it tried to escape before it could harden. Its worked good for me, but on larger mixes or in enclosed places I wear an organic fumes respirator, which I would recomend for any epoxy

Mike Beck, Sedro Woolley, Wa


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--0-1804289383-947011527=:7583
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

<P>&nbsp;</P>
<P><B><I>Vincent Chrisovergis &lt;vjchrisovergis@ns.sympatico.ca&gt;</B></I> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I'm a new builder getting involved with a kr2s.<BR>I'm using T88 and wan't to get info on what resins to use other than<BR>what rr. sells. being in canada I'm limited. West system is avaible. and<BR>for the wood glue what else can be compensated for?<BR><BR><BR>---<BR>You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kr2s2000@yahoo.com<BR>To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
<P>I've been using West epoxy because of their lack of reaction to water and because of thier metering pumps. they are very runny and required a structural thickener in the joints, either glass or flox, or it tried to escape before it could harden. Its worked good for me, but on larger mixes or in enclosed places I wear an organic fumes respirator, which I would recomend for any epoxy</P>
<P>Mike Beck, Sedro Woolley, Wa</P>
<br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Propellers
From: michael beck <kr2s2000@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 10:57:08 -0800 (PST)
X-Message-Number: 9

--0-846930886-947012228=:7938
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


go to www.wood-carver.com and you will see a picture of a prop carver. It looks like you could make your own plans from the picture

 

Tlongcrier@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 1/3/00 4:55:05 PM Central Standard Time, 
cartera@cuug.ab.ca writes:

<< knowledge of the company that advertises the propeller carving machine
> in Kit Planes magazine ? (NEVER BUY ANOTHER PROPELLER) >>


That would be Gary McGill, Department A-5, P.O. Box 2566, Glendale, AZ 
85311. As per his ad in Sport Aviation. He does not list a telephone number.

He says make a prop carving machine for $50 or less.

Gary also sells plans for building a 1/2 VW for aircraft use.



Thurman Longcrier
TLongcrier@aol.com
Florence, AL

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<P>go to <A href="http://www.wood-carver.com">www.wood-carver.com</A> and you will see a picture of a prop carver. It looks like you could make your own plans from the picture</P>
<P>&nbsp;</P>
<P><B><I>Tlongcrier@aol.com</B></I> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">In a message dated 1/3/00 4:55:05 PM Central Standard Time, <BR>cartera@cuug.ab.ca writes:<BR><BR>&lt;&lt; knowledge of the company that advertises the propeller carving machine<BR>&gt; in Kit Planes magazine ? (NEVER BUY ANOTHER PROPELLER) &gt;&gt;<BR><BR><BR>That would be Gary McGill, Department A-5, P.O. Box 2566, Glendale, AZ <BR>85311. As per his ad in Sport Aviation. He does not list a telephone number.<BR><BR>He says make a prop carving machine for $50 or less.<BR><BR>Gary also sells plans for building a 1/2 VW for aircraft use.<BR><BR><BR><BR>Thurman Longcrier<BR>TLongcrier@aol.com<BR>Florence, AL<BR><BR>---<BR>You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kr2s2000@yahoo.com<BR>To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE>
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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Garage Heat
From: Tom Raby GRE/ER PwrSysOp <Traby@grenergy.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 14:35:46 -0600
X-Message-Number: 10

Why the heck are guys in Alabama and Texas worrying about heating their
garages?
Tom (Minnesota)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: bolts in elevator hinges
From: "george robertson" <grobertson@tdn.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 14:55:30
X-Message-Number: 11

hi guys;
    can someone help me out? I have never been able to understand how to insert the bolts in the elevator hinges after the elevator and stabilizer are glassed. i remember looking at some small hinge gaps at covington, just what are the hinge gaps some of you guys are getting? bobby muse?
     thanks 
      george


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: epoxy and resin
From: Dave King <Kingdws@Home.Com>
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 15:08:01 -0800
X-Message-Number: 12

At 12:18 PM 01/04/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm a new builder getting involved with a kr2s.
>I'm using T88 and wan't to get info on what resins to use other than
>what rr. sells. being in canada I'm limited. West system is avaible. and
>for the wood glue what else can be compensated for?

Hi

Try G2 epoxy by Industrial formulators of Canada. It's specs are the same
as T-88 with some improvements in shear strength and peel. It's has excellant
penetration of hardwoods etc and is non sensitive 1-1 or 1-2 mix. It's also
approved by the MOT for wood and metal bonding.

Dave

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: bolts in elevator hinges
From: Mike Mims <kr2sflyer@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 15:13:05 -0800 (PST)
X-Message-Number: 13

If you go to my web page at:

http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/tail2.html

you can see the slots I made to gain access to the
bolts.

--- george robertson <grobertson@tdn.com> wrote:
> hi guys;
>     can someone help me out? I have never been able
> to understand how to insert the bolts in the
> elevator hinges after the elevator and stabilizer
> are glassed. i remember looking at some small hinge
> gaps at covington, just what are the hinge gaps some
> of you guys are getting? bobby muse?
>      thanks 
>       george
> 
> 
> ---
> You are currently subscribed to kr-net as:
> kr2sflyer@yahoo.com
> To unsubscribe send a blank email to
> leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com
> 
> 

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Garage Heat
From: "Edwin Blocher" <kr-n899eb@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 18:03:55 -0600
X-Message-Number: 14

Tom,
20 degrees is a lot colder in Alabama than it is in Minnesota. It is 43 here
now and so humid that it feels like it is really cold. I have a detached
garage that was not heated until I got ready to start building. Due to the
cost of electricity (from experience at an industrial plant) I had a 200
gal. propane tank put behind the garage, rent on it is $45 a year and I
spend less than $200 a year for fuel. I put a 3 brick heater in the garage
and it will keep 45 degrees on one brick tonight when it gets into the 20s.
I also at the same time put gas logs in the woodburning fireplace insert
(Buck stove) so now I don't have to waste KR time on firewood. Then I hooked
it up to my gas grill and don't run the little tank empty in the middle of a
T-Bone.
If anyone is interested in a method for a really fine finish in the fuselage
plywood I'll be glad to go into it. It comes from my days of making gun
stocks and will make a slick finish.
That's enough for now,
Ed Blocher
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Raby GRE/ER PwrSysOp <Traby@grenergy.com>
To: KR-net users group <kr-net@telelists.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 2:35 PM
Subject: [kr-net] Garage Heat


> Why the heck are guys in Alabama and Texas worrying about heating their
> garages?
> Tom (Minnesota)
>
>
> ---
> You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kr-n899eb@mindspring.com
> To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com
>



----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Sticky Exh. Valve/ More Info
From: GARYKR2@cs.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 20:17:35 EST
X-Message-Number: 15

I would be interested to know if there are lots of black deposits on the
valves for #3 that aren't on the rest.  If so, you're burning something
extra, either fuel or oil, in that cylinder that you aren't burning in the
rest.  If you've replaced the entire head with a new one, the only other
source of oil would be the piston/cylinder combination.  And then there's
mixture.  What's the compression of these 4 cylinders?

Mark Langford,  Huntsville,  Alabama

        I pulled the right head on sunday,and found the usual build up in the 
#3 exh valve guide. The valve stem was clean.
        Inside the cylinder looked the same as #4. The only differance is a 
large area of lite brown ( almost grey) deposit above the valve head. Same 
spot on the piston but smaller. Other than that, both cylinders look the same.
        When it's back together I'll let you know what the comperssion is.
                                        Gary Hinkle        Middletown, Pa.
                                                 garykr2@cs.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Heat
From: "Gaylon Fuller" <fuller@pvtnetworks.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 17:47:49
X-Message-Number: 16


   Check out both harborfreight.com and northerntool.com.
Both have lots of really cool stuff.  And for warm stuff how about a 23,000 
btu kerosene heater for $124 or a 80,000btu propane heater for $99.99or a 
10" table saw for $79.99 and hey when is christmas coming again?


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Propellers
From: "George Majewski" <host@hsweb.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 21:41:00 -0500
X-Message-Number: 17

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0084_01BF56FC.6482BC20
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Hi guys,

Looks like you following me on that one.  I have tried plywood thing but =
not satisfied. Finally end up on www.wood-carver.com and I liked their =
idea except the price.  (week or two ago they raised price by $1000) So =
I decided to build my own.  I already have all parts (well - most of =
them)  Frelon linear bearings, shafts, some C-channel, few pipes and =
even lead balls for ballast.  Today picked up Lincoln welder from Home =
Depot. (Some welding required).  I am still positive it will fit under =
$800.  Wish me luck.  At this time I do not have plans but some =
sketches.  I am planning to put it on the web in the near future.
But when I will find the time?

George
New York
george@hsweb.net=20

Michael Beck wrote:


    go to www.wood-carver.com and you will see a picture of a prop =
carver. It looks like you could make your own plans from the picture

   =20




------=_NextPart_000_0084_01BF56FC.6482BC20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi guys,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Looks like you following me on that one.&nbsp; I =
have tried=20
plywood thing but not satisfied. Finally end up on <A=20
href=3D"http://www.wood-carver.com">www.wood-carver.com</A> and I liked =
their idea=20
except the price.&nbsp; (week or two ago they raised price by $1000) So =
I=20
decided to build my own.&nbsp; I already have all parts (well - most of=20
them)&nbsp; Frelon linear bearings, shafts, some C-channel, few pipes =
and even=20
lead balls for ballast.&nbsp; Today picked up Lincoln welder from Home =
Depot.=20
(Some welding required).&nbsp; I am still positive it will fit under =
$800.&nbsp;=20
Wish me luck.&nbsp; At this time I do not have plans but some =
sketches.&nbsp; I=20
am planning to put it on the web in the near future.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2><B></B></FONT><FONT=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>But when I will find the time?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>George</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>New York</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A =
href=3D"mailto:george@hsweb.net">george@hsweb.net</A>=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B></B></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B></B></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>Michael=20
Beck wrote:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px"></FONT>
    <P>go to <A =
href=3D"http://www.wood-carver.com">www.wood-carver.com</A> and=20
    you will see a picture of a prop carver. It looks like you could =
make your=20
    own plans from the picture</P>
    <P>&nbsp;</P>
    <P>&nbsp;</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0084_01BF56FC.6482BC20--


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Propellers
From: Mike Mims <kr2sflyer@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 19:54:14 -0800 (PST)
X-Message-Number: 18

I wouldn't think a prop duplicator is really what you
want is it?  There is a book out there that shows you
how to build props. Its actually a very simple process
and no special tools are required. I forget the name
of the book and right now I am too busy to dig it out.
It's a little blue pamphlet of about 25 pages. I will
post the name later if no one else does.

--- George Majewski <host@hsweb.net> wrote:
> Hi guys,
> 
> Looks like you following me on that one.  I have
> tried plywood thing but not satisfied. 
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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Dadoing Question
From: Michael Taglieri <miket_nyc@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:52:07 -0500
X-Message-Number: 19

This is not really KR related, but there are many skilled woodworkers on
this list, so I hope someone can give me an answer.  Is there any reason
why a dado blade cannot be used on a circular saw?  The dado blade is not
the kind that wobbles, but the kind with separate blades and chippers,
and it's fairly small (5").  The circular saw is a very beefy 10"
Milwaukee and I would be using a guide rather than trying to dado
freehand.  The length of the threaded spindle is nowhere near as long as
on a table saw, but it's still reasonable.

Clerks at woodworking suppliers have said not to do this, but they don't
explain why except that dado blades are sold for table saws.  The reason
I want to do this is that I don't have a table saw or the room for one,
and it's easier and cheaper to adjust the width of a groove by shimning a
dado blade rather than buying another router bit.

Mike Taglieri

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Propellers
From: "George Majewski" <host@hsweb.net>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 23:22:57 -0500
X-Message-Number: 20

Mike,
I figured a way of "creating" new prop from plans.  Sort of Mark Langford
templates you will paste on wooden blocks positioned at each station.  Prop
carver or duplicator is just a tool to cut it right.  Having each station
cuts you will finish it manually (use soft wood at this time).  It's fairly
simple process. At this stage you will have only one blade. Now you will use
it to cut the prop from hardwood using duplicator.  Both blades will be
identical.  It's very difficult to carve manually two exactly the same
blades.

The book you mentioned is "Propeller Making for the Amateur" by Eric Clutton
913 Cedar Lane, Tullahoma, TN 37388
I think I paid for it $10.

George


Mike Mims wrote:

>I wouldn't think a prop duplicator is really what you
>want is it?  There is a book out there that shows you
>how to build props



----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Propellers
From: MARVIN MCCOY <mr.marvin@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 20:52:07 -0800
X-Message-Number: 21

I think Mike is right.  The machine does a good job but it only makes
an exact replica of a prop that you already have.  It will not be able
to make a new proop from scratch.
	The book that Mike is thinking of is called "Propeller Making for the
Amateur" by Eric Clutton.  His address is 913 Cedar Lane, Tullahoma, TN
37388.  I think that is the only place you can get it.
	Another book or actually a pamphlet, is called "Propeller Carving For
Small Custom Built Aircraft" By Garth Ness, 881 Emory CT, Upland, CA.
91786.  Both have good information in them.

Marvin McCoy
Seattle, WA. North end of Boeing field

-------------


Mike Mims wrote:
> 
> I wouldn't think a prop duplicator is really what you
> want is it?  There is a book out there that shows you
> how to build props. Its actually a very simple process
> and no special tools are required. I forget the name
> of the book and right now I am too busy to dig it out.
> It's a little blue pamphlet of about 25 pages. I will
> post the name later if no one else does.
> 
> --- George Majewski <host@hsweb.net> wrote:
> > Hi guys,
> >
> > Looks like you following me on that one.  I have
> > tried plywood thing but not satisfied.
> __________________________________________________
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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Warmth
From: Michael Taglieri <miket_nyc@juno.com>
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 00:34:46 -0500
X-Message-Number: 22

>I tried the kerosene heaters, then the kerosene salamander heaters, then
all 
>sorts of electric heaters. Never did like the fumes but thought I was
saving 
>big bucks by not buying the powerful electric heater. Spent more on
kerosene 
>in about a month or two than it would have cost for the best electric
heater....

>It is so nice to click it on, then come back 15 min. later and not be
greeted 
>by the stench of burning kerosene....

No offense, but I don't see how this can be possible.  Back when I lived
in New England, I heated my first (drafty and insulation-free) apartment
with a kerosene heater because it had electric heat, and when winter
camer my electric bills shot up to more than $200/month.  Kerosene to
keep the apartment toasty ran about $7.00/week.  I now use that same
heater in my shop and it still works fine.

I found that my kerosene heater produced substantial fumes when I was
lighting it, but after the flame stabilized it was hardly noticeable.  I
solved the problem in my apartment by lighting it out in the hallway.  If
yours smells bad all the time, the flame is probably adjusted wrong, or
the kerosene you're using isn't pure enough.

Mike Taglieri

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Warmth
From: Tlongcrier@aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 01:44:54 EST
X-Message-Number: 23

In a message dated 1/4/00 12:12:04 PM Central Standard Time, Horn2004@aol.com 
writes:

<<  pay .08 cents per KWh, I think. In a rough comparison, I'd say it is 
 probably 50-75% cheaper to run this compared to kerosene >>

I heat the office space in my shop, 10' W x 35' L x 7' H = 350 sq. ft. or 
2450 cu. ft., with a 10,000 btu Kerosene heater with the flame set just as 
low as possible.  At this setting, it burns one tank full ( one and 1/4 
gallons, or 5quarts) in 18 hours running full time.  I use two 5 gallon cans 
and buy at the local service station pump @ $1.36 per gallon. Therefore, this 
is .0750 cents per hour.  About the same as the price per KW hr for 
electricity, say for 450 KW hrs and up usage rates, or .08 cents per KW hr.

My office space is a room inside my shop building, though, and is prety well 
insulated, and finished out with paneled walls, suspended celotex ceiling and 
tile floor on concrete.  If the outside temp doesn't get below around 30 F, 
Then I have to turn it off (it has no thermostat) about half the time because 
it gets too hot - 80 F + and holds it.  The shop, or warehouse, building is 
wood framing with corregated siding on a concrete slab floor with asphalt 
shingle roofing, two 10' x 10' overhead, and two smaller, doors. It has no 
ceiling installed and is not insulated.

A typical example would be:  If out side temp is 25 F, inside shop building 
(4000 sq. ft.), temp runs about 40 F, and office temp about 55 F, with my 
heater off.  I do not attempt to heat my entire shop.  I have a large ceiling 
hung natural gas heater, but I don't use it.  40 to 45 F is really not a very 
bad working temp - IF you keep moving and the circulation up.  Otherwise, 
you'll freeze your "yang yang" off - except for epoxy, and some other types, 
of work, of course.

My little heater does very well for what little heating I have to do, but I 
would like to compare some costs, say with this type heater.  I am thinking 
of closing in an area inside my shop for year round building.

Thanks
Thurman Longcrier
TLongcrier@aol.com
Florence, AL

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Brake fluid leak
From: Greg S Martin <idrawtobuild@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:57:34 -0800
X-Message-Number: 24

I have a brake fluid leak that seam to have broken through the spar
varnish and has soaked into the wood (mahogany plywood).  It's about 2.5"
x 6" big.  My question is.  Is there a chemical or ? that I can use
without destroying the wood?

Or should I just replace the skin on the bottom.

Thanks for the help.

Happy building and/or flying

Greg Martin, idrawtobuild@juno.com
1783 Glenwood Court 
Bakersfield, California 93306
work 661-861-0570, fax 861-0517
home 661-872-8781, fax 871-1822

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Dadoing Question
From: Greg S Martin <idrawtobuild@juno.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 23:24:31 -0800
X-Message-Number: 25



On Tue, 4 Jan 2000 22:52:07 -0500 Michael Taglieri <miket_nyc@juno.com>
writes:
> This is not really KR related, but there are many skilled woodworkers 
> on this list, so I hope someone can give me an answer.  Is there any 
> reason why a dado blade cannot be used on a circular saw?  
> Mike Taglieri
Mike

You don't want to do this with a short (normal) drive stud circular saw. 
I do remember that my dad had a Porter Cable circular saw that was just
for cutting dado's.  But that was back in the '60's when my dad was
building his own cabinets.  Now there are cabinet shops on every corner. 
I don't know if you could find one now.  

The reason for not doing a dado with a circular is that you will put to
much torque on the bearings and it could happen instantly and hit the
blade guard and booooooom.  You could lose some flesh in this situation. 
Not a good thing.

Happy building and/or flying

Greg Martin, idrawtobuild@juno.com
1783 Glenwood Court 
Bakersfield, California 93306
work 661-861-0570, fax 861-0517
home 661-872-8781, fax 871-1822

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject: Re: Propellers
From: "Stefan B." <stefan.balatchev@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 08:26:33 +0100
X-Message-Number: 26

Go to:

http://members.aol.com/Lee810/propfab.html

to see how to build a good composite prop.

Stefan Balatchev,
Paris, France





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