From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: January 12, 2000 Date: Thursday, January 13, 2000 12:22 AM KR-net users group Digest for Wednesday, January 12, 2000. 1. Fw: Folding wings 2. Re: kr-net digest: January 11, 2000 3. Rotax 914 in a KR 4. looking 5. Lean of Peak 6. Re: Help 7. Re: bolts in elevator hinges 8. Re: Canopy lock 9. Re: Canopy lock 10. Re: bolts in elevator hinges 11. Re: looking 12. Modification 13. KR Simulation with MS Flight Sim 2000 Disappointing 14. Re: kr-net digest: January 11, 2000 15. Re: kr-net digest: January 11, 2000 16. c-85 on ebay ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Fw: Folding wings From: "fly" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 21:05:10 +1300 X-Message-Number: 1 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01BF5D40.B5FB5220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable These are the answers recieved to the following questions. Have = attempted to contact Ed Johannson twice re pictures with no luck. Hope = you have better luck than I have.....Dave Email: fly@paradise.net.nz Pictures: http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~fly ----- Original Message -----=20 From: R.W. Moore=20 To: fly=20 Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 4:48 AM Subject: Re: Folding wings Sorry, for the delay in responding to your email, I have been out of = town.=20 =20 1. No.=20 2. The folding wing system is not FAA approved. This system does not = have any thing to do with the strenght of the wings. The system attaches = on top of the wing attach fittings. This system allows one person to = fold the wings and take the plane home.=20 3. Years ago, I sold two kits and since then I have not heard from the = buyers. At that time the system had a stand under the wing to hold it up = while the wing attach bolts was removed. The new system has a locking = latch to hold the wing in place while the bolts are removed and = reintalled.=20 4.. I do not have current photos, contact Ed Johannson on the kr net he = put up photos a while back He did it for me. I have not learned to do it = on a computer.=20 5. No, the system mounts on top of the wing attach fittings. The only = changes you may have to make is possable a little longer bolts to hole = the wing attach fittings, and make room in the plywood at the end of = the wings and the center section to allow the system to mount.=20 5. No, Again the system mounts on top of the wing attach fittings. Every = thing is on the inside of the wing, when the wing is bolted up. You = would not know the system was installed by looking at the wing. 6. No.=20 =20 The time to remove the wing bolts and the gas lines is the time it take = to fold the wings. The lights and radio antenna coax will not have to be = unhooked.=20 =20 Tools needed to build the system is a 1" metal hole saw. and regular = hand tools. Most of the meter to build the Folding Wing kit can be = bought at your local hardware store. If I can be of any help please call me at 706-779-3446 Mornings are the = best time.=20 Sincerely,=20 R. W. Moore ----- Original Message -----=20 From: fly=20 To: R.W. Moore=20 Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 10:22 PM Subject: Fw: Folding wings ----- Original Message -----=20 From: fly=20 To: R.W. Moore=20 Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 6:10 PM Subject: Folding wings Hello and thank you for replying to my request on folding wings. Questions. (1) Does your system replace the existing brackets (2) Is it FAA approved (3) Are there any flying at present (4) Do you have any photo's (5) Do they increase the span of the center section (6) Is there a hump or bump on top of the wing join Thanks in advance.........David Stuart Email: fly@paradise.net.nz Pictures: http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~fly ------=_NextPart_000_0041_01BF5D40.B5FB5220 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
These are the answers recieved to the following = questions.=20 Have attempted to contact Ed Johannson twice re pictures with no luck. = Hope you=20 have better luck than I have.....Dave

Email:  fly@paradise.net.nz
Pictures:&= nbsp; http://homepages.paradise.= net.nz/~fly
----- Original Message -----=20
From: R.W. = Moore
To: fly
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2000 4:48 AM
Subject: Re: Folding wings

Sorry, for the delay in responding to = your email, I=20 have been out of town. 
 
1. No.
2. The folding wing system is not FAA = approved.=20 This system does not have any thing to do with the strenght of the = wings.=20 The system attaches on top of the wing attach fittings. This system = allows one=20 person to fold the wings and take the plane home.
3. Years ago, I sold two kits and since = then I have=20 not heard from the buyers. At that time the system had a stand under the = wing to=20 hold it up while the wing attach bolts was removed. The new system has a = locking=20 latch to hold the wing in place while the bolts are = removed and=20 reintalled. 
4.. I do not have current photos, = contact=20 Ed Johannson on the kr net he put up photos a while = back He=20 did it for me. I have not learned to do it on=20 a computer. 
5.  No, the system mounts on top = of the wing=20 attach fittings. The only changes you may have to make is possable a = little=20 longer bolts to hole the wing attach fittings, and make room in the=20 plywood  at the end of the wings and the center section to allow = the system=20 to mount. 
5. No, Again the system mounts on top = of the wing=20 attach fittings. Every thing is on the inside of the wing, when the wing = is=20 bolted up. You would not know the system was installed by looking = at the=20 wing.
6.  No. 
 
The time to remove the wing = bolts and the gas=20 lines is the time it take to fold the wings. The lights and radio = antenna=20 coax will not have to be unhooked. 
 
Tools needed to build the system is a = 1" metal hole=20 saw. and regular hand tools. Most of the meter to build the Folding = Wing=20 kit can be bought at your local hardware store.
If I can be of any help please call me = at=20 706-779-3446 Mornings are the best time. 
Sincerely, 
R. W. Moore
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 fly
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2000 = 10:22=20 PM
Subject: Fw: Folding = wings

 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: fly
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 1999 6:10 PM
Subject: Folding wings

Hello and thank you for replying to = my request on=20 folding wings.
Questions. (1) Does your system = replace the=20 existing brackets
          &nbs= p;     =20 (2) Is it FAA approved
          &nbs= p;     =20 (3) Are there any flying at present
          &nbs= p;     =20 (4) Do you have any photo's
          &nbs= p;     =20 (5) Do they increase the span of the center section
          &nbs= p;     =20 (6) Is there a hump or bump on top of the wing join
Thanks in advance.........David  = Stuart

Email:  fly@paradise.net.nz
Pictures:&= nbsp;=20 http://homepages.paradise.= net.nz/~fly
------=_NextPart_000_0041_01BF5D40.B5FB5220-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr-net digest: January 11, 2000 From: Gognij@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 08:53:39 EST X-Message-Number: 2 Rick, I used this sanding post/sandingstick idea also when I built my boat section and it worked out perfect. That was "PERFECT," with little effort. I am sure that you would agree that others should not be scabbing on pieces of wood onto their airplane to make things right. For those of you who have not got to this point in the construction. Slow down and remember to enjoy building your airplane. This alone will save you building time in the longrun. .............Jim Gogniat ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Rotax 914 in a KR From: "John Bryhan" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 6:50:35 X-Message-Number: 3 >5. Has anyone used any Rotax engines in KRs? >5a. Has anyone been flying with more than eighty something HP? I am >asking because of the idea of installing Rotax 914 (115/100HP). Is the >Vne a problem?. I've never heard of one Though it wouldn't surprise me if someone had done it. The drawback (as I see it) on the Rotax is the PRICE! in America around $15,000. It's a little engine, 900 cubic centimeters with radiators and turbo (914) it's also pretty light I bet all up it weighs similar to a VW 2180 or maybe a tad more. jeb@thuntek.net http://www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krpage.htm Los Alamos NM ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: looking From: "Keith Crawford" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:38:11 PST X-Message-Number: 4 Hi KR fans. I am looking for a web site that will give me the name of kr builders in any state. or if anyone knows builders in michigan. thank you keith crawford ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Lean of Peak From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 13:43:43 EST X-Message-Number: 5 --part1_73.50c9c7.25ae255f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Guys, there is quite an ongoing discussion on several aviation nets concerning mixture operation and the old wives tail of lean to rough then back off 50 degrees. Food for thought, go to the following article and you'll probably start running 50 to 75 degrees lean of peak. No, trust me, the engine does not stop if you lean past peak. The EGTs and CHTs do drop back just like running on ROP. It takes a little more mixture management as you need to stay away from detonation, but my valves look cleaner, my plugs are cleaning and I'm burning less fuel. Believe me, this goes against all I was taught, even in commercial. The theory behind this is at an acceptable temp LOP or ROP, it is better to be LOP where you are not throwing burning fuel out the exhaust valve (carbon), you are burning less fuel more cleanly. It takes a little more awareness in watching EGT and CHT in altitude changes as any decrease in altitude with lean the mixture (more air). I have only been using this in cruise and do notice a dramatic difference. Take a minute and read this article. It's not the only authoritative literature, it's just the best at explaining it I have found. BTW JPI now with GAMI injectors will automatically adjust each injector to achieve a preset LOP temp for each cylinder. I'm no expert on this but I've been following it for some time and it makes sense. http://www.avweb.com/articles/pelperch/pelp0018.html Thought I would ruffle some feathers here:-) Dana Overall 2000 Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ --part1_73.50c9c7.25ae255f_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yc05.mx.aol.com (rly-yc05.mail.aol.com [172.18.149.37]) by air-yc03.mail.aol.com (v67.7) with ESMTP; Tue, 11 Jan 2000 14:48:02 -0500 Received: from madaket.netwizards.net (madaket.netwizards.net [208.164.216.19]) by rly-yc05.mx.aol.com (v67.7) with ESMTP; Tue, 11 Jan 2000 14:47:43 -0500 Received: (from majordomo@localhost) by madaket.netwizards.net (8.9.3/8.9.3) id OAA26725 for beech-owners-outgoing; Tue, 11 Jan 2000 14:55:38 -0800 X-Authentication-Warning: madaket.netwizards.net: majordomo set sender to owner-beech-owners@madaket.netwizards.net using -f Received: from mail.radiks.net (mail.radiks.net [205.138.126.4]) by madaket.netwizards.net (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA26722 for ; Tue, 11 Jan 2000 14:55:36 -0800 Received: from lockhartray1.fnbo.com (dsp-412-omaha.radiks.net [205.138.126.200]) by mail.radiks.net (8.9.3/8.9.1) with SMTP id NAA22581 for ; Tue, 11 Jan 2000 13:41:39 -0600 (CST) From: Ray Lockhart/FNSC Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 13:43:52 -0600 To: beech-owners@madaket.netwizards.net Subject: Re: Cruise Setting Message-ID: <7D636ACF9AE0A25D86256863006BCCF6.0000000000000000@fnbo.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-beech-owners@madaket.netwizards.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: beech-owners@madaket.netwizards.net Bill, See John Deakin's article entitled "Mixtrue Magic" on Avweb. This has a pretty complete discussion of leaning and of ROP and LOP operations. It's at http://www.avweb.com/articles/pelperch/pelp0018.html. If you are not a member of Avweb,you will need to register but it's free. Best Ray Billearls2@aol.com on 01/11/2000 06:02:56 AM Please respond to beech-owners@madaket.netwizards.net To: beech-owners@madaket.netwizards.net cc: Subject: Re: Cruise Setting In a message dated 01/09/2000 10:19:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, 72311.556@compuserve.com writes: << "Leaner is cleaner. "Leaner is cooler. "Cleaner and cooler are better for the engine." >> Is this the bottom line on the LOP/ROP issue ? Could someone list a brief summary of the pros and cons of each. Thanks, Bill N1122Z 96' A36 --part1_73.50c9c7.25ae255f_boundary-- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Help From: "Edwin Blocher" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 13:29:11 -0600 X-Message-Number: 6 Thanks to all for your input. I went back to the shop today, messed around with the fuselage and somehow everything ended up really close to perfect. I'll let you know when the glue cures and I can check measurements again. Ed Ed Blocher Moody, AL mailto: kr-n899eb@mindspring.com ----- Original Message ----- From: John Roffey To: KR-net users group Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 11:21 PM Subject: [kr-net] Help > Ed, I tried the method described in the manual, mounting the tail post > through the building table at 7deg. right on the centerline of the boat > top layout and upside down. Once the post was mounted firmly on a > fixture UNDER the table, pulling the sides together was a snap. Fitting > the longerons to the post for an accurate fit was time consuming and > frustrating but worth the effort. Once fit was established, right angle > fixtures were built to hold the sides vertical and the longerons > straight. I screwed these to the table after I clamped the sides to the > upside-down tail post. I could move the sides apart enough to apply the > T88 and get everything lined up perfect. Once I got the bottom skinned > and flipped the "boat" over, the tail post was mounted absolutely > vertical. Hope this helps you. > John Roffey > jeroffey@tir.com > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kr-n899eb@mindspring.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: bolts in elevator hinges From: Bobby Muse Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:06:39 -0600 X-Message-Number: 7 At 02:55 PM 01/04/2000, you wrote: >hi guys; > can someone help me out? I have never been able to understand how to insert the bolts in the elevator hinges after the elevator and stabilizer are glassed. i remember looking at some small hinge gaps at covington, just what are the hinge gaps some of you guys are getting? bobby muse? > thanks > george > 1- In order to get the bolts inserted into the hinges, you must cut small amount of material away along the bottom of the leading edge of the elevator on both sides of the hinge, assuming that the female hinges are mounted to the elevator. after securing the hinge bolt, place/glue small pieces of foam into the cutout, sand to shape and glass over. 2- My hinge gap is the thickness of one layer of 60-grit sandpaper. I wrapped 60-grit sandpaper around the leading edge of the elevator with the grit towards the horizonal stabilizer and moved the elevator up and down until I had the clearance that I desired. I hope this helps. Bobby Muse N122B - Wimberley, TX mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Canopy lock From: Bobby Muse Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:19:23 -0600 X-Message-Number: 8 At 03:00 PM 01/08/2000 -0500, you wrote: >Mike: > >What I meant was a locking system with a key, something that would afford >me piece of mind while it was on the ground and I was in the diner. 10/4 >. > >Kenny >________________________________________________________________ > I used a simple drawer/cabinet lock, but I did purchase it along with a Cessa style mag/inigtion switch with matching keys from Wicks or A/C Spruce. Of course the drawer lock arm was too short. I cut a small slot in the canopy frame and a matching slot in the top longeron. I made the lock arm with a slot near the end of it so that catches a pin(nail) placed in the slot from the side of the top longeron. Bobby Muse N122B - Wimberley, TX mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Canopy lock From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 17:15:28 -0500 X-Message-Number: 9 Thanks Bob, Sounds like something to consider. Will you be at Lakeland in April? Your Dad seems to be a regular, I,m already looking for my airline tickets. Kenny W. On Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:19:23 -0600 Bobby Muse writes: > At 03:00 PM 01/08/2000 -0500, you wrote: > >Mike: > > > >What I meant was a locking system with a key, something that would > afford > >me piece of mind while it was on the ground and I was in the diner. > 10/4 > >. > > > >Kenny > >________________________________________________________________ > > > > I used a simple drawer/cabinet lock, but I did purchase it along > with a > Cessa style mag/inigtion switch with matching keys from Wicks or A/C > Spruce. Of course the drawer lock arm was too short. I cut a small > slot > in the canopy frame and a matching slot in the top longeron. I made > the > lock arm with a slot near the end of it so that catches a pin(nail) > placed > in the slot from the side of the top longeron. > > > > Bobby Muse > N122B - Wimberley, TX > mailto:bmuse@mindspring.com > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: klw1953@juno.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to > leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: bolts in elevator hinges From: "Richard McCall" Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 22:18:26 -0600 X-Message-Number: 10 Ross, How often do you have to access your bolts and why? Rich McCall ----- Original Message ----- From: Ross R. Youngblood To: KR-net users group Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2000 4:25 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: bolts in elevator hinges > George, > I did a lot of work to try and make my bolt access holes small, and a nice small > hinge gap. This makes it VERY difficult to install and remove bolts. UGH. > I have seen large gaps even on nice looking KR's this seems to be the > KISS solution. I decided to not have holes like pictured in the website > below, and I kick myself every time I work with a needle nose pliers to > get my AN3 bolts in/out. > http://www.teleport.com/~rossy/N8575C.html > (scroll down to see elevator gap for hinge bolt) > > -- Ross > > george robertson wrote: > > > hi guys; > > can someone help me out? I have never been able to understand how to insert the bolts in the elevator hinges after the elevator and stabilizer are glassed. i remember looking at some small hinge gaps at covington, just what are the hinge gaps some of you guys are getting? bobby muse? > > thanks > > george > > > > --- > > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: planecraft@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: looking From: "The LeTempt Family" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:57:22 -0600 X-Message-Number: 11 Keith, You can check out the "Find the Builder Page" at ttp://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/mapframe.html It looks like it has not been updated in a while, but you might have some luck. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: Keith Crawford To: KR-net users group Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 11:38 AM Subject: [kr-net] looking > Hi KR fans. > I am looking for a web site that will give me the name of kr builders in any > state. > or if anyone knows builders in michigan. > thank you > keith crawford > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: texasquadj@prodigy.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Modification From: "saunders" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 20:09:45 -0500 X-Message-Number: 12 I'm putting this question out for the benefit of a friend who does not have on-line access. He has been given a KR2 in the basic boat stage and he's wondering how feasible it would be to convert this into a 2S. The center spars are not there, the stabilizer spar is in place, and the plywood is completed. I've suggested the new wing design to him. Any comment will be appreciated. Thanks Michael Saunders Cumberland, Md saunders@hereintown.net 40% ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR Simulation with MS Flight Sim 2000 Disappointing From: "Walter Lounsbery" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 20:34:03 -0800 X-Message-Number: 13 ...and that's about it in a nutshell. I heard that Microsoft Flight Simulator 2000 Pro had a flight dynamics editor and an aircraft editor. So I sent off to Egghead to get the software for a quick, sophisticated KR simulation. Unfortunately, the flight performance and dynamics are all set by about ten sliders on a small form! Not exactly the way to enter those moments of inertia and so forth. I don't see how to configure the engine at all. The rest of the product is great, but don't look for a technical simulation. Maybe I'll have to fire up the old FORTRAN compiler someday and make a real simulation we can all play with in a technical way. Walt Lounsbery ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr-net digest: January 11, 2000 From: "Mark Langford" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 21:04:40 -0600 X-Message-Number: 14 > I am sure that you would agree that others should not be scabbing on pieces of > wood onto their airplane to make things right. I prefer to call it "laminating". You know, like we do to our main spar caps to turn a 1x2 into a 2x2? I'm thrilled that some of you guys got lucky enough to have your tail posts turn out "perfect", but I assure you, that doesn't always happen. I used the sand paper on the paint stick trick to get a perfect fit too, but it was difficult to see if the tail post was really vertical (left to right) until I turned it right side up later on and could establish level and plumb lines. Maybe I'm just not being careful enough building my plane. And now that I've "scabbed" the tail post, I'll probably never be able to sell it... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: kr-net digest: January 11, 2000 From: Mike Mims Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 19:40:15 -0800 X-Message-Number: 15 Mark Langford wrote: > > > I am sure that you would agree that others should not be scabbing on > pieces of > > wood onto their airplane to make things right. > > I prefer to call it "laminating". Mine was off a bit too. Funny how the scraps from the spar caps were a perfect fit to bring everything into alignment! When I leveled my fuselage after turning it back over I found that when I held a plumb from the top of the vertical spar the line was off a little more than 1/8 inch from top to bottom. I glued on a sliver and sanded it perfect. Trust me you get better than the 12 to 1 ratio or what ever the FAA used for certified airplanes. Maybe a better way to do this is to glue in a non-tapered vertical spar then level the plan and trim the spar to the right size? -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: c-85 on ebay From: John Esch Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:05:58 -0800 X-Message-Number: 16 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------D8C83CD84CA57CE4E39305F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit anyone looking for a C-85 Cont, there is one for bids on Ebay at http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=235380181 5 days left on the bid as of 01/12/00 enjoy John F. Esch Salem, OR --------------D8C83CD84CA57CE4E39305F0 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="jfesch.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for John Esch Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="jfesch.vcf" begin:vcard n:Esch;John x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:jfesch@home.com fn:John F. Esch end:vcard --------------D8C83CD84CA57CE4E39305F0-- --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com