From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: January 16, 2000 Date: Monday, January 17, 2000 12:24 AM KR-NET Digest2 for Sunday, January 16, 2000. 1. Re: Paint removal 2. Re: Engine Timing 3. Re: Engine Timing 4. Re: Paint removal 5. Re: Engine Timing 6. Gas consumption 7. Re: Canopy Plexiglass 8. Re: Paint removal 9. Re: spinner question 10. Re: Engine Timing 11. Re: Boat for Sale 12. Re: Boat for Sale 13. Re: Boat for Sale 14. Decal 15. Re: canopy latching 16. Re: Gathering location 17. Re: Boat for Sale 18. Re: HELP 19. New Member 20. Re: Engine Timing 21. Re: Boat for Sale 22. Re: spinner question 23. Re: Decal 24. Re: New Member 25. Re: canopy latching 26. Re: canopy latching 27. Re: Engine Timing 28. Re: Engine Timing 29. Re: Gas consumption 30. Re: Gas consumption 31. Re: Gas consumption ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Paint removal From: Mike Mims Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 08:59:50 -0800 X-Message-Number: 1 Greg S Martin wrote: > > Question. Is there a chemical paint remover that will not bother epoxy? > I need to take the finish off of my KR-1 as I don't want to ad the weight > of a new paint job to the existing still in place. The chemical process is called lacticide. The name comes from the build up of lactic acid in your arm muscles from "sanding" all that paint off. Just kidding, I think the best way to remove paint from composite aircraft is sanding it off. Be careful not to sand in one place too long as you do not want to heat up the surface. If you try a chemical process make sure you test a small area first. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Engine Timing From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 11:52:19 -0600 X-Message-Number: 2 Although I've yet to see my previous message appear, I need to correct something that I said earlier (before somebody else does it for me), the RPMs at which max advance is "all in". I was talking about early "real, live" VW distributors, and was conjuring all that up from memory. I've since dug up the advance curves for 5 different Bosch distributors from the June 92 issue of Hot VWs, and it shows the Brazilian 009 topping out at 2700 RPM, the German 009 at 2250, the 050 at 3200, and the 010 at 2700. So your 009 is fine for your RPM. I'll scan this and post it later. One other thing I mentioned is the 2 degrees of retard built into most VW distributors for the number three cylinder. That's done by the distributor cam lobes and wouldn't affect the Compu-Fire, which I would assume wouldn't have that retard for #3 (but it could, for all I know). I didn't mention anything about mags because I really didn't want to go there, but I don't think I'd use the Compufire if it were the ONLY ignition system. Although they are pretty reliable, there's nothing more reliable that a good old set of points. In all the years I drove points type cars, the only instant failure I ever had was right after a tune-up where I wiped off all the grease off of the cam lobes, and forgot to put the new grease back! The rubbing block heated and up and broke off, right in the middle of the Sunshine Skyway bridge (you don't forget stuff like that!). The only "bad" condensor I ever saw came out of the box new, and it took me quite a while to figure out why I had no spark. I'm with William Wynne on this one. If you can only have one ignition system, plain old points are hard to beat for reliablility, and that's exactly what I'm using on my Corvair. But I have a Compufire on my Karmann Ghia, and I love it. It sure does burn a lot of current though... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Engine Timing From: michael beck Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 08:27:23 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 3 I'm using just that combination in my bug. time it 30' btdc at high rpm. Mike Beck, Sedro Woolley, Wa --- Stanley Mello wrote: > > I have a completed strecheded KR2- 1 That I have > just completed and it has > passed the FAA inspection. I am now doing taxi tests > and am having a > problem with a low static RPM. The Engine is an > 1835cc with a 52X46 Props > Inc. propeller. With this prop it should turn 2950 > RPM but I have only > 2700. My ignition is a Compufire driven by an 009 > distributor. I have not > been able to find accurate information as to what > is the proper way to time > this combination. Does anyone have any info? > > Thanks > > Melloflyer > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at > http://www.hotmail.com > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: > kr2s2000@yahoo.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to > leave-kr-net-165333G@telelists.com > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Paint removal From: "Parley Byington" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 08:30:03 -0800 X-Message-Number: 4 Greg I don't know of a chemical but I heard of a process using light flashes that burns the paint off really quick. This process used some sort of a high wattage stobe light that was concentrated in a small area, typically six inch diameter. You may search the web to find mored details, I think there was several small companies using this process and maybe you could build such a device or see how much they would charge. Sorry I don't have more info on it but it is an idea. Experimentals are all about ideas, right? Regards Parley (N54PB) KR-2 parley@anv.net Henderson NV. -----Original Message----- From: Greg S Martin To: KR-net users group Date: Saturday, January 15, 2000 11:48 PM Subject: [kr-net] Paint removal >Question. Is there a chemical paint remover that will not bother epoxy? >I need to take the finish off of my KR-1 as I don't want to ad the weight >of a new paint job to the existing still in place. > >Or should I just not worry about. > >Happy building and/or flying > >Greg Martin, idrawtobuild@juno.com >1783 Glenwood Court >Bakersfield, California 93306 >work 661-861-0570, fax 861-0517 >home 661-872-8781, fax 871-1822 > >--- >You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: parley@anv.net >To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17599G@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Engine Timing From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 07:28:49 -0600 X-Message-Number: 5 Stanley Mello wrote: > My ignition is a Compufire driven by an 009 distributor. I have not > been able to find accurate information as to what is the proper way to time > this combination. Does anyone have any info? The 009 has a total of 8.5 degrees of advance, which after being multifplied by 2 for crank advance is 17 degrees. That means that if you want to run a total advance of 27 degrees (which is about right for an airplane, maybe 28) you'd need to set the timing statically at 10 degrees BTDC (before top dead center), which is typical for cars as well. If you don't have timing marks, you can figure out where to put them by ascertaining where top dead center is (a screwdriver in the spark plug hole for number one, or better yet, a dial indicator) and mark the average of the two places where the piston starts moving again. The best way to do this is with a dial indicator with the head off, pressing on the piston top, and mark TDC on the back of the prop hub or flywheel where you can see it later. Then you can use an "advancing" timing light (dialed in to 27 degrees) to show the timing mark (dynamically) when the engine is wide open throttle. Watch that prop though! See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/1aug98yp.jpg to see Jim Hill doing exactly that with my timing light Dynamically is certainly the most accurate way to do this, but you can get pretty close (assuming your distributor advance is working properly) by setting it at 10 degrees BTDC with the engine off, and then just check it at WOT. You can also add a mark at 27 degrees BTDC and use a normal timing light (non-advance) but you'll have to use pi and the diameter of your prop hub (or pulley) to figure the circumferential distance around the hub (or pulley) to find the proper location to put it. (Diameter x 3.14) x (27/360), which is 1.4 inches for a 6 inch prop hub. The problem with the 009 is that the advance is not all "in" until 3500 rpm, which is another good reason to check it dyanamically. Unless you're hitting 3500, your distributor is never advancing all the way. The 010's advance is all in by 2500 rpm, and would be a better choice for you. The 050 is the same as the 010, except it doesn't retard the number 3 cylinder 2 degrees (which all stock distributors do to keep number 3 a little cooler). The Compufire doesn't factor into the equation. It just fires when the "electronic points" tell it to, so all other distributor characteristics are the same. Excellent choice, the Compufire. My bet is that a lot of engines out there are not living up to their potential because the timing is not set correctly. So easy to do, and so important to power output and engine longevity... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Gas consumption From: RFG842@aol.com Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 10:22:22 EST X-Message-Number: 6 Has anyone read the article in the latest Kitplanes on the RV 9 with a 108 Lyc that burns 2 gal per hour. With a 34 gal tank it has a range of 17 hours?? I'm looking for a carb. With that one I should be able to get my Type 4 down to about a quart per hour. With no wing tanks and a 1 1/2 gal header tank I should be OK. Anyone find a source for shielded 12 ga.? At nearly a buck a foot, Wicks and A/S is a little rich. Radio Shack and my local electronics shop doesn't carry it. Tnks, Bob ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Canopy Plexiglass From: WGre933266@aol.com Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:05:06 EST X-Message-Number: 7 To remove the adhesive residue .Try some "Unmask" adhesive remover from Aircraft spruse & specialty co. p/n 03-55100.....$4.80 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Paint removal From: Mike Mims Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 08:59:50 -0800 X-Message-Number: 8 Greg S Martin wrote: > > Question. Is there a chemical paint remover that will not bother epoxy? > I need to take the finish off of my KR-1 as I don't want to ad the weight > of a new paint job to the existing still in place. The chemical process is called lacticide. The name comes from the build up of lactic acid in your arm muscles from "sanding" all that paint off. Just kidding, I think the best way to remove paint from composite aircraft is sanding it off. Be careful not to sand in one place too long as you do not want to heat up the surface. If you try a chemical process make sure you test a small area first. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: spinner question From: Steen8751A@aol.com Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 13:30:53 EST X-Message-Number: 9 Dad has skull cap spinners on both of his Luscombes. They both have small Continentals, A-65 and C-90. Just look at your prop hub and decide which OD size will mate up best.The U shape attachment bracket attaches to one prop bolt on each side and to the spinner with a single sheet metal screw through a tinnerman in the center of the spinner dome. The bracket can probably be adjusted to fit your bolt pattern. If not, you can make a new bracket in 1/2 hour. I just made a bracket from scratch a couple of weeks ago. Doug Steen Winchester, VA ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Engine Timing From: "Mark Langford" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:12:18 -0600 X-Message-Number: 10 Well, since I sent this at 6:30 this morning and Lyris was down then, here it is again. It did give me the opportunity to fix my mistake though! If the first one shows up eventually, you have my deepest apologies. At least this one's more correct than the first one anyway... -------------------------------- Stanley Mellow wrote: > My ignition is a Compufire driven by an 009 distributor. I have not > been able to find accurate information as to what is the proper way to time > this combination. Does anyone have any info? The 009 has a total of 8.5 degrees of advance, which after being multifplied by 2 for crank advance is 17 degrees. That means that if you want to run a total advance of 27 degrees (which is about right for an airplane, maybe 28) you'd need to set the timing statically at 10 degrees BTDC (before top dead center), which is typical for cars as well. If you don't have timing marks, you can figure out where to put them by ascertaining where top dead center is (a screwdriver in the spark plug hole for number one, or better yet, a dial indicator) and mark the average of the two places where the piston starts moving again. The best way to do this is with a dial indicator with the head off, pressing on the piston top, and mark TDC on the back of the prop hub or flywheel where you can see it later. Then you can use an "advancing" timing light (dialed in to 27 degrees) to show the timing mark (dynamically) when the engine is wide open throttle. Watch that prop though! See http://home.hiwaay.net/langford/1aug98yp.jpg to see Jim Hill doing exactly that with my timing light Dynamically is certainly the most accurate way to do this, but you can get pretty close (assuming your distributor advance is working properly) by setting it at 10 degrees BTDC with the engine off, and then just check it at WOT. You can also add a mark at 27 degrees BTDC and use a normal timing light (non-advance) but you'll have to use pi and the diameter of your prop hub (or pulley) to figure the circumferential distance around the hub (or pulley) to find the proper location to put it. (Diameter x 3.14) x (27/360), which is 1.4 inches for a 6 inch prop hub. The problem with the 009 is that the advance is not all "in" until 2700 rpm (for the Brazilian model, 2250 for the German version), which is another good reason to check it dyanamically. Unless you're hitting 2700, your distributor is never advancing all the way. The Compufire doesn't factor into the equation. It just fires when the "electronic points" tell it to, so all other distributor characteristics are the same. My bet is that a lot of engines out there are not living up to their potential because the timing is not set correctly. So easy to do, and so important to power output, fuel consumption, and engine longevity... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Boat for Sale From: AviationMech@aol.com Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 05:36:37 EST X-Message-Number: 11 I have not set a price and will gladly do so after discussing the project with you. The price will probably reflect the cost of parts and very little for workmanship. I need a better inventory of included parts, which I'll do today as well as take some pictures to send you. Thanks for the interest. Are you a current builder, or still in the wanta be stage. OL Robbins AviationMech@AOL.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Boat for Sale From: Lon V Boothby Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:17:47 -0800 X-Message-Number: 12 I am still a wanabe. And I am in the wrong part of the country to easily purchase your baot. I live in Spokane WA. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Boat for Sale From: "Capps Family" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:03:45 -0600 X-Message-Number: 13 Come on Guys, can we please keep this personal Chit Chat off line and private Larry -----Original Message----- From: bounce-kr-net-121858@telelists.com [mailto:bounce-kr-net-121858@telelists.com]On Behalf Of Lon V Boothby Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 5:18 PM To: KR-net users group Subject: [kr-net] Re: Boat for Sale I am still a wanabe. And I am in the wrong part of the country to easily purchase your baot. I live in Spokane WA. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: capps@mediaone.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-121858V@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Decal From: "Ross R. Youngblood" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:30:33 +0000 X-Message-Number: 14 To all who posted replys regarding decal artwork. A KR-netter (Jeffrey A. LeTempt) sent me a converted file, and simultaniously the vendor figured a way to process .gif and .jpg files. I saw the proof sheet Friday, and all that was missing was the www.krnet.org on the bottom. They new proofs should be ready Tuesday. I am also getting quotes on iron-on transfers. -- Regards Ross ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: canopy latching From: "Ross R. Youngblood" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:35:22 +0000 X-Message-Number: 15 Chris, I am working on a pin latch system which is similar to what is described in Tony Bengilis' books. (available via KR-net Bookstore aka Amazon.com -- a plug for this supports KR-net). At any rate, my system is not yet functional so I will withold details until I know if it works. -- Ross Christopher Stewart wrote: > how is everyone latching their canopy, i saw where someone said that it > should be able to be opened from the outside too, how are you guys doing > this?,and what setups? > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17523X@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Gathering location From: "Ross R. Youngblood" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:34:05 +0000 X-Message-Number: 16 Ken, Thanks for this information. I flew to the gathering in '98 via American Airlines & Rental Car. But, had I flown my KR, I would have won both youngest pilot and longest distance flown. (I lived in Oregon at the time.) So there is incentive for us new folks to fly across the country. -- Ross Ken Jordan wrote: > My two cents: > 1)The Gathering is usually in mid-America so Jeanette can visit her > relatives in Indiana. > 2)It's easy to fly commercial to the nearest big city, then rent a > car and drive to the Gathering. Been there, done that. No excuses > for Californians to feel 'left out'. Many have come from Alaska, > BC, and last year Scotland! > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17523X@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Boat for Sale From: Lon V Boothby Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 18:39:45 -0800 X-Message-Number: 17 Do you really consider trying to buy or sell a KR too personal too discuss it on the KRnet? ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: HELP From: "Ross R. Youngblood" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:46:13 +0000 X-Message-Number: 18 Get a plastic milk jug, and some clear tygon tubing. I tied the tubing around the handle so that enough went into the bottom of the jug. Then I added about 1 gal of water and alcohol with food coloring. Then the other end of the hose (about 15' or more) I taped to a piece of 5/8" spruce stock about 1' long. You can mark the water level and use a steel rule to see how much off you are level length and width wise. The other thing you may wish to check periodicly are diagonal measurments from the tips of the spars to the tail post, and to the center of the front firewall. This is recommended in Tony Bengilis books to keep the plane straight, and it seems to have worked for me. -- Ross Edwin Blocher wrote: > I've been working 2 days on fitting the tail post. I got the longerons > all cut and fitted with reference to the firewall. Now, how in the > world do you keep everything in place and how do you clamp it and keep > everything square and level?EdEd Blocher > Moody, AL > mailto: kr-n899eb@mindspring.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: New Member From: "Cliff Cast" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 13:11:17 -0800 X-Message-Number: 19 Hi gang, I am a new member of KR-net. I just bought a complete KR2-S from a second owner. It will arrive next week. I have a couple questions: 1. The tail number is N284RV. It was built by Miller/Vanlandingham (this is on the AC). Does anyone know these guys, I'd like to call them and chat about the plane? 2. This plane has not flown in a couple years. I will be putting avionics in it when it first gets here. Plus I am having an A/P friend annual it. Any pointers on what I should pay special attention to? It has a VW 1835 in it H.A.P.I. Conversion (what ever that is), tuned exhaust, slick mag, elevator trim., Electric elevator boost, electronic fuel boost pump and transfer pump, Retractable gear (was converted for S series), electric starter, Gel battery, Sterba prop. 3. Also, what are the rules on giving instruction in an experimental like this? If a person wanted to buy one or get time in one can I do that as a CFI??? I called a FSDO, but they had a bit of confusion on the issue as well. I am waiting on a call back from them, but was wondering if ya'll had experience with these issues. Thanks guys, -----------(Cliff Cast - CFI ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Engine Timing From: GARYKR2@cs.com Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 22:13:18 EST X-Message-Number: 20 I an using the 009 with points, so I can't help there. But, check your Tach to be sure it is reading correct. Find a R/C guy, and ask to have him come out and hold his hand held behind the prop. This will give you a true reading. He'll have new stories to tell then at the club. My tach was off by 300rpm[reading low] when at high power settings. Worked that problem for over a year thinking it was the engine not turning up. Start with the simple and then go deep. Gary Hinkle Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Boat for Sale From: larry flesner Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 21:21:27 -0600 X-Message-Number: 21 At 06:39 PM 1/16/00 -0800, you wrote: >Do you really consider trying to buy or sell a KR too personal too >discuss it on the KRnet? >============================snip============================== Lon and fellow netters, After the first posting of a KR or related item for sale or wanted to buy, please reply to the individual personally and not by hitting the "reply" button. I'd rather not have to wade through 15 e-mails like "how much you want for it?" and "what kind of shape is it in?" and "where are you located?". or , well you get the picture. Thanks, Larry Flesner ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: spinner question From: GARYKR2@cs.com Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 22:29:11 EST X-Message-Number: 22 VW's prop is too small for these spinners. That's why it's not listed. You need a spinner that would just fit on the head of a large cat. Get your calipers and go find a large, over weight cat sitting on someone's front porch. Give him/her a hand full of catnip, wait a few minutes 'till the cat is spaced out, then check the size of the skull. That's the size spinner you need. You could also use a cat that's along the road side, as long as it's head hasn't been run over. Gary Hinkle Middletown, Pa garykr2@cs.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Decal From: "Christopher Stewart" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 22:26:23 -0500 X-Message-Number: 23 Ross, let me know when you get the decals made, I would like to purchase a few of them, I think it will look good on my the rudder of my plane, Chris Stewart Whitesville WV KR-1XL N823CS(reserved) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ross R. Youngblood" To: "KR-net users group" Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 2:30 PM Subject: [kr-net] Decal > To all who posted replys regarding decal artwork. A KR-netter (Jeffrey > A. LeTempt) sent me a converted file, and simultaniously the vendor > figured > a way to process .gif and .jpg files. I saw the proof sheet Friday, and > > all that was missing was the www.krnet.org on the bottom. They > new proofs should be ready Tuesday. I am also getting quotes on > iron-on transfers. > > -- Regards > Ross > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: cstewart@kvinet.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-162239E@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: New Member From: "Joe Beyer" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:50:39 -0800 X-Message-Number: 24 Hi Cliff. As far as I know not for compensation or hire as for the dual. The 1834cc HAPI engine is essentially a converted auto engine which is what I fly behind.........Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Cliff Cast To: KR-net users group Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 1:11 PM Subject: [kr-net] New Member > Hi gang, > > I am a new member of KR-net. I just bought a complete KR2-S from a second > owner. It will arrive next week. > > I have a couple questions: > > 1. The tail number is N284RV. It was built by Miller/Vanlandingham (this > is on the AC). Does anyone know these guys, I'd like to call them and chat > about the plane? > > 2. This plane has not flown in a couple years. I will be putting avionics > in it when it first gets here. Plus I am having an A/P friend annual it. > Any pointers on what I should pay special attention to? > > It has a VW 1835 in it H.A.P.I. Conversion (what ever that is), tuned > exhaust, slick mag, elevator trim., Electric elevator boost, electronic > fuel boost pump and transfer pump, Retractable gear (was converted for S > series), electric starter, Gel battery, Sterba prop. > > 3. Also, what are the rules on giving instruction in an experimental like > this? If a person wanted to buy one or get time in one can I do that as a > CFI??? I called a FSDO, but they had a bit of confusion on the issue as > well. I am waiting on a call back from them, but was wondering if ya'll > had experience with these issues. > > Thanks guys, > > -----------(Cliff Cast - CFI > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: joejbeyer@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-173184A@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: canopy latching From: "Joe Beyer" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:12:22 -0800 X-Message-Number: 25 Hi Guys: When I installed my canopy I made things according to the plans, as they were in the '70s, which called out for cam lock fasteners. The FAA requires a means of access from the outside in case of an emergency. I used a piece of cotehangar with the end bent into a loop and braded with .032 saftey wire, which goes through the aluminum piano hinge. When you want to remove the canopy, you just pull the looped end and that seperates the canopy from the upper longeron. The canopy should be safteyed from the inside in case you takeoff and forget to latch it. Use the cam lock fasteners as per plans. Don't drill through the upper longerons for any reason!.........Joe Beyer ----- Original Message ----- From: Ross R. Youngblood To: KR-net users group Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 11:35 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: canopy latching > Chris, > I am working on a pin latch system which is similar to what is > described in Tony Bengilis' books. (available via KR-net Bookstore > aka Amazon.com -- a plug for this supports KR-net). > > At any rate, my system is not yet functional so I will withold details > until I know if it works. > > -- Ross > > Christopher Stewart wrote: > > > how is everyone latching their canopy, i saw where someone said that it > > should be able to be opened from the outside too, how are you guys doing > > this?,and what setups? > > > > --- > > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17523X@telelists.com > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: joejbeyer@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-173184A@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: canopy latching From: "Joe Beyer" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:25:06 -0800 X-Message-Number: 26 Hi Ross: The system I use is the camlock fastener method as decribed in the plans. The hinge is on the right. It's a piano hinge with a piece of cotehangar wire with a loop bent on the end. The end is braded with .032 saftewire and is accessable from the outeside as called for by the FAA. There should always be an internal saftey lock to prevent the canopy from opening in fiight. Just in case you forget to latch it before takeoff, which I almost did once..........Joe Beyer ----- Original Message ----- From: Ross R. Youngblood To: KR-net users group Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 11:35 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: canopy latching > Chris, > I am working on a pin latch system which is similar to what is > described in Tony Bengilis' books. (available via KR-net Bookstore > aka Amazon.com -- a plug for this supports KR-net). > > At any rate, my system is not yet functional so I will withold details > until I know if it works. > > -- Ross > > Christopher Stewart wrote: > > > how is everyone latching their canopy, i saw where someone said that it > > should be able to be opened from the outside too, how are you guys doing > > this?,and what setups? > > > > --- > > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: rossy@teleport.com > > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17523X@telelists.com > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: joejbeyer@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-173184A@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Engine Timing From: "Joe Beyer" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:34:24 -0800 X-Message-Number: 27 I always thought that the .009 dist. was set at 4 deg. As the engine RPM increases the flyweights gradually increase the advance up to 28deg. (not to exceed). It's always worked on my cars. Go with a mabneto.........Joe Beyer ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Langford To: KR-net users group Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 5:28 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Engine Timing > Stanley Mello wrote: > > > My ignition is a Compufire driven by an 009 distributor. I have not > > been able to find accurate information as to what is the proper way to > time > > this combination. Does anyone have any info? > > The 009 has a total of 8.5 degrees of advance, which after being multifplied > by 2 for crank advance is 17 degrees. That means that if you want to run a > total advance of 27 degrees (which is about right for an airplane, maybe 28) > you'd need to set the timing statically at 10 degrees BTDC (before top dead > center), which is typical for cars as well. If you don't have timing marks, > you can figure out where to put them by ascertaining where top dead center > is (a screwdriver in the spark plug hole for number one, or better yet, a > dial indicator) and mark the average of the two places where the piston > starts moving again. The best way to do this is with a dial indicator with > the head off, pressing on the piston top, and mark TDC on the back of the > prop hub or flywheel where you can see it later. > > Then you can use an "advancing" timing light (dialed in to 27 degrees) to > show the timing mark (dynamically) when the engine is wide open throttle. > Watch that prop though! See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/1aug98yp.jpg to > see Jim Hill doing exactly that with my timing light Dynamically is > certainly the most accurate way to do this, but you can get pretty close > (assuming your distributor advance is working properly) by setting it at 10 > degrees BTDC with the engine off, and then just check it at WOT. You can > also add a mark at 27 degrees BTDC and use a normal timing light > (non-advance) but you'll have to use pi and the diameter of your prop hub > (or pulley) to figure the circumferential distance around the hub (or > pulley) to find the proper location to put it. (Diameter x 3.14) x > (27/360), which is 1.4 inches for a 6 inch prop hub. > > The problem with the 009 is that the advance is not all "in" until 3500 rpm, > which is another good reason to check it dyanamically. Unless you're > hitting 3500, your distributor is never advancing all the way. The 010's > advance is all in by 2500 rpm, and would be a better choice for you. The > 050 is the same as the 010, except it doesn't retard the number 3 cylinder 2 > degrees (which all stock distributors do to keep number 3 a little cooler). > > The Compufire doesn't factor into the equation. It just fires when the > "electronic points" tell it to, so all other distributor characteristics are > the same. Excellent choice, the Compufire. > > My bet is that a lot of engines out there are not living up to their > potential because the timing is not set correctly. So easy to do, and so > important to power output and engine longevity... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: joejbeyer@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-173184A@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Engine Timing From: Mike Mims Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:32:18 -0800 X-Message-Number: 28 Stanley Mello wrote: > The Engine is an 1835cc with a 52X46 Props Inc. propeller. With this prop it should turn 2950 RPM but I have only 2700. >>>> Be advised that Props Inc. is notorious for measuring prop pitch in a strange way that I have yet to figure. We have a 2300cc VW with a 52X42 Props Inc. prop on it and it can only turn about 2750 static. This same engine was tested with a couple of Ed Sterba props. One being 52x48 and the other a 52X50. In both cases the static RPM was 3000. BTW This engine was dynoed at 80hp @ 3400 rpm. We sent the prop back to Props Inc. and he said nothing was wrong with the pitch. We had him take some pitch out and now get 2850 static. I have since heard this same issue come up with others who are using Props Inc. Props. I bet your timing is fine your prop just has too much bite. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Gas consumption From: Mike Mims Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:34:10 -0800 X-Message-Number: 29 RFG842@aol.com wrote: > > Has anyone read the article in the latest Kitplanes on the RV 9 with a 108 > Lyc that burns 2 gal per hour. With a 34 gal tank it has a range of 17 > hours?? > Well it takes about 4.75 gallons an hour to make 100hp so I aint buying that one. It has to be a misprint. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Gas consumption From: "Larry Jacks" Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 21:54:15 -0700 X-Message-Number: 30 It isn't necessarily a misprint. The article mentioned that the RV-9 would do something like 170 MPH on 115 HP. The 2 GPH figure was at 80 MPH, so the engine might've only been putting out about 25-30 HP. With the plane's relatively high aspect ratio, it wouldn't take a lot of energy to keep it in the air. I don't know about you but I certainly wouldn't want to poke along at 80 MPH for 17 hours. Neither my butt nor by bladder would be up to that challenge. Larry Jacks Colorado Springs ljacks@pcisys.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Mims To: KR-net users group Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2000 9:34 PM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Gas consumption > RFG842@aol.com wrote: > > > > Has anyone read the article in the latest Kitplanes on the RV 9 with a 108 > > Lyc that burns 2 gal per hour. With a 34 gal tank it has a range of 17 > > hours?? > > > > Well it takes about 4.75 gallons an hour to make 100hp so I aint buying > that one. It has to be a misprint. > > -- > zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz > Micheal Mims > Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( > http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ > mirror @ > http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ > http://members.home.com/mikemims/ > Aliso Viejo CA > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: ljacks@pcisys.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-118677L@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Gas consumption From: "w.g. kirkland" Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 00:23:58 -0500 X-Message-Number: 31 Large ships use shielded wiring or a brass braid for a ground that also acts as shielding so you might try a ships chandler but what are you using it for in a light aircraft? W.G. KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ---------- > From: RFG842@aol.com > To: KR-net users group > Subject: [kr-net] Gas consumption > Date: Sunday, January 16, 2000 10:22 AM > > Has anyone read the article in the latest Kitplanes on the RV 9 with a 108 > Lyc that burns 2 gal per hour. With a 34 gal tank it has a range of 17 > hours?? > > I'm looking for a carb. With that one I should be able to get my Type 4 down > to about a quart per hour. With no wing tanks and a 1 1/2 gal header tank I > should be OK. > > Anyone find a source for shielded 12 ga.? At nearly a buck a foot, Wicks and > A/S is a little rich. Radio Shack and my local electronics shop doesn't > carry it. > > Tnks, Bob > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: kirkland@vianet.on.ca > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-39277K@telelists.com --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com