From: "KR-net users group digest" To: "kr-net digest recipients" Subject: kr-net digest: January 27, 2000 Date: Friday, January 28, 2000 1:51 AM KR-NET Digest2 for Thursday, January 27, 2000. 1. Re: fuel flow 2. Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long 3. Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long 4. Magnet heaters on VW 5. Re: revflow 6. RE: Engine Block Warmer 7. Re: Corvair Engine 8. Re: Electric engine heaters 9. Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long 10. Re: Electric engine heaters 11. Re: fuel flow 12. Fuel Flow 13. Re: Corvair Engine 14. Re: SPINS 15. Cracked VW Case 16. Re: Cracked VW Case 17. Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long 18. Re: fuel flow 19. Quick Disconnects 20. Re: engine block heater 21. Re: Cracked VW Case 22. Re: Fuel Flow 23. Re: engine block heater 24. Re: Cracked VW Case 25. Re: engine block heater 26. KR-2 0-200 prop 27. Corvair Location 28. Sending sensors 29. Re: SPINS 30. Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long 31. RE: Corvair Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: fuel flow From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 07:24:26 EST X-Message-Number: 1 In a message dated 1/27/00 1:19:23 AM Eastern Standard Time, mikemims@home.com writes: << Also after reading up a bit on gascolators I have decided I might do without one anyway. Sure its a filter and sure its a water trap but all my tanks have low point drains as well as filters. >> I guess there's some explaining here.. Since I am using only a header tank and my sump point is used only for my fuel line, I have no way of of getting the "junk" out of the system other than the gascolator. I mounted mine on the lower pass. side of the firewall so I can get to it without removing the cowl..........ala certified aircraft. Besides, we've always checked the gascolator..............that's the way it's always been done, so it must me right.............right. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 08:07:42 EST X-Message-Number: 2 In a message dated 1/27/00 1:24:48 AM Eastern Standard Time, mikemims@home.com writes: << I think this instructor was showing his inexperience in the airplane (or higher performance airplanes for that matter) >> OK, gang it's time for me to get on the soap box again: Let's do some thinking here since there has been some discussion lately about experimental crashes and the cause. When I fly an airplane for the first time, I read the manual about stalls and check the various configuration to determine where the speed should be with power, weight, gear, flaps........UHP......CG. And then I go out and stall it. You will find as a general statement that the more high performance you go the more dramatic the stall. The instructor on the Tomahawk was out of line. All GA aircraft must demonstrate there ability to recover from a stall using coordinate control movements that allow the aircraft to remain within the envelope of non structural damage and pitch and roll parameters. It's that simple. Now, some stall more aggressively. Believe me folks, they all don't stall the same but the recovery is the same, unload the wings and fly them. Remember the stall speed is not a fixed value it is affected by weight, load factor and power. It is most affected by variation in airplane loading. The angle of attach remains the same. I guess my biggest pet piv here is why are we taught to recover from a stall straight and level. Most stalls come from either accelerated stalls or low and slow/high bank angle attitudes. In an accelerated stall you will most likely feel the tail buffet. In a slow/hign bank stall the buffet will occur and the low wing will drop just like in straight and level.........except it's already "down there". In a 60 degree bank, the load factor on an airplane is multiplied by a factor of 2. Using a popular chart the stall speed of an airplane that stalls at 60 would be increased by a factor of 40%. The stall speed would now be 84. As it stalls in this configuration and you recover from a dive, as you pull up you are once again loading up the wings thereby once again increasing the load factor.......thereby once again, increasing the stall speed. You get the drift?? Now lets put this all into perspective. You take off in your new 41 hour KR with the airport lineman who has wanted to go for ride since day one. On climbout you get junk in that new Revflow carb. Not wanting to dent your new toy, you use that experiece you gained in the first 40 hours. You are now high pitch (remember the angle of attach in stall never changes), slow (speed has nothing to do with the load factor on the wings, all it does is make the radius of the turn larger) and heavy. You've only stalled this thing straight and level so you put the nose down, you look at the airspeed and figure, "it's OK I can make it back" so you crank the wings over, you just loaded them up. Instant stall.......you lose. Don't be afraid to go get some additional training above private, it'll make you a better pilot both book wise and experience wise. Sorry guys, little known fact.....I'm also a volunteer crash investigator with the NTSB (except during tax season). You wouldn't believe the number of accidents that fall into the above category. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:20:25 EST X-Message-Number: 3 In a message dated 1/27/00 8:10:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, KR2616TJ@aol.com writes: << to dent your new toy, you use that experiece you gained in the first 40 hours. You are now high pitch (remember the angle of attach in stall never changes), slow (speed has nothing to do with the load factor on the wings, all it does is make the radius of the turn larger) and heavy. You've only stalled this thing straight and level so you put the nose down, you look at the airspeed and figure, "it's OK I can make it back" so you crank the wings over, you just loaded them up. Instant stall.......you lose. >> Some clarification. Speed will increase the wing load factor, ie. in a dive or for example, turbulance at any given degree of control surface deflection. Thus your maneuvering speed. What I was saying in the above note is at a specific bank angle, the load factor will not increase as speed increases, as long as the bank angle remains the same. The radius of the turn will simply increase. That's why the Blackbird takes half a continent to do a 180. BTW, change attach.......to attack:-) Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Magnet heaters on VW From: GLB Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 08:40:40 -0700 X-Message-Number: 4 Magnets don't stick to nonferrous metals. Eugene GLB@cc.usu.edu ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: revflow From: Tom Raby GRE/ER PwrSysOp Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 09:59:33 -0600 X-Message-Number: 5 Pucker tighter might work. -----Original Message----- From: KR2616TJ@aol.com [mailto:KR2616TJ@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 11:44 AM To: KR-net users group Subject: [kr-net] Re: revflow In a message dated 1/26/00 9:17:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, richontheroad@hotmail.com writes: << What is the throat size on the standard revflow for the 1835 and the 2100's? >> If I'm not mistaken is either a 32mm or 34mm. I'm running a 32 on my 2180. These carbs. are a great example of simplicity. I bought mine a couple of years ago for $210.00. Mine has the great little "wide open" spring in case your throttle cable breaks............we all still remember how to regulate RPMs in this case don't we??? The number I have for Revmaster is 1-619-244-3074. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: traby@grenergy.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-103355K@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: Engine Block Warmer From: Tom Raby GRE/ER PwrSysOp Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:08:35 -0600 X-Message-Number: 6 I would think a megnetic heater would be no more of a threat than the magnet in the radio's speaker. I'd remove the heater before flight anyhow. The other concern would be storing the heater when not using it. Don't casually throw it in the cockpit where it could interfere with the magnetic compass. Tom -----Original Message----- From: Richard F. Collins [mailto:collinsr@comteck.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 5:27 PM To: KR-net users group Subject: [kr-net] Engine Block Warmer A few days ago, I asked the question: "If I were to attach an engine block heater to my VW 1915, would the magnet have any effect on the avionics." I didn't see any traffic on this and just wondered if it made it to the net, or was the question so stupid that no one took it seriously. I use an engine block warmer on my Ford 8N tractor, but, of course, the 8N doesn't have nav/com, turn and bank, ident, an iron compass or a GPS. I am VFR only, so I don't have a lot of sophisticated avionics, but the magnet that holds the heater in place is fairly strong. The advantage I saw in using this is that it could be set on a seven day timer, and attaching the element to the block would be the epitome of KISS. Your thoughts Rick Collins N886 KR "Little Beast" :) Mail to: collinsr@comteck.com --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: traby@grenergy.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-103355K@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Corvair Engine From: "The LeTempt Family" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:15:45 -0600 X-Message-Number: 7 Lon, Try the following web sites: Eric Ulmer - http://www.aviator.cc/ Ron Wanttaja - http://www.halcyon.com/wanttaja/ Aeroauto - http://member.aol.com/aeroauto/aeroauto.htm CorvAIRCRAFT - http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/index.html AirCamper - http://www.aircamper.org/Corvair.cfm William Wynne - http://www.omnispace.com/Corvair/ If you are really interested in putting the Corvair in your KR-2 you should subscribe to the corvaircraft mailing list. To SUBSCRIBE to the mailing list send email to the majordomo (majordomo@listserv.usm.edu) with "subscribe corvaircraft" in the body of the message (omit the quotation marks). Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: Lon V Boothby To: KR-net users group Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 3:05 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: Corvair Engine > Does anyone know of a site on the web that compares auto engine > weights/horsepower? > And what is ideal for a KR-2. > What does a 0-320 weigh? > Thanks in advance, Lon > Spokane, Wash > ________________________________________________________________ > YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! > Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! > Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: texasquadj@prodigy.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-166831R@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Electric engine heaters From: Tom Raby GRE/ER PwrSysOp Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:24:09 -0600 X-Message-Number: 8 I used to have a VW bus to which I added an electric engine heater. It was a normal aftermarket heater with an element that mounted underneath the oil screen if I remember correctly. You just removed the 6, or 8 (don't remember) screws that hold the oil screen cover on the bottom of the engine, placed the heater in position on the outside of the engine and put the screws back in. It was simple and didn't weigh much. Engine started fine at -30F. Didn't help with cabin heat at all though. My wife hated it. Finally sold it after incidents with leaky intakes, leaky fuel pump spraying gas on hot engine, leaky push rod tubes, and broken clutch cable. The kids loved it. Tom -----Original Message----- From: Laheze@aol.com [mailto:Laheze@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 7:45 PM To: KR-net users group Subject: [kr-net] Re: Electric engine heaters I think you could experiment to see if the magnets magnetic field would effect your compass by taking another compass that was not attached to your plane and see how close to the magnet you could place it before you see any deviation. Of course any steel will cause deviation so watch it close. Larry Howell laheze@aol.com --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: traby@grenergy.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-103355K@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long From: Mike Mims Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 08:03:32 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 9 Hey now! The Revflow would have gobbled the junk up and kept running. I think the carb in the story was an Ellison and the guy should have had an inline filter installed! :o) Good story and good info. --- KR2616TJ@aol.com wrote: >>On climbout you get junk in that new Revflow carb. >>>> __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Electric engine heaters From: Mike Mims Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 08:08:23 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 10 How do you get a magnetic heater to stick to a aluminum oil pan anyway?!?!? A better setup is to buy yourself one of those silicon heating pads made for just what your doing and silicon it to the oil pan. It weighs about 5oz and has no magnet. Check the AS&S catalog. --- Lon V Boothby wrote: > I have considered using the magnetic heater too. > But to save the weight and any magnetic problems, it > wouldn't be a big > thing to > simply pull the heater off before flight - is is > magnetic. > Lon > ________________________________________________________________ > YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! > Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! > Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE > software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: > mikemims@home.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to > leave-kr-net-163150J@telelists.com > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: fuel flow From: Tom Raby GRE/ER PwrSysOp Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:33:11 -0600 X-Message-Number: 11 I'd be careful about depending on a visual check of a fuel filter. I read somewhere (maybe the Dragonfly newsletters) that the contaminants, especially from a home made fiberlass fuel tank, are next to invisible even up to the point of plugging up a filter. The recommendation was to replace filters VERY often, like every few hours during the initial flight hours and inspect the filters after removal very carefully for conamination. Look how the fiberglass cloth turns invisible when you saturate it with resin. Tom -----Original Message----- From: Mike Mims [mailto:mikemims@home.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 9:07 PM To: KR-net users group Subject: [kr-net] Re: fuel flow KR2616TJ@aol.com wrote: > > Guys, I'm with Jeff on this one about fuel. I'm a strong believer in using a > gasculator have installed mine with a filter between it and my rev. carb. I > also installed a fuel pump..........why, just because. > Jeff, Dana, the guys at my airport with Ellisons found that the filter in the gascolator was not fine enough. Ellisons are extremely picky carburetors, good but picky. Also it was decided that a fram type plastic fuel filter installed inside the cockpit was a better option. This way they could monitor the contamination the first 100 hours just by taking a glance at the filter during preflight. Something that could not be done if the filter was inside the cowling. I think this filter thing will vary from application to application. Personally I installed one just inside next to the fuel shutoff valve and one inline just before the fuel transfer pump. I want to see the junk before it gets to the carb. Also after reading up a bit on gascolators I have decided I might do without one anyway. Sure its a filter and sure its a water trap but all my tanks have low point drains as well as filters. I get the feeling that a gascolator is something carried over from the prehistoric days. Seems to me its just another place to spring a leak or cause vapor lock. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: traby@grenergy.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-103355K@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Fuel Flow From: "Seifert, Richard E" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 08:34:44 -0800 X-Message-Number: 12 KR Neters On the fuel system issue (filter, gascolator, fuel pump, low point drains), each KR is unique. What you place in your fuel system depends on many things. If you use a float bowel carburetor mounted under the engine, and one vented aluminum fuel tank and shut off valve mounted high between the firewall and instrument panel, a gascolator is all you need. In this example adding other components only reduce fuel flow or in the event of their failure reduce safety. In this case the gascolator (with internal filter) provides adequate filtration and the low point drain for both the tank and the fuel line. Many builders do not consider the complexity and unnecessary weight they build into their KR until their engine stops because they forgot to transfer fuel to the header tank or their fuel pump failed. I hear most of them crash in Polish cemeteries. With the Gascolator the only thing that can fail is the filter which should be changed at the first oil change and at every Annual Inspection. Every unnecessary component added to the fuel system adds another failure source and increases your chance of an unwanted landing. Think long and well, then get back to work on that KR. Rich Seifert KR-2, N56SR ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Corvair Engine From: Mike Mims Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 08:18:15 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 13 Don't know of one, 320 weighs about 275 pounds ready to run. Ideal for a KR2 is an engine of 220 pounds or less. But most of all an engine that has a HP to weight ratio of 2 to 1 (or thereabouts). Example, O-200 weighs 210 pounds and hp is 100+, this is good. A 250 pound engine with a reduction unit that makes 70hp (on a good day) this is bad. A 70hp VW that weighs 180 pounds, this is good. --- Lon V Boothby wrote: > Does anyone know of a site on the web that compares > auto engine > weights/horsepower? > And what is ideal for a KR-2. > What does a 0-320 weigh? > Thanks in advance, Lon > Spokane, Wash > ________________________________________________________________ > YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! > Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! > Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE > software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: > mikemims@home.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to > leave-kr-net-163150J@telelists.com > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: SPINS From: UncleLeon@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 12:02:05 EST X-Message-Number: 14 In a message dated 1/27/00 5:48:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, kr-net@telelists.com writes: << when I found out the instructor was afraid to stall the airplane, I terminated my Tomahawk relationship. >> My very first instructor ( a very discouraging a_ _ hole) also threatened that I'd "better not get him in a spin with this thing". (It wasn't a tomahawk) A short while later, (after I "fired" him and got another instructor), I expressed the fear past on to me from the first instructor. The second instructor immediately went into a 3 turn spin and recovered. He then showed me how to do it. At THAT TIME it was the most fun thing I had done in an airplane. But, beware! Many airplanes are unsafe in spins because some surfaces "stall" during the spin and make recovery difficult. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Cracked VW Case From: "Seifert, Richard E" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 09:45:30 -0800 X-Message-Number: 15 KR-Netters Several suppliers sell VW Supercases with a patch welded onto the case between the # 3 cylinder and the rear main bearing. This patch is suposed to prevent case cracks in this area. I'm wondering just how prevalent this cracking condition is in cases used for aircraft conversions. Are their any KR-Netters out there with first hand knowledge. My last flight showed more oil than normal in this area and I'm hopeing it's only the rear seal that needs replacing. Rich Seifert KR-2 N56SR ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Cracked VW Case From: Mike Mims Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 11:19:03 -0800 (PST) X-Message-Number: 16 When you bore the case for larger cylinders its common. --- "Seifert, Richard E" > <<<>>>> __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long From: "Kobus de Wet" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 23:27:22 +0200 X-Message-Number: 17 With two Strombergs the stall is out of the question. Moral of the story German Carbs on German engines. Stop talking, get on with the building. Cheers. Kobus de Wet Cape Town South Africa GMT +2.00 mailto:jfdewet@intekom.co.za Ph +27-21-988-3671 Fax +27-21-987-1850 Cell 082-424-0194 http://home.intekom.com/kobusdw ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Mims To: KR-net users group Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 18:03 Subject: [kr-net] Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long Hey now! The Revflow would have gobbled the junk up and kept running. I think the carb in the story was an Ellison and the guy should have had an inline filter installed! :o) Good story and good info. --- KR2616TJ@aol.com wrote: >>On climbout you get junk in that new Revflow carb. >>>> __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jfdewet@intekom.co.za To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17431O@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: fuel flow From: "Kobus de Wet" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 23:31:18 +0200 X-Message-Number: 18 Inline Auto filters are so cheap that you could replace them, every hour up to 5, then every 5 up to 25, then every 25. That comes to 9 in the first 25 hours. Much cheaper that replacing KR or the hospital bill. Cheers. Kobus de Wet Cape Town South Africa GMT +2.00 mailto:jfdewet@intekom.co.za Ph +27-21-988-3671 Fax +27-21-987-1850 Cell 082-424-0194 http://home.intekom.com/kobusdw ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Raby GRE/ER PwrSysOp To: KR-net users group Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 18:33 Subject: [kr-net] Re: fuel flow I'd be careful about depending on a visual check of a fuel filter. I read somewhere (maybe the Dragonfly newsletters) that the contaminants, especially from a home made fiberlass fuel tank, are next to invisible even up to the point of plugging up a filter. The recommendation was to replace filters VERY often, like every few hours during the initial flight hours and inspect the filters after removal very carefully for conamination. Look how the fiberglass cloth turns invisible when you saturate it with resin. Tom -----Original Message----- From: Mike Mims [mailto:mikemims@home.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 9:07 PM To: KR-net users group Subject: [kr-net] Re: fuel flow KR2616TJ@aol.com wrote: > > Guys, I'm with Jeff on this one about fuel. I'm a strong believer in using a > gasculator have installed mine with a filter between it and my rev. carb. I > also installed a fuel pump..........why, just because. > Jeff, Dana, the guys at my airport with Ellisons found that the filter in the gascolator was not fine enough. Ellisons are extremely picky carburetors, good but picky. Also it was decided that a fram type plastic fuel filter installed inside the cockpit was a better option. This way they could monitor the contamination the first 100 hours just by taking a glance at the filter during preflight. Something that could not be done if the filter was inside the cowling. I think this filter thing will vary from application to application. Personally I installed one just inside next to the fuel shutoff valve and one inline just before the fuel transfer pump. I want to see the junk before it gets to the carb. Also after reading up a bit on gascolators I have decided I might do without one anyway. Sure its a filter and sure its a water trap but all my tanks have low point drains as well as filters. I get the feeling that a gascolator is something carried over from the prehistoric days. Seems to me its just another place to spring a leak or cause vapor lock. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: traby@grenergy.com To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-103355K@telelists.com --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: jfdewet@intekom.co.za To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-17431O@telelists.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Quick Disconnects From: Ross Youngblood Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 14:39:11 -0700 X-Message-Number: 19 I found a catalog that has similar connectors to the quick disconnect type available from Aircraft Spruce. I haven't looked too closely but suspect that you can get the same quick disconnects from Omega. (I don't know if they are cheaper). Check out http://www.omega.com, and look for New Horizons in fluid handling, you can get a free catalog. Also, Omega sells thermocouples to measure temperature. -- Ross -- Ross Youngblood Pager: (888)611-5837 Staff Technical Specialist voicemail: (800)538-6838 x 1632 Schlumberger SABER Bus Line: (480)345-3625 Tempe, Arizona mailto:rossy@saber.slb.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: engine block heater From: "Eddie Hibbard" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 13:54:12 PST X-Message-Number: 20 This may be a dumb question, but what is the magnet going to attach too? A VW block is magniziam (sp?) and I don't think a magnet will attract to it. Just a thought, and my physics is rather old. Happy building/flying Eddie Hibbard N2026P, Baker Oregon (plane is in Portland still, hope to move it when the weather changes) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Cracked VW Case From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 17:28:07 EST X-Message-Number: 21 In a message dated 1/27/00 2:14:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, Richard.Seifert@West.Boeing.com writes: << Several suppliers sell VW Supercases with a patch welded onto the case between the # 3 cylinder and the rear main bearing. This patch is suposed to prevent case cracks in this area. I'm wondering just how prevalent this cracking condition is in cases used for aircraft conversions. >> I believe some recommend that this plate be placed on the case if you machine the case out to accept 2180 components. I talked with a VW Dune Buggy shop here in town, his recommendation was that the weld itself weakened the case more that the thin material. Just food for thought. Mines not welded. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Fuel Flow From: Mike Mims Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 17:09:46 -0800 X-Message-Number: 22 "Seifert, Richard E" wrote: > Many builders do not consider the complexity and unnecessary weight they build into their KR>>>> Trust me this is exactly why I decided to leave the gascolator off. In my case it would have been just one more thing to fail and extra weight. Also the additional plumbing required to keep it cool will not be necessary. There is some good info on the Ellison web page about fuel systems. I tend to agree with a lot of it. Check it out. My system has, tank with low point drain, vent, fuel valve, filter, line to carb. Thats pretty darn simple. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Micheal Mims Sanding and Filling AGAIN! :o( http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/anchor/270/ mirror @ http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/4136/ http://members.home.com/mikemims/ Aliso Viejo CA ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: engine block heater From: "Mark Langford" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 19:39:08 -0600 X-Message-Number: 23 > This may be a dumb question, but what is the magnet going to attach too? A > VW block is magniziam (sp?) and I don't think a magnet will attract to it. > Just a thought, and my physics is rather old. But the oil sump cover plate is steel, with a nice drain plug hole to mount a heater in. Personally, I kinda like the dipstick heater, but then I'm not an expert on heating engines. I really hope we can let this thread die now... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Cracked VW Case From: Krwr1@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 21:05:01 EST X-Message-Number: 24 I always found where there was oil where it's not supposed to be, I had a crack in the case. I had about five cracked cases in 1500 hrs. wildbill(not so wild anymore.) Youngstown Ohio USA ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: engine block heater From: Willard561@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 21:00:26 EST X-Message-Number: 25 In a message dated 1/27/00 6:34:07 PM Mountain Standard Time, edhibb@hotmail.com writes: << This may be a dumb question, but what is the magnet going to attach too? A VW block is magnesium (SP?) and I don't think a magnet will attract to it. Just a thought, and my physics is rather old. Happy building/flying Eddie Hibbard N2026P, Baker Oregon (plane is in Portland still, hope to move it when the weather changes) >> A Friend of mine used a Clam Shell magnet from a Magnetron (the other half broke so the remaining half was junk as the 2 halves had to be a matched pair), as a magnetic particle trap for his VW, the magnet attached itself nicely to the steel oil drain plate. So I would imagine you could attache the heater to the same plate. Bill Higdon Willard561@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: KR-2 0-200 prop From: "Ben Flanery" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 07:50:30 -0800 X-Message-Number: 26 Hi Guys I'm new to the KRNET and this is my first post. I'm excited about being around so many great ideas and solutions to problems. I am a builder and also an owner of a KR that I bought (stretch fusledge) so I could enjoy flying during the construction phase. I figured this would be a good plan to have stick time in the type of plane I was building. My plane has a Contential 0-200 engine and due to a slight mishap by a friend of mine it now needs a new prop. The prop that was installed when I bought it was a 62 X 72 and I'm not sure that is the right combination. Haris, (hasharafaol.com), was nice enough to give me the name of Marty Roberts that flies an 0-200 on his KR. Does anyone know how to put me in touch with him, or anyone that has a similar combination, or anyone that is knowledgeable in that field? As expensive as they are I hate to have to buy two or three to experiment for the right one. I would like to have some thoughts also on wood versus composite. Also would the expense of a ground adjustable be justified for getting the right pitch. I am not knowledgeable at all about props and would appreciate any help I could get. I want to thank everyone out there for your unselfish attitude of giving of your knowledge and time to help others. Ben Flanery bflanery@neto.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Corvair Location From: "J. Miller" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 14:55:02 -0800 X-Message-Number: 27 Hello KR-netters, I'm currently designing my engine mount for my Corvair 110 and I'm trying to determine the right spot for it in the KR2S. In Williams Wynns photos it's easy to see the way it's mounted to his test stand. But I'm looking to find some reference on the KR2S CL. Also, I know that each CG is different in each plane, but is there a general distance between the engine back (original front) and the firewall. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks much, Jon ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Sending sensors From: RFG842@aol.com Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 22:14:58 EST X-Message-Number: 28 Am useing automotive engine instruments and just found that the engine has one hole, 10MM for oil pressure or tempature and one 10MM hole for cyl head temp. Want to install oil temp, oil pressure, and Hobbs meter switch probably useing one netters suggestion of a Chev Vega idiot switch. How do I get all in one hole and the sensors are 1/8" pipe. One thought is a alum block drilled and tapped for both sizes but a speed shop said I would not get accruate readings. Also the more fittings, the greater chance of leaks. Engine is built so no hope of drilling and taping the block. Any Suggestions??? Tnks, Bob ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: SPINS From: "Richard McCall" Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 23:42:06 -0600 X-Message-Number: 29 I had a mortal fear of spins (seen too many dog fights on TV) when I was taking my private pilot training at Langley AFB. Although spins were no longer required, my instructor would not sign off for my final check ride until I had done spins. We did about three weeks of stalls this way and that until I finally screwed up the nerve to do a spin. I promptly announced one day while we doing stalls that it was now or never for the spin. He demonstrated the spin with me on the controls and once I got into it, I LOVED IT!!! He spent the rest of the afternoon trying to get me out of them and keep me from bending the wings. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: KR-net users group Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 11:02 AM Subject: [kr-net] Re: SPINS > In a message dated 1/27/00 5:48:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, > kr-net@telelists.com writes: > > << when I found out the instructor was > afraid to stall the airplane, I terminated my Tomahawk relationship. >> > > My very first instructor ( a very discouraging a_ _ hole) also threatened > that I'd "better not get him in a spin with this thing". (It wasn't a > tomahawk) A short while later, (after I "fired" him and got another > instructor), I expressed the fear past on to me from the first instructor. > The second instructor immediately went into a 3 turn spin and recovered. He > then showed me how to do it. At THAT TIME it was the most fun thing I had > done in an airplane. But, beware! Many airplanes are unsafe in spins > because some surfaces "stall" during the spin and make recovery difficult. > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: planecraft@earthlink.net > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-105534I@telelists.com > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Re: Tomahawk Spins and KRs and filters-long From: Michael Taglieri Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 23:16:12 -0500 X-Message-Number: 30 >You will find as a general statement that the more high performance you go >the more dramatic the stall. >The instructor on the Tomahawk was out of line. All GA aircraft >must demonstrate there ability to recover from a stall using coordinate >control movements that allow the aircraft to remain within the envelope of >non structural damage and pitch and roll parameters. It's that simple. No offense, but I think you're missing the point. It's true all GA aircraft must demonstrate stall recovery on the sample that the FAA tests. But if something happens so later planes in the production run are not the same as the one tested, that demonstration is no longer reliable. In this case, according to the article in Aviation Safety, some Tomahawks apparently have an elevator defect that can cause the elevator to LOCK in the FULL-UP position during a stall and YOU CAN'T GET IT TO COME DOWN AGAIN. Therefore, the recent fatal crash was NOT pilot error. I suggest that people read the article before commenting further; it may be available on their web site. Mike Taglieri ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: RE: Corvair Location From: "Livingstone, Danny (DJ)" Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 11:53:02 +0200 X-Message-Number: 31 One must take into cosideration the mass of the engine with all its goodies and the aircrafts CG with these two vairables you can virtually get your CG in exactly the right place. What I suggest you do is make up a telescopic temporary mount out of commercial square tubing and adjust the engine forward or backward as is required, keeping in mind hight of your engine on the firewall and the aircrafts centre lines. Danny Livingstone Principal Inspector Natref Inspection Department Tel: +27-16-9402663 Fax: +27-16-9402706 E-Mail: livd0124@natref.com > -----Original Message----- > From: J. Miller [SMTP:KRoozin2XS@juno.com] > Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 12:55 AM > To: KR-net users group > Subject: [kr-net] Corvair Location > > Hello KR-netters, > I'm currently designing my engine mount for my Corvair 110 and I'm trying > to determine the right spot for it in the KR2S. In Williams Wynns photos > it's easy to see the way it's mounted to his test stand. But I'm looking > to > find some reference on the KR2S CL. Also, I know that each CG is different > > in each plane, but is there a general distance between the engine back > (original front) and the firewall. Any help would be much appreciated. > Thanks much, Jon > > --- > You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: livd0124@natref.com > To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-163488J@telelists.com --- END OF DIGEST --- You are currently subscribed to kr-net as: johnbou@ipinc.net To unsubscribe send a blank email to leave-kr-net-110995W@telelists.com