From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 3 Sep 2000 21:48:08 -0000 Issue 84 Date: Sunday, September 03, 2000 1:48 PM krnet Digest 3 Sep 2000 21:48:08 -0000 Issue 84 Topics (messages 1882 through 1897): Re: For sale Friday 1882 by: Lon V Boothby Smooth Prime shelf life? 1883 by: Mark Langford 1884 by: WA7YXF.aol.com 1885 by: KR2616TJ.aol.com Re: Smooth Prime, etc 1886 by: Mark Langford 1889 by: Mike Mims RAF 48 gap seals 1887 by: Mark Langford started construction 1888 by: Timothy Brown newbie questions 1890 by: Dr. No 1891 by: Mark Jones 1892 by: Mark Langford larger stableizers 1893 by: MMARTINMtt.aol.com 1897 by: Mark Langford 'one cure' method 1894 by: Oscar Zuniga Re: larger stabilizers 1895 by: Greg S Martin Need HAPI solid state Regulator 1896 by: Seifert, Richard E Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2000 20:31:51 -0700 To: ron@jrl-engineering.com From: Lon V Boothby Cc: rlspjs@dashlink.com, newtech@newtech.com, kr2sflyer@yahoo.com, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> For sale Friday Message-ID: <20000901.203151.-4145893.0.LBoothby@juno.com> I have a KR-2 for sale that has most of the wood work done, sits on retractable gear, (that has a positive lock system) comes with an 0-170 continental engine, already mounted, and has premolded front and rear deck, canopy, and wing tips. Also included is the builders manual and many newsletters. All work is meticulously done. I would like to get $2500, but will consider reasonable offers or trades. Thanks, Lon Email me at LBoothby@juno.com for more photos. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 17:12:46 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Smooth Prime shelf life? Message-ID: <000901c0152a$ed88a920$a5f780ce@300emachine> KRNetHeads, I've just about got my KR smooth enough for prime time, at least on the top side. My plan was to do a little wet sanding this morning and then Smooth Prime it this afternoon or tomorrow, but I noticed that my Smooth Prime was made in May of 98! Man, I have been dawdling big time! The stuff is still quite liquid, and has never been opened, and I was curious if anybody knows what the shelf life of this stuff is. I've emailed the company but they won't be back until Tuesday, and their website gives no clue. Anybody ever used any really old Smooth Prime? I wouldn't mind just buying more but it will be next weekend before I can get it. In fact, their web page says it takes 3 cans for the average homebuilt, so I'll order at least two more on Tuesday anyway. After sanding I took a quick picture, and posted it at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/90218_n56ml.jpg. This thing is gonna look really nice all one color. Wings are "in work" in the basement. One is almost ready for Smooth Prime, and the other will be by next weekend. Still haven't done the wingtips though. Smooth Prime shelf life? Thanks, Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 19:53:27 EDT To: langford@hiwaay.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: WA7YXF@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Smooth Prime shelf life? Message-ID: <9.a27b924.26e2ecf7@aol.com> Mark-----------I think your smooth prime is fine, if it hasn't been opened.. Be sure and put it in a paint shaker though, don't try to just stir it. I been shaking mine a good long 10 min. It will stay suspended for 4-5 days. I'm ready to put on my last coat and I want to spray it on. So far I can't find a paint filter it will go through. I hate to water it down too much. I sanded the rolled on primer with 120 grit its hard stuff, then went over it with 320 grit. I think that's good enough for my KR. Lynn Hyder WA7YXF N37LH Redmond, Oregon ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 07:15:26 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: KR2616TJ@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Smooth Prime shelf life? Message-ID: <27.a7d3deb.26e38cce@aol.com> In a message dated 9/2/00 7:54:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, WA7YXF@aol.com writes: << 'm ready to put on my last coat and I want to spray it on. So far I can't find a paint filter it will go through. I hate to water it down too much. I sanded the rolled on primer with 120 grit its hard stuff, then went over it with 320 grit. >> Mark, your Smooth Prime should be fine. The only measurable shelf life is on the material you have added your bonding agent to. Guys, in all of the forums I have put on about Smooth Prime everyone just "want" to spray the stuff on. I'm sure the reason behind this sprayed on paint looks better than rolled on paint. It isn't the case with Smooth Prime. Don't water Smooth Prime down. You are going to have to sand the final coat anyway. If you just feel you must spray the final coat on, go ahead , but you are not accomplishing what you think you will. I've tried so many different applications with this stuff and believe me, roll the stuff on and sand the surface smooth. You will be impressed. Dana Overall 2000 KR Gathering host Richmond, KY mailto:kr2616tj@aol.com http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/hangar/7085/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 07:44:10 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Smooth Prime, etc Message-ID: <003501c015a4$a84c81e0$a5f780ce@300emachine> Well I've gotten several different answers, but my favorite was from Polyfiber, saying they'd have a new gallon in the mail to me next week, at NO CHARGE! I think I just decided whose top coat system to use! My old gallon didn't have UV protection in it anyway, so maybe this is a good thing. On another note, I've been using the "water pipe" vacuum cleaner method that Doug pointed out, and it works great! I took the Craftsman shop vac back and they didn't seem surprised when I told them the "fine filter" clogged up in under two minutes, and cheerfully handed me a full refund. I hated doing that, but my only other choice was stuff it in the dumpster. It's too big to have laying around and not be useful. I added a 2" PVC elbow and about 6" of downpipe to within and inch of the bottom of my old Genie, and added 3" of water. I removed the foam filter and fabric sock, and this thing traps it all! No dust floating around in the air any more. If I leave it running for more than a few minutes a few drops of water come out the exhaust, but it's a wet/dry vac, and I suppose is designed to be able to stand it, since it has a float designed to shut it off when it fills up completely with water. If not, no big loss. I'll throw a picture of this setup on my web site next time I update it, but it's a 5 minute upgrade... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 11:16:37 -0700 (PDT) To: Mark Langford , krnet@mailinglists.org From: Mike Mims Subject: Re: KR> Smooth Prime, etc Message-ID: <20000903181637.18615.qmail@web1401.mail.yahoo.com> --- Mark Langford wrote: > Well I've gotten several different answers, but my > favorite was from Polyfiber, saying they'd have a new gallon in the mail to me next week, at NO CHARGE!>>>> Poly Fiber has treated me in a similar way. I ran short on one of the parts of SuperFil and they sent me more FREE! On another note, be REAL careful about wetsanding. Actually I would say dont do it but if you must make sure you DO NOT get any water on unprimed (raw) micro. I have several friends that seem to think that wet sanding their plane (un-primed) has been the reason that the paint on their beautiful planes is lifting. They feel the moisture trapped in the micro is finally lifting its head and really doing a number on the paint. ===== ........| .......-^- ....-/_____\- ...(O\__o__/O) ...[#]oxxxo[#] -----Y2K Bug--- Yes I drive one! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 07:45:07 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: RAF 48 gap seals Message-ID: <003901c015a4$ca5baf40$a5f780ce@300emachine> WingNuts, Jeff Scott tried aileron gap seals on his RAF48 winged KR, and reports that they made them feel MUCH heavier (rather than lighter as on Troy's AS5046 wing) and he gained nothing in the climb rate department. He'll file a comprehensive report later, but suffice it to say that gap seals are apparently only beneficial for the AS5046. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 09:15:13 -0700 (PDT) To: Group KR NET From: Timothy Brown Subject: started construction Message-ID: <20000903161513.17247.qmail@web9503.mail.yahoo.com> I have now started construction of my KR2S. A question has arose that I would like comments on. The RR spruce list indicates 14' longeron pieces but as I began laying out the locations for the verticals I discovered that I only needed a little over 12' (145.5"). Am I doing something wrong. I'm a true believer in measure twice/ask the net/cut once. Also, any suggestions for getting the length and angles right for the verticals? Quick responses would be appreciated because I plan to devote today and tomorrow to construction. Thanks much. Tim __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 13:37:59 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Dr. No" Subject: newbie questions Message-ID: <39B29A7A.40685C37@pol.net> I'm about to start in on completing a 49% project (new to me), and have some questions for the kind, considerate members of this group. I'm sure these have been answered on a weekly basis in the past, but the archives are down, so excuse my redundancy. 1. What is the experience with fitting the new airfoil on already-built spars? 2. Ditto for horizontal stabilizer? 3. Retractable v. fixed conventional gear? 4. Lengthened engine mount to move the CG foreward? 5. Would anyone who is contemplating blowing a Lexan canopy like to share cost/work? I'm in Fort Worth. I'm sure I'll think of others, maybe the archives will be up first. Thanks, Scott ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 14:06:13 -0500 To: "Dr. No" , krnet@mailinglists.org From: Mark Jones Subject: Re: KR> newbie questions Message-ID: <39B2A125.99C237FB@execpc.com> "Dr. No" wrote: > I'm about to start in on completing a 49% project (new to me), and have > some questions for the kind, considerate members of this group. I'm sure > these have been answered on a weekly basis in the past, but the archives > are down, so excuse my redundancy. > 1. What is the experience with fitting the new airfoil on already-built > spars? I did it with little to no problems. You must use the AS5046 which is designed for existing spars. You must loosen the aft spar and raise it approx 3/4" to get a one degree incidence. Takes a little time but it sure is worth it. I show the steps on my web site listed below. > 2. Ditto for horizontal stabilizer? You must build up the spars by adding cap strips to the top and bottom. A minus .7 degree incidence is preferred. Mine worked out perfectly on the incidence as I did not have to correct anything from the original construction (I was lucky). > > 3. Retractable v. fixed conventional gear? Fixed is the way to go!!! Why have the additional worries of the retract system? > > 4. Lengthened engine mount to move the CG foreward? If you must, do it. But be very sure first. > > 5. Would anyone who is contemplating blowing a Lexan canopy like to > share cost/work? I'm in Fort Worth. Don't know of anyone individually who has had luck with this. A Dragonfly canopy or a wrapped canopy would be your best bet. -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/flykr2s/homepage ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 13:58:38 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> newbie questions Message-ID: <009501c015d8$f8bbf280$a5f780ce@300emachine> Scott wrote: > 1. What is the experience with fitting the new airfoil on already-built > spars? > 2. Ditto for horizontal stabilizer? The AS5046 is a perfect fit for stock spars, but the aft spar needs to be raised. It was designed specifically for that purpose. The horizontal stabilizer airfoil drawings that TET throws in with the airfoil templates are simply those that I used on my plane, and require a taller spar. This is easily accomplished by laminating an additional strip of spruce to the top of your existing spars. Adding the "real" airfoil to the horizontal spar isn't mandatory with the new airfoil by any means. In fact, changing the incidence of the horizontal stab isn't either, as there are now two versions of the AS5046 airfoil templates, one of which compensates for the stock 0 degree h/s angle. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 15:04:58 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: MMARTINMtt@aol.com Subject: larger stableizers Message-ID: <75.92cd5ad.26e3fada@aol.com> could anyone explain the advantagesof lager stableizers , vertical and horizontal. im to that point that i must make my decission. thanks, ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 16:41:42 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> larger stableizers Message-ID: <00cc01c015ef$c03b1b40$a5f780ce@300emachine> > could anyone explain the advantagesof lager stableizers , vertical and > horizontal. A larger horizontal stabilizer increases the pitch stability of the airplane, by moving the center of pressure further aft of the center of gravity. If you've ever shot an arrow with no feathers on the tail of it, you can see why that would help. A plane that is not very stable is a real pain to fly, as the pilot must correct continuously for small perturbances. The larger h/s costs you a little in drag though. A smarter solution is to add length to the fuselage (about one more bay), which gives the smaller h/s a longer acting moment, and not much more drag. A larger rudder is often necessary to maintain the centerline of the runway on takeoff when the plane has a large engine with lots of torque. Troy has warned me not to just firewall that big Corvair on the first takeoff, or I might end up in the weeds... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 19:32:02 GMT To: krnet@mailinglists.org, a51@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: 'one cure' method Message-ID: Anybody know what the so-called 'one cure' or 'single cure' composite method is all about (developed by Scaled Composites)? I saw something about it in AOPA Pilot story on modern construction methods, but no details were given. Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 12:35:08 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Greg S Martin Subject: Re: KR> larger stabilizers Message-ID: <20000903.123509.-432817.0.idrawtobuild@juno.com> M Martin On the horiz stab. it should help in the proposing effect during landing even if your building a 2s. But on the vert. stab. I'm not sure that there's anything to gain. I'm sure someone else will have something to say also. But on my 2s I did make the horiz stab larger. I just wish I had done the same on the KR-1. Happy building and/or flying. Greg Martin, idrawtobuild@juno.com 1783 Glenwood Court Bakersfield, California 93306 work 661-861-0570, fax 861-0517 home 661-872-8781, fax 871-1822 On Sun, 3 Sep 2000 15:04:58 EDT MMARTINMtt@aol.com writes: > could anyone explain the advantagesof lager stableizers , vertical > and > horizontal. > im to that point that i must make my decission. > thanks, > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > G ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 13:35:34 -0700 To: "'krnet@mailinglists.org'" From: "Seifert, Richard E" Subject: Need HAPI solid state Regulator Message-Id: A good friend (KR-1 Pilot) needs a HAPI solid state regulator as his just quit. Does anyone on the list know where we can get one? It is different from the Diel and Great Plains regulator and of course HAPI is no longer in business. I understand its an industrial unit but don't have a part number or manufacturer. ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************