From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 16 Dec 2000 03:52:22 -0000 Issue 139 Date: Friday, December 15, 2000 7:52 PM krnet Digest 16 Dec 2000 03:52:22 -0000 Issue 139 Topics (messages 3323 through 3338): Crankshaft 3323 by: Al Friesen Re: Ailerons 3324 by: Phil Visconti 3325 by: EagleGator.aol.com maximum weight + VW type 4 3326 by: Nadine Brauns 3327 by: David R. Christensen 3334 by: larry flesner flight instruments 3328 by: Oscar Zuniga 3329 by: Mark Langford 3335 by: Albert Pecoraro TYPE 4 3330 by: Schmidt, Curtis Cabin heat 3331 by: Al Friesen 3332 by: David R. Christensen 3333 by: Brian. P Vasseur 3337 by: David R. Christensen Cabinet hinge 3336 by: Aripo this is just a test.no need to read 3338 by: KR2mailing.cs.com Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 14:12:56 -0800 To: From: "Al Friesen" Subject: Crankshaft Message-ID: <006401c06551$dd941640$9fcb6cce@s8z8i0> ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0650E.CAEC3880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Netters, Any of you who have Revmaster engines or for that matter any other non = original crankshaft in your VW engine. If and when you have it apart = check the rod journal oil holes for bearing material stuck in the hole = of the crank, I had some in mine, in the flywheel end rod journal. I = think when they camfered the oil hole in the crank it left a burr that = scrapped some of the bearing material and left it in the hole nearly = blocking off the oil flow. This engine only had some factory running and = I suppose a bit of ground run. Run a strip of kitchen alum foil over the = hole to see if it catches on the oil hole camfer. Al To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >> To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C0650E.CAEC3880-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 16:20:55 -0500 To: Al Friesen From: Phil Visconti CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Ailerons Message-ID: <3A37E837.39C2EF3@gis.net> Al, Be very careful if this is a Diehl wing skin.Your discovery sounds familar. I found out about the problem when I tried to cut out the ailerons. I noticed a slight separation of the skin. I put my thumb nail in the separation and the skin started to separate. I talked to Dan Diehl and he told me the person that made the wing probably used epoxy instead of vinylester to bond skins to spars and ribs. I then put a screwdriver at begining of joint where skin was bonded to one of the ribs. (Trailing edge of skin.) The skin peeled off just like an orange peel. The problem was not the wing skin but the previous builder's use of wrong bonding material. This happened approximately 7 years after the wing was built. I was lucky this happened on the bench and not in the air. Phil Visconti Al Friesen wrote: > Netters, > Before you install the aileron hinges make sure you have glassed the 1/4" aileron & wing hinge mount spars. The guy that started my 2S didn't put it in & I didn't catch it, now I have to remove the hinges (some of the nuts turn behind the 1/4" spars) remove the 1/4"spars, glass the wing & aileron spars, reassemble, fill & paint. All this to stay alive. I noticed this problem when I installed the push rods to the aileron horns, the skin over the horn area was separating from the aileron spar for about 6". Before I started filling the a/c I was suspicious of the horn mount, even read the construction manual but didn't pick up on the problem. Even the precover inspector didn't notice it. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 16:53:48 EST To: vicsani@gis.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: EagleGator@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Ailerons Message-ID: <36.f360a63.276949ec@aol.com> --part1_36.f360a63.276949ec_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 12/13/00 3:20:41 PM Central Standard Time, vicsani@gis.net writes: > . I talked to Dan Diehl and he told me the person that made the wing > I made a post about how to bond vinylester with epoxy and vice versa a while ago, based on a long conversation with Dan. I sent a copy of it to Monty for the next issue of the newsletter, so those of you with subscriptions should see it in a month or so. The basic jist of the whole thing is that if you are going to bond parts made using vinylester, either use vinylester to bond them or you'll have to sand all the way down to expose the glass fiber to make it work with epoxy. The same is pretty much true for the opposite case. I'll be using vinylester to bond my wing skins per Dan's recommendations. The best general rule is to use the same products consistently throughout your project. There have been problems even using different types of epoxy over the course of a project. If you have to change products in the middle of your project, be sure to do the research with the manufacturers to make sure everything is compatible, or what procedures you need to accomplish to use them together. Cheers, Rick Junkin, St. Charles MO EagleGator@aol.com --part1_36.f360a63.276949ec_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 00:43:44 +0100 To: From: "Nadine Brauns" Subject: maximum weight + VW type 4 Message-ID: <003e01c0655e$94813200$73ab08d4@oemcomputer> ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C06566.EAFA0FA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, We've just installed a Type 4 on our KR2, but our governing body (PFA - = Popular Flying Association) won't let us test the aircraft if we don't = supply quality drawings and dimensions of the engine conversion + = references and other info. Can anybody help? Also, with that new engine, the weight of our KR2 has increased from lbs = 538 to 566. Too much, according to the PFA which will only clear it for = single seat use! Which is a shame, as we swapped our type 3 for a type 4 = to get extra power and extra weight at the front (helped the C of G). = Therefore, we'd like to gather a maximum of information and figures = about existing KR2's weights. Out of curiosity and speaking = unofficially, how heavy do you fly your KR2 in the States or elsewhere? = I am talking about the KR2 and not the KR2S... Thanks for your advice, Nadine & Colin=20 ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C06566.EAFA0FA0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2000 17:52:33 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> maximum weight + VW type 4 Message-ID: <001101c06570$871ad8c0$47785ad1@davec> Nadine, My KR-2 is tested and certified for 1000 lb gross and performs very well at that loading. When I fly to Oshkosh I takeoff with me at 220 lb, 28 gallons of fuel and all of my camping gear behind the seat which about loads it up to gross. Landing with six or seven gallons in the nose tank and the camping gear behind the seat with the CG aft can be a little tricky keeping it straight after touch down. Pitch control is also more sensitive with more aft CG but the aircraft is always stable. Empty weight is about 550 lbs with a 75 hp Revmaster engine. I added a few features that made it heavier than it could have been. Good luck with the PFA. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Nadine Brauns To: krnet@mailinglists.org Date: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 5:09 PM Subject: KR> maximum weight + VW type 4 Hi, We've just installed a Type 4 on our KR2, but our governing body (PFA - Popular Flying Association) won't let us test the aircraft if we don't supply quality drawings and dimensions of the engine conversion + references and other info. Can anybody help? Also, with that new engine, the weight of our KR2 has increased from lbs 538 to 566. Too much, according to the PFA which will only clear it for single seat use! Which is a shame, as we swapped our type 3 for a type 4 to get extra power and extra weight at the front (helped the C of G). Therefore, we'd like to gather a maximum of information and figures about existing KR2's weights. Out of curiosity and speaking unofficially, how heavy do you fly your KR2 in the States or elsewhere? I am talking about the KR2 and not the KR2S... Thanks for your advice, Nadine & Colin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 19:02:57 -0600 To: "Nadine Brauns" , From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> maximum weight + VW type 4 Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20001214190257.0084f610@mail.midwest.net> Your KR sounds like a "light weight" when compared to some of the KR's flying in the US !! Marty Roberts of Tulsa, flies a KR that currently weights in at about 750 pounds. It is basiclly a stock KR2 with an 0-200 Continental and Diehl gear. I know it has flown with two 200 pounders on board as I once got a ride with Marty. (I think his empty weight at the time was 735 lb.) Maybe a video of the KR "Gathering" showing these heavy KR's flying along with some weight and balance figures would satisfy the PFA ??? Good Luck. Larry Flesner ============================================================================ At 12:43 AM 12/14/00 +0100, Nadine Brauns wrote: >Hi, >We've just installed a Type 4 on our KR2, but our governing body (PFA - Popular Flying Association) won't let us test the aircraft if we don't supply quality drawings and dimensions of the engine conversion + references and other info. Can anybody help? > >Also, with that new engine, the weight of our KR2 has increased from lbs 538 to 566. Too much, according to the PFA which will only clear it for single seat use! Which is a shame, as we swapped our type 3 for a type 4 to get extra power and extra weight at the front (helped the C of G). Therefore, we'd like to gather a maximum of information and figures about existing KR2's weights. Out of curiosity and speaking unofficially, how heavy do you fly your KR2 in the States or elsewhere? I am talking about the KR2 and not the KR2S... >Thanks for your advice, >Nadine & Colin > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 06:09:01 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: flight instruments Message-ID: Ralph asked- >Does anyone know a good source for rebuilt or new flight instruments? Try Chief Aircraft for new, affordable stuff. They are at http://www.chiefaircraft.com Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ _____________________________________________________________________________________ Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 06:50:53 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> flight instruments Message-ID: <001401c065cc$7f25eea0$9e0fa58c@tbe.com> > Ralph asked- > >Does anyone know a good source for rebuilt or new flight instruments? Just don't buy anything from "Falcon Gauge", usually a hundred or two less than the real thing, and listed as "import" in the catalogs. I don't know about the rest of their stuff, but their turn coordinators are unbelievably noisy, both mechanically and electrically. Without a capacitor on the power leads, you'd just as well toss your radio out the window, because you will certainly not hear anything but noise coming out of it. And they admitted that they had serious problems with many of the units coming out of the factory in China, and there just wasn't anything they could do about it... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 22:49:44 -0500 To: From: "Albert Pecoraro" Subject: Re: KR> flight instruments Message-ID: <000801c0664a$10e303a0$abd1b23f@steelcase.com> Ralph, Great Plains also lists some in their catalog. Start at this page: http://www.greatplainsas.com/pgenginst.html Make sure you read the bottom ... about how to receive the 15% discount! Then try these pages in sequence: http://www.greatplainsas.com/pg29.html http://www.greatplainsas.com/pg30.html http://www.greatplainsas.com/pg31.html In my opinion, I think the prices are quite fair and competitive. Albert > Ralph asked- > >Does anyone know a good source for rebuilt or new flight instruments? > > Try Chief Aircraft for new, affordable stuff. They are at > http://www.chiefaircraft.com > > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, Oregon > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ > ------------------------------ Date: 14 Dec 2000 10:28:00 -0700 To: "krnet@mailinglists.org" From: "Schmidt, Curtis" Subject: TYPE 4 Message-ID: <000369C0@kaydon.com> HEY GUYS: Sorry for the post to everyone, but this one goes out to Steve at G.P.! Do = you sale the type 4 103mm piston/jug sets separate from the total type 4 co= nversion kit? If so, how much? Also, my case has already been bored out for bigger jugs. It's a new case I= got from a guy who wanted to build a huge engine but ran out of money. My = question is, what's the case bore dia. For the 103 jug? I'd hate to buy a s= et then find out my case is bored for 105's! Any help is greatly appreciated! CURTIS R SCHMIDT CNC TOOLING & PROGRAMMING LARNED KANSAS USA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 15:46:03 -0800 To: From: "Al Friesen" Subject: Cabin heat Message-ID: <001f01c06628$06a55f40$98cb6cce@s8z8i0> ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C065E4.F6DE8160 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Guys, I would appreciate any ideas on your cabin heat setup for a Revmaster = 2100D engine. I have all four exhaust pipes into one on the left side. I = am thim=3Dnhing that in the future I will have a 2 & 2 pipes setup. The = right side looks good for a muff around the right rear pipe but there is = a joint in the middle with a gasket which could present a CO2 problem if = the gasket leaked, I don't like CO2 as I had a 40 Buick I was tuning in = my garage with the 16' door cracked and even then I dame near bit the = dust as you would say. Any thoughts will be appreciated. Al To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01C065E4.F6DE8160-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 17:05:14 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> Cabin heat Message-ID: <000601c06633$1583d360$87785ad1@davec> Al, I have a four-into-one system of Revmaster manufacture. I welded a heat muff to the exhaust system on the left side. It is in an "L" shape and follows the bend of the exhaust pipe. I left the top of the "L" open and made an aluminum cover plate that attaches with sheet metal screws. I welded a couple of baffles inside and filled it with brass scouring padsl. This works very well. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Al Friesen To: krnet@mailinglists.org Date: Thursday, December 14, 2000 3:54 PM Subject: KR> Cabin heat Guys, I would appreciate any ideas on your cabin heat setup for a Revmaster 2100D engine. I have all four exhaust pipes into one on the left side. I am thim=nhing that in the future I will have a 2 & 2 pipes setup. The right side looks good for a muff around the right rear pipe but there is a joint in the middle with a gasket which could present a CO2 problem if the gasket leaked, I don't like CO2 as I had a 40 Buick I was tuning in my garage with the 16' door cracked and even then I dame near bit the dust as you would say. Any thoughts will be appreciated. Al To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 17:07:27 -0700 To: "Al Friesen" , krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Brian. P Vasseur" Subject: Re: KR> Cabin heat Message-Id: <200012150007.RAA05437@spool1.cadvision.com> It doesn't take much of a muff for cabin heat, even if you can get 6" in length you'll find that would be lots. I also agree with your decision not to go over the joint. Another option (depending on your shrouds) would be to pull cabin heat from underneath the cylinders. Brian Al Friesen wrote: >Guys, >I would appreciate any ideas on your cabin heat setup for a Revmaster >2100D engine. I have all four exhaust pipes into one on the left side. I >am thim=nhing that in the future I will have a 2 & 2 pipes setup. The >right side looks good for a muff around the right rear pipe but there is a >joint in the middle with a gasket which could present a CO2 problem if the >gasket leaked, I don't like CO2 as I had a 40 Buick I was tuning in my >garage with the 16' door cracked and even then I dame near bit the dust as >you would say. Any thoughts will be appreciated. Al > >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org -- Brian. P Vasseur -- vasseurb@cadvision.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 08:24:20 -0800 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Fw: KR> Cabin heat Message-ID: <003501c066b3$8c18f980$7e785ad1@davec> Al, There is a bolt at the corner of the engine that attaches the oil cooler baffling. I used a length of 1/8" aluminum angle at this location, picking up that one bolt for attachment, for a standoff for my throttle cable. One bolt is sufficient as the angle wraps around the corner and is well supported. I installed this bolt using silicone sealant to make sure it wouldn't loosen up and so I wouldn't be tempted to overtorque it and strip the threads in the aluminum block. I guess you could weld up or rivet up a heat muff similar to mine and clamp it to your powder coated pipe. I ran a duct from the forward baffling to the heat muff to supply fresh air and plenty of pressure. I had to restrict the opening at the baffling with a little diffuser to reduce the flow into the muff. Less flow of air through the cowl, less drag on the airframe! Air must flow through the heat muff at all times, even when the cabin heat is off. I ran another duct from the heat muff to a heat box similar to the ones you can buy but made of aluminum and a lot lighter, which I made myself. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Al Friesen To: David R. Christensen Date: Thursday, December 14, 2000 5:38 PM Subject: Re: KR> Cabin heat >Dave, > How did you get enough pressure at the muff to get the volume of air into >the cabin? I have the carb cables clamped to the exh. pipe with standoffs >which interferes with using the left stack for a heat muff. My exh. system >is powder coated. Al >----- Original Message ----- >From: David R. Christensen >To: krnet mailing lists >Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 5:05 PM >Subject: Fw: KR> Cabin heat > > >> Al, >> I have a four-into-one system of Revmaster manufacture. I welded a >heat >> muff to the exhaust system on the left side. It is in an "L" shape and >> follows the bend of the exhaust pipe. I left the top of the "L" open and >> made an aluminum cover plate that attaches with sheet metal screws. I >> welded a couple of baffles inside and filled it with brass scouring padsl. >> This works very well. >> Dave >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Al Friesen >> To: krnet@mailinglists.org >> Date: Thursday, December 14, 2000 3:54 PM >> Subject: KR> Cabin heat >> >> >> Guys, >> I would appreciate any ideas on your cabin heat setup for a Revmaster >2100D >> engine. I have all four exhaust pipes into one on the left side. I am >> thim=nhing that in the future I will have a 2 & 2 pipes setup. The right >> side looks good for a muff around the right rear pipe but there is a joint >> in the middle with a gasket which could present a CO2 problem if the >gasket >> leaked, I don't like CO2 as I had a 40 Buick I was tuning in my garage >with >> the 16' door cracked and even then I dame near bit the dust as you would >> say. Any thoughts will be appreciated. Al >> >> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >> To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> >> >> >> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org >> To unsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 09:53:38 +0100 To: "KRnet" From: "Aripo" Subject: Cabinet hinge Message-ID: <001201c06674$9f0f6680$8b561197@aripo> ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C0667C.E5A75320 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hei hei I have Armani cabinet hinges italian style in my KR Franco Negri I-KRFN Italy ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C0667C.E5A75320-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 22:51:35 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: KR2mailing@cs.com Subject: this is just a test.no need to read Message-ID: KR2mailing@cs.com ( Brandon ) ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************