From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 19 Mar 2001 01:25:32 -0000 Issue 194 Date: Sunday, March 18, 2001 5:25 PM krnet Digest 19 Mar 2001 01:25:32 -0000 Issue 194 Topics (messages 4683 through 4712): Re: Tandem Tail dragger 4683 by: Didactics1.aol.com Re: KR1-Tandem 4684 by: Didactics1.aol.com 4685 by: Didactics1.aol.com 4691 by: indygeorge 4698 by: Mark Langford 4703 by: Didactics1.aol.com Re: Questions 4686 by: WA7YXF.aol.com 4699 by: Ray Brock 4700 by: Frank Ross 4711 by: Robert X. Cringely Transciever 4687 by: Edwin Blocher 4688 by: Edwin Blocher Re: Aeroconversions carb 4689 by: RONALD.FREIBERGER 4701 by: John P Moyle Re: Revmaster engine cowling 4690 by: Tom Crawford Wingtips for new airfoil 4692 by: Dave and Tina Goodman 4696 by: Mark Langford sanding bars 4693 by: John Esch screw-up 4694 by: Timothy Brown 4695 by: Mark Jones 4704 by: Brian Vasseur Heel Brakes 4697 by: Austin Clark SUN-n- FUN 2001, Forums 4702 by: Frank Ross Re: Oil temps 4705 by: Ross R. Youngblood Fuel Leaks 4706 by: Doug Peyton 4707 by: Ross R. Youngblood 4709 by: Tom Crawford 4710 by: Brian Vasseur H.S.Hinges 4708 by: Timothy Brown 4712 by: Mark Jones Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:12:13 EST To: jsellars@auracom.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Didactics1@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Tandem Tail dragger Message-ID: <11.114012cb.27e53b3d@aol.com> Jim, Well I'm no auto mechanic, so I've been thinking of just working with simplist, most tried true powerplant, i.e., VW Type 4. So I guess I'm willing to hear more about why you recommend the Saturn for such a suitable substitute. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:12:19 EST To: miller_william@hotmail.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Didactics1@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Re: KR1-Tandem Message-ID: <98.1202a14d.27e53b43@aol.com> Bill, I am thinking of a tandem layout for two reasons. First, the frontal area of resistance posed by taking a KR-2S and having to widen it to make it truly able to accommodate side-by-side seating, which seems to be almost required. Yet, I like the idea of using a larger layout than the original KR-1, both from a fuselage and wing area point of view. The second is entirely a desire to be able to fly alone most of the time, but still be able to have someone come along without having to trim the wing for off-center/on-center conditions. I also am looking at the comments made about pitch sensitive aspects still resident in the KR-2S. As far as having to redesign the whole ship, I wonder why the widening so prevalent hasn't also required such treatment. I realize the lengthening of the fuselage even further than the -2S deals with moment arms, center of gravity and center of lift. How much redesign was necessary to go from the original KR-2 to the KR-2S? Steve Steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:12:25 EST To: newtech@newtech.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Didactics1@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Re: KR1-Tandem Message-ID: Steve, Well I definitely didn't have in mind doing a complete redesign. And I'm sorry if my questions lead you to believe I am "not ready" to build. I do have some experience in building, particularly small boats, which begins with lofting lines, and ends with trial runs. And as a retired AF type, I've been around the big boys and their performance envelopes for a fair number of years. If stretching the KR-2S fuselage requires the effort you believe, I'm quite willing to leave that to others. My idea is to perhaps go into a similar amount of effort that others have by widening the KR-2 fuselage, and other such modifications. I'll look at the Ronzc data, but, as previously stated, not interested in getting into the design business. More willing to ride others' coattails and thought something like I've suggested had, perhaps, been done by others in the past. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 21:25:29 -0800 To: , , From: "indygeorge" Subject: Re: KR> Re: KR1-Tandem Message-ID: <001c01c0af6b$d930f640$0d30c8cd@f6d3r3> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 2:12 PM Subject: Re: KR> Re: KR1-Tandem > Bill, > > I am thinking of a tandem layout for two reasons. First, the frontal area of > resistance posed by taking a KR-2S and having to widen it to make it truly > able to accommodate side-by-side seating, which seems to be almost required. > Yet, I like the idea of using a larger layout than the original KR-1, both > from a fuselage and wing area point of view. The second is entirely a desire > to be able to fly alone most of the time, but still be able to have someone > come along without having to trim the wing for off-center/on-center > conditions. I also am looking at the comments made about pitch sensitive > aspects still resident in the KR-2S. > > As far as having to redesign the whole ship, I wonder why the widening so > prevalent hasn't also required such treatment. I realize the lengthening of > the fuselage even further than the -2S deals with moment arms, center of > gravity and center of lift. How much redesign was necessary to go from the > original KR-2 to the KR-2S? > > Steve > > Steve > hej Steve lock at the config. of A.J.Smiths racer if jou fit a havier engine on a longer maunt seat jour passenger in the original spot and put your cocpit DIRECTLYbehind et in the streched kr1 fuselage you realy will have a sleak plane!sorry for the bad spelind!and for that guy who blasted me in the past well if you canot forgeve my spelling you can lick my ear! g > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 10:28:19 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Re: KR1-Tandem Message-ID: <004801c0afc8$718d75b0$561cf618@600athlon> Didactics1@aol.com wrote: > If stretching the KR-2S fuselage requires the effort you believe, I'm quite > willing to leave that to others. My idea is to perhaps go into a similar > amount of effort that others have by widening the KR-2 fuselage, and other > such modifications. Widening the KR2 or S fuselage requires about 5 extra minutes of layout time as opposed to following the plans, and that's about the extent of the "redesign" effort required to widen one. If you can add the number 4" or 6" to the two or three dimensions given in the plan (top) view, you've just done the work. Maybe you don't have the plans yet and don't know it, but it's not like every piece of spruce is laid out on a measured drawing. Except for those few layout dimensions in the plan view, it's all "cut to fit". Even the instrument panel is a matter of "gee, what's that supposed to look like?", because you'll get no clue from the plans. The only other real potential construction time penalty is that you can't use RR's premolded top deck and canopy frame, which you obviously aren't going to be able to do with your tandem version either. Weight and balance is almost completely unchanged, since you've added maybe 2 pounds of extra material, right on top of the CG. For the tandem version, besides basic weight and balance and stability issues created from moving the wing and tail around, you'll have the problem of structure for the passenger and pilot. With the stock side-by-side seating, you have a real case of FREE LUNCH. The seating structure is provided with the spars. Just stretch a little canvas, composite, or aluminum between them, and you've got yourself a very light, structurally sound seat-for-two that is going to be there as long as there's enough plane left to fly. In the tandem, everything changes. Now you've got to support both a pilot and passenger. The KR2 structure is simply not up to that. If I let my 42 pound 6-year old daughter climb into my plane, I have to make sure to tell her not to step on the bottom ANYWHERE, or I'll be headed to ER and then fixing the resulting hole in the floor. Supporting a 180 pound passenger (times 4 for 4g flight=720 pounds) anywhere other than between those two spars is going to demand some serious structure somewhere, and some serious weight gain (and weight and balance shift, as well as performance degradation) is going to come along with it. But don't get the impression that I'm trying to talk you out of this. I'd really like to be able to tell you "I told you so" in about 10 years when you're still working on it. I have said that no matter what anybody else wanted to build, I wouldn't pooh-pooh it. I'm just trying to save you some heartache and steer you into what I think is the the easiest solution to your "problem". But if your real goal is to build something truly unique and you don't mind the extra redesign, engineering, and construction time, that's a different story and I wish you all the luck. Periscope down... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 13:46:45 EST To: miller_william@hotmail.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Didactics1@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Re: KR1-Tandem Message-ID: Bill, I have more or less confirmed the area of concern. I agree that frontal area stays the same with a non-widended KR-2S. I guess I'll have to try to look into the differences that were designed into the KR-2S fuselage, versus the KR-2. The fuselage lengths in the literature reads: KR-1 fuselage length = 12' 9" KR-2 " " = 14' 6" KR-2S " " = 16' From what I've read, some folks seem to feel even the KR-2S is a little sensitive to pitch and needs some care in flying. I guess I need to look carefully at the differences in all three to understand the range of CG and center of lift to see what more can be done. I'm almost tempted to try and stay with the KR-1 (lengthened to ??), but use the new AS504X airfoil to accommodate the weight differences of a tandem two place configuration. I'm broadcasting this out on the net, in hopes someone has traveled this road before me. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 18:28:37 EST To: afriesen@kootenay.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: WA7YXF@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Questions Message-ID: In a message dated 3/17/01 11:17:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, afriesen@kootenay.com writes: > I was checking the controls around the stick and noticed that the control rod > ends were not clearanced enough as they would undo the lock nuts. Its always a good idea to use drilled bolts and castle nuts on everything that moves. Lock nuts are OK if the parts are not to move.. Lynn Hyder WA7YXF N37LH Redmond, Oregon ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 10:35:38 -0600 To: "Krnet" From: "Ray Brock" Subject: Questions Message-ID: <000801c0afc9$7717a720$cb34fea9@cx603929-a.omhan1.ne.home.com> Netters (Catching up email, bad computer) : ( I have had the Kr2 plans since "84, I all ways like this little bird and the low cost of building. I would like to start building this summer, I do want to widen the fuselage and lengthen it, even longer than the "S". My concerns are the stability of the aircraft, I do not want a "weight shift" plane my where I have to be aware of my body position to keep it stable or flying it with finger tips. Can this airplane be made to fly stable? Also I would like to use thicker spruce, can anyone see a problem with this? 5/8 wood does not sound thick enough to me. Maybe increasing the thickness to 1 inch? How does turbulence effect this airplane? There are times when we get tossed around pretty good. I am not asking for any reassurance, I am not an engineer. Just wanting to see what other experimenters have done and their thoughts and solutions. Thank You all in advance Keep up the great work Ray Brock Omaha Nebr. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 09:56:37 -0800 (PST) To: Krnet From: Frank Ross Subject: Re: KR> Questions Message-ID: <20010318175637.29363.qmail@web4704.mail.yahoo.com> --- Ray Brock wrote: ...I would like to start building this summer, > I do want to widen the fuselage and lengthen it, > even longer than the "S". > My concerns are the stability of the aircraft, ...? Also I would > like to use thicker spruce, > can anyone see a problem with this? 5/8 wood does > not sound thick enough .... > Maybe increasing the thickness to 1 inch? How does > turbulence effect this > airplane? ...Just wanting ... other experimenters ... > thoughts and solutions. > > Thank You all in advance > Keep up the great work > > Ray Brock > Omaha Nebr. Ray, First, I haven't built or flown a KR yet, so... The KR is plenty strong with 5/8" Spruce. When WAR copied RRs ideas to build their replicas of WWII planes, they went to 3/4" spruce and added a "few" other little touches and ended up with a plane that required a larger, stronger and heavier engine. One thing leads to another. Maybe you should look at American Affordables "Vision" or BX Cherry. Could save you a lot of work and trouble. These are (from what I read) basically very similar to the KR, but a little larger, a little more modern construction techniques and yet very, very close to the KR design. Or, take your chances, build a KR2S stretched a LITTLE more, with a DO (Dana Overall) hs and see how it flies. Before you get any older. From someone who sees the days going by lightening fast now... Not an engineer, either, just my 2cents worth. ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 16:46:49 -0800 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Robert X. Cringely" Subject: Re: KR> Questions Message-Id: While the spruce may not SOUND thick enough to you, it IS thick enough, so don't change it. KR's aren't falling from the skies even though most of them are way heavier than Kenny Rand ever intended. the spruce is fine as it is. Homebuilts that are "improved" by eyeball engineers nearly always end up overweight and having lower performance. Make changes very, very carefully and pay constant attention to weight. The best changes are those that make the airplane lighter, not heavier. I have a KR-1 that I have been flying since 1979 (built from the $25 mimeographed plans!) and in that time have worked to constantly drop the empty weight. It started at a portly 477 lbs and is now at 405. Believe me, the plane flies MUCH better at the lighter weight. Now it is down for a major rebuild after 22 years and 1000+ hours and my goal is an empty weight of 350 lbs. Bob >Netters > >(Catching up email, bad computer) : ( >I have had the Kr2 plans since "84, I all ways like this little bird and the >low cost of building. I would like to start building this summer, >I do want to widen the fuselage and lengthen it, even longer than the "S". >My concerns are the stability of the aircraft, I do not want a "weight >shift" plane my >where I have to be aware of my body position to keep it stable or flying it >with finger tips. Can this airplane be made to fly stable? Also I would >like to use thicker spruce, >can anyone see a problem with this? 5/8 wood does not sound thick enough to >me. >Maybe increasing the thickness to 1 inch? How does turbulence effect this >airplane? > There are times when we get tossed around pretty good. >I am not asking for any reassurance, I am not an engineer. Just wanting to >see >what other experimenters have done and their thoughts and solutions. > >Thank You all in advance >Keep up the great work > >Ray Brock >Omaha Nebr. > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:45:14 -0600 To: "KRNet" From: "Edwin Blocher" Cc: "corvaircraft" Subject: Transciever Message-ID: <003001c0af3c$536991e0$83e879a5@computer> ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C0AF0A.05BA40C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If any one is interested, Sporty's has their Transceiver marked down = $100. You can check it out at http://www,sportys.com. It was too good = for me to pass up. Ed Blocher Moody, Alabama kr-n899eb@mindspring.com ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C0AF0A.05BA40C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:50:07 -0600 To: "Edwin Blocher" , "KRNet" From: "Edwin Blocher" Cc: "corvaircraft" Subject: Re: KR> Transciever Message-ID: <003901c0af3d$00440ee0$83e879a5@computer> Sorry. Make that http://www.sportys.com Ed Blocher Moody, Alabama kr-n899eb@mindspring.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Edwin Blocher To: KRNet Cc: corvaircraft Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 5:45 PM Subject: KR> Transciever If any one is interested, Sporty's has their Transceiver marked down $100. You can check it out at http://www,sportys.com. It was too good for me to pass up. Ed Blocher Moody, Alabama kr-n899eb@mindspring.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 19:17:40 -0500 To: "Oscar Zuniga" , , From: "RONALD.FREIBERGER" Subject: RE: KR> Aeroconversions carb Message-ID: It looks like a Posa and reads like a Posa. I wonder how far you can throw one? Evemn my lawnmower has provisions to meter the fuel head. Ron Freiberger... mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: Oscar Zuniga [mailto:taildrags@hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 2:41 PM To: corvaircraft@usm.edu; krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> Aeroconversions carb Hello, netters; Anybody have any knowledge or information on the latest reincarnation of the Posa... the AeroConversions carb that the Sonex guys are using? (http://www.aeroconversions.com/) Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 10:22:42 -0800 To: taildrags@hotmail.com From: John P Moyle Cc: corvaircraft@usm.edu, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Aeroconversions carb Message-ID: <20010318.102244.-315403.2.jmoyle1@juno.com> Sunday, March 18th, 2001 Oscar, This "Posa look-alike" may have merit or not. too soon to tell since nobodies got one. Here is another choice worthy of consideration though, which has thousands in use on Harleys everywhere. My biker friends claim it is truly altitude compensating ( Loveland Pass is over 10,000 feet I think !) and they say it's as reliable as dirt. I'm assuming that's a compliment?? ;-) The Edelbrock Qwiksilver II is so remarkably similar to the Revmaster Revflow carb that one must almost believe that the castings come from the same source. I've held each in my hands at the WCCC event and externally they are dead ringers, with the obvious exception that the Edelbrock has a floatbowl and the Rev- flow doesn't. Check it out @ http://www.edelbrock.com/motorcycle/index.html The beauty of the motorcycle unit is the volume in production, there's a lot of experience to draw from, and success has led to high sales volume in turn holding the price per unit down. Individual price of $204 at my neighborhood H-D dealer. Ten or more in a group purchase yields a price under $150 !! Grand Aero's soon to be tested 3.1 liter CorvAircraft engine will feature this carb, so watch for more news on that subject here. John Moyle Grand Aero Craft mailto:jmoyle1@juno.com Sat, 17 Mar 2001 14:40:45 "Oscar Zuniga" writes: > Hello, netters; > > Anybody have any knowledge or information on the latest > reincarnation of the > Posa... the AeroConversions carb that the Sonex guys are using? > (http://www.aeroconversions.com/) > > Oscar Zuniga > Medford, Oregon > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.geocities.com/taildrags/ > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 20:11:12 -0500 To: Gognij@aol.com From: Tom Crawford CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Revmaster engine cowling Message-ID: <3AB40B30.38A4@ufl.edu> Gognij@aol.com wrote: > > Can anybody tell me for sure if the Revmaster engine cowling was made > of Vinelester resin, or epoxy resin. Jim, That cowl is made of Polyester. Repair with Polyester or Epoxy resin. -- Tom Crawford Gainesville, FL N262TC Mailto:toys@ufl.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 20:36:31 -0800 To: From: "Dave and Tina Goodman" Subject: Wingtips for new airfoil Message-ID: <000801c0af65$02636540$dc45a6d1@oemcomputer> Fellow builders, My outer wing fuel cells will be done by the end of next week, which means I will be foaming and glassing the wings here shortly. Question(s): - Is there any major difference (drag wise) between the various wingtip shapes out there? - If so, which one is the best on a KR size airfoil with the new design (AS vice RAF)? - Can anyone recommend a good publication on this for those of us who can read, but are not end-gi-nears? Thank you in advance for any input. Respectfully, Dave "Zipper" Goodman zipperts@whidbey.net ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 09:05:23 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Wingtips for new airfoil Message-ID: <003501c0afbc$dbbddee0$561cf618@600athlon> Zipper Goodman wrote: > - If so, which one is the best on a KR size airfoil with the new design (AS > vice RAF)? This is one of those things you could easily spend a year on researching (and still not come up with any appreciable improvement in drag), but from what I've been able to gather in the few years that I've been procrastinating over wing tips, the method of chamfering the bottom 45 degrees as detailed in the KR2 plans looks like the easiest way to get the most bang for the time expended. That method is one of Hoerner's favorites, as detailed in his "Aerodynamic Drag" book, 1951, by Sighard F. Hoerner. There's a chart in there in which he compares various types and this one has the lowest drag numbers, and is easiest to build, which is good enough for me. Diehl's wingtips are probably good too, but the thin little tips are prone to damage (ask Tom Crawford). Troy's wingtips are simply "rounded over" by eyeball, and they seem to work just fine. But I haven't decided for sure yet either, so further commentary is certainly welcome... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 21:11:02 -0800 To: KR-Net From: John Esch Subject: sanding bars Message-ID: <3AB44366.B6996E27@earthlink.net> Howdy all, I know it is not Friday, but since there was a thread about sanding bars, I came across and purchased one from my local hobby store. It is 44 inches long extruded aluminum "T" handle. I don't know if I can say manufactures names but interested I can email a picture and details off line. John F. Esch KR-2S Taxiway Bonanza, Independence, OR ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:31:38 -0800 (PST) To: Group KR NET From: Timothy Brown Subject: screw-up Message-ID: <20010318063138.2918.qmail@web9503.mail.yahoo.com> Dear Net: I screwed up and am looking for help to un-screw. I made two left outer aft spars. The fix was simple, just move the WAF. The problem is now I have two sets of hols within 1/4" of each other. Questions: Does it matter? Would filling the unused holes with epoxy and/or maple dowels be a good thing? Do I have to build a new outer aft spar? Thanks for the input. Tim __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 07:50:37 -0600 To: Timothy Brown From: Mark Jones CC: Group KR NET Subject: Re: KR> screw-up Message-ID: <3AB4BD2C.F4C20AC7@execpc.com> Tim, The fix to your problem is to use dowels coated with epoxy to fill the holes. Be sure to position the dowels with the cross grain running horizontal. Remember, a T-88 epoxy joint is far stronger than the wood if done properly. In all test I have done the wood failed before the epoxied joint did. Mark Jones Timothy Brown wrote: > Dear Net: > > I screwed up and am looking for help to un-screw. > > I made two left outer aft spars. The fix was simple, > just move the WAF. The problem is now I have two sets > of hols within 1/4" of each other. > > Questions: > > Does it matter? > > Would filling the unused holes with epoxy and/or maple > dowels be a good thing? > > Do I have to build a new outer aft spar? > > Thanks for the input. > > Tim > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 15:13:26 -0700 To: "Timothy Brown" , "Group KR NET" From: "Brian Vasseur" Subject: Re: KR> screw-up Message-ID: <002501c0aff8$a80194c0$2c45e4cf@C5477> You do have to fill the holes with dowels, but 1/4" dowels from home depot are OK, you don't have to find fancy hardwood dowels. Try and get the grain of the dowel in the same plane as the wood in the spar. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Timothy Brown" To: "Group KR NET" Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 11:31 PM Subject: KR> screw-up > Dear Net: > > I screwed up and am looking for help to un-screw. > > I made two left outer aft spars. The fix was simple, > just move the WAF. The problem is now I have two sets > of hols within 1/4" of each other. > > Questions: > > Does it matter? > > Would filling the unused holes with epoxy and/or maple > dowels be a good thing? > > Do I have to build a new outer aft spar? > > Thanks for the input. > > Tim > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 10:08:47 -0600 To: From: "Austin Clark" Subject: KR> Heel Brakes Message-ID: <000a01c0afc5$f244ff00$0100a8c0@mshome.net> ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0AF93.6C0516A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable After about 2 years of on-again, off-again work on my S, I have = re-gained some momentum and reached a milestone. My project now has = wheels and brakes and is no longer a static object occupying space in my = workshop. I can move it out, turn it around and roll it around in the = yard if I want to. While I am on a roll (oops, no pun intended), I want to get my brake = system done. I will install heel brakes and would like to see some = photos of various installations. Mark has a couple good photos on one = of his web pages of a KR with heel brakes and I may copy that design. = Maybe some other sites with photos of heel brake installations? Austin Clark KR2S Moss Point MS www.datasync.com/~itac =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0AF93.6C0516A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 10:19:47 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Frank Ross Subject: SUN-n- FUN 2001, Forums Message-ID: <20010318181947.23496.qmail@web4701.mail.yahoo.com> FYI Sun-n-Fun web site is: http://www.sun-n-fun.org Forums you may want to know about: Tuesday 0900: KR Forum J. Rand Wed 0900: Corvair Engines W. Wynne (spelled Winn on site) Also on Friday 13th Wed, 11 Apr 1100 AM: VW conversions Steve Bennett Tues & Wed 1200N: Stratus Subaru Mike Templeton Tues & Wed: Scott "Sky" Smith (Insurance guy) forums on "Selecting Your Next Project" and "The real cost of Ownership" ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 16:11:26 -0700 To: rme114@juno.com From: "Ross R. Youngblood" CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Oil temps Message-ID: <3AB5409E.19A7DD65@home.com> There was a nifty oil company ad that ran a year or so ago, where they recommended you calibrate your oil temp gague, and mark a temp (I think 180degrees?) which was the recommended operating point. Below this, and contimanates don't boil off (water... acids etc) and above this, the oil is getting too hot. Somthing like that... With that in mind... I recall other notes in the Great Plains buildup manual that indicated you can get vastly different oil temp readings depending on where you put your oil sender. The book recommended tapping the case for the sender. I just ignored the good advice, and tapped somthing I could replace if I screwed it up... the oil drain cover. I may get cooler than expected oil temperatures, but I can monitor them from that point... -- Ross rme114@juno.com wrote: > Maybe someone using VW power could tell me what the "normal" oil temp > range should be. I am looking at gauges and have several choises , some > start and 90* and others end at 550*. I'd like one where normal happens > in the middle of the gauge's range. Thanx, soon to be KR2 > driver, shooting for May, Steve > ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 00:22:27 +0100 From: "Doug Peyton" Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Fuel Leaks Message-ID: I put some fuel in my airplane for the first time today and it leaks. What do you-all recommend to put in the fuel line joints to stop the leak? The leaks are at 1/4" pipe-joint connections. Also, is it OK for shielded ignition wires to touch the top cowling? I may have to put some more bumps in my cowling to make clearance room for the spark-plug wires. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 17:27:32 -0700 To: Doug Peyton From: "Ross R. Youngblood" CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Fuel Leaks Message-ID: <3AB55274.203F3489@home.com> Teflon tape has been frowned upon, but I think it would work. I have recently purchased some liquid teflon compound, after talking with a gentleman who works with high vacuum environments in the semiconductor industry. They also don't want the environment contaminated. -- Ross Doug Peyton wrote: > I put some fuel in my airplane for the first time today and it leaks. > What do you-all recommend to put in the fuel line joints to stop the leak? > The leaks are at 1/4" pipe-joint connections. > > Also, is it OK for shielded ignition wires to touch the top cowling? > I may have to put some more bumps in my cowling to make clearance room for > the spark-plug wires. > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 19:36:48 -0500 To: Doug Peyton From: Tom Crawford CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Fuel Leaks Message-ID: <3AB554A0.60DB@ufl.edu> Doug Peyton wrote: > > I put some fuel in my airplane for the first time today and it leaks. > What do you-all recommend to put in the fuel line joints to stop the leak? Doug, Try Fuel Lube. ACS & Wicks should carry it. Tom Crawford Gainesville, FL N262TC Mailto:toys@ufl.edu ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 17:41:15 -0700 To: "Doug Peyton" From: "Brian Vasseur" Cc: Subject: Re: KR> Fuel Leaks Message-ID: <001d01c0b00d$4e4ce6e0$2c45e4cf@C5477> I had the same problem with my pipe joint connections. I ended up using teflon tape. I really hate doing this though because there's always the possibility that pieces of this can get into the fuel line. For all the AN flare fittings I used DEL seals (Aircraft spruce catalog on the AN fittings page). Anyone else have an ideal on the pipe joints. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Peyton" Cc: Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2001 4:22 PM Subject: KR> Fuel Leaks > I put some fuel in my airplane for the first time today and it leaks. > What do you-all recommend to put in the fuel line joints to stop the leak? > The leaks are at 1/4" pipe-joint connections. > > Also, is it OK for shielded ignition wires to touch the top cowling? > I may have to put some more bumps in my cowling to make clearance room for > the spark-plug wires. > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 16:31:38 -0800 (PST) To: Group KR NET From: Timothy Brown Subject: H.S.Hinges Message-ID: <20010319003138.83909.qmail@web9504.mail.yahoo.com> Netters: I am getting ready to get my H.S. (etc.) hinge material I just wanted to see if I am on the right track. I am reading materials from the A.S. & S. catalog because the Corona plant is about 15 minutes from my work. Fore the hinge channels, I am looking at pg 74 channel aluminum which is identified as 6063T52 U Channel, and specifically the 1" X 1" x 1/8" for the inside half of the hinge and the 1-1/4" X 1- 1/4" X 1/8" for the other. For the backup plate aluminum I am looking at pg 73 at the rectangular bar aluminum, specifically the 1/8" X 1" at $1.82 per foot. Finally, what are you all using for the hinge pins. Thanks so much for any info you might have. Tim __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 19:26:56 -0600 To: Timothy Brown From: Mark Jones CC: Group KR NET Subject: Re: KR> H.S.Hinges Message-ID: <3AB5605F.EF6BC7FA@execpc.com> Tim and others, Forget the aluminum channel hinges. They will work and are per plans but rod end bearings are state of the art and will give you smooth travel that the stock hinge will never do. These self align and are a breeze to install. Thanks to Dr. Dean Collette who put it all together for us. The following link will get you the information you need: http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/controls Once you are on this page scroll down to the second photo and click on it to go to Dr. Dean's set up. Hope this helps. Mark Jones Timothy Brown wrote: > Netters: > > I am getting ready to get my H.S. (etc.) hinge > material I just wanted to see if I am on the right > track. I am reading materials from the A.S. & S. > catalog because the Corona plant is about 15 minutes > from my work. > > Fore the hinge channels, I am looking at pg 74 channel > aluminum which is identified as 6063T52 U Channel, and > specifically the 1" X 1" x 1/8" for the inside half of > the hinge and the 1-1/4" X 1- 1/4" X 1/8" for the > other. > > For the backup plate aluminum I am looking at pg 73 at > the rectangular bar aluminum, specifically the 1/8" X > 1" at $1.82 per foot. > > Finally, what are you all using for the hinge pins. > > Thanks so much for any info you might have. > > Tim > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************