From: <krnet-digest-help@mailinglists.org>
To: <krnet@mailinglists.org>
Subject: krnet Digest 7 May 2001 01:35:54 -0000 Issue 218
Date: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:36 PM

krnet Digest 7 May 2001 01:35:54 -0000 Issue 218

Topics (messages 5201 through 5220):

Re: Advantages of a tapered wing?
	5201 by: Jerry Mahurin

Working with Fiberglass
	5202 by: Laheze.aol.com
	5204 by: Ron Eason
	5205 by: Frank Ross
	5207 by: Steven Eberhart

Revmaster cowlings?
	5203 by: Mark Langford
	5212 by: Kenneth L Wiltrout

Re: assistance with fiberglass "dumb and dumber"
	5206 by: Frank Ross

Re: Epoxy - Fiberglass Working
	5208 by: Frank Ross
	5209 by: Frank Ross

Re: N6399U
	5210 by: Bobby Muse

Re: KR W/A fittings
	5211 by: Robert Stone

Re: bell crank
	5213 by: Christine Coolidge

Re: KR2S for sale....
	5214 by: Christine Coolidge

Re: VW engine?
	5215 by: Christine Coolidge

Re: Wing tanks, aileron bellcrank, dragonfly canopy
	5216 by: Peter Nauta

Re: Rolling and Tipping
	5217 by: Ned Thomas

Diehl legs
	5218 by: Tim Brown
	5220 by: Mark Jones

fiberglass and epoxy
	5219 by: Bill Miller

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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 01:51:11 
To: DHEATH@scana.com, gti20vturbo@yahoo.com, krnet@mailinglists.org
From: "Jerry Mahurin" <jerrymahurin@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: KR> Advantages of a tapered wing?
Message-ID: <F55bqxEq3uU4RIAdiVZ00005993@hotmail.com>

Yep, the Taylor Monoplane used the RAF48 airfoil....

Jerry Mahurin
Lugoff, SC

>From: "HEATH, DANIEL R" <DHEATH@scana.com>
>To: "'Mike Mims'" <gti20vturbo@yahoo.com>, krnet@mailinglists.org
>Subject: RE: KR> Advantages of a tapered wing?
>Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 09:36:05 -0400
>
>You mean that Ken Rand used plans to build the KR?????????????  What plans
>were those?  I thought that he modeled it after the Taylor Monoplane.  Did
>it use the RAF 48?
>
>Don't know, just wondering.
>
>Daniel R. Heath
>DHeath@Scana.com
>(803)217-9984
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Mike Mims [mailto:gti20vturbo@yahoo.com]
>Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 9:31 AM
>To: krnet@mailinglists.org
>Subject: RE: KR> Advantages of a tapered wing?
>
>
><<<I did have a thought on the RAF-48 and maybe why
>Ken used it.  Maybe because it is not prone to trouble
>if it isn't built perfectly to spec and he wanted
>something that would not go nuts if one of us
>amateurs messed it up.
>
>  Maybe..................>>>
>
>
>He used it because the plans he used called for the RAF-48.
>
>__________________________________________________
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>Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 00:20:58 EDT
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
From: Laheze@aol.com
Subject: Working with Fiberglass
Message-ID: <76.a3f69c1.2824d9aa@aol.com>

Does anyone know for sure what is dissipating from the epoxy resin and 
hardener combination after it is mixed together and applied to the surface of 
whatever you are applying it to? If you know for a fact I would like to hear 
from you.
I know for a fact that after 25 years of using epoxies that sometimes and not 
always that there are bubbles or pockets of some sort of gas, air, or some 
gaseous residue trying to leave the scene as the mixture cures.
I have left perfect layups, well squeeged and looking perfect only to come 
back a while later and find as few as one to several of these areas as small 
as 1/8" to size of a penny. The technique that I used to remove these gas 
bubbles, air bubbles, chemical bubbles or whatever they were was to use 
something pointed to poke carefully through the resin and between the glass 
fibers to form a small exit hole for the air, gas, or whatever it is to 
escape and then stipple it back down to the surface that it was originally 
stuck to or laying on. If I did not return until the resin was already 
setting up I would then use a hairdryer to resoften the resin so I could 
stipple it down and work the air, gas, or whatever it is out and then it 
would lie back down.
I can't believe that anyone would be careless enough to leave glass cloth 
lying loose enough to form wrinkles big enough to capture a lot of air or 
form a weak spot in a layup. I would say that if their eye site is that bad 
that they should not be building an airplane or they should certainly get 
help while doing structural layups.
If you are hand mixing your resin and hardener, it is usually recommended 
that you make at least 100 rotations around the inside of the cup, stiring 
consistently and slowly certainly not fast enough to whip up a bunch of air 
bubbles in the epoxy.
While you are doing a layup and applying resin to your cloth, air can get 
trapped beneath the resin filled cloth and you can stipple out these bubbles 
as you find them. If the layup is fresh or new the bubbles can be removed 
easily by stippling but if it is setting up you can use the technique I 
mentioned earlier ( poke tiny hole ).
Hope this helps someone and I hope someone can help me with my Question at 
the beginning of this.

Larry Howell      laheze@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:45:53 -0500
To: <Laheze@aol.com>,
	<krnet@mailinglists.org>
From: "Ron Eason" <ron@jrl-engineering.com>
Subject: Re: KR> Working with Fiberglass
Message-ID: <000d01c0d57a$781d81e0$ad131a41@kc.rr.com>

I had the same problems.  The "out gassing" of curing resin is always their
and that what drove the vacuum lay-up idea and practice used to day.  I find
the peel-ply will help solve this problem in ambient temperature lay-ups.  A
LITTLE heat helps also.  Peel-ply makes a more uniform lay-up because the
fiberglass cloth will not float to the surface of the resin layer and little
or no sanding is required.

Ron

----- Original Message -----
From: <Laheze@aol.com>
To: <krnet@mailinglists.org>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 11:20 PM
Subject: KR> Working with Fiberglass

> Does anyone know for sure what is dissipating from the epoxy resin and
> hardener combination after it is mixed together and applied to the surface
of
> whatever you are applying it to? If you know for a fact I would like to
hear
> from you.
> I know for a fact that after 25 years of using epoxies that sometimes and
not
> always that there are bubbles or pockets of some sort of gas, air, or some
> gaseous residue trying to leave the scene as the mixture cures.
> I have left perfect layups, well squeeged and looking perfect only to come
> back a while later and find as few as one to several of these areas as
small
> as 1/8" to size of a penny. The technique that I used to remove these gas
> bubbles, air bubbles, chemical bubbles or whatever they were was to use
> something pointed to poke carefully through the resin and between the
glass
> fibers to form a small exit hole for the air, gas, or whatever it is to
> escape and then stipple it back down to the surface that it was originally
> stuck to or laying on. If I did not return until the resin was already
> setting up I would then use a hairdryer to resoften the resin so I could
> stipple it down and work the air, gas, or whatever it is out and then it
> would lie back down.
> I can't believe that anyone would be careless enough to leave glass cloth
> lying loose enough to form wrinkles big enough to capture a lot of air or
> form a weak spot in a layup. I would say that if their eye site is that
bad
> that they should not be building an airplane or they should certainly get
> help while doing structural layups.
> If you are hand mixing your resin and hardener, it is usually recommended
> that you make at least 100 rotations around the inside of the cup, stiring
> consistently and slowly certainly not fast enough to whip up a bunch of
air
> bubbles in the epoxy.
> While you are doing a layup and applying resin to your cloth, air can get
> trapped beneath the resin filled cloth and you can stipple out these
bubbles
> as you find them. If the layup is fresh or new the bubbles can be removed
> easily by stippling but if it is setting up you can use the technique I
> mentioned earlier ( poke tiny hole ).
> Hope this helps someone and I hope someone can help me with my Question at
> the beginning of this.
>
> Larry Howell      laheze@aol.com
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org
>
>
> To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org
> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 08:50:26 -0700 (PDT)
To: Laheze@aol.com, krnet@mailinglists.org
From: Frank Ross <kae_ar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: KR> Working with Fiberglass
Message-ID: <20010505155026.24672.qmail@web4701.mail.yahoo.com>

--- Laheze@aol.com wrote:
> ....what is dissipating from
> the epoxy .... combination after it is mixed
together .... Hope this helps someone and I hope
someone can help me with my Question .... 
> Larry Howell      laheze@aol.com

Larry,
My answer is from a working knowlege of chemistry, NOT
experience with fiberglass lay-ups. I'm NOT a chemist
either. 
Of course there's gas being released. When you mix the
epoxy or resin, it turns from a liquid to a solid AND
a gas. This chemical reaction produces a strong smell
and heat. Usually, the faster the reaction, the more
smell and heat. We want the "solid" part, the smell,
heat and gas are unwanted by-products. 
Handling the by-products is a problem we are faced
with and ignoring them will not make them go away. For
our purposes, it probably doesn't matter WHAT gas is
produced, but how to deal with it. Maybe the answer is
faster lay-ups, more stippling, poking tiny holes in
it, those all may work at different levels. For sure,
SOMETHING has to allow that gas to escape before the
solid part develops over it and traps it, making that
unwanted bubble in your lay-up.
I'd like to know what people who do large-production
lay-ups do to handle this problem. They've had to have
faced this and come up with quick and easy solutions. 
Any answers?

=====
Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 11:04:00 -0500 (CDT)
To:  <krnet@mailinglists.org>
From: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
Subject: Re: KR> Working with Fiberglass
Message-ID: <Pine.GSO.4.31.0105051055400.14244-100000@world.evansville.net>

On Sat, 5 May 2001, Frank Ross wrote:

> I'd like to know what people who do large-production
> lay-ups do to handle this problem. They've had to have
> faced this and come up with quick and easy solutions.
> Any answers?

One boat building company that I visited years ago used a roller to work
out their layups.  THis roller was made up from a bunch of washers when
stacked together on a through bolt that formed a roller about 3" wide.
THe diameter was about 2".  THe washer stack was made up from two
different diameter washers, alternating large and small washers.  THere
wasn't much difference in diameter between the two sizes, maybe 1/4"
diameter.  THey used this roller to work out all of the trapped air in the
layups and would come back several times to re-roll the surface.  THe back
and forth rolling seemed to do a good job.

THe Rutan video on fiberglassing showes Bert using a squegee to accomplish
the same thing.  THe quality of the video is poor but it is a great video.
Bought mine from Wicks

Steve Eberhart
mailto:newtech@newtech.com

One test is worth a thousand expert opinions but a thousand opinions are
easier to get.  --plagiarized from an unknown author

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 23:41:03 -0500
To: <krnet@mailinglists.org>
From: "Mark Langford" <langford@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Revmaster cowlings?
Message-ID: <094401c0d51d$979ef9c0$561cf618@600athlon>

CowlingHeads,

Is the KR2S cowling that RR sells just a drop-shipped standard gray
Revmaster cowling, or is it different but similar (2" wider at the bottom,
and made by somebody else)?   And doesn't Revmaster just sell one version of
this thing, which fits the KR2, but not KR2S?  Seems like somebody else
asked this question a while back, but I don't remember seeing an answer.  I
do know that the S firewall is 2" wider than the KR2's firewall.

Thanks for the help,

Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
mailto:langford@hiwaay.net
see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 20:23:34 -0400
To: langford@hiwaay.net
From: Kenneth L Wiltrout <klw1953@juno.com>
Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> Revmaster cowlings?
Message-ID: <20010505.202335.-259971.0.klw1953@juno.com>

Mark all I can tell you is that when I called RR about 4 yrs ago all she
wanted to know was which airplane I was building (KR2S) and what motor. I
have the 2100 Revmaster. I don't think Revmaster has any thing to do with
the cowl. I can say that you will have to drop the bottom to accept the
carb etc. I have the Rev-Flow.-------------Kenny

On Fri, 4 May 2001 23:41:03 -0500 "Mark Langford" <langford@hiwaay.net>
writes:
> CowlingHeads,
> 
> Is the KR2S cowling that RR sells just a drop-shipped standard gray
> Revmaster cowling, or is it different but similar (2" wider at the 
> bottom,
> and made by somebody else)?   And doesn't Revmaster just sell one 
> version of
> this thing, which fits the KR2, but not KR2S?  Seems like somebody 
> else
> asked this question a while back, but I don't remember seeing an 
> answer.  I
> do know that the S firewall is 2" wider than the KR2's firewall.
> 
> Thanks for the help,
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
> mailto:langford@hiwaay.net
> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org
> 
> 
> To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org
> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org
> 

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 09:03:39 -0700 (PDT)
To: krnet <krnet@mailinglists.org>
From: Frank Ross <kae_ar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: KR> assistance with fiberglass "dumb and dumber"
Message-ID: <20010505160339.15349.qmail@web4703.mail.yahoo.com>

Bill,
Could be worse. I read of a Long EZ builder who forgot
to take peel-ply off his wing layups and glassed over
it. Had to re-do the whole thing. Expensive, but not
half as bad as trying to fly it. 
Glad you told us about this, may have saved someone
else the problem.
--- "w.g. kirkland" wrote:
<SNIP>
> I can't believe I just layed up my seat pan with
> four layers of oh no! "peel ply "
> W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND
 

=====
Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:18:05 -0700 (PDT)
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
From: Frank Ross <kae_ar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy - Fiberglass Working
Message-ID: <20010505171805.16893.qmail@web4703.mail.yahoo.com>

Another great thing about Bill's mistake is that we
got another very thorough review by Peter. I have a
file of his paint posts and now I have this one on
glassing. Thank you Peter. 
Now, if only my computer could learn to spell 
"vapour", "practise", "endeavour" and all those other
foreign words they use in England. What do we do with
all those left over "u"s anyway?

=====
Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:26:53 -0700 (PDT)
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
From: Frank Ross <kae_ar@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy - Fiberglass Working
Message-ID: <20010505172653.6204.qmail@web4704.mail.yahoo.com>

...all those other foreign words they use in England. 

Oops, and Canada, sorry,

=====
Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX,

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 14:06:21 -0500
To: "HEATH, DANIEL R" <DHEATH@scana.com>
From: Bobby Muse <bmuse@ev1.net>
CC: 'Kenneth L Wiltrout' <klw1953@juno.com>, krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> N6399U
Message-ID: <3AF44F2D.894DCDF3@ev1.net>

"HEATH, DANIEL R" wrote:

> Speaking of inspections reminded me of one thing the inspector pointed out
> to me on my first KR.  He had me replace the single long bolt ( pin ) that
> attached the top and the one that attached the bottom of the wing, with
> individual bolts for each attach point.  Does anyone have an opinion on
> which way is best?
>
> I am looking at using one bolt with a spacer between, on this one.
>
> Daniel R. Heath
> DHeath@Scana.com
> (803)217-9984

Dan,  Why would you want a single point of failure?  You should thank your
inspector.

Bobby Muse

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 14:35:53 -0500
To: "KRNet" <krnet@mailinglists.org>
From: "Robert Stone" <rlspjs@dashlink.com>
Subject: RE: KR W/A fittings
Message-ID: <002d01c0d59a$9e5319e0$ebd8fea9@pavilion>

------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C0D570.B0169FA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Netheads:  I have never heard of a failure of the wing attach fittings =
on any KR aircraft however it's the opinion of this builder that each =
individual fitting should have a high shear aircraft quality bolt, two =
washers, and a lock nut.

Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx
rlspjs@dashlink.com

------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C0D570.B0169FA0--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 23:39:09 -0700
To: T152GMAN@aol.com
From: Christine Coolidge <usaus@juno.com>
Cc: raymond.brock@home.com, krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> bell crank
Message-ID: <20010506.000824.-929885.1.USAUS@juno.com>

Tony,

I did not cut mine but it was very tight and basicly it wound up just
under the bid 
with me removing all the foam in that area.

Regards
Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 00:03:01 -0700
To: flesner@midwest.net
From: Christine Coolidge <usaus@juno.com>
Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> KR2S for sale....
Message-ID: <20010506.000825.-929885.6.USAUS@juno.com>

Mean Bastards!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 23:46:07 -0700
To: norm.f.garland@lmco.com
From: Christine Coolidge <usaus@juno.com>
Cc: kogelmannc@yline.com, krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> Fw: VW engine?
Message-ID: <20010506.000824.-929885.2.USAUS@juno.com>

36 HP on a KR , What engine failuremaybe lack of power!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 10:50:58 +0200
To: "Krnet@Mailinglists. Org" <krnet@mailinglists.org>
From: "Peter Nauta" <p.nauta@wanadoo.nl>
Subject: RE: KR> Wing tanks, aileron bellcrank, dragonfly canopy
Message-ID: <NEBBJODPPGBOMHDAFOKOIEMFDAAA.p.nauta@wanadoo.nl>

I got the answer on the Dragonfly source, it was on the list a while ago,
sorry to bother.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Nauta [mailto:p.nauta@wanadoo.nl]
> Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2001 12:13 AM
> To: Krnet@Mailinglists. Org
> Subject: KR> Wing tanks, aileron bellcrank, dragonfly canopy
>
>
> Hi,
>
> 1. I'll be starting a KR2-S some time soon.  I plan on using a BMW engine,
> which consumes 10-13 liter per hour.  So, I'd like to stick to
> two tanks in
> the center section, outboard of the fuselage.
>
> Because of this, I would like to keep the space between the two
> spars clean.
> Can I change the aileron cables so the cables run behind the aft spar?
>
> 2. Any idea where to get a Dragonfly canopy?
>
> Groeten,
>
> Peter Nauta
> p.nauta@wanadoo.nl (until june 2001)
> pnauta@xs4all.nl (from june 2001 onwards)
> +31(0)6 51411018
> Fax: +31(0)84 8663552 <- AREA CODE CHANGED!
> Fax and voicemail: +1(413)235-8017
> http://www.fs2000.nl
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org
>
>
> To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org
> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 08:43:00 -0500
To: Peter Johnson <pjohnson@voyageur.ca>
From: Ned Thomas <nthomas@mmcable.com>
CC: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: Re: KR> Rolling and Tipping
Message-ID: <3AF554E4.99757C54@mmcable.com>

Hello Peter and group,

I was off the KRNet the last 5 months and may have missed The remaining articles about rolling and tipping.  If anyone has copies of these articles I would greatly appreciate receiving them. The following article was posted last December 28th.  I would like to try the Rolling and tipping method and am nearly ready to start painting.

Thanks,
Ned

Peter Johnson wrote:

> I have been negligent with my description of 'Rolling and Tipping' as a good way to finish your plane, here goes...
>
> The first thing I talked about was surface preparation, making the surface both FLAT and SMOOTH.  Once you've done that, the next thing will be to make the airplane and the shop area ready for painting.  Daunting somewhat isn't it?!  After making so much dust it seems easier to just move the plane somewhere else and paint it there!
>
> Here's what I've been doing for years to paint in 'dirty surroundings, it works and is easy to do.
>
> First, you do have to clean the shop us somewhat, even if you just vacuum really well, something has to be done to get the worst of the loose stuff out of the way.
>
> Next, make a 'paint booth' for yourself.  Use cheap plastic from the hardware store and a stapler.  Wrap the plastic across the ceiling and all around the plane leaving an overlapping area that you will use as access to the booth.  If it is better for you, hang the plastic from the ceiling and down over your benches etc.  When you are going to paint, crank the heat up in the shop to 80 or so prior to going in. (You can tell where I live!).  When you enter the shop again to begin painting, turn the heat down, this will reduce the amount of air and dust movement around your plane.
>
> Now, the only way to get dust out of the air is to use water.  I use a 2 gal 'pump up' kind of sprayer and spray EVERYTHING inside the booth with a mist of water prior to painting including the airplane.  With the heat up the water dries quickly, and tacking everything down prior to painting highlights any remaining water drops which you wipe up.  Put on freshly washed shop clothes prior to entering the shop, make sure the sleaves are not loose and hanging down.  Tack everything in a methodical, slow process, you don't want to miss any areas.
>
> The next thing to do is get your paint supplies ready.  If you are spraying, you will know what you need to do, (I've never sprayed a big project before.  The little KR is a perfect size to paint using by rolling and tipping).  We use a handy TV table on rollers to put our paint, paint supplies, tack rags, etc on.  It is really handy in that it keeps the paint tray at a level that you can reach, it pushes easily with your knee, keeps everything handy, and of course if frees your hands up!
>
> To roll and tip, you will need good bristle brushes that have been cleaned out!, or just foam brushes.  I have had good luck using both.  If I use a brush, I use an expensive brush, and it hurts to throw them out afterwards, I won't reuse a bristle brush, it just isn't worth the risk of getting particles in the finish.  Foamies are a little harder to work with, but they do offer better 'control'.  Use a wide brush, if you can get 6" brushes, good!  Have some smaller ones on hand on the tray too, you will need those in small, cornered areas.
>
> You will need a container with a rod across the opening.  I use liter size plastic yogurt containers with 1/4" dia rod pushed through across the top, you get the idea...
>
> Ok, so here we are ready to paint.  For those of you who have not rolled or tipped before, I would suggest practising on a piece of masonite or similar.  'Rolling and Tipping' is not something that can 'just be done', the technique does have to be learned.  Before even opening a can of paint, go through a series of 'dry runs'.  Try to think of ever eventuallity that may occur while you are working, and come up with a good routine and process to use.
>
> Sorry this note has gone on so long.  Now that 'Preparation' is finished, I will send this off.  I will get to the actual application technique next and a discussion of paints and fillers in my next missive.
>
> Happy building everyone, and a good New Year...!!!!
>
> mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 11:45:26 -0700 (PDT)
To: Group KR NET <krnet@mailinglists.org>
From: Tim Brown <timwbrown@yahoo.com>
Subject: Diehl legs
Message-ID: <20010506184526.19090.qmail@web9502.mail.yahoo.com>

Dear Net:

Well I just did my first glass operation...applied the
first layer of glass to the Diehl legs...(tri, 2S).

Turned out reasonably well...and I used peel ply over
all of it for "straw" fairings to go on today.

Anyway, now the question:

When I applied the epoxy it dissolved the word
"forward " and the arrow which Diehl writes on the
leg.  On the leg there is a slight angle from straight
on one side and more or an angle on the other. 
Working from memory I think forward was the "more of
an angle" side.  Again...tri-gear 2S.

Can anyone verify whether I am right or wrong.

Thanks.

Tim

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 May 2001 20:38:14 -0500
To: Tim Brown <timwbrown@yahoo.com>
From: Mark Jones <flykr2s@execpc.com>
CC: Group KR NET <krnet@mailinglists.org>
Subject: Re: KR> Diehl legs
Message-ID: <3AF5FC86.574FD68B@execpc.com>

Tim and all,
The side of the Diehl gear leg with the most angle does face forward as
the leading edge. Take a builders square, place it on the back of the
forward main spar, measure to the centerline of the axle and your axle
centerline should be 4 1/2" aft of the rear side of the main spar. Hope
this helps...

Mark Jones

Tim Brown wrote:

> Dear Net:
>
> Well I just did my first glass operation...applied the
> first layer of glass to the Diehl legs...(tri, 2S).
>
> Turned out reasonably well...and I used peel ply over
> all of it for "straw" fairings to go on today.
>
> Anyway, now the question:
>
> When I applied the epoxy it dissolved the word
> "forward " and the arrow which Diehl writes on the
> leg.  On the leg there is a slight angle from straight
> on one side and more or an angle on the other.
> Working from memory I think forward was the "more of
> an angle" side.  Again...tri-gear 2S.
>
> Can anyone verify whether I am right or wrong.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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--
Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI   USA
E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 18:00:11 -0400
To: <krnet@mailinglists.org>
From: "Bill Miller" <miller_william@hotmail.com>
Subject: fiberglass and epoxy
Message-ID: <OE70VxONvzyJxArGvnC00002f31@hotmail.com>

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I have been looking over my kr2 plans...and trying to estimate about how =
much material is required. It gives the spruce list, but that is all.
My questions are...
1. about how many 24x48 sheets of 2" foam is required for the tail =
assembly?
 2. how many 24x48 sheets of 1" foam is required for the wing =
assemblies?
3. how many yards of 5.85oz fiberglass cloth is required?
4. about how many gal. of epoxy?
5. how many 4x8 sheets of 3/32 ply is required for the fuse?

i appreciate any replies.....have to work out the budget so i can get =
this bird started!
=20

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff =
background=3Dcid:004501c0d677$ec0867c0$06c2c0be@macent>
<DIV>I have been looking over my kr2 plans...and trying to estimate =
about how=20
much material is required. It gives the spruce list, but that is =
all.</DIV>
<DIV>My questions are...</DIV>
<DIV>1. about how many 24x48 sheets of 2" foam is required for the tail=20
assembly?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;2. how many 24x48 sheets of 1" foam is required for the wing=20
assemblies?</DIV>
<DIV>3. how many yards of 5.85oz fiberglass cloth is required?</DIV>
<DIV>4.&nbsp;about how many gal. of epoxy?</DIV>
<DIV>5.&nbsp;how many&nbsp;4x8 sheets of 3/32 ply is required for the=20
fuse?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>i appreciate any replies.....have to work out the budget so i can =
get this=20
bird started!</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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End of krnet Digest
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