From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 19 Aug 2001 03:16:25 -0000 Issue 271 Date: Saturday, August 18, 2001 8:16 PM krnet Digest 19 Aug 2001 03:16:25 -0000 Issue 271 Topics (messages 6378 through 6403): HEAT GUN ? BLOWTORCH ? 6378 by: Philip J. Visconti Re: Primer for rolling and tipping? 6379 by: Tracy & Carol O'Brien web page 6380 by: Tim Brown 2400 VW CHT temps 6381 by: Kevin Lampon $1500.00 CASH 6382 by: Schmidt, Curtis 6385 by: Greg S Martin 6389 by: Robert Stone Re: Micro slurry 6383 by: Peg and Mike Meyer 6384 by: Mark Langford 6386 by: Richard Parker 6387 by: Jim Morehead 6388 by: Peg and Mike Meyer An Option to Micro-Slurry 6390 by: Peter Johnson 6391 by: Mark Langford Re: Pull test 6392 by: René Lemelin 6393 by: René Lemelin 6394 by: Robert X. Cringely Re: KR toe in 6395 by: clair d boyd 6396 by: Guenther Bryce 6397 by: Mark Langford 6398 by: JEAN VERON 6399 by: Mark Langford 6401 by: Daniel Heath rudder 6400 by: Tim Brown 6403 by: Mark Jones Sand Paper? 6402 by: POND CARTER Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 23:11:05 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Philip J. Visconti" Subject: HEAT GUN ? BLOWTORCH ? Message-ID: <20010816.233013.-212957.1.viscan@juno.com> "Youse guys" are crazy ! However.....since I am working on wing under carport, and carport is attached to house, what if it catches fire ? If it burns down the house, maybe I can sue the guys that suggested using heat to remove epoxy from wing spar caps. Son-of-a-gun....they were right !!! It worked !!! I guess I can't sue. Oh, well. I started on the bottom of the wing spars, since I had turned the wing over when I popped the skin off. I was able to use the heat gun, to soften epoxy and remove it. When epoxy softened, I used a small 1/2 inch wide chisel to pry it off spar caps. I removed about 2 feet of epoxy in about 15 minutes. When I used sanding belt, I removed thickness only 1/16th of an inch of epoxy over smaller area and it took about ten minutes. Had used 50 grit paper. Using the blowtorch, I had a little problem. The wing caught on fire. Actually, it was the resin in the 'glass that was on fire. The previous builder had 'glassed alongside the spar onto the bottom skin. So, when skin was removed, there was left a thin layer of resin and 'glass sticking out along spar cap edge. The epoxy had wicked into the spar caps. When I removed the epoxy, there were small areas where portions of the wood stayed with the epoxy. This was not more that a 64th of wood thickness removed. The blowtorch did act quicker, but I could not control it as easily as the heat gun. (As you can see from statement above.) Plus the torch scorched the wood in areas where the epoxy had not flowed. So, I guess I should say "THANK YOU" to those geniuses that told me about heating the epoxy. Maybe I won't have to build another set of wings after all. Phil ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 20:43:00 -0700 To: "ROBERT COOPER" , "Peter Johnson" , "POND CARTER" ,"krnet" , "Ned Thomas" From: Tracy & Carol O'Brien Subject: Re: KR> Primer for rolling and tipping? Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20010816204300.006f12b8@localaccess.com> Netters: Regarding rollers for "Rolling & tipping": System Three Resins carries the thin, yellow foam rollers with paper tubes. Their toll free order number is 800-333-5514. I've used the R&T painting method for about 15 years. As Peter mentioned, the single part oil based marine enamels are wonderful to work with and look great. They are also economical to work with: I'd bet you could come pretty close to painting a KR-2 with a single quart of enamel! I use a 12" square of 1/8" plywood as a "platen" instead of a paint pan, as it keeps the roller ends from filling up with paint. I put enough paint for the coat in a can and pour it onto the platen as I go. I generally add a few drops of cobalt drier per oz of paint to the mix in the can. I also use a retarding type thinner if the weather is hot. The foam roller leaves bubbles in the paint as you roll it on which is a great indicator of where you are working. The foam brush removes the bubbles and leaves a mirror like surface. The West System folks use the R&T method on everything they build (like 60' cats, etc)! Regards, Tracy O'Brien ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 22:00:50 -0700 (PDT) To: Group KR NET From: Tim Brown Subject: web page Message-ID: <20010817050050.31754.qmail@web9504.mail.yahoo.com> Well, my daughter came home for a week between college summer and college fall semesters and I made her create a web page for me. It is VERY rough, but it is a start. Hope you like it. I hope others will get some benefit from it as I have benefitted from all of you. Site is at: angelfire.com/super/timkr2s (I think this is right) If not, I'll advise. Thanks to all who have advised me. Tim __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 00:51:31 -0800 To: From: "Kevin Lampon" Subject: 2400 VW CHT temps Message-ID: <000c01c126f9$d0b639c0$0af81918@hawaii.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C126B6.C1A98420 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone know the operating temps for CHT and EGT the 2400cc VW = engine? Thanks, Kevin ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C126B6.C1A98420-- ------------------------------ Date: 17 Aug 2001 08:48:00 -0700 To: "krnet@mailinglists.org" From: "Schmidt, Curtis" Subject: $1500.00 CASH Message-ID: <000C6B74@kaydon.com> Come and get it out of my garage! its time to move on to other things! Firs= t $1500 cash takes it! Located in Larned Kansas. FOR SALE Rand Robinson KR-2 (standard) (Fuselage) All wood work complete. Horizontal and vertical stabs built, glassed and installed. Rear turtle deck on and glassed. Canopy partially complete. Sitting on custom built gear with mechanical brakes. (some pictures show retracts, they are not in the airplane anymore but do g= o with the project) Custom heavy-duty dual sticks. Fiberglass seats Center spars installed Aileron bell cranks built and installed. All control cables installed. (Wing) Spars complete with wing attach fittings in place. Center section ribs cut out and ready to install No foam work done on the wings. (Engine)One complete stock VW type-4 2 liter. One partial VW type-4 with a good 78 mm stroke crank. 2 sets of used heads All engine parts not yet converted for aircraft use. Price first $1500 CASH "come and get it!" See at http://kr2s.bouyea.net/krnet under the classifieds. Curtis Schmidt E-mail cschmidt@kaydon.com Phone at work till 3:30 CST. (620)-792-4368 ext. 427 After 5:00 (620)-285-7269 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:27:01 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Greg S Martin Subject: Re: KR> $1500.00 CASH Message-ID: <20010817.092948.-805281.2.idrawtobuild@juno.com> Come and get it out of the hanger. The fellow I'm renting space from is moving our in one month. Located in Tehachapi, California. FOR SALE Rand Robinson KR-2S (Fuselage) All wood work complete. Horizontal and elevators, vertical rudder built, glassed and installed. Turtle deck, canopy frame, instrument cover in carbon fiber. smoke canopy set up for retracts Custom heavy-duty dual sticks. Center spars installed Aileron bell cranks built and installed. All control cables installed. (Outer front Wing) Spars, one complete and one started No foam work done on the wings. (Engine)1600VW that was installed on another plan and running, slick mag, posa carb. Price first $1950 CASH "come and get it!" Greg S. Martin Building Designer 20909 South Street, Suite #3, Tehachapi, CA 93561 661-823-9401, fax 823-9381 cellular 661-204-9723 idrawtobuild@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 15:22:51 -0500 To: "Schmidt, Curtis" , From: "Robert Stone" Subject: Re: KR> $1500.00 CASH Message-ID: <000001c1275b$6d725080$ebd8fea9@pavilion> Tail dragger or nose gear. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Schmidt, Curtis" To: Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 10:48 AM Subject: KR> $1500.00 CASH > Come and get it out of my garage! its time to move on to other things! First $1500 cash takes it! > Located in Larned Kansas. > > FOR SALE > Rand Robinson KR-2 (standard) > (Fuselage) All wood work complete. > Horizontal and vertical stabs built, glassed and installed. > Rear turtle deck on and glassed. > Canopy partially complete. > Sitting on custom built gear with mechanical brakes. > (some pictures show retracts, they are not in the airplane anymore but do go with the project) > Custom heavy-duty dual sticks. > Fiberglass seats > Center spars installed > Aileron bell cranks built and installed. > All control cables installed. > (Wing) Spars complete with wing attach fittings in place. > Center section ribs cut out and ready to install > No foam work done on the wings. > (Engine)One complete stock VW type-4 2 liter. > One partial VW type-4 with a good 78 mm stroke crank. > 2 sets of used heads > All engine parts not yet converted for aircraft use. > Price first $1500 CASH "come and get it!" > See at http://kr2s.bouyea.net/krnet under the classifieds. > Curtis Schmidt > E-mail cschmidt@kaydon.com > Phone at work till 3:30 CST. (620)-792-4368 ext. 427 > After 5:00 (620)-285-7269 > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:18:17 -0500 To: POND CARTER , kr From: Peg and Mike Meyer Subject: Re: KR> Micro slurry Message-id: <009901c1272f$d82787a0$6be9fea9@o0c8u6> I have been experimenting with some possible solutions to the dry micro rolls-up-into-a-big-ball-can't-spread-this-crap-around-I'm-really-getting-pi ssed-off problem and I think I've come up with a solution. First, prepare a standard dry micro mix. Then, cut the mixure with about 4-5% isopropyl alcohol (i.e, rubbing alcohol). Then mix the resulting compound throughly. You'll wind up with a very smooth, lightweight, spreadable compound. The isopropyl alcohol has the net effect of solubilizing the exopy without having interferring with the exopy reaction. (An exopy reaction involves triplet oxygen spliting to singlet oxygen causing a quasi-polymerizing effect -this is why exopy is so rigid when it sets up. The alcohol doesn't interfere with this process, but merely decreases the density of the exopy.The alcohol eventually evaporates) I'm using Aeropoxy, and I have worked up several varying solutions, and I think the 4-5% cut is best. PLEASE, try it yourself to confirm my results on something other then that beautiful aircraft you've work so hard. FYI, my first experiments were last fall, and judging from the results, I think this expoy-alcohol combination is every bit as hard and durable as straight dry-micro. Mike Meyer ----- Original Message ----- From: "POND CARTER" To: "kr" Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 12:14 AM Subject: KR> Micro slurry > Hi guys > Is there anything I can put on my rubber putty spreader to help spread > dry micro slurry or micro ballons and resin? I was thinking of some > thing much like water on an icecream scoop helps the cause. > Carter > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:23:00 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Micro slurry Message-ID: <000901c12730$815c2e20$5f0ca58c@mlangford> > I have been experimenting with some possible solutions to the dry micro > rolls-up-into-a-big-ball-can't-spread-this-crap-around-I'm-really-getting-pi > ssed-off problem You may already be doing this, but I find it makes a huge difference to wipe a very thin layer of straight epoxy on the surface first, especially if it's glass or carbon fiber. Not much, because too much will just make hard places in your micro, but just enough to make it stick a little better, almost as if you squeegee it on and then try to squeegee it off again. You may already be doing that though. One sure cure is don't make it so dry, but then it's a little harder to sand, and not as light, but I'm sure you knew that already too... Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 17:22:22 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Richard Parker" Subject: Re: KR> Micro slurry Message-ID: just be careful that the epoxy doesnt kick off too early or dont try to add it too late as the added alcohol may ignite. Richard Parker >From: Peg and Mike Meyer >To: POND CARTER , kr >Subject: Re: KR> Micro slurry >Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:18:17 -0500 > >I have been experimenting with some possible solutions to the dry micro >rolls-up-into-a-big-ball-can't-spread-this-crap-around-I'm-really-getting-pi >ssed-off problem and I think I've come up with a solution. First, prepare a >standard dry micro mix. Then, cut the mixure with about 4-5% isopropyl >alcohol (i.e, rubbing alcohol). Then mix the resulting compound throughly. >You'll wind up with a very smooth, lightweight, spreadable compound. The >isopropyl alcohol has the net effect of solubilizing the exopy without >having interferring with the exopy reaction. (An exopy reaction involves >triplet oxygen spliting to singlet oxygen causing a quasi-polymerizing >effect -this is why exopy is so rigid when it sets up. The alcohol doesn't >interfere with this process, but merely decreases the density of the >exopy.The alcohol eventually evaporates) I'm using Aeropoxy, and I have >worked up several varying solutions, and I think the 4-5% cut is best. >PLEASE, try it yourself to confirm my results on something other then that >beautiful aircraft you've work so hard. FYI, my first experiments were last >fall, and judging from the results, I think this expoy-alcohol combination >is every bit as hard and durable as straight dry-micro. > >Mike Meyer > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "POND CARTER" >To: "kr" >Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 12:14 AM >Subject: KR> Micro slurry > > > > Hi guys > > Is there anything I can put on my rubber putty spreader to help spread > > dry micro slurry or micro ballons and resin? I was thinking of some > > thing much like water on an icecream scoop helps the cause. > > Carter > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! > > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . >AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:23:43 -0700 To: Peg and Mike Meyer , POND CARTER , kr From: Jim Morehead Subject: Re: KR> Micro slurry Message-ID: on 8/17/01 8:18 AM, Peg and Mike Meyer at pmmeyer@swbell.net wrote: > I have been experimenting with some possible solutions to the dry micro > rolls-up-into-a-big-ball-can't-spread-this-crap-around-I'm-really-getting-pi > ssed-off problem and I think I've come up with a solution. First, prepare a > standard dry micro mix. Then, cut the mixure with about 4-5% isopropyl > alcohol (i.e, rubbing alcohol). Then mix the resulting compound throughly. > You'll wind up with a very smooth, lightweight, spreadable compound. The > isopropyl alcohol has the net effect of solubilizing the exopy without > having interferring with the exopy reaction. (An exopy reaction involves > triplet oxygen spliting to singlet oxygen causing a quasi-polymerizing > effect -this is why exopy is so rigid when it sets up. The alcohol doesn't > interfere with this process, but merely decreases the density of the > exopy.The alcohol eventually evaporates) I'm using Aeropoxy, and I have > worked up several varying solutions, and I think the 4-5% cut is best. > PLEASE, try it yourself to confirm my results on something other then that > beautiful aircraft you've work so hard. FYI, my first experiments were last > fall, and judging from the results, I think this expoy-alcohol combination > is every bit as hard and durable as straight dry-micro. > > Mike Meyer > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "POND CARTER" > To: "kr" > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 12:14 AM > Subject: KR> Micro slurry > > Mike, Did you use rubbing alcohol? Some of is only 70% isopropyl alcohol and 30% water. Is the water a problem? Thanks, Jim Morehead Cameron park, CA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 15:38:03 -0500 To: Jim Morehead , POND CARTER , kr From: Peg and Mike Meyer Subject: Re: KR> Micro slurry Message-id: <001801c1275c$8a2c0620$c177fea9@o0c8u6> I've used both drugstore rubbing alcohol and 100% isopropyl alcohol, and as far as I can tell, there is not a bit of difference in the final product. As I mentioned in my original email, I highly recommend several test swatches so you that can confirm my results. Personally, I think the resulting mixture is far better than dry micro because: 1) the adhesion to the applied surface is excellent and 2) it applys very smoothly and can be drawn out to very thin layers. Dry micro is just non-structral fill anyhow, and this is, as far as I can tell, a better solution. I hope your experimentation proves equally fruitful. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Morehead" To: "Peg and Mike Meyer" ; "POND CARTER" ; "kr" Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 12:23 PM Subject: Re: KR> Micro slurry > on 8/17/01 8:18 AM, Peg and Mike Meyer at pmmeyer@swbell.net wrote: > > > I have been experimenting with some possible solutions to the dry micro > > rolls-up-into-a-big-ball-can't-spread-this-crap-around-I'm-really-getting-pi > > ssed-off problem and I think I've come up with a solution. First, prepare a > > standard dry micro mix. Then, cut the mixure with about 4-5% isopropyl > > alcohol (i.e, rubbing alcohol). Then mix the resulting compound throughly. > > You'll wind up with a very smooth, lightweight, spreadable compound. The > > isopropyl alcohol has the net effect of solubilizing the exopy without > > having interferring with the exopy reaction. (An exopy reaction involves > > triplet oxygen spliting to singlet oxygen causing a quasi-polymerizing > > effect -this is why exopy is so rigid when it sets up. The alcohol doesn't > > interfere with this process, but merely decreases the density of the > > exopy.The alcohol eventually evaporates) I'm using Aeropoxy, and I have > > worked up several varying solutions, and I think the 4-5% cut is best. > > PLEASE, try it yourself to confirm my results on something other then that > > beautiful aircraft you've work so hard. FYI, my first experiments were last > > fall, and judging from the results, I think this expoy-alcohol combination > > is every bit as hard and durable as straight dry-micro. > > > > Mike Meyer > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "POND CARTER" > > To: "kr" > > Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 12:14 AM > > Subject: KR> Micro slurry > > > > > Mike, > Did you use rubbing alcohol? Some of is only 70% isopropyl alcohol and > 30% water. Is the water a problem? > > Thanks, > Jim Morehead > Cameron park, CA > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 18:53:46 -0700 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: An Option to Micro-Slurry Message-ID: <004c01c12788$c3775de0$4da5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01C1274D.F1DF68C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I recall reading in a text some years ago, and I've never been able to = find it again, that a good filler for the foam prior to clothing is = plain old white, flat, latex house paint. I've accidently spread epoxy on gloss latex before, and it doesn't come = off without lifting the paint in the process. The idea of the flat = latex is to provide a more porous surface for the epoxy to penetrate. The whole idea of the micro-slurry as I understand it is to fill the = pores of the foam so that pinholing is reduced, and to provide a greater = total gluing surface for the epoxy. The paint is going to fill the = pores of the foam, there's no doubt about that, and as for adhesion, I'm = almost sure that a penetrating film of paint on the foam surface would = would tear the foam away just as readily as the epoxy will. As for any = kind of 'life factor', I don't think there would be any degredation of = the paint by the epoxy or other factors over time. I've got some foam test coins already cut which I'll paint soon enough. = I know that the epoxy is going to adhere to the paint, and I know that = the paint will adhere to the foam and I suppose I'm just going to have = to go out and do some testing aren't I?!! =20 I'm curious to hear what comments you all may have on this. I'll report = back with the results..... mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01C1274D.F1DF68C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 19:05:09 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> An Option to Micro-Slurry Message-ID: <009901c12779$71eeb540$0100a8c0@cmc3075662a> >> The whole idea of the micro-slurry as I understand it is to fill the pores of the foam so that pinholing is reduced, and to provide a greater total gluing surface for the epoxy. The paint is going to fill the pores of the foam, there's no doubt about that, and as for adhesion, I'm almost sure that a penetrating film of paint on the foam surface would would tear the foam away just as readily as the epoxy will. << I hate to be a naysayer, but I think the main purpose of micro slurry on foam is to fill the pores with something light like micro rather than something heavy like epoxy or paint. I don't think increasing adhesion by getting more "tooth" in the epoxy to improve adhesion is the point, since the tensile strength of foam is just about nil anyway... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 11:53:30 -0400 To: From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9_Lemelin?= Subject: Fw: Pull test Message-ID: <002401c127fd$ee420dc0$35a1fdcf@oemcomputer> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Yves Lemelin" To: Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 11:01 AM Subject: Pull test > Hi Rene, > Just wondering if the guys over Kr-net do any pull test and compare numbers > with each other to kind of establish a workable prop/h.p. range? Last week i > saw a guy testing is 601 with a couple of pulleys, a rope and an oil cylinder > with a pressure gage attached to it. He tied one pulley on the back of his > machine, the other to a secure tiedown point and he floored it. He got a > reading of 350 lbs. He told me that the contraption was passed down from owner > to owner in the region so as to build a data base for comparison from witch > they could draw educated guess about their set up.Any ideas??? > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 11:55:21 -0400 To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9_Lemelin?= , From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Ren=E9_Lemelin?= Subject: Re: KR> Fw: Pull test Message-ID: <003001c127fe$3072f060$35a1fdcf@oemcomputer> ----- Original Message ----- From: "René Lemelin" To: Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 11:53 AM Subject: KR> Fw: Pull test > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Yves Lemelin" > To: > Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 11:01 AM > Subject: Pull test > > > > Hi Rene, > > Just wondering if the guys over Kr-net do any pull test and compare > numbers > > with each other to kind of establish a workable prop/h.p. range? Last week > i > > saw a guy testing is 601 with a couple of pulleys, a rope and an oil > cylinder > > with a pressure gage attached to it. He tied one pulley on the back of his > > machine, the other to a secure tiedown point and he floored it. He got a > > reading of 350 lbs. He told me that the contraption was passed down from > owner > > to owner in the region so as to build a data base for comparison from > witch > > they could draw educated guess about their set up.Any ideas??? > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 09:05:59 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Robert X. Cringely" Subject: Re: KR> Fw: Pull test Message-Id: Such a pull test measures only static thrust. Now static thrust is nice, but is not a big part of the story for airplanes like KR's that have a wide range of speeds. A good KR prop, for example, will build thrust during the takeoff roll as speed is gained and the prop begins to get a better bite. So pull tests are nice, but only definitive for very slow aircraft like ultralights. A KR prop that pulls like crazy in the static test fixture might well produce a top speed 30 mph less than another prop. Bob >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Yves Lemelin" >To: >Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 11:01 AM >Subject: Pull test > > >> Hi Rene, >> Just wondering if the guys over Kr-net do any pull test and compare >numbers >> with each other to kind of establish a workable prop/h.p. range? Last week >i >> saw a guy testing is 601 with a couple of pulleys, a rope and an oil >cylinder >> with a pressure gage attached to it. He tied one pulley on the back of his >> machine, the other to a secure tiedown point and he floored it. He got a >> reading of 350 lbs. He told me that the contraption was passed down from >owner >> to owner in the region so as to build a data base for comparison from >witch >> they could draw educated guess about their set up.Any ideas??? >> > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . >AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! -- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 11:09:46 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: clair d boyd Subject: Fw: KR toe in Message-ID: <20010818.110947.-247151.0.boyd84@juno.com> --------- Forwarded message ---------- From: clair d boyd To: krnet@mailinglists.otg Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 18:16:46 -0500 Subject: KR toe in Message-ID: <20010817.181647.-255169.2.boyd84@juno.com> Does anyone on the net know the toe in for the mains? HAving hard time to taxi straight at 15 mph and above. ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 11:46:24 -0700 (PDT) To: clair d boyd , krnet@mailinglists.org From: Guenther Bryce Subject: Re: KR> Fw: KR toe in Message-ID: <20010818184624.71642.qmail@web11103.mail.yahoo.com> Clair question ? Is your KR a tail dragger or tri gear? If its a tail dragger be aware of the geometry of the gear in the tail up and tail down attitude, it changes if you haven't studied that. The rigidity of the gear also has something to do with directional control problems. Bryce - A&P --- clair d boyd wrote: > > > --------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: clair d boyd > To: krnet@mailinglists.otg > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 18:16:46 -0500 > Subject: KR toe in > Message-ID: > <20010817.181647.-255169.2.boyd84@juno.com> > > Does anyone on the net know the toe in for the > mains? HAving hard time to > taxi straight at 15 mph and above. > > ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for > less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , > or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: > krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: > krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at > http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use > some other system! > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 13:53:16 -0500 To: "KRnet" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Fw: KR toe in Message-ID: <001101c12817$0a8769d0$0100a8c0@cmc3075662a> > Does anyone on the net know the toe in for the mains? HAving hard time to > taxi straight at 15 mph and above. The Diehl gear instructions say "slight toe in", and Bengelis says as close to straight ahead as possible... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 18:17:12 -0500 To: "Mark Langford" , "krnet" From: "JEAN VERON" Subject: Re: KR> Fw: KR toe in Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C12812.00BA0D40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I put mine straight ahead. Jean N4DD ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Langford Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 1:55 PM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Fw: KR toe in > Does anyone on the net know the toe in for the mains? HAving hard time to > taxi straight at 15 mph and above. The Diehl gear instructions say "slight toe in", and Bengelis says as close to straight ahead as possible... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C12812.00BA0D40-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 19:37:56 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Fw: KR toe in Message-ID: <003c01c12847$31e22da0$7000a8c0@athlon600> > Does anyone on the net know the toe in for the mains? HAving hard time to > taxi straight at 15 mph and above. I might be noted that if you built your rudder pedals per the plans, you might be driving yourself crazy with the brakes. Monte Miller discovered that his 10 1/2 shoes (I think it was) caused the brakes to be applied whenever he was trying to actuate only the rudder, because of the short distance between the brake activation hinge line and the pedal hinge line. His airplane had been a real handful during taxi tests until he figured that out and corrected it. He showed how you could add blocks of wood (among other things) to the pedals so that a deliberate effort was required to apply the brakes. Having read that when I made my pedals, I made mine taller, just right for my feet. Bengelis also mentioned that camber should be set up so that the tires are vertical at whatever weight you plan to fly at. Even with my extra weight (I expect to be just under 700 pounds empty), I still don't think mine will be vertical yet, but close. I might just fix that when I put on my new 3" taller lower gear brackets, that I have all ready to weld up. Speaking of which, I got my new TIG welder, and spent the day running beads on scrap aluminum, rather than working on the cowling. I love this thing... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 21:57:00 -0400 To: "JEAN VERON" , "Mark Langford" , "krnet" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Fw: KR toe in Message-ID: <001401c12852$3cf6c880$1c2d5d0c@scana.com> On the Little Beast, I just made sure that they were IN and I never had a problem. Daniel R. Heath WWW.EAA242.ORG ----- Original Message ----- From: "JEAN VERON" To: "Mark Langford" ; "krnet" Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 7:17 PM Subject: Re: KR> Fw: KR toe in > I put mine straight ahead. > Jean > N4DD > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mark Langford > Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 1:55 PM > To: KRnet > Subject: Re: KR> Fw: KR toe in > > > Does anyone on the net know the toe in for the mains? HAving hard time to > > taxi straight at 15 mph and above. > > The Diehl gear instructions say "slight toe in", and Bengelis says as close > to straight ahead as possible... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 18:45:30 -0700 (PDT) To: Group KR NET From: Tim Brown Subject: rudder Message-ID: <20010819014530.44279.qmail@web9502.mail.yahoo.com> Can anyone give me some idea of the length of their rudder horn? I am guessing something like 6". I am using the Dr. Dean hinge arrangement so I am thinking of using 1" x 1" L metal removing most of one leg except for where I need to bolt it under the hinge, All thoughts and ideas are welcome. Tim __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 22:21:17 -0500 To: Tim Brown From: Mark Jones CC: Group KR NET Subject: Re: KR> rudder Message-ID: <3B7F30AC.8DD6C8A3@execpc.com> Hello Tim, I am using the Dr. Dean hinge and horn arrangement. The rudder horn I have is made from 1" aluminum t-bar. The rudder cable attach holes are on 6" centers. Mark Langford took a good clasp photo of the horn when he was at my house during EAA Airventure (Oshkosh) and maybe he will post the photo for all to see. Mark Jones Tim Brown wrote: > Can anyone give me some idea of the length of > their rudder horn? I am guessing something like > 6". > > I am using the Dr. Dean hinge arrangement so I am > thinking of using 1" x 1" L metal removing most > of one leg except for where I need to bolt it > under the hinge, > > All thoughts and ideas are welcome. > > Tim > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger > http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other system! -- Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at mailto:flykr2s@execpc.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://sites.netscape.net/n886mj/homepage ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 22:39:06 -0700 To: kr From: POND CARTER Subject: Sand Paper? Message-ID: <3B7F50FA.86556BD1@home.com> Hi KR netter. OK where can i buy sand paper in larger numbers than 10 sheets at $4 a pack. I going to go broke just sanding. Can you buy larger sheets than 9 x 11? So this is what you guys were complaining about. Sand...fill...sand...fill ....sands some more. The cowling looks great though time consuming. Good thing it's not winter my family would not be able to find me should i fall in the snow after sanding. Signed The Powder White Guy...At least I can't smell it with the filter mask on . ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************