From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 2 Dec 2001 15:53:13 -0000 Issue 333 Date: Sunday, December 02, 2001 7:54 AM krnet Digest 2 Dec 2001 15:53:13 -0000 Issue 333 Topics (messages 7847 through 7876): vinylester horse 7847 by: Oscar Zuniga 7871 by: Willard561.aol.com Re: Lavon Loynd virus 7848 by: virgnvs.juno.com Re: control wheel 7849 by: virgnvs.juno.com fuel tanks 7850 by: dawnpatrol.onemain.com 7851 by: Shane Daly http://www.oddtodd.com 7852 by: Ross Youngblood Re: Fuel injection vw 7853 by: Phillip Matheson rudder pedal blocks 7854 by: nikki record light turtle deck 7855 by: dene.collett Apologies 7856 by: John and Janet Martindale 7857 by: Frank Ross Re: Looking for KR in Colorado 7858 by: Glenn Anderson 7859 by: Oscar Zuniga Constructing Fiberglass Fuel Tanks 7860 by: Shane Daly Corvair/KR2S engine mount details 7861 by: Mark Langford Glass Fuel Tanks 7862 by: Shane Daly Re: Corvair/KR2S cowling 7863 by: MARVIN MCCOY 7867 by: Mark Langford 7869 by: Jerry Mahurin Compression data & Weekend Update 7864 by: Ross Youngblood Placarding Panel -- Airspeeds 7865 by: Ross Youngblood 7866 by: Oscar Zuniga Seat belts 7868 by: The Pond Family William Wynne video 7870 by: Ed Janssen Lavond Loynd virus 7872 by: David R. Christensen 7874 by: RONALD.FREIBERGER Re: space junk 7873 by: terry marion ks SHORTEN PROP 7875 by: Philip J. Visconti 7876 by: Mark Langford Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 23:45:23 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: vinylester horse Message-ID: (Search the archives and you'll find a thread by the name 'vinylester horse'; vinylester was beat to death already). Regarding the promoter used with this stuff, I don't know if it contains cobalt, but it's listed in the catalog as being promoted with CONAP, which sounds very much like it would be cobalt-based. You chemical guys can figure that out! Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 22:49:19 EST To: taildrags@hotmail.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Willard561@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> vinylester horse Message-ID: <7a.1ecbb302.293afebf@aol.com> Oscar, You are right, it contains a cobalt based chemical. Bill Higdon ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 19:31:18 -0500 To: ron.martha@mindspring.com From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Lavon Loynd virus Message-ID: <20011130.194109.-216797.7.virgnvs@juno.com> I DO NOT open messages in that format, DELETE, Virg On Fri, 30 Nov 2001 13:18:12 -0500 "RONALD.FREIBERGER" writes: > I just got a virus message from Lavon Loynd... Don't open it. If you > don't > yet have Norton Antivirus, you'll soon be in trouble. > > Ron Freiberger... > mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other > system! > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 18:34:05 -0500 To: bhigdo02@sprintspectrum.com From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> control wheel Message-ID: <20011130.194109.-216797.2.virgnvs@juno.com> P-38.P39.P63, Virg On Thu, 29 Nov 2001 09:20:41 -0600 "Higdon, Bill" writes: > Would that be the P-38 or the P-61 The Big Mudder > Bill Higdon > > -----Original Message----- > From: larry flesner [mailto:flesner@midwest.net] > Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 4:06 AM > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> control wheel > > > > > >KR> stick location > >(stick vs. wheel) > >>That's like putting training wheels on a sport plane.. aka nose > gear. > >>BLASPHEMY is too Kind. > >>Ron Freiberger... > >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= > > Ron, > > One of the greatest fighters of WWII had a control wheel AND > A NOSE WHEEL !!!!!!!!!! No one thought they were "wimpy" :) :) !! > > Larry Flesner > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other > system! > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some other > system! > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 18:46:13 -0600 To: From: dawnpatrol@onemain.com Subject: fuel tanks Message-ID: <003601c17a01$948b5600$7e11f8d1@matandcat> ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C179CF.48D515C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Shane Daly, would you please post fuel tank article using the jeffco = fuel tank filler Mike T ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C179CF.48D515C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 18:40:45 -0800 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Shane Daly Subject: Re: KR> fuel tanks Message-id: <012a01c17a11$94257500$861b4f18@cg.shawcable.net> Hi All, Thanks for your interest in the fuel tank construction. I will put together an article on it and post it to the net by the end of the weekend. Shane Daly Calgary, Canada ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 4:46 PM Subject: KR> fuel tanks Shane Daly, would you please post fuel tank article using the jeffco fuel tank filler Mike T ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 19:28:33 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ross Youngblood Subject: http://www.oddtodd.com Message-Id: <20011201022209.DVOB6698.femail7.sdc1.sfba.home.com@cx239334-a> It's Friday... here is some off topic spam. This is a link to a 5 minute movie about getting laid off. It cracked us up in the office, but it is rather R rated (not X). It is a day in the life of someone who is laid off. http://www.oddtodd.com Ross Youngblood rossy65@home.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:49:19 +1100 To: "Daniel Heath" , , "Robert Stone" , , From: "Phillip Matheson" Cc: Subject: Re: KR> Fuel injection vw Message-ID: <001301c17a2b$ee5959a0$0100a8c0@barry> Does someone in Australia know where I can get an after marker fuel injection conputer for a two lit engine.(VW) I think I have all the rest of parts needed. regards Phillip Matheson NSW Aust. matheson@dodo.com.au ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 23:18:21 -0800 To: From: "nikki" Subject: rudder pedal blocks Message-ID: <003901c17a38$5cabba40$0101a8c0@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01C179F5.4D8E3BC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Tim, try to phone me @ 970-704-0966 re: rudder pedal blocks ------=_NextPart_000_0036_01C179F5.4D8E3BC0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 08:17:51 +0200 To: "Krnet" From: "dene.collett" Subject: record light turtle deck Message-ID: <000501c17a30$15ea9ac0$e995cba3@dean> Hi Netters Since I have made no progress lately, I thought I would share with you guys the method I used to build my turtle deck. I would imagine it would tip the scales as one of the lightest turtle decks out there. Firstly I made a template of the shape of each end of the turtle deck, measured the distance between the two ends and divided that distance up into equal divisions at which I measured the width. These templates and measurements I took to a friend who developed a mathematical formulae to work out the plots for the templates at the various divisions. After plotting them on pre-cut plywood squares of appropriate size (all the same size), I built a female jig frame of the turtle deck. In this I placed a sheet of 0.6mm galvanized sheet, laid up two layers of 200g bi-directional glass and let it set. After curing, I then rough sanded the inside of this and spread a thin layer of micro slurry. To this I laid up a layer of foam strips 1/2" thick and roughly 3/4" wide much the same as a boat hull is strip planked. Once this had cured, it was sanded to a smooth surface and then a single layer of glass was laid up on the inside. This process produced a super stiff, strong turtle deck that weighs next to nothing and also needs almost no filling and sanding because the steel sheet is so smooth. I have not attached it to the fuz yet, but I am sure that I will be able to stand on it in the middle once the edge is secured to the fuz. I still have the jig and could probably get a pic of it and the turtle deck if anybody is interested. Phew that was a marathon post, Cheers guys Dene Collett South Africa mailto: dene.collett@freemail.absa.co.za ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 17:59:35 +1100 To: "Corvaircraft" , "KRnet" From: "John and Janet Martindale" Subject: Apologies Message-ID: <007501c17a35$e1045f20$41236e40@m1g0x7> ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C17A91.EFE392C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Folks Please accept my apologies about the Bad Trans virus some of you have = apparently got from me without my knowledge. Hopefully I'm clean again = now after downloading the latest McAfee DAT files. Here are some = instructions on manual removal from Windows 98 for those without = protection. Open Windows in safe mode using F5 on booting. Start\Run then type %WINDIR% return. Delete INETD.EXE if present. Start\Run then type %WINDIR%\SYSTEM return. Delete KERN32.EXE = KERNEL32.EXE KDLL.DLL HKSDLL.DLL if present. Start\Run then type REGEDIT return. Click on the plus sign to open the = HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE directory then again on SOFTWARE subdirectory then = MICROSOFT then WINDOWS then CURRENT VERSION. Click on the RUNONCE = subdirectory to open it. Click on KERNEL32 on the right side of the = screen then "delete" on your keyboard. Reboot. Hope this helps. It's about all I can do. Cheers John. ------=_NextPart_000_0070_01C17A91.EFE392C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 07:28:30 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org, CorVaircraft From: Frank Ross Subject: KR> Apologies Message-ID: <20011201152830.2772.qmail@web14002.mail.yahoo.com> John Martindale, No apology necessary as far as I'm concerned. Glad to hear you're okay and back with us. Damned shame these idiots do these things. Terrible waste of precious time and talent. My sincere thanks to you for the information on clearing this up too. Frank in San Antonio, TX, USA --- John and Janet Martindale wrote: > Folks > > Please accept my apologies about the Bad Trans virus > Hope this helps. It's about all I can do. > > Cheers John. ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Buy the perfect holiday gifts at Yahoo! Shopping. http://shopping.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 10:27:31 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Glenn Anderson" Subject: Re: Looking for KR in Colorado Message-ID: <4120011261172731810@earthlink.net> Hello I have been reading the KR mailings and am considering the purchase of several I have seen for sale. The problem is I have never seen a real KR-2 up close and would like to see one before traveling halfway across the country to purchase one. Do you know of a KR-2 in the Denver, Colorado Springs, or Pueblo Colorado area that I could look at, not asking for a ride just to see it up close. Glenn Anderson Colorado Springs ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:53:45 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: Looking for KR in Colorado Message-ID: Glenn wrote: >Do you know of a KR-2 in the Denver, Colorado Springs, or Pueblo >Colorado area that I could look at Glenn; when you have a Saturday free, hop in your rig and head down I-25 about 149 miles, then turn west on US 64 another 80 miles or so to Los Alamos, NM and Jeff Scott will be happy to show you his completed, flying KR-2S. He'll also take you for a ride in it. Then drive into Santa Fe and buy Jeff a rainbow trout dinner with the trimmings ;o) You can reach Jeff at jscott.pilot@juno.com Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 11:26:59 -0800 To: KR list From: Shane Daly Subject: Constructing Fiberglass Fuel Tanks Message-id: <017901c17a9e$25a6e2c0$861b4f18@cg.shawcable.net> --Boundary_(ID_blTBwwNOsPZtGiP8+aYavA) Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Hi All, Building fibreglass fuel tanks does not have to be difficult. The = methods for building the wing tanks as described by RR are sound and = exactly the same as what I have been using. you can use any resin you = like and any type of foam. I would recommend using Urethane foam as it = is not attacked by gasoline or most solvents. I have built a tank this = way using polystyrene foam and so far in a year and half there have been = no leaks. Once you have decided what the size and shape of your tank is = going to be you can begin. This method applies to both the stub wings or the outer wing panels, = depending on were you plan to build your tanks. Following the RR = instructions for building the wing skins you should have the top foam in = place. With the wing or fuse inverted layout the dimensions for your = tank. In the appropriate locations, construct and add the tank side = walls. Using foam create a 1" lip around the lower edge of the tank for = the bottom skin to be bonded to ( I use foam strips cut into a 1" = triangle profile ). Apply a thick mix of micro and flox to all corners = and joints to create fillets, and glass the inside of the tank with two = layers of bi-directional (2-Bid) cloth. Do this while the micro/flox mix = is still wet. Once this lay-up has cured, give the inside of the tank a = quick sanding to dull the inside surface. At this point add any baffles = you plan to have in the tank. Baffles are created in the same way as the = tank sides. I use 1/2" foam cut to fit the profile of the tank just like = a rib. Cut half round holes (1" Dia) along the top and bottom edges of = the baffles for the fuel and air in the tank to pass through. locate the = holes such that as the fuel level drops, fuel is not going to be trapped = in the tank. 2 or 3 holes per side is all you need. Glass both sides of = the baffles with 2-Bid. Once the lay-up has cured trim the glass back to = the edge of the foam. At each of the holes in the baffles remove about = an 1/8" of foam from between the glassed sides and fill this space with = a thick micro/flox mix to seal the edges of the holes. Once this has = cured, sand smooth and bond the baffles into the tank. apply a 2" wide = 2-Bid fibreglass strip around the edges of the both sides of the = baffles. Do not glass over the holes. On the edge of the baffle that = will be attached to the bottom of the tank, remove 1/8" of any exposed = foam and fill with micro/flox. At this point add all the hardware that = you plan to have in the tank. Use glass and micro/flox to attach your = hardware to the inside of the tank and to seal any exposed foam. Once = you are satisfied with the inside of your tank, create a bottom skin to = fit on the lip you created earlier. Apply a 2-Bid lay-up to the inside = of this skin. If needed install your tank vent tube in the lower skin. = Mask off the outside 3/4" of the lip where the bottom skin will be = bonded. Mask off the matching area on the lower skin. Using the Jeffco = 9700 Tank sealer, paint the inside of the tank and the inside of the = lower skin. The sealer is grey and brushes on very easily. Once the = sealer has cured remove the masking. All that is left is to bond the = lower skin in place. For this I use Hysol EA-9430 resin. It is = inexpensive and is impervious to all fuels. Mix up enough resin to allow = for about 1/16" thick layer on the lip and the lower skin. Add flox to = the resin to thicken it just enough that it does not run. Apply the = resin to the lip and the lower skin and bond the skin in place. weight = down the lower skin and allow to cure. Your tank is now complete. The best example of this type of construction is Mark Langford's stub = wing tanks http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/wingtank.html. See his Stub wing construction page = http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/swings.html for his method of creating = the upper and lower skins. Thanks Mark for such an incredible resource. Both the Jeffco resin and the Hysol can be purchased from Aircraft = Spruce. Jeffco 9700 Fuel Tank Sealer P/N: 09-42226 Hysol EA-9430 P/N: 02-18600 I hope this is understandable and helps.=20 If you have any questions, please e-mail me and I will do my best to = answer them. --Boundary_(ID_blTBwwNOsPZtGiP8+aYavA)-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 13:23:19 -0600 To: "KRnet" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Corvair/KR2S engine mount details Message-ID: <02cc01c17a9d$a28ae3f0$7600a8c0@athlon600> Somebody asked for measurements for a Corvair engine mount for the KR2S . I made a little update at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/mount_fit.html#update that might answer those questions, or at least give you a clue as to where to start... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 12:26:26 -0800 To: KR list From: Shane Daly Subject: Glass Fuel Tanks Message-id: <01a601c17aa6$7388f5c0$861b4f18@cg.shawcable.net> --Boundary_(ID_IoMf3WK/2/ENKJGv4esMjQ) Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Hi All, I must apologize, I neglected to sign my post on the tank construction. I should also have added that the 3 gallon kit of Jeffco resin that AS&S sells is way more than we need for our KRs. I used this method to do the tanks on the Legend that I my company is building. It has a total of 160 Gallons worth of tanks and took slightly less than 2 gallons of sealer to complete. It would be more cost effective for a few builders to get together and split a batch. Thanks for your interest, Shane Daly Calgary, Canada. f4u5n@shaw.ca --Boundary_(ID_IoMf3WK/2/ENKJGv4esMjQ)-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 15:56:14 -0800 To: Mark Langford From: MARVIN MCCOY CC: KRnet Subject: Re: KR> Corvair/KR2S cowling Message-ID: <3C096E1D.5453F8A2@worldnet.att.net> Mark: What kind, and weight of carbon fiber did you use on the cowling? Thanks Marvin McCoy Seattle, WA mr.marvin@worldnet.att.net ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 19:11:24 -0600 To: "KRnet" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Corvair/KR2S cowling Message-ID: <14eb01c17ace$43c77000$7600a8c0@athlon600> > Mark: > What kind, and weight of carbon fiber did you use on the cowling? I got the 48" wide stuff that's about 6 oz, as I recall, from http://www.a-c-m.com/ . Their website stinks, but reading the little banner buzzing by at the bottom it looks like they're selling 48" wide stuff for $17 per linear yard. I think this is what I paid $19 a yard for a few months back. You'll need about 6 or 7 yards to do a cowling. Now that I have my engine mount back and the engine mounted again, I'm looking at mounting the carburetor and making intake and exhaust systems. I decided today to go ahead and remove my Corvair heads so I can have the intake flanges milled down, thus saving me 3/4" of bubble in my cowling, if not all of it! Then I'll fire up the TIG welder and weld on some new intake langes, or maybe just go straight into some mandrel-bent aluminum tubes (ala Pat) and save even more height. I'll also turn my pistons over while I'm there, and I might lower my compression ratio a tad to 8.5:1. I'll be gone to New York for two weeks, so it'll be a good time to drop the heads off at the machine shop and give them plenty of time to get them milled down without holding me up... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 20:37:39 -0500 To: "Mark Langford" ,"KRnet" From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> Corvair/KR2S cowling Message-ID: Netters, When I ordered carbon from ACM a few weeks ago, the minimum order is six yards. It weighs 5.8oz per square yard.... I think..... Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC On Sat, 1 Dec 2001 19:11:24 -0600 "Mark Langford" wrote: > > Mark: > > What kind, and weight of carbon fiber did you use on > the cowling? > > I got the 48" wide stuff that's about 6 oz, as I recall, > from > http://www.a-c-m.com/ . Their website stinks, but > reading the little banner > buzzing by at the bottom it looks like they're selling > 48" wide stuff for > $17 per linear yard. I think this is what I paid $19 a > yard for a few > months back. You'll need about 6 or 7 yards to do a > cowling. > > Now that I have my engine mount back and the engine > mounted again, I'm > looking at mounting the carburetor and making intake and > exhaust systems. I > decided today to go ahead and remove my Corvair heads so > I can have the > intake flanges milled down, thus saving me 3/4" of bubble > in my cowling, if > not all of it! Then I'll fire up the TIG welder and weld > on some new intake > langes, or maybe just go straight into some mandrel-bent > aluminum tubes (ala > Pat) and save even more height. I'll also turn my > pistons over while I'm > there, and I might lower my compression ratio a tad to > 8.5:1. I'll be gone > to New York for two weeks, so it'll be a good time to > drop the heads off at > the machine shop and give them plenty of time to get them > milled down > without holding me up... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , or > "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: > krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > . > AOL and Compuserve do NOT pass KRNet email, so use some > other system! > Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:09:56 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Compression data & Weekend Update Message-Id: <20011202000330.ZRWZ740.femail38.sdc1.sfba.home.com@cx239334-a> Went out today, and re-checked the timing, then checked compression on my 1835cc after warm up. Here are the numbers #1 150psi #2 150psi #3 140psi #4 140psi There is a nifty chart at http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/comrat.htm which indicates that a reading of 125-152psi is 8:0 to 1. I'm at about 1200 feet MSL so I've got somthing a bit higher than 8:0 to one, so I should be burning 100LL instead of autogas. I had targeted a much lower compression ratio than this, but don't have the cyl head cc data or deck height data around. I just remember calling around and going to my local Volvo/VW dealer to buy some expensive deck height shims when I did this. My airport acquaintance who is the materials science expert doesnt agree with the detonation theory, he said we would have heard some pinging. Although the compression data would support a detonation theory.. We got our calipers out and did some rough measuring on the prop. It appears that one blade is slightly thicker than the other at a station about 4" from the hub. The cracks in the epoxy coating on the backside of the prop occur more on one blade than the other... so the materials science expert things the problem is in the prop. I'm not sure what he knows about props, but he seems very knowledgeable about kevlar, and stresses in material. I've boxed the prop up and shipped it to Props INC to see what Jeff has to say about refurbishing and the thickness concern. I'm going through my sign-off checklist, and among other things, my ELT batteries are due for replacement already... this plus many other mechanical issues with the flaps and aileron linkage says that the plane will probably trek back to the shop within a week. I'm pretty much done with any engine work until I get my prop back, or buy a new prop. -- Regards Ross Ross Youngblood rossy65@home.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:14:08 -0700 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Ross Youngblood Subject: Placarding Panel -- Airspeeds Message-Id: <20011202000742.ACP19530.femail41.sdc1.sfba.home.com@cx239334-a> The Inspection Check list I'm using used to be at www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/checklist.htm but this link has moved. One of the items on the list is placarding the panel and instruments. I bought some of those nifty vinyl decals from Aircraft Spruce and did my engine instruments, but wanted to get some info on the airspeed indicator. I placarded it temporarily with some rough Yellow/Green/White arcs for the following: RED 195-200MPH (top of airspeed ind) Yellow 160-195MPH Green 90-160MPH White 52-90MPH I think I may have read someplace that this stuff shouldn't be placarded until flight tests are complete, but the inspection checklist mentioned it, so I figured it's easier to pull the stickers off during an inspection than to put them on. I wonder if folks could post their stall speeds/operationg range suggestions on the 'net. Also, I'd like to know if there is a good rule of thumb for manuvering speed. I realize this is typically based on gross weight, and is designed so that full control deflection will not overstress the airframe. Does anyone recal if Vaughn Askew's[sp] Flight testing book covers this... Just curious. Ross Youngblood rossy65@home.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 00:28:27 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: Placarding Panel -- Airspeeds Message-ID: Ross wrote: >The Inspection Check list I'm using used to be at >www.provide.net/~pratt/ambuilt/checklist.htm but >this link has moved. It's now at http://www.moneypit.net/~pratt/ambuilt/checklist.htm and Jim Pratt has a really useful site here. Lots of information on registration and paperwork. Oscar Zuniga Medford, Oregon mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 20:19:49 -0800 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: The Pond Family Subject: Seat belts Message-ID: <3C09ABE5.67948DA3@rogers.com> HI Netters Is it ever exceptable to use the car seat belt arrangment like the new Cessna use or is this just asking for trouble? Darren ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 21:42:04 -0600 To: From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) Subject: William Wynne video Message-ID: <001401c17ae3$4f1314e0$0200a8c0@dad> Just finished viewing the William Wynne video. Pat Panzera did a good job producing the video. Thanks , Pat. Perhaps the only thing that could have been improved was the sound. Maybe it was just my equipment, but I had my TV cranked up to max and still had a bit of trouble hearing what Pat had to say. William did come through loud and clear, however. The general aviation safety information gained from the video is well worth the opportunity of viewing. I know my approach to safety will definitely change having seen the video. Thanks to Mark Jones for making this particular copy available for viewing. This copy of the tape will be on its way to Curtis Chapin in Monday's mail. Ed Janssen ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 21:43:06 -0700 To: "krnet mailing lists" From: "David R. Christensen" Subject: Lavond Loynd virus Message-ID: <010001c17aeb$d66c2780$90e16441@davec> ------=_NextPart_000_00FD_01C17AB1.29870880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My computer automatically opened the message from Lavond Loynd when = I went to my krnet folder and initiated my media player for one. I = closed out the windows as fast as I could and got a message "your = computer has done an illegal operation". I subsequently deleted it and = went to delete it from my "deleted" folder and started the thing over = again. I then deleted all of the messages in my deleted folder and = finally got rid of it. The only unusual effect I have noticed so far is = my krnet folder was moved under another folder instead of under "inbox". = Is there any way to delete a suspect message without having it = highlighted and opened? =20 ------=_NextPart_000_00FD_01C17AB1.29870880-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 00:51:54 -0500 To: "David R. Christensen" , "krnet mailing lists" From: "RONALD.FREIBERGER" Subject: RE: KR> Lavond Loynd virus Message-ID: Yes, get Norton Works pro for $20 on Ebay and live happy. Ron Freiberger... mailto:ron.martha@mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: David R. Christensen [mailto:davec@favorites.com] Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 11:43 PM To: krnet mailing lists Subject: KR> Lavond Loynd virus My computer automatically opened the message from Lavond Loynd when I went to my krnet folder and initiated my media player for one. I closed out the windows as fast as I could and got a message "your computer has done an illegal operation". I subsequently deleted it and went to delete it from my "deleted" folder and started the thing over again. I then deleted all of the messages in my deleted folder and finally got rid of it. The only unusual effect I have noticed so far is my krnet folder was moved under another folder instead of under "inbox". Is there any way to delete a suspect message without having it highlighted and opened? ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 23:09:36 -0800 To: From: "terry marion ks" Subject: Re: KR> space junk Message-ID: <000501c17b00$4f6acba0$3bedf0c7@r6t1n9> did any one see the meteor shower it lit up the sky over kansas and lasted about one min. at around 10:30 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 10:47:46 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Philip J. Visconti" Subject: SHORTEN PROP Message-ID: <20011202.104747.-177873.1.viscan@juno.com> ----__JNP_000_7c8a.158f.71fd Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I've tried writing this question 3 times now. ( I'm still not sure someone won't suggest running prop near the ground.) How do you shorten a wooden prop ? Or where can I get a wooden prop shortened ? Please keep in mind that I would like to be able to use it safely. The prop is 56x45 and Props Inc. suggests a 52x49 for a Revmaster 2100D on a KR-2. Someone would like to buy the prop if it can be cut down about 2 inches. I'm not sure of the type of wood. It was made by Cowley, Inc of Mojave Airport; Mojave, CA. I can't seem to find any information about that company. It was part of a package for a Q2 with the Revmaster engine that the original builder did not complete. Phil ----__JNP_000_7c8a.158f.71fd-- ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 09:52:00 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> SHORTEN PROP Message-ID: <006601c17b49$47f7dd60$0100a8c0@cmc3075662a> Philip J. Visconti > I've tried writing this question 3 times now. ( I'm still not sure > someone won't suggest running prop near the ground.) How do you shorten a > wooden prop ? Or where can I get a wooden prop shortened ? Personally, I would use a bandsaw and dress up the sharp edges with a palm sander. The prop manufacturer can certainly shorten it for you, and might do it for free. Some folks have no qualms about shortening it themselves, but if you ask to ask the question... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************