From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 17 Feb 2002 18:18:06 -0000 Issue 374 Date: Sunday, February 17, 2002 10:18 AM krnet Digest 17 Feb 2002 18:18:06 -0000 Issue 374 Topics (messages 8828 through 8844): new pictures 8828 by: larry flesner KR2S Project for sale 8829 by: Austin Clark Re: Wing Construction 8830 by: Linda Warner fiberglassing technique 8831 by: James E. Lanier 8834 by: Philip J. Visconti 8836 by: Woody Sulloway 8838 by: Jerry Mahurin 8843 by: HAshraf.aol.com 8844 by: Jerry Mahurin Nose Gear Alignment 8832 by: Jim Morehead Re: Round Fuselage 8833 by: James E. Lanier Attaching Motor Mounts to Firewall 8835 by: Philip J. Visconti 8837 by: Lynn Hyder calculating Vertical volume? 8839 by: Darren Pond Acronym Finder 8840 by: Frank Ross controls 8841 by: vincent chrisovergis 8842 by: Mark Langford Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 16:02:26 -0600 To: "KRnet" From: larry flesner Subject: new pictures Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020215160226.008c0d00@mail.midwest.net> Netters, Thanks to mark Jones there are now two photos of my project on his web page. One of the airplane, one of the interior. Take a quick look and see what you think. Thanks Mark............ Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2002 22:22:13 -0600 To: From: "Austin Clark" Subject: KR2S Project for sale Message-ID: <005701c1b6a1$82c19880$0200a8c0@mshome.net> KR2S Project, includes Revmaster 2100D with prop, Revflow carburator, center stick control, Cleveland wheels and brakes. Tri-gear, but can easily be converted to tail dragger at this stage. Approximately 75% complete. See extensive construction photos at www.datasync.com/~itac/ First $5500 takes it. e-mail itac@datasync.com Austin Clark ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 11:00:46 -0500 (EST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: jaslkw@webtv.net (Linda Warner) Subject: Fwd: Re: KR> Wing Construction Message-ID: <142-3C6E822E-1867@storefull-2171.public.lawson.webtv.net> --WebTV-Mail-11207-882 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit I noticed that in my instructions from Diehl on how to install his wing skins, It says to use ONLY vinylester resin. It is because epoxies aren't always compatible with the vinylester he uses to make the skins with. I also found, in the paper newsletter, issue 150>>>>a comment about not trying to use epoxy to attach anything to cured polyester. The article says the joint WILL fail within a year. There might be some similar problems with using epoxy to attach the vinylester wing skins. I know I'll only use vinylester for that job. John Sickafoose Naples Fl Hugs etc. Linda Kay & John --WebTV-Mail-11207-882 Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Message/RFC822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Received: from smtpin-101-6.bryant.webtv.net (209.240.198.40) by storefull-2177.public.lawson.webtv.net with WTV-SMTP; Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:33:46 -0800 (PST) Received: by smtpin-101-6.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix+sws) id 730D3185; Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:33:46 -0800 (PST) Delivered-To: jaslkw@webtv.net Received: from mailinglists.org (server1.mailinglists.org [63.160.175.18]) by smtpin-101-6.bryant.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix+sws) with SMTP id E24B7FD for ; Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:33:42 -0800 (PST) Received: (qmail 24798 invoked by alias); 14 Feb 2002 01:33:16 -0000 Mailing-List: contact krnet-help@mailinglists.org; run by ezmlm Precedence: bulk X-No-Archive: yes List-Post: List-Help: List-Unsubscribe: List-Subscribe: Delivered-To: mailing list krnet@mailinglists.org Received: (qmail 24765 invoked from network); 14 Feb 2002 01:33:06 -0000 MIME-Version: 1.0 Message-Id: <3C6B3E9C.000005.95111@mahu4362> Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 20:35:40 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) Content-Type: Multipart/related; type="multipart/alternative"; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_G3AI6RO0000000000000" X-Mailer: IncrediMail 2001 (1600560) From: "Jerry Mahurin" References: <18a.34c40fc.299c6448@aol.com> <3C6B3C74.000001.95111@mahu4362> X-FID: C3370EBD-B4C0-11D4-914A-005004BFAA41 X-FVER: X-FIT: X-FCOL: X-FCAT: X-FDIS: X-BG: X-BGT: no-repeat X-BGC: #d1c9b8 X-BGPX: center X-BGPY: center X-ASN: EA3257C0-3EFB-11D4-BA3D-0050DAC68030 X-ASNF: 0 X-ASH: EA3257C0-3EFB-11D4-BA3D-0050DAC68030 X-ASHF: 1 X-AN: C958D3B0-2BF0-11D4-BA28-0050DAC68030 X-ANF: 0 X-AP: C958D3B0-2BF0-11D4-BA28-0050DAC68030 X-APF: 1 X-AD: BFF138F0-3EFC-11D4-BA3D-0050DAC68030 X-ADF: 0 X-AUTO: X-ASN,X-ASH,X-AN,X-AP,X-AD X-CNT: ; X-Priority: 3 To: , Subject: Re: KR> Wing Construction --------------Boundary-00=_G3AI6RO0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_H3AI12S0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_H3AI12S0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0D Bob,=0D =0D I used vinylester as per Dan Diehl's instructions. I gathered together s= ome buddies, five if I remember right, and about all I did was mix and distribute small quantities of thin, runny flox made with vinylester resi= n.=20 You know you can cntrol the set/cure time by the amount of MEK that you u= se. I have a temperature vs MEK receipe around here somewhere. Ah, here it = is=0D =0D VINYLESTER RESIN=0D For laminating fiberglass, graphite, & Kevlar=0D Made by Atlac #580A=0D Mix 8 oz. resin to 5 cc MEKP hardner at 70 F.=0D At 80 F or above, mix 8 oz. resin to 3 to 4 cc MEKP.=0D At temperatures from 55 F to about 65 F, mix 8 oz. resin to 6 or 7 cc MEK= P.=0D Resin to hardner ration can vary somewhat to change cure time of resin.=0D Clean with Acetone or lacquer thinner.=0D This resin is not likely to cause skin irritations, however protection is advised.=0D ??=0D =0D I've used T88 for a long time and it is great for wood to wood; but I don= 't know aboutvinylester wing skins to wood....=0D =0D Currently we are using Aeropoxy and halogen shop lights for heat when nee= ded We can get a layup cured in a very short time with the correct heat. J= ust don't push it......=0D =0D Keep on keeping on,=0D =0D Jerry Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com=0D =0D =0D =0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: RFG842@aol.com=0D Date: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 05:05:23 PM=0D To: jerrymahurin@charter.net=0D Subject: Re: KR> Wing Construction=0D =0D Jerry:=0D =0D I'm wondering; what are you going to use to assemble your Diehl wing skin= s?=0D =0D I'm about ready to assemble mine and I'm balking at using vinylester. It = has =0D a very short life, only a few months, sets up in about 40 minutes and rea= lly =0D doesn't work well under 70 degrees. Big problems for someone like me work= ing =0D in the cold by myself.=0D =0D Been thinking of using T88. Will cure down to 35 degrees and has over a 3= =0D hour working window. Never had any failures with it. I've used Aeropoxy o= n =0D the rest of the 2S but that needs a little more heat although I've worked= at =0D 40-45. Just takes 2-3 days to cure. =0D =0D Would appreciate your thoughts.=0D =0D Bob=0D =2E --------------Boundary-00=_H3AI12S0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A =20
 
 
Bob,
 
I used vinylester as per Dan Diehl's instructions.  I gat= hered=20 together some buddies, five if I remember right, and about all I di= d was=20 mix and distribute small quantities of thin, runny flox made with=20 vinylester resin.  You know you can cntrol the set/cure time b= y the=20 amount of MEK that you use.  I have a temperature vs MEK recei= pe=20 around here somewhere.  Ah, here it is
 
 VINYLESTER RESIN
For laminating fiberglass, graphite, & Kevlar
 &nb= sp;Made=20 by Atlac #580A
Mix 8 oz. resin to 5 cc MEKP hardner at 70 F.
At 80 F or ab= ove,=20 mix 8 oz. resin to 3 to 4 cc MEKP.
At temperatures from 55 F to = about=20 65 F, mix 8 oz. resin to 6 or 7 cc MEKP.
Resin to hardner ration= can=20 vary somewhat to change cure time of resin.
Clean with Acetone o= r=20 lacquer thinner.
This resin is not likely to cause skin irritati= ons,=20 however protection is advised.
??
I've used T88 for a long time and it is great for wood to wood= ; but I=20 don't know aboutvinylester wing skins to wood....
 
Currently we are using Aeropoxy and halogen shop lights for he= at when=20 needed.  We can get a layup cured in a very short time with th= e=20 correct heat.  Just don't push it......
 
Keep on keeping on,
 
Jerry Mahurin
Lugoff, SC
See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com
 
 
 
 
-------Original Message-------<= /I>
 
From: RFG842@aol.com
Date: Wednes= day,=20 February 13, 2002 05:05:23 PM
To: jerrymahurin@charter.net
Subject: Re:= KR>=20 Wing Construction
 
Jerry:

I'm wondering; what are you going to= use to=20 assemble your Diehl wing skins?

I'm about ready to assemble = mine=20 and I'm balking at using vinylester. It has
a very short life, = only a=20 few months, sets up in about 40 minutes and really
doesn't work= well=20 under 70 degrees. Big problems for someone like me working
in t= he cold=20 by myself.

Been thinking of using T88. Will cure down to 35 = degrees=20 and has over a 3
hour working window. Never had any failures wi= th it.=20 I've used Aeropoxy on
the rest of the 2S but that needs a littl= e more=20 heat although I've worked at
40-45. Just takes 2-3 days to cure= =2E=20

Would appreciate your thoughts.

Bob
.
=20
____________________________________________________
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Lanier" Subject: fiberglassing technique Message-ID: <001001c1b70c$15ab1a30$6601a8c0@jimllaptop> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1B6E2.2C9C9D10 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am giving myself a crash course in glassing. I am doing some small = scale tests to see what works best for me. I have been painting heated = epoxy mix onto glass cloth that is on plastic sheet. I then lay this = over the foam surface and squeegee from outside the plastic. Then I = remove it. Does anyone have any suggestions to improve on this method? = Also, I would love to find a url that covers basic glassing techniques. Thanks, Jim Lanier http://webpages.charter.net/jelanier/ ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C1B6E2.2C9C9D10-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 14:27:25 -0500 To: jelanier@charter.net From: "Philip J. Visconti" Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Message-ID: <20020216.142726.-156375.0.viscan@juno.com> Jim, Do you (or a friend) have older copies of Sport Aviation ? Ron Alexander did a series of articles about using composites. First series was Oct 1997. Then a refresher in Aug. 1999. Tony Bingelis had done some earlier. Phil ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 15:08:44 -0500 To: From: "Woody Sulloway" Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Message-ID: <009f01c1b725$bdebba60$05b1c0d8@thinkpadi> Jim When we did boat lay-up in FG we used varying sizes of aluminum rollers that had little circular ridges on them to wet out the glass and get good saturation. Now this was in polyester, although I have used the same thing in West Epoxy for small area repairs on parts. Not having used the squeegee, it may work just as well. One trick I learned from a boat builder was that there is a given ratio of Qty of resin to Qty of clothe. In our case measured in pounds. After we started doing the ratio bit our wasted resin went to zero. We were laying up deck panels and although at time I wondered if I was going to run out of resin I found if I rolled out the resin well from the gitgo, it all worked out! If I am preaching to the choir sorry! Regards Woody --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Cape Lookout Mail Server] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 20:47:51 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: , From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Message-Id: <3C6F35F7.000004.80363@mahu4362> --------------Boundary-00=_RNUNBHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_RNUN6RO0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_RNUN6RO0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jim,=0D =0D Just be sure and put a coat of slurry on the foam before glassing....!!!!= =0D =0D Jerry Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D http://www.jerrymahurin.com=0D =0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: James E. Lanier=0D Date: Saturday, February 16, 2002 09:11:44 AM=0D To: krnet@mailinglists.org=0D Subject: KR> fiberglassing technique=0D =0D I am giving myself a crash course in glassing. I am doing some small scal= e tests to see what works best for me. I have been painting heated epoxy mi= x onto glass cloth that is on plastic sheet. I then lay this over the foam surface and squeegee from outside the plastic. Then I remove it. Does any= one have any suggestions to improve on this method? Also, I would love to fin= d a url that covers basic glassing techniques.=0D =0D Thanks,=0D =0D Jim Lanier=0D http://webpages.charter.net/jelanier/ --------------Boundary-00=_RNUN6RO0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A
Jim,
 
Just be sure and put a coat of slurry on the foam before=20 glassing....!!!!
 
Jerry Mahurin
Lugoff, SC
http://www.jerrymahurin.com
 
 
-------Original Message-------<= /I>
 
From: James E. Lanier
Date: Saturd= ay,=20 February 16, 2002 09:11:44 AM
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
Subject: KR&= gt;=20 fiberglassing technique
 
I am giving myself a crash course in glassing. I a= m doing=20 some small scale tests to see what works best for me. I have been p= ainting=20 heated epoxy mix onto glass cloth that is on plastic sheet. I then = lay=20 this over the foam surface and squeegee from outside the plastic. T= hen I=20 remove it. Does anyone have any suggestions to improve on this meth= od?=20 Also, I would love to find a url that covers basic glassing=20 techniques.

Thanks,

Jim Lanier
http://webpages.char= ter.net/jelanier/


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  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_RNUN6RO0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_RNUNBHK0000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 11:43:25 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: HAshraf@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Message-ID: --part1_a3.23d263ec.29a137ad_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Burt Ruran has a booklet that is available at Wicks and AS&S for about 20 dollars that is very useful. My experience that it is better to heat the workplace than epoxy. I do heat epoxy each seerate parts once in a while when it is very cold, but never mixed epoxy. Over heating mixed epoxy can start an accelerated curing reaction. The method you described is quite popular now and I have used it quite a lot. I always weigh the cloth and use same amount of epoxy. That gives exactly 50/50 cloth to weight ratio. In this way I do not have to worry about a dry laminate. Haris Ashraf http:\\members.aol.com\hashraf\KR2S.html --part1_a3.23d263ec.29a137ad_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 13:21:10 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: "krnet@mailinglists.org" , From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique Message-Id: <3C701EC6.000001.61835@mahu4362> --------------Boundary-00=_AN4PQL80000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_BN4PLVC0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_BN4PLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Jim,=0D =0D Maybe you should read up on sandwich compsite structure and fiberglassing before you go for real. And it would be better if you could 'assist' an experienced fiberglasser and learn that way. You are doing one smart thi= ng by making test layups, etc before starting your project. Anyway in answe= r to your question.....=0D =0D If you put a wetted out layup directly on the foam, the foam will suck a large amount of the resin right out of the glass/resin resulting in a 'dr= y' layup with resin voids. To avoid this and to provide a much stronger bon= d to the foam; you coat the foam with 'slurry'. Slurry is a mixture of res= in=20 with the catalyst added, and microbaloons creating a 'runny' mixture that can be spread out evenly over the foam. But it should be thick enough th= at it will fill the pores (holes) in the foam. Spread it smoothly so there will not be any lumps under the glass. Then you are ready to add your glass/resin layup. We usually cut the glass; mix the resin and catalyst; add microbaloons to some of the resin; apply the slurry to the foam; wet = out the glass; put the glass/resin on the foam/slurry. We do it in that orde= r.=20 If there are more people, the slurry can be applied to the foam while someone else is wetting out the glass.=0D =0D I hope this information is helpful. If you have more questions please do not hesitate to ask because these are very important issues..... To get = the strength required from your fiberglass/foam structure, it must be done correctly....!! =0D =0D Jerry Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com=0D =0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: James E. Lanier=0D Date: Saturday, February 16, 2002 06:42:17 PM=0D To: Jerry Mahurin=0D Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique=0D =0D I don't understand...do you mean a coat of resin on the foam as well as t= he wetted glass that I described?=0D =0D Thanks,=0D =0D Jim=0D ----- Original Message ----- =0D From: Jerry Mahurin =0D To: jelanier@charter.net ; krnet@mailinglists.org =0D Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 11:47 PM=0D Subject: Re: KR> fiberglassing technique=0D =0D =0D Jim,=0D =0D Just be sure and put a coat of slurry on the foam before glassing....!!!!= =0D =0D Jerry Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D http://www.jerrymahurin.com=0D =0D =0D Jerry L. Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com=0D Jerry L. Mahurin=0D Lugoff, SC=0D See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com=0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: James E. Lanier=0D Date: Saturday, February 16, 2002 09:11:44 AM=0D To: krnet@mailinglists.org=0D Subject: KR> fiberglassing technique=0D =0D I am giving myself a crash course in glassing. I am doing some small scal= e tests to see what works best for me. I have been painting heated epoxy mi= x onto glass cloth that is on plastic sheet. I then lay this over the foam surface and squeegee from outside the plastic. Then I remove it. Does any= one have any suggestions to improve on this method? Also, I would love to fin= d a url that covers basic glassing techniques.=0D =0D Thanks,=0D =0D Jim Lanier=0D http://webpages.charter.net/jelanier/ --------------Boundary-00=_BN4PLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =0D =0A
Jim,
 
Maybe you should read up on sandwich compsite structure and=20 fiberglassing before you go for real.  And it would be better = if you=20 could 'assist' an experienced fiberglasser and learn that way. = ; You=20 are doing one smart thing by making test layups, etc before st= arting=20 your project.  Anyway in answer to your question.....
 
If you put a wetted out layup directly on the foam, the foam w= ill=20 suck a large amount of the resin right out of the glass/resin resul= ting in=20 a 'dry' layup with resin voids.  To avoid this and to provide = a much=20 stronger bond to the foam; you coat the foam with 'slurry'.  S= lurry=20 is a mixture of resin ,with the catalyst added, and microbaloons cr= eating=20 a 'runny' mixture that can be spread out evenly over the foam.=  =20 But it should be thick enough that it will fill the pores (holes) i= n the=20 foam.  Spread it smoothly so there will not be any lumps under= the=20 glass.  Then you are ready to add your glass/resin layup. = ; We=20 usually cut the glass; mix the resin and catalyst; add microbaloons= to=20 some of the resin; apply the slurry to the foam; wet out the= glass;=20 put the glass/resin on the foam/slurry.  We do it in that=20 order.  If there are more people, the slurry can be applied to= the=20 foam while someone else is wetting out the glass.
 
I hope this information is helpful.  If you have mor= e=20 questions please do not hesitate to ask because these are very impo= rtant=20 issues.....  To get the strength required from your=20 fiberglass/foam structure, it must be done correctly....!! 
 
Jerry Mahurin
Lugoff, SC
See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com
 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: James E. Lanier
Date: Saturd= ay,=20 February 16, 2002 06:42:17 PM
To: Jerry Mahurin
Subject: Re:= KR>=20 fiberglassing technique
 
I don't understand...do you mean a= coat of=20 resin on the foam as well as the wetted glass that I=20 described?
 
Thanks,
 
Jim
----- Original Message ----- Jerry Mahurin
To: jelanier@charter.net ; <= A=20 title=3Dkrnet@mailinglists.org=20 href=3D"mailto:krnet@mailinglists.org">krnet@mailinglists.org=
Sent: Saturday, February 1= 6, 2002=20 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: KR> fiberg= lassing=20 technique

=20
Jim,
 
Just be sure and put a coat of slurry on the foam befo= re=20 glassing....!!!!
 
Jerry Mahurin
Lugoff, SC
http://www.jerrymahuri= n.com
 
 
Jerry L. Mahurin
Lugoff, SC
See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com
Jerry L. Mahurin
Lugoff, SC
See our KR2 at http://www.jerrymahurin.com
-------Original=20 Message-------
 
From: James E. Lanier
Date: Saturday,=20 February 16, 2002 09:11:44 AM
To: = krnet@mailinglists.o= rg
Subject:= KR>=20 fiberglassing technique
 
I am giving myself a crash course in glass= ing. I=20 am doing some small scale tests to see what works best for = me. I=20 have been painting heated epoxy mix onto glass cloth that i= s on=20 plastic sheet. I then lay this over the foam surface and sq= ueegee=20 from outside the plastic. Then I remove it. Does anyone hav= e any=20 suggestions to improve on this method? Also, I would love t= o find=20 a url that covers basic glassing=20 techniques.

Thanks,

Jim Lanier
http://webpa= ges.charter.net/jelanier/


=20
 
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_BN4PLVC0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_AN4PQL80000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 09:25:38 -0800 To: KR- Net From: Jim Morehead Subject: Nose Gear Alignment Message-ID: Netters, I have a question on the Dan Diehl noise gear. Should the lower end of the gear that goes into the swivel of the nose wheel be plumb for and aft? Mine angles aft 10 deg. Is this a problem? Thanks for you help. Jim Morehead Cameron Park, CA ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 12:31:58 -0500 To: "Darren Pond" , "krnet" From: "James E. Lanier" Subject: Re: KR> Round Fuselage Message-ID: <001d01c1b70f$d6bb8310$6601a8c0@jimllaptop> I cover this briefly in my book on rocket motor design. Here is an excerpt. >p = .07647 x exp( -h / 24000 ) > >where > p = atmospheric density in lbs/ft3 > h = height above the surface of the earth in ft. > > The shape and cross-sectional area "Af" of the vehicle are also to be considered in calculating the drag force. The shape determines the coefficient of drag >"Cd". The drag force is determined by > >25) > Fd = Cd(1/2)pv2Af The idea here is that the cross-sectional area is major factor. The Cd is the factor that would change in your example. It is my belief that the cross-section outline in the plane you describe would have a negligible effect on Cd. (Although I must admit, I have never constructed a square rocket!) One more thing. Cd changes with velocity! It peaks just above Mach one. Jim Lanier http://webpages.charter.net/jelanier/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darren Pond" To: "krnet" Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 12:31 AM Subject: KR> Round Fuselage Hi all From all you aerodynamic rocket scientists and want to be's Question : Would the KR2S fly any faster if the side walls were not flat or if the turtle deck radi some how blended into the belly smoothly? I guess this is an old question Lancair vs Glasair but I have to ask. Faster would be nice but fuel economy is also important. My wing spars have been promised to arrive this week! yes at last. Darren Pond Cambridge Ont Canada ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 14:51:02 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Philip J. Visconti" Subject: Attaching Motor Mounts to Firewall Message-ID: <20020216.145103.-156375.3.viscan@juno.com> Reference Tony B's book, "Firewall Forward" page 78. Anyone know why Tony recommends cutting away insulation (Asbestos/Fiberfrax) behind mount attach points ? Why not cut S/S also ? Phil ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 16:24:22 -0800 To: viscan@juno.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Lynn Hyder" Subject: Re: KR> Attaching Motor Mounts to Firewall Message-ID: Phil..... Asbestos/Fiberfrax doesn't compress enough and its hard to get a good tight fit. It could loosen up later. I cut away the Fiberfrax and added a washer the size of my motor mount fitting under the firewall metal to replace the cut away Fiberfrax. That way you can get a good tight connection. Unfortunatly with the KR we still have to deal with the wood firewall structure but, all in all its held up very well. Lynn Hyder N37LH > Reference Tony B's book, "Firewall Forward" page 78. >Anyone know why Tony recommends cutting away insulation >(Asbestos/Fiberfrax) behind mount attach points ? Why not cut S/S also ? > >Phil _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 23:22:39 -0800 To: "krnet" , "Richard McCall" From: "Darren Pond" Subject: calculating Vertical volume? Message-ID: <00b601c1b783$e1bf6460$5f047218@cambr.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> ------=_NextPart_000_00B3_01C1B740.D3483800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable HI all Can any one suggest how to calculate tail volume. I am using the formula = Pvt=3D(Dv/MAC)*(Svt/Sw)=3D> 0.30.=20 I show an answer of .25with out including fuselage and .32with the = fuselage. When you measure the square area of the vertical tail do you include the = fuselage that is under the tail also? When calculating wing area the = belly is considered so I am assuming I should. What I am considering how much taller to make = my stab for my larger 150hp potential. My bird is not to plans by choice.=20 Darren Pond =20 Finial few numbers to crunch before I cut the wood. My Lincon 175 tig will be here on Monday. If anyone is in need of tig = welding or would like to stop by and play. Drop me a line. Cambridge Ontario Canada ------=_NextPart_000_00B3_01C1B740.D3483800-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 06:22:25 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Frank Ross Subject: Acronym Finder Message-ID: <20020217142225.13085.qmail@web14007.mail.yahoo.com> While it's not exactly Aviation related, this may be useful to you all if you've ever wondered what a certain acronym meant, here's a great site: http://www.acronymfinder.com/ The search for your acronym will list them from most common to least common. ===== Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX, __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games http://sports.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 10:49:37 -0800 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: vincent chrisovergis Subject: controls Message-ID: <3C6FFB41.3D003F6D@ns.sympatico.ca> Has anyone got info on the side stick controls for a KR2S I'm building a kr which will be a single seat.I've seen a kr that had a side stick control and retracts. does anyone know who's plane it is.thanks vince ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 09:26:36 -0600 To: "KRnet" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> controls Message-ID: <00cb01c1b7c7$7d5ebc20$0100a8c0@cmc3075662a> > Has anyone got info on the side stick controls for a KR2S I'm building a > kr which will be a single seat.I've seen a kr that had a side stick > control and retracts. does anyone know who's plane it is.thanks vince That was probably Don Betchan's plane, which has since been sold to somebody else. I think Randy Stein or somebody might even have some hand sketches of how it works. If all else fails, call Don in Perry Oklahoma. He'll be happy to tell you all about it, I'll bet. I'll try to get some pictures of the side-stick thing next time I see it. By the way, I did a little valve train geometry thing for the Corvair engine last night, posted to http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/valve_geometry.html , if anybody's interested. This same sort of thing applies to the VW, but it's easier to get it right on the VW since most of them have solid lifters. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************