From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 17 May 2002 14:55:38 -0000 Issue 429 Date: Friday, May 17, 2002 7:56 AM krnet Digest 17 May 2002 14:55:38 -0000 Issue 429 Topics (messages 10142 through 10169): Re: A stupid question 10142 by: Ron Eason 10143 by: Jerry Mahurin Sanding wood before gluing? 10144 by: Darren Pond sanding primer 10145 by: jim . synergy design 10161 by: larry flesner Canopy 10146 by: clappw.bellsouth.net 10148 by: Mark Jones KR MAnual 10147 by: clappw.bellsouth.net 10152 by: Frank Ross Contact information 10149 by: David French Re: KR MAnual-glass cockpit 10150 by: Dana Overall Re: New Brazing Products Brochure 10151 by: Ron Eason Re: stub wings 10153 by: dene.collett Removable Tail Cone 10154 by: Peg and Mike Meyer 10155 by: Rick Wilson 10156 by: Daniel Heath 10159 by: Donald Reid canopy seal 10157 by: Rick Wilson 10158 by: Mark Langford 10160 by: Rick Wilson 10162 by: larry flesner 10165 by: Daniel Heath 10167 by: larry flesner waf position 10163 by: jim . synergy design Re: Tail drager 10164 by: Phillip Matheson Da pics:-) 10166 by: Dana Overall 10168 by: larry flesner diesel Engine 10169 by: brunipietro.virgilio.it Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 08:30:22 -0700 To: , "mike" From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Re: KR> A stupid question Message-Id: <200205150830.AA206307362@jrl-engineering.com> If it is urathane, use pourable foam to fill in the depression. If not try some light weight dry wall filler? It's light, ahears well and sands easily. KRRon ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "mike" Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 09:44:57 -0400 > Ok, here it is. I was almost finished with my rudder had it perfectly sanded, almost, i mixed a lil more micro to fill a tiny lil spot and i put the light over it like i always do. I started doing another project and the next time i checked on it > the light had caused it to get to hot and i had a big bump , sanded this off after it cured then had to use more micro to fix the mess i'd made. Ok the question is , should i just scrap the thing tear out ALL the foam work and start over? micro is heavier than foam, the area is about 1/4 inch deep and 8 or 9 inches long. I just wanna keep the weight down if i can. > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 11:38:37 -0400 To: "mike" , From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> A stupid question Message-ID: Mike, What I would do, right or wrong, would be.... Cut out a nice little retangular strip a little larger than your boo boo, scoop out all the foam down to the glass on the other side. Cut you a new piece of foam the size of your new hole, glue it in the hole with just a little five minute expoy (or even hot glue) on the bottom. Then sand it down level. Then slurry and glass it over with peel ply on top. by using the peel ply, the patch will be invisible..... That was no stupid question...!!! Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org On Wed, 15 May 2002 09:44:57 -0400 "mike" wrote: > Ok, here it is. I was almost finished with my rudder >had it perfectly sanded, almost, i mixed a lil more micro >to fill a tiny lil spot and i put the light over it like >i always do. I started doing another project and the next >time i checked on it > the light had caused it to get to hot and i had a big >bump , sanded this off after it cured then had to use >more micro to fix the mess i'd made. Ok the question is , >should i just scrap the thing tear out ALL the foam work >and start over? micro is heavier than foam, the area is >about 1/4 inch deep and 8 or 9 inches long. I just wanna >keep the weight down if i can. Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 18:15:36 -0700 To: "krnet" From: "Darren Pond" Subject: Sanding wood before gluing? Message-ID: <001401c1fc77$2f6f0fc0$79469d18@cambr.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1FC3C.82CD1440 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi All Is it ok to finish belt sand to length the Box spar ladder pieces or = must they be cut clean on saw before gluing? Also my Taylor mono plane was given a gross weight of 775# but with the = new engine I need a Gross weight of 825# The spars are very similar to = the KR1 with straight cord of 48" the wing area is 84sq ft of wing.=20 As I need to follow Canadian rules can any one advise? Darren P Still working on my dream plane ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C1FC3C.82CD1440-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 19:59:16 -0700 To: From: "jim @ synergy design" Subject: sanding primer Message-ID: <002301c1fc85$adcfa100$0101a8c0@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1FC4A.FE669640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Just a little tool hint. You can get a sanding pad made for sanding = drywall joints that has holes in the pad, and hooks to your shop vac. = Uses abrasive coated screen for paper. It dosent clog like solid paper. = You can also use regular sandpaper if you punch holes in it.I think = around 40.00 or less. Sucks as you sand! This has about a 4" x10" pad. = Find at your local home center. Jim=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C1FC4A.FE669640-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 21:19:54 -0500 To: From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> sanding primer Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020516211954.00896580@mail.midwest.net> Sucks as you sand! This has about a 4" x10" pad. Find at your local home center. Jim >++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++== Jim, I've heard that sanding "sucks" but a sucking sander, WOW.....!!!!! :-) Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 10:24:01 -0400 To: From: Subject: Canopy Message-ID: <000d01c1fce5$537d1060$df3dd6d1@h1x1g0> ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C1FCC3.CBDD8840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Still looking for KR2S or Dragonfly canopy. Where can I order one from = new if I want to? Still have a nose gear assy for sale and rear = tri-gear brackets (handmade and very beefy) Also may be looking for = KR2S manual - Is there and online copy? Bill ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C1FCC3.CBDD8840-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 22:13:04 -0500 To: "KR-Net" From: "Mark Jones" Subject: Fw: KR> Canopy Message-ID: <002201c1fc87$9856e2a0$c5991f41@wi.rr.com> Here is the link to Slipstream Industries who now has the Dragonfly design and Canopies http://www.slipstreamind.com/ Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 9:24 AM > Subject: KR> Canopy > > > Still looking for KR2S or Dragonfly canopy. Where can I order one from new > if I want to? Still have a nose gear assy for sale and rear tri-gear > brackets (handmade and very beefy) Also may be looking for KR2S manual - Is > there and online copy? Bill > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 10:48:37 -0400 To: From: Subject: KR MAnual Message-ID: <001e01c1fce8$c3b02e00$df3dd6d1@h1x1g0> ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1FCC7.3C10A5E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Frank - I just purchased a partially built KR2s that I am converting = from tri -to taildragger - I had a KR2 before which was sold then = crashed (N2CC - look at NTSB reports) What I need are measurments and = some infor to finish rigging - pedal assys, and other needed info. Am = going to be raising the rear spar and going with the new airfoil, = pushrod controls, Dr.Dean hinges - aluminum tanks Corvair power. = =20 I am also starting to look for instruments and radios - good used or = new - I like the EIS system but it is a little pricey - I do have a EXT = Bus switch system (according to Mark) but have no paperwork on it to = know wiring for it and its specs. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1FCC7.3C10A5E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:13:09 -0700 (PDT) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Frank Ross Subject: KR MAnual Message-ID: <20020516141309.66295.qmail@web21508.mail.yahoo.com> Bill, You might take a look at Don Stewart’s D’Fly page: http://www.si-inc.com/dragonfly/ It has links to other Dragonfly and Quickie pages and is interesting to read anyway. He also has a "For Sale" section which does not have any canopies now, but you could post a 'Wanted' for a Dragonfly canopy. Also, remember that a Quickie-2 canopy will be very close to Dragonfly. Don't overlook posting an ad on Barnstormer's too. You may get a canopy, manual, whol knows what else, there. It was free last time I looked. Frank Ross in San Antonio, TX __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 16:35:44 +1200 To: "KRNET" From: "David French" Subject: Contact information Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1FCF7.BA020220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi everyone, Can anyone tell me how I can contact Stu Robinson? David FrenchGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://e= xplorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1FCF7.BA020220-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 07:01:36 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: KR> KR MAnual-glass cockpit Message-ID: Check this baby out. John B. sent this link too me. http://www.dynondevelopment.com/docs/EFISinfo.html Dana Overall Richmond, KY 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host http://rvflying.tripod.com I am also starting to look for instruments and radios - good used or new - I like the EIS system but it is a little pricey - I do have a EXT Bus switch system (according to Mark) but have no paperwork on it to know wiring for it and its specs. _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 06:03:13 -0500 To: "krnet" From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Fw: New Brazing Products Brochure Message-ID: <003301c1fcc9$46176950$95621e41@Administration> Some of you may be interested in this resource. KRRon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Request Catalogs" Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2002 10:34 AM Subject: New Brazing Products Brochure A new Brazing Products brochure is now available from Alfa Aesar, a Johnson Matthey Company. The 6-page brochure lists the comprehensive line of alloys, fluxes and solders from Johnson Matthey Metal Joining. The brochure includes specifications and listings of cadmium-free brazing alloys, cadmium-containing silver brazing alloys, silver alloys for tungsten carbide brazing, trifoils for tungsten carbides, high temperature alloys for tungsten carbides, and alloys for fluxless brazing of copper. The brazing fluxes that are offered include various grades of Mattiflux and JM Tenacity flux powders and pastes. The brochure lists applications, active temperature ranges, and notes on residues and other technical considerations for the fluxes. A wide range of tin/lead solders is offered as solid wires or flux-cored. Also available are silver-containing, silver-bearing, copper-bearing, and lead-free solders and a variety of soft solder fluxes to meet many different applications. Lastly, the brochure includes a comparison and standard specifications chart. The chart lists Johnson Matthey brazing product specifications and comparative items available from other suppliers. Johnson Matthey has global manufacturing capability backed by more than 70 years of experience in the brazing and soldering industry. Brazing products are manufactured as brazing rods, flux coated rods, strips, wire, foil, rings, washers, pastes, powders and more. To request a copy of our new Brazing Brochure, simply reply to this message (be sure to include your mailing address); or click on the link below. http://www.alfa.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?PROCFUN+WEBOEP+DSPNEWS+ALF+FUNCPARMS+FO RMTYPE(A0010):N+HTMLLINK(A0200):NEWR04 Alfa Aesar periodically sends e-mail notifications, primarily announcing new catalogs. If you would like to be removed from this mailing list, please reply to this message with remove in the subject line. This e-mail and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify waygwadm@jmusa.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 May 2002 21:49:04 +0200 To: "Rick Wilson" , From: "dene.collett" Subject: Re: KR> stub wings Message-ID: <000001c1fd1b$c4a55b40$5d95cba3@dean> ----- Original Message ----- > Hi, i bought a kr2 finished and ready to fly (after > inspecting everything closely). The previous owner > changed the landing gear from the original retract > setup to trigear with oleo struts. Hi Rick I don't have any advice for you but I would very much like to see a pic or two of what the gear set-up looks like. Does the front wheel also retract? Thanks Dene Collett South Africa mailto: dene.collett@freemail.absa.co.za ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 17:34:06 -0500 To: kr From: Peg and Mike Meyer Subject: Removable Tail Cone Message-id: <00ae01c1fd29$ca747200$f842fea9@o0c8u6> --Boundary_(ID_oub9gRNvzq1nE9hFkZSM6A) Content-type: text/plain; charset=Windows-1252 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Howdy Folks: I need a bit reinforcement here, so to speak - I just finished my turtledeck and I have decided to make the tailcone removable for inspections, adjustments, etc. This is causing me a bit consternation - to make this doable, I'm going to wind up floxing some blind nuts into the vertical and horizontal stab. I not completely sure that this is a great idea. I'm concerned about messing up the structural strength of the vert and horizontal stab. Moreover, for you guys who have experience with removable fiberglass inspection plates, how many layers of glass did you use on the area that supports the screw on the plate? I appreciate your thoughts... By the way, has anyone out there attempted this or seen it done? Mike Meyer --Boundary_(ID_oub9gRNvzq1nE9hFkZSM6A)-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 16:09:00 -0700 (PDT) To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: Rick Wilson Subject: Removable tailcone Message-ID: <20020516230900.69852.qmail@web21206.mail.yahoo.com> Mike, I've never seen or heard of a removable tailcone on a KR. My KR2 is built pretty much to specs with the exception of the landing gear, It has a removable inspection plate on the side of the aft fuselage about 8"x10" made of aluminum. It is held in place with screws and nut plates. It fits flush with the skin so it shouldn't create any drag, with this plate removed you have access to a lot of the inside tail section. Anyway it's just something to think about. Thanks, Rick Wilson. rwdw2002@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 19:50:53 -0700 To: "Krnet@Mailinglists.Org" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> Removable Tail Cone Message-ID: Use as many inspection plates as it takes to make you comfortable, but remember that the skin provides much of the strength. Removable tail cone??? Don't kill yourself. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242 at: WWW.EAA242.ORG -----Original Message----- From: Peg and Mike Meyer [mailto:pmmeyer@swbell.net] Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 3:34 PM To: kr Subject: KR> Removable Tail Cone Howdy Folks: I need a bit reinforcement here, so to speak - I just finished my turtledeck and I have decided to make the tailcone removable for inspections, adjustments, etc. This is causing me a bit consternation - to make this doable, I'm going to wind up floxing some blind nuts into the vertical and horizontal stab. I not completely sure that this is a great idea. I'm concerned about messing up the structural strength of the vert and horizontal stab. Moreover, for you guys who have experience with removable fiberglass inspection plates, how many layers of glass did you use on the area that supports the screw on the plate? I appreciate your thoughts... By the way, has anyone out there attempted this or seen it done? Mike Meyer --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 20:29:55 -0400 To: From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> Removable Tail Cone Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.0.20020516201623.00a2ba00@pop.erols.com> --=====================_15981154==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >I need a bit reinforcement here, so to speak - I just finished my >turtledeck and I have decided to make the tailcone removable for >inspections, adjustments, etc. ... >how many layers of glass did you use on the area that supports the screw >on the plate? I appreciate your thoughts... If you mean the area above and in front of the empenage, yes. I have done that one. One photo is available on my website that shows the area under the removable section. My turtleback in three plies of glass laid in a mold that I built. There are two additional plies in the removable section, with about three more in a strip under the screw area. I used that many so that the screws could be countersunk. The flanges that I made are about 6 plies of glass and glued to the top longeron. If this is the kind of setup you are considering, I will post a few more photos. Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org --=====================_15981154==_.ALT-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 17:06:11 -0700 (PDT) To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: Rick Wilson Subject: canopy seal Message-ID: <20020517000611.23990.qmail@web21208.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, In the rear of the canopy where the canopy frame meets the rear turtledeck cover, do most people make a lip for the canopy frame to sit on, or do most just leave a small gap and put in some kind of seal? Mine is just flat on the rear of the canopy frame and on the front of the turtledeck(rear cover). What is the best way to fix this? It fits closely, but still seems like it would need some kind of seal. Thanks, Rick Wilson. rwdw2002@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 19:17:23 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> canopy seal Message-ID: <023401c1fd38$380a4e80$0100a8c0@TD310> Rick Wilson wrote: > Hi, In the rear of the canopy where the canopy frame > meets the rear turtledeck cover, do most people make a > lip for the canopy frame to sit on, or do most just > leave a small gap and put in some kind of seal? Although I haven't done it yet, I'm going to close the canopy and tape over the gap and aft deck with packaging tape (and maybe a sixteenth inch of canopy) and lay up about three layers of carbon fiber (you could use 4 or 5 layers of glass) onto the aft end of the canopy, overlapping the gap and aft deck by a half inch or so. This will definitely shed all rain, center the canopy when closed, keep your hair from being sucked out of the crack while flying, and any exiting air leakage that you DO have will be parallel to the surface, so won't be nearly as bad as the drag-producing geysers that some canopies have. And I'll probably put an EPDM seal in there too (thin gray stuff from Home Depot), for good measure. I've flown in several KRs that have no seal of any kind, all the way around, for what it's worth... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 18:56:57 -0700 (PDT) To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: Rick Wilson Subject: canopy seal Message-ID: <20020517015657.28893.qmail@web21209.mail.yahoo.com> Mark, Thanks, I had considered making a lip on the underside of the turtledeck and closing the canopy down onto it, but I like your suggestion much better. It will streamline the back of the canopy into the rear deck and also shed moisture better if ther happened to come an unavoidable shower while in the air. Thanks for the info, Rick Wilson. rwdw2002@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 21:20:06 -0500 To: From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> canopy seal Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020516212006.0085a100@mail.midwest.net> >Although I haven't done it yet, I'm going to close the canopy and tape over >the gap and aft deck with packaging tape (and maybe a sixteenth inch of >canopy) and lay up about three layers of carbon fiber (you could use 4 or 5 >layers of glass) onto the aft end of the canopy, overlapping the gap and aft >deck by a half inch or so. > >Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I did about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch overlap with three layers of glass tape and that seems strong enough but I went one step further. After the overlap was cured and sanded to a straight edge, I taped it around all edges ( I used plastic electrical tape) and closed it. I then laid three layer of glass tape with the nice straight edge butted up to the closed canopy (gullwing door in my case) and let it cure. I then sanded the back edge to a bit of a taper and after filling/sanding there is only a hair-line crack and no (visible) change in surface elevation. I did the same thing on my cowl and it turned out great. And we wonder why our KR's turn into "pigs" and take twelve years to build ?!! Larry Flesner P.S. I hate using the rolls of glass tape. They don't wet out well and they have the one edge that is always stringy and has to be sanded back off. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 06:36:19 -0700 To: "Rick Wilson" , From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> canopy seal Message-ID: Rick, When we were laying this whole thing out, we built a bow that forms the shape of the T-Deck, out of foam and glass. We taped over the fore half width of that where the canopy door would be and then built the T-deck re-formed the KR part ) over the bow. We then built the canopy to a front bow and this aft bow and T-deck. When we cut the canopy out, we had a lip, that was the top of the bow, that is about 3/4" wide. I have also added a lip down the center line. We also used a similar procedure for the front bow, so there is a lip there also. The front bow has a good bit of carbon fiber in it, but the rest is just glass. If you are interested in more, look at the canopy section of our site and let me know if you would like to see pictures of any of it in more detail and I will post them on the site. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242 at: WWW.EAA242.ORG -----Original Message----- From: Rick Wilson [mailto:rwdw2002@yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 5:06 PM To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG Subject: KR> canopy seal Hi, In the rear of the canopy where the canopy frame meets the rear turtledeck cover, do most people make a lip for the canopy frame to sit on, or do most just leave a small gap and put in some kind of seal? Mine is just flat on the rear of the canopy frame and on the front of the turtledeck(rear cover). What is the best way to fix this? It fits closely, but still seems like it would need some kind of seal. Thanks, Rick Wilson. rwdw2002@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience http://launch.yahoo.com --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 07:30:56 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> canopy seal Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020517073056.0087a100@mail.midwest.net> >Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 22:00:16 -0500 >To: krnet@mailinglist.org >From: larry flesner >Subject: Re: KR> canopy seal > >>Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 21:46:02 -0500 >>To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG >>From: larry flesner >>Subject: Re: KR> canopy seal In-Reply-To: <20020517015657.28893.qmail@web21209.mail.yahoo.com> Mark, Thanks, I had considered making a lip on the >underside of the turtledeck and closing the canopy >down onto it, but I like your suggestion much better. > Rick Wilson. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++> Rick, You can do both. I didn't mention in my earlier post but I have a "lip" on the inside (approx. 3/8 inch) that my gullwing door closes down on and then finished the outside as mentioned in my first post. When closed and locked down with tappered locking pins it has zero movement and almost appears to be glassed in place. I can actually shake the entire aircraft using the outside handle and there is no movement of the gullwing door. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 00:29:37 -0700 To: From: "jim @ synergy design" Subject: waf position Message-ID: <001e01c1fd74$9ad26d40$0101a8c0@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1FD39.ED34ACA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am about to mount my shiny new fire engine red TET wafs. The hole = distance seems to be too close to the edge of the sparcaps (about = 3/16"). The 2s suppliment shows the lowers angled, but it still seems = close at the end bolts. any comments? Also is anyone using the TET = upper gear leg brackets with the Diehl legs?=20 ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C1FD39.ED34ACA0-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 20:04:36 +1000 To: From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Tail drager Message-ID: <010301c1fd8a$47205520$8996dccb@Matheson> Yes, But if you are not up to scratch on your landings, tail dragers love to ground loop. Phil matheson@dodo.com.au ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel Heath" To: Sent: 15 May 2002 12:37 Subject: RE: KR> Tail drager > I am surprised at that observation. I thought it was the other way around. > Many think that the tri-gear has advantages over the tail dragger. > > It is my personal preference that the KR be a tail dragger and would never > build one any other way. > > The advantages of a tail dragger, are less weight, less drag, less > complexity, less things to go wrong (mechanical), less expensive, less time > to build, and much much much prettier. > > Daniel R. Heath > > See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org > > See our EAA Chapter 242 at: WWW.EAA242.ORG > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: hommevolant@sympatico.ca [mailto:hommevolant@sympatico.ca] > Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2002 11:58 AM > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> Tail drager > > > Why so many people who as tri-gear config change to taildrager type ? > What is the adventage ? > > Would like to know before I start to build. > > Regards > > François Poirier > hommevolant@sympatico.ca > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 07:19:26 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Da pics:-) Message-ID: We get so worried about the weight of "stuff" we put on our airplanes. Notice the aviation grade fuel lines and transfer valves at the bottom of the panel. The hole in the top middle is his HUD, needed in this airplane. In the Spirit of aviation.........what is it and who is that in the airplane...........that Week at Sun & Fun? Could it be Kermit the Frog?? http://rvflying.tripod.com/spirit.jpg It's Friday, let's have some fun!! Dana Overall Richmond, KY 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host http://rvflying.tripod.com _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 08:05:13 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Da pics:-) Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020517080513.00877c40@mail.midwest.net> >In the Spirit of aviation.........what is it and who is that in the >airplane...........that Week at Sun & Fun? Could it be Kermit the Frog?? >It's Friday, let's have some fun!! >Dana Overall ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I'd guess that to be the replica "Spirit of St. Louis". I tried to get the "N" number that the original "Spirit" used but you can't start a number with X anymore. I tried to get just 211 (original Spirit was X-211) but the EAA has that for the replica so I got 211LF for my KR. How's that for "having the Spirit"? :-) Have a nice weekend everyone. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 16:57:18 +0200 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: brunipietro@virgilio.it Subject: diesel Engine Message-ID: --=_alternative 00522687C1256BBC_= Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Some one knows something about Diesel Engine (running with JetA1 fuel) useble for KR?? By Pietro.. --=_alternative 00522687C1256BBC_=-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************