From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 29 May 2002 17:50:01 -0000 Issue 440 Date: Wednesday, May 29, 2002 10:50 AM krnet Digest 29 May 2002 17:50:01 -0000 Issue 440 Topics (messages 10462 through 10490): patching plywood 10462 by: Larry A. Capps 10468 by: virgnvs.juno.com Re: Fuel tanks - Foamex 10463 by: idrawtobuild 10472 by: bstarrs 10477 by: Ron Eason 10490 by: klodhopper.iVillage.com Rick Wilsons Ply Repair 10464 by: Peter Johnson Accumulated Thoughts on Fuel Tanks 10465 by: Peter Johnson trim tab 10466 by: Tim Brown 10470 by: larry flesner 10473 by: Jan Laan 10475 by: Jerry . charter.net 10478 by: Ron Eason 10481 by: dennismingear.netscape.net 10482 by: dennismingear.netscape.net Re: Porsche engine 10467 by: virgnvs.juno.com Re: Fuel tanks 10469 by: virgnvs.juno.com 10471 by: Gary Sprunger What condenser is used on VW Type IV? 10474 by: Shawn Christopherson 10476 by: Mark Langford Re: Space Travel 10479 by: Ron Eason 10484 by: Ron Eason Fouled plug 10480 by: D.B.Durgin Re: electric trim 10483 by: Mike Virus hoax info 10485 by: Robert Stone 10486 by: gleone gas tank 10487 by: Audrey and Harold Woods trim tabs 10488 by: Tim Brown 10489 by: Jerry . charter.net Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:14:12 -0500 To: From: "Larry A. Capps" Subject: patching plywood Message-ID: <000001c2065a$53323da0$0600a8c0@schpankme> AC 43.13-1B ACCEPTABLE METHODS, TECHNIQUES, AND PRACTICES AIRCRAFT INSPECTION AND REPAIR September 8, 1998 (With Change 1 Incorporated) http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/43-13/ << - AC 43.13-1B http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/ http://av-info.faa.gov/ Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL -----Original Message----- FAA Advisory Circular 43.13-1B will tell you all about it, and every builder ought to have a copy. Currently about 720 pages, available from various suppliers at about $20. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:16:16 -0400 To: rwdw2002@yahoo.com From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: KRNET@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> patching plywood Message-ID: <20020528.163238.-289365.0.virgnvs@juno.com> Sand where delamination was removed. One or two layers to bring up to level, 2 to 4 inches past delaminated area for strength. Sand,paint done, Virg On Mon, 27 May 2002 12:29:03 -0700 (PDT) Rick Wilson writes: > Hi, I found a crack in the paint on the fuselage side > about 8" aft of the instrument panel and running from > about 4" below the top longeron to about 7" below the > longeron(about 3" long). I sanded the paint off and > found it to be an old patch over a place where the > plywood had delaminated. They just put a layer of > glass cloth over the place and then smoothed it over > with micro. I've removed the old glass and micro and > got down to the wood about 3 to 4 inches all the way > around the old patched place. My question is what is > the best way to fix this place so that it doesn't come > back? I also removed the delaminated layer of wood. > The remaining plies are very thin and won't stand a > lot of pressure being applied. Should I start with > flox and then overlay with glass or what should I do? > Any help or suggestions will be appreciated. P.S. I > think I'll probably wind up having to remove the > upholstery from the inside and gluing a patch plate of > plywood over it on the inside also. Any suggestions? > Thanks, Rick Wilson. > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 08:15:45 -0700 To: From: "idrawtobuild" Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex Message-ID: <005701c2065a$8af91c40$6e13fea9@greg> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Eason" To: ; "KR Builders (E-mail)" Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 3:59 AM Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex > I have it in my tanks, it can be purchased at most auto performance outlets. > > KRRon I though I would remind everyone that I had mentioned the aluminum idea about 2 years ago. It is used in the Grumman American AA1 and is a standard STC for that aircraft. As was said before. The G A AA! is a heavier plane and the fuel sloshing around wouldn't have as much effect on it as in the KR's. But I'm putting it in my KR-1 and using the foamex. All I need is to find some time to work on the little rascal. I have removed the header tank and started on the new tanks when the work started coming in 100 fold. If anyone has some time in a bottle they would sell me, I'm interested. Greg Martin idrawtobuild@ncinernet.net Trying to put a KR1 back into the air ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 17:43:43 -0700 To: From: "bstarrs" Subject: Fw: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex Message-ID: <006001c206a9$e2ccafa0$9200a8c0@bstarrs> I don't know any thing about Fomex. Can you put it in after the tank is intalled? Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "idrawtobuild" To: Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 8:15 AM Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ron Eason" > To: ; "KR Builders (E-mail)" > Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 3:59 AM > Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex > > > > I have it in my tanks, it can be purchased at most auto performance > outlets. > > > > KRRon > I though I would remind everyone that I had mentioned the aluminum idea > about 2 years ago. It is used in the Grumman American AA1 and is a standard > STC for that aircraft. > > As was said before. The G A AA! is a heavier plane and the fuel sloshing > around wouldn't have as much effect on it as in the KR's. But I'm putting > it in my KR-1 and using the foamex. All I need is to find some time to work > on the little rascal. > > I have removed the header tank and started on the new tanks when the work > started coming in 100 fold. > > If anyone has some time in a bottle they would sell me, I'm interested. > > Greg Martin > idrawtobuild@ncinernet.net > Trying to put a KR1 back into the air > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 21:06:27 -0500 To: "bstarrs" , From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex Message-ID: <001301c206b5$7105fbe0$d6dc1f41@Administration> Foamex comes in 2" cubes and is compressible to a pea size cube. Available for Jeg's www.jegs.com I have it in my fuel tanks and buy the way it seams to be a real good filter. You can change it out anytime. KRRon ----- Original Message ----- From: "bstarrs" To: Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 7:43 PM Subject: Fw: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex > I don't know any thing about Fomex. Can you put it in after the tank is > intalled? Bill > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "idrawtobuild" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 8:15 AM > Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Ron Eason" > > To: ; "KR Builders (E-mail)" > > Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 3:59 AM > > Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex > > > > > > > I have it in my tanks, it can be purchased at most auto performance > > outlets. > > > > > > KRRon > > I though I would remind everyone that I had mentioned the aluminum idea > > about 2 years ago. It is used in the Grumman American AA1 and is a > standard > > STC for that aircraft. > > > > As was said before. The G A AA! is a heavier plane and the fuel sloshing > > around wouldn't have as much effect on it as in the KR's. But I'm putting > > it in my KR-1 and using the foamex. All I need is to find some time to > work > > on the little rascal. > > > > I have removed the header tank and started on the new tanks when the work > > started coming in 100 fold. > > > > If anyone has some time in a bottle they would sell me, I'm interested. > > > > Greg Martin > > idrawtobuild@ncinernet.net > > Trying to put a KR1 back into the air > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:46:51 -0700 To: From: Cc: Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex Message-ID: <075d01c20738$d03f0830$6cc8010a@mail2world.com> ------=_NextPart_000_075E_01C206FE.23E03030 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Or you can get 16"x4"x6" blocks from Speedway Motors, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ for 6.95 ea. Look under Race Products and then fuel cells. Brad _______________________________________________________________ Sign up for FREE iVillage newsletters . From health and pregnancy to shopping and relationships, iVillage has the scoop on what matters most to you. <-----Original Message-----> > > From: Ron Eason > Sent: 5/28/2002 9:03:27 PM > To: bstarrs@cybertrails.com; krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex > > Foamex comes in 2" cubes and is compressible to a pea size cube. Available > for Jeg's www.jegs.com I have it in my fuel tanks and buy the way it seams > to be a real good filter. You can change it out anytime. > KRRon > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "bstarrs" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 7:43 PM > Subject: Fw: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex > > > I don't know any thing about Fomex. Can you put it in after the tank is > intalled? Bill > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "idrawtobuild" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 8:15 AM > Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks - Foamex > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------=_NextPart_000_075E_01C206FE.23E03030-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:32:30 -0700 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Rick Wilsons Ply Repair Message-ID: <003201c2068a$8e0d8760$a0a5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C2064C.1E07BD20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Rick. So far everyone has told you to build up the damaged area with = glass/epoxy/filler. My suggestion may go against popular opinion but I = offer it as food for thought. Building up relatively large, thick areas of glass/epoxy in a wood = structure can lead to problems very much as you have already = experienced, ie, seperation of the glass/epoxy from the wood. The = reason for this that the physical properties of glass/epoxy versus the = wood that it's laying on are so different that that the relationship the = two share are bound to end in divorce. If one is going to lay = cloth/epoxy up over wood and achieve success, the cloth/epoxy layup must = not be 'thick' or heavy, and must entirely enclose the wood structure to = achieve success. Differences in thermo expansion rates, = expansion/contraction due to moisture takeup, and flexibility between a = cloth/epoxy patch laying isolated on a piece of wood, and the wood = itself will almost inevitably lead to seperation at sometime in the = future. So, my suggestion to you is to remove the old plywood, which you've = already done, and lay in a new piece of plywood. Make the 'hole' of = size and shape to suit, cut a new piece of ply to the same size and = shape with the grain running in the same direction. Then, cut 'battens' = to fit around circumference of the hole with half of the batten width = laying on the existing ply, and half of the width coming 'inside' of the = hole. Cut and glue these in place on the inside of the existing ply. = Next, glue the patch onto the half batten width that is showing inside = of the hole, ie, the battens will act as shoulders for the patch to lay = on. Considering the thickness of the ply on your fuse the battens need = not be more than 3/4" wide. You can cut them with the grain running in = such a direction that you can take advantage of the flex of the ply, and = to hold the battens in place on the fuse you can use clothespins if = you've nothing else to hand.=20 Considering the flexability of the patch, and the relatively flat area = of the fuse you're laying it in, you can use clear plastic packaging = tape to hold the patch in place on the fuse. Lay a couple of pencils = under the tape and on the edge of the patch if you must to derive more = 'push down' affect from the tape. After the glue has dried, board = everything down smooth, fill in any desparities with filler and board = again. Finish as per the existing fuse and you're done. One = suggestion, because you're going to be edge gluing the ply, mix a small = amount of epoxy and coat the edges of the ply, battens, and patch before = you lay the patch in. =20 Hope this helps Rick. Drop me a line if you want. mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C2064C.1E07BD20-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 13:58:06 -0700 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Accumulated Thoughts on Fuel Tanks Message-ID: <003401c2068a$91ea4c60$a0a5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01C2064F.B15C6280 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable After reading the last couple of weeks posts on fuel tanks, I think it = safe to derive the following: 1) If you're going to build a composite tank, build it as a seperate = unit from the wing structure. This will reduce cracking along joints = due to wing flexure. 2) If you're going to build a composite tank, make sure the epoxy you = use is auto fuel additive resistant. Contact! issue 66 had an article = about a Lancair with a Corvette engine. It turned out that Hysol epoxy = was attacked by auto fuel additives. The article then went on to = describe the repair work using a new Jeffco epoxy developed for use with = auto fuel additives. (If you're not already suscribing to Contact!, you = really must. It is an excellent journal focusing on all aspects of auto = engine conversions, cooling and system design, and airframe = development.) 3) What ever type of tank construction you elect to use, install the = tank is such a way that wing flexure will not impose undue flexural = loads on the tank. One need only to ask and look around to find a = number of affective ways of doing this. 4) Pressure test your tanks. There are a couple of ways of doing = this, using either air pressure or a water column. Do some research and = math and determine just what kind of pressure your tank needs to be = tested to. 5) MAKE SURE YOUR TANKS ARE CLEAN AND DRY BEFORE FITTING THEM!!!! = How many times have we all heard of fuel starvation due to clogged = screens?! 6) Do your best to install a fuel screen at the tank outlet, and do = your best to make the screen accessible for inspection in the future. = If you don't install a screen in the tank, install one immediately after = the tank outlet. =20 Just my two cents worth is all.............. mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01C2064F.B15C6280-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:08:24 -0700 (PDT) To: Group KR NET From: Tim Brown Subject: trim tab Message-ID: <20020528190824.24490.qmail@web9505.mail.yahoo.com> In reviewing Tony B's books re adjustable trim tab I noticed that he shows piano wire from lever to cockpit control arm. Anyone have pros or cons on cable versus piano wire? Tim __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:25:48 -0500 To: Tim Brown ,Group KR NET From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> trim tab Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020528162548.008954c0@mail.midwest.net> >In reviewing Tony B's books re adjustable trim >tab I noticed that he shows piano wire from lever >to cockpit control arm. >Anyone have pros or cons on cable versus piano >wire? >Tim +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I presently have a piano wire pushrod from cockpit to rear of aircraft and switch to a model airplane push-pull rod (plastic) for my trim tab and I'm not happy with the "trim tab trail edge slop" that I have. I'm looking to go electric trim setup to eliminate all slop at the trim tab but don't like the price of the "Mac trim" at $220 . I'm hoping to find something less expensive but I may have to bite the bullet. I'm coming down the home stretch on completion and don't have a lot of time left to change it. Anyone got a used system they are wanting to sell???? Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 18:20:36 -0700 To: larry flesner , Tim Brown , Group KR NET From: Jan Laan Subject: Re: KR> trim tab Message-id: <0GWU007C6MG78Z@l-daemon> I would think that everything you need to build an electric trim tab system can be had for free and in abundance. Dot matrix printers are thrown out by the hundreds.The local SA thriftstore doesn't offer them for resale anymore because there's no market. All you need is an electronics guru to tie it all together again in trim tab fashion after the printer has been taken apart. Those motors are all high-quality. > I'm looking to go electric trim setup to eliminate >all slop at the trim tab but don't like the price of the "Mac trim" at >$220 . I'm hoping to find something less expensive but I may have to >bite the bullet. I'm coming down the home stretch on completion and >don't have a lot of time left to change it. Anyone got a used system >they are wanting to sell???? > >Larry Flesne Jan Laan - >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 21:48:18 -0700 To: "Group KR NET" From: "Jerry @ charter.net" Subject: Re: KR> trim tab Message-ID: <001601c206cc$0d4b02f0$6401a8c0@oldmyrddin> Larry, et al, We are attempting to look at electrically adjusted outside rear view mirrors.... Don't know what we will find yet, but you can get it all at the auto junk yard for $25.... Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC See our KR2 at http://kr-builder.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jan Laan" To: "larry flesner" ; "Tim Brown" ; "Group KR NET" Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 6:20 PM Subject: Re: KR> trim tab > I would think that everything you need to build an electric trim tab > system can be had for free and in abundance. > > Dot matrix printers are thrown out by the hundreds.The local SA > thriftstore doesn't offer them for resale anymore because there's > no market. > > All you need is an electronics guru to tie it all together again > in trim tab fashion after the printer has been taken apart. > Those motors are all high-quality. > > > I'm looking to go electric trim setup to eliminate > >all slop at the trim tab but don't like the price of the "Mac trim" at > >$220 . I'm hoping to find something less expensive but I may have to > >bite the bullet. I'm coming down the home stretch on completion and > >don't have a lot of time left to change it. Anyone got a used system > >they are wanting to sell???? > > > >Larry Flesne > > Jan Laan > > - > >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 21:12:23 -0500 To: "Jan Laan" , "larry flesner" , "Tim Brown" , "Group KR NET" From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Re: KR> trim tab Message-ID: <002201c206b6$4526cb20$d6dc1f41@Administration> I brought mine at Oshkosh from a vender in Florida he has sales when he goes up their. STC'd for allot of spam cans. Came complete with switch wiring instructions and position indicator. He will haggle with you on price. KRRon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jan Laan" To: "larry flesner" ; "Tim Brown" ; "Group KR NET" Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 8:20 PM Subject: Re: KR> trim tab > I would think that everything you need to build an electric trim tab > system can be had for free and in abundance. > > Dot matrix printers are thrown out by the hundreds.The local SA > thriftstore doesn't offer them for resale anymore because there's > no market. > > All you need is an electronics guru to tie it all together again > in trim tab fashion after the printer has been taken apart. > Those motors are all high-quality. > > > I'm looking to go electric trim setup to eliminate > >all slop at the trim tab but don't like the price of the "Mac trim" at > >$220 . I'm hoping to find something less expensive but I may have to > >bite the bullet. I'm coming down the home stretch on completion and > >don't have a lot of time left to change it. Anyone got a used system > >they are wanting to sell???? > > > >Larry Flesne > > Jan Laan > > - > >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 01:02:33 -0400 To: jerrymahurin@charter.net ("Jerry @ charter.net"), krnet@mailinglists.org ("Group KR NET") From: dennismingear@netscape.net Subject: Re: KR> trim tab Message-ID: <09D2FE08.3BAF3689.2514A758@netscape.net> The Honda Accord uses electrically adjustable rear view mirrors on each door. The are activated with a cool little 4-way switch (up/down/left/right). I guess they break, but I've never seen a broken one. There must be a bazillion Honda's out there just waiting to be scavenged. Dennis ... "Jerry @ charter.net" wrote: >Larry, et al, > >We are attempting to look at electrically adjusted outside rear view >mirrors....  Don't know what we will find yet, but you can get it all at the >auto junk yard for $25.... > >Jerry Mahurin >Lugoff, SC >See our KR2 at http://kr-builder.org > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jan Laan" >To: "larry flesner" ; "Tim Brown" >; "Group KR NET" >Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 6:20 PM >Subject: Re: KR> trim tab > > >> I would think that everything you need to build an electric trim tab >> system can be had for free and in abundance. >> >> Dot matrix printers are thrown out by the hundreds.The local SA >> thriftstore doesn't offer them for resale anymore because there's >> no market. >> >> All you need is an electronics guru to tie it all together again >> in trim tab fashion after the printer has been taken apart. >> Those motors are all high-quality. >> > >>   I'm looking to go electric trim setup to eliminate >> >all slop at the trim tab  but don't like the price of the "Mac trim" at >> >$220 .  I'm hoping to find something less expensive but I may have to >> >bite the bullet.  I'm coming down the home stretch on completion and >> >don't have a lot of time left to change it.  Anyone got a used system >> >they are wanting to sell???? >> > >> >Larry Flesne >> >> Jan Laan >> >> - >> >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" >> > >> >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> > >> >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >> >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones >> > >> >> >> --------------------------------------------------------------------- >> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" >> >> To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> >> See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >> and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones >> > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 01:11:20 -0400 To: jalan@axion.net (Jan Laan), flesner@midwest.net (larry flesner), timwbrown@yahoo.com (Tim Brown), krnet@mailinglists.org (Group KR NET) From: dennismingear@netscape.net Subject: Re: KR> trim tab Message-ID: <7EAA2B3A.6489ED9C.2514A758@netscape.net> Hmmmm, stepper motors what a neat idea, didn't think about that. My surplus catalogs show linear as well as rotary actuators (stepper motors). A quick search of the web under robotics and stepper motors will produce hundreds of hits. There are experimenter kits available for sale for just a few dollars. They include a motor and control chip. A little more money provides pre-wired circuit boards that are very small and inexpensive. They can be used with a wide array of stepper motors. Dennis ... Jan Laan wrote: >I would think that everything you need to build an electric trim tab >system can be had for free and in abundance. > >Dot matrix printers are thrown out by the hundreds.The local SA >thriftstore doesn't offer them for resale anymore because there's >no market. > >All you need is an electronics guru to tie it all together again >in trim tab fashion after the printer has been taken apart. >Those motors are all high-quality. >> >  I'm looking to go electric trim setup to eliminate >>all slop at the trim tab  but don't like the price of the "Mac trim" at >>$220 .  I'm hoping to find something less expensive but I may have to >>bite the bullet.  I'm coming down the home stretch on completion and >>don't have a lot of time left to change it.  Anyone got a used system >>they are wanting to sell???? >> >>Larry Flesne > >Jan Laan > >- >>To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" >> >>To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >>For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> >>See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >>and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones >> > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > __________________________________________________________________ Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:19:26 -0400 To: hommevolant@sympatico.ca From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Porsche engine Message-ID: <20020528.163238.-289365.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Check with Paul McReynolds, Miami. He has the same engine, Virg On Mon, 27 May 2002 19:32:51 -0400 writes: > A friend of me offered me a Porsche engine 6cyl. flat & aircooled as > VW. > Is there anybody who have any comments about that ? > Performance/Weight/Raliability > > Thanks........... > > Have fun > > Francois Poirier > hommevolant@sympatico.ca > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:22:10 -0400 To: tonysoldano@prodigy.net From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: clappw@bellsouth.net, krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks Message-ID: <20020528.163238.-289365.2.virgnvs@juno.com> Ain't it heavy, Virg On Mon, 27 May 2002 21:51:52 -0400 "TONY SOLDANO" writes: > Bill > > I am using the tank from my old water softener for a header > tank.should get > right around ten gallons with minor mods. > -----Original Message----- > From: clappw@bellsouth.net > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Date: Monday, May 27, 2002 9:55 PM > Subject: KR> Fuel tanks > > > Has anyone thought about putting in aluminum tanks out of aluminum > pipe > along the packside of the main outboard spars? A 5" tube 5' long > gives you > 5 gallons - a 6" tube 5 ' long gives you 7.3 gallons - And a 10" > round * > 34" long header tank is 11.5 gallons. Seems it could be an easy way > to > manufacture a tank that could be removed from the wing (removed) and > from > the forward turtledeck. I believe the 5" wing tube would still fit > in the > taper at lower end - Two tubes back to back could also be > installed. > Welding on end caps, vents and fill would be easy, you would get > every drop > out of wing tanks due to dihedral, easy to check for contamination > and > filler would be toward the tip. Can anyone think of a reason it may > not > work. I plan to use stock ailerons so cables would not be in the > way. They > allready make and aluminum tank that should fit as a header (VW sand > rails) > Just have to modify slightly. Throw me some suggestions - Ive also > looked > in at plastic tanks, Also a possibility. BILL > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:34:17 -0700 To: "Livingstone, Danny \(DJ\)" , From: "Gary Sprunger" Subject: Re: KR> Fuel tanks Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C20665.82F800F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Has anyone tried a no seam 1/4 thick polyethylene tank like those availab= le in J C Whitney? Pricey, @$160, 11 gal., but less than aluminium and wo= n't crack in temps down to minus 135 degrees. Gary Sprunger, Evergreen, C= olorado ----- Original Message ----- From: Livingstone, Danny (DJ) Sent: Monday, May 27, 2002 10:20 PM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: RE: KR> Fuel tanks > Has anyone thought about putting in aluminum tanks out of aluminum pipe > -----------SNIP------------- One of the problems you may encounter is the fuel that may move to the ou= ter ends of the tank during slips causing an imbalance. Baffles could be used= to minimize this. Spin performance/recovery will probably also take a seriou= s knock. Any thoughts? Danny Livingstone South Africa ********************************************************************** This e-mail and its attachments, if any, are intended only for use by the named addressee(s) and may contain information that is legally privileged, confidential, or both. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail, you are strictly prohibited from disseminating, distributing or copying this email and its attachments, if any. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender and permanently delete the original and any copies of this e-mail, its attachments, and any printed copies of any of them. ********************************************************************** --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C20665.82F800F0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 21:34:15 -0400 To: "KR Net Mailing List" From: "Shawn Christopherson" Subject: What condenser is used on VW Type IV? Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C2068F.6AAD0890 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In continuing to troubleshoot my ignition problem I want to replace the condenser. I received that suggestion from several on krnet as well as from local automotive shops. However, I removed mine and the only number it has on it is 265. AutoZone listed several numbers for Porsche 914 engines, but they had none in stock and none of the numbers was 265. I check at another local parts store and they had the one listed for the type IV, but it was quite a bit smaller. Does anyone know which condenser should be used with an Accel Super Stock coil on a type IV? If anyone out there is running a type IV, could you check on your condenser for a part number make? Any info would help. P.S. Luckily the problem is not the cylinder as all cylinders are getting a little carbon. I think either the condenser or the timing. Thanks, Shawn Christopherson http://ifly99.tripod.com Gardner, MA ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C2068F.6AAD0890-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 21:05:52 -0500 To: "KR Net Mailing List" From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> What condenser is used on VW Type IV? Message-ID: <005801c206b5$5ce3b7b0$7600a8c0@athlon600> Shawn Christopherson wrote: > Does anyone know which condenser should be used with > an Accel Super Stock coil on a type IV? If anyone out there is running a > type IV, could you check on your condenser for a part number make? Any info > would help. Shawn, I think you're barking up the wrong tree with your problem. One quick way to tell if the plug is firing or not is to remove it, plug it back in to the plug wire boot, ground the body of the plug to some metallic part of the engine, and (with the fuel turned off) crank the engine over and look (and listen) for a spark. I suspect you'll find a spark. Make sure it's bright yellow or blue, and not orange and dim. This is best done indoors or out of direct sunlight. It is conceivable that you can have a spark in free air but won't have one under compression conditions, but I doubt it's happening here. If three of your plugs are firing, the fourth one should also be getting a spark, and there's nothing wrong with your condensor. If you don't get a spark, but get one on the other three cylinders, start swapping wires, because you may have a bad one. If swapping wires doesn't help, buy a new cap. The old one may be cracked or have carbon tracking inside it, which shorts the spark to ground or some other plug. And take the earlier advice and start with the plug from one of the other cylinders (or a new one) to make sure you have a plug that is capable of firing even when dry. I still doubt that it's electrical, but it's easy to find out for sure by checking for a spark on the plug with the plug removed and the body grounded. If the cap had a bunch of corrosion in it at the plug wire connection for number four, I'd get a new cap promptly. Your earlier post mentioned that you cleaned that connection but the plug fouled shortly thereafter. Try a new cap, and swap the wires around to see if the problem moves with them. If so, buy new wires. If the plug is getting a spark, but it keeps fouling, I'd find out what's fouling that plug. If it's clear looking and smells of fuel, that's where you need to start looking. If it's oily, then I'd start looking at rings or valve guides, or something similar. Make sure that all cylinders have decent compression. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford older ones ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 21:21:07 -0500 To: "krnet" From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Fw: Space Travel Message-ID: <003c01c206b7$7f8f1320$d6dc1f41@Administration> ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C2068D.94DC5BE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This is a very good site to show your kids and you my enjoy it also. = Always wanted to put one of the Gemini Secondary Propulsion Rockets I = use to test on a plane[ 250 Lbs thrust weight is about 2 lbs. only one = problem burns red fumic nitric acid and UDMH (Hydrazine)] Had allot of = fun with it. KRRon Subject: Space Travel Did you say,"Fly me to the moon." Here you go, and then some. KRRon = SpaceWander Roundtrip First Class=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0039_01C2068D.94DC5BE0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 05:39:36 -0500 To: "krnet" From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Re: KR> Fw: Space Travel Message-ID: <001701c206fd$21309600$d6dc1f41@Administration> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Eason" To: "krnet" Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 9:21 PM Subject: KR> Fw: Space Travel This is a very good site to show your kids and you my enjoy it also. Always wanted to put one of the Gemini Secondary Propulsion Rockets I use to test on a plane[ 250 Lbs thrust weight is about 2 lbs. only one problem burns red fumic nitric acid and UDMH (Hydrazine)] Had allot of fun with it. KRRon Subject: Space Travel Did you say,"Fly me to the moon." Here you go, and then some. KRRon SpaceWander Roundtrip First Class http://www.spacewander.com/USA/english.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 00:18:02 -0400 To: From: "D.B.Durgin" Subject: Fouled plug Message-ID: <005601c206c7$d36ba160$9158fea9@athlon> ------=_NextPart_000_0053_01C206A6.4BB228A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Shawn, I think Mark has it about right about the condender not being = bad. The condense assists all the plugs and lots of weird things happen = when you have a bad one. A bad condenser won't just make one plug = misfire. Look carefully at your plugs, dry looking jet black soot is too = much fuel, shiny, sticky looking stuff is oil ( valve guide or oil ring = ) You might just be very rich mixture. Mine fouled the plugs really = black within 5 minutes at idle when I first cranked it up. It was just = too rich and as I recall it picked favorite cylinders to foul more than = others. I started thinking that I had big problems until I determined = that the black stuff was gasoline soot.=20 Dave Durgin ------=_NextPart_000_0053_01C206A6.4BB228A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 05:58:00 -0400 To: From: "Mike" Subject: RE: electric trim Message-ID: <005001c206f8$0e48bfe0$f6e52f44@shrpsr01.tn.comcast.net> ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C206D5.CA2F66A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I heard it here someone talked about a small electric motor for a trim = servo. I remember seeing a small remote mirror on a White Frieghtliner, = passenger side rear view mirror, guees I'll be junkyard shoppin for = mine. It was a 1999 fld series truck I think. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C206D5.CA2F66A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 07:41:07 -0500 To: "KRNet" From: "Robert Stone" Subject: Virus hoax info Message-ID: <000801c2070e$1d5d8540$05d81a18@hot.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C206E4.3161D340 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Netters,=20 Get this URL up on screen and see a full explanation of this virus = hoax. http://www.europe.f-secure.com/hoaxes/jdbgmgr.shtml Bob Stone, Harker Heights, TX rstone4@hot.rr.com ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C206E4.3161D340-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 07:04:18 -0500 To: Robert Stone From: gleone CC: KRNet Subject: Re: KR> Virus hoax info Message-ID: <3CF4C3C2.1268DD56@tritel.net> --------------BF18235607D0046F8B43FF04 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just wanted to add some information to Bob's post. Realizing this isn't a normal KR-Net posting, per se, when ever anyone sends a virus warning out they receive, regardless how well meaning they might be or how "trusted" the person is that sent it to them, it saves a whole lot of bandwidth to first check it out. There are several sites available to do just that. I usually go to symantec.com and do a search on the item. Almost always, they have it listed as a hoax. Now, if by some chance, someone actually does catch a computer virus, telling people they caught it and may have infected others is more than welcome. An example. Recently I received a couple of emails through my hotmail account. They were 138K. I went to open them and. . .nothing. Nothing on screen, that is. It turned out they carried the Autoupder.Backdoor virus. This little dandy allows hackers to download passwords and credit card information and God knows what else (up or download) from your computer. My ISP uses Postini.com to filter all incoming mail through them. Hotmail, on the other hand, does not. Since it came through my hotmail account, I got infected. Since my computer started doing very weird things later that day, I checked it for viruses and came up with 8 infected files based on the Autoupder.Backdoor virus. I spent the day cleaning the disk drives, changed all my passwords (do you have any idea what a pain in the fanny that is?!) on my computer as well as my various accounts (banking, credit card, email, etc.). Then I notified everyone on my email list of the infection and gave them the Symantec link to download the fix for the Autoupder.Backdoor virus. Fortunately, nobody on my email list was infected. If your (third person plural) ISP's aren't using something like Postini, shoot them an email and suggest they take a look at it. As others before me have said numerous times, if you don't recognize the person, delete without opening. Point in case: I've received numerous email attacks through my tritel.com (ISP) email account and Postini has caught everyone. Postini will quarantine the mail and let you read it without opening the attachments, where the viruses USUALLY reside. However, on several occasions, Postini would not open the general email due to malicious code in the HTML itself. That is how I got infected with the Autoupder.Backdoor virus. Bottom line: CHECK THE THING FIRST THROUGH SYMANTEC, McAFEE, WHOMEVER, BEFORE SENDING OUT WARNINGS ABOUT VIRUSES. Robert Stone wrote: > Netters, > Get this URL up on screen and see a full explanation of this virus hoax. > > http://www.europe.f-secure.com/hoaxes/jdbgmgr.shtml > > Bob Stone, Harker Heights, TX > rstone4@hot.rr.com --------------BF18235607D0046F8B43FF04-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:06:59 -0400 To: From: "Audrey and Harold Woods" Subject: gas tank Message-ID: <000001c2071b$aba19500$b0046418@baol.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C206F8.9202AC60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My gas tank is steel, heavy (16 lbs) out of a 78 Datson. It is well = baffled. It is strong and wont leak. Harold Woods. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/19/02 ------=_NextPart_000_0081_01C206F8.9202AC60-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 09:08:43 -0700 (PDT) To: Group KR NET From: Tim Brown Subject: trim tabs Message-ID: <20020529160843.41837.qmail@web9504.mail.yahoo.com> I guess my question posed earlier was a little unclear because I have not received a reply on topic yet. My question is aimed at the connection between the cockpit lever and the rear of the plane. Tony B's book shows piano wire. I was asking for any input...pros and cons, etc., between using the piano wire versus using cable for this run. Assume use of manual control rather than electric. Tim __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 13:33:34 -0400 To: Group KR NET From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> trim tabs Message-ID: Tim, On our KR2 we are using model airplane Nyrod. I have used piano wire on other planes. The piano wire offers the advantage of push/pull capabilities, but you can't make real sharp bends. I have seen very light cables used, but then you have to create a closed loop with pulleys, etc. So, the bottom line is piano wire is probably the best way to go; unless you want to use Nyrod..... Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org http://jerrymahurin.com On Wed, 29 May 2002 09:08:43 -0700 (PDT) Tim Brown wrote: >I guess my question posed earlier was a little >unclear because I have not received a reply on >topic yet. > >My question is aimed at the connection between >the cockpit lever and the rear of the plane. >Tony B's book shows piano wire. I was asking for >any input...pros and cons, etc., between using >the piano wire versus using cable for this run. > >Assume use of manual control rather than >electric. > >Tim > > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup >http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT >"reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: >krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: >krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at >http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org http://jerrymahurin.com ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************