From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 10 Jun 2002 17:03:11 -0000 Issue 447 Date: Monday, June 10, 2002 10:03 AM krnet Digest 10 Jun 2002 17:03:11 -0000 Issue 447 Topics (messages 10651 through 10680): Re: Work Bench Ideas 10651 by: Dave and Tina Goodman 10652 by: Darren Pond 10654 by: larry flesner 10658 by: Shane Daly 10667 by: Larry A. Capps Making a mistake 10653 by: Donald Reid 10655 by: Jerry Mahurin 10656 by: larry flesner 10657 by: Daniel Heath 10663 by: virgnvs.juno.com Glass work, Glass work!! 10659 by: Dana Overall Tailspring -tempering metal 10660 by: clappw.bellsouth.net 10661 by: Jerry Mahurin 10662 by: virgnvs.juno.com 10669 by: Jan Laan 10670 by: Daniel Heath Re: tailspring 10664 by: ace nunye 10671 by: larry flesner Assistance please 10665 by: Rex Ellington tailwheel tempering material 10666 by: Rick Wilson Fuel tank 10668 by: Livingstone, Danny (DJ) tail spring. 10672 by: Audrey and Harold Woods gas tanks 10673 by: Audrey and Harold Woods 10676 by: bstarrs tail spring tempering. 10674 by: Audrey and Harold Woods Re: flying experience 10675 by: Jeff York 10677 by: Larry A. Capps 10678 by: Seifert, Richard E Pitch sensativity 10679 by: jim . synergy design Pitch sensitivity 10680 by: Larry A. Capps Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 14:06:45 -0700 To: "Shane Daly" , "KR list" From: "Dave and Tina Goodman" Subject: Re: KR> Work Bench Ideas Message-ID: <001f01c20ff9$90c81420$1f45a6d1@oemcomputer> Shane, I made 2 benches with of 4x4 legs with 2x4 supports with a top made up of a sheet of 1-inch thick fiberboard. I used 2x4 around all the sides and three underneath the middle to give it strength and keep it flat. Worked great. The advantage of 2 4x8 foot tables is that you can move them around as you need for various stages of your building. Respectfully, Dave "Zipper" Goodman zipperts@whidbey.net N163PR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shane Daly" To: "KR list" Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 1:48 PM Subject: KR> Work Bench Ideas > Hello All, > > Does anyone out in KR land have a good resource for how to build a good straight, flat, solid work bench that does not require welding? I finally have some space, and if I'm lucky some time, to get back into my KR project. > > Thanks in advance, > > Shane Daly > Calgary, Canada > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 18:45:11 -0700 To: "Shane Daly" , "krnet" From: "Darren Pond" Subject: Re: KR> Work Bench Ideas Message-ID: <000b01c21020$75fce0e0$79469d18@cambr.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> HI All I used an industrial shelveing rack 17' long for my table and put two 4' by 8' plywood sheets down. They are welding structure and easy to bolt to so as to form a solid dead flat table. The challenge was to locate a pair that had not been hit by the fork truck. Darren Pond ----- Original Message ----- From: Shane Daly To: KR list Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 1:48 PM Subject: KR> Work Bench Ideas > Hello All, > > Does anyone out in KR land have a good resource for how to build a good straight, flat, solid work bench that does not require welding? I finally have some space, and if I'm lucky some time, to get back into my KR project. > > Thanks in advance, > > Shane Daly > Calgary, Canada > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 18:53:23 -0500 To: "krnet" From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Work Bench Ideas Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020609185323.008ad100@mail.midwest.net> >I used an industrial shelveing rack 17' long for my table and put two 4' by >8' plywood sheets down. (snip) The challenge was to locate a pair that had >not been hit by the fork truck. >Darren Pond ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I'm way past the point of needing a work table but I spotted some of the same shelving racks at an oil bulk plant lately. I think they are standard warehousing stock. The other material that comes to mind that I think would work great are the metal building "studs", the metal replacement for the old 2x4 studs. They would be nice and straight and two could be connected together for a 16 foot table. I'm not sure where you would find them but any contractor could steer you in the right direction. Darren was right about trying to find a straight shelf rack. Only about one in ten had not been "crunched" by a fork lift or other warehouse mishap! Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 18:46:07 -0700 To: KR list From: Shane Daly Subject: Re: Work Bench Ideas Message-id: <016401c21020$97593900$84194f18@cg.shawcable.net> --Boundary_(ID_gwNlK0nX7r0NdoPsQ7cMwA) Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Thanks All, All your ideas gave me lots to think about. Larry I like your idea with the TJI floor joists. That would give me the size of table I am looking for and I have access to some TJIs. I don't know why I didn't think of this myself. Thanks, Shane --Boundary_(ID_gwNlK0nX7r0NdoPsQ7cMwA)-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 22:40:27 -0500 To: "KR Builders List \(E-mail\)" From: "Larry A. Capps" Subject: Work Bench Ideas Message-ID: <000d01c21030$8fb3e000$0600a8c0@schpankme> When building a table using the TJI floor joists (9 1/2" height), your goal is to build a rigid Torsional box. This is easily accomplished by utilizing the joists on 16" centers for the framing, and by gluing and screwing (drywall screws) 5/8" particle board top, and 1/2" particle board bottom. Then added 1/8" Masonite to the top for durability and replacement. Another nice feature would be to include duplex electrical outlets, 2 each side, and one each end. Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL mailto:lacapps@attbi.com -----Original Message----- Larry I like your idea with the TJI floor joists. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 19:42:44 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Donald Reid Subject: Making a mistake Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.0.20020609192944.00a285f0@pop.erols.com> --=====================_15609178==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I have a story to tell about my latest work on the project. I have been installing engine components and controls. I am using a vernier control, it will turn for fine adjustment and when you push the central button, the control can be moved rapidly in either direction. Pretty standard stuff for a certified aircraft. After I measured the mixture control cable for the correct length, I removed the center wire in order to cut the sheath to length. I did not realize that there was a small ball in the shaft of the control wire. Naturally the ball got lost somewhere in the shop. I then needed to find a 5/32 inch diameter ball bearing in order to replace it. After scrounging around the shop, I found one 3/16 inch bearing. Too large. The next step was to pull out a box of old bearing, take one apart, and find a ball the correct size. The first one that I tried had 1/4 inch balls. Again, too large. The next one was smaller, it had 1/8 inch balls in it. Almost right, but too small. Finally, on the third try, I cut open the third perfectly good bearing to get a set of 5/32 inch balls. The control is restored to normal and I have several different sizes of loose ball bearings. After doing all of this, I began to feel like Goldilocks and the Three Bears (too large, too small, ... ahhh, just right) Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org --=====================_15609178==_.ALT-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 20:03:24 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> Making a mistake Message-ID: Don, You are not the first to learn that lesson..... beware; most of the vernier, and some of the plain ole push to release have little balls in them. So disassemble carefully.... And like I said, you ain't the first.... so don't feel bad. Wish you had been able to find the old one.... Keep on keeping on... Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org http://jerrymahurin.com On Sun, 09 Jun 2002 19:42:44 -0400 Donald Reid wrote: >I have a story to tell about my latest work on the >project. > >I have been installing engine components and controls. I >am using a vernier control, it will turn for fine >adjustment and when you push the central button, the >control can be moved rapidly in either direction. Pretty >standard stuff for a certified aircraft. > >After I measured the mixture control cable for the >correct length, I removed the center wire in order to cut >the sheath to length. I did not realize that there was a >small ball in the shaft of the control wire. Naturally >the ball got lost somewhere in the shop. I then needed >to find a 5/32 inch diameter ball bearing in order to >replace it. > >After scrounging around the shop, I found one 3/16 inch >bearing. Too large. The next step was to pull out a box >of old bearing, take one apart, and find a ball the >correct size. The first one that I tried had 1/4 inch >balls. Again, too large. The next one was smaller, it >had 1/8 inch balls in it. Almost right, but too small. > Finally, on the third try, I cut open the third >perfectly good bearing to get a set of 5/32 inch balls. > The control is restored to normal and I have several >different sizes of loose ball bearings. > >After doing all of this, I began to feel like Goldilocks >and the Three Bears (too large, too small, ... ahhh, just >right) > > > >Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com >Bumpass, Va > >Visit my web sites at: >KR2XL construction: >http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm >Aviation Surplus: >http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm >EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org >Ultralights: http://usua250.org >VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org http://jerrymahurin.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 19:02:23 -0500 To: Donald Reid ,krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Making a mistake Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020609190223.00794250@mail.midwest.net> >After I measured the mixture control cable for the correct length, I >removed the center wire in order to cut the sheath to length. I did not >realize that there was a small ball in the shaft of the control >wire. Naturally the ball got lost somewhere in the shop. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ A "locking" mixture control has the same little ball for a locking feature. Don't ask me how I know. I lost mine in the aircraft for the very same reason, cutting the outer sheath to length. I was lucky enough to find mine back with a magnet. My wife walked by and asked me what I was doing and I replied " well dear, I'm looking for my.........,"! (Well, you get the idea) :-) Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 20:40:21 -0700 To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> Making a mistake Message-ID: I did the same thing while Jerry was trying to warn me. I finally found it by sweeping the floor and looking for something rolling around. Like Jerry says, you are not alone. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242 at: WWW.EAA242.ORG -----Original Message----- From: Donald Reid [mailto:donreid@erols.com] Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 4:43 PM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> Making a mistake I have a story to tell about my latest work on the project. I have been installing engine components and controls. I am using a vernier control, it will turn for fine adjustment and when you push the central button, the control can be moved rapidly in either direction. Pretty standard stuff for a certified aircraft. After I measured the mixture control cable for the correct length, I removed the center wire in order to cut the sheath to length. I did not realize that there was a small ball in the shaft of the control wire. Naturally the ball got lost somewhere in the shop. I then needed to find a 5/32 inch diameter ball bearing in order to replace it. After scrounging around the shop, I found one 3/16 inch bearing. Too large. The next step was to pull out a box of old bearing, take one apart, and find a ball the correct size. The first one that I tried had 1/4 inch balls. Again, too large. The next one was smaller, it had 1/8 inch balls in it. Almost right, but too small. Finally, on the third try, I cut open the third perfectly good bearing to get a set of 5/32 inch balls. The control is restored to normal and I have several different sizes of loose ball bearings. After doing all of this, I began to feel like Goldilocks and the Three Bears (too large, too small, ... ahhh, just right) Don Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 21:26:30 -0400 To: danrh@att.net From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Making a mistake Message-ID: <20020609.212906.-294363.0.virgnvs@juno.com> When looking for a small item on the floor, use a bright flashlight to cause a shadow. Virg On Sun, 9 Jun 2002 20:40:21 -0700 "Daniel Heath" writes: > I did the same thing while Jerry was trying to warn me. I finally > found it > by sweeping the floor and looking for something rolling around. > > Like Jerry says, you are not alone. > > Daniel R. Heath > > See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org > > See our EAA Chapter 242 at: WWW.EAA242.ORG > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Donald Reid [mailto:donreid@erols.com] > Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 4:43 PM > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> Making a mistake > > > I have a story to tell about my latest work on the project. > > I have been installing engine components and controls. I am using > a > vernier control, it will turn for fine adjustment and when you push > the > central button, the control can be moved rapidly in either > direction. Pretty standard stuff for a certified aircraft. > > After I measured the mixture control cable for the correct length, > I > removed the center wire in order to cut the sheath to length. I did > not > realize that there was a small ball in the shaft of the control > wire. Naturally the ball got lost somewhere in the shop. I then > needed to > find a 5/32 inch diameter ball bearing in order to replace it. > > After scrounging around the shop, I found one 3/16 inch bearing. > Too > large. The next step was to pull out a box of old bearing, take one > apart, > and find a ball the correct size. The first one that I tried had > 1/4 inch > balls. Again, too large. The next one was smaller, it had 1/8 inch > balls > in it. Almost right, but too small. Finally, on the third try, I > cut open > the third perfectly good bearing to get a set of 5/32 inch balls. > The > control is restored to normal and I have several different sizes of > loose > ball bearings. > > After doing all of this, I began to feel like Goldilocks and the > Three > Bears (too large, too small, ... ahhh, just right) > > > > on Reid mailto:donreid@erols.com > Bumpass, Va > > Visit my web sites at: > KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm > Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm > EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org > Ultralights: http://usua250.org > VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 21:11:46 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Glass work, Glass work!! Message-ID: Well, I certainly am glad Don and Larry have found their lost balls"-) Now onto........................KR stuff sort of. I know it's not Friday but my wings are due to be delivered this Friday so I'll probably be too busy doing inventory to post anything.......yea, right. Here is a pic of my left elevator fiberglass tip. I was going to wait to do all the fiberglass work at one time but I've been tapping my foot waiting on my wings (my fault) for far too long. Most RV guys hate this work, it was old hat to me. http://rvflying.tripod.com//sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/glass.jpg That's Super Fil and one sanding. I'll finish sanding tomorrow and install (can't fabicate cause they are already made) the right one tomorrow. Glad I don't have to find my ball with a magnet. Dana Overall Richmond, KY 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host http://rvflying.tripod.com _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:06:56 -0400 To: From: Subject: Tailspring -tempering metal Message-ID: <001d01c2107f$b43728c0$c53dd6d1@h1x1g0> ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C2105E.2B58B800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is there any way to temper a plain piece of 1/8 steel 2.5 inches wide = into a spring plate for the tailwheel? I plan to use two or three such = plates in a staggered fashion but the plain steel is too easy to bend. = Local sheet metal shop wants me to pay for a 4' x 8' piece - Any other = options out there? ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01C2105E.2B58B800-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 21:23:22 -0400 To: From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> Tailspring -tempering metal Message-ID: Try an automotive 'spring' shop. If they don't have smething, they may be able to do the tempering for you. Another place to look, is the local junk yard on some lightweight imports. Some of them had a single leaf spring in the rear..... On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:06:56 -0400 wrote: >Is there any way to temper a plain piece of 1/8 steel 2.5 >inches wide into a spring plate for the tailwheel? I >plan to use two or three such plates in a staggered >fashion but the plain steel is too easy to bend. Local >sheet metal shop wants me to pay for a 4' x 8' piece - >Any other options out there? > Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org http://jerrymahurin.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 21:28:54 -0400 To: clappw@bellsouth.net From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Tailspring -tempering metal Message-ID: <20020609.212906.-294363.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Try the spring fro, the back of an office chair, Virg On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:06:56 -0400 writes: > Is there any way to temper a plain piece of 1/8 steel 2.5 inches wide > into a spring plate for the tailwheel? I plan to use two or three > such plates in a staggered fashion but the plain steel is too easy > to bend. Local sheet metal shop wants me to pay for a 4' x 8' piece > - Any other options out there? > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 00:02:56 -0700 To: clappw@bellsouth.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Jan Laan Subject: Re: KR> Tailspring -tempering metal Message-id: <0GXH00LIGA98J6@l-daemon> You can certainly quench and temper a piece of plain construction steel, but it will do absolutely nothing for the mechanical properties, meaning you will never make a serviceable spring out of it. Spring steel has a carbon content from .5 to .9 percent depending on thickness and other alloying elements present. Plain construction steel has carbon content lower than .3 percent and insufficient alloying elements to make it hardenable. Although there are Q&T construction steels with lower than .3 % carbon; these are micro-alloyed steels like USS T1 or HY 80 that are not easily available in small quantity and would not make good springs unless you were to cold work them in addition to the Q&T treatment. Follow Jerry's advice and find a piece of spring steel. And don't consider doing any welding to it in whatever form. Jan >Is there any way to temper a plain piece of 1/8 steel 2.5 inches wide into a spring plate for the tailwheel? I plan to use two or three such plates in a staggered fashion but the plain steel is too easy to bend. Local sheet metal shop wants me to pay for a 4' x 8' piece - Any other options out there? > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 06:42:08 -0700 To: "Jerry Mahurin" , From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> Tailspring -tempering metal Message-ID: Go to the junk yard and buy a piece of leaf spring from a car and cut it to fit. Will cost you almost nothing. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242 at: WWW.EAA242.ORG -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Mahurin [mailto:jerrymahurin@charter.net] Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 6:23 PM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Tailspring -tempering metal Try an automotive 'spring' shop. If they don't have smething, they may be able to do the tempering for you. Another place to look, is the local junk yard on some lightweight imports. Some of them had a single leaf spring in the rear..... On Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:06:56 -0400 wrote: >Is there any way to temper a plain piece of 1/8 steel 2.5 >inches wide into a spring plate for the tailwheel? I >plan to use two or three such plates in a staggered >fashion but the plain steel is too easy to bend. Local >sheet metal shop wants me to pay for a 4' x 8' piece - >Any other options out there? > Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org http://jerrymahurin.com --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2002 21:52:53 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "ace nunye" Subject: RE: tailspring Message-ID: I am using fiberglass springs , layered probably 4 or 5 pieces, however I have been eying my dads compuond bow one'a the ends of his bow looks awfully tempting. _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 07:35:43 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Tailspring Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020610073543.008b0100@mail.midwest.net> >>Is there any way to temper a plain piece of 1/8 steel 2.5 inches wide into >a spring plate for the tailwheel? +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= I found a leaf spring in the loft of a blacksmith shop that came from a 1920 era (?) automobile, the type that went from side to side, not front to back on each wheel. It was about 48 inches long, 1.75 inches wide and about 1/4 inch thick. I cut out a length I needed, cold bent the spring in a vise (per Tony Bingalis) and "dressed" the end to 1.5 inches to fit the tailwheel. I don't recall having any trouble drilling it, just use a low rpm in the drill press. If it is not quite strong enough I may do a fiberglass wrap but for now it looks to be just right. There are probably many other leaf springs in the junk yard that would work. Look at different size/weight auto's for the size you need. The lesson here is to keep the project from turning into brain surgery. :-) Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 21:49:40 -0500 To: From: "Rex Ellington" Subject: Assistance please Message-ID: <036901c21029$78514210$104fcb43@D6R1QJ11> ------=_NextPart_000_0366_01C20FFF.8E80D480 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Good Monday to all: Ten days ago, my Gateway lookalike cratered so badly that Windows = wouldn't even load. Naturally, I lost all my bookmarks until I pull the old hard drive and = have someone scan it. Now, I am getting a new computer started up and need help on several = items. No. 1. Some time ago, some krnetter posted an email about help on = setting up websites. I need it badly to get word out on my book, since I am going to = have to pay for printing it myself. No. 2. The day before the crash, I had just opened up a site instructing = on html for web pages. If any of you have seen it, please give me an address. No. 3. Some months ago, I had contact with a person (Oregon, I believe) = on skinning his horiz. stab with plywood. He even sent me a picture, but I don't have his = address. If anyone knows a contact for him, please let me know. Soon, I will log in as probably the oldest dummy - Bought my wood kit = from Mrs. Rand in 1975 Mucho gracias Rex T. Ellington Norman, Ok ------=_NextPart_000_0366_01C20FFF.8E80D480-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 19:57:54 -0700 (PDT) To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: Rick Wilson Subject: tailwheel tempering material Message-ID: <20020610025754.18016.qmail@web21205.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Another good place to find tempered springs is on lawn chairs. There is one type chair that has tempered springs under them for legs. The legs are about 1-1/2" wide, and you can cut out a piece as long as 12" or more. The kind I am talking about is the spring chairs that come with some wrought iron furniture sets. Thanks, Rick Wilson. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 08:46:07 +0200 To: "KR Builders List (E-mail)" From: "Livingstone, Danny (DJ)" Subject: Fuel tank Message-ID: Hello Fellow builders and pilots Advice is needed. I scrapped my aluminum fuel tank due to weight and I am in the process of constructing a fuel tank out of epoxy type resin (not polyester) . Has any one used this for fuel tank construction? Any advice/recommendations on how to prevent leaks. I have sample of cured flox laying in acetone in a bottle to see what the effects it will have. Thanks Danny Livingstone Sasolburg South Africa ********************************************************************** This e-mail and its attachments, if any, are intended only for use by the named addressee(s) and may contain information that is legally privileged, confidential, or both. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail, you are strictly prohibited from disseminating, distributing or copying this email and its attachments, if any. If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender and permanently delete the original and any copies of this e-mail, its attachments, and any printed copies of any of them. ********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:25:42 -0400 To: From: "Audrey and Harold Woods" Subject: tail spring. Message-ID: <004601c21082$523cbba0$b0046418@baol.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C21060.CAAC75C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I used two leaves out of the Old Toyota (rear spring). Right size = ,flexibility, length and especially price. Harold Woods --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/19/02 ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C21060.CAAC75C0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:40:09 -0400 To: From: "Audrey and Harold Woods" Subject: gas tanks Message-ID: <007b01c21084$56f94760$b0046418@baol.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01C21062.CF93BB00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Danny, the boat builders have been building epoxy gas tanks for years. = Check out the Gougeon Brothers. (spelling may not be quite right). They = fibreglass on plywood. Many KR builders fibreglass on foam (bothsides). = A wellmixed epoxy liberally applied over floxed rounded corners will not = leak. But you must test to be sure. You may find that the aluminum tank = is lighter.Harold Woods. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/19/02 ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01C21062.CF93BB00-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 08:46:10 -0700 To: From: "bstarrs" Subject: Fw: KR> gas tanks Message-ID: <005b01c21095$f2656ce0$9200a8c0@bstarrs> Without a doubt the aluminum is lighter ----- Original Message ----- From: "Audrey and Harold Woods" To: Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 6:40 AM Subject: KR> gas tanks Danny, the boat builders have been building epoxy gas tanks for years. Check out the Gougeon Brothers. (spelling may not be quite right). They fibreglass on plywood. Many KR builders fibreglass on foam (bothsides). A wellmixed epoxy liberally applied over floxed rounded corners will not leak. But you must test to be sure. You may find that the aluminum tank is lighter.Harold Woods. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/19/02 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:51:57 -0400 To: From: "Audrey and Harold Woods" Subject: tail spring tempering. Message-ID: <008801c21085$fd08c3a0$b0046418@baol.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0085_01C21064.75C4C900 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My friend built a Jodel D-11 . He took great pains with the tail = spring and its tempering. During test flying he set it down very hard, = tail first. The spring broke in 5 places like glass. I carried the tail = while he taxied off the runway. We went to a auto junk dealer and told = him we wanted a spring so long and so wide. He grabbed an auto spring = and the oxy/acet. torch. How long? Cut. What shape? The spring was in = the vice ,the torch made it red hot, he pulled on the other end until we = said stop. Two holes were neaded, the torch spat the holes out quick as = a wink.. My friend said do you think that it will last long enough to = get it back to the hanger. The man said "that spring is as good now as = it ever was" He was right . The spring fit perfectly, had the right = shape and years later was still surviving many a challenging landing.So = much for theory, the proof is in the pudding. Harold Woods. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/19/02 ------=_NextPart_000_0085_01C21064.75C4C900-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 10:34:18 -0400 To: ejanssen@chipsnet.com, rwdw2002@yahoo.com, KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: "Jeff York" Subject: Re: KR> flying experience Message-ID: For what its worth. I have some time in a Grumman Tiger ( but it's been a few years) and I felt the simularities were that I had the same problem with both Tiger and KR-2 Tricycle. Getting them to slow down, mild porpoising i.e. I was either gaining airspeed or climbing. What I mean is that if I pulled the nose up to slow down... you get the idea. I do have a friend who is a professional pilot and owns a Yankee and has flow my KR-2. I can ask him for details but after he flew the KR he told me he felt it was quite simular to his Yankee. Like I said.. For what it's worth. Also I will qualify this by stating that I am having some problems with my elevator trim on the KR-2. I think this is adding to my elevator sensitivty problems. There is a liitle more to that story. I have been working to fix this but don't have it quite done yet. The wife is pregnant and due anytime now, so I haven't been able to work on it much lately. >From: ejanssen@chipsnet.com (Ed Janssen) >To: "Rick Wilson" , >Subject: Re: KR> flying experience >Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2002 08:39:39 -0500 > >Rick, > >Not a dumb question. Way , way back in my earlier KR flying experiences, I >was advised to get some time in a Yankee, which many flyers thought was the >best production aircraft to get some transition time in before flying the >KR. It was supposed to be more "responsive" than say a Cherokee. The >Cheetah must be similar. I never did get to fly a Yankee. I did have >nearly a hundred hours in a '39 T-Craft which helped with the tailwheel >thing. Then, I just did almost 10 hours of taxiing before I flew the KR-1 >for the first time. Except for some mild porpoising on my first takeoff, >everything went real well. > >Ed > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Rick Wilson" >To: >Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 7:49 AM >Subject: KR> flying experience > > > > Hi, This probably sounds like a dumb question, but I > > would like to ask if anyone has any experience in a > > grumman AA5A cheetah and could tell me if the kr2 > > flies anything like the grumman. I learned to fly in a > > cheetah which is a fairly slippery little airplane > > itself. Cruises around 140, takes off around 55-60, > > and lands about 60-65. It is fairly responsive on the > > controls. If anyone has flown a cheetah and a kr2, I > > would appreciate your comments on the differences or > > similarities, Thanks, Rick Wilson. > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup > > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > > > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 11:01:59 -0500 To: "KR Builders List \(E-mail\)" From: "Larry A. Capps" Cc: "'Jeff York'" Subject: flying experience Message-ID: <000b01c21098$27629240$0600a8c0@schpankme> Relief for KR Pitch Sensitivity std KR. \ < - current attach point | < - anti-sensitivity attach point | o | | < - anti-sensitivity attach point \ < - current attach point Diagram 1. Elevator Bell Crank Page 59, 71 of RR manual Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL mailto:lacapps@attbi.com -----Original Message----- For what its worth. I have some time in a Grumman Tiger I felt the simularities I had the same problem with both Tiger and KR-2 Tricycle. I was either gaining airspeed or climbing. I mean is that if I pulled the nose up to slow down... you get the idea. I do have a friend who is a professional pilot and owns a Yankee I can ask him for details I said.. For what it's worth. I will qualify this by stating I am having some problems with my elevator trim on the KR-2. I think this is adding to my elevator sensitivty problems. I have been working to fix this but don't have it quite done yet. I haven't been able to work on it much lately. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 09:08:12 -0700 To: "'lacapps@attbi.com'" , "'KRnet'" From: "Seifert, Richard E" Subject: RE: KR> flying experience Message-ID: <9BA7A06DA8127B4B925954F3F8705D349F8340@XCH-SW-09.sw.nos.boeing.com> This will make the pitch less sensitive, but be careful to check elevator travel as it will reduce that also. Another method is to start out flying with a taller stick then cut it down as you gain confidence. -----Original Message----- From: Larry A. Capps [mailto:lacapps@attbi.com] Sent: Monday, June 10, 2002 9:02 AM To: KR Builders List (E-mail) Cc: 'Jeff York' Subject: KR> flying experience Relief for KR Pitch Sensitivity std KR. \ < - current attach point | < - anti-sensitivity attach point | o | | < - anti-sensitivity attach point \ < - current attach point Diagram 1. Elevator Bell Crank Page 59, 71 of RR manual Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL mailto:lacapps@attbi.com -----Original Message----- For what its worth. I have some time in a Grumman Tiger I felt the simularities I had the same problem with both Tiger and KR-2 Tricycle. I was either gaining airspeed or climbing. I mean is that if I pulled the nose up to slow down... you get the idea. I do have a friend who is a professional pilot and owns a Yankee I can ask him for details I said.. For what it's worth. I will qualify this by stating I am having some problems with my elevator trim on the KR-2. I think this is adding to my elevator sensitivty problems. I have been working to fix this but don't have it quite done yet. I haven't been able to work on it much lately. --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 11:03:11 -0700 To: From: "jim @ synergy design" Subject: Pitch sensativity Message-ID: <003f01c210a9$1a0be5e0$0101a8c0@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C2106E.69301140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable If you move the holes closer together at the elev., it will get MORE = sensative(shorter arm for same ammount of linear travel=3D more angular = motion. ) I have been experimenting with a stick that has a sliding = mount for the pushrod attach point(I have a pushrod from stick to crank = on aft side of rear spar) A simple lever will let me pick the = sensativity that I need( fine tuning too) It can all be done at the = stick. If anyones interested, e-mail me. Jim ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01C2106E.69301140-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2002 12:05:49 -0500 To: "KR Builders List \(E-mail\)" From: "Larry A. Capps" Subject: Pitch sensitivity Message-ID: <001701c210a1$12687590$0600a8c0@schpankme> I would have to disagree with the below statement**, as it relates the Elevator Bell Crank. Note: The longer the lever, the greater the mechanical advantage. In order to reduce the "throw" one would move the attach point down the Bell Crank (towards it's center / pivot point) Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL mailto:lacapps@attbi.com -----Original Message----- ** If you move the holes closer together at the elev., it will get MORE sensative(shorter arm for same ammount of linear travel= more angular motion. ) ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************