From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 19 Jun 2002 22:36:40 -0000 Issue 456 Date: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 3:37 PM krnet Digest 19 Jun 2002 22:36:40 -0000 Issue 456 Topics (messages 10910 through 10939): canopy 10910 by: rfarmer 10911 by: rfarmer Re: Fiberglass on fuselage 10912 by: Daniel Heath 10914 by: Larry A. Capps 10919 by: Lynn Hyder 10920 by: larry flesner 10922 by: Phillip Matheson 10923 by: Larry A. Capps 10929 by: Jerry Mahurin 10930 by: virgnvs.juno.com 10932 by: Dana Overall Re: building antenna 10913 by: Eduardo José Jankosz 10915 by: Rick Wilson 10916 by: Mark Langford 10917 by: Rick Wilson 10918 by: Larry A. Capps Fiberglass on the fuselage plywood 10921 by: JIM VANCE Ailerons balance horns and weights, and other photos 10924 by: Serge F. VIDAL 10936 by: bstarrs Re: antenna and KX99 10925 by: Serge F. VIDAL Re: wingtip and strobes 10926 by: Serge F. VIDAL Re: kr with I F R-Rant:-) 10927 by: Serge F. VIDAL Re: 2500cc VW based 10928 by: Serge F. VIDAL 10934 by: Tom 10935 by: Ron Eason 10937 by: asavant.notes.state.ne.us Re: antenna 10931 by: virgnvs.juno.com Try again. Ant. Location and Thank you! 10933 by: Conley, Paul W. KR VW2500 10938 by: Lentz Henderson Re: Epoxy on fuselage 10939 by: Phillip Matheson Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 14:07:29 -0400 To: "krnet" From: "rfarmer" Subject: canopy Message-ID: <001901c216f3$0341c0a0$495b62d8@oemcomputer> ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C216D1.7B55ED40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Well I put doors on my canopy today (in the solid modeling program that = is). Wish it looked like that in the real world. I am going out to the = shop to start the form on which the canopy will be built. I am making = the whole thing oversized. Taller & wider than I needed and will trim to = fit at assembly. The width will be about 46" and I will cut out a = section in the middle and pull the sides in to fit my KR2. The height I = will cut down after my seats are done & I can judge how much head room = is needed. The length is about 48" and will be part of the turtle deck. = This should give me a good transition from the canopy profile to the = turtle deck & will leave about 48" to finish the turtle deck. Here is a link to the solid model of my canopy, have a look and let me = know what you think. http://www.foamhead.com/Builders%20pages/KR2%20Bob%20Farmer.html Bob Farmer rfarmer@naxs.net or foamhead@ls.net=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01C216D1.7B55ED40-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 15:45:13 -0400 To: "krnet" From: "Bob Farmer" Subject: Re: KR> canopy Message-ID: <001501c21700$ab334ce0$7b5b62d8@oemcomputer> All options are still open Thanks Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Mahurin" To: "rfarmer" Cc: "Daniel Heath" ; "HEATH, DANIEL R" Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 3:29 PM Subject: Re: KR> canopy > Bob, > > It sure looks good on paper (or screen). Hope it works > out for you. Looks like you are opening two doors... We > are opening only one on the pilots side. By doing only > one door and hinging it as far back as you can, you get a > larger opening for us old geezers to get in and out of.... > > Keep on keeping on, > > Jerry Mahurin > Lugoff, SC > http://kr-builder.org > http://jerrymahurin.com > > > On Tue, 18 Jun 2002 14:07:29 -0400 > "rfarmer" wrote: > >Well I put doors on my canopy today (in the solid > >modeling program that is). Wish it looked like that in > >the real world. I am going out to the shop to start the > >form on which the canopy will be built. I am making the > >whole thing oversized. Taller & wider than I needed and > >will trim to fit at assembly. The width will be about 46" > >and I will cut out a section in the middle and pull the > >sides in to fit my KR2. The height I will cut down after > >my seats are done & I can judge how much head room is > >needed. The length is about 48" and will be part of the > >turtle deck. This should give me a good transition from > >the canopy profile to the turtle deck & will leave about > >48" to finish the turtle deck. > > > >Here is a link to the solid model of my canopy, have a > >look and let me know what you think. > > > >http://www.foamhead.com/Builders%20pages/KR2%20Bob%20Farmer.html > > > >Bob Farmer > > > >rfarmer@naxs.net or foamhead@ls.net > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 16:52:16 -0700 To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage Message-ID: Opinion... Too much weight, don't see any advantage, glass harder to finish than the wood. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG -----Original Message----- From: JIM VANCE [mailto:VANCE@CLAFLINWILDCATS.COM] Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 6:20 AM To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG Subject: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage Does the advantages of covering the plywood part of the fuselage with light fiberglass outweigh the weight penalty. It would give additional support at the corners and would give a consistent surface for finishing. Opinions? Experiences? Jim Vance Vance@ClaflinWildcats.com --- Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 16:34:25 -0500 To: From: "Larry A. Capps" Subject: Fiberglass on fuselage Message-ID: <004601c2170f$eba0afc0$0600a8c0@schpankme> Yes, plywood structural skins of the KR would benefit greatly from a light weight layer of fiberglass and epoxy. If I may, let me quote A. Strojnik from his book Laminar Aircraft Structures (LAS pg 153, 1st Para) " a thin layer of fiberglass applied over plywood and bonded with epoxy, is almost a miracle worker. If the plywood was installed while its moister content was within those 10% - 15%, the fiberglass cover makes it more durable than aluminum or steel. There are fiberglass fabrics that weigh only a few oz. per square yard and are only a few mils thick. They will increase the aircraft weight by only a few pounds. The fiberglass fabric transforms the aircraft into a fiberglass structure - as far as weather stability is concerned. The appearance improves. The surface smoothness improves." - Alex Strojnik (thank you Professor) Regards, Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL mailto:lacapps@attbi.com -----Original Message----- Does the advantages of covering the plywood part of the fuselage with light fiberglass ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 16:17:50 -0700 To: VANCE@CLAFLINWILDCATS.COM, KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: "Lynn Hyder" Subject: Re: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage Message-ID: I fiberglassed my fuselage and wouldn't consider doing it any other way. N37LH empty weight 550 lbs with a Lyc 0-235. Lynn Hyder >From: "JIM VANCE" >To: >Subject: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage >Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:19:39 -0500 > >Does the advantages of covering the plywood part of the fuselage with light >fiberglass outweigh the weight penalty. It would give additional support >at the corners and would give a consistent surface for finishing. > >Opinions? Experiences? > > Jim Vance > Vance@ClaflinWildcats.com _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 18:39:32 -0500 To: From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020618183932.008d15f0@mail.midwest.net> >Yes, plywood structural skins of the KR would benefit greatly from a light >weight layer of fiberglass and epoxy. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= Tony Bingelis seconds (or firsts) that opinion in one of his books. I cover my wings and tail surfaces with the 1.45 oz glass while the layup was still wet. I also covered all fuselage plywood with same material. The weave is so fine you can probably start with primer and not use any fill. I'll know in the next month or two. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 13:52:55 +1000 To: From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage Message-ID: <005001c21744$d49bf200$1097dccb@barry> Larry, Question, You talk about F/Gass cloth and Epoxy,on the fuse, What is the difference in using Epoxy resin or F/Glass resin on the plywood ????? Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry A. Capps" To: Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 7:34 AM Subject: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage > Yes, plywood structural skins of the KR would benefit greatly from a light > weight layer of fiberglass and epoxy. > > If I may, let me quote A. Strojnik from his book Laminar Aircraft Structures > (LAS pg 153, 1st Para) > > " a thin layer of fiberglass applied over plywood and bonded with epoxy, is > almost a miracle worker. If the plywood was installed while its moister > content was within those 10% - 15%, the fiberglass cover makes it more > durable than aluminum or steel. There are fiberglass fabrics that weigh > only a few oz. per square yard and are only a few mils thick. They will > increase the aircraft weight by only a few pounds. The fiberglass fabric > transforms the aircraft into a fiberglass structure - as far as weather > stability is concerned. The appearance improves. The surface smoothness > improves." - Alex Strojnik (thank you Professor) > > Regards, > > Larry A. Capps > Naperville, IL > mailto:lacapps@attbi.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > Does the advantages of covering the plywood part of the fuselage with light > fiberglass > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 23:58:46 -0500 To: From: "Larry A. Capps" Subject: Fiberglass on fuselage Message-ID: <005a01c2174d$febb17b0$0600a8c0@schpankme> If I understand the question** below - Can I use Polyester Resin (F/Glass) in place of Epoxy to encapsulate the plywood ? The answer to your question is "NO", do not use Polyester resin in the building of your KR project. But why you silly boy, I hear a few disgruntled bystanders yell out, WHY? Forgetting for a moment the fact that Polyester resin has a t r e m e n d o u s shrinkage p r o b l e m, suffers from blistering, its greatest flaw is that its not 100% waterproof, and this will result in allowing water to pass through to your wood structure, and cause rot. The boat building industry has proven this point, and unfortunately the boat buying public of 25 years ago is paying for their lack of design knowledge. Regards, Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL mailto:lacapps@attbi.com -----Original Message----- Question, ** What is the difference in using Epoxy resin or F/Glass resin on the plywood ????? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 08:28:10 -0400 To: , From: "Jerry Mahurin" Subject: Re: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage Message-ID: Larry, et al, Sounds good except for one line...."They will increase the aircraft weight by only a few pounds." I don't think the overkill in strength, etc would be worth the weight penalty. And the finish applied to the wood should take care of the 'weathering' problem..... 'Fraid I'll have to vote 'no' on the extra layer of glass... Just my $.02 worth. Keep on keeping on, Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org http://jerrymahurin.com On Tue, 18 Jun 2002 16:34:25 -0500 "Larry A. Capps" wrote: >Yes, plywood structural skins of the KR would benefit >greatly from a light >weight layer of fiberglass and epoxy. > >If I may, let me quote A. Strojnik from his book Laminar >Aircraft Structures >(LAS pg 153, 1st Para) > >" a thin layer of fiberglass applied over plywood and >bonded with epoxy, is >almost a miracle worker. If the plywood was installed >while its moister >content was within those 10% - 15%, the fiberglass cover >makes it more >durable than aluminum or steel. There are fiberglass >fabrics that weigh >only a few oz. per square yard and are only a few mils >thick. They will >increase the aircraft weight by only a few pounds. The >fiberglass fabric >transforms the aircraft into a fiberglass structure - as >far as weather >stability is concerned. The appearance improves. The >surface smoothness >improves." - Alex Strojnik (thank you Professor) > >Regards, > >Larry A. Capps >Naperville, IL >mailto:lacapps@attbi.com > > > >-----Original Message----- >Does the advantages of covering the plywood part of the >fuselage with light >fiberglass > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT >"reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: >krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: >krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at >http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > Jerry Mahurin Lugoff, SC http://kr-builder.org http://jerrymahurin.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:04:00 -0400 To: VANCE@CLAFLINWILDCATS.COM From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG Subject: Re: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage Message-ID: <20020619.091543.-434391.2.virgnvs@juno.com> NOT necessary, don't bother, Virg On Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:19:39 -0500 "JIM VANCE" writes: > Does the advantages of covering the plywood part of the fuselage with > light fiberglass outweigh the weight penalty. It would give > additional support at the corners and would give a consistent > surface for finishing. > > Opinions? Experiences? > > Jim Vance > Vance@ClaflinWildcats.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 10:14:24 -0400 To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage Message-ID: More modern building techniques do recommend the application of a very thin glass cloth over wood structures. The strength gain on a KR would be very minimal but the surface texture for the applying of various finish products would undeniably be better than over dry wood. Food for thought.........if you start with a very non porous finish, you just may end up with less paint applied, thereby no weight gain. The weight gain from this silk cloth would be next to nothing. Dana Overall Richmond, KY 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host http://rvflying.tripod.com >From: "Jerry Mahurin" >To: , >Subject: Re: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage >Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 08:28:10 -0400 > >Larry, et al, > >Sounds good except for one line...."They will >increase the aircraft weight by only a few pounds." I don't think the >overkill in strength, etc would be worth the weight penalty. And the >finish applied to the wood should take care of the 'weathering' >problem..... > >'Fraid I'll have to vote 'no' on the extra layer of glass... > >Just my $.02 worth. Keep on keeping on, > >Jerry Mahurin >Lugoff, SC >http://kr-builder.org >http://jerrymahurin.com > > >On Tue, 18 Jun 2002 16:34:25 -0500 > "Larry A. Capps" wrote: >>Yes, plywood structural skins of the KR would benefit greatly from a light >>weight layer of fiberglass and epoxy. >> >>If I may, let me quote A. Strojnik from his book Laminar Aircraft >>Structures >>(LAS pg 153, 1st Para) >> >>" a thin layer of fiberglass applied over plywood and bonded with epoxy, >>is >>almost a miracle worker. If the plywood was installed while its moister >>content was within those 10% - 15%, the fiberglass cover makes it more >>durable than aluminum or steel. There are fiberglass fabrics that weigh >>only a few oz. per square yard and are only a few mils thick. They will >>increase the aircraft weight by only a few pounds. The fiberglass fabric >>transforms the aircraft into a fiberglass structure - as far as weather >>stability is concerned. The appearance improves. The surface smoothness >>improves." - Alex Strojnik (thank you Professor) >> >>Regards, >> >>Larry A. Capps >>Naperville, IL >>mailto:lacapps@attbi.com >> >> >> >>-----Original Message----- >>Does the advantages of covering the plywood part of the fuselage with >>light >>fiberglass >> >> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------- >>To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" >> >>To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional >>commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> >>See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ and at >>http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones >> > >Jerry Mahurin >Lugoff, SC >http://kr-builder.org >http://jerrymahurin.com > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional >commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ and at >http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 18:12:28 -0300 To: "Rick Wilson" , From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Eduardo_Jos=E9_Jankosz?=" Subject: Re: KR> building antenna Message-Id: <200206182112.g5ILCqi1011126@cwbone.bsi.com.br> Hello all! In Kitplanes, Dec/99, Jim Weir jim@rst-engr.com show how build a VHF nav antenna! J. Weir has been publishing articles on plastic airplane antennas for more than 20 years! Regards! Eduardo José Jankosz jankosz@bsi.com.br http://www.bsi.com.br/cbcb http://br.groups.yahoo.com/group/kr2-brasil Curitiba - PR - BRASIL ---------- > De: Rick Wilson > Para: KRNET@mailinglists.org > Assunto: KR> building antenna > Data: Segunda-feira, 17 de Junho de 2002 22:36 > > Hello, I have decided to build an antenna like the one > outlined in the kr2 manual. My question is can > aluminum strips .010 thick or copper strips of about > the same thickness be used instead of foil strips as > it calls for in the manual? Or does anyone know of a > better antenna to use than this one? (comm antenna > and vor antenna) I will have to use something similar > to this because my airplane is already built and there > was no antenna built in during construction. > Thanks,Rick Wilson. > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup > http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ > and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 14:59:22 -0700 (PDT) To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: Rick Wilson Subject: building antenna Message-ID: <20020618215922.24903.qmail@web21202.mail.yahoo.com> Hi, I looked at Mark's site and the only antenna I saw there is sixty-some-odd inches high. Where would you mount something of that height in a kr2? Unless I'm wrong, I don't think it would work if installed in a horizontal position. Is there an antenna drawing on his site that I'm missing? Thanks, Rick Wilson. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 17:07:23 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> building antenna Message-ID: <004c01c21714$876f2c70$e202a58c@tbekhpjnuqn30g> Rick Wilson wrote: > Hi, I looked at Mark's site and the only antenna I > saw there is sixty-some-odd inches high. Where would > you mount something of that height in a kr2? Unless > I'm wrong, I don't think it would work if installed in > a horizontal position. Is there an antenna drawing on > his site that I'm missing? I'm not sure where you're looking. I don't have any 60 inch long horizontal antennas. Were you looking at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/antennas.html ? Mark Langford mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 15:25:12 -0700 (PDT) To: KRNET@MAILINGLISTS.ORG From: Rick Wilson Subject: building antenna Message-ID: <20020618222512.21467.qmail@web21210.mail.yahoo.com> Mark, I didn't mean the antenna was horizontal, I was only asking if it would work if installed in a horizontal position. I was looking under your project on the krnet site. If you scroll down, there's a diagram of an antenna built out of copper tubing that shows to be approx. 67" or so high on the highest leg. It is built vertically, that's why I said I didn't think it would work in a horizontal position. I apologize, I have since looked at the site you suggested and found what I needed. Sincerely, Rick Wilson. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 17:49:45 -0500 To: From: "Larry A. Capps" Subject: building antenna Message-ID: <004b01c2171a$71c37a60$0600a8c0@schpankme> Below is Jim Weir di-pole antenna dimensions. ------------------------------------ Marker Beacon - 34.3 in. FM Music Radio - 26.2 in. VOR/LOC - 22.8 in. VHF COM - 20.3 in. Amateur 2m - 17.7 in. Glide slope - 7.5 in. ------------------------------------ The Marker Beacon is generally installed along the airplane centerline, they have been installed in the wing, and reportedly work fine. The COM should be vertically oriented. All others antennas should be horizontal oriented. The VOR will be V shaped. Tips of di-pole antennas should be kept away from metal, and away from each other. To make a Transponder antenna, make the radiating rod from an AN-4 bolt, with the head removed. This bolt will be 2.65 inches from the tip to the ground plane, and insulated from the ground plane. Make the ground plane from .062 aluminum, 5.3 inches in diameter (I lost my drawing). Attach the center conductor to the radiating rod, and the co-ax ground to the ground plane. Sources: http://rst-engr.com/ - Jim Weir (RST Engineering) http://fly.hiwaay.net/~langford/antennas.html - Mark Langford (On Line Builders Manual) Regards, Larry A. Capps Naperville, IL mailto:lacapps@attbi.com -----Original Message----- Is there an antenna drawing ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 21:04:44 -0500 To: From: "JIM VANCE" Subject: Fiberglass on the fuselage plywood Message-ID: <004b01c21735$ff2deaa0$37000a0a@oemcomputer> ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C2170B.C538AC60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Many thanks for the several replies to my query. It's great to have a = group of been-there-done-that guys to help me. Jim Vance ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01C2170B.C538AC60-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:35:25 +0200 To: From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: Ailerons balance horns and weights, and other photos Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C21774.A53738A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Long ago, somebody suggested that I send a picture of my ailerons balance weights, which he said were very special. Since I did not build the aircraft, I did not know. Apparently, they are called "dynamic balance", because the weights are shaped as an airfoil. Anyway, at last, I found the time to have the film processed, and the picture is ready. Who wants it? I also have some pictures of my KR2 available for post and/or host. Who wants them? ZS-WEC is a neat little South-African taildragger KR2, that was completed in 1994 by Rob Van der Merwe, of Port Elisabeth, South Africa. I became the delighted owner 18 months ago, and I improved it as much as I could. The interesting parts of the design are: - The pretty neat instrument panel, - The dual electronic ignition VW 2 liter engine with interesting cooling shrouds, - The hand-operated wheel brakes. Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C21774.A53738A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 10:07:49 -0700 To: From: "bstarrs" Subject: Fw: KR> Ailerons balance horns and weights, and other photos Message-ID: <005601c217b3$d7a206a0$9200a8c0@bstarrs> Yes by all means pass the pictures on. Bill Stars ----- Original Message ----- From: "Serge F. VIDAL" To: Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2002 12:35 AM Subject: KR> Ailerons balance horns and weights, and other photos > Long ago, somebody suggested that I send a picture of my ailerons balance > weights, which he said were very special. > Since I did not build the aircraft, I did not know. Apparently, they are > called "dynamic balance", because the weights are shaped as an airfoil. > Anyway, at last, I found the time to have the film processed, and the > picture is ready. Who wants it? > > I also have some pictures of my KR2 available for post and/or host. Who > wants them? > > ZS-WEC is a neat little South-African taildragger KR2, that was completed in > 1994 by Rob Van der Merwe, of Port Elisabeth, South Africa. I became the > delighted owner 18 months ago, and I improved it as much as I could. The > interesting parts of the design are: > > - The pretty neat instrument panel, > - The dual electronic ignition VW 2 liter engine with > interesting cooling shrouds, > - The hand-operated wheel brakes. > > Serge VIDAL > KR2 ZS-WEC > Johannesburg, South Africa > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:35:32 +0200 To: "Mark Jones" , From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: RE: KR> antenna and KX99 Message-ID: Mark, have you got a manual for your KX99? I need to understand how the battery connexions work, and how does the "CHRG" connector work. I am a layman in the radio field, but I overhauled the radio installation of my KR and changed the original plain, commercial coax with a longer, but much, much more expensive military specification one... and my whole radio installation suddenly jumped into another league. Even the Intercom Squelch decided to work better! So, I think there is coax and coax. Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa -----Original Message----- From: Mark Jones [mailto:flykr2s@wi.rr.com] Sent: 17 June, 2002 4:23 AM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> antenna ? I have done this installation and it is a very simple one. The only difference is I did not use the arrow shaft but used a piece of 1/8 x 3/4 spruce to mount my lower antenna leg on. I first applied the copper tape to the piece of wood and then glassed over it leaving about 1" exposed at the top to attach the coax to. The upper leg was taped to the side of the vertical stabilizer and then glassed over. Again leaving 1" exposed at the bottom of the coax connection. The coax I used is RG59U. You simply solder the coax to the two antenna legs. After soldering, I then encased the complete soldered connections in flox to prevent any breaking loose from vibration or whatever. A noise reduction filter (toroid) was attached about two inches away from the soldered connections. The toroid I used was bought at Radio Shack and simply snaps over the coax. The toroid was about 4 or 5 bucks. The coax was then run up the fuselage making sure to keep it away from any electrical wires as much as possible. Just today as I was working on my plane, while listening to the radio, I received transmissions from a jump plane over an airport about 40 or so miles away. I also talked to another plane over East Troy airport which is 28 miles from my house. And remember this was using a King KX-99 handheld with the plane sitting in my driveway. Not too shabby!!!!! Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, June 17, 2002 8:54 AM Subject: KR> antenna ? I would like to add a question the the antenna dilema. I purchased 4 feet of copper foil and an arrow shaft for my antenna construction. Are there any detailed instructions as far as how to go about constructing and installing this thing and how to attach to coax. Also, is cable coax the same as aircraft coax? I'll be ready to glass my horizontal this week and then comes the vertical so I would like to have everything ready by then. BILL --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:35:36 +0200 To: From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: RE: KR> wingtip and strobes Message-ID: I have no intention to fly my KR at night. Too afraid of landing her in the dark. But "just in case", I have fitted a strobe, and will soon fit a landing light too. What I used for a strobe was... a house alarm strobe! Very, very cheap (about $5), self contained, 12V, powerful enough, available in white or red. I belly-mounted it, and so far so good. They are also very compact, and can be made even more so by opening them and separating the PCB from the light bulb. Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:35:38 +0200 To: "Dana Overall" , From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: RE: KR> kr with I F R-Rant:-) Message-ID: Dana, I'm not instrument rated, and will probably never be: does not appeal too much to me. But I'm night rated, which takes 15 hours IF training in this country (some in the sim, some out there). I, too, want to survive if I inadvertently get in the clouds. I think training to do a 180 degrees is a great idea, but this will be very hard to do without a turn coordinator...which I don't have! I therefore train to escape from the bottom, or, worst case scenario, from the top. When flying alone, I use every opportunity to train. This means that whenever I spot a very small cumulus high enough above the ground, I fly through it, and escape in a shallow dive. What is missing, of course, is the turbulences associated with storm clouds, but I am not too much in a hurry to try that. Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa -----Original Message----- From: Dana Overall [mailto:bo124rs@hotmail.com] Sent: 17 June, 2002 1:23 PM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> kr with I F R-Rant:-) I'll chime it here since I have seen only two people comment on this issue. I think three voices are better than two in this regard. I own a Bonanza with autopilot and IFR approach certified GPS. I fly enough IFR to stay current in my regular flying, also. I point this out only as a means of qualifing my comments. The KR is not a good IFR airplane at all. It is far too unforgiving and deviations from intended orientations progress rapidly unless corrected very, very early. You will hear stories from people who say they have punched clouds and "there was this one time". It's somewhere you don't want to be in a KR, unless you are very good and don't spend much time in that element. The best IFR thing you can do in your KR is learn how long it takes you to do a coordinated 180 degree turn. Take another pilot with you and bring along a hood. At some point your passenger (not you) says, "You're in the clouds". Put the hood on, remember it's not your choice when you inadvertantly fly into the clouds. Look at your 180 turn mark and gently roll into a standard rate turn. If you don't have a turn coordintor, this is whatever roll will allow you to progress three degrees per second. When you are trying to figure this out in your KR, use 5 seconds first and figure out the roll rate to get 15 degrees of turn. Roll in and start timing. If you maintain this roll rate (remember altitude also) you will roll out on your reciprical heading in 1 minute. If you are not IFR rated, this will be the longest one minute in your life. Remember, don't panic, you know it is going to take one minute to do the 180 and another bit of time to fly back out of the soup. Practice flying in conditions (simulated) other than the norm. Nothing exciting in life happens during normal conditions, it's the unexpected that grabs you by the bal#s. Off the soap box:-) Dana Overall Richmond, KY 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host http://rvflying.tripod.com _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:35:41 +0200 To: , From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: RE: KR> 2500cc VW based Message-ID: Welcome, Ameet! I'm unfamiliar with .ne.us E-mail addresses. Where do you live? My gut feeling about air cooled VW engines is the more power you get out of it, the less reliable it has to be. Remember, the biggest VW engine, the 2 liter Type 4, was meant for 65hp only... and already was an extension of the 1.7 liter. Rather consider a bigger automotive engine. Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa -----Original Message----- From: asavant@notes.state.ne.us [mailto:asavant@notes.state.ne.us] Sent: 17 June, 2002 3:47 PM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> 2500cc VW based This is my first post on the KR mailing list. I have been impressed by the amount of accumulative knowledge all of you possess. I am still considering which aircraft to build. I might have time and money to build only one in my lifetime and I want it to be everything I want it to be. The KR is a great option. Well that said, let me get to my question. Has anyone got any information on the 2500cc VW based 180HP engine that is advertised at http://www.altimizer.com/specs.html (scroll to the bottom of the page)? If you have no info on the engine, do you know anything about this company? I am sure all of you must be wondering why such a big engine for the KR? Well, I am going through a design exercise for a 180HP cross country plane for the not so rich builder. Some day it might become a reality (it doesn't hurt to dream) and this one engine seems to be the cheapest option there is. All comments are welcome. Thank you. Ameet Savant --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 12:46:23 -0400 To: svidal@icon.co.za, asavant@notes.state.ne.us, krnet@mailinglists.org From: Tom Subject: Re: RE: KR> 2500cc VW based Message-ID: <-858598160.1024505183349.JavaMail.httpd@spnode41> >Welcome, Ameet! I'm unfamiliar with .ne.us E-mail addresses. Where do you >live? > >My gut feeling about air cooled VW engines is the more power you get out of >it, the less reliable it has to be. Remember, the biggest VW engine, the 2 >liter Type 4, was meant for 65hp only... and already was an extension of the >1.7 liter. > >Rather consider a bigger automotive engine. > >Serge VIDAL >KR2 ZS-WEC >Johannesburg, South Africa > Wrong. The 1.7L T4 that came in the 914 was good for 80 HP stock. The 2L stock was good for almost 100 HP. There are many who feel that this engine could have been developed much further. Respectfully, Tom ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 10:03:55 -0700 To: , , , Tom From: "Ron Eason" Subject: Re: RE: KR> 2500cc VW based Message-Id: <200206191003.AA392495236@jrl-engineering.com> Their are some engine shops proto typing [450 HP at 8000 rpm] form 2500 type 4 geometery, different alloy beefed up engine blocks, heads, fuel injection and turbo charged etc. for street machines. [180 hp @ 3000 rpm]. Less than one H.P. per pound at 3000 rpm is not out of the question. They are changing the makeup so much that it would not be called VW. All parts American made and assembled. Alot of development is in the works. Hope they don't run out of money. KRRon ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Tom Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 12:46:23 -0400 > >>Welcome, Ameet! I'm unfamiliar with .ne.us E-mail addresses. Where do you >>live? >> >>My gut feeling about air cooled VW engines is the more power you get out of >>it, the less reliable it has to be. Remember, the biggest VW engine, the 2 >>liter Type 4, was meant for 65hp only... and already was an extension of the >>1.7 liter. >> >>Rather consider a bigger automotive engine. >> >>Serge VIDAL >>KR2 ZS-WEC >>Johannesburg, South Africa >> > > > > >Wrong. The 1.7L T4 that came in the 914 was good for 80 HP stock. The 2L stock >was good for almost 100 HP. There are many who feel that this engine could have >been developed much further. > > >Respectfully, > >Tom > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 12:22:16 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: asavant@notes.state.ne.us Subject: Re: RE: KR> 2500cc VW based Message-ID: So far this is how I understand it: 1) Given enough reininforcements any engine can be reved up to generate more power (in theory of course). 2) To produce maximum thrust at full power your prop tip speed should fall between .88 and .92 mach. 3) Now to reduce the tip speeds of the prop you use a PSRU and bring the rpm down to just enough to be in the max power transfer range. 4) In this case the engine generates 180HP. The PSRU and prop are say 70% efficient (just a number) then we actually get 0.7x180 HP at the prop. Is this correct? Thanks Ameet "Ron Eason" , , ing.com> , Tom cc: 06/19/2002 12:03 Subject: Re: RE: KR> 2500cc VW based PM Please respond to ron Their are some engine shops proto typing [450 HP at 8000 rpm] form 2500 type 4 geometery, different alloy beefed up engine blocks, heads, fuel injection and turbo charged etc. for street machines. [180 hp @ 3000 rpm]. Less than one H.P. per pound at 3000 rpm is not out of the question. They are changing the makeup so much that it would not be called VW. All parts American made and assembled. Alot of development is in the works. Hope they don't run out of money. KRRon ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Tom Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 12:46:23 -0400 > >>Welcome, Ameet! I'm unfamiliar with .ne.us E-mail addresses. Where do you >>live? >> >>My gut feeling about air cooled VW engines is the more power you get out of >>it, the less reliable it has to be. Remember, the biggest VW engine, the 2 >>liter Type 4, was meant for 65hp only... and already was an extension of the >>1.7 liter. >> >>Rather consider a bigger automotive engine. >> >>Serge VIDAL >>KR2 ZS-WEC >>Johannesburg, South Africa >> > > > > >Wrong. The 1.7L T4 that came in the 914 was good for 80 HP stock. The 2L stock >was good for almost 100 HP. There are many who feel that this engine could have >been developed much further. > > >Respectfully, > >Tom > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.escribe.com/aviation/krnet/ >and at http://www.bouyea.net/ for the older ones > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 09:05:35 -0400 To: audreyandharoldwoods@rogers.com From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> antenna Message-ID: <20020619.091543.-434391.3.virgnvs@juno.com> Forward part of stab better, Metal fittings will affect propagation. Put on front and fair it in, Virg On Tue, 18 Jun 2002 10:23:55 -0400 "Audrey and Harold Woods" writes: > I purchased a roll of copper foil of the type used by stained glass > makewrs. It has an adhesive on one side. I had intended to make an > antenna and place it in the vertical stab. I forgot . I now intend > to place it on the back of the vertical stabilizer, in the space > between the rudder and the vert. stab. This may be a good spot for > it. Any comments or suggestions ?. Harold Woods. > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.351 / Virus Database: 197 - Release Date: 4/19/02 > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 10:24:38 -0400 To: "'krnet@mailinglists.org'" From: "Conley, Paul W." Subject: Try again. Ant. Location and Thank you! Message-id: <070AE2805DAC5F409222E15F3FCA421606BEE5F4@uuhil-354> --Boundary_(ID_KfxonVw/WpEdEXBvCX2bAw) Content-type: text/plain; CHARSET=us-ascii Hi all, I sent out 2 mails yesterday which neither made it. I must have goofed the addresses. Anyway, here is the retransmission of what I sent yesterday from 2 posts condensed... 1)Re: Ant. position Harold, I am thinking about the metal rudder hinges being in close proximity causing a problem. Another location like mine is starting at the seam of the turtle deck rounding upward about 18 inches behind the seats. Mine seems to work fine. I am new to the KR scene (about 8 months) but my bird was signed off in 79. That is the way it was built . Others? 2)Re: To lighten or not to lighten Thanks everyone for comments of how to remove the RG castings of my KR2. Seems hardwood dowels and T88 worked well to plug the bolt holes.. (I am sure the Flox would have been suitable as well). Much better than bolts or icky pucky! Paul Conley N38TF Rebuild Thank you, Paul Conley LAN-WAN Engineer, Global Hosting GHNEI (Net. Eng. & Implementation) UUNET, an MCI WorldCom Company (614) 723-7647 / paul.conley@wcom.com --Boundary_(ID_KfxonVw/WpEdEXBvCX2bAw)-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2002 13:55:23 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Lentz Henderson" Subject: KR VW2500 Message-ID: Type IV engine can be built out as far as 3100 cc+ using parts available today hp range 200+ Lentz Henderson _________________________________________________________________ Join the world’s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 08:47:51 +1000 To: "KR Net Listings" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Fw: KR> Epoxy on fuselage Message-ID: <004e01c217e3$584c36c0$3b97dccb@Matheson> > Larry > > Thanks for the epoxy story, I have got so far T88 for building, and vinylester Resin for the wing skins and Tanks. > > But What type of EXPOXY I would like your comments. I know there has been a lot of comment in the past, about epoxy , so please all you helpfull KR pros,do not shoot me down in flames. > > Phil Matheson. > > matheson@dodo.com.au > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "larry flesner" > To: "Phillip Matheson" > Sent: 19 June 2002 22:18 > Subject: Re: KR> Fiberglass on fuselage > > > > >You talk about F/Gass cloth and Epoxy,on the fuse, > > >What is the difference in using Epoxy resin or F/Glass resin on the > plywood > > >? > > >Phil Matheson > > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > > > Phil, > > > > You could seal the wood with epoxy, but the glass only adds 1.45 oz per > > yard (and it's 50 inches wide) so you only add a few ounces to the > fuselage > > if you plan to seal with epoxy anyway. You also get the additional > strength > > of the glass , i.e. puncture, wood splitting, nicks, dings, etc. > > > > Larry Flesner > > > > > > > ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************