From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 30 Jul 2002 12:44:57 -0000 Issue 484 Date: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 5:45 AM krnet Digest 30 Jul 2002 12:44:57 -0000 Issue 484 Topics (messages 11707 through 11736): Re: Oil cooler location 11707 by: JIM VANCE 11722 by: Brian Kraut 11727 by: Alex Swavely Re: VW engine case 11708 by: JIM VANCE 11728 by: Frank Ross 11732 by: Phillip Matheson wing tank loading. 11709 by: Audrey and Harold Woods 11711 by: asavant.notes.state.ne.us Re: :Welding 11710 by: NORM-RUTH windshields. 11712 by: Audrey and Harold Woods The Bill Clapp affair 11713 by: Phil Maley 11723 by: Phillip Matheson Re: Kr2 for sale... still...... 11714 by: doug d Re: engine mount for VW 11715 by: David McKelvey Cutting Plexiglass 11716 by: Mark Jones 11717 by: Robert Stone 11718 by: WA7YXF.aol.com 11721 by: Alex Swavely 11724 by: Phillip Matheson Re: The Type 4 is aluminium 11719 by: Brian Kraut 11733 by: Phillip Matheson Re: Build Light? Wing tanks Mounts 11720 by: Phillip Matheson 11730 by: Schurr, Larry 11736 by: Phillip Matheson Re: F/Glass Wing tanks Mounts 11725 by: Phillip Matheson Oil Filter 11726 by: virgnvs.juno.com Re: Cutting Plexiglas 11729 by: Daniel Heath 11734 by: Frank Ross Short & Sweet 11731 by: Mark Jones Re: Wing tanks Mounts 11735 by: Phillip Matheson Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 07:02:41 -0500 To: "kr net" From: "JIM VANCE" Subject: Re: KR> Oil cooler location Message-ID: <004501c236fa$f74ae600$35000a0a@oemcomputer> To use the oil pump plate for the outlet, the internal outlet on the pump must be closed. Great Plains engine book has a full page of the procedures. The outlet hose goes to a high pressure oil filter, such as the FRAM HP-1 (designed for racing engines). I put the oil cooler and filter in series, then returned the oil to the oil galley on the rear left side of the engine. If you use the rear drive and have an alternator, then the layout gets dicey. The oil outlet from the pump has to go inside of the alternator drive belt. The hole in the end of the oil galley is pointed right at the span of the belt going to the alternator. There are two solutions to this, and I didn't like either one. You can cut the alternator bracket off the rear engine mount and weld it on the other side to move the alternator over. Or, you can use a 45 degree street elbow with the corners rounded and then the hose adapter. I couldn't find a banjo fitting that was small enough to fit the area. Jim Vance ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" To: "Daniel Heath" ; Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 12:38 PM Subject: Re: KR> Oil cooler location > Where do the lines for the filter come from and go to? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 22:09:04 -0400 To: JIM VANCE , krnet@mailinglists.org From: Brian Kraut Subject: Re: KR> Oil cooler location Message-ID: <3D45F540.70102@earthlink.net> --------------040000030008050605070707 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks to all who replied. After I got some replies it seemed like if would not be too much of a problem to use the oil right from the pump to the filter and leave the oil cooler on the top where it was. Then I realized that I had already welded the pipe fittings to the ports on my oil cooler. I also already have the two inlet tower to go on top of the engine, so I may just stick with what I have and hang the cooler under the engine with the filter and cooler in series off of the twin outlet tower. I may still reconsider and buy a new $80.00 cooler to put back on top of the engine and use a high pressure filter. That won't cost me much more than the couple feet of Aeroquip hose and two more fittings that it will take to put them in series, not to mention reworking my baffels. Is that Fram filter is standard cheap auto parts store item or do I need to buy a $15.00 filter at the speed shop every time I change my oil? Will it fit on the Great Plains remote filter mount? Anyone in the market for an oil cooler with 3/8" NPT tapped aluminum fittings welded on the ports? It has been pressure tested to 150 PSI. JIM VANCE wrote: >To use the oil pump plate for the outlet, the internal outlet on the pump >must be closed. Great Plains engine book has a full page of the procedures. > >The outlet hose goes to a high pressure oil filter, such as the FRAM HP-1 >(designed for racing engines). I put the oil cooler and filter in series, >then returned the oil to the oil galley on the rear left side of the engine. > >If you use the rear drive and have an alternator, then the layout gets >dicey. The oil outlet from the pump has to go inside of the alternator >drive belt. The hole in the end of the oil galley is pointed right at the >span of the belt going to the alternator. There are two solutions to this, >and I didn't like either one. You can cut the alternator bracket off the >rear engine mount and weld it on the other side to move the alternator over. >Or, you can use a 45 degree street elbow with the corners rounded and then >the hose adapter. I couldn't find a banjo fitting that was small enough to >fit the area. > > Jim Vance >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Brian Kraut" >To: "Daniel Heath" ; >Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 12:38 PM >Subject: Re: KR> Oil cooler location > > >>Where do the lines for the filter come from and go to? >> > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > --------------040000030008050605070707-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 20:37:11 -0700 (PDT) To: From: Alex Swavely Subject: Re: KR> Oil cooler location Message-ID: I just did a check on PartsAmerica.com, which says that there's an HP-1 filter sitting down on my neighborhood Schucks' filter shelf for $5.29, so very likely there's one sitting on your local cheap auto parts store's filter shelf, too.. On Mon, 29 Jul 2002, Brian Kraut wrote: > Is that Fram filter is standard cheap auto parts store item or do I need > to buy a $15.00 filter at the speed shop every time I change my oil? > Will it fit on the Great Plains remote filter mount? > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 07:16:25 -0500 To: "kr net" From: "JIM VANCE" Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case Message-ID: <004601c236fa$f855ed60$35000a0a@oemcomputer> The VW engines and transaxles are a magnesium/aluminum alloy. I saw a VW bug burn, and the engine and tranny burned with a brilliant white light. It burned hot enough that it melted the sand under the engine into a chunk of glass. It made it easy to clean up the engine--just sweep the crank and connecting rods into a pile. Jim Vance ----- Original Message ----- From: "Buddy & Cheryl" To: Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 11:35 PM Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 21:08:52 -0700 (PDT) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Frank Ross Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case Message-ID: <20020730040852.63943.qmail@web21503.mail.yahoo.com> Brian, I'm not sure about an engine case, but I spilled brake fluid on a clear-coated aluminum bracket on my motorcycle and the clear coat disappeared real fast. Ever pour brake fluid on a painted surface? It did not seem to effect the aluminum, but I do not know about magnesium/aluminum alloys. I always like to try out new stuff a little bit on a small insignificant area first anyway. Frank Ross in San Antonio, TX, Back from Oshkosh --- Brian Kraut wrote: > I thought that the VW Type 1 case was aluminum, but > I have seen > reference to it possibly being magnesium. I need to > remove the paint on > my case and repaint it. I don't have a sand blaster > and it is very hard > to get in all the cracks with a wire brush. I > thought of using paint > stripper, but magnesium is fairly reactive to some > chemicals. Does > anyone know if it is safe to use paint stripper on > the VW case? > > I was also thinking that maybee I would rent a > pressure washer and blast > off the paint. I need to do my driveway anyway. > > By the way, I have been using Dupli-Color 1200 > degree high temperature > paint from the auto parts store on some other engine > parts. I have used > different engine enamels in the past, but they > scratch off easily. When > the Dupli-Color is post cured in my oven for two > hours like the can > recommends it gets extreemly hard and durable. It > is not quite as good > as powder coat, but it is the best I have ever seen > in a paint. I > highly recommend it. They also make 500 degree > paint and that can does > not say that it should be post cured. It scratches > off easily with a > fingernail. I don't know if baking on the 500 > degree stuff will help it > or not. > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , > NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: > krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: > krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 22:38:06 +1000 To: "KR Net Listings" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Fw: KR> VW engine case Message-ID: <001a01c237c5$f4b6c960$f396dccb@Matheson> > Confirm type 1 cases are magnesium alloy. Don't forget that alot of these > cases are over 30 years old and have been in the hands of a number of > mechanics. > Our type 1 engines with a new case will give the best results for an > aircraft engine requiring a higher degree of reliability. > Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 See our engines at: http://www.vw-engines.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 10:03:32 -0400 To: From: "Audrey and Harold Woods" Subject: wing tank loading. Message-ID: <001101c23708$b9a41700$b0046418@baol.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C236E7.3236E980 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable When fuel is placed in the fuselage or in the inner wing stubs the = downward weight of the fuel acts on the wing attachment fittings . When = the fuel is placed in the outer wing tank, the downward force of the = weight of the fuel acts on the otherside of the wing attachment = fittings. Somewhat like a teetertotter. Where the wing attachment = fittings become the pivot point or fulcrum of a lever. Thus the load on = these fittings becomes less when the weight is farther out. Harold Woods. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.373 / Virus Database: 208 - Release Date: 7/1/02 ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C236E7.3236E980-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 09:08:07 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: asavant@notes.state.ne.us Subject: Re: KR> wing tank loading. Message-ID: >Thus the load on these fittings becomes less when the weight is farther out. The farther the weight the larger the moment (keeping weight constant) and hence larger the load on the fitting. Is that the principle of simple wrench? I am not sure I agree with your statement. Please explain if I am wrong. Thanks Ameet ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 10:16:34 -0700 To: "krnet" From: "NORM-RUTH" Subject: Fw: :Welding Message-ID: <000d01c23723$b1e2a980$06ed3a41@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C236E9.044E10A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable A lot is being written on welding versus brazing of 4130 steel. All of = the brazing talk seems to be about brass brazing. No one discusses = silver/nickel brazing. I read in SA some years back about a tube and = fabric plane being built using a Eutectic or nickel/silver rod. Also, = William Wynne (Corvair Authority), a couple years back told how he once = worked for a company that made high performance motorcycle frames that = were brazed. Further, I read where nickle/silver brazing had been used = for auto racing suspensions. Perhaps the embrittlement of 4130 steel applies only to brass brazing. I would like to hear from those that are knowledgeable in this area. Thanks, Norm Seel =20 wynne (orvair Authority), a coupler years=20 ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C236E9.044E10A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 10:23:14 -0400 To: From: "Audrey and Harold Woods" Subject: windshields. Message-ID: <005801c2370b$79deaec0$b0046418@baol.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C236E9.F2931300 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Since I widened my fuselage to 48 inches, my front windshield will = consist of a compound curved left and right section with an aluminum = post on its inner vertical edge, The remaining center section is thus = flat. I was intending on putting in lexan, I know that it scratches = easily. How about a layer of plexiglass (1/8") overtop of a lexan = (1/8"). Are the thermol expansion rates similar? I certainly do not want = to glue in (urethane as in car windshields) the lexan and then get it = scrached and have a serious problem to replace it. This should provide a = good protection from bird strikes. (Provided it is not a goose). Any = comments out there ? Harold Woods. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.373 / Virus Database: 208 - Release Date: 7/1/02 ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01C236E9.F2931300-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 23:12:07 +0800 To: "KRnet" From: "Phil Maley" Subject: The Bill Clapp affair Message-ID: Hi all A brief follow-up regarding my missing landing gear components. You might recall I mentioned I had sent some money over to Bill Clapp in Valdosta, Georgia for some landing gear components for my KR2. Well, despite him telling me via email that he had sent the goods by courier, he never did give me a tracking number. Since then he has stopped responding to my emails, his phone is disconnected and emails to him are bouncing. What a guy! Thank goodness you Americans are not all like him. I've registered a complaint with the internet fraud complaint centre http://www.ifccfbi.gov/ and sent a fax complaint to the district attorney's office in Valdosta. No help from either one so far, which I guess I should have expected. Our police in Australia say it's a civil matter so they won't help. Anyway, since Bill is registered on the FAA database as a current commercial pilot, he is bound to show up somewhere. If any of you run across him, just ask him if he remembers me. Also ask him how his KR2 is coming along. Remember the incredibly fast progress he was making in his occasional reports on the list? Who knows, maybe he is already in prison. Regards to all Phil Maley ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:08:24 +1000 To: "KRnet" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> The Bill Clapp affair Message-ID: <007001c2376d$fd388d60$0100a8c0@LocalHost> Phil, Sorry to hear about you loss of money. I hope someone can help. or the is a good reason for his disappearance. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 NSW Australia. See our VW engines at; www.vw-engines.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil Maley" To: "KRnet" Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 1:12 AM Subject: KR> The Bill Clapp affair > Hi all > > A brief follow-up regarding my missing landing gear components. You > might recall I mentioned I had sent some money over to Bill Clapp in > Valdosta, Georgia for some landing gear components for my KR2. Well, > despite him telling me via email that he had sent the goods by > courier, he never did give me a tracking number. Since then he has > stopped responding to my emails, his phone is disconnected and emails > to him are bouncing. What a guy! Thank goodness you Americans are not > all like him. > > I've registered a complaint with the internet fraud complaint centre > http://www.ifccfbi.gov/ and sent a fax complaint to the district > attorney's office in Valdosta. No help from either one so far, which I > guess I should have expected. Our police in Australia say it's a civil > matter so they won't help. > > Anyway, since Bill is registered on the FAA database as a current > commercial pilot, he is bound to show up somewhere. If any of you run > across him, just ask him if he remembers me. Also ask him how his KR2 > is coming along. Remember the incredibly fast progress he was making > in his occasional reports on the list? > > Who knows, maybe he is already in prison. > > Regards to all > Phil Maley > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 15:06:02 -0700 (PDT) To: doug d , krnet@mailinglists.org From: doug d Subject: Re: KR> Kr2 for sale... still...... Message-ID: <20020729220602.12082.qmail@web11005.mail.yahoo.com> well, after a couple of offers that seem to have fallen through, I want to let you guys know that it's still for sale. I'd like to get $750 for it all, which seems to be a really good price. It is far enough along though, that you will need a trailer or full-size pickup to move it. I can build a "cradle" for it to sit in in a pickup, but it hangs over everywhere. Anyone interested, let me know..... doug --- doug d wrote: > Hi all. > Well, after mulling this over for about a year now, > i'm going to sell my Kr2. It is still in the "boat" > stage, and in my opinion, is in the perfect stage > for > a new or experienced builder to take over. If you > want to complete with the new airfoil, you still > can. > The spars are complete, the stub wings are done all > with WAF's on, but the stub wing skins aren't > attached > yet. Aileron bellcranks are in. The quality of the > work so far is very nice, you can see it. The > horizontal stab is ready to go on. I just didn't > get > it done last fall before school started again. The > vertical stab needs to be finished, but have the > preformed > skins. The rudder is done, the elevator is done, > with > trim tab. The rudder/elevator hinges are done. The > fuselage has been stretched 20 inches in the back, > but > you can't tell until you measure it. The shoulder > width of the fuselage is also larger for those of > you > who don't want to fly in a cessna 150... > Have the flap handle/selector, and some > miscellaneous > parts. My plans and serial number are from June > 2001. > Since i've gone back to school, i havent had the > time > to work on her at all. Which is a shame, i know. > Because she is a beautiful aircraft. Don't have the > landing gear. Was going to use tricycle gear from > Grove Aircraft Company, but didn't purchase it yet. > The aircraft is in Rapid City, SD. If you or > someone > you know is interested in this purchase, please > email > me at Kr2man@rushmore.com > I will sell at a very reasonable price, i'm not > looking to recoup any labor costs here, but will be > fair with the price... You can transport it in a > Chevy S10 pickup with some ingenuity... Thanks > Kr-netters, and thanks Mark Langford for all your > help. I'll stay on the Krnet for now... > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free > http://sbc.yahoo.com > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , > NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: > krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: > krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 17:05:58 -0500 To: , From: "David McKelvey" Subject: RE: KR> engine mount for VW Message-ID: Harbor Freight has a VW engine stand that mounts to your bench, I thnk it's $20 Dave Grapevine TX -----Original Message----- From: Davinick2@aol.com [mailto:Davinick2@aol.com] Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 12:19 AM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> engine mount for VW Hi folks Iam looking for a VW (Limbach) engine mount. Does not need to be airworthy. I just want to mount my engine on an engine stand for inspiration and start work on the baffles. I plan on building a swing out engine mount, from drawings that Neil Bingham sent me years ago, as soon as my welding skills improve. Net Lurker from Idaho KR-2 building since 19?? Nick --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 18:55:42 -0500 To: "KR-Net" From: "Mark Jones" Subject: Cutting Plexiglass Message-ID: <002701c2375b$72e8b480$c5991f41@wi.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C23731.89C7E7E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi All, What are your thoughts as to the best method to cut a $470 Dragonfly = canopy without creating any cracks? Is a Dremel tool and a cut off wheel = the best way? Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA=20 E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at =20 http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01C23731.89C7E7E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 19:37:09 -0500 To: "Mark Jones" , "KR-Net" From: "Robert Stone" Subject: Re: KR> Cutting Plexiglass Message-ID: <000d01c23761$3e9b0f60$05d81a18@hot.rr.com> Mark: The key to success in cutting Plexiglas is a fine tooth saw turning at very high speed or a grinding edge tool. If you try to use any tool that has a course cutting edge the glass will not only crack but will shatter. Bob Stone ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR-Net" Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 6:55 PM Subject: KR> Cutting Plexiglass Hi All, What are your thoughts as to the best method to cut a $470 Dragonfly canopy without creating any cracks? Is a Dremel tool and a cut off wheel the best way? Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 21:48:20 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: WA7YXF@aol.com Subject: Cutting plexiglass Message-ID: <135.120d16b0.2a774a64@aol.com> Mark, I used the Dremel tool and cut off wheel and found it to be a real easy process. It wasn't near as scary as I thought it might be. Lynn Hyder N37LH ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 18:55:13 -0700 (PDT) To: KR-Net From: Alex Swavely Subject: Re: KR> Cutting Plexiglass Message-ID: On Mon, 29 Jul 2002, Mark Jones wrote: > What are your thoughts as to the best method to cut a $470 Dragonfly > canopy without creating any cracks? Is a Dremel tool and a cut off > wheel the best way? > According to my Doran construction manual (3 wheeled car) which specifies acrylic sheet for its windows: "Acrylic is easy to cut. A sabre saw blade with small teeth made for cutting wood is sufficient. A very fine toothed blade for cutting metal is actually slower because the plastic clogs the teeth. The rule of thumb for almost all sawing is to keep three teeth in contact with the edge at all times. .. The thinner the sheet, the finer the blade. "A sabre saw puts a lot of stress on the plastic. A medium [blade] speed with little force in pushing the saw through the plastic is optimal. .. Too much blade speed can cause the plastic to melt instead of cut." Hope this helps... I'd suggest purchasing a small bit of acrylic sheet the same thickness to do a test cut, also.. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:14:46 +1000 To: "Mark Jones" , "KR-Net" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Cutting Plexiglass Message-ID: <008501c2376e$e156fd60$0100a8c0@LocalHost> A friend of mine who built the Cobra arrow in Australia, use an 4" angle grinder and cut off disc. It is great, but be careful. www.tomair.com.au Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 NSW Australia. See our VW engines at; www.vw-engines.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" To: "KR-Net" Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 9:55 AM Subject: KR> Cutting Plexiglass Hi All, What are your thoughts as to the best method to cut a $470 Dragonfly canopy without creating any cracks? Is a Dremel tool and a cut off wheel the best way? Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 21:54:28 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Brian Kraut Subject: Re: KR> The Type 4 is aluminium Message-ID: <3D45F1D4.3000304@earthlink.net> O.K., I am convinced now that the case is magnesium, bud does anyone know if the chemicals in the paint stripper will react with the magnesium? I wouldn't worry if it was aluminum, but magnesium is fairly reactive to some chemicals. Serge F. VIDAL wrote: >The best book I could find on VW engines is "How to rebuild your Volkswagen >air-cooled engine" by Tom Wilson. > >He explains that VW Type 1, 2 and 3 are magnesium alloy, and therefore, >brittle with age. The Type 4 is aluminium, and considered "bullet-proof" >because of its thick walls.Also, many of the "known problems" he mentions >about the Types 1, 2 and 3, are not applicable to the Type 4. > >Problem is, Type 4 blocks are scarce...except possibly here in South Africa. > >Serge VIDAL >KR2 ZS-WEC >Johannesburg, South Africa > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 22:38:48 +1000 To: "KR Net Listings" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Fw: KR> The Type 4 is aluminium Message-ID: <002001c237c6$0df35ba0$f396dccb@Matheson> > Cases are aluminium and are not hard to get. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 See our engines at: http://www.vw-engines.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 11:45:41 +1000 To: "krnet listing" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Build Light? Wing tanks Mounts Message-ID: <001201c2376a$d5587380$0100a8c0@LocalHost> Larry Thanks, I was going to make F/Glass wing tanks, but I think I will make Alum. They will by only 12" wide and run through two wing ribs, for a total 46 " and have two baffles in each. Question, How would you mount these tanks? would they need to sit them on some support and mount them to epoxed an mount to the spar???I have Diehl moulded wing skins .( I do not want to drill the Spar) Comment please. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 NSW Australia. See our VW engines at; www.vw-engines.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry flesner" To: "Phillip Matheson" ; "KRnet" Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 12:49 PM Subject: Re: KR> building it light > >Mark, Wrote > >( And wing tanks built in the outer wings take the load off the wing attach > >fittings,) > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > >1- Question > >What did you mean when you said the wing tanks will take the load OFF the > >WAF's > >I'm going the same, but I was concerned the tanks will increase the load on > >the WAF. > >Phil Matheson > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > The wing develops the lift that supports the weight of the aircraft in the > air. > Any weight "inside" the wing attach fittings (WAF) , i.e., the fuselage, > engine, passangers, is supported by the WAF's. The weight of any fuel in > the outer wing panels is supported by the wing lift directly and the > "load" is not being transfered through the WAF's. You are thereby "unloading" > or taking the load off the WAF's. > > Now the flip side. If you have full tanks in the outer panels and make a hard > landing, you will put stress on the WAF's that a "standard" KR would not > experience. I suspect if you land hard enough to do damage, there will > be other problems of more immediate concern. You will be placing > additional "loading" on the WAF's anytime the wing is not developing lift > and you have fuel in the outboard tanks but this is rather insignificant > under most conditions. My 12.5 gal wing tank will place an additional > load on the WAF's of about 80 pounds X distance ( 3.5 feet to center > of tank) for a loading of 280 ft/lbs with the aircraft at rest. ONE OF YOU > ENGINEER TYPES TELL ME IF I'M CORRECT ON THIS OR NOT. > > There are other things to consider also such as flight handling with the > weight outboard in the wings, especially if the tanks are not baffled > well and the fuel sloshes root to tip and back! Weight outboard could > also cause some noticable changes in roll control, etc. > > Does that make sense???????? > > I drive "18 wheel" trucks part time for my flying money and I had a fellow > driver tell me about a time when he had 4000 gal of oil in a 6000 gal > unbaffled tanker. He made a sudden stop at a traffic light, the oil did > a giant slosh and moved the truck right out into the intersection with > the brakes locked up tight! It's not fun driving with partial loads with > that type of equipment. As KR drivers we don't have to worry about > 27,000 pounds of weight sloshing around but you get my point. > > Larry Flesner > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 06:20:57 -0500 To: krnet listing From: "Schurr, Larry" Subject: RE: KR> Build Light? Wing tanks Mounts Message-ID: Hi Larry, Larry here :-) I'm an "engineer-type" -- sorry, tuned in a little late. My new buddy Rich McCall just intro'd me to the list. Wing tanks- Yes, in normal flight conditions, a tank in the wing panel can be argued to actually reduce the amount of load on the wing attach fittings -- in positive g-loading conditions. The converse is also true, that in *any* negative g-loaded conditions >1, the present fuel will actually aggravate the load. So whatever you (theoretically) 'gain' in positive, you lose in negative (e.g. turbulence, down pitch, etc.). The wing has to lift the same no matter where you put the fuel so this is just a concern of the wing fittings HOWEVER IF anyone's design is of such close margins that the weight of the fuel actually makes a difference in the viability of safety, YOU HAVE THE WRONG DESIGN! IOW, though the above argument can be made and the phenomenon can be shown accurate, DO NOT incorporate such assumptions into overall airframe mod decisions and plan for worst case regardless. Wing attach is the wrong place to be lathering up for a close shave. just my overbearing, soapbox, $.02USD -worth Larry > ONE OF > YOU > > ENGINEER TYPES TELL ME IF I'M CORRECT ON THIS OR NOT. > > > > There are other things to consider also such as flight > handling with the > > weight outboard in the wings, especially if the tanks are > not baffled > > well and the fuel sloshes root to tip and back! Weight > outboard could > > also cause some noticable changes in roll control, etc. > > > > Does that make sense???????? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 22:46:57 +1000 To: "Schurr, Larry" , "krnet listing" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Build Light? Wing tanks Mounts Message-ID: <003701c237c7$32669b40$f396dccb@Matheson> Larry I think you are saying that the load should not effect the aircraft WAF. I will have about 40 to 50 Litr at side. 33lbs a side of Fuel. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 See our engines at: http://www.vw-engines.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 12:23:31 +1000 To: "krnet listing" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> F/Glass Wing tanks Mounts Message-ID: <009c01c23770$1ad00360$0100a8c0@LocalHost> ------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C237C3.EAE016A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Brian I have had so many people tell me different things about F/Glass tanks. I can get Two Alum tanks 6" by 12" by 46" with tow baffels , for about = $200 Aust ( $100US) each.=20 That seems good to me. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 NSW Australia. See our VW engines at; www.vw-engines.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Brian Kraut=20 To: Phillip Matheson=20 Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 12:18 PM Subject: Re: KR> Build Light? Wing tanks Mounts Any particular reason you are not making fiberglass wing tanks? I did = not build my plane myself and have much less experience than most of the = other people on this list, but I did build fiberglass tanks in my stub = wings when I changed from retracts to the Diehl gear. It was fairly = easy to do. =20 Phillip Matheson wrote: LarryThanks,I was going to make F/Glass wing tanks, but I think I will = make Alum. Theywill by only 12" wide and run through two wing ribs, for = a total 46 " andhave two baffles in each.Question,How would you mount = these tanks? would they need to sit them on some supportand mount them = to epoxed an mount to the spar???I have Diehl moulded wingskins .( I do = not want to drill the Spar)Comment please.Phil = Mathesonmatheson@dodo.com.au61 3 58833588NSWAustralia.See our VW = engines at;www.vw-engines.com----- Original Message -----From: "larry = flesner" To: "Phillip Matheson" = ; "KRnet"Sent: Monday, = July 29, 2002 12:49 PMSubject: Re: KR> building it light Mark, Wrote( And wing tanks built in the outer wings take the load off = the wing attach fittings,) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 1- QuestionWhat did you mean when you said the wing tanks will take the = load OFF theWAF'sI'm going the same, but I was concerned the tanks will = increase the load on the WAF.Phil Matheson ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++The = wing develops the lift that supports the weight of the aircraft in = theair.Any weight "inside" the wing attach fittings (WAF) , i.e., the = fuselage,engine, passangers, is supported by the WAF's. The weight of = any fuel inthe outer wing panels is supported by the wing lift directly = and the"load" is not being transfered through the WAF's. You are = thereby "unloading" or taking the load off the WAF's.Now the flip side. If you have full = tanks in the outer panels and make a hard landing, you will put stress on the WAF's that a "standard" KR would = notexperience. I suspect if you land hard enough to do damage, there = willbe other problems of more immediate concern. You will be = placingadditional "loading" on the WAF's anytime the wing is not = developing liftand you have fuel in the outboard tanks but this is = rather insignificantunder most conditions. My 12.5 gal wing tank will = place an additionalload on the WAF's of about 80 pounds X distance ( 3.5 = feet to centerof tank) for a loading of 280 ft/lbs with the aircraft at = rest. ONE OF YOU ENGINEER TYPES TELL ME IF I'M CORRECT ON THIS OR NOT.There are other = things to consider also such as flight handling with theweight outboard = in the wings, especially if the tanks are not baffledwell and the fuel = sloshes root to tip and back! Weight outboard couldalso cause some = noticable changes in roll control, etc.Does that make sense????????I = drive "18 wheel" trucks part time for my flying money and I had a = fellowdriver tell me about a time when he had 4000 gal of oil in a 6000 = galunbaffled tanker. He made a sudden stop at a traffic light, the oil = dida giant slosh and moved the truck right out into the intersection = withthe brakes locked up tight! It's not fun driving with partial loads = withthat type of equipment. As KR drivers we don't have to worry = about27,000 pounds of weight sloshing around but you get my point.Larry = Flesner ---------------------------------------------------------------------To = post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all"To = UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional = commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.orgSee the KRNet archives at = http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jspor http://www.bouyea.net/ for = the Word files ------=_NextPart_000_0099_01C237C3.EAE016A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2002 22:56:45 -0400 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Subject: Oil Filter Message-ID: <20020729.230039.-377323.0.virgnvs@juno.com> Get an AMSOIL Filter as it will take the higher pressures, Virg ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 06:35:41 -0700 To: "KR-Net" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> Cutting Plexiglas Message-ID: Mark, I used what I call a slitting saw. It is a thin steel blade about 3 1/2 in. in diameter. I think Makita makes one. If you like, I can get you the name off of mine. I have cut 3 bubbles with it. 2 on my first KR, because I broke the first bubble while hauling the plane from the airport, and 1 for this KR. You certainly have to be careful, but I have not cracked any of them with this tool. The cut off wheel on the dremmel generates a lot of heat and you get build up of the melting plastic. I also used it to cut the Lexan for the windshield. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 05:37:18 -0700 (PDT) To: KR-Net From: Frank Ross Subject: RE: KR> Cutting Plexiglas Message-ID: <20020730123718.93116.qmail@web21502.mail.yahoo.com> I have not cut into my canopy yet, but I seem to remember something about laying down a strip of masking tape along the cutting line, drawing your cut-line along it and cutting the plastic with the tape in place. I know this would help prevent slipping off line. Does anyone know any more about using masking tape? Thank you Frank Ross, San Antonio, TX __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better http://health.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 06:29:50 -0500 To: "KR-Net" From: "Mark Jones" Subject: Short & Sweet Message-ID: <001801c237bc$6adf65c0$c5991f41@wi.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C23792.81C63A40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I met Larry Capps at Oshkosh and find him to be a great person and = extremely dedicated to the cause of keeping the KR Newsletter alive. I = received an e-mail from him a few minutes ago about the Newsletter. As of right now he has only received 44 subscriptions. Very few of these = are from individuals who have been subscribers. It looks to me that=20 WE ARE LOSING IT !!! Is this what you guys really want to happen? The = death of the Newsletter....PLEASE....PLEASE....get your subscriptions in = to Larry now so the Newsletter will SURVIVE !!!! Larry Capps, Editor KR Newsletter 10S485 Book Road (yes, that is an s in the address) Naperville, IL 60564 E-mail Larry at: krnews@attbi.com $24 per year US. $32 per year Foreign. $45 for a searchable CD of 27 years of the KR Newsletter. THANK YOU Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA=20 E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at =20 http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C23792.81C63A40-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2002 22:42:14 +1000 To: "KR Net Listings" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Wing tanks Mounts Message-ID: <002e01c237c6$88b96960$f396dccb@Matheson> Thanks Daniel That's what I was hopping someone would say. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 See our engines at: http://www.vw-engines.com/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Daniel Heath" To: "Phillip Matheson" Sent: 30 July 2002 23:40 Subject: RE: KR> Wing tanks Mounts > Phil, > > Can you glue a mounting block on the spar that you can drill? Weld mounting > tabs on your tank and bolt it to the mounting block. > > Daniel R. Heath > > See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org > > See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG > > > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.325 / Virus Database: 182 - Release Date: 2/19/2002 > > ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************