From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 4 Sep 2002 03:20:07 -0000 Issue 509 Date: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 8:21 PM krnet Digest 4 Sep 2002 03:20:07 -0000 Issue 509 Topics (messages 12320 through 12347): Retract Actuation Item 12320 by: Peter Johnson 12327 by: Leigh Plymale Re: Most powerful VW powered KR2 12321 by: Phillip Matheson PRD Hennie van Rooyen 12322 by: jim wogaman 12332 by: van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02) 12342 by: Brian Kraut Epoxy tips 12323 by: Brian Kraut VW engine case cracks 12324 by: Brian Kraut 12326 by: Daniel Heath 12328 by: Serge F. VIDAL 12329 by: jim wogaman 12336 by: Serge F. VIDAL Mailing List Guide from Matronics KR-LIST 12325 by: Mauryhuntr.aol.com VW parts 12330 by: Leigh Plymale 12331 by: Mark Langford Re: Trailers -comments 12333 by: larry flesner 12334 by: jim wogaman Side project completed! 12335 by: Serge F. VIDAL Re: Weight and Balance 12337 by: Christian Kogelmann 12338 by: jim wogaman 12341 by: larry flesner Trailers 12339 by: JIM VANCE Landing Gear, Alternate Design Concept Comments 12340 by: Mr. Bryce Guenther Facet fuel pumps 12343 by: Brian Kraut fuel filters 12344 by: Brian Kraut Zenith mizture adjustment 12345 by: Brian Kraut trailer stability & tires 12346 by: jim wogaman Strobe Lights/Compass 12347 by: Mark Jones Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 23:53:36 -0700 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Retract Actuation Item Message-ID: <004601c2524d$91501820$1c09eccf@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C25212.CA07E840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello everyone. I've been busting my butt on boat work this summer, but = I have still managed to complete the retracting mechanism design for my = 80% scale Grumman F3F-3. I think what I found to complete the mechanism = may be of interest to others contemplating a manual retract system. A big problem in designing the retract actuation was finding a threaded = rod that I could turn that would provide sufficiant travel needed to = pull the scissor gear legs up into the fuse. Using common 5/8" or 3/4" = diameter threaded rod required 9 or 10 turns of the rod to obtain only = one inch of travel. This was too much cranking for too little travel = for my needs. =20 I found what I needed just recently at work. While managing a civil = contractor pouring a foundation for me, I noticed him using an = interesting rebar. Turns out it wasn't rebar, but a form bracing rod = called 'Coil Rod'. This coil rod has a thread shaped like a half sphere = instead of the normal 'V' cut, ie, you could roll a small ball-bearing = in the thread, the threads are clean, smooth, and uniform as are the = matching nuts that thread on the rod. The 3/8" diameter rod has 8 = threads/inch, the 1/2" diameter rod had 6 TPI, and the 5/8" rod has 4.5 = TPI. The Coil Rod provided the amount of actuation travel required to = pull the gear up into the fuse without me having to crank my arm silly = to get it. The 'Coil Rod' is available at GOOD concrete/concrete form business' and = is not at all expensive. =20 I'm going to use Coil Rod on the retract actuation system for the = KR-2Sexy also. Hope this helps someone somewhere. =20 With luck I'll see you at the gathering. mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0043_01C25212.CA07E840-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 15:06:30 -0400 To: From: "Leigh Plymale" Subject: Re: KR> Retract Actuation Item Message-ID: <001e01c252b3$d8e36500$90343118@chvlva.adelphia.net> Peter, Their is also a "ball screw" available at power transmission product dealers. People who sell gearboxes, motors, chain, sprockets, etc. I know that major airlines use these as actuators for flaps and trim as I have seen them at our local airport on planes. These are precision ground and hardened and use special ball bearing type nuts. they run extremely smoothly and also have the higher pitch you mention. These screws also have good engineering data available to properly size them to the application . The only down side is they aren't cheap. But what other important components in your plane have been? One of the major brand names is Thompson Saginaw. Check them out!! Leigh flyboy232@adelphia.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Johnson To: Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 2:53 AM Subject: KR> Retract Actuation Item Hello everyone. I've been busting my butt on boat work this summer, but I have still managed to complete the retracting mechanism design for my 80% scale Grumman F3F-3. I think what I found to complete the mechanism may be of interest to others contemplating a manual retract system. A big problem in designing the retract actuation was finding a threaded rod that I could turn that would provide sufficiant travel needed to pull the scissor gear legs up into the fuse. Using common 5/8" or 3/4" diameter threaded rod required 9 or 10 turns of the rod to obtain only one inch of travel. This was too much cranking for too little travel for my needs. I found what I needed just recently at work. While managing a civil contractor pouring a foundation for me, I noticed him using an interesting rebar. Turns out it wasn't rebar, but a form bracing rod called 'Coil Rod'. This coil rod has a thread shaped like a half sphere instead of the normal 'V' cut, ie, you could roll a small ball-bearing in the thread, the threads are clean, smooth, and uniform as are the matching nuts that thread on the rod. The 3/8" diameter rod has 8 threads/inch, the 1/2" diameter rod had 6 TPI, and the 5/8" rod has 4.5 TPI. The Coil Rod provided the amount of actuation travel required to pull the gear up into the fuse without me having to crank my arm silly to get it. The 'Coil Rod' is available at GOOD concrete/concrete form business' and is not at all expensive. I'm going to use Coil Rod on the retract actuation system for the KR-2Sexy also. Hope this helps someone somewhere. With luck I'll see you at the gathering. mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 22:46:00 +1000 To: From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Most powerful VW powered KR2 Message-ID: <005801c2527e$b1a60680$8c97dccb@Matheson> Beems wrote You can get 70 to 80 Hp reliably from a type 1 and you can get an assemble > it yourself unit from someone like aero conversions > http://www.aeroconversions.com/ in the U.S. for about $5000 The cheapest of -------------------------------------------------------------------- Please do not forget about the good down under VW engines. They have an agent in the USA. and the site shows some of the aircraft they have been fitted in. www.vw-engines.com Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 See our engines at: http://www.vw-engines.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 09:23:14 -0400 To: From: "jim wogaman" Subject: PRD Hennie van Rooyen Message-ID: <000c01c25284$29f24860$d8c429d1@jeannielobell> ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C25262.5D7952E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hennie: I purchased 2 "how to" VCR tapes from an EEA member (a Baptist = minister) from a small town near Demoines, IA several years ago. I do = not know if he is still distributing the tapes. The member had built a = prop reduction drive that he used on a V8 Chevy engine. He displayed the = plane with engine & drive @ Oshkosh. Every part of the unit was "off the = shelf" except for the shafts. The shafts were stock shafts from = auto/truck drives. He did do his own lathe work on the shafts. His unit = weighed 28 lbs. It handled the 185 HP of the V8. The 2 heaviest parts of = the unit were the shafts. It was a very simple construct. This is not a = criticism of the unit. He put a lot of work and thinking into his unit. = The pullys were off the shelf also. I believe they were supplied by = Gates Rubber. The belts were rated for 400 HP. Heavy shafts would not be = required for a VW engine. So a copy of this unit would not be nearly as = heavy as the original. I truely believe anyone that has built their KR = could do this unit! jim wogaman jwog1@copper.net =20 cleo :-) ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C25262.5D7952E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 21:01:59 -0500 To: "'krnet@mailinglists.org'" From: "van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02)" Subject: FW: KR> PRD Hennie van Rooyen Hi Jim, Thanks for the info. The lightest and easiest to fabricate reduction drive I've yet seen for a VW engine is here: (9 lbs!) http://www.altimizer.com/psru.html I'll start building mine soon. If you want to see for yourself what can be gained by adding a PSRU unit to a VW engine, go here: http://www.altimizer.com/specs.html It makes sense to me to go this route. Now, if I could only find a turbo in South Africa at a reasonable price...anybody listening? Keep well, Hennie van Rooyen South Africa "Hennie: I purchased 2 "how to" VCR tapes from an EEA member (a Baptist minister) from a small town near Demoines, IA several years ago..." ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 20:35:44 -0400 To: "van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02)" From: Brian Kraut CC: "'krnet@mailinglists.org'" Subject: Re: FW: KR> PRD Hennie van Rooyen Message-ID: <3D755560.3090306@earthlink.net> I don't know if I would trust this one. I don't think there is near enough beef where this is bolted to the engine case. I wouldn't be surprised at all to see the threads of the bolts tear right out of the case. I also don't like the idea of the three belts on one pully either. They can rub against each other and wear. I have seen pulleys that space multiple belts apart from each other a little and they seem to work good. If you started to unravel the side of one of these belts it would tear up the others in no time. If one belt broke it would cause the others to wander on the pulleys also. Actually, that probably would not happen because the broken one would wind up tangled in the others for two seconds before the whole thing came apart. Of course, this is just my opinion. If there are a bunch out there with thousands of hours than I am obviously wrong. van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02) wrote: >Hi Jim, > >Thanks for the info. The lightest and easiest to fabricate reduction drive >I've yet seen for a VW engine is here: (9 lbs!) > >http://www.altimizer.com/psru.html > >I'll start building mine soon. If you want to see for yourself what can be >gained by adding a PSRU unit to a VW engine, go here: > >http://www.altimizer.com/specs.html > >It makes sense to me to go this route. Now, if I could only find a turbo in >South Africa at a reasonable price...anybody listening? > >Keep well, >Hennie van Rooyen >South Africa > > > >"Hennie: I purchased 2 "how to" VCR tapes from an EEA member (a Baptist >minister) from a small town near Demoines, IA several years ago..." > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 13:03:21 -0400 To: krnet From: Brian Kraut Subject: Epoxy tips Message-ID: <3D7399D9.1030805@earthlink.net> Many of you already know of some of these, but here are all of my epoxy tips gathered over the years. A $2.00 set of plastic matching Ketchup and mustard dispensers works a lot better than trying to pour the correct amount of epoxy out of a gallon can. Only took me a gallon and a half for me to figure this one out. I use a 10cc syringe to get accurate epoxy measurements. I don't put the epoxy directly in the syringe. If I need about 30cc of epoxy I meter 20cc of water into the cup with the syringe, mark the level with a permanent marker, add 9.4cc more water(47 to 1 mixing ratio for E-Z Poxy), and mark another line. I empty and dry out the cup, add epoxy to the first line, add hardener to the second line, and voila I have the correct amount of epoxy. Dispensing from the ketchup and mustard containers makes it pretty easy to get accurately on the measuring line. This beats pouring epoxy from measuring cups because you don't wind up with part of what you measured stuck to the side of the measuring cup. It would be better to add epoxy and hardener by weight on a scale if you have one. A longer and thinner container will give you more accurate measurements than a cup for small amounts. I use pill jars for small batches and mix with a plastic butter knife. If you let it dry with the butter knife inside you can usually extract the dried epoxy from the jar and reuse it. You can freeze your excess epoxy and thaw and reuse it weeks later. Pill jars with lids come in real handy for freezing it in. You can speed up the cure of epoxy by putting it in the microwave and heating it. If you get the temperature just right you can stick something on and have the epoxy cured so you don't need to hold it in 5 minutes or less. You can get a full cure in less than an hour. I don't know if this decreases the strength of the epoxy or not, so I only recommend it for non-structural applications. Basically use it where you would have used five minute epoxy. Some precautions on heating epoxy. There is a chemical reaction between the resin and hardener that causes epoxy to heat itself up and cure. When you put it in the microwave you are adding even more heat. You may take it out of the microwave just warm to the touch, but you have kicked off the chemical reaction and the epoxy will heat itself up even more after you remove it from the microwave. The more epoxy you do this with, the faster it will heat itself up. Do this in very small batches and get it out of the mixing cup soon. I had about 20cc a few days ago that I heated to very warm to the touch. I couldn't use it for a few minutes because some parts went out of alignment. Before I knew it the plastic butter knife melted in the epoxy. Two minutes later the container was too hot to touch. Two minutes after that I had one solid mixing cup full of cured epoxy. You need to experiment here. The bigger the batch the less heat you need. Heating epoxy also makes it very thin for those times you need thin runny epoxy(not for wetting fabric, non structural things only). Again, it it thin and runny only a little while before it starts to cure rapidly. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 13:07:16 -0400 To: krnet From: Brian Kraut Subject: VW engine case cracks Message-ID: <3D739AC4.2020209@earthlink.net> I have some Magnaflux dye penetrant to check for cracks in my engine mount before I powder coat it. I wanted to check my 2180 VW case also while I have it apart. Do cracks in the Type 1 case normally form in any particular area that I should check? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 13:31:11 -0700 To: "krnet" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: RE: KR> VW engine case cracks Message-ID: I had a crack behind the #3 cylinder. See you in Red Oak. Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org See our EAA Chapter 242at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.381 / Virus Database: 214 - Release Date: 8/2/2002 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 23:48:02 +0200 To: From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case cracks Message-ID: <000201c252d0$6ffe30c0$72c421c4@co.za> Do cracks in the Type 1 case normally form in > any particular area that I should check? The Bible of VW engines rebuilders(Tom Wilson - How To Rebild your Volkswagen Air Cooled Engine) says: (p.76) (Excerpts) Case cracks ...Type 1-3 cases are magnesium, and sooner or later, they will crack. It is just a fact of life with these engines. Magnesium hardens in normal engine use until it gets so hard and brittle it cracks...Type 4 cases don't crack as a rule... (Then, he basically says that they can crack anywhere, but especially in the bellhousing area, on cylinder #3, and on the oil pressure sender hole) Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 19:46:48 -0400 To: "Serge F. VIDAL" From: "jim wogaman" Cc: Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case cracks Message-ID: <002c01c252db$0206a2e0$9ec429d1@jeannielobell> S.V. & Netters: VW engines you are using are plenty old! Probably had many earth-bound hours prior to your work. They are going to crack sometime. Let's hope it happens on the ground and the crack is not fatal to the engine or passengers. There is probably no solution but to have several uncracked cases. Good flying and health to you all. jim wogaman jwog1@copper.net cleo :-) ----- Original Message ----- From: Serge F. VIDAL To: Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 5:48 PM Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case cracks > Do cracks in the Type 1 case normally form in > > any particular area that I should check? > > The Bible of VW engines rebuilders(Tom Wilson - How To Rebild your > Volkswagen Air Cooled Engine) says: > > (p.76) (Excerpts) > Case cracks > > ...Type 1-3 cases are magnesium, and sooner or later, they will crack. It is > just a fact of life with these engines. Magnesium hardens in normal engine > use until it gets so hard and brittle it cracks...Type 4 cases don't crack > as a rule... > > (Then, he basically says that they can crack anywhere, but especially in the > bellhousing area, on cylinder #3, and on the oil pressure sender hole) > > Serge VIDAL > KR2 ZS-WEC > Johannesburg, South Africa > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 20:39:31 +0200 To: From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case cracks Message-ID: <005b01c2537a$e8444920$8ef721c4@co.za> No way! I use Type 4s, the "bullet-proof" VW engines ('cause made of aluminium instead of magnesium alloy), and have the blocks checked for cracks, so I think chances are pretty slim. Serge ----- Original Message ----- From: jim wogaman To: Serge F. VIDAL Cc: Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 1:46 AM Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case cracks > S.V. & Netters: VW engines you are using are plenty old! Probably had many > earth-bound hours prior to your work. They are going to crack sometime. > Let's hope it happens on the ground and the crack is not fatal to the engine > or passengers. There is probably no solution but to have several uncracked > cases. Good flying and health to you all. jim wogaman jwog1@copper.net > cleo :-) > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Serge F. VIDAL > To: > Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 5:48 PM > Subject: Re: KR> VW engine case cracks > > > > Do cracks in the Type 1 case normally form in > > > any particular area that I should check? > > > > The Bible of VW engines rebuilders(Tom Wilson - How To Rebild your > > Volkswagen Air Cooled Engine) says: > > > > (p.76) (Excerpts) > > Case cracks > > > > ...Type 1-3 cases are magnesium, and sooner or later, they will crack. It > is > > just a fact of life with these engines. Magnesium hardens in normal engine > > use until it gets so hard and brittle it cracks...Type 4 cases don't crack > > as a rule... > > > > (Then, he basically says that they can crack anywhere, but especially in > the > > bellhousing area, on cylinder #3, and on the oil pressure sender hole) > > > > Serge VIDAL > > KR2 ZS-WEC > > Johannesburg, South Africa > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 13:26:00 EDT To: KRNet@mailinglists.org From: Mauryhuntr@aol.com Subject: Mailing List Guide from Matronics KR-LIST Message-ID: <8d.1d95569f.2aa4f928@aol.com> --part1_8d.1d95569f.2aa4f928_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit That guide had some interesting suggestions (99% common sense and good manners) that would improve any type of online news letter, including ours. We are a pretty informal bunch which is one of our attractions However, a few informal suggestions or guides, that could be broadcast to the entire list once a month would set the rules for the newcomers and be a reminder to the regulars might help eliminate the shoot-from-the-hip and one-line-sarcasm messages that can hinder some newer members from joining in the conversations. I seem to remember someone posting an informal guide or request to follow the ground rules. That was quite some time ago. I would like to see him do it again on a regular basis to help us all keep on our best behavior. Maury Hunter Des Moines --part1_8d.1d95569f.2aa4f928_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 21:16:02 -0400 To: From: "Leigh Plymale" Subject: VW parts Message-ID: <001601c252e7$78afb7e0$90343118@chvlva.adelphia.net> ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C252C5.F131C180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable With all the talk of cracked blocks can any one direct me to a good = parts supply source. I know through car shows that I have been to that = there must be a good VW high performance parts house. I have visited all = of the aero oriented sites and am searching for a land oriented site. Ya = know stroker kits, big bore, big valves, etc. Leigh flyboy232@adelphia.net ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C252C5.F131C180-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 20:40:07 -0500 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> VW parts Message-ID: <001601c252ea$d63be6b0$0100a8c0@TD310> Leigh wrote: >With all the talk of cracked blocks can any one direct me to a good parts supply source. CB Performance at http://www.cbperformance.com/ and Gene Berg at http://www.geneberg.com/ ought to get you going. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 06:11:51 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Trailers -comments Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020903061151.00979d30@mail.midwest.net> > >At 09:37 AM 9/2/02 -0400, jim wogaman wrote: >My self I'd spec 15" wheels. >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The larger wheels would be nice but when you get to trailers with 15" wheels (with tandem axles) you are also getting a pretty heavy frame which leads to a rather heavy trailer. My trailer with 4 twelve inch wheels has made several trips (loaded) of 250+ miles with no apparent tire wear. I suggest starting with new wheels and tires, $29 ea. at "Sams Club", check/replace wheel bearings, check the axles for wear, and use the spring loaded bearing greasers. A trailer that does not go in and out of the water is much more reliable than one might think. The tires, bearings, and axles are the only real wear points on a trailer. Take care of them and they will take care of you. :-) Larry Flesner Carterville, Illinois, USA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 12:23:50 -0400 To: From: "jim wogaman" Subject: Re: KR> Trailers -comments Message-ID: <001901c25366$6376e0e0$74c429d1@jeannielobell> Larry Flesner: You are correct on all counts. Your trailer sounds cost effective and very workable. Being from a farm/heavy equipment background, I was just used to 15" wheels and 5400 GVW. Or larger. Actually 5400 GVW is actually like using a .45 when a 9mm will do the job fine. Dual axels are really good insurance though! jim wogaman jwog1@copper.net cleo :-) ----- Original Message ----- From: larry flesner <@midwest.net>flesnerkrnet@mailinglists.org To: Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 7:11 AM Subject: Re: KR> Trailers -comments > > > >At 09:37 AM 9/2/02 -0400, jim wogaman wrote: > >My self I'd spec 15" wheels. > >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > The larger wheels would be nice but when you get to trailers with > 15" wheels (with tandem axles) you are also getting a pretty heavy > frame which leads to a rather heavy trailer. My trailer with 4 twelve > inch wheels has made several trips (loaded) of 250+ miles with no > apparent tire wear. I suggest starting with new wheels and tires, > $29 ea. at "Sams Club", check/replace wheel bearings, check the > axles for wear, and use the spring loaded bearing greasers. A trailer > that does not go in and out of the water is much more reliable > than one might think. The tires, bearings, and axles are the only > real wear points on a trailer. Take care of them and they will > take care of you. :-) > > Larry Flesner > Carterville, Illinois, USA > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 20:50:37 +0200 To: From: "Serge F. VIDAL" Subject: Side project completed! Message-ID: <005c01c2537a$e947af60$8ef721c4@co.za> ------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C2538B.8E7FE0A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Netters, I think my work on my KR will slow down a little bit in the next few = weeks, because I just completed a side project: making a co-pilot! Hugo, Erwin, Charles, Claude VIDAL is born this day at 12:30 Zulu, and I = will start his training ASAP!. Since he weights only 3.2 kg, he is not = going to impair the CG too much. But at 51 cm height, how is he going to = see the horizon? :-)) Serge VIDAL KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa ------=_NextPart_000_0056_01C2538B.8E7FE0A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 21:54:06 +0200 To: "Krnet" , From: "Christian Kogelmann" Subject: Re: KR> Weight and Balance Message-ID: <003401c25383$bedd71c0$451c2e3e@aptivacomputer> Based on the KR-2 C/G problem, I installed 1 3/4 inch sapcers between the engine and the mount of my KR-2S (otherwise plans build). I guess I build the tail very light because the C/G is most forward. During the first flight the trim was full tail down and we still had to pull back a little to make it fly straight. Hence, I ended up putting 2,8kg of lead into the tail. With this additional weight and minimum fuel plus pilot and passenger, the C/G is still only 2/3 aft within the allowable range. I am planning to reduce the spacing from 1 3/4 inch to maybe only 1/2 inch, but doing this I have to change the cowlings and some other changes. This will be definitely a winter (2004 or 05) project. To your question, the KR-2S is if build per plan, very well balanced and does not require any C/G tweaking. LG Chris OE-VPD (still test flying...) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 4:18 PM Subject: KR> Weight and Balance > 
About a year ago I flew in a KR-2 and found the center of gravity was
too far
> "aft" with 2 people in the airplane, and required a faster (wheel) landing
> than would be used in most conventional-gear airplanes.  Other than that,
> this airplane seemed to be extremely well built; leading me to believe
that
> it was unlikely that the airplane was "misbuilt".  Is this (center of
gravity
> problem) a common configuration in KR-2 airplanes ?  Is it better in the
> later model Kr's (such as the KR-2S) ?
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:33:36 -0400
To: 
From: "jim wogaman" 
Cc: 
Subject: Re: KR> Weight and Balance
Message-ID: <004401c25389$38c73700$29491cd8@jeannielobell>

Netters, leon et al: Jeppesen & Sanderson state over load balance to the
rear of CG, especially past rear limit point is a no-no! No criticsm here.
jwog1#copper.net
cleo :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: Christian Kogelmann 
To: Krnet ; 
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: KR> Weight and Balance

> Based on the KR-2 C/G problem, I  installed 1 3/4 inch sapcers between the
> engine and the mount of my KR-2S (otherwise plans build).
> I guess I build the tail very light because the C/G is most forward.
During
> the first flight the trim was full tail down and we still had to pull back
a
> little to make it fly straight. Hence, I ended up putting 2,8kg of lead
into
> the tail.
> With this additional weight and minimum fuel plus pilot and passenger, the
> C/G is still only 2/3 aft within the allowable range.
>
> I am planning to reduce the spacing from 1 3/4 inch to maybe only 1/2
inch,
> but doing this I have to change the cowlings and some other changes. This
> will be definitely a winter (2004 or 05) project.
>
> To your question, the KR-2S is if build per plan, very well balanced and
> does not require any C/G tweaking.
>
> LG
> Chris
> OE-VPD
> (still test flying...)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 4:18 PM
> Subject: KR> Weight and Balance
>
>
> > 
About a year ago I flew in a KR-2 and found the center of gravity
was
> too far
> > "aft" with 2 people in the airplane, and required a faster (wheel)
landing
> > than would be used in most conventional-gear airplanes.  Other than
that,
> > this airplane seemed to be extremely well built; leading me to believe
> that
> > it was unlikely that the airplane was "misbuilt".  Is this (center of
> gravity
> > problem) a common configuration in KR-2 airplanes ?  Is it better in the
> > later model Kr's (such as the KR-2S) ?
> >
>
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all"
>
> To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org
> For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org
>
> See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 19:09:35 -0500
To: "Christian Kogelmann" ,
 "Krnet" ,
From: larry flesner 
Subject: Re: KR> Weight and Balance
Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20020903190935.0097a1e0@mail.midwest.net>

At 09:54 PM 9/3/02 +0200, Christian Kogelmann wrote:
>I am planning to reduce the spacing from 1 3/4 inch to maybe only 1/2 inch,
>but doing this I have to change the cowlings and some other changes. This
>will be definitely a winter (2004 or 05) project.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++=

Christian,

Could you use a 1 1/4 inch prop extention and cut down the amount of
cowl mods needed?  Might only have to re-do some baffles.

Larry Flesner
Carterville, Illinois, USA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 16:53:28 -0500
To: "kr net" 
From: "JIM VANCE" 
Subject: Trailers
Message-ID: <002401c25394$98e1df40$35000a0a@oemcomputer>

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I talked with a trucker in Denver that hauls the trailers to and from =
the piggy-back rail terminal.  He said that ten years ago, if the trip =
was more than 50 miles, he had a tire blow out about 50% of the time.  =
The reason is that the tires are carrying the load in only one place on =
the sidewall while on the rail car.

The piggy-back rail cars have since been modified so the axles are =
supported, rather than sitting on the wheels.

Just a thought:  either mount the gear to a bracket, or make sure the =
tires are in good shape after the trip.  It would be the pits to have a =
tire go flat on one of the first flights.

                                                            Jim Vance
                                                            =
Vance@ClaflinWildcats.com

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Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 19:37:10 -0400
To: krnet@mailinglists.org
From: flyKRS@netscape.net (Mr. Bryce Guenther)
Subject: Landing Gear, Alternate Design Concept Comments
Message-ID: <5B090445.1010394B.0006291F@netscape.net>

Greetings: there is a trailing link trailer axle called "Flexride" it is a Rubber torsional axle that for those of us who like to design airplanes and could very easily be adapted as a landing gear for KR's. It does have inherent versitility. Any comments please reply after studying the product that can be seen at http://www.ucfamerica.com/flexride.html . It looks like it is so simple and should of been adapted in aircraft landing gear a long time ago. Appreciate any critical comments! Thanks Bryce Guenther 
-- 
Flying is Fun and a Thrill that nearly nothing else can compare.

__________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 21:09:11 -0400
To: krnet 
From: Brian Kraut 
Subject: Facet fuel pumps
Message-ID: <3D755D37.1020002@earthlink.net>

I installed a new Facet fuel pump on my firewall to give me some extra 
safety on take offs and landings.  When I turned on the fuel valve I 
wasn't getting any fuel flow through the pump while it was off.  I 
removed the pushed in the plunger with a pen.  It was slightly stuck 
closed, but seemed to move free after I gave it the first little nudge. 
 Fuel flowed good after I reinstalled the pump.  Is it normal for these 
to stick a little when they are brand new or do I maybee have a bad pump?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 21:11:40 -0400
To: krnet 
From: Brian Kraut 
Subject: fuel filters
Message-ID: <3D755DCC.20206@earthlink.net>

Are most KR owners using a fuel filter?  I have a finger strainer in the 
tank and the screen in the gascolator, but both are pretty coarse 
filters that won't get out fine particles.  I am pushing the edge of 
good gravity feed now with all the fittings, etc. and would hate to add 
a filter that will restrict my flow even more unless it is necessary.  

I have a Zenith carb.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Sep 2002 21:44:16 -0400
To: krnet 
From: Brian Kraut 
Subject: Zenith mizture adjustment
Message-ID: <3D756570.40806@earthlink.net>

I am almost finished with veneer mixture knob to rotary needle mixture 
screw parts for a Zenith carb.  I will have about two and a half turns 
of mixture adjustment off of a standard vernier mixture knob.  This unit 
will go near the bottom of the carb and be connected to the mixture 
screw with a flex shaft.  I will probably sacrifice a piece from my 
Dremmel flex shaft for this.

I also have a picture of my instrument panel.  I design consoles for 
ships and had our fabricator punch it out of .090 6061 T6 aluminum from 
my AutoCad drawing.  I put on Walnut veneer and stained and varnished it.

Web site is brand new and not near complete.  I will add alot more.

http://home.earthlink.net/~engalt/_wsn/page2.html 


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 21:03:29 -0400
To: 
From: "jim wogaman" 
Cc: 
Subject: trailer stability & tires
Message-ID: <006201c253ae$e2fad720$75c429d1@jeannielobell>

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Back in the 60s a Ford dealer bunged his Mooney West of Columbus on SR =
42 near Plain City. He employed several professional plane =
mechanics/mover to haul it to their shop and repair. He said their =
insurance underwriter would not cover a plane on any trailer unless it =
had more the one axel. I was with him when they moved his plane. =
jwog1@copper.net
cleo :-)

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Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 22:25:34 -0500
To: "KR-Net" 
From: "Mark Jones" 
Subject: Strobe Lights/Compass
Message-ID: <004601c253c2$bb0939a0$c5991f41@wi.rr.com>

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Hello Net Heads,
I just finished installing a Whelen four head strobe unit in my plane. =
After all was said and done I test ran the strobes which operated fine. =
Out of the corner of my eye I noticed the magnetic compass was =
fluctuating and settled about 20 degrees off course. I turned off the =
strobes and the compass returned to correct reading. Any suggestions as =
to why the strobes are fluctuating my compass?

Mark Jones (N886MJ)
Wales, WI  USA=20
E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com
Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at  =20
http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html

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End of krnet Digest
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