From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 25 Oct 2002 16:08:04 -0000 Issue 538 Date: Friday, October 25, 2002 8:10 AM krnet Digest 25 Oct 2002 16:08:04 -0000 Issue 538 Topics (messages 12936 through 12957): Re: more test flight data 12936 by: Brian Kraut 12941 by: Dean Selby Re: Gussets 12937 by: Brian Kraut Re: alternative latching systems 12938 by: Daniel Heath Slick 50 12939 by: Brian Kraut 12940 by: gleone 12948 by: Daniel Heath 12952 by: virgnvs.juno.com 12953 by: Deems Herring 12954 by: GoFlySlow2.aol.com 12955 by: Kenneth L Wiltrout 12957 by: GARYKR2.cs.com wheel pants/climb rate 12942 by: larry flesner FPL-16A 12943 by: larry flesner texas fly in 12944 by: CHOCTAWCWR.aol.com 12956 by: "" To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 20:24:14 -0400 To: Oscar Zuniga From: Brian Kraut CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> more test flight data Message-ID: <3DB73DAE.9000108@earthlink.net> The 5 MPH cruise improvement is about what I would have guessed. The 100 fpm climb improvement surprises me. Is this typical? Anyone else notice a climb improvement? Oscar Zuniga wrote: > Here's the latest from Billy McFarland's flight testing. Results from > adding wheel pants: > ======================================== > >> From: Flymaca711689@aol.com >> My wheel pants did give me 5 mph also climb is 100ft/min better. >> The one thing that I'm really happy about is yaw in turbulence and >> variable winds is a lot better. This was an extra treat to me. >> I wonder if others notice this since it did the same for my hanger >> mate's Pulsar. I'd like to get some feedback on this. Anybody that's >> flown the KR knows what I'm saying- you get tired trying to keep the >> ball centered and just give up and let it dance. Well, I'm on to >> dimple tape to see if I can get just a little more out of the prop. >> I'll keep you posted on my test with the tape. >> Billy McFarland N1055A > > ================================= > > Oscar Zuniga > San Antonio, TX > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN! > http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For > additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 21:12:22 -0500 To: engalt@earthlink.net, Oscar Zuniga From: Dean Selby Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> more test flight data Message-id: <007001c27b02$cb4b3590$6d6974cc@dean> When I added wheel pants if memory serves I not only gained 5-7 MPH and I gained around 100 FPM in climbout but I gained around 400-500 FPM with little or no change in cruise or top speed just with the addition of gap seals on the AS5048 airfoil Just my 2 cents. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" To: "Oscar Zuniga" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2002 7:24 PM Subject: Re: KR> more test flight data > The 5 MPH cruise improvement is about what I would have guessed. The > 100 fpm climb improvement surprises me. Is this typical? Anyone else > notice a climb improvement? > > Oscar Zuniga wrote: > > > Here's the latest from Billy McFarland's flight testing. Results from > > adding wheel pants: > > ======================================== > > > >> From: Flymaca711689@aol.com > >> My wheel pants did give me 5 mph also climb is 100ft/min better. > >> The one thing that I'm really happy about is yaw in turbulence and > >> variable winds is a lot better. This was an extra treat to me. > >> I wonder if others notice this since it did the same for my hanger > >> mate's Pulsar. I'd like to get some feedback on this. Anybody that's > >> flown the KR knows what I'm saying- you get tired trying to keep the > >> ball centered and just give up and let it dance. Well, I'm on to > >> dimple tape to see if I can get just a little more out of the prop. > >> I'll keep you posted on my test with the tape. > >> Billy McFarland N1055A > > > > ================================= > > > > Oscar Zuniga > > San Antonio, TX > > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN! > > http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For > > additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 20:27:49 -0400 From: Brian Kraut CC: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Gussets Message-ID: <3DB73E85.8000804@earthlink.net> I looked in the AC 43.13 after I wrote this yesterday. It says that softwood surfaces to be glued should never be sanded. Is spruce considered a softwood or hardwood? Brian Kraut wrote: > I was a lab assistant in the wood, fabric, and composites lab at > Embry-Riddle in my A+P school days. They tought us in wing rib making > that you should not sand the ends of the sticks for fit. The sawdust > gets in the pores of the wood and keeps you from getting good glue > penetration. You should saw to the correct length and angle. > Supposedly, a file is acceptable. Bigger sawdust that won't fit in > the pores I guess. You also are not rubbing it in like with sanding. > > My personal opinion is that it is probably O.K. to sand. That is the > best way to get a good fit unless you want to play forever with a saw > to get the right angle. I would recommend that you hit all end grain > with a blower on the air compressor to get the sawdust out of the pores. > > As far as the KR is concerned most of the gussets don't add a whole > lot anyway. Once you put the plywood on the sides of the fuselage you > could do without them although I would not recommend it. > > norm-ruth wrote: > >> I used a sanding disk in my table saw and made the gussets with a >> perfect fit in no time at all. >> Actually, I used the permanent type of disk from Sears >> >> Norm Seel norm-ruth@prodigy.net > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For > additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 20:25:32 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time) To: "krnet@mailinglists.org" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: Re: KR> alternative latching systems Message-Id: <3DB7682C.000013.00972@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_KUUG8WA1VA4000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_LUUG36E1VA4000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_LUUG36E1VA4000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE> Can you get me some info on alternative latching systems for the=0D canopy. =0D Jim,=0D I don't know what your canopy looks like, but it you go to http://kr-buil= der org/canopy/index.html and scroll down near the bottom to "canopy latch mechanism", there might be an idea there for you to work with to fit your situation.=0D =0D See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath=0D =0D See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic.=0D =0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG=0D =0D =20 --------------Boundary-00=_LUUG36E1VA4000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

RE> Can you get me some info on alternative la= tching=20 systems for the
canopy.

Jim,

I don't know what your canopy looks like, but it you go to http://kr-builder.= org/canopy/index.html and=20 scroll down near the bottom to "canopy latch mechanism", there migh= t be an=20 idea there for you to work with to fit your situation.

 

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

Da= niel R.=20 Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org  Clic= k on the=20 Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG

&nb= sp;=20

=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMai= l -=20 Email has finally evolved - Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_LUUG36E1VA4000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_KUUG8WA1VA4000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 20:29:42 -0400 To: krnet From: Brian Kraut Subject: Slick 50 Message-ID: <3DB73EF6.5090200@earthlink.net> Is Slick 50 treatment recommended for VW aircraft engines? If so, should it be used on the first break in oil fill or at the first oil change? Not sure how it will act with all the assembly lube, etc. in the engine. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 18:39:33 -0500 To: engalt@earthlink.net From: gleone CC: krnet Subject: Re: KR> Slick 50 Message-ID: <3DB73335.479CEFBC@tritel.net> --------------77E7F0FC8052E43CAE406BD8 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Slick 50 will work but there are better products like "Prolong". It will not hurt the engine and will only help it. HOWEVER, wait until at least 100 hours before adding it so the engine can "break in" properly. Brian Kraut wrote: > Is Slick 50 treatment recommended for VW aircraft engines? If so, > should it be used on the first break in oil fill or at the first oil > change? Not sure how it will act with all the assembly lube, etc. in > the engine. > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files --------------77E7F0FC8052E43CAE406BD8-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 06:35:12 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time) To: "krnet@mailinglists.org" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Slick 50 Message-Id: <3DB7F710.00001C.00972@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_O2NHZJA1VA4000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_P2NHUUF1VA4000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_P2NHUUF1VA4000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE:> Is Slick 50 treatment recommended for VW aircraft engines? =0D Be careful of additives to the oil and of the synthetic oils. Your engin= e is not only air cooled, it is also oil cooled and I have been told that these do not have the same cooling capabilities as does the regular high quality oil.=0D =0D See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath=0D =0D See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic.=0D =0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG=0D =0D =20 --------------Boundary-00=_P2NHUUF1VA4000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

RE:> Is Slick 50 treatment recommended for VW = aircraft=20 engines?

Be careful of additives to the oil and of the synthetic oils.&nb= sp;=20 Your engine is not only air cooled, it is also oil cooled and I hav= e been=20 told that these do not have the same cooling capabilities as does t= he=20 regular high quality oil.

 

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

Da= niel R.=20 Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org  Clic= k on the=20 Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG

&nb= sp;=20

=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMai= l -=20 Email has finally evolved - Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_P2NHUUF1VA4000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_O2NHZJA1VA4000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 14:36:29 -0400 To: danrh@att.net From: virgnvs@juno.com Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Slick 50 Message-ID: <20021024.150517.-370871.1.virgnvs@juno.com> ----__JNP_000_6ab8.3b2a.242e Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=--__JNP_000_35d2.5422.577a This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ----__JNP_000_35d2.5422.577a Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Synthetic oils can run 20 deg cooler !!! AMSOIL has the best quality. Virg NOTE, a biased but true FACT from me, an AMSIOL dealer. Standing tall. On Thu, 24 Oct 2002 06:35:12 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time) "Daniel Heath" writes: RE:> Is Slick 50 treatment recommended for VW aircraft engines? Be careful of additives to the oil and of the synthetic oils. Your engine is not only air cooled, it is also oil cooled and I have been told that these do not have the same cooling capabilities as does the regular high quality oil. See ya in Red Oak --- 2003, Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic. See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG ____________________________________________________ IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here ----__JNP_000_35d2.5422.577a Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
        Synthetic oils can run 20 = deg=20 cooler !!! AMSOIL has the best quality. Virg
NOTE, a biased but true FACT from me, an AMSIOL dealer. Standing=20 tall.
 
On Thu, 24 Oct 2002 06:35:12 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time) "Daniel = Heath"=20 <danrh@att.net> writes:

RE:> Is Slick 50 treatment recommended for VW= =20 aircraft engines?

Be careful of additives to the oil and of the synthetic oils.&= nbsp;=20 Your engine is not only air cooled, it is also oil cooled and I = have=20 been told that these do not have the same cooling capabilities as = does=20 the regular high quality oil.

 

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

= Daniel R.=20 Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org  = Click on=20 the Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG

&= nbsp;=20

<= SPAN=20 id=3DIncrediStamp>____________________________________________________
<= IMG alt=3D""=20 hspace=3D0 src=3D"cid:C9805D4E-F578-479B-B1B8-96A04463CB0A" align=3D= baseline=20 border=3D0>  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved -=20 <= FONT=20 face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D3>Click=20 Here=20
 
----__JNP_000_35d2.5422.577a-- ----__JNP_000_6ab8.3b2a.242e-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 14:49:15 -0500 To: From: "Deems Herring" Subject: Re: KR> Slick 50 Message-ID: <004501c27b96$6ee35be0$7402a8c0@deemsher> ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01C27B6C.85CA3060 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The Question is not the oil temperature but the temperature of the = components the oil is cooling if the oil temperature is reduced because = the oil removes less heat from the engine components this is not good. I = am not saying that Amsoil is not as good, I don't have the data for = that. What I am saying is that the parameter to monitor for air cooled = engines is cylinder head temperature. If cylinder head temperature is = the same or lower with lower oil temperature that is good. If cylinder = head temperature is higher due to less heat transfer to the oil then = that is bad. On water cooled engines the reduced heat transfer is not = significant and the reduced friction of synthetic oil is an advantage. = Do you have any data on cylinder head temperatures for amsoil versus = convetional oil? P. S. I use Amsoil in my cars and trucks so I am definately not = knocking the product.=20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: virgnvs@juno.com=20 To: danrh@att.net=20 Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org=20 Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2002 1:36 PM Subject: Re: KR> Slick 50 Synthetic oils can run 20 deg cooler !!! AMSOIL has the best = quality. Virg NOTE, a biased but true FACT from me, an AMSIOL dealer. Standing tall. re=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01C27B6C.85CA3060-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 16:03:06 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: GoFlySlow2@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Slick 50 Message-ID: <4b.256b5bde.2ae9abfa@aol.com> --part1_4b.256b5bde.2ae9abfa_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yes, Please do reply with any data related to the below. I use Amsoil in my 2 stroke Hirth 65 hp fuel injected engine on U/L Challenger II. I am Loath to change oils (from synt. to Mineral) due to the various problems that have been associated. Yet, I am still interested in the related cooling effects. Chuck http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM > The Question is not the oil temperature but the temperature of the > components the oil is cooling if the oil temperature is reduced because the > oil removes less heat from the engine components this is not good. I am not > saying that Amsoil is not as good, I don't have the data for that. What I > am saying is that the parameter to monitor for air cooled engines is > cylinder head temperature. If cylinder head temperature is the same or > lower with lower oil temperature that is good. If cylinder head temperature > is higher due to less heat transfer to the oil then that is bad. On water > cooled engines the reduced heat transfer is not significant and the reduced > friction of synthetic oil is an advantage. Do you have any data on cylinder > head temperatures for amsoil versus convetional oil? > > P. S. I use Amsoil in my cars and trucks so I am definately not knocking > the product. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: virgnvs@juno.com > To: danrh@att.net > Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org > Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2002 1:36 PM > Subject: Re: KR> Slick 50 > > > Synthetic oils can run 20 deg cooler !!! AMSOIL has the best quality. > Virg > NOTE, a biased but true FACT from me, an AMSIOL dealer. Standing tall. > re > Chuck --part1_4b.256b5bde.2ae9abfa_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 18:07:53 -0400 To: virgnvs@juno.com From: Kenneth L Wiltrout Cc: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Slick 50 Message-ID: <20021024.180754.-391033.0.klw1953@juno.com> I can't pass up this opportunity-------Yes synthetics will lower oil temps, I saw 10 deg's, the engine also leaked so much I had to go back to Castrol 20/50. Just my 2 cents. On Thu, 24 Oct 2002 14:36:29 -0400 virgnvs@juno.com writes: > Synthetic oils can run 20 deg cooler !!! AMSOIL has the best > quality. Virg > NOTE, a biased but true FACT from me, an AMSIOL dealer. Standing > tall. > > On Thu, 24 Oct 2002 06:35:12 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time) "Daniel > Heath" > writes: > RE:> Is Slick 50 treatment recommended for VW aircraft engines? > Be careful of additives to the oil and of the synthetic oils. Your > engine is not only air cooled, it is also oil cooled and I have been > told > that these do not have the same cooling capabilities as does the > regular > high quality oil. > > See ya in Red Oak --- 2003, > > Daniel R. Heath > > See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic. > > See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG > > > > > ____________________________________________________ > IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 12:09:12 EDT To: danrh@att.net, krnet@mailinglists.org From: GARYKR2@cs.com Subject: Re: KR> Slick 50 Message-ID: <11f.18d1eb0f.2aeac6a8@cs.com> In a message dated 10/24/02 6:32:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, danrh@att.net writes: << Be careful of additives to the oil and of the synthetic oils. Your engine is not only air cooled, it is also oil cooled and I have been told that these do not have the same cooling capabilities as does the regular high quality oil. >> I have been following all of the comments about Slick 50, and now the synthetic oil topic. It looks like this is going to go off into La La Land before long. First item: You can destroy the quality of oil by adding additives. All the major brands have anti-wear, anti-scuffing agents and detergents in them. Come on guys, do your homework. Second item: Synthetic oil is better than mineral oil. The wetting properties and film strength is better. Mineral starts to break down when oil temp gets around 450degs. Synthetic will stay stable till 1100degs. Valve stems and cylinder walls normally are over the 450 mark. Why do you think exhaust valves hang up, rings wear? Oil in valve guides cook, oil burns off cylinder walls. And yes, there is a thin film of oil that is to stay on the surface. Otherwise the rings would wear out in about 10 min. Synthetic oil WILL show up as seeps and slow leaks where mineral oil won't. This is due to the wetting of the oil. It goes where other oils won't. Third item: The weight of synthetic oil is better controlled thru out extreme temp changes. Mineral oil weight is controlled with additives, synthetic is engineered in. This information is out there if you look for it. I have talked to the people inside the labs that develop this stuff. Two years ago I had a chance to chat with a rep from Exxon about their new aircraft oil. I brought up the topic of synthetic oil, he told me off the record there is no contest. Synthetic is better. I got the same answer from Pennzoil. I have over 400 hrs on my engine using Mobil 1, 15/50. I run 100LL and have had no problems. A couple of years back there were a couple of problems with lead settling out and forming sludge, but I have not seen any in my engine. The bottom line is, use a brand name oil. Change it at regular intervals (I change every 25hrs) and you will be fine. Also there is a pro race car builder that I fly with, and he agrees that Synthetics are better. That's why the cost more. Gary Hinkle (A/P) Middletown, Pa. garykr2@cs.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 21:14:18 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: wheel pants/climb rate Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021023211418.00867730@mail.midwest.net> Brian Kraut wrote: >The 5 MPH cruise improvement is about what I would have guessed. The >100 fpm climb improvement surprises me. Is this typical? Anyone else >notice a climb improvement? ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ A good friend of mine that is building his own design, land anywhere, semi-aerobatic, high wing , side-by-side, cub type airplane was trying to decide on wheel pant/ no wheel pants when he read somewhere that in addition to an improvement in cruise, pants will increase the climb rate approx 10 percent. So I guess that sounds about right. My guess is that you need less power to hold the same airspeed (less drag) in climb so the extra power goes toward a better climb rate. Example, my Tripacer has a zero climb rate at full power and 125 miles per hour. It takes full power to maintain altitude at that speed. If I pitch up for climb, I'll lose airspeed. If I add wheel pants and could now do 130 mph, I could establish a positive climb at 125 mph. Same thing at a lower airspeed. You have more power available at a given airspeed to improve your climb rate. Clear as mud, right? Larry Flesner Carterville, Illinois, USA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 21:14:39 -0500 To: From: larry flesner Subject: FPL-16A Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021023211439.008686a0@mail.midwest.net> At 06:22 PM 10/23/02 -0500, Ed Janssen wrote: >As with Recorcinol (which is brown), I think the only objectionable >characteristic of FPL-16A is the white color. >Ed ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If you are going to paint the inside of the fuselage, it's a non issue. Anywhere else on the project it will not show. I used FPL16-A and found it to be very workable. Don't mix over 5 or 10 tablespoons of glue at a time in hot weather. It will "flash" real quick on you. I used measuring spoons and would put 5 tablespoons of part one in small baby food jars. Have as many jars of part one ready as you want but only mix 1/2 tablespoon of part 2 in each jar as you are ready to use it. I used a small medicine dispenser to fill the spoons and washed them with lacure thinner when finished. A small solder flux brush makes a real good applicator. It's a bit runny so add a small amount of flox if needed to keep it from running, or , coat both pieces and allow to set for a few minutes before bringing the pieces together. Apply little if any pressure on the joint. I read somewhere, maybe on the can, saying not to make a "cured glue to cured glue" joint. Just to check it out I took extra glue from a batch and painted to pieces of wood. I let them cure and later with another batch of glue I glued these two pieces together. After curing, I did a sheer test and broke nothing but wood. The glue joint held. I'm not recommending this for construction but this stuff is good. For those that care, FPL16-A was developed by (F)orest (P)roducts (L)abratories and is formula 16-A. There is an article in the EAA "Building With Wood" book that tells all about it and gives rating charts comparing it to other glues. It is highly rated. I just got a new scanner so maybe I could shoot the article to Mark and he could post it on his site. Remind me in a couple days. Larry Flesner Carterville, Illinois, USA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 22:29:59 EDT To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: CHOCTAWCWR@aol.com Subject: texas fly in Message-ID: <170.1601211e.2ae8b527@aol.com> --part1_170.1601211e.2ae8b527_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit is anyone planning on attending the annual fly in at REKLAW, TX, it is 16 miles west of nacogdoches. it is this weekend, good grass strip, usually over 200 planes of every description. most camp in tents or rv's, they have a shuttle to town for the softies who want a motel, meals served for modest price, this isnt an advertisement as i have nothing to do with it, i just know it is a great fly in and would like to see some kr's there, charles robison atlanta, tx --part1_170.1601211e.2ae8b527_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 18:58:58 -0400 (EDT) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "" Cc: Subject: RE: KR> texas fly in Message-Id: <20021024225858.7A488B6E7@xmxpita.excite.com> --EXCITEBOUNDARY_000__b16e84db75770c97ef25d3d140f76251 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I aree it is one of the best fly ins i have been to. last year ther was over 200 aiarcraft of all types .The year before ther was one kr2 from longview tx.Maybe he will make a showing .many home built will be there.You can count on it.--- On Wed 10/23, < CHOCTAWCWR@aol.com > wrote: From: [mailto: CHOCTAWCWR@aol.com]To: krnet@mailinglists.orgDate: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 22:29:59 EDTSubject: KR> texas fly inis anyone planning on attending the annual fly in at REKLAW, TX, it is 16 miles west of nacogdoches. it is this weekend, good grass strip, usually over 200 planes of every description. most camp in tents or rv's, they have a shuttle to town for the softies who want a motel, meals served for modest price, this isnt an advertisement as i have nothing to do with it, i just know it is a great fly in and would like to see some kr's there, charles robison atlanta, tx _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! --EXCITEBOUNDARY_000__b16e84db75770c97ef25d3d140f76251-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 22:43:19 -0400 To: "Jeff York" From: "jim wogaman" Cc: "cartera" , "hennie van `rooyan" Subject: Re: KR> Thank you Cartera/ Robert / Virg and KRnet Message-ID: <003c01c27b07$1e833ce0$90c429d1@jeannielobell> Jeff: People that would believe your questions are stupid are rather "short sighted", impatient and uncaring. They are best left out of it! There's plenty of the other type connected. Engines require care. You take care of yourself and your engine. THis net is a gret group! jim wogaman cleo :-) ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff York To: Cc: Sent: October 23, 2002 9:22 AM Subject: Re: KR> Thank you Cartera/ Robert / Virg and KRnet > Thank you , thank you, thank you, > > Cartera, Robert C, Virg and KRnet. > > During my annual inspection I found that I had a problem with my engines > compression. On cylinders 1 and 2. > > So I tossed out a request for assistance on the Krnet. > > Cartera, Robert C. and Virg gave me several great idea's on things to check > before I started tearing down the engine. And special thanks to Cartera who > hit the nail on the head. > > Thanks to him I found that the torque on my head bolts was not to spec. > After re-torque of the heads, bingo the compression was back where it was > suppose to be. And when I went to start the engine, it started easier then > it had ever started before. And I thought I was having problems getting it > to start because of the manual choke. > > So, I am also glad that the FAA has us do annual inspections. It can allow > us to find hidden problems. But more thankful I have this forum for help. > > Sometimes I hesitated to put a question on the net in fear of thinking my > question was stupid. But I learned a long time ago that the difference > between success and failure was not admitting when you don't have the answer > and failing to go to the person that does. > > So you guys that are thinking of building, or that have gotten stuck > building, be thankful you have this forum, use it to get your help and get > your project completed. > > I sure wish I had it on my last project. > > Now, get the answers you need from this forum and get back to that project > and finish it. > > Thank you, thank you, thank you > > > > > > > >From: cartera > >To: Jeff York > >Subject: Re: KR> Up Flying > >Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 18:29:35 -0600 > > > >Hi Jeff, > >That's a good plan, sure do a leak test but maybe do the compression > >test as well after the tightening of the heads however this my not > >do it for you then you can take it off and see what the hell is causing > >the problem. Just a little piece of anything can do it to interfere > >with proper seating, also if you have to take the head off make sure > >you check the height of the barrels, all you need is a few thou to > >upset to throw it off. Your right, we all learn from each other without > >any flaming is the only way to go because not one of us knows every- > >thing. Take Care and Good Luck! Torque values may be different, of > >course use the one for your engine, mine is for the 1835cc forgot > >you engine is different. ;). > > > >Jeff York wrote: > > > > > > Well, it has been a little while since I rebuilt and worked on engines. > >And > > > I have to think differently when it comes to these engines with a head > > > mounted on top of a jug vs a head mounted on a cast block. But it does > >make > > > sense when you think about your statement regarding the head not being > > > seated and the fact that it is both cylinders on one side. And yes I > > > learned the hard way several years ago about getting around aluminum > >engines > > > without a torque wrench. > > > > > > I will try your advice, (I hope tonight) and check the head bolts. > >Another > > > Krnet'r advised me to try a compression leakage test and I realized I > >have > > > the tool to do this with. But the head bolts should be checked first. > > > > > > I assume that the torque specks you gave me are the same as the ones I > >will > > > find in my GPAS manual. > > > > > > Again thanks for your help and keep it coming. > > > > > > I have found the secret to success is, admit went you don't know the > >answer. > > > don't guess. Be honest about it to yourself and others. Be humble and > >ask > > > someone that knows. > > > > > > This has worked in my career, when I am driving on a trip, when I am > >with my > > > wife and when I fly an airplane. If you don't humble yourself and ask > > > someone that knows, You can lose your job, get lost on a trip have your > > > wife divorce you and when flying an airplane, you could lose your life > >and > > > someone else's. > > > > > > Keep that great help coming, > > > > > > Jeff York > > > > > > >From: cartera > > > >To: Jeff York > > > >Subject: Re: KR> Up Flying > > > >Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2002 12:00:04 -0600 > > > > > > > >Hi Jeff, > > > >You may be jumping the gun here because your not really sure what the > > > >cause is, it may not be the valves, you may also take the valve covers > > > >off and just rotate the prop and look at the valve lifters if all of > > > >them (4) go just a far down and then rest in the same position, then > > > >the valve train appears OK. Now there is another problem, your head > > > >may not be seating like it should this has happened before to me. > > > >Or, make sure you use a torque wrench and try all your lugs or rods > > > >that hold everything together, are they 8mm or 10mm should be 10mm. > > > >It's a slow methodical process, so don't get discouraged, personally > > > >I have a suspicion that the head is not seating properly, because it > > > >is both cylinders on one side. Good Luck and let us know how you make > > > >out! Don't go around that engine without a torque wrench in your hand. > > > >Attached is a torque chart from Rex Taylor if you don't know who that > > > >is, it used to be HAPI. > > > >Adrian > > > > > > > >Jeff York wrote: > > > > > > > > > > That is the strange thing. It runs as smooth as silk. I would have > >never > > > > > guessed that the compression tests would come out this way. I > >actually > > > >did > > > > > them several times, rechecking the bank that was giving good > >readings > > > >and > > > > > then checking the other bank. Always with the same results, low > > > >compression > > > > > on one side. > > > > > > > > > > The last time I flew the plane it ran fine, that was a couple months > > > >ago. > > > > > The only thing that I have ever noticed is that it's a bit-h to > >start > > > >when > > > > > it's cold. But I don't have a primer and I have always found manual > > > >choke > > > > > engines are more difficult to start. It takes to many blades to kick > > > >over. > > > > > > > > > > I hope to get out of the office tonight at a descent time and get > >back > > > >to > > > > > the hanger. I will try the oil in the cylinders to eliminate the > >rings. > > > >I > > > > > stopped by Sears yesterday and bought a valve lapping tool and > >spring > > > >tool. > > > > > I hope to just find excessive carbon built up on the valves. > > > > > > > > > > If you have additional feedback please let me know. > > > > > > > > > > Jeff York > > > > > N839BG > > > > > > > > > > >From: cartera > > > > > >To: Jeff York > > > > > >CC: krnet@mailinglists.org > > > > > >Subject: Re: KR> Up Flying > > > > > >Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2002 15:16:08 -0600 > > > > > > > > > > > >Hello Gang, > > > > > >Want to make a few points here and hopefully enlighten some of the > > > > > >misconceptions. Compression test, it looks like there is too much > > > > > >of a differential there one side is half the pressure of the other, > > > > > >not very smooth running, as Verge mentioned a bit of oil in each > >low > > > > > >cylinder is an indication if it comes up that the problem may lie > >in > > > > > >the rings if no change is evident then it probably will be in the > > > > > >valves/seats. Carbon often builds on the the seats and then don't > > > > > >seal properly. In a car with a down draft carb it's easy by putting > > > > > >in a carbon remover, however with a updraft carb it a bit not > >difficult > > > > > >but you can put some in the cylinder through the plug holes and let > > > > > >it sit at least over night. If the pressure comes up to within 20 > >lbs. > > > > > >of the good cylinders, you've won. If not then your due for a top > > > > > >cylinder repair. > > > > > >Do not fly with this deferential because something will give > > > > > >and you may dead stick it. > > > > > >Now for carb ice: Every carb works on the Bernoulli principle, > >which > > > > > >states: as velocity increases, pressure drops and heat loss is > > > > > >experienced within the air entering the venturi in your carb. Ice > > > >builds > > > > > >at the opening and at the end of the venturi and is somewhat > >dependent > > > > > >on the relative humidity in the air. At just about all outside air > > > > > >temperatures carb ice can occur. If you had a point of temperature > > > > > >sensor in your carb (which some aircraft have) you would be amazed > >how > > > > > >cold it gets in there. Therefore, ice we fly and a lot of times it > >does > > > > > >not affect us and we don't know that we are carrying ice, but it > > > >happens > > > > > >on every flight. One should always use a bit of heat when rpm falls > > > > > >below 2000. I have always used a bit of carb heat at appropriate > >times > > > > > >even in cruise and occasional bit of carb heat, not all the time > >but > > > > > >a bit for a few minutes or so, keep an eye on the rpm which is a > >good > > > > > >indicator of some ice build. Never, never pull the carb heat on > >full > > > > > >because you will set yourself up for a dead stick landing. The ice > > > > > >releases at once and flames out the engine. Just a bit at a time > >and > > > > > >give it time to slowly melt out. Hope this will help some to > >understand > > > > > >some of the physics of carb operation. Take Care, Happy Building > >and > > > > > >Flying! Fly the AIRPLANE! > > > > > > > > > > > >Adrian VE6AFY > > > > > >cartera@cuug.ab.ca > > > > > >http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera > > > > > > > > > > > >Jeff York wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Can anyone tell me what they are getting in their compression > >checks > > > >on > > > > > > > their 2180 GPAS? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > During my annual inspect, I noticed that cylinders 1 and 2 are > >much > > > > > >lower > > > > > > > then 3 and 4. UNless my gauge is screwed up. Cylinders 3 and 4 > >are > > > > > >reading > > > > > > > about 120 psi. 1 and 2 are reading about 60 psi. This test was > >done > > > > > >after > > > > > > > running the engine long enough to bring oil temps up. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I am running with zenith carb and a mag ignition. The engine > >only > > > >has > > > > > >about > > > > > > > 55 hours. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I checked the tappet clearance and then ran the test again with > > > >little > > > > > >to no > > > > > > > difference. Although It did seem that the tappet clearance on 1 > >and > > > >2 > > > > > >was to > > > > > > > tight so I re-set it to a tight 8 loose 6 per the GPAS manual. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I am thinking I have a head that needs the valves re ground. Am > >I > > > >going > > > > > >in > > > > > > > the right direction? Is there a method to checking the > >compression > > > >on a > > > > > >GPAS > > > > > > > that is different then the 4 stroke auto engines I have worked > >on in > > > >the > > > > > > > past. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I once worked on a Ford 4 cylinder years ago that had tappets > >out of > > > > > > > adjustment. I thought I was going to have to pull the head > >because > > > >of a > > > > > >low > > > > > > > compression problem. An old mechanic told me that it could be > >carbon > > > > > >build > > > > > > > up on the exhaust valve and to run the engine for a while and > >the > > > >carbon > > > > > > > would release and the compression would come back up. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > He was right. I can't remember everything he had me do, but it > > > >worked. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Is this possible? Or am I just dreaming? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > You 2180 or VW long timers give me the scoop. I don't think it > >would > > > >be > > > > > > > rings because that should show as over all low compression on > >all > > > > > >cylinders, > > > > > > > or oil blow by from a damaged oil ring, signs of cylinder > >pressure > > > > > >getting > > > > > > > into the crankcase. > > > > > > > I am not looking for a quick fix. Those never worked on auto > >engines > > > >in > > > > > >the > > > > > > > past. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I just want to be sure I am going in the right direction and if > > > >others > > > > > >have > > > > > > > had this problem, what steps or things do I need to do to > >prevent > > > >this > > > > > >from > > > > > > > happening again in the future. > > > > > > > Jeff > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ > > > > > > > Surf the Web without missing calls! Get MSN Broadband. > > > > > > > http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > >all" > > > > > > > > > > > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > > > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > > > > > > > > > > > See the KRNet archives at > >http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > > > > > > > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > > > > > > > > > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > >all" > > > > > > > > > > > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > > > > >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > > > > > > > > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > > > > > >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > > > Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online > > > > > http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 > > > ><< Torques.jpg >> > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > Choose an Internet access plan right for you -- try MSN! > > > http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp > > > >-- > >Adrian VE6AFY > >Calgary, Alberta > >Mailto:cartera@cuug.ab.ca > >http://www.cuug.ab.ca/~cartera > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get faster connections -- switch to MSN Internet Access! > http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 20:18:19 -0500 To: From: "Justin" Subject: KR2S 40MK Message-ID: <000801c27afb$3d61e140$77c61b42@socal.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C27AD1.5437ECE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable What are the flying specs on that airplane. Also why the wingtips?? Any = speed advantage off those?? Is this airplane plans build beyond those = wingtips? Justin ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C27AD1.5437ECE0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 23:41:13 -0400 To: "KR Net" From: "Darren Pond" Subject: KR seats Message-ID: HI all I just did a search on KR seats and the Carbon fibre seat looks very appealing but the KR sling seat all so won high praise. My soon to be new old Kr2, two previous owners and 375 hours C-GGGW, had a plywood seat and the last owner removed it. So which seat is easier, light, safer and to split the difference cheaper. IF the sling seat is still an option what do you make the sling with. Must admit the foam'cabon fibre seat with a high back sounds the best! Darren Pond CF-VML Taylor Mono plane almost flying. C-GGGW KR2 1835vw come to airport near you this spring PondHopper 2 place 2.2 turbo (building stage) Cambridge Ont Canada pond27@rogers.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 09:49:18 -0400 To: taildrags@hotmail.com, krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Jeff York" Subject: Re: KR> dimple tape and Gap seal tape Message-ID: Is there anyone out there that has used gap seals on their KR2? Have they seen better performance numbers? Higher cruise? better climb? lower stall speed? This stuff looks like it would be very easy to install and a very inexpensive speed mod. Jeff York N839BG >From: "Oscar Zuniga" >To: krnet@mailinglists.org >Subject: KR> dimple tape >Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 08:49:35 -0500 > >Jeff asks, > >>Where can I get the 3M dimple tape? > >Well, I don't know about the 3M brand, but the sailplane guys use the stuff >available at http://www.wingsandwheels.com/page29.htm and at least one >other source used to be Leading Edge Airfoils, an ultralight supplier, at >http://www.leadingedge-airfoils.com/ > >Oscar Zuniga >San Antonio, TX >mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com >website at http://www.flysquirrel.net > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free!  Try MSN. >http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional >commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files _________________________________________________________________ Internet access plans that fit your lifestyle -- join MSN. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/default.asp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 09:21:26 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: gap seal tape Message-ID: Jeff asks: >Is there anyone out there that has used gap seals on their KR2? >Have they seen better performance numbers? Higher cruise? better >climb? lower stall speed? Again, I would encourage you to go to the archives and search on "gap seals"... there are 65 posts related to this. Here's a snip from one: >Jeff Scott has experimented with aileron gap seals (underside of wing) on >his KR-2S with stock airfoil and C-85 power, and found no >significant benefit. He was quite thorough in his testing of climb, >cruise, and stall... so I'm not sure there is any gain in sealing the >lower gaps on the stock wing. Now the "made-for-KR" AS50XX-series >wings may indeed show some improvement with gap seals. Paul Martin also experimented with the seals on his RAF48-airfoil, stock KR2 with trigear and 1835 VW and found no improvement. However, the numbers prove that they DO help airplanes with the "new" wing. See Dean Selby's posts related to the improvement in performance on his airplane, and the numbers generated when Troy Petteway flew his KR with the new wing and gap seals. Troy's airplane had much performance data "before and after", so there is a definite and proven gain using gap seals with the AS50XX-series wing. Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 10:40:23 -0400 To: From: "Audrey and Harold Woods" Subject: Re epoxy FPL-16A Message-ID: <005101c27b6b$49393c00$b0046418@baol.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01C27B49.C1EDA040 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have given this apoxy several days thought. I am not questioning the = strength of the 828/amine system used. The solvents used are my concern. = They are being used to thin the thick shell 828. The solvents become = entraped in the hardened matrix then they diffuse out leaving a = molecular porosity. This will not make the joint weaker but remember = that these large molecules leave spaces that can be entered by smaller = water molecules, gasoline etc. I want my epoxy surfaces to be = impermiable to water and oxygen to prevent dry rot. If you want the shell 828 thinner add a reactive dilutant before adding = the hardener.An example is Epoxide Number 7. It can be used up to 10%. = How do you think Shell gets their thinner epoxy resins? If you use too = much epoxide #7 the resin will not set up. I clean and store old epoxy = brushes in a jar of epoxide #7. Some times I get a year on one brush = until the day comes when I forget to clean it. I have tried many = different epoxies, the Gudgean Brothers is the best for most = applications. If you are building wooden wing ribs using and have steam or hot water = bent the ends of the ribs use a Shell or Dow epoxy with a Versamid 140 = amine hardener.It is slow in setting up but it has one astounding = property, it adheres very well to wet wood. If in doubt make up a mix, = take two blocks of wood, run them under hot water for one minute, wipe = of the wet surface with you finger, apply the epoxy, very lightly clamp. = Inspect in 24 to 48 hours. Harold Woods. Orillia ON Can. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.406 / Virus Database: 229 - Release Date: 10/21/02 ------=_NextPart_000_004E_01C27B49.C1EDA040-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************