From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 1 Nov 2002 11:37:46 -0000 Issue 542 Date: Friday, November 01, 2002 3:40 AM krnet Digest 1 Nov 2002 11:37:46 -0000 Issue 542 Topics (messages 13003 through 13018): Spruce vs other 13003 by: Pedro Pinzón 13013 by: van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02) 13014 by: Daniel Heath 13018 by: Eduardo José Jankosz Re: Further to the 'Home Made' Foam Idea 13004 by: Jeff York Kr wing washout 13005 by: larry flesner KR certification, obtain DAR's credentials from FAA in new program if you have A&P and 100 hrs flying time! 13006 by: Mr. Bryce Guenther KR1 warbirds 13007 by: Daren Cogdon 13008 by: larry flesner obtain DAR's credentials 13009 by: larry flesner Back in the air again 13010 by: GoFlySlow2.aol.com 13012 by: Mark Langford bench and plans KR2S 13011 by: Oscar Zuniga com antenna placement 13015 by: Bob Smith 13016 by: Mark Langford Antenna Placement 13017 by: JIM VANCE Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 09:25:09 -0400 To: From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Pedro_Pinz=F3n?= Subject: Spruce vs other Message-ID: <001101c28017$c6948320$b23efea9@propeca.net> ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C27FF6.3DF42CD0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi guys. I just received the plans for my KR2S, although I have studied the plane = for long. I am located at Venezuela, and in fact it=B4s too difficult to obtain = spruce here. On the other hand, Caribean Pine and other species are = abundant here. Do anyone knows about the use of other wood species different to spuce = in structural parts for KR2 plane?. Some recommendation?. Pedro Pinzon Puerto la Cruz ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C27FF6.3DF42CD0-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 23:15:36 -0600 To: "'krnet@mailinglists.org'" From: "van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02)" Subject: RE: KR> Spruce vs other Hi Pedro, In South Africa the use of either Saligna (I don't know if this is what = it's called over there, but it is the kind of wood that's mostly used for scaffold planking) or clear Origon is legal and also widely used in homebuilt aircraft construction - hope this helps. Hennie "I am located at Venezuela, and in fact it=B4s too difficult to obtain spruce here. On the other hand, Caribean Pine and other species are abundant here. Do anyone knows about the use of other wood species different to spuce in structural parts for KR2 plane?. Some recommendation?. Pedro Pinzon Puerto la Cruz" ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 06:11:25 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: "krnet@mailinglists.org" From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: Spruce VS Other Message-Id: <3DC13A0D.000003.01408@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_1FNUG6G0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_2FNUBHK0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_2FNUBHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We had a very long thread on this subject sometime earlier this year, so = I think that if you look in the archives, you may be able to find all you n= eed to know on the subject.=0D =0D You will note that this statement appears on the bottom of every post to = the KR Net.=0D =0D See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp=0D or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files=0D =0D See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath=0D =0D See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic.=0D =0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG=0D =0D =20 --------------Boundary-00=_2FNUBHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We had a very long thread on this subject sometime earlier thi= s year,=20 so I think that if you look in the archives, you may be able to fin= d all=20 you need to know on the subject.
 
You will note that this statement appears on the bottom of eve= ry post=20 to the KR Net.
 
See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyh= ome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
or=20 http://www.bouyea.net/ for the W= ord=20 files

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

Da= niel R.=20 Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org  Clic= k on the=20 Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG

&nb= sp;
=20

=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMai= l -=20 Email has finally evolved -
Click=20 Here
--------------Boundary-00=_2FNUBHK0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_1FNUG6G0000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 08:39:49 -0200 To: "krnet" From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Eduardo_Jos=E9_Jankosz?=" Subject: Re: KR> Spruce vs other Message-Id: <200211011139.gA1BdXsB069734@cwbone.bsi.com.br> Hennie? This Saligna does not would be a specimen of Eucalyptus (natural from Austrália)? I know Eucalyptus saligna, a tree with a thick skin and a red wood! Is this? Thank you!!!!! Eduardo José Jankosz jankosz@bsi.com.br http://www.bsi.com.br/cbcb http://br.groups.yahoo.com/group/kr2-brasil Curitiba - PR - BRASIL ---------- > De: van Rooyen, Hennie(SF02) > Para: 'krnet@mailinglists.org' > Assunto: RE: KR> Spruce vs other > Data: Quinta-feira, 31 de Outubro de 2002 03:15 > > Hi Pedro, > > In South Africa the use of either Saligna (I don't know if this is what it's > called over there, but it is the kind of wood that's mostly used for > scaffold planking) or clear Origon is legal and also widely used in > homebuilt aircraft construction - hope this helps. > > Hennie > > > > > "I am located at Venezuela, and in fact it´s too difficult to obtain > spruce here. On the other hand, Caribean Pine and other species are > abundant here. > > Do anyone knows about the use of other wood species different to spuce > in structural parts for KR2 plane?. Some recommendation?. > > Pedro Pinzon > Puerto la Cruz" > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 08:47:17 -0500 To: pjohnson@voyageur.ca, krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Jeff York" Subject: Re: KR> Further to the 'Home Made' Foam Idea Message-ID: Would love to see some pictures of this process. If you have them posted to a website, let me know where it's URL. Jeff >From: "Peter Johnson" >To: >Subject: KR> Further to the 'Home Made' Foam Idea >Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 00:19:18 -0800 > >I was interupted before I could finish the previous email (we still have >bears wandering around here). > >Oncethe canopy/windshield skin is braced, I'll cut the skin out in way of >the acrylic windshield/gullwing door. The old plug will be cut to provide >a male form to form the acrylic over. The molded acrylic will then be >placed in the framework and glassed in as per the usual process. > >(I had to say the above, it substantiated the work I put into forming the >plug! hahaha) > >Goodnight everybody. > >mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca _________________________________________________________________ Surf the Web without missing calls! Get MSN Broadband. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/freeactivation.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 08:32:20 -0600 To: "KR Net Listings" From: larry flesner Subject: Kr wing washout Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021030083220.0088d100@mail.midwest.net> At 08:14 AM 10/30/02 +1100, Phillip Matheson wrote: >I'm trying to check the wash out in my half made( by someone else) moulded Dan Diehl Wing Skins. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If you are unsure of the rib markings (level lines), I'd use the cord lines. Beg, borrow, steal, or buy a "Smartlevel" digital level. Attach some type of wood strip to the cord line for the level to rest on, set your 48 inch rib cord line to 3.5 degrees (or whatever you want) and then move the "Smartlevel" to the 36 inch rib cord line. Set it for the amount of washout you want, finish your rear spar fittings, and attach (glue) the 36 inch rib to hold the washout. You should then be ready to attach the skins. Can you attach the top skin first (spars still jigged) and let it cure before attaching the bottom skin to further insure the wing holds it's shape? I scratch built my wings so I'm not familar with the pre-molded skins but the above is basiclly the route I took. I don't remember my rib drawings having "level" lines. They only had cord lines and spars drawn on them. When I built my ribs, I bolted them together and fininshed them to shape to insure uniformity, drew the markings accross the edges before separating them and then drew the lines on each rib from these referance marks. That's the only way I could see to get them all the same. Good luck. Larry Flesner Carterville, Illinois, USA Red Oak 2000 or bust!!! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 16:05:48 -0500 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: flyKRS@netscape.net (Mr. Bryce Guenther) Subject: KR certification, obtain DAR's credentials from FAA in new program if you have A&P and 100 hrs flying time! Message-ID: <25ADA48C.139C4186.0006291F@netscape.net> The FAA recently announced the desire to have more DAR's to certify homebuilt aircraft because of their lack of adequate personel to do the inspections. If you know your KR is going to be finished soon and you don't want to wait 6 months for the few DAR's available. The FAA has yielded to EAA request to reduce the waiting time. A person who has a A&P and 100 hrs of flying time and a few other tidd bits of experience can take a FAA course and become a DAR. Just like that! Tell your friends and talk it up withothers in your area maybe someone will be interested in becoming a DAR in your region and this may help expediate certification of your KR. We might get a DAR who is KR specific and get more KR's in the air. Does any one like that job just look it up on the FAA web site or EAA site for further directions. -- Flying is Fun and a Thrill that nearly nothing else can compare. __________________________________________________________________ The NEW Netscape 7.0 browser is now available. Upgrade now! http://channels.netscape.com/ns/browsers/download.jsp Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 22:44:15 +0000 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Daren Cogdon" Subject: KR1 warbirds Message-ID: Hi I'm new to the list and, although I haven't got my KR1 yet, I'm very interested in building one! Has anyone modified a KR1/2 into a sort of warbird lookalike? I would want to make my version into some sort of Luftwaffe-type warbird (razorback fuselage etc) but wanted to know if anyone had done anything similar. Let me know if anyone comes up with something!!! Daren (UK) _________________________________________________________________ Unlimited Internet access -- and 2 months free!  Try MSN. http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 18:11:30 -0600 To: "Daren Cogdon" ,krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> KR1 warbirds Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021030181130.008906f0@mail.midwest.net> At 10:44 PM 10/30/02 +0000, Daren Cogdon wrote: >Has anyone modified a KR1/2 into a sort of warbird lookalike? I would want >to make my version into some sort of Luftwaffe-type warbird (razorback >fuselage etc) but wanted to know if anyone had done anything similar. >Daren ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Daren, Do a "google" search for "W.A.R." replicas. They have 4 or 5 models built basicly on a KR fuselage. Some look really good. they claime to be 1/2 scale. There are a number of sites out there with pictures. I personally like the Coursair but they all look great. Most use 0-200 or a Lyc 0-235 or similar 100 to 125 hp engine and cruise about 135mph or so. Larry Flesner Carterville, Illinois, USA P.S. Do you know a KR builder/pilot named Willie Wilson, a retired British Airways captain? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 18:30:18 -0600 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: obtain DAR's credentials Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021030183018.00891560@mail.midwest.net> Mr. Bryce Guenther wrote: A person who has a A&P and 100 hrs of flying time and a few other tidd bits of experience can take a FAA course and become a DAR. Just like that! +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Bryce, I'm afraid there is a bit more to it than that. You need to be a licensed A&P, have built an aircraft that has gone through three annual condition inspections (the 100 hours, if that is a requirement, is for the airplane, not the inspector) , you have to get four letters of reference, two technical and two personal, and then attend two training courses (one at Oshkosh, one at FAA ??) and the courses have not even been written yet. The program goes in effect on Dec.30, 2002 but don't look to have a bunch of new D.A.R.'s out there real soon. I just wrote a letter of reference for a good friend of mine that has decided to apply. The number of D.A.R.'s certified for any particular area may be limited and the D.A.R.'s will be limited to inspections in a specified geographic area. At this point there are still more questions than answers but I for one hope it all works out. Some of the inspectors that have come to our area just as well have been carrying a gun for the prices they charged. The EAA home page has some info, I think at the very bottom of the page. I haven't read it but got my info from my friend that has looked in to the program. Larry Flesner Carterville, Illinois, USA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 22:15:08 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: GoFlySlow2@aol.com Subject: Back in the air again Message-ID: <6d.1145900.2af1fa3c@aol.com> --part1_6d.1145900.2af1fa3c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit some pics after new gear installation and 2180cc VW upgrade. http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM/KR_2_3smpix.jpg http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM/Bank_KR_2_sm_pix.jpg http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM/KR_2_inflight_1_1smpix.jpg http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM/KR_2_6.jpg Chuck Scrivner KR-2 Pics --part1_6d.1145900.2af1fa3c_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 21:56:33 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Back in the air again Message-ID: <047401c28091$80e2ddc0$0100a8c0@TD310> Chuck Scrivner wrote: > some pics after new gear installation and 2180cc VW upgrade. OUTSTANDING! I'd have even enjoyed taking the pictures, but better yet, FLYING the thing! Must be nice! Looks great! I had better luck with these links below. The trip is well worth it! http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM/KR_2_3smpix.jpg http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM/Bank_KR_2_sm_pix.jpg http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM/KR_2_inflight_1_1smpix.jpg http://www.angelfire.com/biz6/MFM/KR_2_6.jpg http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/ChuckScrivner.html Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 21:50:46 -0600 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: bench and plans KR2S Message-ID: Justin writes: >How long should the bench be for the fuselage on the KR2S?? Allow yourself a construction table at least as long as the finished fuselage plus a little bit, but not so long that you are bending far over the edge to reach the work. You'll be fitting lots of gussets and gluing lots of joints, and it gets wearisome leaning out over the work. What it usually works out to is some multiple of a 4x8 sheet of plywood, or whatever your spouse or landlord will allow ;o) >The builders manual is rather for the know what your doing or not be >able to build this airplane. Ah, but that's why the KRNet exists. The manual, plus the KRNet, plus lots of detailed builders' sites with pictures and commentary, makes it a doable project for someone who just can't get that dream out of their head. >In the manual is says to draw a line on yrou table, it doesnt say >where on the table that line shoudl go. Typically everything in the layout, whether it's the wings, sides, or whatever, has to be mirrored about a centerline or measured off of a straight line. In the case you're referring to, building the two fuselage sides, the straight line is the edge of the top longeron. The exception to this is if you're building curves to the top longeron such that when the sides are bent to form the fuselage, the top edge ends up perfectly level. If the sides are built with the top longerons dead level, the top edges will bow when the sides are bent (the so-called "banana boat" effect). Rather than worry about this, just draw a straight line like the plans say and reference the top longeron to it. You'll be building two sides almost identically over the same lines. You'll need nice, straight lines to reference dimensions to so your sides will end up identical and square. Then, when they are bent into place and the fuselage is jigged up, it will all be square and true and the plane will both fly straight and track straight on the ground. If you don't lay out the first lines on your table nice and true, you'll end up being frustrated all through the building process as things don't fit right, don't line up, or end up just a teeny bit out of square and funny looking. Or worse. There are plenty of excellent sites out there that have pictures showing both building tables and fuselage sides being built. Just go to http://www.krnet.org and start down the links to KRs 'under construction'. A very good example is Trent Flemming's site, at http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hall/9098/fuselage.html which will tell you everything I just said above, in a few pictures. Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _________________________________________________________________ Unlimited Internet access for only $21.95/month.  Try MSN! http://resourcecenter.msn.com/access/plans/2monthsfree.asp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 20:45:34 -0500 To: From: "Bob Smith" Subject: com antenna placement Message-ID: <001001c28148$5fca0a20$f006c218@nycap.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C2811E.75F09BE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi KR gang! You may remember me from a few years ago.....Bob Smith in NY. My KR = project has been collecting dust at the stage where I left it = last.....boat done, spars done, tail mostly done, canopy waiting for a = frame design. Distractions including job, family, etc seem to have = sapped my motivation but I'm trying to get remotivated and I'm trying to = get some serious progress done this winter. I've been flying a bit this = summer so at least those skills are still around. Could you please help me with this one small problem? ( I tried to = search the archives but they wouldn't come up) I bought the RST antenna foil and would like to install the com antenna = dipole in the vstab under the glass. RST says you can't put the tips of = the foil within 1/4 wavelength (about 20 inches) of any metal 12 inches = long. RST shows a nice backwards "s" shaped antenna diagram to put it in = the vstab. But in a KR, the bottom of the "s" must come within 5 inches = of the metal elevator cable as it runs forward a few inches through the = aft deck. Is this acceptable? Has anyone done it this way and got it to work well?=20 I've seen Mark's "arrow shaft" antenna design. Why bother putting one = dipole in an arrow shaft???? Thanks in advance for any info. Bob Smith, Albany, NY ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C2811E.75F09BE0-- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 20:41:51 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> com antenna placement Message-ID: <048801c28150$3b9f5620$0100a8c0@TD310> Bob Smith wrote: >I've seen Mark's "arrow shaft" antenna design. Why bother putting one dipole in an arrow shaft????< I "bothered" because the bottom leg of my dipole is out "in space" between the bottom of the vertical stab and bottom of the fuselage. The arrow shaft is practically weightless, dirt cheap, and took 10 seconds to insert the copper foil tape into. The other alternative would be to magically suspend it between those two points and wait for it to break, or make some other support for it. I made such a support out of 2" fiberglass tape folded into an angle, and it only weighed 1.2 ounces (see http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/02103005m.jpg ), but the arrow shaft was even lighter, and about five times stiffer and offered much better abrasion resistance if the elevator cable came into contact with it for some reason. I didn't think it was particularly stupid to use arrow shaft at the time. See http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/antennas.html for more details, and a link to RST's web site that explains all of the gory details of the copper foil antenna. By the way, I think the best place to locate the antenna is glued to the vertical stab's forward spar face, but I forgot to do it, so I was forced to stick it on the surface later. If you must have a cable or metal near the antenna, it's best to have it near the center, rather than the ends of the legs. I can't vouch for how MINE works, but a whole lot of KR builders have been using this same setup with great results... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2002 05:10:09 -0600 To: "kr net" From: "JIM VANCE" Subject: Antenna Placement Message-ID: <002001c28197$53f97f60$33000a0a@VANCE> ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C28164.F2F2B420 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The antenna can run somewhat close to metal, depending on the = orientation. If a control cable is perpendicular to the antenna, it = will be almost invisible to the antenna. If the antenna is parallel to = the cable, then it will couple seriously and cause the antenna to detune = and have a distorted pattern. The majority of the signal is sent and received in the half of the = antenna nearest the feedpoint. If the metal is near to the tips of the = antenna, the antenna may have to be trimmed to get it to the desire = resonant frequency. But, the radiation pattern should still be good. It is important to run the coaxial cable at right angles to the antenna = as far as possible. When the cable is laid in parallel to the bottom = part of the antenna, it will cause serious matching problems. The best solution to antenna mounting questions is to duct tape the = antenna where you think it should go, then trim it to resonance and = impedance match with an SWR meter. Any radio amateur that builds his = own antennas will have the meter and will understand how to interpret = it. Jim Vance Vance@ClaflinWildcats.com ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01C28164.F2F2B420-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************