From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 10 Nov 2002 15:21:25 -0000 Issue 547 Date: Sunday, November 10, 2002 7:21 AM krnet Digest 10 Nov 2002 15:21:25 -0000 Issue 547 Topics (messages 13117 through 13138): Using Contact Cememt 13117 by: Peter Johnson 13119 by: ROBERT COOPER Re: parts for sale 13118 by: troy miller Re: elevator trim 13120 by: ROBERT COOPER Re: Belly Boards 13121 by: Daniel Heath 13122 by: Justin 13125 by: David Mullins Slow progress/ lack of money. 13123 by: Phillip Matheson Contact Cement Search Engine Results 13124 by: Peter Johnson Homebuilders Directory 13126 by: Mark Jones Bellyboard Deflection 13127 by: Ronevogt.aol.com Re: com antenna 13128 by: Eduardo José Jankosz Re: airfoil 13129 by: Mark Langford 13130 by: Robert X. Cringely fixing holes in leading edge? 13131 by: Darren Pond 13133 by: Daniel Heath Adhesive Trials and a Very Handy Tool 13132 by: Peter Johnson Re: airfoil - KR1 13134 by: Daniel Heath KR-1 wing 13135 by: Gary W. Haun 13137 by: Robert X. Cringely 13138 by: VP KR-1 wing addendum 13136 by: Gary W. Haun Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 12:24:46 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Using Contact Cememt Message-ID: <003901c28765$a101eda0$aba5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C28721.D31F2760 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello everyone. I'm at the point with my canopy framing that I now can begin to build up = urethane foam over the 'home made' foam layups. (The 'homemade foam' = process worked out very well too by the way!) I don't have access to use clamps to hold the foam in place while the = epoxy were to cure, and I'm not sure I want to trust tape to hold the = foam inplace either. Since the foam doesn't do anything structurally, do you think contact = cement would work to hold it in place? It would provide better contact = than hotmelt glue, it wouldn't melt the foam like hotmelt would (I'm = using 'boat builders' styrene foam), and it would work 'right now'. I would appreciate hearing comments from the group. Thanks mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C28721.D31F2760-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:08:14 -0500 To: "Peter Johnson" , "krnet" From: "ROBERT COOPER" Subject: Re: KR> Using Contact Cememt Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C28762.91E45400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Peter =20 I see no problem with using contact cement if it doesn't attack the foam.= 3M makes a spray insulation adhedive which I have used with styrofoam. I= have also used 5 minute epoxy but it is rather expensive for the amount = you get. I think I bought the 3M spray at Lowes or Home Depot. Jack Cooper ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Johnson Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 1:47 PM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> Using Contact Cememt Hello everyone. I'm at the point with my canopy framing that I now can begin to build up = urethane foam over the 'home made' foam layups. (The 'homemade foam' pro= cess worked out very well too by the way!) I don't have access to use clamps to hold the foam in place while the epo= xy were to cure, and I'm not sure I want to trust tape to hold the foam i= nplace either. Since the foam doesn't do anything structurally, do you think contact cem= ent would work to hold it in place? It would provide better contact than= hotmelt glue, it wouldn't melt the foam like hotmelt would (I'm using 'b= oat builders' styrene foam), and it would work 'right now'. I would appreciate hearing comments from the group. Thanks mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C28762.91E45400-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 08 Nov 2002 16:30:12 -0800 To: langford@hiwaay.net, KRNET@mailinglists.org From: "troy miller" Subject: Re: KR> parts for sale Message-ID: Poorly constructed KR2 necessitates sellin all for parts. Revmaster 2100d engine, unmounted turbo kit, guages, landing gear, new canop plexiglass, etc. Contact Troy Miller at tmiller3022@charter.net >From: "Mark Langford" >Reply-To: "Mark Langford" >To: >Subject: Re: KR> Belly Boards >Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 07:06:27 -0600 > >Dan Heath wrote: > > >>Well Dave, I tried to look at your belly board on >http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/redoak2002/, but my browser quit loading 1 >picture before I got there. Let us know when you get these pictures on >your site.<< > > > > >Here are the ones he was talking about, I think.. > >http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/redoak2002/02092021.jpg >http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/redoak2002/02092027.jpg > >Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL >mailo:langford@hiwaay.net >see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:14:41 -0500 To: "Oscar Zuniga" , "krnet" From: "ROBERT COOPER" Subject: Re: KR> elevator trim Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0002_01C28763.78BA9100 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The cordless screwdriver trim ideal was in kitplane magazine about a year= ago. Jack Cooper ----- Original Message ----- From: Oscar Zuniga Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 10:04 AM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: KR> elevator trim G'day, netters; I've seen a couple of nifty ideas on trim lately; one manual, one electri= c. =20 The manual trim wheel idea is on pg. 37 of the latest issue of "To Fly" (= the =20 SAA publication), and is really slick, simple, and lightweight. It uses = a =20 small trim wheel (knurled knob) running a 1/4" bolt back and forth to =20 push/pull a Bowden cable for trim. It also includes a very simple and ne= at =20 trim position indication. The electric trim idea is on Jeff LeTempt's website (he's building a =20 Dragonfly) and uses the geared, reversible DC motor innards from a cordle= ss =20 screwdriver with a 3-position momentary-contact switch. Low cost, simple= , =20 and readily available. I'd give out the URL for Jeff's website but it's = a =20 really bad one... hitting his page sets off a firestorm of pop-ups, =20 pop-unders, and other stuff... so with the description I've given, you =20 should be able to get the idea (or go find his site if you care to endure= =20 the ads). I searched the KRNet archives under "cordless screwdriver" and= =20 found nothing, so hopefully this isn't a rehash of an old idea. Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* =20 http://join.msn.com/?page=3Dfeatures/junkmail --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org =20 For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------=_NextPart_001_0002_01C28763.78BA9100-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 20:30:26 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Belly Boards Message-Id: <3DCC8F62.000001.01016@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_QIKAQL80000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_QIKALVC0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_QIKALVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Mark,=0D Thanks for the Pics. I have never seen one deployed. Is that the normal amount of deflection? It looks, I emphasize "looks", like that would jus= t cause you to float more.=0D =0D See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath=0D =0D See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic.=0D =0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG=0D =0D =20 --------------Boundary-00=_QIKALVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Mark,

Thanks for the Pics.  I have never seen one deployed. = Is=20 that the normal amount of deflection?  It looks, I emphasize "= looks",=20 like that would just cause you to float more.

 

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

Da= niel R.=20 Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org  Clic= k on the=20 Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG

&nb= sp;=20

=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMai= l -=20 Email has finally evolved - Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_QIKALVC0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_QIKAQL80000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 17:36:36 -0600 To: "KR" From: "Justin" Subject: Re: KR> Belly Boards Message-ID: <000901c2877f$b0a9a760$e8dd1818@socal.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C2874D.65CC13E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable A belly board that cause you to float more. I dont think so! I have = never heard of a more life less drag belly board or speed brake. Justin ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Daniel Heath=20 To: KRNET@mailinglists.org=20 Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 10:30 PM Subject: Re: KR> Belly Boards Mark, Thanks for the Pics. I have never seen one deployed. Is that = the normal amount of deflection? It looks, I emphasize "looks", like = that would just cause you to float more. See ya in Red Oak --- 2003, Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic. See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG =20 =20 =20 =20 ____________________________________________________ IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C2874D.65CC13E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 09 Nov 2002 02:16:50 -0500 From: David Mullins CC: KRNET@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> Belly Boards Message-ID: <3DCCB653.6B3F7F2A@attbi.com> --------------088614B58E45F8803492369D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Dan, I have 70º of movement at the stock KR flap handle. Moving the pushrod tube pivot point closer to the torque tube will give me the full deflection I want. Right now, I am only getting about 45º deflection. On another note, My friend Dan Woodward from Knighthawke Experimental Aircraft is retiring. He was the Guy that made my Prop Hub. Tomorrow his liquidation auction is taking place. He has 5 large lathes, 3 milling machines, welders, 3 gyrocopters, a Hawk 304 canard airplane, Everything anyone could want. I just wish I could have won the lottery to be able to purchase some of his tools. But I will see what i can afford. I will see if I can work out a deal on one of his planetary redrives, and maybe an in-flight adjustable hub that uses Warp Drive Blades. This will be used on my spare Corvair engine and another project that is floating around in my head. Dave Mullins Nashua, New Hampshire Daniel Heath wrote: > Mark, Thanks for the Pics. I have never seen one deployed. Is that the normal amount of deflection? It looks, I emphasize "looks", like that would just cause you to float more. See ya in Red Oak --- 2003, Daniel R. Heath See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic. See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG > ____________________________________________________ > IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here --------------088614B58E45F8803492369D Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="------------569EDEE1A29EF53313B181AD" --------------569EDEE1A29EF53313B181AD Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dan,

I have 70º of movement at the stock KR flap handle.
Moving the pushrod tube pivot point closer to the torque
tube will give me the full deflection I want. Right now, I
am only getting about 45º deflection.

On another note, My friend Dan Woodward from Knighthawke
Experimental Aircraft is retiring. He was the Guy that made
my Prop Hub. Tomorrow his liquidation auction is taking place.
He has 5 large lathes, 3 milling machines, welders, 3 gyrocopters,
a Hawk 304 canard airplane, Everything anyone could want. I just
wish I could have won the lottery to be able to purchase some of
his tools. But I will see what i can afford. I will see if I can work
out a deal on one of his planetary redrives, and maybe an in-flight
adjustable hub that uses Warp Drive Blades. This will be used on
my spare Corvair engine and another project that is floating around
in my head.

Dave Mullins
Nashua, New Hampshire

Daniel Heath wrote:

Mark,

Thanks for the Pics.  I have never seen one deployed.  Is that the normal amount of deflection?  It looks, I emphasize "looks", like that would just cause you to float more.
 
 

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

Daniel R. Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org  Click on the Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG
 

____________________________________________________
  IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here
--------------569EDEE1A29EF53313B181AD Content-Type: application/x-unknown-content-type Content-ID: Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: inline; filename="" --------------569EDEE1A29EF53313B181AD-- --------------088614B58E45F8803492369D-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 15:50:23 +1100 To: "krnet listing" From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Slow progress/ lack of money. Message-ID: <015301c287ab$869eb2e0$0100a8c0@barry> ------=_NextPart_000_0150_01C28807.B7575DE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I do not know how you all find enough time to get anything done on your = KR's I'm waiting for a T/C to look at my Kr. I need some info from a TC on my = spars and tail plane. I'll let you know what they say. Thanks to all of you kind netter's that have helped over the last 12 = months. I'm finding the money harder to come by , so I'm going to try a net = marketing plan.to make some money for my KR. If anyone wants a copy of the plan, contact me off the net. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 NSW Australia. See our VW engines at; www.vw-engines.com ------=_NextPart_000_0150_01C28807.B7575DE0-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2002 23:05:05 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Contact Cement Search Engine Results Message-ID: <007801c287c1$bd79a8e0$28a5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01C2877B.46BCCA20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello everybody.=20 Further to my earlier inquiry about using contact cement to hold foam in = place, I thought to myself afterwards that I should do a search engine = inquiry into the topic. I used the 'maddyhome.com/krsrch/search' search engine, punched in = 'contact cement', and had enough hits back to make me realize that I = will have to either use latex contact cement on the polystyrene foam, or = use a polyurethane construction adhesive which works pretty much the = same as contact cement, ie, it holds things together tight once they're = in contact with each other. Boy, just think of it, soon the KRNet won't be needed, we'll all just go = to the various search engines for info..! Ya, Right!!!!! Hahahaha... PJ mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_0075_01C2877B.46BCCA20-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 10:13:55 -0600 To: "KR-Net" , "CorVaircraft Net" From: "Mark Jones" Subject: Homebuilders Directory Message-ID: <001401c2880b$009cf7a0$e3511f41@wi.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C287D8.B5C88BE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello All, Here is a Homebuilders Directory link which has a lot of information and = you can also post your info there for all to view. http://www.homebuilt.org/directory/directory.html Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA=20 E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at =20 http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C287D8.B5C88BE0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 14:10:09 EST To: KRNET@mailinglists.org From: Ronevogt@aol.com Subject: Bellyboard Deflection Message-ID: <113.1a584835.2afeb791@aol.com> --part1_113.1a584835.2afeb791_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Netters; The 3 different plans that I looked at before building my bellyboard all use 30 degrees. Therefore, I built mine to use that amount of deflection. However, since my KR hasn't flown yet, I can't tell you how well it works. If anyone has flown a KR with a bellyboard, I would sure like them to comment on the topic. Ron Vogt --part1_113.1a584835.2afeb791_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 18:46:20 -0200 To: "krnet" From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Eduardo_Jos=E9_Jankosz?=" Subject: Re: KR> com antenna Message-Id: <200211092046.gA9Kk6ga042236@cwbone.bsi.com.br> Hi, friends! Yes, there is in Kitplanes, November/99 an article "Build a Com Antenna for $5.00" and in December/99 how "Build a Great Nav Antenna", by Jim Weir who is chief avioniker at RST. http://www.rst-engr.com . Jim can be reached by email at jim@rst-engr.com but prefers to answer questions in the newsgroup at rec.aviation.homebuilt. If somebody want, I can scan in PDF file the articles and send "in off " to interested! Regards! Eduardo José Jankosz jankosz@bsi.com.br http://www.bsi.com.br/cbcb http://br.groups.yahoo.com/group/kr2-brasil Curitiba - PR - BRASIL ---------- > De: Scott Stanton > Para: larry flesner ; krnet@mailinglists.org > Assunto: Re: KR> com antenna > Data: Quarta-feira, 6 de Novembro de 2002 13:48 > > There was an article in Kitplanes a few (probably > many) months ago on antennas by Jim Wier. He > basically said that when radio waves bounce off of > objects they align themselves in a vertical manner. > So a vertical comm antenna will pick up the original > source plus any bounces resulting in s stronger > signal. > > The Nav antennas need to be horizontal because you > only want them to pick up the transmission straight > from the source. > > Scott Stanton > Raleigh NC > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 19:54:23 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> airfoil Message-ID: <016a01c2885c$19bc1300$0100a8c0@TD310> Last week I wrote: > Having said that, I'm not entirely sure what a KR1 wing even looks like. > Doesn't it have almost exactly the same planform as the KR2? What are the > root and tip chords, and the distance between them, and overall wing length > from outer template to outer template? I'm still waiting... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 20:32:32 -0800 To: From: "Robert X. Cringely" Subject: Re: KR> airfoil Message-Id: As I recall they are pretty much the same with most of the extra wingspan coming from the added cabin width and a longer center section of the wing. I believe the outer panels are identical. Bob PS -- I'm rebuilding the aft fuselage of my KR-1, which was damaged in a storm last year. I built the plane with Aerolite glue, which has been a matter of some discussion here. Extensive testing on the fuselage carcass shows that the glue line fails before the wood in nearly every instance -- sometimes with surprisingly little effort. This is in a 25 year-old airplane that was well built in its day. Needless to say, I'm scrapping the rest of the plane, too, and starting over using T-88. See you in three years. At 7:54 PM -0600 11/9/02, Mark Langford wrote: >Last week I wrote: > >> Having said that, I'm not entirely sure what a KR1 wing even looks like. >> Doesn't it have almost exactly the same planform as the KR2? What are the >> root and tip chords, and the distance between them, and overall wing >length >> from outer template to outer template? > >I'm still waiting... > >Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama >mailto:langford@hiwaay.net >see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files -- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 23:26:30 -0500 To: From: "Darren Pond" Subject: fixing holes in leading edge? Message-ID: HI All Well my C-GGGW is now at the home base hanger behind the house. I added more work to the up grades on my kr2. I managed to allow a bolt to impale several times in to the leading edge about the size of a quarter in three locations. How is the best way to fix this. I have 6oz boat cloth already. How may layers should I use? How large an area should I sand back before repairing this ahhhh lighting hole? Darren Pond CF-VML Taylor Mono plane almost flying. C-GGGW KR2 1835vw coming to a airport near you this spring PondHopper 2 place 2.2 turbo (building stage) Cambridge Ont Canada pond27@rogers.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 06:29:10 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: Re: KR> fixing holes in leading edge? Message-Id: <3DCE6D36.000001.01504@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_MW6DQL80000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_NW6DLVC0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_NW6DLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Darren,=0D That reminds me of the time a friend came to give me a ride in his KR, before I had finished my first one. He had trouble on landing and took o= ut a landing light with the leading edge of his wing. Well, I didn't have a= ny foam, but did have some glass and resin. We went to the flower store and got some of that foam you stick the flowers in.=0D Took all that to the airport. He instructed me to mark out a squared off area around the boo boo, and sand back about an inch all around, to give = a place for the edges of the new glass to fair in. Then I cut out the bad stuff, put in the flower foam and sanded it to shape. I put in the first layer of glass and then allowed the second layer to overlap the first to cover the whole area where I had sanded.=0D The reason I was doing all this, is because he was busy putting the engin= e back on and installing the replacement prop that he had sent from home on the bus. It was a very hot day, so by about 2:00 he had the engine ready= to go and the resin had cured. A little buffing around the edges and he hea= ded home.=0D Well, I never got my ride, but he went home with his plane in almost the same condition it was when he left.=0D =0D See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath=0D =0D See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic.=0D =0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG=0D =0D =20 --------------Boundary-00=_NW6DLVC0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Darren,

That reminds me of the time a friend came to give me a ride in h= is KR,=20 before I had finished my first one.  He had trouble on landing= and=20 took out a landing light with the leading edge of his wing.  W= ell, I=20 didn't have any foam, but did have some glass and resin.  We w= ent to=20 the flower store and got some of that foam you stick the flowers in= =2E

Took all that to the airport.  He instructed me to mark out= a=20 squared off area around the boo boo, and sand back about an inch al= l=20 around, to give a place for the edges of the new glass to fair in.&= nbsp;=20 Then I cut out the bad stuff, put in the flower foam and sanded it = to=20 shape.  I put in the first layer of glass and then allowed the= second=20 layer to overlap the first to cover the whole area where I had sand= ed.

The reason I was doing all this, is because he was busy putting = the=20 engine back on and installing the replacement prop that he had sent= from=20 home on the bus.  It was a very hot day, so by about 2:00 he h= ad the=20 engine ready to go and the resin had cured.  A little buffing = around=20 the edges and he headed home.

Well, I never got my ride, but he went home with his plane in al= most=20 the same condition it was when he left.

 

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

Da= niel R.=20 Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org  Clic= k on the=20 Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG

&nb= sp;=20

=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
____________________________________________________
  IncrediMai= l -=20 Email has finally evolved - Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_NW6DLVC0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_MW6DQL80000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2002 23:55:24 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Adhesive Trials and a Very Handy Tool Message-ID: <003401c2888e$a5c6d4c0$ada5e2d1@peter> ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C2884B.78BBE620 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm sending this email hopefully to help someone else out who may find = themselves in a similar predicament. I had to glue 2 3/4" x 3/4" foam strips along my canopy framing, the = foam is blue 'boat builders' styrene foam. =20 I tried hotmelt and it was melting the foam because of the size of the = area, and required too much hotmelt to boot. I then tried regular and latex contact cement. The regular solvent = based cement melted the foam, and the latex took three coats and tooooo = much time to use. I then tried cheap 'panel adhesive' in a tube. The directions said to = cover the surfaces, seperate and wait a 10 minutes or so, then press = firmly in place and hold for a moment. It dried quick and did the job. So, I hope this is of help to others. On another note, I picked up something called a 'grout remover'. This = thing looks like a utility knife blade on a handle. Its cutting edge is = abrasive material that goes around the both sides of the. I used it to = remove the foam along the edge of a glass/epoxy layup preparatory to = filling the corner with flox. =20 It worked well, was comfortable and fast to use, and because the = abrasive cutting edge is on the sides of the blades it removed the foam = from the layup at the same time it was removing the foam. Hope this helps.=20 mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01C2884B.78BBE620-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 06:33:47 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: From: "Daniel Heath" Subject: Re: KR> airfoil - KR1 Message-Id: <3DCE6E4B.000004.01504@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_B47DBHK0000000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_B47D6RO0000000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_B47D6RO0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Mark,=0D I don't know the numbers, but I remember seeing a stock KR1 at Jeanette's many years ago when I visited out there. The actual wing is very short. = It is not nearly as long as the KR2.=0D =0D See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath=0D =0D See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic.=0D =0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG=0D =0D =20 --------------Boundary-00=_B47D6RO0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Mark,

I don't know the numbers, but I remember seeing a stock KR1 at=20 Jeanette's many years ago when I visited out there.  The actua= l wing=20 is very short.  It is not nearly as long as the KR2.

 

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

Da= niel R.=20 Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org  Clic= k on the=20 Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG

&nb= sp;=20

=09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09
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  IncrediMai= l -=20 Email has finally evolved - Click=20 Here --------------Boundary-00=_B47D6RO0000000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_B47DBHK0000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 08:58:07 -0500 To: From: "Gary W. Haun" Subject: KR-1 wing Message-ID: <000001c288c1$348b3840$c78cde0c@haun4> ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C28897.4BB53040 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark, My plans are on the floor in front of me, they do not occupy much space LOL. Center section: Forward spar is 65" long x 7 1/8" high x 2 5/32" wide, plywood webbing both faces. Spar caps: 2 5/32" wide x 2" thick. Aft spar is 66" long x 3 3/4" high x 1 1/8" wide, plywood webbing both faces. Spar caps: 1 1/8" wide x 15/16" thick. Outer panel(s): Forward spar is 59.5" long x 7 1/8" high tapering to 5 1/4" x no width dimension given, plywood webbing aft face. Spar caps: 1 5/16" wide tapering to 1", 1 7/8" thick tapering to 3/4". Rear spar is 60" long x 3 3/4" high tapering to 2 3/4" x no width dimension given, plywood webbing forward face. Spar caps: 15/16" wide x 7/8" thick. Total span at the forward spars not counting wingtips would be 184" or 15' 4" Gary W. Haun ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C28897.4BB53040-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 06:36:44 -0800 To: From: "Robert X. Cringely" Subject: Re: KR> KR-1 wing Message-Id: I know you have the plans right in front of you, but the stock wingspan of a KR-1 isn't 15 feet four inches, it is 17 feet. And mine, like many, is 19 feet, which makes it virtually identical to a KR-2 wing. Here are the overly-optimistic specs, straight from the Rand-Robinson web page: Specifications Length 12' 9" Wing Span 17' 0" Total Wing Area 62 sq. ft. Empty weight 375 lbs. Gross weight 750 lbs. Useful load 375 lbs. Baggage capacity 20 lbs. max Take off distance 350 ft. Landing distance 900 ft. Stall Speed 52 mph Maximum Speed 200 mph Cruise Speed 180 mph Range 1400 miles Rate of Climb (light) 1200 fpm Rate of Climb (gross) 800 fpm Service ceiling 15,000 ft. Engine VW 1834 Fuel 8-30 gal. Fuel consumption 3.8 gph Landing gear Fixed conventional or trigear, or retractable conventional Bob At 8:58 AM -0500 11/10/02, Gary W. Haun wrote: >Mark, > > > > My plans are on the floor in front of me, they do not occupy much >space LOL. > > > >Center section: > >Forward spar is 65" long x 7 1/8" high x 2 5/32" wide, plywood webbing >both faces. > >Spar caps: 2 5/32" wide x 2" thick. > >Aft spar is 66" long x 3 3/4" high x 1 1/8" wide, plywood webbing both >faces. > >Spar caps: 1 1/8" wide x 15/16" thick. > > > >Outer panel(s): > >Forward spar is 59.5" long x 7 1/8" high tapering to 5 1/4" x no width >dimension given, plywood webbing aft face. > >Spar caps: 1 5/16" wide tapering to 1", 1 7/8" thick tapering to 3/4". > >Rear spar is 60" long x 3 3/4" high tapering to 2 3/4" x no width >dimension given, plywood webbing forward face. > >Spar caps: 15/16" wide x 7/8" thick. > > > >Total span at the forward spars not counting wingtips would be 184" or >15' 4" > > > >Gary W. Haun > > -- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:21:24 -0600 To: "Robert X. Cringely" , krnet@mailinglists.org From: VP Subject: RE: KR> KR-1 wing Message-id: Does anybody have any technical information on Mr. Shirley's outstanding KR-1? The wing spar design in particular.. Vince -----Original Message----- From: Robert X. Cringely [mailto:bob@cringely.com] Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2002 8:37 AM To: krnet@mailinglists.org Subject: Re: KR> KR-1 wing I know you have the plans right in front of you, but the stock wingspan of a KR-1 isn't 15 feet four inches, it is 17 feet. And mine, like many, is 19 feet, which makes it virtually identical to a KR-2 wing. Here are the overly-optimistic specs, straight from the Rand-Robinson web page: Specifications Length 12' 9" Wing Span 17' 0" Total Wing Area 62 sq. ft. Empty weight 375 lbs. Gross weight 750 lbs. Useful load 375 lbs. Baggage capacity 20 lbs. max Take off distance 350 ft. Landing distance 900 ft. Stall Speed 52 mph Maximum Speed 200 mph Cruise Speed 180 mph Range 1400 miles Rate of Climb (light) 1200 fpm Rate of Climb (gross) 800 fpm Service ceiling 15,000 ft. Engine VW 1834 Fuel 8-30 gal. Fuel consumption 3.8 gph Landing gear Fixed conventional or trigear, or retractable conventional Bob At 8:58 AM -0500 11/10/02, Gary W. Haun wrote: >Mark, > > > > My plans are on the floor in front of me, they do not occupy much >space LOL. > > > >Center section: > >Forward spar is 65" long x 7 1/8" high x 2 5/32" wide, plywood webbing >both faces. > >Spar caps: 2 5/32" wide x 2" thick. > >Aft spar is 66" long x 3 3/4" high x 1 1/8" wide, plywood webbing both >faces. > >Spar caps: 1 1/8" wide x 15/16" thick. > > > >Outer panel(s): > >Forward spar is 59.5" long x 7 1/8" high tapering to 5 1/4" x no width >dimension given, plywood webbing aft face. > >Spar caps: 1 5/16" wide tapering to 1", 1 7/8" thick tapering to 3/4". > >Rear spar is 60" long x 3 3/4" high tapering to 2 3/4" x no width >dimension given, plywood webbing forward face. > >Spar caps: 15/16" wide x 7/8" thick. > > > >Total span at the forward spars not counting wingtips would be 184" or >15' 4" > > > >Gary W. Haun > > -- --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2002 09:09:30 -0500 To: From: "Gary W. Haun" Subject: KR-1 wing addendum Message-ID: <000001c288c2$c9feb0e0$c78cde0c@haun4> ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C28898.E128A8E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark, Tip cord 36" Root cord 48" Gary W. Haun KR-1 #5985 ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01C28898.E128A8E0-- ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************