From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 24 Nov 2002 14:13:14 -0000 Issue 555 Date: Sunday, November 24, 2002 6:13 AM krnet Digest 24 Nov 2002 14:13:14 -0000 Issue 555 Topics (messages 13312 through 13339): Aileron Hinges/binding 13312 by: larry flesner Aircraft Spruce and Specialty 13313 by: Serge Vidal 13315 by: Robert Stone 13337 by: virgnvs.juno.com Re: test 13314 by: FLIBYRON.aol.com Re: Epoxy & Ventilation.. 13316 by: Peter Johnson Hinges 13317 by: norm-ruth 13322 by: Mark Langford Thermal Coatings 13318 by: Ron Eason epoxy curing temps. 13319 by: Rick Wilson Re: epoxy curing temps. - Patch Wing 13320 by: Dan Heath 13324 by: Rick Wilson smooth prime dry time 13321 by: Tim Brown 13323 by: Bob Sauer 13327 by: Robert X. Cringely 13328 by: Robert Stone 13329 by: Robert X. Cringely 13330 by: Mark Langford Re: Glass plys 13325 by: Dale Baldwin Re: flaps 13326 by: Mark Langford 13332 by: Lynn Hyder Triming the Canopy 13331 by: JeboydF16.aol.com 13333 by: Paul Gangemi 13334 by: Peg and Mike Meyer 13335 by: Edwin Blocher 13338 by: virgnvs.juno.com Trimming the Canopy 13336 by: JeboydF16.aol.com smooth prime/sanding 13339 by: larry flesner Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 08:26:00 -0600 To: "kr" From: larry flesner Subject: Aileron Hinges/binding Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021122082600.008c4a10@mail.midwest.net> At 12:50 PM 11/12/02 -0800, Bob Sauer wrote: >I have read somewhere that the 6' long aileron hinge could bind and perhaps cause problems in flight. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The following is "third hand information" so take it for what it's worth. A number of years ago a KR builder related to me that a friend of his flying a KR was making a high speed diving turn to make a high speed pass at an airshow or something and THOUGHT his ailerons bound up on him. He said he relaxed the back pressure on the stick, rolled out, then continued the pull up. This being the only time I've ever heard of a problem it may have been something specific to that aircraft. There are too many variables to know. If any builder is concerned about this happening I suppose a simple fix would be to cut the hinge into several sections and re-install. A six foot hinge is way overbuilt and cutting it in several places would not change anything as far as strength goes and would still give the gap fill that the hinge provides. One cut in the middle would probably be enough to fix a problem that probably doesn't exist. If you go the "section" route, I'd suggest that you install the hinge as a single piece to insure alignment and then remove, cut , and re-install. Trying to align several sectioned pieces may be creating a problem where there was none to start with! I'm waiting for test flights to prove there is a problem before I buy a new hack saw blade. Your results may vary! Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 19:09:35 +0200 To: From: "Serge Vidal" Subject: Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Message-ID: <000001c2923d$9f06f990$e100a8c0@sergevidal12> A few months ago, I was among the Netters who complained about some bad experiences they got from Aircraft Spruce. In my case, it was about an engine tachometer of the wrong type. Well, I am very pleased to tell you that Aircraft Spruce contacted me afterwards, and attended the problem, which is now solved. For us homebuilders living in South Africa, Aircraft Spruce is by far the best source of aircraft goodies, if only because of how much choice their catalogue offers. The drawbacks are shipping costs, and customs formalities. For my fellow South African netters: I am trying to organize a group order from Aircraft Spruce on a regular basis. How many people would be interested? Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC Johannesburg, South Africa ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 12:36:35 -0600 To: , From: "Robert Stone" Subject: Re: KR> Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Message-ID: <000401c29256$16b68ba0$05d81a18@hot.rr.com> Serge, Why not suggest to Aircraft Spruce and Specialty that they open a store in South Africa. I was a friend of the late Ken Rand when he was alive and he had a branch of his business there and may still. There are many builders of experiential aircraft in your part of the world and you might point this out to them. Also point out to them, because of the cost of overseas shipping being delimited, a store in South Africa might do very well. Bob Stone, Harker Heights, TX rstone4@hot.rr.com ---- Original Message ----- From: "Serge Vidal" To: Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 11:09 AM Subject: KR> Aircraft Spruce and Specialty > A few months ago, I was among the Netters who complained about some bad > experiences they got from Aircraft Spruce. In my case, it was about an > engine tachometer of the wrong type. > Well, I am very pleased to tell you that Aircraft Spruce contacted me > afterwards, and attended the problem, which is now solved. > > For us homebuilders living in South Africa, Aircraft Spruce is by far the > best source of aircraft goodies, if only because of how much choice their > catalogue offers. The drawbacks are shipping costs, and customs formalities. > > For my fellow South African netters: I am trying to organize a group order > from Aircraft Spruce on a regular basis. How many people would be > interested? > > Serge Vidal > KR2 ZS-WEC > Johannesburg, South Africa > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 19:29:03 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Message-ID: <20021123.194238.-521693.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Serge. at one time Wickes had a deal with a guy who would ship to Europe by the container. Saved a lot on shipping, Virg On Fri, 22 Nov 2002 12:36:35 -0600 "Robert Stone" writes: > Serge, > Why not suggest to Aircraft Spruce and Specialty that they open > a store > in South Africa. I was a friend of the late Ken Rand when he was > alive and > he had a branch of his business there and may still. There are > many > builders of experiential aircraft in your part of the world and you > might > point this out to them. Also point out to them, because of the cost > of > overseas shipping being delimited, a store in South Africa might do > very > well. > > Bob Stone, Harker Heights, TX > rstone4@hot.rr.com > > ---- Original Message ----- > From: "Serge Vidal" > To: > Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 11:09 AM > Subject: KR> Aircraft Spruce and Specialty > > > > A few months ago, I was among the Netters who complained about > some bad > > experiences they got from Aircraft Spruce. In my case, it was > about an > > engine tachometer of the wrong type. > > Well, I am very pleased to tell you that Aircraft Spruce contacted > me > > afterwards, and attended the problem, which is now solved. > > > > For us homebuilders living in South Africa, Aircraft Spruce is by > far the > > best source of aircraft goodies, if only because of how much > choice their > > catalogue offers. The drawbacks are shipping costs, and customs > formalities. > > > > For my fellow South African netters: I am trying to organize a > group order > > from Aircraft Spruce on a regular basis. How many people would be > > interested? > > > > Serge Vidal > > KR2 ZS-WEC > > Johannesburg, South Africa > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 13:17:02 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: FLIBYRON@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> test Message-ID: <182.1250a8d6.2b0fce9e@aol.com> ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 01:24:36 -0800 To: From: "Peter Johnson" Subject: Re: KR> Epoxy & Ventilation.. Message-ID: <000401c2926d$9f146640$0309eccf@peter> Hi Dick Concentrations of epoxy fumes are just as bad on you as getting it on your skin. It's not a matter of IF you become sensitized to it, but WHEN. I would suggest, and make it an point of employment with my business, that everyone wear a good fitting gas mask when working in the shop. A good mask is one that you can be understood through when talking. The filters you need are for organic vapours. Use alcohol to clean the mask after every use. I use mine all the time in the shop for sanding, cleaning engine pieces, vacuuming etc. Hope this helps. Peter mailto:pjohnson@voyageur.ca ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 18:03:13 -0800 To: "krnet" From: "norm-ruth" Subject: Hinges Message-ID: <000f01c29294$7c98d0c0$91dbd73f@pavilion> ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C29251.6CF384A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This is intended for Mark Langford and anyone else that would care to = chime in. Under Mark's Builder's Manual, Miscellaneous Stuff, about 1/3 down the = page is a test of a rolled hinge. This seems more than adequate for = ailerons, and I believe is what is used on the C120. = http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/misc.html. Any opinions? Norm Seel norm-ruth@prodigy.net=20 ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C29251.6CF384A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 21:19:06 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Hinges Message-ID: <003501c2929f$1524e4f0$0100a8c0@TD310> Norm Seel wrote: >>This is intended for Mark Langford and anyone else that would care to chime in. Under Mark's Builder's Manual, Miscellaneous Stuff, about 1/3 down the page is a test of a rolled hinge. This seems more than adequate for ailerons, and I believe is what is used on the C120. http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/misc.html. Any opinions?<< Hey, all I was doing is trying to prove a point regarding the strength of the two hinges, and I do believe that even the rolled ones are pretty dang strong! I wasn't really saying we should all go with the rolled ones (although if I'd already built one I don't think I'd worry about it). You know me. I'd use the best, and feel good about paying for it, especially if I was only going to use a few feet of it, say in sets of three or four per aileron. Are you sure the Cessna hinges are rolled rather than extruded? I have no idea, personally, but will try to remember to check on it next time I walk by one... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 17:56:33 -0600 To: "krnet" From: "Ron Eason" Cc: "LN Engineering" Subject: Thermal Coatings Message-ID: <000e01c29282$c90cd3a0$5a631e41@Administration> http://www.techlinecoatings.com I just thought I would share this resource with you guys. KRRon ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 16:02:16 -0800 (PST) To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: Rick Wilson Subject: epoxy curing temps. Message-ID: <20021123000216.15635.qmail@web21202.mail.yahoo.com> Hi all, Today I managed to make myself really sick. I was pulling my kr2 out of the garage and let the wing attach fitting hit the left wing punching a hole about 2-1/2 inches in the wingskin. My question is if I patch the hole and heat the place locally while it cures, will it bond properly with the surrounding area? The high temp. is only supposed to be in the mid fifties where I live for the next few days. Opinions will be appreciated. Thanks, Rick Wilson. rwdw2002@yahoo.com KR2-0200 Mounted the wings anyway. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus – Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 20:59:27 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> epoxy curing temps. - Patch Wing Message-Id: <3DDF0B2F.00002F.01052@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_37J0C5G3LVC000000000 Content-Type: Multipart/Alternative; boundary="------------Boundary-00=_37J07FL3LVC000000000" --------------Boundary-00=_37J07FL3LVC000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Yes, aim a heat lamp at it and it will cure in about 6 hours. I do small areas like that all the time. In fact I have just cured the area where I put in the trim servo this week.=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath=0D =0D See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the Pic.=0D =0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG=0D =0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KRnet@mailinglists.org=0D Date: Friday, November 22, 2002 04:02:22 PM=0D To: krnet@mailinglists.org=0D Subject: KR> epoxy curing temps.=0D =0D Hi all, Today I managed to make myself really sick. I=0D was pulling my kr2 out of the garage and let the wing=0D attach fitting hit the left wing punching a hole about=0D 2-1/2 inches in the wingskin. My question is if I=0D patch the hole and heat the place locally while it=0D cures, will it bond properly with the surrounding=0D area? The high temp. is only supposed to be in the mid=0D fifties where I live for the next few days. Opinions=0D will be appreciated. Thanks, Rick Wilson.=0D rwdw2002@yahoo.com KR2-0200 Mounted the wings anyway.=0D =0D __________________________________________________=0D Do you Yahoo!?=0D Yahoo! Mail Plus =96 Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.=0D http://mailplus.yahoo.com=0D =0D ---------------------------------------------------------------------=0D To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all"=0D =0D To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org =0D For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org=0D =0D See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp=0D or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files=0D =0D =2E=20 --------------Boundary-00=_37J07FL3LVC000000000 Content-Type: Text/HTML; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Yes, aim a heat lamp at it and it will cure in about 6 hours.&n= bsp; I do small areas like that all the time.  In fact I have j= ust cured the area where I put in the trim servo this week.
 

DanRH@KR-Builder.org

See ya in Red Oak --- 2003,

Daniel R= =2E Heath

See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder= =2Eorg  Click on the Pic.

See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG

 

-------Original Message-------
 
Date: Friday, Nove= mber 22, 2002 04:02:22 PM
Subject: KR> ep= oxy curing temps.
 
Hi all, Today I managed to make myself really sick. Iwas pulling my kr2 out of the garage and let the wing
attach fitting = hit the left wing punching a hole about
2-1/2 inches in the wingskin. = My question is if I
patch the hole and heat the place locally while it=
cures, will it bond properly with the surrounding
area? The high t= emp. is only supposed to be in the mid
fifties where I live for the ne= xt few days. Opinions
will be appreciated. Thanks, Rick Wilson.
rwdw2002@yahoo.com KR2-0200 Mounte= d the wings anyway.

______________________________________________= ____
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail Plus =96 Powerful. Affordable. Sign= up now.
http://mailplus.yahoo.c= om

-----------------------------------------------------------= ----------
To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all"

To UNsubsc= ribe, e-mail: krnet= -unsubscribe@mailinglists.org
For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org<= /A>

See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word f= iles

.
______________________= ______________________________
<= A href=3D"http://www.incredimail.com/redir.asp?ad_id=3D309&lang=3D9">= 3D""  IncrediMail - Email has= finally evolved - = Click Here --------------Boundary-00=_37J07FL3LVC000000000-- --------------Boundary-00=_37J0C5G3LVC000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 19:45:44 -0800 (PST) To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Rick Wilson Subject: Re: KR> epoxy curing temps. - Patch Wing Message-ID: <20021123034544.15240.qmail@web21201.mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Dan, I would wait for warmer weather but I can't stand looking at the hole til then. Thanks again, Rick. rwdw2002@yahoo.com --- Dan Heath wrote: > Yes, aim a heat lamp at it and it will cure in about > 6 hours. I do small > areas like that all the time. In fact I have just > cured the area where I > put in the trim servo this week. > > DanRH@KR-Builder.org > See ya in Red Oak --- 2003, > > Daniel R. Heath > > See our KR2 at: http://kr-builder.org Click on the > Pic. > > See our EAA Chapter 242 at: http://WWW.EAA242.ORG > > > -------Original Message------- > > From: KRnet@mailinglists.org > Date: Friday, November 22, 2002 04:02:22 PM > To: krnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: KR> epoxy curing temps. > > Hi all, Today I managed to make myself really sick. > I > was pulling my kr2 out of the garage and let the > wing > attach fitting hit the left wing punching a hole > about > 2-1/2 inches in the wingskin. My question is if I > patch the hole and heat the place locally while it > cures, will it bond properly with the surrounding > area? The high temp. is only supposed to be in the > mid > fifties where I live for the next few days. Opinions > will be appreciated. Thanks, Rick Wilson. > rwdw2002@yahoo.com KR2-0200 Mounted the wings > anyway. > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail Plus – Powerful. Affordable. Sign up > now. > http://mailplus.yahoo.com > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , > NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: > krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: > krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > . __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus – Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 19:11:53 -0800 (PST) To: Group KR NET From: Tim Brown Subject: smooth prime dry time Message-ID: <20021123031153.81652.qmail@web40911.mail.yahoo.com> Hi all: And no, I didn't check the archives first. I was just hoping someone had a fast answer that has used UV Smooth Prime. About what is the dry time between coats when one sands before the next coat? Are we talking an hour, hours, or over night? And at what temp were you at when you did yours? Tim __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus – Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 19:21:49 -0800 To: From: "Bob Sauer" Subject: Re: KR> smooth prime dry time Message-ID: <005d01c2929f$8798f940$0f96bbd0@home> You donot sand between coats. Do you have the manual from the company for the application? Bob Sauer Las Vegas From: resauer@softcom.net ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 10:58:43 -0800 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "Robert X. Cringely" Subject: Re: KR> smooth prime dry time Message-Id: Straight from the Poly-Fiber website: "Stir Smooth Prime until all solids are back in suspension. Roll on about six coats of unthinned crosslinked UV Smooth Prime. Sand only the final coat. You may also spray on UV Smooth Prime as needed for an ultra-smooth prime finish." Bob >Hi all: And no, I didn't check the archives >first. I was just hoping someone had a fast >answer that has used UV Smooth Prime. > > >About what is the dry time between coats when one >sands before the next coat? Are we talking an >hour, hours, or over night? And at what temp >were you at when you did yours? > >Tim > > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Mail Plus =F1 Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >http://mailplus.yahoo.com > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files -- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 13:04:37 -0600 To: From: "Robert Stone" Subject: Re: KR> smooth prime dry time Message-ID: <000601c29323$2b4e85e0$05d81a18@hot.rr.com> Bob, When I built back in the early 70's I used a product called Feather-Fill. I don't think Poly-Fiber was available in those days. If you have used both or even have knowledge of how they compare, which one do you think is the best to use as a primer/filler. Bob Stone, Harker Heights, TX rstone4@hot.rr.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert X. Cringely" To: Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 12:58 PM Subject: Re: KR> smooth prime dry time Straight from the Poly-Fiber website: "Stir Smooth Prime until all solids are back in suspension. Roll on about six coats of unthinned crosslinked UV Smooth Prime. Sand only the final coat. You may also spray on UV Smooth Prime as needed for an ultra-smooth prime finish." Bob >Hi all: And no, I didn't check the archives >first. I was just hoping someone had a fast >answer that has used UV Smooth Prime. > > >About what is the dry time between coats when one >sands before the next coat? Are we talking an >hour, hours, or over night? And at what temp >were you at when you did yours? > >Tim > > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Mail Plus ñ Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >http://mailplus.yahoo.com > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files -- --------------------------------------------------------------------- To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 11:23:42 -0800 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "Robert X. Cringely" Subject: Re: KR> smooth prime dry time Message-Id: I have used Feather Fil, too. Smooth Prime is MUCH easier to use since it is water-based. It sands about the same but can only be dry-sanded. And Smooth Prime weighs less than Feather Fil. Bob >Bob, > When I built back in the early 70's I used a product called >Feather-Fill. I don't think Poly-Fiber was available in those days. If yo= u >have used both or even have knowledge of how they compare, which one do you >think is the best to use as a primer/filler. > >Bob Stone, Harker Heights, TX >rstone4@hot.rr.com >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Robert X. Cringely" >To: >Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 12:58 PM >Subject: Re: KR> smooth prime dry time > > >Straight from the Poly-Fiber website: "Stir Smooth Prime until all >solids are back in suspension. Roll on about six coats of unthinned >crosslinked UV Smooth Prime. Sand only the final coat. You may also >spray on UV Smooth Prime as needed for an ultra-smooth prime finish." > > >Bob > > > >>Hi all: And no, I didn't check the archives >>first. I was just hoping someone had a fast >>answer that has used UV Smooth Prime. >> >> >>About what is the dry time between coats when one >>sands before the next coat? Are we talking an >>hour, hours, or over night? And at what temp >>were you at when you did yours? >> >>Tim >> >> >>__________________________________________________ >>Do you Yahoo!? >>Yahoo! Mail Plus =F1 Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >>http://mailplus.yahoo.com >> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------- >>To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" >> >>To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >>For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org >> >>See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >>or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > >-- > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files -- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 13:56:47 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> smooth prime dry time Message-ID: <00b701c2932a$74c17460$0100a8c0@TD310> Robert X. Cringely wrote: > I have used Feather Fil, too. Smooth Prime is MUCH easier to use > since it is water-based. It sands about the same but can only be > dry-sanded. And Smooth Prime weighs less than Feather Fil. Yep, MUCH easier. You can't hardly even find Feather Fill at the local auto body shops anymore. It's been replaced by more modern crosslinked stuff. I saw exactly one quart of Feather Fill when I was in the paint store the other day, and the guy said that it was basically a special order these days. The first coats of Smooth Prime should be rolled on if your goal is filling pin holes in weave. Once that's sanded off smooth you could spray the last coat and have a pretty smooth surface that only needed light sanding before final painting. If you start off spraying, the Smooth Prime will act just like any other primer, bridging the pinhole until you sand it off, and then the pinhole reappears. Rolling is the secret, and that works well with Feather Fill too (I did my horizontal stab with it something like 6 years ago). You guys shamed me into another round of smoothing, so I just finished off another quart of Aeropoxy Light, and hopefully will be able to sand it down and shoot urethane primer tomorrow, if all goes well... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 05:23:44 -0500 To: From: "Dale Baldwin" Subject: Re: KR> Re: Glass plys Message-ID: <007001c292da$9c4b46a0$86fa5b0c@computername> I stand corrected, Dale Baldwin, KR-2 ATL moving to MSP ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Gangemi" To: Sent: Friday, November 22, 2002 6:06 AM Subject: KR> Re: Glass plys > The leading edge on a KR2s has FOUR glass plys. Two on top of the wing > over-lapping the main spar and wrapping around the leading edge, and two > on the bottom over-lapping the main spar and wrapping around the leading > edge, all with 11/2 to 2inch overlaps. This gives the leading edge 4 > plys. The wing step is another area where 3 or 4 plys may be desireable. > > Paul Gangemi > KR2s %50 or so > > PLG > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 12:21:15 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> flaps Message-ID: <00ab01c2931d$1cce9330$0100a8c0@TD310> Oscar Z wrote: > Back to the flap discussion (flap?) for more ideas... there are some details > of a split flap setup that could work with the KR wing, over on the W.A.R. > site. Go to the bottom of the 'construction tips' page, here- > > http://warbuddies.homestead.com/constructiontips~ns4.html Hmmm. Looks a whole lot like my split flaps! The only difference is that I mounted my flap lever to the back of the main spar (to give me more room and so I could reach it) and used a longer pushrod. The thing I found most interesting about this web page was the part about setting main gear toe-in. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 13:31:31 -0800 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "Lynn Hyder" Subject: Re: KR> flaps Message-ID: Mark Langford----You think you found the main gear toe-in interesting. Well I tell you what. I SURE DID.... I've ground looped three times. The last time, I went out through the sagebrush after taking out a runway light. I don't know about you but, I want to thank Oscar from the bottom of my heart for pointing out this web site... Thanks Oscar...........Lynn N37LH > >Oscar Z wrote: > > > Back to the flap discussion (flap?) for more ideas... there are some >details > > of a split flap setup that could work with the KR wing, over on the >W.A.R. > > site. Go to the bottom of the 'construction tips' page, here- > > > > http://warbuddies.homestead.com/constructiontips~ns4.html > >Hmmm. Looks a whole lot like my split flaps! The only difference is that >I >mounted my flap lever to the back of the main spar (to give me more room >and >so I could reach it) and used a longer pushrod. > >The thing I found most interesting about this web page was the part about >setting main gear toe-in. > >Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama >mailto:langford@hiwaay.net >see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > > >--------------------------------------------------------------------- >To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > >To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org >For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > >See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:04:26 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: JeboydF16@aol.com Subject: Triming the Canopy Message-ID: <4d.27d75d55.2b11475a@aol.com> Hello all, I have my canopy frame trimed, shaped and blocked in place and am ready to put in the canopy. Since I paid $$$$ for it I don't want it to split or crack as I trim it down. It is the one provided by Rand Robinson. Can I just use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade or must I use something else. Thanks: Shotgun ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:42:27 -0500 (EST) To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: paulwasp@webtv.net (Paul Gangemi) Subject: Re: KR> Triming the Canopy Message-ID: <26118-3DDFF643-5831@storefull-2196.public.lawson.webtv.net> Shotgun; This is how I did mine. I out-lined my cut line, and very carefully used a fine hacksaw blade by hand, patiently sawing on the line. After I had finished, I came across a very good tip on our KRnet utilizing masking tape with the cut line delineated on it, a great tip to help protect against cracking. Go slowly. Worked for me. I thought that "by hand", although much slower, was also much safer as opposed to an electric tool, Be sure to double-check your cut line to be sure it's where you want it. A conservative approach, but safe. PLG ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 15:46:19 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: Peg and Mike Meyer Subject: Re: KR> Triming the Canopy Message-id: <002501c29339$c21b8e80$2bc5fea9@o0c8u6> You can cut either lexan or plexiglas effectively using a carbide abrasion disk such as type used by Dremel tools or you can cut it on a bandsaw with a blade that has at least 18 teeth/in. I would really, really advise against the use of any reciprocating tool such as a jigsaw or sabre saw, because if that sucker snags your canopy, there will be some powerful language coming from your workshop...And shortly thereafter, another order will be forthcoming to Rand Robinson. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 3:04 PM Subject: KR> Triming the Canopy > Hello all, I have my canopy frame trimed, shaped and blocked in place and am > ready to put in the canopy. Since I paid $$$$ for it I don't want it to > split or crack as I trim it down. It is the one provided by Rand Robinson. > Can I just use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade or must I use something > else. Thanks: Shotgun > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 15:44:28 -0600 To: From: "Edwin Blocher" Subject: Re: KR> Triming the Canopy Message-ID: <003601c29339$80aaeea0$0201a8c0@computer> Todd recommends using plastic electrical tape (no left over residue when you remove it). Mark your cut line with a white marker and cut with a cut off blade, either the small Dremel one or a 4" in an angle grinder. Since Todds canopy gives you extra material on the front end I'll hace some to practice with both. Hope this helps. ED Ed Blocher Santa Rosa Beach, FL eblocher@earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2002 3:04 PM Subject: KR> Triming the Canopy > Hello all, I have my canopy frame trimed, shaped and blocked in place and am > ready to put in the canopy. Since I paid $$$$ for it I don't want it to > split or crack as I trim it down. It is the one provided by Rand Robinson. > Can I just use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade or must I use something > else. Thanks: Shotgun > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 19:55:00 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> Triming the Canopy Message-ID: <20021123.221813.-521693.3.virgnvs@juno.com> Virg here, DREMEL VIRG that is. Use a Dremel tool with a fiberglass cutting wheel They come in 1 1/4" and 1 1/2". Try it, Virg. Use the flex shaft. On Sat, 23 Nov 2002 16:04:26 EST JeboydF16@aol.com writes: > Hello all, I have my canopy frame trimed, shaped and blocked in place > and am > ready to put in the canopy. Since I paid $$$$ for it I don't want > it to > split or crack as I trim it down. It is the one provided by Rand > Robinson. > Can I just use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade or must I use > something > else. Thanks: Shotgun > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2002 17:00:28 EST To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: JeboydF16@aol.com Subject: Trimming the Canopy Message-ID: <194.10b0f9c9.2b11547c@aol.com> Thanks guys for the help and good advice. I will dump the jig saw idea and go with a hack saw or my dremmel tool. Shotgun ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2002 08:06:22 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: larry flesner Subject: smooth prime/sanding Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20021124080622.00897730@mail.midwest.net> >>Hi all: And no, I didn't check the archives >>first. I was just hoping someone had a fast >>answer that has used UV Smooth Prime. >>About what is the dry time between coats when one >>sands before the next coat? Are we talking an >>hour, hours, or over night? And at what temp >>were you at when you did yours? >>Tim ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= Tim, Never mind the archives, read the "Smooth Prime" manual. All these questions are answer there and more. Your questions indicate to me you haven't read it yet or need to re-read it. It only takes 15 minutes and will save you TIME and MONEY. As for the manual directions for "shaking" the primer to get the solids suspended again and then wait for the air bubbles to disappear, save yourself some time. Use one of those small propeller mixers on a 1/4" drill. Takes about 20 minutes of mixing. No trip to the store, no bubbles, no problem. There is a huge amount of solids in this stuff. Get it ALL off the bottom. As for sanding between coats, I'd recommend a light sanding after each two coats. That eliminates ALL the sanding at the end of the job and, I think, is the better way to go. If you roll a ridge of primer on the surface on the first coat, and you will, why build it up with five more coat of primer before sanding it off? Finally, if you had checked the archives I wouldn't have had to re-type some advise I feel I ought to share. It's already there. O.K. kids, you may go back out and play now! :-) Larry Flesner ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************