From: To: Subject: krnet Digest 27 Jan 2003 00:50:25 -0000 Issue 613 Date: Sunday, January 26, 2003 4:51 PM krnet Digest 27 Jan 2003 00:50:25 -0000 Issue 613 Topics (messages 14649 through 14678): Drill size conversion? 14649 by: Dan Heath 14650 by: Edwin Blocher 14651 by: Mark Langford 14654 by: wstarrs 14655 by: virgnvs.juno.com 14657 by: Dan Heath 14658 by: Dan Heath 14661 by: virgnvs.juno.com 14668 by: B109pro.aol.com emgine 14652 by: Edwin Blocher 14653 by: Mark Langford Re: Missed out on this!!! 14656 by: virgnvs.juno.com Bent center spars 14659 by: Leigh Plymale 14660 by: Mark Langford 14672 by: Edwin Blocher 14678 by: G Holt Re: Drill size conversion?/Bolt Size 14662 by: Phillip Matheson WAF bolts 14663 by: Bob.flyboybob.com 14664 by: kevin 14665 by: Mark Langford 14666 by: norm-ruth 14667 by: norm-ruth 14669 by: bill kirkland 14670 by: JEHayward.aol.com 14673 by: virgnvs.juno.com 14675 by: gleone Re: Seat Comfort Study 14671 by: bill kirkland WWing attach fittings 14674 by: Robert Stone Bent wing spars 14676 by: Leigh Plymale anyone ready to sell? 14677 by: smoothweasel.juno.com Administrivia: To subscribe to the digest, e-mail: To unsubscribe from the digest, e-mail: To post to the list, e-mail: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 15:15:43 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: "Krnet@Mailinglists.Org (E-mail)" From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Drill size conversion? Message-Id: <3E331A9F.000003.01212@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_7YLAG6G0000000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Does anyone know how to convert a decimal size into a numbered drill bit size? For instance, AN3 bolts are .188, not .1875, so a 3/16 or .1875 dr= ill will not do. What size to use? =0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Red Oak - 2003=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20 --------------Boundary-00=_7YLAG6G0000000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 14:14:18 -0600 To: From: "Edwin Blocher" Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? Message-ID: <002101c2c4ae$576537c0$0201a8c0@computer> Dan, My 3/16 bit drilled a very snug, tight enough, hole for my WAF's. You may need to experiment with different bits. Ed Ed Blocher Santa Rosa Beach, FL eblocher@earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Heath" To: "Krnet@Mailinglists.Org (E-mail)" Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 5:15 PM Subject: KR> Drill size conversion? Does anyone know how to convert a decimal size into a numbered drill bit size? For instance, AN3 bolts are .188, not .1875, so a 3/16 or .1875 drill will not do. What size to use? N64KR Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC DanRH@KR-Builder.org See you in Red Oak - 2003 See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 14:22:45 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? Message-ID: <007401c2c4af$866dd120$0802a8c0@TD310> Dan Heath wrote: >>Does anyone know how to convert a decimal size into a numbered drill bit size? << There's a drill size chart at http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drillsize.htm , but if you really need a hole sized perfectly, you need a reamer, available at the local machine shop supply place, or off the web at http://www.precisionmachinerysupply.com/ or somewhere similar. The only place I can think of that's that critical on a typical KR is the wing attach fittings. And you need to measure the actual bolt itself, because there's a tolerance on those as well. Some are larger than others! Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 17:34:37 -0700 To: From: "wstarrs" Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? Message-ID: <003a01c2c4d2$b51dcac0$9200a8c0@bstarrs> I like to keep my WAF nice and loose so the wings flap like a bird, for better lift. Before every one reaches for the flame throwers , I'm just kidding. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Langford" To: Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 1:22 PM Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? > Dan Heath wrote: > > >>Does anyone know how to convert a decimal size into a numbered drill bit > size? << > > There's a drill size chart at > http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drillsize.htm , but if you really need > a hole sized perfectly, you need a reamer, available at the local machine > shop supply place, or off the web at > http://www.precisionmachinerysupply.com/ or somewhere similar. The only > place I can think of that's that critical on a typical KR is the wing attach > fittings. And you need to measure the actual bolt itself, because there's a > tolerance on those as well. Some are larger than others! > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:32:43 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? Message-ID: <20030125.204152.-419979.3.virgnvs@juno.com> Drill and Ream, Virg On Sat, 25 Jan 2003 15:15:43 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) "Dan Heath" writes: > Does anyone know how to convert a decimal size into a numbered drill > bit > size? For instance, AN3 bolts are .188, not .1875, so a 3/16 or > .1875 drill > will not do. What size to use? > > N64KR > > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC > > DanRH@KR-Builder.org > > See you in Red Oak - 2003 > > See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org > Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL WWW.LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:50:13 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? Message-Id: <3E336905.00000F.01212@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_PF1BSPT1VA4000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Just to set the record streight, our WAFs have been installed for 10 year= s.=20 I have just had a problem with some AN3 bolts. Some fit a 3/16 hole and some don't. I was looking for a numbered bit that comes close to .188 an= d there is one that is .190 which should work for those that don't fit a 3/= 16 hole.=0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Red Oak - 2003=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KRnet@mailinglists.org=0D Date: Saturday, January 25, 2003 04:35:02 PM=0D To: KRnet@mailinglists.org=0D Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion?=0D =0D I like to keep my WAF nice and loose so the wings flap like a bird, for=0D better lift. Before every one reaches for the flame throwers , I'm just=0D kidding.=0D ----- Original Message -----=0D From: "Mark Langford" =0D To: =0D Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 1:22 PM=0D Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion?=0D =0D =0D > Dan Heath wrote:=0D >=0D > >>Does anyone know how to convert a decimal size into a numbered drill = bit=0D > size? <<=0D >=0D > There's a drill size chart at=0D > http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-drillsize.htm , but if you really=0D need=0D > a hole sized perfectly, you need a reamer, available at the local machi= ne=0D > shop supply place, or off the web at=0D > http://www.precisionmachinerysupply.com/ or somewhere similar. The only= =0D > place I can think of that's that critical on a typical KR is the wing=0D attach=0D > fittings. And you need to measure the actual bolt itself, because there= 's=0D a=0D > tolerance on those as well. Some are larger than others!=0D >=0D > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama=0D > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net=0D > see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford=0D >=0D >=0D > ---------------------------------------------------------------------=0D > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all"=0D >=0D > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org=0D > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org=0D >=0D > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp=0D > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files=0D >=0D >=0D =0D =0D =0D ---------------------------------------------------------------------=0D To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all"=0D =0D To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org =0D For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org=0D =0D See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp=0D or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files=0D =0D =2E=20 --------------Boundary-00=_PF1BSPT1VA4000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:51:25 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) To: From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? Message-Id: <3E33694D.000011.01212@dan> --------------Boundary-00=_PH1BIA11VA4000000000 Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I haven't been able to find a reamer locally and would not know how to us= e one if I had it. =0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Red Oak - 2003=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KRnet@mailinglists.org=0D Date: Saturday, January 25, 2003 05:41:41 PM=0D To: KRnet@mailinglists.org=0D Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion?=0D =0D Drill and Ream, Virg=0D =0D On Sat, 25 Jan 2003 15:15:43 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) "Dan Heath"=0D writes:=0D > Does anyone know how to convert a decimal size into a numbered drill =0D > bit=0D > size? For instance, AN3 bolts are .188, not .1875, so a 3/16 or =0D > .1875 drill=0D > will not do. What size to use? =0D =0D > =0D =0D > N64KR=0D =0D > =0D =0D > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D > =0D =0D > DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D > =0D =0D > See you in Red Oak - 2003=0D =0D > =0D =0D > See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D =0D > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =0D > =0D =0D =0D Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL=0D WWW.LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY=0D =0D ---------------------------------------------------------------------=0D To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all"=0D =0D To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org =0D For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org=0D =0D See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp=0D or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files=0D =0D =2E=20 --------------Boundary-00=_PH1BIA11VA4000000000-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:45:48 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? Message-ID: <20030125.214620.-344447.2.virgnvs@juno.com> Tool supply houses. Take to a shop and let them ream them. These bolts should be covered with epoxy and the holes epoxied on the inside before installing. THEY MUST BE A TIGHT FIT, Virg On Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:51:25 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) "Dan Heath" writes: > I haven't been able to find a reamer locally and would not know how > to use > one if I had it. > > N64KR > > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC > > DanRH@KR-Builder.org > > See you in Red Oak - 2003 > > See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org > > -------Original Message------- > > From: KRnet@mailinglists.org > Date: Saturday, January 25, 2003 05:41:41 PM > To: KRnet@mailinglists.org > Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? > > Drill and Ream, Virg > > On Sat, 25 Jan 2003 15:15:43 -0800 (Pacific Standard Time) "Dan > Heath" > writes: > > Does anyone know how to convert a decimal size into a numbered > drill > > bit > > size? For instance, AN3 bolts are .188, not .1875, so a 3/16 or > > .1875 drill > > will not do. What size to use? > > > > > > N64KR > > > > > > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC > > > > > > DanRH@KR-Builder.org > > > > > > See you in Red Oak - 2003 > > > > > > See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic > > > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org > > > > > > Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL > WWW.LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > . Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL WWW.LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:20:08 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: B109pro@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion? Message-ID: <1ef.3d840c.2b6580d8@aol.com> --part1_1ef.3d840c.2b6580d8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You might try British "Wetworth or Witworth" (something like that!), they have different sizes of a lot of stuff. ???????? Best regards and blue skies, Skip Brooks EAA47 --part1_1ef.3d840c.2b6580d8_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 14:17:41 -0600 To: "Corvaircraft" From: "Edwin Blocher" Cc: "KRNet" Subject: emgine Message-ID: <002a01c2c4ae$d0a011a0$0201a8c0@computer> ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C2C47C.857632E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I just spent the better half of my 68th birthday dissassembling my = engine. I'm exceited about how it looks. I'll take some pics and send to = someone if you would like to post them. ED Ed Blocher Santa Rosa Beach, FL eblocher@earthlink.net ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C2C47C.857632E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 16:07:56 -0600 To: , From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> emgine Message-ID: <00af01c2c4be$3817cf30$0802a8c0@TD310> Ed Blocher wrote: >>I just spent the better half of my 68th birthday dissassembling my engine. I'm exceited about how it looks. I'll take some pics and send to someone if you would like to post them.<< I posted them at the bottom of his KR2S "bent spar" web page at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/eblocher/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:44:37 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> Missed out on this!!! Message-ID: <20030125.204438.-419979.4.virgnvs@juno.com> I got one, I think it was Green. First KR-2 Plans-$20, later $25. Virg On Fri, 24 Jan 2003 23:05:12 -0600 "Mark Jones" writes: > Here is the correct link....sorry. I sure wish I had this. > > > Take a look at this piece of KR nostalgia from 1974 we all missed > out on. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=14051&item=2154230 454 > &rd=1 > > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL WWW.LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:26:01 -0500 To: From: "Leigh Plymale" Subject: Bent center spars Message-ID: <008201c2c4e2$456512a0$14853518@chvlva.adelphia.net> ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C2C4B8.5C212DA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am very interested in the bent type spars.First is their just 1 bend, = in the center, or are both ends bent up to maintain a flat fuse bottom? = Also I assume they are laminated form thinner spar stock so that the = pieces can be deformed. Does this produce a stronger spar as is the case = with most laminates? Leigh Plymale FlyBoy232@adelphia.net ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01C2C4B8.5C212DA0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:39:06 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Bent center spars Message-ID: <00e201c2c4e4$19863a90$0802a8c0@TD310> Leigh Plymale wrote: >>I am very interested in the bent type spars.First is their just 1 bend, in the center, or are both ends bent up to maintain a flat fuse bottom? Also I assume they are laminated form thinner spar stock so that the pieces can be deformed. Does this produce a stronger spar as is the case with most laminates?<< I think I'd start bending them just inside the fuselage, leaving most of the interior part horizontal, but bending them so that the bend occurs right at the fuselage wall. Laminating them out of 1/4" or 3/8" strips, they'll be stronger, if for no other reason, if there is some imperfection that would normally go undectected in a piece of 1" thick spruce, you'll find it in a piece of quarter inch. And even if you don't find it, when you laminate it between two GOOD pieces, it'll help minimize the problem. You want to bend it pretty quickly so you can put the wing templates as close as possible to the fuselage, so you won't have to "improvise" the airfoil over very much distance. You can bend these easily on a table by gluing the strips together while the whole thing is jigged up. When you remove the blocks, it'll stay that way. The bent-up spar thing makes stub wing tanks drain better, WAF alignment far easier, and looks better, in my humble opinion. Landing gear will get just a tad shorter, and will have to be set at an angle to compensate. And if you don't need to remove the wings, this makes it easy to make one piece spar caps... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 14:42:25 -0600 To: From: "Edwin Blocher" Subject: Re: KR> Bent center spars Message-ID: <005f01c2c57b$6ff26100$0201a8c0@computer> Mark mostly answered your questions. My spars are bent just at the fuselage. My wing templates are 1/2" from the fuselage side. I laminated 8 pieces of 1/4" for the front spar and 4 pieces of 1/4" for the rear spar. I used 1/4" inch to gea a smaller bend radius. One tip is to not laminate more than 3 pieces at a time (3 today, 3 tomorrow and 2 the next day. If you try ti do more than 3 you will most likely not squeeze all the excess glue out. I did all 8 on my first spar and had an expensive sample of how not to do it at the last gathering at Lake Barkley. If anyone wants to try bent spars I have some pictures somewhere of how I jigged and clamped it. ED Ed Blocher Santa Rosa Beach, FL eblocher@earthlink.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Leigh Plymale" To: Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 8:26 PM Subject: KR> Bent center spars I am very interested in the bent type spars.First is their just 1 bend, in the center, or are both ends bent up to maintain a flat fuse bottom? Also I assume they are laminated form thinner spar stock so that the pieces can be deformed. Does this produce a stronger spar as is the case with most laminates? Leigh Plymale FlyBoy232@adelphia.net ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 17:33:24 -0800 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: "G Holt" Subject: Re: KR> Bent center spars Message-ID: <008801c2c5a4$1650d5e0$0300a8c0@ocnsd1.sdca.home.com> He Ed, I'd love to see the pictures of your center spar laminations. Thank you, Garland ----- Original Message ----- From: "Edwin Blocher" To: Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 12:42 PM Subject: Re: KR> Bent center spars .... > If anyone wants to try bent spars I have some pictures somewhere of how I > jigged and clamped it. > ED > Ed Blocher .... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 16:29:18 +1100 To: From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Drill size conversion?/Bolt Size Message-ID: <001f01c2c4fb$e0f84e80$0100a8c0@barry> When I got my KR the aircraft bolts that were used , are 3 /1000 smaller than new bolts you buy now.The new ones make a great fit. The older bolts have smaller heads also. & I have used AF & Metric spanners, and still do not know what size fits them, So I'm replacing every bolt in the plane, And just as well, because the lock nuts do not lock very well. I would have thought they wood all be the same. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au 61 3 58833588 NSW Australia. See our VW engines at; www.vw-engines.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 07:50:39 -0600 To: "KRnet" From: "Bob@flyboybob.com" Subject: WAF bolts Message-ID: Netheads, Several years ago I removed a few wing attach fitting bolts to install the aileron bell-crank mount. I found that the bolts were rusted. To cure this problem I removed all of the bolts and replaced them with new bolts. Using a q-tip I swabbed the inside of the bolt holes with epoxy and then applied a thin coat of epoxy to the bolts. I agree with Virg that you should epoxy your WAF bolts to achieve a tight fit. In addition it seals the wood from wicking moisture to the bolts which can cause the WAF bolts to rust. Regards, B O B L E E ____________________________ N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA USA 90% done, only 50% to go! mailto:bob@flyboybob.com http://flyboybob.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 09:07:19 -0600 To: From: "kevin" Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts Message-ID: <000501c2c54c$9f6555c0$76363a41@hppav> What are my chances of ever getting these epoxied bolts back out again? Kevin. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob@flyboybob.com" To: "KRnet" Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 7:50 AM Subject: KR> WAF bolts > Netheads, > > Several years ago I removed a few wing attach fitting bolts to install the > aileron bell-crank mount. I found that the bolts were rusted. To cure this > problem I removed all of the bolts and replaced them with new bolts. Using > a q-tip I swabbed the inside of the bolt holes with epoxy and then applied a > thin coat of epoxy to the bolts. I agree with Virg that you should epoxy > your WAF bolts to achieve a tight fit. In addition it seals the wood from > wicking moisture to the bolts which can cause the WAF bolts to rust. > > Regards, > > B O B L E E > ____________________________ > N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA USA > 90% done, only 50% to go! > mailto:bob@flyboybob.com > http://flyboybob.com > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 09:15:34 -0600 To: From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts Message-ID: <010701c2c54d$c653f5a0$0802a8c0@TD310> Kevin wrote: > What are my chances of ever getting these epoxied bolts back out again? I have a little experience with this, being famous for changing my mind about how to do something, immediately AFTER the epoxy has cured. It's amazing easy. Put a wrench on it and twist pretty hard, and it'll break loose, even with T-88 on it. The main purpose of the epoxy is to remove any slack space between bolt and wood, and to make the wood stronger (it'll soak in) in the immediate vicinity of the hole. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama mailto:langford@hiwaay.net see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 10:16:50 -0800 To: From: "norm-ruth" Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts Message-ID: <001f01c2c567$d966ede0$94ea3a41@pavilion> Probably -0-. Norm ----- Original Message ----- From: "kevin" To: Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 7:07 AM Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts > What are my chances of ever getting these epoxied bolts back out again? > > Kevin. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob@flyboybob.com" > To: "KRnet" > Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 7:50 AM > Subject: KR> WAF bolts > > > > Netheads, > > > > Several years ago I removed a few wing attach fitting bolts to install the > > aileron bell-crank mount. I found that the bolts were rusted. To cure > this > > problem I removed all of the bolts and replaced them with new bolts. > Using > > a q-tip I swabbed the inside of the bolt holes with epoxy and then applied > a > > thin coat of epoxy to the bolts. I agree with Virg that you should epoxy > > your WAF bolts to achieve a tight fit. In addition it seals the wood from > > wicking moisture to the bolts which can cause the WAF bolts to rust. > > > > Regards, > > > > B O B L E E > > ____________________________ > > N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA USA > > 90% done, only 50% to go! > > mailto:bob@flyboybob.com > > http://flyboybob.com > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 10:38:14 -0800 To: From: "norm-ruth" Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts Message-ID: <004a01c2c56a$17237480$94ea3a41@pavilion> It appears I was wrong. Experience is better than conjecture. Norm ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Langford" To: Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 7:15 AM Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts > Kevin wrote: > > > What are my chances of ever getting these epoxied bolts back out again? > > I have a little experience with this, being famous for changing my mind > about how to do something, immediately AFTER the epoxy has cured. > > It's amazing easy. Put a wrench on it and twist pretty hard, and it'll > break loose, even with T-88 on it. The main purpose of the epoxy is to > remove any slack space between bolt and wood, and to make the wood stronger > (it'll soak in) in the immediate vicinity of the hole. > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:37:43 -0500 To: From: "bill kirkland" Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts Message-ID: <002901c2c56a$04c638e0$eb942a18@lndn.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> Kevin; You may not be aware of it but every message you send asks for a receipt. It's a bit annoying. Request you fix the problem pse. W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND kirkland@vianet.on.ca ----- Original Message ----- From: "kevin" To: Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 10:07 AM Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts > What are my chances of ever getting these epoxied bolts back out again? > > Kevin. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob@flyboybob.com" > To: "KRnet" > Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 7:50 AM > Subject: KR> WAF bolts > > > > Netheads, > > > > Several years ago I removed a few wing attach fitting bolts to install the > > aileron bell-crank mount. I found that the bolts were rusted. To cure > this > > problem I removed all of the bolts and replaced them with new bolts. > Using > > a q-tip I swabbed the inside of the bolt holes with epoxy and then applied > a > > thin coat of epoxy to the bolts. I agree with Virg that you should epoxy > > your WAF bolts to achieve a tight fit. In addition it seals the wood from > > wicking moisture to the bolts which can cause the WAF bolts to rust. > > > > Regards, > > > > B O B L E E > > ____________________________ > > N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA USA > > 90% done, only 50% to go! > > mailto:bob@flyboybob.com > > http://flyboybob.com > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:44:12 EST To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: JEHayward@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts Message-ID: <72.2958edc8.2b65867c@aol.com> In a message dated 1/26/03 8:08:37 AM Mountain Standard Time, tinyauto@earthlink.net writes: << What are my chances of ever getting these epoxied bolts back out again? >> A good coat of wax on the bolt shaft should allow you to remove it if the heads aren't epoxied over. Jim Hayward Rapid City, SD ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 16:26:58 -0500 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: virgnvs@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts Message-ID: <20030126.163414.-406879.1.virgnvs@juno.com> These bolts are epoxied to the SPAR. Why, did you break the spar ? Virg On Sun, 26 Jan 2003 09:07:19 -0600 "kevin" writes: > What are my chances of ever getting these epoxied bolts back out > again? > > Kevin. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob@flyboybob.com" > To: "KRnet" > Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2003 7:50 AM > Subject: KR> WAF bolts > > > > Netheads, > > > > Several years ago I removed a few wing attach fitting bolts to > install the > > aileron bell-crank mount. I found that the bolts were rusted. To > cure > this > > problem I removed all of the bolts and replaced them with new > bolts. > Using > > a q-tip I swabbed the inside of the bolt holes with epoxy and then > applied > a > > thin coat of epoxy to the bolts. I agree with Virg that you > should epoxy > > your WAF bolts to achieve a tight fit. In addition it seals the > wood from > > wicking moisture to the bolts which can cause the WAF bolts to > rust. > > > > Regards, > > > > B O B L E E > > ____________________________ > > N52BL KR2 Suwanee, GA USA > > 90% done, only 50% to go! > > mailto:bob@flyboybob.com > > http://flyboybob.com > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > > > See the KRNet archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply > all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > > Virgil N. Salisbury AMSOIL WWW.LUBEDEALER.COM/SALISBURY ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 09:20:29 -0600 To: KRnet@mailinglists.org From: gleone Subject: Re: KR> WAF bolts Message-ID: <3E33FCBC.EB276AC4@tritel.net> --------------885C9BF42F0B2BD870C5F84F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In bedding rifle actions, I use 'bedding pillars bolts' to cinch the action down into the epoxy-like bedding compound. To prevent the action from becoming "one with the stock" ad infinitum, I liberally (hard for a Conservative to do! LOL) coat the action with a good paste car wax like Turtle Wax. Once the bedding compound has cured, a light tap from a leather mallet breaks the action free. The same can be done with the bolts: coat them with a good PASTE car wax (not the wimpy whipped cream squeeze goo) and removing them should be simple. Mark Langford wrote: > Kevin wrote: > > > What are my chances of ever getting these epoxied bolts back out again? > > I have a little experience with this, being famous for changing my mind > about how to do something, immediately AFTER the epoxy has cured. > > It's amazing easy. Put a wrench on it and twist pretty hard, and it'll > break loose, even with T-88 on it. The main purpose of the epoxy is to > remove any slack space between bolt and wood, and to make the wood stronger > (it'll soak in) in the immediate vicinity of the hole. > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > mailto:langford@hiwaay.net > see KR2S N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files --------------885C9BF42F0B2BD870C5F84F-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 13:56:27 -0500 To: , From: "bill kirkland" Subject: Re: KR> Seat Comfort Study Message-ID: <008e01c2c56c$a211a380$eb942a18@lndn.phub.net.cable.rogers.com> Chris; Whatch it. I have some of those space age conforming foam cushions. I understand that they become solid at below freezing temps. But it never freezes in Oshawa does it! W.G.(Bill) KIRKLAND (now in Tillsonburg) hhtp : Wkirkland@rogers.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "chris gardiner" To: Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 11:08 AM Subject: Re: KR> Seat Comfort Study > Okay, I feel qualified to give an opinion on this one. > > I have the standard sling seat in my KR2S that I flew for 16 hours to > the KR Gathering in Red Oak last year. All the way from Toronto , Canada > to RDK in the sling seat with a 2" slab of standard foam cushion. > > The sling seat is actually pretty good but it puts a pressure point > right on your tail bone area and I ended up with an actual friction burn. > > My solution is to replace the 2" standard foam with some of the energy > absorbing type ( CONFOR) to help distribute my weight ( 195 -200 lbs) > better, for the long flight again next year to RDK. > This stuff is expensive no matter where you buy it but I believe well > worth it .Your butt will thank you. > > Contact Hi-Tech foams for information ( seatfoam@inetnebr.com)or > www.seatfoam.com > > Regards > > Chris Gardiner > C-GKRZ > > > > Scott Cable wrote: > > >Netters, > >I have some questions in regard to the KR Seat in flying KR's. > > > >I have a hunch from studying the plans, that the plans built "sling" seat looks very unsupportive, and uncomfortable, especially in the lower thigh area. Do your legs and feet fall asleep while in flight? > > > >When flying your KR for long flights, what makes your seat uncomfortable? > >Lack of support? Pressure points? No lumbar support? Lack of adjustment? Are you sitting on some form of foam pad to augment the sling? If so what? > > > > > > > > > >Scott Cable > >KR-2S # 735 > >Livonia, MI > >s2cable1@yahoo.com > > > > > >--------------------------------- > >Do you Yahoo!? > >Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > To post to the list, email: krnet@mailinglists.org , NOT "reply all" > > To UNsubscribe, e-mail: krnet-unsubscribe@mailinglists.org > For additional commands, e-mail: krnet-help@mailinglists.org > > See the KRNet archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > or http://www.bouyea.net/ for the Word files > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 15:50:11 -0600 To: "KRNet" From: "Robert Stone" Subject: WWing attach fittings Message-ID: <002401c2c584$e9e8d3a0$05d81a18@hot.rr.com> ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C2C552.9BF7E5A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Netters, I have seen a lot of traffic of the KRNet concerning wing attach=20 fittings and from it I see that most of you think that a perfect fit is = necessary. There are KR aircraft flying all over the world by the = hundreds that have been built during the time I built and most of the = WAF hardware was not a perfect fit and I have never heard of a wing on = one failing at the fitting. I built both the KR-l and the KR-2 back in the 70's and know if you = drill the holes the size called for, for the bolt to be used, then use=20 high shear strength aircraft bolts and a new lock nut, you will not have = a problem even if there is a few thousands of an inch slack. I'm not = even sure the torque put on the nut is critical just good and tight. Now if anyone disagrees with and want to use his flame thrower on = me, have at it. Bob Stone, Harker Heights, Tx. rstone4@hot.rr.com ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C2C552.9BF7E5A0-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 18:17:37 -0500 To: From: "Leigh Plymale" Subject: Bent wing spars Message-ID: <005b01c2c591$1e227660$14853518@chvlva.adelphia.net> ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C2C567.34E7B920 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks Mark and Ed. Mark you hit the nail on the head with regard to the wing tanks. Since = I am contemplating wing tanks only, fuel flow is critical. While you = solution with the inboard header tank is a novel approach, it sounds = like a ton of work. Ed, yes please send me all the pictures and info you can. I fully = intend to learn from experience. Also a thought, did you lay up the = spars starting with the smallest radius first (top) and work to the = largest (bottom)? Leigh Plymale flyboy232@adelphia.net ------=_NextPart_000_0058_01C2C567.34E7B920-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 17:04:57 -0600 To: krnet@mailinglists.org From: smoothweasel@juno.com Subject: KR>anyone ready to sell? Message-ID: <20030126.170515.-2006573.0.smoothweasel@juno.com> Hello, I am interested in buying a flying kr2s. prefurably a fixed tail dragger. If anyone has one or knows of one that is for sell will you please let me know. you can ether reply here or off line to: smoothweasel@juno.com ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com ------------------------------ End of krnet Digest ***********************************