From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net on behalf of krnet-request@mylist.net Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 12:00 PM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 197, Issue 2 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: VW Engine Rockers (Scott Cable) 2. KR2 project for sale ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 09:50:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Scott Cable To: KR builders and pilots Subject: Re: KR>VW Engine Rockers Message-ID: <20031023165026.67386.qmail@web40808.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <1093.66.196.7.14.1066835478.squirrel@www.vvm.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 1 The shims are there to correct the valvetrain geometry, that is where the rocker arm contacts the valve. This is necesisary to compensate for differences in deck height between the cylinders. Essentially, what's required is after you have established the correct deck height of the cylinders, and the cases and heads are torqued, you run the adjustment screw about halfway through the rocker (or whatever dimension is called out in the overhaul manual), install and torque the rocker arms and then check to see where the rocker arm pad contacts on the top of the valve. The contact point should be in the center of the valve. Shim the rocker stand as required or "adjust" the pushrod length to obtain the best contact region on all of the valves on that head. Repeat the process on the opposite head. --- bgdfix@vvm.com wrote: My question, when I took the thing > apart there were > shims under the rockers. What is the proper way to > shim the rockers? > Are they there just so you can get the proper valve > adjustment screw > engagement? or should I just put it togeather and > see how the valves > adjust, then shim if I have a problem? > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ===== Scott Cable KR-2S # 735 Wright City, MO s2cable1@yahoo.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search http://shopping.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 14:01:16 EDT From: Waldokr2@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>KR2 project for sale Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 2 I lost my medical so I am selling my KR2 project. I have $4,600 plus in receipts and am asking $2,500. I live in Gainesville, FL and have built several homebuilts. I have been told by several builders, including Tom Crawford here in Gainesville, that the workmanship is excellent. It is a stock KR-2, no major modifications. If you're thinking of building a KR2, you could save over $2,100 plus on parts and materials, and have approx. 50% of the work done. Photos can be seen at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/waldo/ The project includes the following; West System epoxy was used throughout, including to seal interior surfaces. Dual sticks (R/R) are installed Rudder pedals with toe brakes,(Matco), are installed Aileron cables, with all brackets, pulleys, etc., are installed Center spars are installed, with wing attach fittings installed. Outer spars are completed, wing attach fittings installed on fwd outer spars only 1/4 ply firewall installed Elevator cable brackets made Main gear (Diehl) installed with axles, wheels and tires (Matco). Rudder, elevator and horizontal stabilizer are glassed, and hinged. Vertical stabilizer spars epoxied in place 2 NACA Air Scoops installed Cockpit sides, floor and firewall have been soundproofed using 1/2" foam plus 1/8" soundproofing rubber foam (total 5/8"), covered with 1/16" Finnish birch a/c ply. All control cables have fork ends installed. Materials, (carbon fiber, lastofoam, peelply) to build seats as per Mark Landford Plus foam, ply, spruce, AN nuts & bolts, alum to complete. Includes a 48 drawer plastic parts cabinet with AN bolts and other aircraft hardware. If you have any questions, you can email or give me a call. If you call and I'm out, please leave a message and I'll return your call. Bob McDonough waldokr2@aol.com 3308 NW 38th Street Gainesville,FL 32606 352 379 3144 ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 197, Issue 2 *************************************