From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net on behalf of krnet-request@mylist.net Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 5:03 AM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 219, Issue 1 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. KR2 project - reduced to $2,000 2. Belly Board (larry flesner) 3. Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment (Bob Sauer) 4. Re: Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment 5. Re: Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment (Bob Sauer) 6. Re: Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment (Bob Sauer) 7. Re: Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment (Dan Heath) 8. Re: Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment (Mark Jones) 9. Re: Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment (Bob Sauer) 10. Re: Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment (Mark Jones) 11. Steve Jones Pics (Dan Heath) 12. Re: Steve Jones Pics 13. Filling pinholes (Leigh Plymale) 14. Re: Engine stumble (Brian Kraut) 15. VW spark plug torque (Brian Kraut) 16. 8" Rim (Steve and Lori McGee) 17. Re: 8" Rim (Mark Langford) 18. Re: Filling pinholes (Steven Eberhart) 19. Re: Aileron Control (Phil Matheson) 20. Hi every body (alphabravo pilot) 21. Re: Steve Jones Pics (Dan Heath) 22. Re: Steve Jones Pics (Scott Cable) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:57:16 EST From: Waldokr2@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>KR2 project - reduced to $2,000 Message-ID: <31.4080ff3e.2ce5583c@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 1 I lost my medical so I am selling my KR2 project. I have $4,600 plus in receipts and am asking $2,000. I live in Gainesville, FL and have built several homebuilts. I have been told by several builders, including Tom Crawford here in Gainesville, that the workmanship is excellent. It is a stock KR-2, no major modifications. If you're thinking of building a KR2, you could save over $2,600 plus on parts and materials, and have approx. 50% of the work done. Photos can be seen at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/waldo/ The project includes the following; West System epoxy was used throughout, including to seal interior surfaces. Dual sticks (R/R) are installed Rudder pedals with toe brakes,(Matco), are installed Aileron cables, with all brackets, pulleys, etc., are installed Center spars are installed, with wing attach fittings installed. Outer spars are completed, wing attach fittings installed on fwd outer spars only 1/4 ply firewall installed Elevator cable brackets made Main gear (Diehl) installed with axles, wheels and tires (Matco). Rudder, elevator and horizontal stabilizer are glassed, and hinged. Vertical stabilizer spars epoxied in place 2 NACA Air Scoops installed Cockpit sides, floor and firewall have been soundproofed using 1/2" foam plus 1/8" soundproofing rubber foam (total 5/8"), covered with 1/16" Finnish birch a/c ply. All control cables have fork ends installed. Materials, (carbon fiber, lastofoam, peelply) to build seats as per Mark Langford Plus foam, ply, spruce, AN nuts & bolts, alum to complete. Includes a 48 drawer plastic parts cabinet with AN bolts and other aircraft hardware. If you have any questions, you can email or give me a call. If you call and I'm out, please leave a message and I'll return your call. Bob McDonough waldokr2@aol.com 3308 NW 38th Street Gainesville,FL 32606 352 379 3144 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:40:54 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>Belly Board Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031113164054.007f6760@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <20031113.123450.2400.0.klw1953@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 2 I built my own actuator mechanism that >deflects the aluminum belly board to 60 deg. I thought I wanted 90 deg >as well but ended up w/60. This works very well as I cut my landing >distance by approx 1/3. But at 70 mph over the #'s you must pay >attention as the sink rate is incredable. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Ken, What size is your bellyboard? Where on the fuselage is it attached? Do you have holes in it or is it solid? For those of you flying KR's with bellyboards it would be nice to have the above info plus the following: If you have a VSI (vert.speed indicator) could you set up a glide at a controlled airspeed and note the decent rate. Then deflect the bellyboard to the max and holding the same airspeed again note the decent rate. I'm planning to make that a part of my test flying to see how effective my bellyboard is. Mine is 9" X 30", capable of deflecting to 90 degrees and has a number of 3/4" or 1" holes, I don't recall which. I'd like to get the same drag profile that the Tripacer has on landing for getting into shorter strips. If I could get the Fed's to get the paperwork cleared so I can get the inspection scheduled I should know soon. I'm trying to get an "out of district inspector" to make the inspection so I can save $400 ! Time's a wasting! Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:43:40 -0700 From: "Bob Sauer" To: "kr" Subject: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Message-ID: <006701c3aa48$5931a9a0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 3 I am having a difficult time adjusting the movement of the control stick = and the elevator. Getting the down 20 degree is possible, but getting = the up 30 degree with less than deflecting the control stick to the = point where the top of it is at the rear spar is not possible. Does = anyone have suggestions. I used the RR center stick and built the = elevator control horn per plans. I am using cables. Thanks,=20 Bob Sauer SCW From: resauer@cox.netFrom DanRH@alltel.net Thu Nov 13 16:48:38 2003 Received: from mta01.alltel.net ([166.102.165.143] helo=mta01-srv.alltel.net) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AKS8c-0000y4-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Thu, 13 Nov 2003 16:48:38 -0800 Received: from Computer ([151.213.95.136]) by mta01-srv.alltel.net with SMTP id <20031114005347.ZJAL4162.mta01-srv.alltel.net@Computer> for ; Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:53:47 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Message-Id: <3FB427A3.000012.02276@Computer> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:53:55 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) X-Mailer: IncrediMail 2001 (2001155.2001155) From: "Dan Heath" References: <006701c3aa48$5931a9a0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> X-FID: FLAVOR00-NONE-0000-0000-000000000000 X-FVER: X-CNT: ; X-Priority: 3 To: "krnet@mylist.net" Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1b3 X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Bob,=0D =0D Yes, it is very easy. First, click on the link below.=0D =0D http://kr-builder.org/ElevatorControl/index.html=0D =0D Scroll to the last picture in the thumbnails. Pretend that the bellcrank= ( I think that is what it is called ) is your stick.=0D =0D Insert, if you don't have them, the turnbuckles somewhere in the line.=20 Adjust accordingly. If you don't have turnbuckles, you need them if only= to keep the proper tension on the cables.=0D =0D Later, =0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20From flykr2s@wi.rr.com Thu Nov 13 17:00:19 2003 Received: from ms-smtp-03.rdc-kc.rr.com ([24.94.166.129]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AKSJv-0001Xe-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:00:19 -0800 Received: from mark (CPE-65-31-90-52.wi.rr.com [65.31.90.52]) by ms-smtp-03.rdc-kc.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id hAE15Pnf026533 for ; Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:05:27 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <004201c3aa4b$71e666e0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" References: <006701c3aa48$5931a9a0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:05:49 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Bob, Where are your cable attach points on the control stick? Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Sauer" I am having a difficult time adjusting the movement of the control stick and the elevator. Getting the down 20 degree is possible, but getting the up 30 degree with less than deflecting the control stick to the point where the top of it is at the rear spar is not possible. Does anyone have suggestions. I used the RR center stick and built the elevator control horn per plans. I am using cables. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:31:32 EST From: FIXERJONES@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Message-ID: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 4 the elevator bell crank hole spread from the center line out to the2 outer holes must be equal distance & match the hole spread in the stick with the same spread & distance,steve jones ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:42:57 -0700 From: "Bob Sauer" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Message-ID: <007101c3aa50$a16a26e0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> References: <006701c3aa48$5931a9a0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> <004201c3aa4b$71e666e0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 5 Hi Mark, They were pre-drilled about equal distance from the stick mounting hole, approx. 3" up and down. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 6:05 PM Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment > Bob, > Where are your cable attach points on the control stick? > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > Wales, WI USA > E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Sauer" > > > I am having a difficult time adjusting the movement of the control > stick and > the elevator. Getting the down 20 degree is possible, but getting the > up 30 > degree with less than deflecting the control stick to the point where > the top of it is at the rear spar is not possible. Does anyone have > suggestions. I used the RR center stick and built the elevator control horn > per plans. I am using cables. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:45:41 -0700 From: "Bob Sauer" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Message-ID: <007801c3aa51$02dfcc40$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> References: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 6 This is the way it is done and I am still having the problem. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: > the elevator bell crank hole spread from the center line out to the2 > outer holes must be equal distance & match the hole spread in the > stick with the same > spread & distance,steve jones > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:46:07 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" To: "krnet@mylist.net" Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Message-ID: <3FB433DF.000014.02276@Computer> References: <007101c3aa50$a16a26e0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 7 Are they the same on the elevator horn? =0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =0D From: KRnet=0D Date: Thursday, November 13, 2003 8:40:24 PM=0D To: KRnet=0D Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment=0D =0D Hi Mark,=0D =0D They were pre-drilled about equal distance from the stick mounting hole,=0D approx. 3" up and down.=0D ----- Original Message -----=0D From: "Mark Jones" =0D To: "KRnet" =0D Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 6:05 PM=0D Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment=0D =0D =0D > Bob,=0D > Where are your cable attach points on the control stick?=0D =0D > Mark Jones (N886MJ)=0D > Wales, WI USA=0D > E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com=0D > Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at=0D > http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html=0D >=0D >=0D > ----- Original Message -----=0D > From: "Bob Sauer" =0D >=0D >=0D > I am having a difficult time adjusting the movement of the control stic= k=0D and=0D > the elevator. Getting the down 20 degree is possible, but getting the > u= p=0D 30=0D > degree with less than deflecting the control stick to the point where > t= he=0D > top of it is at the rear spar is not possible. Does anyone have=0D > suggestions. I used the RR center stick and built the elevator > control=0D horn=0D > per plans. I am using cables.=0D >=0D >=0D >=0D >=0D > _______________________________________________=0D > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html=0D =0D =0D _______________________________________________=0D see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html=0D =2EFrom flykr2s@wi.rr.com Thu Nov 13 17:39:30 2003 Received: from ms-smtp-03.rdc-kc.rr.com ([24.94.166.129]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AKSvq-00040m-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Thu, 13 Nov 2003 17:39:30 -0800 Received: from mark (CPE-65-31-90-52.wi.rr.com [65.31.90.52]) by ms-smtp-03.rdc-kc.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id hAE1ibnf026336 for ; Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:44:39 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <006001c3aa50$ec0286c0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" References: <006701c3aa48$5931a9a0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> <004201c3aa4b$71e666e0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> <007101c3aa50$a16a26e0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:45:00 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: The distance of the cable attach points on the bellcrank at the elevator should be the same distance as those on the control stick. Do you have turnbuckles as Dan mentioned to tighten and adjust the cables? Mark Jones (N886MJ) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Sauer" > Hi Mark, > > They were pre-drilled about equal distance from the stick mounting > hole, approx. 3" up and down. > > > > > Bob, > > Where are your cable attach points on the control stick? > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bob Sauer" > > > > > > I am having a difficult time adjusting the movement of the control > > stick > and > > the elevator. Getting the down 20 degree is possible, but getting > > the up > 30 > > degree with less than deflecting the control stick to the point > > where the > > top of it is at the rear spar is not possible. Does anyone have > > suggestions. I used the RR center stick and built the elevator > > control > horn > > per plans. I am using cables. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:59:17 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Message-ID: <006c01c3aa52$e9ad6140$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> References: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com> <007801c3aa51$02dfcc40$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 8 Bob, Center the stick vertically in its neutral position. Securely fix it in place where it will not move. Next, securely fix the elevator in the neutral position. Then tighten both cables going to the elevator. The result will be equal up and down movement of the elevator. Mark Jones (N886MJ) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Sauer" > This is the way it is done and I am still having the problem. > > > the elevator bell crank hole spread from the center line out to the2 outer > > holes must be equal distance & match the hole spread in the stick > > with the > same > > spread & distance,steve jones > > _______________________________________________ > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 19:02:14 -0700 From: "Bob Sauer" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Message-ID: <009901c3aa53$52d7fcc0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> References: <006701c3aa48$5931a9a0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net><004201c3aa4b$71e666e0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com><007101c3aa50$a16a26e0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> <006001c3aa50$ec0286c0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 9 The spacing on the elevator horn and the controll stick are the same, I have turnbuckles at the controll stick end for adjustment. I can get 20 down and 30 up, but the control stick is so far back in position when achieving the 30 up, that it seems abnormal. Bob Sauer ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 6:45 PM Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment > The distance of the cable attach points on the bellcrank at the > elevator should be the same distance as those on the control stick. Do > you have turnbuckles as Dan mentioned to tighten and adjust the > cables? > > Mark Jones (N886MJ) > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Sauer" > > > Hi Mark, > > > > They were pre-drilled about equal distance from the stick mounting > > hole, approx. 3" up and down. > > > > > > > > Bob, > > > Where are your cable attach points on the control stick? > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Bob Sauer" > > > > > > > > > I am having a difficult time adjusting the movement of the control stick > > and > > > the elevator. Getting the down 20 degree is possible, but getting > > > the up > > 30 > > > degree with less than deflecting the control stick to the point > > > where > the > > > top of it is at the rear spar is not possible. Does anyone have > > > suggestions. I used the RR center stick and built the elevator > > > control > > horn > > > per plans. I am using cables. > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:07:39 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Message-ID: <007801c3aa54$14dfec60$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> References: <006701c3aa48$5931a9a0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> <004201c3aa4b$71e666e0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> <007101c3aa50$a16a26e0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> <006001c3aa50$ec0286c0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> <009901c3aa53$52d7fcc0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 10 Is the only reason you are getting 20 down because the stick hits the forward spar? What is the position of the stick in the 30 up position with you sitting in the plane? Mark Jones (N886MJ) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Sauer" > The spacing on the elevator horn and the controll stick are the same, > I have > turnbuckles at the controll stick end for adjustment. I can get 20 > down and > 30 up, but the control stick is so far back in position when achieving > the 30 up, that it seems abnormal. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:15:09 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" To: "krnet@mylist.net" Subject: KR>Steve Jones Pics Message-ID: <3FB43AAD.000018.02276@Computer> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 11 The Pics of Steve's newly flown KR, are at http://kr-builder org/SteveJones/index.html =0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20From flykr2s@wi.rr.com Thu Nov 13 18:17:13 2003 Received: from ms-smtp-03.rdc-kc.rr.com ([24.94.166.129]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AKTWL-0006W4-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Thu, 13 Nov 2003 18:17:13 -0800 Received: from mark (CPE-65-31-90-52.wi.rr.com [65.31.90.52]) by ms-smtp-03.rdc-kc.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id hAE2MKnf025946 for ; Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:22:22 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <008101c3aa56$311e8920$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> From: "Mark Jones" To: "KRnet" References: <3FB43AAD.000018.02276@Computer> Subject: Re: KR>Steve Jones Pics Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 20:22:45 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Man, has that thing got a Hemi? SWEEEEET Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Heath" The Pics of Steve's newly flown KR, are at http://kr-builderorg/SteveJones/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:33:52 EST From: FIXERJONES@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Steve Jones Pics Message-ID: <145.1c70a074.2ce59910@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 12 In a message dated 11/13/2003 9:15:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, DanRH@AllTel.net writes: > http://kr-builder > org/SteveJones/index.html > thanks dan for the pict exposure,,steve jones :-) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:41:18 -0500 From: "Leigh Plymale" To: "KRnet" Subject: KR>Filling pinholes Message-ID: <011c01c3aa58$c82f68a0$cefeaa44@chvlva.adelphia.net> References: <3FB43AAD.000018.02276@Computer> <008101c3aa56$311e8920$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 13 I was talking to a friend that builds Drag Cars and consequently uses a fair amount of fiber glass. He said to try a product called icing. It is a filler that can be squeeged on and then sanded. It seems to me that with the amount of coats of smooth prime and sanding that many of us report on, this might be a way to fill the dimples first. then use the primer as a final finishing step. I'm not a body man but am looking for a quicker answer, any comments? Leigh Plymale flyboy232@adelphia.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:46:30 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Brian Kraut To: Eric Evezard Cc: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Re: Engine stumble Message-ID: <17939981.1068777991074.JavaMail.root@thecount.psp.pas.earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 14 Copying this to the net as several people have asked me to follow up after I find the problem. In addition to the stumble I was having I also had a problem with the engine getting rough for up to a minute at a time. That had happened twice in about 20 hours of flying. I added an EGT so I could make sure my mixture was correct since it is a lot harder to tell if the VW mixture is correct than it is on any certified plane I have flown. I lucked out and got the EGT probe in the correct cylinder. On the flight after I installed it the engine got rough for about a minute. The EGT dropped all the way so it was apparent that that one cylinder just quit for a minute. I believe the stumble was that one cylinder going out intermittently. I narrowed the problem down to either a sticking valve or an ignition problem. I checked the plug, ignition lead, and the magneto distributor block and they all were fine so I was 99% sure that it was the valve sticking. I ordered a new set of heads drilled for the second spark plug and the secondary ignition system from Great Plains. Whatever the problem was I wanted to be sure it was licked before I flew again. I just finished putting on the new heads today and will be back in the air tomorrow. I removed the valve keepers and springs from the misbehaving head and to my surprise the valves seemed to not be sticking at all although it is very possible that that would change at operating temperature. I am almost certain that the intake valve was sticking though because the one on the bad cylinder had carbon built up on the top of the valve and the intake also had some soot in it. Apparently the intake valve was sticking and exhaust was blowing back through the valve. Eric Evezard wrote: Hi Brian, I am contacting you direct as I have an identical problem.My KR 2 S is waiting for signoff for test flight.I have a 2L longblock type 4 VW with twin Zenith carbs,balanced.However,the moment the engine starts there is a stumble every minute or so and sometimes at shorter intervals.Otherwise it runs beautifully.The engine has run 2 hours to now and was a factory remanufactured engine with a years warranty.I can get 3000 rpm static with more to go on the throttle.I have ramair but have not used it yet,and run through the filter.My system sounds similar to yours.I do not have ram pressure to the float bowl.When the engine oil warms up the oil pressure gauge shows quite clearly a wiggle during the stumble.Firstly I am going to bring it to the attention to the examining engineer.I will let you know what happens.In the mean time I am also asking around.Please let me know if you cure your problem and how. Best Regards, Eric Evezard, South Africa. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:16:50 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Brian Kraut To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>VW spark plug torque Message-ID: <11860358.1068779811080.JavaMail.root@thecount.psp.pas.earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 15 Thanks to those who answered my question on the VW spark plug torque, but no one answered on the small 10mm secondary ignition plugs. Since it is not easy to find, I will pass on the wisdom of the almighty VW guru: 10mm plugs - 15 ft/lbs 14mm plugs - 22 ft/lbs I am going to put all the VW torque values and the standard AN bolt torques and AN flare fitting torques in an Excel sheet since I don't have them all in one place. If anyone cares to put the sheet on their site when I am done with it let me know. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 21:44:20 -0600 From: "Steve and Lori McGee" To: Subject: KR>8" Rim Message-ID: <00c201c3aa61$968fec30$0202a8c0@lori8v5h2xi9m3> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 16 Any one out there using the asuza 8" rim and 16" tire? Not that I plan = on grass landings regularly, but if I had to I was thinking this would = be safer. =20 The 5 x 11 stock KR tire - Would someone let me know how wide the tread = is? The tire listings are different in wicks by maker, and was = wondering for comparison to the 8". =20 Thanks. Safe Flying to ya! Steve McGee Endeavor Wi. Building a KR2S widened. lmcgee@maqs.net=20 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:01:34 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>8" Rim Message-ID: <06a401c3aa64$00c248d0$1202a8c0@basement> References: <00c201c3aa61$968fec30$0202a8c0@lori8v5h2xi9m3> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 17 Steve McGee wrote: > The 5 x 11 stock KR tire - Would someone let me know how wide the tread is? The tire listings are different in wicks by maker, and was wondering for comparison to the 8". The tread itself is something like 3.6" wide, and the widest part of the tire is about 4.13". This is for the 11 x 4.00 - 5 Lamb tire, which I believe is made by Cheng Shin now, but retains the LAMB logo. I ordered the Cheng Shin, and got the Lamb (because the Lamb was no longer in the catalog). Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 00:00:01 -0600 From: Steven Eberhart To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Filling pinholes Message-ID: <3FB46F61.3000708@newtech.com> References: <3FB43AAD.000018.02276@Computer> <008101c3aa56$311e8920$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> <011c01c3aa58$c82f68a0$cefeaa44@chvlva.adelphia.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 18 Hi Leigh, Two things come to mind. First, U.S. Chemical & Plastics "Icing" is a polyester product. I don't like to mix polyester products with epoxy products on a project. Other than preferring not to do it one isn't recommended for use over the other. I can never remember which way it goes - polyester over epoxy or epoxy over polyester. Doesn't matter to me too much as I never mix the two. I have found that most of the polyester products will shrink somewhat over time and you will be seeing the weave of the cloth showing through. I only used epoxy finishing products on the wind tunnel wings for the new KR airfoils and the finish today is still just as good as the day they went in the wind tunnel. Second, Poly Fiber has changed the directions they print on the Smooth Prime can. Originally they recommended thinning the Smooth Prime and then rolling six coats on the fiberglass surface and waiting to sand until the last coat was dry. The last gallon of Smooth Prime I bought, for use on all of the fiberglass parts of a Van's RV-8 I am finishing up the fiberglass work on and painting, recommends rolling on the six coats full strength and only thinning if you are going to spray it. Thinning the Smooth Prime and rolling on the six coats has always taken care of the pin holes on all of the projects I have used it on. Rolling on full strength seems to give a rougher finish and uses more material than necessary IMHO. I sand just about all of the Smooth Prime off and only rely on it for filling the pin holes. I use an epoxy primer over the Smooth Prime. I am rapidly becoming an advocate of PPG's Concept acrylic urethane finishing system. All of the fiberglass parts are first filled with Poly Fiber Super Fill till you have a good smooth finish. Then six coats of thinned Smooth Prime are rolled on. THis is sanded and PPG DPLF epoxy primer is sprayed on. I generally let this cure and wet sand it before spraying on the PPG Concept for the final finish. THis works very well for me. On the RV-8 I am just finishing up the paint job on took five quarts of DPLF primer and six quarts of 2001 Corvette yellow. A KR should use a lot less. Steve Eberhart Leigh Plymale wrote: > I was talking to a friend that builds Drag Cars and consequently uses a fair > amount of fiber glass. He said to try a product called icing. It is a filler > that can be squeeged on and then sanded. It seems to me that with the amount > of coats of smooth prime and sanding that many of us report on, this might > be a way to fill the dimples first. then use the primer as a final finishing > step. I'm not a body man but am looking for a quicker answer, any comments? > > Leigh Plymale > flyboy232@adelphia.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 21:56:47 +1100 From: "Phil Matheson" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Message-ID: <005201c3aa9e$11ff3b00$fa97dccb@Office> References: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 19 Has anyone used Aileron Push Pull Cables, ( AS they use in the Jabiru )instead of Normal Cables or Push rods? I'm moving my bell cranks infront of the Rear spar so I can use a Larger flap. and I think it will be difficult use my currant push rod system, and push through the WAF gap. A go cable I think would be great, same as a model aircraft, so to speak. Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au VH-PKR ( reserved) 61 3 58833588 See our VW Engines and Home built web page at http://www.vw-engines.com/ www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 11:10:20 +0000 From: "alphabravo pilot" To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Hi every body Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 20 Some gentels men were asking about my contact number and here is : 00971505829905 we are still working with the site and probably its going to be ready after few days best regards AL MARZUOQI _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 06:31:03 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" To: "krnet@mylist.net" Subject: Re: KR>Steve Jones Pics Message-ID: <3FB4BCF7.00001E.02276@Computer> References: <008101c3aa56$311e8920$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 21 Steve,=0D =0D How well does your venturi work?=0D =0D The link should read like this:=0D =0D http://kr-builder.org/SteveJones/index.html=0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20From lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com Fri Nov 14 04:34:57 2003 Received: from ms-smtp-04-smtplb.tampabay.rr.com ([65.32.5.134] helo=ms-smtp-04.tampabay.rr.com) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1)id 1AKdA9-000EOJ-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Fri, 14 Nov 2003 04:34:57 -0800 Received: from your1rnfg39627 (6535219hfc105.tampabay.rr.com [65.35.219.105]) by ms-smtp-04.tampabay.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id hAECe7h5029885 for ; Fri, 14 Nov 2003 07:40:07 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <00d101c3aaac$6d465ad0$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> From: "Les Criscillo" To: "KRnet" References: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com> <005201c3aa9e$11ff3b00$fa97dccb@Office> Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 07:40:03 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1b3 X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Let me know what you find out..I've been looking into several options. = I'm thinking about having a set of transmission cables made custom = length by B+M with fittings on both ends. I saw a similar set up on an = all glass sea plane at the Sun and Fun a couple of years ago, and the = controls were smooth and free. I'll let you know if I get any additional = info. Les Criscillo Tampa, FL Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Phil Matheson=20 To: KRnet=20 Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 05:56 Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Has anyone used Aileron Push Pull Cables, ( AS they use in the Jabiru )instead of Normal Cables or Push rods? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 05:05:07 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Cable To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Steve Jones Pics Message-ID: <20031114130507.38802.qmail@web40802.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <145.1c70a074.2ce59910@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 22 Man is that a nice airplane --- FIXERJONES@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 11/13/2003 9:15:30 PM Eastern > Standard Time, > DanRH@AllTel.net writes: > > > > http://kr-builder > > org/SteveJones/index.html > > > > thanks dan for the pict exposure,,steve jones :-) > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ===== Scott Cable KR-2S # 735 Wright City, MO s2cable1@yahoo.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 219, Issue 1 *************************************