From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net on behalf of krnet-request@mylist.net Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 9:55 AM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 220, Issue 1 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Aileron Control (Phil Matheson) 2. Re: Oggetto: RR Aluminum Kit for KR-2S – what’s in it? (VIRGIL N SALISBURY) 3. Re: Filling pinholes (Brian Kraut) 4. Re: Filling pinholes (Dan Heath) 5. Re: Belly Board (larry severson) 6. Re: secondary ignition system (Brian Kraut) 7. Re: Steve Jones Pics 8. Re: Steve Jones Pics 9. Re: Belly Board (Les Criscillo) 10. 8" Azusa rim (Tracy & Carol O'Brien) 11. Re: 8" Azusa rim (Steve and Lori McGee) 12. Re: Aileron Control (David Mullins) 13. Re: Aileron Control (Les Criscillo) 14. Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment (larry flesner) 15. Hi (alphabravo pilot) 16. Re: Aileron Control (David Mullins) 17. Re: Aileron Control (Les Criscillo) 18. Re: Filling pinholes (Kenneth L Wiltrout) 19. RE: type IV conversion manual dene colllet (Ron Freiberger) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 07:51:04 +1100 From: "Phil Matheson" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Message-ID: <000c01c3aaf1$17621510$fb96dccb@Office> References: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com><005201c3aa9e$11ff3b00$fa97dccb@Office> <00d101c3aaac$6d465ad0$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 1 Let me know what you find out..I've been looking into several options. I'm thinking about having a set of transmission cables made custom length by B+M with fittings on both ends -------------------------------- Les Thank you very much. The Jabiru and Cobra, in Australua both use them. http://www.tomair.com.au/cobra_home_page_001.htm http://www.jabiru.net.au/ Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au VH-PKR ( reserved) 61 3 58833588 See our VW Engines and Home built web page at http://www.vw-engines.com/ www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:02:53 -0500 From: VIRGIL N SALISBURY To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Oggetto: RR Aluminum Kit for KR-2S – what’s in it? Message-ID: <20031114.170713.3084.2.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 2 Check with Wicks, They send through a fellow in Europe via his container. Much cheaper, Virg On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 15:22:50 +0100 (CET) =?iso-8859-1?q?Paolo=20Cavazzuti?= writes: > Hi all, > I’d like to know what’s in the RR Aluminum kit > exactly, today? > Is there the effectively needed material to build > ALL the aluminum stuff (ailerons bellcranck, > hinges, firewalls reinforcements and flaps too)? > Here in Europe Al 6061-T6 is difficult to obtain > and I’m considering to use Al 6082-T6 as a > substitute; there are a lot shipping fees, taxes > and custom fees to pay to bring materials from > USA, so it could be convenient if there’s all the > material at only one time! If not, it should be > better to change all in 6082 and have the > possibility to purchase it here in Italy any time > I need it. > > Sorry if I’m asking about aluminum kit again, but > last time has been in 1998 (see Mark Langford’s > question in the archives)! ;) > > Regards, > Paolo Cavazzuti > Modena, Italy > e-mail: sapiddomannaro@yahoo.it > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > Yahoo! Mail: 6MB di spazio gratuito, 30MB per i tuoi allegati, > l'antivirus, il filtro Anti-spam > http://it.yahoo.com/mail_it/foot/?http://it.mail.yahoo.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL www.lubedealer.com/salisbury Miami ,Fl ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:43:43 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Brian Kraut To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Filling pinholes Message-ID: <1082409.1068849825471.JavaMail.root@skeeter.psp.pas.earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 3 I found that the smooth prime gets bubbles in it and you need to sand almost all of it off to get the pits out of the surface where the bubbles were. Sanding with 180 paper before the last coat then rolling on one last thinned coat seemed to do a great job of filling in the bubble craters for me. You don't need to sand a lot before the last coat, just enough to trim the tops off of the rough surface and pop all the dried bubbles. It leaves a lot more of the primer on the surface and takes a lot less sanding. -----Original Message----- From: Steven Eberhart Sent: Nov 14, 2003 1:00 AM To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Filling pinholes Hi Leigh, Two things come to mind. First, U.S. Chemical & Plastics "Icing" is a polyester product. I don't like to mix polyester products with epoxy products on a project. Other than preferring not to do it one isn't recommended for use over the other. I can never remember which way it goes - polyester over epoxy or epoxy over polyester. Doesn't matter to me too much as I never mix the two. I have found that most of the polyester products will shrink somewhat over time and you will be seeing the weave of the cloth showing through. I only used epoxy finishing products on the wind tunnel wings for the new KR airfoils and the finish today is still just as good as the day they went in the wind tunnel. Second, Poly Fiber has changed the directions they print on the Smooth Prime can. Originally they recommended thinning the Smooth Prime and then rolling six coats on the fiberglass surface and waiting to sand until the last coat was dry. The last gallon of Smooth Prime I bought, for use on all of the fiberglass parts of a Van's RV-8 I am finishing up the fiberglass work on and painting, recommends rolling on the six coats full strength and only thinning if you are going to spray it. Thinning the Smooth Prime and rolling on the six coats has always taken care of the pin holes on all of the projects I have used it on. Rolling on full strength seems to give a rougher finish and uses more material than necessary IMHO. I sand just about all of the Smooth Prime off and only rely on it for filling the pin holes. I use an epoxy primer over the Smooth Prime. I am rapidly becoming an advocate of PPG's Concept acrylic urethane finishing system. All of the fiberglass parts are first filled with Poly Fiber Super Fill till you have a good smooth finish. Then six coats of thinned Smooth Prime are rolled on. THis is sanded and PPG DPLF epoxy primer is sprayed on. I generally let this cure and wet sand it before spraying on the PPG Concept for the final finish. THis works very well for me. On the RV-8 I am just finishing up the paint job on took five quarts of DPLF primer and six quarts of 2001 Corvette yellow. A KR should use a lot less. Steve Eberhart Leigh Plymale wrote: > I was talking to a friend that builds Drag Cars and consequently uses > a fair amount of fiber glass. He said to try a product called icing. > It is a filler that can be squeeged on and then sanded. It seems to me > that with the amount of coats of smooth prime and sanding that many of > us report on, this might be a way to fill the dimples first. then use > the primer as a final finishing step. I'm not a body man but am > looking for a quicker answer, any comments? > > Leigh Plymale > flyboy232@adelphia.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:49:52 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" To: "krnet@mylist.net" Subject: Re: KR>Filling pinholes Message-ID: <3FB55C10.000009.00956@Computer> References: <1082409.1068849825471.JavaMail.root@skeeter.psp.pas.earthlink.net> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 4 I found the same thing about smooth prime. The first time I used it, I h= ad to remove mountains. Then I started thinning it. It doesn't cover as we= ll thinned, but it does a much better job of filling pin holes and does leav= e as many mountains to sand off. I then used a grey filler primer and stil= l had to get rid of some pin holes with spot putty.=0D =0D I sanded the mountains off with 100 grit, then went to 220. My final san= d on the grey primer was 400 grit. The paint says that it prefers that you don't sand to more than 230 grit. Well too bad for my paint.=0D =0D One thing I really like about using the smooth prime and then the grey primer, is, that you know when to stop sanding the grey primer. See whit= e and stop. =0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =0D -------Original Message-------=0D =20From DanRH@alltel.net Fri Nov 14 14:45:56 2003 Received: from mta02.alltel.net ([166.102.165.144] helo=mta02-srv.alltel.net) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AKmhQ-000M7K-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Fri, 14 Nov 2003 14:45:56 -0800 Received: from Computer ([151.213.95.136]) by mta02-srv.alltel.net with SMTP id <20031114225103.NFNZ527.mta02-srv.alltel.net@Computer> for ; Fri, 14 Nov 2003 16:51:03 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Message-Id: <3FB55C61.00000D.00956@Computer> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:51:13 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) X-Mailer: IncrediMail 2001 (2001155.2001155) From: "Dan Heath" X-FID: FLAVOR00-NONE-0000-0000-000000000000 X-FVER: 3.0 X-CNT: ; X-Priority: 3 To: "krnet@mylist.net" Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1b3 Subject: KR>personal e-mail address ? X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Does anyone know why some personal email addresses show up in the to line when you reply, and some don't? =0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20From c.midkiff@verizon.net Fri Nov 14 15:13:03 2003 Received: from out005pub.verizon.net ([206.46.170.143] helo=out005.verizon.net) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1)id 1AKn7Z-000NmG-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Fri, 14 Nov 2003 15:13:00 -0800 Received: from charlesmidkiff ([4.41.52.77]) by out005.verizon.net (InterMail vM.5.01.05.33 201-253-122-126-133-20030313) with ESMTP id <20031114231756.XKWD1313.out005.verizon.net@charlesmidkiff> for ; Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:17:56 -0600 Message-ID: <018901c3ab05$88f5c460$4d342904@charlesmidkiff> From: "Charles Buddy & Cheryl Midkiff" To: "KRnet" References: <1082409.1068849825471.JavaMail.root@skeeter.psp.pas.earthlink.net> <3FB55C10.000009.00956@Computer> Subject: Re: KR>Filling pinholes Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 15:17:55 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 X-Authentication-Info: Submitted using SMTP AUTH at out005.verizon.net from [4.41.52.77] at Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:17:55 -0600 X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: To throw another product out there to see if anyone has experience using it on their project, I'll mention a product that they use and recommend here at a large paint shop located on Paine Field / Boeing Field in Everett Washington. This shop paints the majority of the business and corporate airplanes in the area and also do a great number of the homebuilts in our area. Our EAA Chapter 84 did a Saturday visit not long ago there. The product they recommended as a sanding surfacer is Super Koropon by PRC Desoto. They said they used this on all the composite planes they prepared to paint. I think it comes from the same supplier here in Woodinville Washington that supplies Pro Seal and PPG applications. Bud Midkiff Lynnwood, WA email: c.midkiff@verizon.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Heath" To: Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 2:49 PM Subject: Re: KR>Filling pinholes I found the same thing about smooth prime. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 15:46:08 -0800 From: larry severson To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Belly Board Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20031113154437.0132e958@pop-server.socal.rr.com> In-Reply-To: <00ae01c3a9e1$b7591430$5e0ca58c@tbe.com> References: <000f01c3a992$be8a9b60$47da1818@computer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 5 Searching on key word "Belly Board" didn't work for me. Obviously I am doing something wrong. >The archive, by the way, is located at >http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp , and is accessible from the >"krnet instructions" that are listed at the bottom of each message that >goes out on KRnet. Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 18:02:34 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Brian Kraut To: Dan Heath Cc: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Re: secondary ignition system Message-ID: <4605346.1068850954890.JavaMail.root@skeeter.psp.pas.earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 6 Glad you asked. I had a few minor issues that needed a little cl= arification. I am copying this to the net because I am sure that some= one lese will have the same problems. I was also concerned with the screw going into the O-ring and asked St= eve also. He assured me also that that is the correct way to do it so= I did. I havn't seen any oil leaking out under the distributor yet s= o I guess it works fine like that. I don't think that the oil is real= ly under pressure there anyway. I had my oil fill plug there and it w= as always easy to pull out, but it never came out when the engine was runni= ng. I think you are mostly getting splashed oil from the drive gear t= here to lube the distributor. I also asked if my O-ring was missing b= ecause it didn't come with the kit. You are supposed to use the distr= ibutor O-ring that comes with any engine gasket kit. Now I suppose th= at there is no reason why you couldn't put the screw in a little higher so = it is above the O-ring, but I am sure Steve thought about it a lot onlger t= han I did so there is a reason for it. It does make the timing adjust= ment a little easier because you can tighten down a little on that one scre= w and then have the distributor give some resistance to turning while you t= ime the engine. Also keeps the screw from putting a flat spot on the = distributor housing. The other thing to watch out for is the alignment of the distributor h= ousing when it is put in. The instructions tell you how to insert the= drive gear so that the distributor is aligned when it is put in, but don't= really tell you why. I assumed it was just to get the cable coming o= ut of the distributor housing in the right direction. I aligned the g= ear so that the cable would come out running towards the back of the engine= then realized after I dropped in the gear that there is an oil hole in the= housing that needs to line up with the hole in the engine case inside the = housing. You have about a 30 degree window to get the holes aligned s= ince the hole in the engine case is a pretty long oval. I would also advise taking off the cover plate that is right next to t= he distributor drive hole and looking in it with a flashlight when you put = in the drive gear so you can make sure the drive gear meshes correctly with= the gear on the cam. You can turn the drive gear or the prop a littl= e to make sure they mesh correctly as you push in the drive gear. -----Original Message----- From: Dan Heath Sent: Nov 14, 2003 6:25 AM To: engalt@earthlink.net Subj= ect: secondary ignition system Brian, We have the secondary ignition from Steve. We have not yet insta= lled it, with the exception of the heads and plugs. Did you have any problems installing it per the instructions? My= first concern was drilling a hole in the case, and then putting a screw in= to the O ring. I have discussed this with Steve and he assures me tha= t there has never been a problem with it. However, it still gives me = concern. Please advise on any issues you had with the installation and how you = overcame them. We will be installing ours early next year or maybe ev= en sometime next month. N64KR Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC<= /STRONG> [1]DanRH@KR-Builder.org See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering See our KR at [2]http://KR-Builder.org= - Click on the pic See our EAA Chapter 242 at [3]http://EAA24= 2.org References 1. 3D"mailto:DanRH@KR-Builder.org" 2. 3D"http://kr-builder.org/" 3. 3D"http://eaa242.org/" ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 18:40:11 EST From: FIXERJONES@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Steve Jones Pics Message-ID: <14f.26924b96.2ce6c1db@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 7 it works way too good,,it pulls 7 to 9 inches,,too much,,got to install a regulator, i regulate it with vicegrips for now, it's a super venturi,,steve jones ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 18:40:55 EST From: FIXERJONES@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Steve Jones Pics Message-ID: <6c.344d56f8.2ce6c207@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 8 thanks for the kind words,steve jones ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 18:59:05 -0500 From: "Les Criscillo" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Belly Board Message-ID: <015001c3ab0b$49342550$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> References: <000f01c3a992$be8a9b60$47da1818@computer> <5.2.1.1.0.20031113154437.0132e958@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 9 Worked for me Larry...I spent the better part of 5 hours reading = postings about Belly boards...good luck! Les Criscillo Tampa, FL Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: larry severson=20 To: KRnet=20 Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 18:46 Subject: Re: KR>Belly Board Searching on key word "Belly Board" didn't work for me. Obviously I am = doing something wrong. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 20:18:09 -0800 From: Tracy & Carol O'Brien To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>8" Azusa rim Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.1.20031114200940.01d2c410@mail.localaccess.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 10 Netters: A question came up about using the 8" Azusa cast aluminum rims: These rims are used quite a bit on light replica warbirds, powered parachutes and trikes. The castings are very thin in the area of the spokes and I would not recommend using these wheels on heavy or high powered KR's. Regards, Tracy O'Brien ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:44:31 -0600 From: "Steve and Lori McGee" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>8" Azusa rim Message-ID: <005201c3ab33$28f6f1a0$0202a8c0@lori8v5h2xi9m3> References: <5.2.1.1.1.20031114200940.01d2c410@mail.localaccess.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 11 Ok - thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tracy & Carol O'Brien" To: Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 10:18 PM Subject: KR>8" Azusa rim > Netters: > > A question came up about using the 8" Azusa cast aluminum rims: These > rims are used quite a bit on light replica warbirds, powered > parachutes and trikes. The castings are very thin in the area of the > spokes and I would not recommend using these wheels on heavy or high > powered KR's. > > Regards, > > Tracy O'Brien > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 00:59:46 -0500 From: David Mullins To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Message-ID: <3FB5C0D2.5010103@comcast.net> In-Reply-To: <00d101c3aaac$6d465ad0$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> References: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com> <005201c3aa9e$11ff3b00$fa97dccb@Office> <00d101c3aaac$6d465ad0$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 12 Les, Here is the link to the site were I puchased my push-pull cables. http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/store/products/category.asp?categoryID=61805 The 33C cables are 10-32 threads and the 43C cables are 1/4-28 Dave Mullins Nashua, New Hampshire Les Criscillo wrote: >Let me know what you find out..I've been looking into several options. >I'm thinking about having a set of transmission cables made custom >length by B+M with fittings on both ends. I saw a similar set up on an >all glass sea plane at the Sun and Fun a couple of years ago, and the >controls were smooth and free. I'll let you know if I get any >additional info. > >Les Criscillo >Tampa, FL > >Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com >LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Phil Matheson > To: KRnet > Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 05:56 > Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control > > > Has anyone used Aileron Push Pull Cables, ( AS they use in the > Jabiru )instead of Normal Cables or Push rods? > >_______________________________________________ >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 08:25:00 -0500 From: "Les Criscillo" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Message-ID: <01d801c3ab7b$dee3e430$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> References: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com> <005201c3aa9e$11ff3b00$fa97dccb@Office> <00d101c3aaac$6d465ad0$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> <3FB5C0D2.5010103@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 13 Thanks David, I've looked over the site. The shortest cable they seem = to have is an 8 foot one. I'll need something shorter than that I think = ...but at least it's a place to start! Thanks again! Les Criscillo Tampa, FL Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: David Mullins=20 To: KRnet=20 Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 00:59 Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Les, Here is the link to the site were I puchased my push-pull cables. = http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/store/products/category.asp?categoryID=3D= 61805 The 33C cables are 10-32 threads and the 43C cables are 1/4-28 Dave Mullins Nashua, New Hampshire Les Criscillo wrote: >Let me know what you find out..I've been looking into several = options. I'm thinking about having a set of transmission cables made = custom length by B+M with fittings on both ends. I saw a similar set up = on an all glass sea plane at the Sun and Fun a couple of years ago, and = the controls were smooth and free. I'll let you know if I get any = additional info. > >Les Criscillo >Tampa, FL > >Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com >LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com > ----- Original Message -----=20 > From: Phil Matheson=20 > To: KRnet=20 > Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 05:56 > Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control > > > Has anyone used Aileron Push Pull Cables, ( AS they use in the > Jabiru )instead of Normal Cables or Push rods? > >_______________________________________________ >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > =20 > _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.htmlFrom flesner@midwest.net Sat Nov 15 05:30:54 2003 Received: from capitol.mail.pas.earthlink.net ([207.217.120.180]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AL0Vq-000GjE-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sat, 15 Nov 2003 05:30:54 -0800 Received: from dsc01-cir-oh-207-95-2-193.rasserver.net ([207.95.2.193] helo=larry-flesner) by capitol.mail.pas.earthlink.net with smtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 1AL0av-0004Nc-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sat, 15 Nov 2003 05:36:09 -0800 Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20031115072939.00854180@pop.midwest.net> X-Sender: flesner@pop.midwest.net (Unverified) X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.6 (32) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 07:29:39 -0600 To: KRnet From: larry flesner In-Reply-To: <1082409.1068849825471.JavaMail.root@skeeter.psp.pas.earthl ink.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: KR>Smooth Prime/bubbles X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: >I found that the smooth prime gets bubbles in it and you need to sand almost all of it off to get the pits out of the surface where the bubbles were. Brian +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I did not have that problem with the Smooth Prime and I'm going to guess it's a problem with handling and not the "rolling on" of the product. My instructions from Smooth Prime said to have the product mixed on a shaker if it has set for an extended period and let the bubbles clear before using. There is an easier way. I used a 1/4" drill motor with a paint mixer that has one of those little propeller blades on the end. Keep the propeller end low in the can and it does an excellent job of mixing without creating bubbles. If you pour the primer slowly into the roller pan it doesn't create bubbles there and I never got bubbles when rolling it on. Are you using the really fine foam rolls to do the rolling ? I just don't recall getting any bubbles on the surface when using the product thinned or un-thinned. Smooth Prime has a hugh amount of solids and needs to be mixed VERY well after setting for any period of time. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 07:30:34 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>Elevator/Control Stick Adjustment Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20031115073034.00853dc0@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <009901c3aa53$52d7fcc0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> References: <006701c3aa48$5931a9a0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> <004201c3aa4b$71e666e0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> <007101c3aa50$a16a26e0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> <006001c3aa50$ec0286c0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 14 >The spacing on the elevator horn and the controll stick are the same, I >have turnbuckles at the controll stick end for adjustment. I can get >20 down and 30 up, but the control stick is so far back in position >when achieving the 30 up, that it seems abnormal. Bob Sauer +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ It seems to me that the entire system has a 1:1 mechanical advantage so you will have to move the stick 30 degrees each way (forward and back) of center to get a 30 degree deflection of the elevator. I used the stick hitting the spar as the forward limit on my stick travel and adjusted the elevator cable to the down limit at that position. I use a cut-out in my fiberglass seat as the stick back limiter at the max up position. My hard stops for the ailerons on on the stick assembly. 30 degrees up/down under normal flight conditions will be "abnormal". Under most flying conditions you won't move the control stick more then an inch off center except on the ground before you get to flying speed. The system must be capable of reaching the deflection limits called for in the plans for any recovery maneuvers at low airspeeds in flight. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 14:39:04 +0000 From: "alphabravo pilot" To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Hi Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 15 Hi friends ...does anybody know which airofoil section that the top vew of the fuselag is clossed to??? best regards _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 10:12:01 -0500 From: David Mullins To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Message-ID: <3FB64241.6010105@comcast.net> In-Reply-To: <01d801c3ab7b$dee3e430$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> References: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com> <005201c3aa9e$11ff3b00$fa97dccb@Office> <00d101c3aaac$6d465ad0$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> <3FB5C0D2.5010103@comcast.net> <01d801c3ab7b$dee3e430$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 16 Les, I purchased two 4' B&M shifter cables when I started to redo my aileron controls using a torque tube to get behind the aft spar. I went with the 8' cables because now they go from the left stick through a 180º turn under the seat, under the aft spar, and out the left stub wing to a bellcrank. No torque tube needed now. When I get the brackets mounted to the dual stick assembly I will get a picture to you. Dave Mullins Nashua, New Hampshire http://n323xl.iwarp.com Les Criscillo wrote: >Thanks David, I've looked over the site. The shortest cable they seem >to have is an 8 foot one. I'll need something shorter than that I think >...but at least it's a place to start! Thanks again! > >Les Criscillo >Tampa, FL > >Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com >LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: David Mullins > To: KRnet > Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 00:59 > Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control > > > Les, > > Here is the link to the site were I puchased my push-pull cables. > > > http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/store/products/category.asp?categoryI > D=61805 > > The 33C cables are 10-32 threads and the 43C cables are 1/4-28 > > Dave Mullins > Nashua, New Hampshire > > Les Criscillo wrote: > > >Let me know what you find out..I've been looking into several > options. I'm thinking about having a set of transmission cables made > custom length by B+M with fittings on both ends. I saw a similar set > up on an all glass sea plane at the Sun and Fun a couple of years ago, > and the controls were smooth and free. I'll let you know if I get any > additional info. > >Les Criscillo >Tampa, FL > > >Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com >LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com > ----- > Original Message ----- > From: Phil Matheson > > To: KRnet > > Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 05:56 > > Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control > > > > > > Has anyone used Aileron Push Pull Cables, ( AS they use in the > > Jabiru )instead of Normal Cables or Push rods? > > > >_______________________________________________ > >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at >http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html_______________________________________________ >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 10:11:05 -0500 From: "Les Criscillo" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Message-ID: <002301c3ab8a$b0c82890$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> References: <74.35455cd0.2ce58a74@aol.com> <005201c3aa9e$11ff3b00$fa97dccb@Office> <00d101c3aaac$6d465ad0$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> <3FB5C0D2.5010103@comcast.net> <01d801c3ab7b$dee3e430$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> <3FB64241.6010105@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 17 Want to sell me the 4 foot cables?=20 Les Criscillo Tampa, FL Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: David Mullins=20 To: KRnet=20 Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 10:12 Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control Les, I purchased two 4' B&M shifter cables when I started to redo my = aileron controls using a torque tube to get behind the aft spar. I went with = the 8' cables because now they go from the left stick through a 180=BA turn = under=20 the seat, under the aft spar, and out the left stub wing to a bellcrank. No = torque=20 tube needed now. When I get the brackets mounted to the dual stick assembly = I=20 will get a picture to you. Dave Mullins Nashua, New Hampshire http://n323xl.iwarp.com Les Criscillo wrote: >Thanks David, I've looked over the site. The shortest cable they = seem to have is an 8 foot one. I'll need something shorter than that I = think ...but at least it's a place to start! Thanks again! > >Les Criscillo >Tampa, FL > >Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com >LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com > ----- Original Message -----=20 > From: David Mullins=20 > To: KRnet=20 > Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2003 00:59 > Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control > > > Les, > > Here is the link to the site were I puchased my push-pull cables. > > = http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/store/products/category.asp?categoryID=3D= 61805 > > The 33C cables are 10-32 threads and the 43C cables are 1/4-28 > > Dave Mullins > Nashua, New Hampshire > > Les Criscillo wrote: > > >Let me know what you find out..I've been looking into several = options. I'm thinking about having a set of transmission cables made = custom length by B+M with fittings on both ends. I saw a similar set up = on an all glass sea plane at the Sun and Fun a couple of years ago, and = the controls were smooth and free. I'll let you know if I get any = additional info. > > > >Les Criscillo > >Tampa, FL > > > >Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com > >LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.com > > ----- Original Message -----=20 > > From: Phil Matheson=20 > > To: KRnet=20 > > Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 05:56 > > Subject: Re: KR>Aileron Control > > > > > > Has anyone used Aileron Push Pull Cables, ( AS they use in the > > Jabiru )instead of Normal Cables or Push rods? > > > >_______________________________________________ > >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > > > =20 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at = http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html___________________________________= ____________ >see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > =20 > _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.htmlFrom dene.collett@telkomsa.net Sat Nov 15 07:38:37 2003 Received: from polonium.telkomsa.net ([196.25.69.84] helo=mail.telkomsa.net) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1AL2VQ-000NGN-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sat, 15 Nov 2003 07:38:37 -0800 Received: (qmail 9911 invoked by uid 104); 15 Nov 2003 15:38:33 -0000 Received: from dene.collett@telkomsa.net by polonium.telkomsa.net by uid 101 with qmail-scanner-1.16 (clamscan: 20030317. Clear:. Processed in 0.805146 secs); 15 Nov 2003 15:38:33 -0000 X-Qmail-Scanner-Mail-From: dene.collett@telkomsa.net via polonium.telkomsa.net X-Qmail-Scanner: 1.16 (Clear:. Processed in 0.805146 secs) Received: from esdw-ip-nas-1-p386.telkom-ipnet.co.za (HELO telkomsa127179) ([155.239.153.130])(envelope-sender ) by telkomsa.net (qmail-ldap-1.03) with SMTP for ; 15 Nov 2003 15:38:32 -0000 X-vSMTP: telkomsa.net Message-ID: <000201c3ab8f$6f393900$8299ef9b@telkomsa127179> From: "Dene Collett \(SA\)" To: "krnet" Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 17:41:29 +0200 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 Subject: KR>type IV conversion manual X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Hi guys/girls I have come across a conversion manual for the type IV VW motor and need some help identifying where it comes from or who wrote it. The cover page just says "VW TYPE IV. PORSCHE 914 CONVERSION" at the top of the page.It deals with the full conversion to flight motor with the use of a Chrysler 135HP outboard motor flywheel that has been machined thinner. Another unique thing about it is the intake plenum chambers which are machined from solid 1 7/8" solid square aluminuim bar stock. Another interesting thing is that the prop is driven from the pully end as "normal" but the original pully drive hub is still used with the original taper on crank untouched. A 4130 flange is welded to this pully drive hub that bolts to a prop hub extension of about 3".There is also mention of a three blade ground adjustible prop with an injection moulded fibreglass hub produced by Rand Robinson. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Dene Collett South Africa mailto: dene.collett@telkomsa.net ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 12:02:13 -0500 From: Kenneth L Wiltrout To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Filling pinholes Message-ID: <20031115.120213.2372.1.klw1953@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 18 I tried many things w/smooth prime and found that if you used a squeegy first it seemed to fill better on the first pass. The stuff is good but not as good as advertised. On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:49:52 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) "Dan Heath" writes: > I found the same thing about smooth prime. The first time I used it, > I had > to remove mountains. Then I started thinning it. It doesn't cover > as well > thinned, but it does a much better job of filling pin holes and does > leave > as many mountains to sand off. I then used a grey filler primer and > still > had to get rid of some pin holes with spot putty. > > I sanded the mountains off with 100 grit, then went to 220. My > final sand > on the grey primer was 400 grit. The paint says that it prefers > that you > don't sand to more than 230 grit. Well too bad for my paint. > > One thing I really like about using the smooth prime and then the > grey > primer, is, that you know when to stop sanding the grey primer. See > white > and stop. > > N64KR > > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC > > DanRH@KR-Builder.org > > See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering > > See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic > See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org > > -------Original Message------- > _______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html > > ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 12:56:39 -0500 From: "Ron Freiberger" To: "KRnet" Subject: RE: KR>type IV conversion manual dene colllet Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <000201c3ab8f$6f393900$8299ef9b@telkomsa127179> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 19 My help would be to tell you to start running away from that welded flange. For sure, don't stand in front of it. Ron Freiberger mailto: rfreiberger@swfla.rr.com Hi guys/girls I have come across a conversion manual for the type IV VW motor and need some help identifying where it comes from or who wrote it. The cover page just says "VW TYPE IV. PORSCHE 914 CONVERSION". A 4130 flange is welded to this pully drive hub that bolts to a prop hub extension of about 3".There is also mention of a three blade ground adjustible prop with an injection moulded fibreglass hub produced by Rand Robinson. ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 220, Issue 1 *************************************