From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net on behalf of krnet-request@mylist.net Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 12:00 PM To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 222, Issue 1 Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: type IV conversion manual dene colllet (Dene Collett (SA)) 2. Bad Windshield News (Dan Heath) 3. RE: rain and the kr (Kogelmann Christian - OS ETA) 4. Carb ? (Steve and Lori McGee) 5. RE: Bad Windshield News (Ron Freiberger) 6. use a puddy squigy (Ron Freiberger) 7. Re: Carb & Prop (Bob Sauer) 8. Re: type IV conversion manual dene colllet (Mark Langford) 9. Using new AS5046 Wing Templates on Stock KR2 (Les Criscillo) 10. Bubbles 11. Re: Belts (Ray Fuenzalida) 12. Re: Re: secondary ignition system (VIRGIL N SALISBURY) 13. Bubbles (Larry A Capps) 14. george@hsweb.net (Dan Heath) 15. Re: Bad Windshield News (Dana Overall) 16. Re: type IV conversion manual dene colllet (Phil Matheson) 17. Re: use a puddy squigy (roger mitchell) 18. Oil Pres.Sender (Eric Evezard) 19. RE: use a puddy squigy (Ron Freiberger) 20. Re: Using new AS5046 Wing Templates on Stock KR2 (Mark Langford) 21. Re: Using new AS5046 Wing Templates on Stock KR2 (Les Criscillo) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:36:51 +0200 From: "Dene Collett \(SA\)" To: , "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>type IV conversion manual dene colllet Message-ID: <000b01c3ac81$7e1d1660$a598ef9b@telkomsa127179> References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 1 > My help would be to tell you to start running away from that welded flange. > For sure, don't stand in front of it. > > Ron Freiberger > mailto: rfreiberger@swfla.rr.com Hi Ron and others Firstly, thanks to those of you that responded to my query about the conversion manual. So far only two replies! I have no intensions of ever flying behind one of these welded hubs or three blade props, but I am very interested in the fact that the taper on the crank was considdered adequate to transfer motor power/torque. As I am planning on building a longer than usual prop hub extension for a cleaner looking cowling. This extension will be supported by an external bearing housed in an aluminuim fabrication bolted to the four protrusions around the crankshaft. I don,t doubt that the taper as is would eventually fail due to fatigue from handling gyroscopic loads imposed by the prop without any external support but what I would like to know is would the standard taper handle the torque loads produced by the motor disregarding all other forces. Is there a formulae for working out what torque load a particular taper of a particular length with a particular loading by a securing bolt in the centre can handle without failing? Any of you engineers willing to tackle this one? From the two replies so far there is no mention of the crankshaft/prop hub junction failing, only the welded part and the prop itself of which I will be using neither. I know this is tedious for some of you but please bear with me guys, after all this is why they call it experimental. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:16:42 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" To: "krnet@mylist.net" Subject: KR>Bad Windshield News Message-ID: <3FB7F74A.000009.03700@Computer> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 2 Well, this was to be the weekend that the windshield and passenger window were installed. So, since the weather was cooperating, I got the windshi= eld down to get it ready for installation. While removing the tape from arou= nd the edges, I noticed some all too familiar little streaks through the protective covering. So, to be sure, I removed some of the covering and = in fact, the entire area around the bend is full of little cracks, just like the Lexan had.=0D =0D I was told by a person who should know, ( now you tell me ), that I shoul= d have heated the Plexi to 300 and kept it there for at least an hour. Wel= l, I was trying to apply only enough heat to get it to form. =0D =0D I'm sick, Jerry is sick and now we start all over again.=0D =0D The only reason I bring you this bad news is so you will know why it seem= s that we don't make any progress and to discourage you from ever trying to= do this when you can buy a canopy bubble from Todd for a little over $300.=0D =0D Sometimes everything just SUCKS. =0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20From Flymaca711689@aol.com Sun Nov 16 14:46:07 2003 Received: from imo-d03.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.35]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1ALVeh-000KhK-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sun, 16 Nov 2003 14:46:07 -0800 Received: from Flymaca711689@aol.com by imo-d03.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v36_r1.1.) id g.166.2850a45c (4568) for ; Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:51:18 -0500 (EST) From: Flymaca711689@aol.com Message-ID: <166.2850a45c.2ce95965@aol.com> Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:51:17 EST To: krnet@mylist.net MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: 9.0 for Windows sub 5002 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1b3 Subject: KR>rain and the kr X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: each time it drizzles i don't fly i cant find any information on the effects of lite rain other then higher stick pressers with the Kr. it seams that most wood propped airplanes don't fly anyway do to damage with or without urethane edge is what i understand. i just like to know if IM caught in a shower will it do damage to the aircraft i always wipe it down if it gets wet or washing i also avoid the hinge points (controls) mac. n1055a flying flymaca711689@aol.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 23:58:56 +0100 From: Kogelmann Christian - OS ETA To: 'KRnet' Subject: RE: KR>rain and the kr Message-ID: <9D054CEF43F1C243A279E5435E9717461DBC95@sviemxs02.gate01.skylines.global> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 3 I flew my KR-2S in rain, it is reasonably waterproof. However the water comes in from the tail elevator and rudder cutouts. Drainholes are needed in the aft fuselage. However the propeller suffers most. it is truly amazing what rain (soft water) does to a (hard wood) propeller. Basically I hade to repaint the leading edge. Christian OE-VPD http://www.members.aon.at/oevpd -----Original Message----- From: Flymaca711689@aol.com [mailto:Flymaca711689@aol.com] Sent: Sonntag, 16. November 2003 23:51 To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>rain and the kr each time it drizzles i don't fly i cant find any information on the effects of lite rain other then higher stick pressers with the Kr. it seams that most wood propped airplanes don't fly anyway do to damage with or without urethane edge is what i understand. i just like to know if IM caught in a shower will it do damage to the aircraft i always wipe it down if it gets wet or washing i also avoid the hinge points (controls) mac. n1055a flying flymaca711689@aol.com _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:59:14 -0600 From: "Steve and Lori McGee" To: Subject: KR>Carb ? Message-ID: <003d01c3ac9d$a56a35b0$0202a8c0@lori8v5h2xi9m3> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 4 It seems to me that some of us may be trying to re-invent the wheel = here. There has to be some good flying KRs out there with the corvair = setup. Those that are running superbly, why not post your setup design = / carb style, location, etc. Then those starting from scratch and new = builders just mimick it. Same for prop choice I for one am not going to = try and go faster or farther with my own design when I know crap about = this stuff. I would LOVE to know what to set up so that I will cruise = at the 180 people are talking about and just be happy as a fart in a = movie theater.=20 Safe Flying to ya! Steve McGee Endeavor Wi. Building a KR2S widened. lmcgee@maqs.net=20 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:06:33 -0500 From: "Ron Freiberger" To: "KRnet" Subject: RE: KR>Bad Windshield News Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <3FB7F74A.000009.03700@Computer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 5 I know it's still good for some laughs, but a charcoal grill and a big cardboard box will do the trick. If you want to know more, let me know Ron Freiberger mailto: rfreiberger@swfla.rr.com I was told by a person who should know, ( now you tell me ), that I should have heated the Plexi to 300 and kept it there for at least an hour. Well, I was trying to apply only enough heat to get it to form. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:09:39 -0500 From: "Ron Freiberger" To: "KRNET" Subject: KR>use a puddy squigy Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 6 use a puddy squigy to work in the resin! I'll bet we won't find that in the archives! What is a puddy squigy? Ron Freiberger mailto: rfreiberger@swfla.rr.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 17:15:03 -0700 From: "Bob Sauer" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Carb & Prop Message-ID: <00be01c3ac9f$d92ba6c0$a43a3818@ph.cox.net> References: <003d01c3ac9d$a56a35b0$0202a8c0@lori8v5h2xi9m3> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 7 My research leads me to believe that a Harley Davidson carb and a Warp Drive 55" 3-blade without taper should push the KR2S with the WW Corvair engine about 180 mph, with a clean airframe. Bob From: resauer@cox.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve and Lori McGee" Subject: KR>Carb ? It seems to me that some of us may be trying to re-invent the wheel here. There has to be some good flying KRs out there with the corvair setup. Those that are running superbly, why not post your setup design / carb style, location, etc. Then those starting from scratch and new builders just mimick it. Same for prop choice I for one am not going to try and go faster or farther with my own design when I know crap about this stuff. _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:28:32 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>type IV conversion manual dene colllet Message-ID: <00dc01c3acaa$1cf6f3f0$1202a8c0@basement> References: <000b01c3ac81$7e1d1660$a598ef9b@telkomsa127179> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 8 Dene Collett wrote: > Is there a formulae for working out what torque load a particular > taper of a > particular length with a particular loading by a securing bolt in the centre > can handle without failing? Any of you engineers willing to tackle > this one? Machinery's Handbook has this kind of thing in it, I'm sure. I'll try to remember to check it tomorrow. So do some of my old text books, but that would probably require that I figure out what a derivative is again. But my gut feeling is that I wouldn't dream of using that end of the crankshaft for a prop, especially behind a big engine. I realize that some folks are running big Type 4s and getting away with it, but there are plenty of stories of broken cranks in Type 4s floating around. Steve Makish had three crank failures in his T4, two of which were the 4340 Scat variety, and one was a stocker. (Too bad he departed KRnet a few months ago). You might could argue that something was amiss in the balance department, or something like that, but he's not the only one I've heard who's had crank problems. The bottom line is that VW designed that joint to pull a fan and an alternator, and the occasional air conditioner compressor, which is maybe 20 horsepower total. I wouldn't trust it to transmit 90 HP for hours on end, and many others have come to that same conclusion. Well, you already know my opinion. I'd run it off the crank end, where the power was meant to be delivered. If you're going to design something to take the gyroscopic loads anyway, I'd fasten it to the other end of the crank... Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:00:10 -0500 From: "Les Criscillo" To: "KR2 Mailing List" Subject: KR>Using new AS5046 Wing Templates on Stock KR2 Message-ID: <007201c3acb6$ef2db000$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 9 I've been putting in my 2 cents worth here and there, but now I = have a question: When using the new templates, which level line is used in a stock = KR2? I bought my KR in the boat stage, with the center main and rear = spar already installed. I'd built one set of wings, but had done such a = poor job on them, that I pulled all the glass and foam off and resolved = to start over again.=20 They are stock length, and I don't plan on making any changes other = than adding the required 1/8" cap strip on the forward spar. I've = looked over the templates and see the chord line and 2 level lines = marked with the notation that these are for 1.75deg of incidence. As = mine is already set, I'm not sure where to go from here.=20 Les Criscillo Tampa, FL Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com LesLifeandfriends@groups.msn.comFrom rpmmouse@msn.com Sun Nov 16 18:56:14 2003 Received: from bay3-dav109.bay3.hotmail.com ([65.54.169.139] helo=hotmail.com) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1ALZYk-0009eb-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sun, 16 Nov 2003 18:56:14 -0800 Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:01:33 -0800 Received: from 67.25.232.237 by bay3-dav109.bay3.hotmail.com with DAV; Mon, 17 Nov 2003 03:01:32 +0000 X-Originating-IP: [67.25.232.237] X-Originating-Email: [rpmmouse@msn.com] From: "roger mitchell" To: , "KRnet" References: Subject: Re: KR>use a puddy squigy Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 21:01:29 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: MSN 8.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By MSN MimeOLE V8.50.0017.1202 Seal-Send-Time: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 21:01:30 -0600 Message-ID: X-OriginalArrivalTime: 17 Nov 2003 03:01:33.0468 (UTC) FILETIME=[1B5E8DC0:01C3ACB7] Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1b3 X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: my spelling is not my strong suit, go to the auto parts store , buy the = item used to apply body puddy,I hope this clears up the comfusion,we use = the afore mentioned method at American A/L when doing composit repairs ( epoxy resin/glass repairs) we use a rather stiff squ?????,flexable = plastic applicator, sorry for my mental blocks P.S. thanks Ron I got the package on thursday=20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Ron Freiberger=20 To: KRNET=20 Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2003 6:09 PM Subject: KR>use a puddy squigy=20 use a puddy squigy to work in the resin! I'll bet we won't find that in the archives! What is a puddy squigy? Ron Freiberger mailto: rfreiberger@swfla.rr.com _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:46:49 -0500 (EST) From: To: Subject: KR>Bubbles Message-ID: <3595.216.194.23.29.1069040809.squirrel@www.hsweb.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Precedence: list Message: 10 Thanks guys, for all suggestions and hints with my bubble problem. Also I received an email from the guy who is not on the KR-net list. He in fact knew that I am using wax for mold release and I have the feeling that he is more than right about my attempts in composite layout. While his website is not KR related it is still worth to look at to learn about finishing of composite airplane. George george@hsweb.net Here is whole email I got from him: "I saw your post on kr list , I monitor the list on the web but do not subscribe because I don't want all the posts in my mail box To your problem with bubbles in spinner carbon lay up. My guess is you are using wax as mold release. Because wax repels resin the trapped air forms little bubbles right at the inner mold surface. Use PVA as mold release and you will have much better result , the technique of the lay up is important also, put in the first ply of carbon and use squeegee to push all air out and not just a brush, let the first ply cure enough that it will not get disturbed before adding the rest of the plies, then you don't have to vorry about it anymore . When using PVA you can also brush in a coat of resin first and let it cure then do the lay up. This is impossible to do on waxed surface because the resin will break up and fish eye. Btw, carbon does not work well on spinners, it is brittle and it tends to crack the way aluminum does. I would use carbon on the outside for the "look" but Kevlar on the inside plies. You can repost this to the mail list others might want to see it. My web http://curedcomposites.netfirms.com/index.html Good luck, George." ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 19:59:03 -0800 (PST) From: Ray Fuenzalida To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Belts Message-ID: <20031117035903.69171.qmail@web42006.mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: <001a01c3abfb$971ee070$f2452141@Beverly> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 11 Another good place for belts is the racing community. A friend races dragsters and they have to change their belts every 2 years to maintain their certification. They are perfectly good and that's what I'm using. --- Colin wrote: > Netters, > It occurred to me that some may also be in the > market for belts as I was recently, so I thought I > would make known my source for all. I used belts > from Summit Racing Supply, they are RCI brand and > they are the 2inch wide street racing belts, not the > 3 inch wide. They have the shoulder belts already > sewn onto the lap belts so you do not have to have a > bulky latch assembly to buckle them. The buckle is automotive style > and certified for the street for cars. I figure that is good enough > to keep me in one spot for the KR. Anything harder than that, and > I expect very little plane to be left anyhow, haha. > > Colin & Bev Rainey KR2(td) > crainey1@cfl.rr.com > Sanford, Florida > FLY > SAFE!!!!_______________________________________________ > see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Protect your identity with Yahoo! Mail AddressGuard http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:37:29 -0500 From: VIRGIL N SALISBURY To: engalt@earthlink.net,krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Re: secondary ignition system Message-ID: <20031116.230455.880.4.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 12 Very hard to read, Virg On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 18:02:34 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Brian Kraut writes: > > Glad you asked. I had a few minor issues that needed a little cl > arification. I am copying this to the net because I am sure that > some > > > I was also concerned with the screw going into the O-ring and > asked > St it so yet s is real and it w engine was runni from > the drive gear t my O-ring was missing b supposed to use the > distr gasket kit. Now I suppose th put the screw in a little > higher so sure Steve thought about it a lot onlger t reason for > it. It does make the timing adjust because you can tighten down a > little on that one scre have the distributor give some resistance > to turning while you t the engine. Also keeps the screw from > putting a flat spot on the distributor housing. > > > > The other thing to watch out for is the alignment of the > distributor > h the but don't cable coming o I aligned the g the back > of the engine there is an oil hole in the hole in the engine > case inside the degree window to get the holes aligned s case > is a pretty long oval. > > > > I would also advise taking off the cover plate that is right next > to > t you put correctly with the prop a littl the drive > gear. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 22:35:02 -0600 From: "Larry A Capps" To: "'KRnet'" Subject: KR>Bubbles Message-ID: <000001c3acc4$2b04acc0$0200a8c0@schpankme> In-Reply-To: <3595.216.194.23.29.1069040809.squirrel@www.hsweb.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 13 I'd recommend you replace the carbon with S2 glass or E-glass; however, your problem is easily fixed with the additional application of "extra heavy hold hair spray" (aerosol type) used in the mold. Hair spray cheap substitute for the traditional PVA mold release. Remove the hair spray with warm water and an abrasive pad before sanding in preparation for primer/paint. Make sure to use wax in the mold, then apply the heavy hold hair spray before making your part. You'll find this method to be extremely successful your first time out. Best Regards, Larry A Capps Naperville, IL -----Original Message----- Thanks guys, for all suggestions and hints with my bubble problem. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 05:32:52 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" To: Subject: KR>george@hsweb.net Message-ID: <3FB8A3D4.00001A.03700@Computer> References: <3595.216.194.23.29.1069040809.squirrel@www.hsweb.net> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 14 George,=0D =0D Thank you for sending this. I wish I had it a year ago. This answers al= l of the questions about finishing, that we have been asking lately.=0D =0D KR Builders,=0D =0D If you are getting ready to finish your plane, read this first. I have p= ut it in my Favorites.=0D =0D george@hsweb.net=0D =0D N64KR=0D =0D Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC=0D =0D DanRH@KR-Builder.org=0D =0D See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering=0D =0D See our KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Click on the pic=0D See our EAA Chapter 242 at http://EAA242.org=0D =20From matheson@dodo.com.au Mon Nov 17 03:31:10 2003 Received: from relay01.kbs.net.au ([203.220.32.149]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1ALhb3-000CBx-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Mon, 17 Nov 2003 03:31:10 -0800 Received: from [203.220.151.29] (helo=Office) by relay01.kbs.net.au with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1ALhgB-0006ui-00; Mon, 17 Nov 2003 22:36:28 +1100 Message-ID: <005301c3acff$0b90c1e0$1d97dccb@Office> From: "Phil Matheson" To: , "KRnet" References: Subject: Re: KR>use a puddy squigy Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 22:35:59 +1100 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Could only be a putty Knife. ( small Trowel) Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au VH-PKR ( reserved) 61 3 58833588 See our VW Engines and Home built web page at http://www.vw-engines.com/ www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 07:01:21 -0500 From: "Dana Overall" To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Bad Windshield News Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 15 Dan, I had a very informative visit to the manufacturer of Van's canopies a couple weeks ago. While Todd can do certain canopies, he is technically unable to provide the canopy for my airplane. I wanted a custom color so I worked individually with the manufacturer. They are located just north of Dayton, OH. I talked with them at length about doing custom blown or pressed canopies for individual applications. They are very accomodating and extremely reasonable. They have canopy molds for all kinds of airplanes, including the canopy for the F-23 radar signature test. I am assuming you used a mold to lay the plexi over to form your canopy. If you still have those molds, this manufacturer just might be able to use them to fix you up real quick. They always have numerous colors to choose from in inventory. Matter of fact, I'd be willing to bet if you went there, scheduled, they would do it while you waited. If you are interested in talking with them, or anyone else who might want a custom canopy, let me know off list and I'll relay there name and number. Dana Overall 1999 & 2000 National KR Gathering host Richmond, KY RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive _________________________________________________________________ Is your computer infected with a virus? Find out with a FREE computer virus scan from McAfee. Take the FreeScan now! http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 23:03:58 +1100 From: "Phil Matheson" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>type IV conversion manual dene colllet Message-ID: <008201c3ad02$f44f1870$1d97dccb@Office> References: <000b01c3ac81$7e1d1660$a598ef9b@telkomsa127179> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 16 I personally do not like VW engines running off the small pulley end. They should only have the prop on the Flywheel end, this is where the power is meant to be transferred and where the thrust is meant to me carried. Have a look at the VW web page http://www.vw-engines.com/ Phil Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au VH-PKR ( reserved) 61 3 58833588 See our VW Engines and Home built web page at http://www.vw-engines.com/ www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 07:37:42 -0600 From: "roger mitchell" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>use a puddy squigy Message-ID: References: <005301c3acff$0b90c1e0$1d97dccb@Office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 17 a puddy knife could possably cut into the plastic overlay sheet, a = plastic blade works better,it takes a bit of pressure to to work out all the dry areas=20 Could only be a putty Knife. ( small Trowel) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 15:59:52 +0200 From: "Eric Evezard" To: "KR NEWS" Subject: KR>Oil Pres.Sender Message-ID: <000001c3ad13$8eceb080$17ce07c4@user> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 18 Hi Netters, What is the best position for the oil pressure gauge sender.? Mine has = replaced the original warning light sender.As this was originally used = to simply operate a warning light on/off, how accurate are the gauge = readings here ? Mine is a type 4 long block V W engine. Best Regards, Eric Evezard, South Africa. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 09:00:53 -0500 From: "Ron Freiberger" To: "KRnet" Subject: RE: KR>use a puddy squigy Message-ID: In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 19 Now I have it! He meant a Putty Squegee. Ron Freiberger mailto: rfreiberger@swfla.rr.com a puddy knife could possably cut into the plastic overlay sheet, a plastic blade works better,it takes a bit of pressure to to work out all the dry areas Could only be a putty Knife. ( small Trowel) _______________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 13:04:42 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Using new AS5046 Wing Templates on Stock KR2 Message-ID: <010d01c3ad3d$a8b28d30$1202a8c0@basement> References: <007201c3acb6$ef2db000$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 20 Les Criscillo wrote: >> When using the new templates, which level line is used in a stock KR2? I bought my KR in the boat stage, with the center main and rear spar already installed. I'd built one set of wings, but had done such a poor job on them, that I pulled all the glass and foam off and resolved to start over again. They are stock length, and I don't plan on making any changes other than adding the required 1/8" cap strip on the forward spar. I've looked over the templates and see the chord line and 2 level lines marked with the notation that these are for 1.75deg of incidence. As mine is already set, I'm not sure where to go from here. << Les, did you see the instructions at http://www.krnet.org/as504x/as5046inst.html ? Here's an excerpt: "If your horizontal stabilizer is already glued in place at the zero degrees incidence called for in the plans, you can install your wings with 1.75 degrees of incidence at the root. The goal is to have 1.75 degrees of "decalage" (angular difference) between the h/s incidence and wing root incidence. The spruce spacer (under the aft spar) will probably be about 1" tall if your h/s is set to 0 degrees, or 1.29" if your h/s is set to -.75 degrees, but these are only approximate. This is ONLY if your h/s is already set to 0 degrees. The templates that we ship are in matched sets, with one version yielding -.75 degrees for the h/s and 1 degree for the wing root, and the other version using 0 degrees for the h/s and 1.75 degrees for the wing root. Use of our h/s and v/s airfoils is optional. " I think this answers your question. You have the correct set of drawings for your application. The chord line is really just there for reference. Assuming your fuselage is level (and it should be for this stage) then you use either or both of the "1.75 degree level lines" to set the incidence. Those lines are to be set to be parallel (level) to the longerons or whatever you call "level" on your airplane. The end result will be that your chord line is inclined 1.75 degrees to your fuselage, which is closer to the correct incidence for this airfoil. See the instructions, if you haven't already. It's the same process as building per the plans, except that the level line on the template is inclined 1.75 degrees to the chord line rather than 3 degrees. Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 14:59:03 -0500 From: "Les Criscillo" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Using new AS5046 Wing Templates on Stock KR2 Message-ID: <010b01c3ad45$41dbd320$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> References: <007201c3acb6$ef2db000$0300a8c0@your1rnfg39627> <010d01c3ad3d$a8b28d30$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 21 Les Criscillo Tampa, FL Lcriscil@tampabay.rr.com http://groups.msn.com/LesLifeandfriends/homepage ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Mark Langford=20 To: KRnet=20 Sent: Monday, November 17, 2003 14:04 Subject: Re: KR>Using new AS5046 Wing Templates on Stock KR2 Les, did you see the instructions at http://www.krnet.org/as504x/as5046inst.html ? Here's an excerpt: Thanks Mark! I hadn't seen that page. I appreciate you pointing me in = the right direction. Off to build! _______________________________________________ see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 222, Issue 1 *************************************