From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 340, Issue 1 Date: 3/14/2004 12:03:12 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Elevator balance amount (Steve and Lori McGee) 2. Re: smooth wings (larry severson) 3. Isopropyl alcohol 4. Freel Web Site (Ron Eason) 5. Re: Elevator balance amount (Kenneth L Wiltrout) 6. Re: thinning epoxy (Mark Langford) 7. Aileron deflection/spacer (larry flesner) 8. Fwd: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer (Linda Warner) 9. Re: thinning epoxy (larry severson) 10. Ellison TBI (Don Sprague) 11. canopy on e-bay 12. Aileron deflection/spacer (larry flesner) 13. Aileron deflection/spacer (larry flesner) 14. Re: Aileron deflection/spacer (Mark Langford) 15. Incidence (Len Steyn) 16. Re: Incidence (Mark Langford) 17. Wood washer = Fender Washer (Steve and Lori McGee) 18. Re: Aileron deflection/spacer (Donald Reid) 19. Re: Aileron deflection/spacer (Joseph H Horton) 20. Clorox on old wood ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:05:44 -0600 From: "Steve and Lori McGee" To: Subject: KR>Elevator balance amount Message-ID: <000a01c40958$18e77310$0202a8c0@lori8v5h2xi9m3> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 1 I did the elevator counter balance today with the elevator being the = "Horn " style ( Richard Mole design ) with the naca 63009 airfoil. With the weight in the horns it took a total of 28 ounces of lead in 4 = peices of conduit. Maybe 29 OZ in all. Anyone else know the weight = required for their counter balance? I was wondering where I sat for = weight comparison. Also this HS is almost 8 feet wide.=20 Now with the weight in the horns there is no worry of a bracket = breaking under G loads. The horns are well wrapped with carbon and I = plan on wraping some light deck cloth around the wood rib on the outside = as there is room. This will also make up for the extra weight of paint = on the larger rear side of the elevator. =20 Steve McGee Endeavor Wi. USA Building a KR2S widened. lmcgee@maqs.net=20 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 16:19:51 -0800 From: larry severson To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>smooth wings Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20040313161840.02802f48@pop-server.socal.rr.com> In-Reply-To: References: <5.2.1.1.0.20040312154101.028069e8@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 2 > Are you using straight isopropyl alcohol No >or rubbing alcohol yes Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:31:43 EST From: FlashyAllen@aol.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Isopropyl alcohol Message-ID: <1ed.1b68222b.2d8501ef@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 3 > A couple months ago, information was published on how to get smooth > wings. He said that you should make dry micro ( dry enough to stand up > - not > slump) and apply it all over o a depth of 1/8-1/4 inches and then sand it > down to level, removing all of the depressions. That was well and good, > except I was unable to get it to lay down. all I got was a mess. Yesterday, > I found out what was left out in the information - isopropyl alcohol > (rubbing alcohol). >Are you using straight isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol which is >91% alcohol and 9 % water? Also, watch out for some supermarket/drug store versions of "rubbing alcohol," they may contain a small amount of mineral oil! Allen G. Wiesner 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401 (203) 732-0508 flashyallen@aol ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:38:31 -0600 From: "Ron Eason" To: "KRnet" Subject: KR>Freel Web Site Message-ID: <000d01c4095c$ad8ff330$6501a8c0@Administration> References: <000a01c40958$18e77310$0202a8c0@lori8v5h2xi9m3> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 4 http://www.mykitplane.com/ Not bad for documenting your project, it free. I may use it, have to check it out alittle more. Ron ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 20:34:40 -0500 From: Kenneth L Wiltrout To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Elevator balance amount Message-ID: <20040313.203440.2484.0.klw1953@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 5 I did not counterbalance my elevator as per the plans. These airplanes are usually tail heavy as opposed to nose heavy with today's over weight pilots. That being said------------putting almost 2 lbs of lead that far to the rear will have a more dramatic effect on the cg than you may think. Use caution. If you are hanging a corvair upfront then I wouldn't worry about it. On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:05:44 -0600 "Steve and Lori McGee" writes: > I did the elevator counter balance today with the elevator being > the "Horn " style ( Richard Mole design ) with the naca 63009 > airfoil. > With the weight in the horns it took a total of 28 ounces of lead in > 4 peices of conduit. Maybe 29 OZ in all. Anyone else know the > weight required for their counter balance? I was wondering where I > sat for weight comparison. Also this HS is almost 8 feet wide. > Now with the weight in the horns there is no worry of a bracket > breaking under G loads. The horns are well wrapped with carbon and > I plan on wraping some light deck cloth around the wood rib on the > outside as there is room. This will also make up for the extra > weight of paint on the larger rear side of the elevator. > > Steve McGee > Endeavor Wi. USA > Building a KR2S widened. > lmcgee@maqs.net > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 20:17:26 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>thinning epoxy Message-ID: <0d8e01c4096a$7ed4dfc0$1202a8c0@basement> References: <20040313180428.98560.qmail@web12605.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 6 NetHeads, Larry Capps sent me some interesting info on thinning epoxy. It was written by the folks at West Systems, but probably applies to all of them to some extent. Two different articles, at: http://www.krnet.org/misc/thinning_epoxy.html and http://www.krnet.org/misc/thinning_epoxy.pdf Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 21:36:07 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20040313213607.007b69f0@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <001a01c4090f$169772c0$6601a8c0@mdgwd52jlrmc3l> References: <001401c40879$d05e9120$99ef0843@RaineyDay> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 7 >You may also find that adding a washer ( 3/16 flat) between the rod end >and the aileron control arm will help get the required deflection. Without the washer, the rod end will bind on the arm at the end of >it's travel each way. >Chris Gardiner ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I ended up using some spacers from the hardware store to space the aileron push rod off the aileron arm. It took approx 3/16" to keep the rod from binding. I started with longer spacers and filled them down to the length needed. Have a helper move the stick through it's full travel and check to see if the pushrod will rotate slightly (not binding) at each end of the travel extreem. I also spaced the pushrod down from the bellcrank for better alignment. Also, make sure you use a "wood washer" over the outside of the rod end bearing on each end. If the bearing comes loose from the rod end, the rod won't drop completely off. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 22:56:16 -0500 (EST) From: jaslkw@webtv.net (Linda Warner) To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Fwd: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer Message-ID: <10366-4053D7E0-1957@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> Content-Type: Multipart/Mixed; Boundary=WebTV-Mail-1506-1063 MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Precedence: list Message: 8 --WebTV-Mail-1506-1063 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Hey Larry... maybe we should tell the folks that what you recommend using are AN970 flat washers. Some of these guys would be trying to find washers made of wood:-) John Sickafoose EAA Tech Counselor Naples, Fl --WebTV-Mail-1506-1063 Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Message/RFC822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Received: from smtpin-3218.bay.webtv.net (209.240.204.182) by storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net with WTV-SMTP; Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:38:08 -0800 (PST) Received: from lizard.esosoft.net (lizard.esosoft.net [66.113.66.18]) by smtpin-3218.bay.webtv.net (WebTV_Postfix+sws) with ESMTP id 8FC7611DC8; Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:38:08 -0800 (PST) Received: from localhost ([127.0.0.1] helo=lizard.esosoft.net) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1B2MZ8-000KY8-02; Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:45:30 -0800 Received: from capitol.mail.pas.earthlink.net ([207.217.120.180]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1B2MZ6-000KY3-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:45:28 -0800 Received: from dsc05-cir-oh-206-215-101-71.rasserver.net ([206.215.101.71] helo=larry-flesner) by capitol.mail.pas.earthlink.net with smtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 1B2MRr-00042d-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sat, 13 Mar 2004 19:38:00 -0800 Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20040313213607.007b69f0@pop.midwest.net> X-Sender: flesner@pop.midwest.net (Unverified) X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.6 (32) Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 21:36:07 -0600 To: KRnet From: larry flesner In-Reply-To: <001a01c4090f$169772c0$6601a8c0@mdgwd52jlrmc3l> References: <001401c40879$d05e9120$99ef0843@RaineyDay> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: Sender: krnet-bounces@mylist.net Errors-To: krnet-bounces@mylist.net X-Brightmail: Message tested, results are inconclusive >You may also find that adding a washer ( 3/16 flat) between the rod end >and the aileron control arm will help get the required deflection. Without the washer, the rod end will bind on the arm at the end of >it's travel each way. >Chris Gardiner ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I ended up using some spacers from the hardware store to space the aileron push rod off the aileron arm. It took approx 3/16" to keep the rod from binding. I started with longer spacers and filled them down to the length needed. Have a helper move the stick through it's full travel and check to see if the pushrod will rotate slightly (not binding) at each end of the travel extreem. I also spaced the pushrod down from the bellcrank for better alignment. Also, make sure you use a "wood washer" over the outside of the rod end bearing on each end. If the bearing comes loose from the rod end, the rod won't drop completely off. Larry Flesner _______________________________________ to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html --WebTV-Mail-1506-1063-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 20:41:53 -0800 From: larry severson To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>thinning epoxy Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20040313204015.027f2448@pop-server.socal.rr.com> In-Reply-To: <0d8e01c4096a$7ed4dfc0$1202a8c0@basement> References: <20040313180428.98560.qmail@web12605.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 9 These absolutely apply when bonding. However, my comments were restricted to using dry micro as a filler/leveler. >Two different articles, at: > >http://www.krnet.org/misc/thinning_epoxy.html and >http://www.krnet.org/misc/thinning_epoxy.pdf Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 00:40:05 -0600 From: "Don Sprague" To: Subject: KR>Ellison TBI Message-ID: <004f01c4098f$3008e880$4f02a8c0@don> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 10 I have an EFS2 Ellison on my 1835cc GPVW. I know that Ben Ellison = insists on the use of AVGAS but has anyone tried using auto gas in it? = His reason is that auto gas additives will affect the gaskets. I've got about 25 hours on my bird now and did my first "cross country" = roundrobin today, about 1 hour and 20 minutes and skirting a = thunderstorm cell off the beach in Galveston. What a hoot! I'm = beginning to get some confidence in the engine which hasn't stopped = since I extended the headertank vent 6 inches. This was really fun! =20 I really enjoyed the accounts of your flights, Larry. It gave me the = incentive to continue on til the problem was solved. Thanks, Don Sprague KR2 N118DS Houston, Texas Don Sprague KR2 N118DS Houston, TexasFrom joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com Sun Mar 14 05:08:46 2004 Received: from m11.nyc.untd.com ([64.136.22.74]) by lizard.esosoft.net with smtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1B2VME-000OZh-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sun, 14 Mar 2004 05:08:46 -0800 Received: from cookie.untd.com by cookie.untd.com for <"oW6qI6wMsUtv1XrWoHzIbePmsDrC34+TFJv7EC3JfOIpb8yaH9VXGcM9N6bHlOJ7">; Sun, 14 Mar 2004 05:00:50 PST Received: (from joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com) by m11.nyc.untd.com (jqueuemail) id JQPEE27A; Sun, 14 Mar 2004 05:00:50 PST To: krnet@mylist.net Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 07:58:22 -0500 Subject: Re: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer Message-ID: <20040314.075823.-406823.0.joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com> X-Mailer: Juno 4.0.5 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 0-1,3-16,20,23-26 X-Juno-Att: 0 X-Juno-RefParts: 0 From: Joseph H Horton X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 21:36:07 -0600 larry flesner writes: > >You may also find that adding a washer ( 3/16 flat) between the rod > end and > >the aileron control arm will help get the required deflection. > Without the washer, the rod end will bind on the arm at the end of > >it's travel each way. > >Chris Gardiner > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > Also, make sure you use a "wood washer" over the outside of the rod > end bearing on each end. If the bearing comes loose from the rod end, > the rod won't drop completely off. > > Larry Flesner I also fond in my initial fit up of the linkage that spacers were going to be needed. Although I wasn't surprised as I had modified the bell crank to fit neatly in the new airfoil. I'm using 3/16" alum tube cut to length as spacers. Larry - Sorry, but I don't follow the thought. I'm using fiberlock castle nuts with cotter pins on the rotating bolts. ( belt and suspenders in my thoughts) Isn't that OK.? Joe Horton Coopersburg, Pa. joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:48:55 EST From: Frlfarmer@wmconnect.com To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>canopy on e-bay Message-ID: <1d8.1c592e60.2d85bcc7@wmconnect.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 11 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2466395949& category=26438 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:00:52 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20040314080052.008656d0@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <10366-4053D7E0-1957@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 12 >Hey Larry... maybe we should tell the folks that what you recommend >using are AN970 flat washers. Some of these guys would be trying to >find washers made of wood:-) John Sickafoose +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Thanks John. I thought about putting in the part number but couldn't get myself to get my butt off the chair, get the catolog and look it up. You'd think I'd have that number memorized by now. I got in 1.7 hours on the KR yesterday. 21.7 total now!! The air was not smooth enough to do any testing so I just went out and played. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:21:10 -0600 From: larry flesner To: KRnet Subject: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20040314082110.0086a100@pop.midwest.net> In-Reply-To: <20040314.075823.-406823.0.joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 13 I'm using 3/16" alum tube cut to >length as spacers. I'm using fiberlock >castle nuts with cotter pins on the rotating bolts. ( belt and >suspenders in my thoughts) Isn't that OK.? Joe Horton +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The cotter pin/castle nut should keep the bolt in place but look at the size of the bearing in the rod end. If it pulls out, the bolt, nut, cotter pin, will all pull through the rod end. The AN970 washer would keep that from happening and at least keep the pushrod in place, if not tight. As for the tubing for a spacer, just make sure it's heavy enough wall thickness that you can snug down the rod end bearing without crushing the tubing. Use you best judgement. Speaking of judgement I was amazed, when looking at a friends Mooney, to find fiber locknuts ONLY on every single hinge point bolt for all the control surfaces. I'm no expert but I can't believe that is correct. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:08:43 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer Message-ID: <004401c409d6$3e248a90$2502a8c0@800Athlon> References: <3.0.6.32.20040314082110.0086a100@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 14 Larry Flesner wrote: > As for the tubing for a spacer, just make sure it's heavy enough wall > thickness that you can snug down the rod end bearing without crushing > the tubing. Use you best judgement. Over the years, I've ended up with thickwall aluminum tubing for just about every size bolt. Just find the thickest wall tubing in the Wicks (or AS&S, if you must) catalog that has a few thousands clearance for your bolt (inside diameter). I buy a foot or two so I always have some on hand. I got an hour of Champ taildragger time in yesterday, and the thing practically landed itself. Flying and keeping the ball centered was an entirely different matter though! I've befriended a local CFI who owns four taildraggers by making him a fiberglass nosebowl for one of his two Swifts. It was easy (I borrowed a mold), but it's like Dana said, I now have a friend for life. He's going to get me tailwheel endorsed and my BFR, and I'll be ready for some KR time. I've got news though, the KRs I've flown (about 6 of them) fly a whole lot easier than this Champ! If the weather holds up, I' should get in another 7 or 8 landings today... Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 17:02:40 +0200 From: "Len Steyn" To: "KRnet" Subject: KR>Incidence Message-ID: <001101c409d5$66c83f60$b8a8fea9@co.za> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Precedence: list Message: 15 Hi all I just joined in the fun. Building a KR2 modified into a S in South = Africa.=20 I would like to ask some advice please. Having looked at the various = ways to set wing incidence, can I do it in the following way or will = something catch me. Using the full scale template's, draw the spars in. Measure from the top = or bottom inside the distance to the cordline where it intersects the = spar. Transfer this to the actual spars. Connect the two points by = drawing a line on the fuselage. Setting the firewall to vertical, = measure the incidence angle in this line. Thanks to the guys driving this, the amount of free information is = awesome Len Steyn Secunda South Africa len@cybertimes.co.za ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:22:02 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Subject: Re: KR>Incidence Message-ID: <0db701c409d8$1d52d450$1202a8c0@basement> References: <001101c409d5$66c83f60$b8a8fea9@co.za> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 16 Len Steyn wrote: > Using the full scale template's, draw the spars in. Measure from the > top or bottom inside the distance to the cordline where it intersects the spar. Transfer this to the actual spars. Connect the two points by drawing a line on the fuselage. Setting the firewall to vertical, measure the incidence angle in this line.< Sounds like a plan to me. Keep in mind though that your firewall probably isn't vertical with comparison to your fuselage (of course it depends on where you check the fuselage). Dan Diehl recommends you put a 2 foot level on your top longeron centered between forward and aft spars and use that as level. One bonus is that you can always get there to measure, unlike your firewall after a bunch of stuff is attached to it (I've finally lived long enough to have that problem). Check each longeron and if they are different, decide which one you're going to use and stick with it. And the longeron is more representative of how the plane itself will be flying, rather than the firewall. Having said all of that, a lot of people have used the firewall and they are doing just fine. It's probably just personal preference, until somebody figures out what angle the fuselage is optimally supposed to fly at anyway... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:33:56 -0600 From: "Steve and Lori McGee" To: "KRnet" Subject: KR>Wood washer = Fender Washer Message-ID: <002b01c409d9$c3cd4760$0202a8c0@lori8v5h2xi9m3> References: <3.0.6.32.20040314080052.008656d0@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 17 For those of you who don't know ;-) Steve McGee Endeavor Wi. USA Building a KR2S widened. lmcgee@maqs.net ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 10:56:40 -0500 From: Donald Reid To: KRnet Subject: Re: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20040314105036.01bbb988@pop.erols.com> In-Reply-To: <3.0.6.32.20040314082110.0086a100@pop.midwest.net> References: <20040314.075823.-406823.0.joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed MIME-Version: 1.0 Precedence: list Message: 18 At 08:21 AM 3/14/2004 -0600, you wrote: >Speaking of judgement I was amazed, when looking at a friends Mooney, >to find fiber locknuts ONLY on every single hinge point bolt for all >the control surfaces. I'm no expert but I can't believe that is >correct. If the bolt can rotate with the control surface, it has to be secured with a castle nut and cotter pin. When the bolt clamps the hinge together onto a bearing, the bolt does not rotate with the control surface movement. Most certificated airplanes use ball bearing equipped hinges; hence, lock nuts are appropriate. Don Reid - donreid "at" erols.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: AeroFoil, a 2-D Airfoil Design And Analysis Computer Program: http://www.eaa231.org/AeroFoil/index.htm KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.orgFrom flesner@midwest.net Sun Mar 14 08:13:37 2004 Received: from capitol.mail.pas.earthlink.net ([207.217.120.180]) by lizard.esosoft.net with esmtp (Exim 3.36 #1) id 1B2YF7-0000l8-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:13:37 -0800 Received: from dsc08-cir-oh-204-32-84-133.rasserver.net ([204.32.84.133] helo=larry-flesner) by capitol.mail.pas.earthlink.net with smtp (Exim 3.33 #1) id 1B2Y7t-0000oW-00 for krnet@mylist.net; Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:06:10 -0800 Message-Id: <3.0.6.32.20040314100418.00865990@pop.midwest.net> X-Sender: flesner@pop.midwest.net X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.6 (32) Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 10:04:18 -0600 To: KRnet From: larry flesner In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.0.20040314105036.01bbb988@pop.erols.com> References: <3.0.6.32.20040314082110.0086a100@pop.midwest.net> <20040314.075823.-406823.0.joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Subject: KR>control surface attach bolts X-BeenThere: krnet@mylist.net X-Mailman-Version: 2.1b3 Precedence: list Reply-To: KRnet List-Id: KRnet List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: List-Help: >If the bolt can rotate with the control surface, it has to be secured >with >a castle nut and cotter pin. When the bolt clamps the hinge together onto >a bearing, the bolt does not rotate with the control surface >movement. Most certificated airplanes use ball bearing equipped hinges; >hence, lock nuts are appropriate. >Don Reid - ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ As I recall the control surfaces rotated on bearings but I guess maybe these bolts just weren't tight enought as they would sometimes rotate with the control surface movement. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 12:21:21 -0500 From: Joseph H Horton To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR>Aileron deflection/spacer Message-ID: <20040314.123538.-450651.0.joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Precedence: list Message: 19 Thanks Larry -- I understood it was a metal washer, now I understand what you were protecting against. The alum. tube spacer was ordered just for this purpose and is heavy wall. Thanks, Joe On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:21:10 -0600 Larry flesner writes: > I'm using 3/16" alum tube cut to > >length as spacers. > I'm using fiberlock > >castle nuts with cotter pins on the rotating bolts. ( belt and > suspenders > >in my thoughts) Isn't that OK.? > >Joe Horton > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > The cotter pin/castle nut should keep the bolt in place but look at > the size of the bearing in the rod end. If it pulls out, the bolt, > nut, cotter pin, will all pull through the rod end. The AN970 > washer would keep that from happening and at least keep the > pushrod in place, if not tight. > > As for the tubing for a spacer, just make sure it's heavy enough wall > thickness that you can snug down the rod end bearing without crushing > the tubing. Use you best judgement. > > Speaking of judgement I was amazed, when looking at a friends Mooney, > to find fiber locknuts ONLY on every single hinge point bolt for all > the control surfaces. I'm no expert but I can't believe > that is correct. > > Larry Flesner > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > Joe Horton Coopersburg, Pa. joe.kr2s.builder@juno.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 18:43:15 +0000 From: rickcoy@comcast.net To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR>Clorox on old wood Message-ID: <031420041843.10846.72fb@comcast.net> Precedence: list Message: 20 I checked the archives on this but couldn’t get a definitive answer to the use of Clorox on plywood. I have 20 year old KR project that has some moisture damage to the boat (my site will show you what stage I’m in: http://home.comcast.net/~rickcoy/RAF.html). Some of the varnish is worn away and some of the stains look like they might be some kind of mould. Is Clorox safe on glue joints? Do I use it full strength, then rinse -- or leave it on? Rick Coykendall KR2 San Francisco Bay Area rickcoy@yahoo.com ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 340, Issue 1 ************************************* ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================