From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 6 Date: 7/2/2004 8:08:31 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Corvair availability (StRaNgEdAyS) 2. Re: KR1 project for sale (idrawtobuild@ncinternet.net) 3. Re: outboard spar taper (Boeing757mech1@aol.com) 4. RE: outboard spar taper (Stephen Jacobs) 5. Re: outboard spar taper (Mark Langford) 6. RE: outboard spar taper (Stephen Jacobs) 7. RE: outboard spar taper (Donald Reid) 8. RE: Corvair availability (Doug Rupert) 9. RE: Corvair availability (Doug Rupert) 10. Re: outboard spar taper (Pat Driscoll) 11. Re: lack of power and over sensitivity (Al Friesen) 12. RE: outboard spar taper (Stephen Jacobs) 13. RE: outboard spar taper (Stephen Jacobs) 14. To Sand or Not to Sand (Stephen Jacobs) 15. list members dropped, or can't post! (Mark Langford) 16. Re: lack of power and over sensitivity (Al Friesen) 17. Please unsubscribe me (jwwr@bellsouth.net) 18. Cockpit fresh air supply (Dan Heath) 19. Where is Starkville, MS (Bill Page) 20. Re: KR Paint (Timothy Bellville) 21. Re: KR Paint (Timothy Bellville) 22. Fiberglass Solvent (JEHayward@aol.com) 23. Re: RE: KR> spar skins/ Australia (Phillip Matheson) 24. Re: Welcome Bill (Phillip Matheson) 25. Re: Fiberglass Solvent (Kenneth B. Jones) 26. Re: Tapering Outboard Spars (Phillip Matheson) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 00:00:25 +1000 From: "StRaNgEdAyS" Subject: Re: KR> Corvair availability To: Message-ID: <40E56A79.000067.02628@motherfucker> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Peter W. said: "I wish i could find a corvair engine in Europe." I have a friend in England who is building a fitzer bipe that recently acquired a Corvair engine very economically, I'll get his contact details for you, or you could go to http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com and message a man named Johnny love biplanes and I'm sure he would be happy to point you in the right direction. Cheers. Peter Bancks strangedays@dodo.com.au http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com http://canardaviationforum.dmt.net ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 08:14:09 -0700 From: Subject: KR> Re: KR1 project for sale To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000701c46047$39b87170$0f00a8c0@greg> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I had posted this KR1 for sale in the past, about 6 weeks ago. I have now purchased a digital camera (in hopes I can learn to operate it) so I can send pictures to whom ever wants them. This was a flying KR1. I have taken the header tank out and I'm presently placing the tanks in the wings. I have replaced the firewall, with only the cowling for an 1835VW engine left for firewall forward with the plane. The landing gear lever is on the same type as the Mooney style. You pull back and down, not forward to retract the gear and have started a 'clamshell' style of faring in the gear when retracted. I'm asking $2,500. If it doesn't sell, I'll finish it. Greg Martin 661-204-9723 home, 661-823-9401 off ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 12:42:15 EDT From: Boeing757mech1@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> outboard spar taper To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <15d.38f9dfff.2e16ea67@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" In a message dated 7/2/2004 5:19:11 AM US Mountain Standard Time, n56ml@hiwaay.net writes: You could also do it with a belt sander The 43-13 recommends not sanding any surfaces to be bonded except on plywood. Chris Theroux Gilbert, AZ ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 19:28:54 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: RE: KR> outboard spar taper To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000001c4605a$102acca0$9664a8c0@home> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Years ago on the net or in the newsletter someone suggested tapering only 0ne side of the outboard caps. That also gave 90 degree glue joints on the upright spacers ++++++++++++++++++++ This is the way I would like very much to go - mainly to have more surface area (glue area) for the wing skins. I am doing the bent-spar number, that means laminated caps, so it is convenient to taper this way - progressively shorter strips. The way mine are drawn, the pillars are all the same length and the joints are 90 degrees. With the AS5048 to 46 this results in the outboard sections of the caps probably being a bit thicker (stronger) than they really need to be - is this a problem? The spar cap spacing is notably bigger with the new sections. I gather from the structural guys that this makes for a stronger wing spar (for the same size cap material) - question is, are the shear loads now greater maybe requiring a heavier ply web? I missed the last boat from Africa, so I shall miss the "gathering" maybe Bwana Larry will attempt some email instruction on the neat levelling trick. Have a great weekend Steve J Zambia ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 12:46:51 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> outboard spar taper To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <008201c4605c$8ec1cda0$1202a8c0@basement> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Chris Theroux wrote: > The 43-13 recommends not sanding any surfaces to be bonded except on plywood. I've seen that, but I'll bet you money if you stick two pieces of spruce together with T-88 after they've been sanded, it'll break somewhere other than the joint. Not to say you should deliberately defy 43-13, but I wouldn't let that stop me if it were the only way. I always vacuum the joint and wipe with lacquer thinner (and give it plenty of time to evaporate) before I join them if they've been sanded. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama N56ML "at" hiwaay.net see KR2S project at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 20:01:23 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: RE: KR> outboard spar taper To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000b01c4605e$99783200$9664a8c0@home> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I've seen that, but I'll bet you money if you stick two pieces of spruce together with T-88 after they've been sanded, it'll break somewhere other than the joint +++++++++++++++++++ I have often seen this instruction, but could never see the reasoning. One article by Bingelis took it a step further and said planing is Ok, but not sanding. Surely a planed surface is a whole lot smoother than a sanded surface. In many years of wood work, sanding was one sure way to get wood ready for an adhesive. Removing wax /oil /dirt is the idea - in my view much more important than vacuuming the wood dust - that is no worse that a bit of micro. Maybe the reason is more about sanding a radius into the area to be glued - i.e., destroying the flush fit between the two parts. Steve J ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Fri, 02 Jul 2004 15:40:17 -0400 From: Donald Reid Subject: RE: KR> outboard spar taper To: KRnet Message-ID: <6.1.0.6.2.20040702153749.01c7aa18@pop.erols.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 01:28 PM 7/2/2004, you wrote: >The spar cap spacing is notably bigger with the new sections. I gather >from the structural guys that this makes for a stronger wing spar (for >the same size cap material) - question is, are the shear loads now >greater maybe requiring a heavier ply web? The shear load is not affected. It is always the total weight that is being carried by the spar. Increasing the spacing between the spar caps does not affect the shear. Don Reid - donreid "at" erols.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: AeroFoil, a 2-D Airfoil Design And Analysis Computer Program: http://www.eaa231.org/AeroFoil/index.htm KR2XL construction: http://users.erols.com/donreid/kr_page.htm Aviation Surplus: http://users.erols.com/donreid/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 15:42:28 -0400 From: "Doug Rupert" Subject: RE: KR> Corvair availability To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <004a01c4606c$b60ebc50$5e04e440@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thanks for the point in the right direction Mark. Most older vehicles went to the smelter up here in Canada when the price of scrap was high and many of the yards here are virtually void of potential donors. On another note, I finished the rear outboard spar per design sent off net and am awaiting completion of the forward spar before sending the pair out for structural analysis. On the good side, using this method of construction an average builder can build all spars in one day, wait for the epoxy to cure then go on with wing construction. Standard KR2 rear spar came in at 4.82 lbs with WAFs installed, minus the tip extensions. The one piece spar came in slightly higher as it was solid right to end without using foam. As soon as I get a scale that reads higher than 5 lbs, will forward all data to you off list to distribute as seen fit. Doug ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 15:42:28 -0400 From: "Doug Rupert" Subject: RE: KR> Corvair availability To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <004b01c4606c$b7a6c170$5e04e440@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thanks Brian, good advice since I do NOT like buying an engine that I can't hear running an Lord knows there aren't any of those in wrecking yards, only in restorable Corvairs and cutting one of them up would be considered sacrilege. One of the major reasons I began looking towards the auto conversions in the first place was availability of engines and parts at a reasonable cost. Reliability is also high on the priority list as pucker factor rises proportionally to distance from suitable landing areas when need arises. Doug ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 14:58:26 -0500 From: "Pat Driscoll" Subject: Re: KR> outboard spar taper To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <005001c4606e$f062eaa0$402cdacf@oemcomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Stephen' The problem with sanding is that the wood dust gets into the grain and the glue sticks to the dust more so than the hard wood. This is more important on end grain gluing than on a flat spar length. Pat Driscoll patrick36@usfamily.net Saint Paul, MN ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------ ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 13:35:17 -0800 From: "Al Friesen" Subject: Re: KR> lack of power and over sensitivity To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <003201c4607c$77efec40$b53506cf@alk1e9f7i3pcg3> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Net, I think the KR2S is a great flyer. It has exellent cross wind control (sock straight out) and no dents. I would prefer a sensative plane over a (sloppy) control plane. Mine is a very forgiving plane if I use some brake input on a wheel landing. I love the controllability of the design. A l,, ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry flesner" To: "KRnet" Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 5:04 PM Subject: KR> lack of power and over sensitivity > At 07:31 PM 7/1/04 -0400, you wrote: > >RE: One glaring deficiency with the KR series aircraft has been lack > >of power and over sensitivity of controls and since Jeanette seems as > >though she is not interested in addressing these problems > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > "Lack of power" is totally dependent on the empty weight of the > aircraft you build and the engine you chose to use. It doesn't have > to be under powered. Cut the weight or install a larger engine. Just > keep in mind that there are limits to either. > > "Over sensitivity" of controls is a relative term. Depends on what > you're used to. A Cessna or Piper it's not but it's no more sensitive > then say a Bell 206 Jet Ranger. Talk about sensitive! Yet they are > flown everywhere > and landed on rooftops and all sorts of places. The KR controls are > "light" and "very responsive" but "over sensitive", I don't think so after > 70 hours on mine. There have been times, like when my four point > harness popped open at 1000 feet, that I've wished the KR to be more > stable so I could take my hand off the stick for more than a few > seconds and wrestle about the cockpit. But then I wouldn't feel like > a fighter pilot after a flight in the KR. As for Jeanette not > addressing the problem > she did, years ago, witht the 2S. If you are just starting a project that's > what you should be building. > > I've come to realize that it is sometimes the pucker in the seat that > pulls the grin on your face. :-) > > Larry Flesner - 70 hours and still grinning! > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 22:38:11 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: RE: KR> outboard spar taper To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000201c46074$8138e980$4264a8c0@home> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Increasing the spacing between the spar caps does not affect the shear. ++++++++++++++++++++++ Thank you. Steve J ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 22:45:59 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: RE: KR> outboard spar taper To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000301c46075$9869b0c0$4264a8c0@home> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The problem with sanding is that the wood dust gets into the grain and the glue sticks to the dust more so than the hard wood ++++++++++++++++++++++ Makes sense Pat - the way I saw it, the wood dust would ultimately be in suspension (in the glue) as would some micro balloons or other filler. I guess the dust that is settled in the "voids" will prevent the adhesive from getting in there. Steve J ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 22:47:50 +0200 From: "Stephen Jacobs" Subject: KR> To Sand or Not to Sand To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000401c46075$da7be7d0$4264a8c0@home> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I've seen that, but I'll bet you money if you stick two pieces of spruce together with T-88 after they've been sanded, it'll break somewhere other than the joint +++++++++++++++++ Roger that Mark - gold star and you are class capt for the week. I decided to check on the statement I made earlier re Bingelis - from his article Aircraft Woodwork Basics (Sport Aviation - 9/96): "A sanded soft wood surface in preparation for gluing is considered to be inferior to a smoothly planed one but those amazing epoxies don't know the difference". I feel better now coz I will sand and clean carefully every time. Steve J Zambia ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 16:20:22 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR> list members dropped, or can't post! To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <011e01c4607a$625ee7c0$5e0ca58c@net.tbe.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Several folks have emailed me that they couldn't post to the list. I went to check on it and discovered that there were ZERO members of KRnet. I notified the ISP and they recovered a backup file from three months ago and now we're working again. Only problem is that all of the settings were from three months ago as well, and any changes in settings and passwords has now reverted to what it looked like three months ago, so you need to go back and make the same changes that you've made in the last three months, if any. And now there will be a bunch of new subscribers that will be really irrate with me... Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL N56ML at hiwaay.net see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 14:35:55 -0800 From: "Al Friesen" Subject: Re: KR> lack of power and over sensitivity To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <007901c46084$f03485a0$b53506cf@alk1e9f7i3pcg3> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Friesen" To: "KRnet" Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 1:35 PM Subject: Re: KR> lack of power and over sensitivity > Net, > I think the KR2S is a great flyer. It has exellent cross wind control (sock > straight out) and no dents. I would prefer a sensative plane over a (sloppy) > control plane. Mine is a very forgiving plane if I use some brake > input on a > wheel landing. I love the controllability of the design. A l,, > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "larry flesner" > To: "KRnet" > Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 5:04 PM > Subject: KR> lack of power and over sensitivity > > > > At 07:31 PM 7/1/04 -0400, you wrote: > > >RE: One glaring deficiency with the KR series aircraft has been > > >lack of power and over sensitivity of controls and since Jeanette > > >seems as though > > >she is not interested in addressing these problems > > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > > > "Lack of power" is totally dependent on the empty weight of the > > aircraft you build and the engine you chose to use. It doesn't have > > to be under powered. Cut the weight or install a larger engine. > > Just keep in mind that there are limits to either. > > > > "Over sensitivity" of controls is a relative term. Depends on what you're > > used to. A Cessna or Piper it's not but it's no more sensitive then > > say a Bell 206 Jet Ranger. Talk about sensitive! Yet they are > > flown > everywhere > > and landed on rooftops and all sorts of places. The KR controls are > > "light" and "very responsive" but "over sensitive", I don't think > > so > after > > 70 hours on mine. There have been times, like when my four point > > harness popped open at 1000 feet, that I've wished the KR to be more > > stable so I could take my hand off the stick for more than a few > > seconds and wrestle about the cockpit. But then I wouldn't feel > > like a fighter pilot after a flight in the KR. As for Jeanette not > > addressing the > problem > > she did, years ago, witht the 2S. If you are just starting a > > project > that's > > what you should be building. > > > > I've come to realize that it is sometimes the pucker in the seat > > that pulls the grin on your face. :-) > > > > Larry Flesner - 70 hours and still grinning! > > > > > > > > _______________________________________ > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 17:35:24 -0400 From: Subject: KR> Please unsubscribe me To: KRnet Message-ID: <20040702213524.QACY1705.imf16aec.mail.bellsouth.net@mail.bellsouth.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > From: VIRGIL N SALISBURY > Date: 2004/07/01 Thu PM 06:25:00 EDT > To: uvm@ufanet.ru, krnet@mylist.net > Subject: Re: KR> I want to build it > > Buy the Plans, See RR for details, Virg > > On Thu, 1 Jul 2004 21:46:14 +0600 Ufanet mail writes: > > Hello, krnet. > > > > I desided to build KR2S. It looks great. Can anybody > > email me drawings? > > > > -- > > Best regards, > > Urmanov Valera mailto:uvm@ufanet.ru > > > > > > _______________________________________ > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > > > > > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL > www.lubedealer.com/salisbury > Miami ,Fl > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 18:31:55 -0400 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: KR> Cockpit fresh air supply To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <40E5E25B.000003.03664@COMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" No, not hot air, I have plenty of that. How are you, who have gotten to that point, doing your fresh air supply for the cockpit. I was going to use snap vents in the side of the fuselage, but, have decided that the uncovered part of the hole is too large. I am thinking of those little swivel things like they have on the airliners or something like that. I am interested in everything from the intake to the outlet. Thanks in advance. "There is a time for building and a time for flying, and the time for building has long since expired." See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 18:09:18 -0500 From: "Bill Page" Subject: KR> Where is Starkville, MS To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000501c46089$9c363200$c3c794d0@youryk5cbmeeo8> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Dan, Thanks for the inquiry. Starkville, MS is located in NE Mississippi. It is the home of Mississippi State University. There are several aircraft related industries here. The Raspet Flight Research Lab at MSU, Globle Aviation (a research/manufacturer), American Eurocopter, and Dupont Aero Space. Starkville is 65 miles south of Tupelo, 25 miles west of Columbus (Columbus Air Force Base) and 90 miles north of Meridian. I will send pictures with the next communication. Where have I been? I attended 2 KR gatherings in Tennessee, 1 in Kentucky, 1 in Perry, Okla. and 1 in Red Oak, Iowa. I am not very outgoing, so I was somewhat ignored by the Old Timers. For the past several months I have been sanding & filling, sanding & filling, sanding & filling ----------sanding & filling. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Heath" To: Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 5:52 AM Subject: KR> Please add me to the list > Bill, > > Welcome, I guess you are on the list now. 99% complete, where have > you been? Got pics? > > "There is a time for building and a time for flying, and the time for > building has long since expired." > > See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics Daniel R. > Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2004 - KR Gathering > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 19:45:03 -0400 From: "Timothy Bellville" Subject: Re: KR> KR Paint To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000a01c4608e$994ba2f0$6c2b4b0c@HPHome> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi James, They said that they may set by themselves to a satisfactory condition, but may not. I put her out in to the sun again today just to see how bad it is ,and I am reasured that there wasen't as many today. but I will decide what too do on sunday after she sits outside all day in the sun. If there are only a few areas that are bad, I'll fix them and just plan on repainting the intire plane this fall. If this is the case please be kind with your evulation of her. I can hide alot of the defects with the placards,but not all of them. BTW The manager of the dead letter office in Atlanta is still trying to locate all the parts, I am very disgusted with them at this point. Tim ----- Original Message ----- From: "James R Freeman" To: "KRnet" Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 12:53 AM Subject: Re: KR> KR Paint > Tim: > Sorry to hear about the paint job. I wanted to see some pics of > the silver KR. Did the Polyfiber people say if a second coat would work? > Jim > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Timothy Bellville" > To: "KRnet" > Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 12:16 AM > Subject: KR> KR Paint > > > > Well Guys , I am very depressed with what happened today. It was > > about one > > week ago that I shot the finel coats of paint on my KR fusalage, and today > I > > decided to finish the wing outer panels . I pulled the fusalage out > > in to > > the yard to clear the shop for the wings , in to 85 deg. direct sunlight. > > after shooting the last coat on the wing, I went out to play with > > the engine, and discovered to my dismay, that I had bubbles under > > the new > paint > > in several areas. > > After talking to the folks at polyfiber, they said that I had > > solvent outgassing from the primer.Now I will admit that I was some > > what relived that it wasen't delaminating of the fiberglass,I still > > have a crappy paint > > job now. > > They also said that I picked just about the hardest paint to shoot(Navada > > Silver), for a novice painter(Me). > > So after wasting $250 on silver paint I guess I should conform to everyone > > else and paint it white. > > I was not completly happy with the paint job before the bubbles now > > I'm disgusted with it. I do love the color,but I doubt I have the > > experence to > > get it to look right. > > I do not know if I will be ready for Airventure. > > Damn, looks like I'm driving again. > > Tim > > > > > > > > _______________________________________ > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 19:49:00 -0400 From: "Timothy Bellville" Subject: Re: KR> KR Paint To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002601c4608f$2636c550$6c2b4b0c@HPHome> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks for the vote of confidence, The more I look at her I still am disgusted with myself but I hope to salvage this paint job for this season at least. Tim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Kraut" To: "KRnet" Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 8:47 AM Subject: RE: KR> KR Paint > Don't feel too bad. It is probably not as bad as you think. All the > prep work before you paint is what takes a long time. You may be able > to fix it > easier than it looks right now. > > Brian Kraut > Engineering Alternatives, Inc. > www.engalt.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net]On > Behalf Of Timothy Bellville > Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 5:26 AM > To: KRnet > Subject: Re: KR> KR Paint > > > Thanks Peter, > After sleeping on it I still don't feel much better about it, but I > still think I should go with the white.The guy from poly fiber said I > should wait > a week before sanding the bad areas down and re coating,he also > sugested not > repriming the silver. > I have been thinking that maybe I need to put her back in the sun to" > Bake " > her again and identify the bad areas, then trim out the bubble with a razor > knife to release the trapped solvent and remove the loose paint.I > think this > would allow me to feather edge the damaged areas without disturbing > the good > paint to much. > It will take about three days to get the new paint from aircraft spruce,and > for my next weekend off to paint it. > God I hate waisting money and time. > Thanks > Tim > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "StRaNgEdAyS" > To: > Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 4:40 AM > Subject: Re: KR> KR Paint > > > > Hey there Tim. > > > > Don't loose heart. > > I remember making some horrible mess ups when I started painting > > cars and > > bikes back in the late '80s. One job I totally stuffed up in '96 > > even > after > > a lot of practice was a tank on one of my bikes. That was layering > > clear > red > > tinter over flat white to get a deep blood red effect, but I did > > exactly > the > > same thing you did, and failed to wait until the solvent had > > completely > gone > > from the basecoat before I layered up 5 coats of clear red. It > > looked absolutely scary! Paint up a few pieces of scrap and get the > > hang of it. I'm no professional > > painter, but after doing a few practice pieces after even an 8 year break > > from painting as I have had now, I can manage a reasonable job. > > > > Cheers. > > Peter Bancks. > > strangedays@dodo.com.au > > http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com http://canardaviationforum.dmt.net > > _______________________________________ > > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 21:32:38 EDT From: JEHayward@aol.com Subject: KR> Fiberglass Solvent To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <157.38f68b0d.2e1766b6@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Anyone know of a solvent that I could wash/wipe a cured fiberglass surface with to remove the sheen so epoxy would adhere? I'm making a fiberglass gear leg for my Challenger ultralight and need to epoxy 3 short tubes together, one inside the other. I sanded the last set I made which worked well but was a real chore for the inside surfaces of the mating tubes. Thanks.... Jim Hayward Rapid City, SD ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 16:32:23 +1000 From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: RE: KR> spar skins/ Australia To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000101c460a7$af7b6100$5a96dccb@StationW2k04> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Gavin I just got the price below from Marine Timbers in Melbourne. The $445 was for most of the Spruce need to build a KR Fuse. and the hoop pine ply per sheet. ----------- Phillip price for hoop pine as per list - $445.00 3/32 (2mm) ply $66.55 1/8 (3mm) ply $66.55. all prices include GST ex mulgrave Best Regards Campbell ----------------------------------------- Phillip Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au Australia VH PKR See our engines and kits at. http://www.vw-engines.com/ http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ See my KR at Mark Jones web http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/pmkr2.html ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 12:48:45 +1000 From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Welcome Bill To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001701c460a8$42828a00$5a96dccb@StationW2k04> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Bill welcome to or great KR list. Enjoy, and we can all learn from each other Phillip Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au Australia VH PKR See our engines and kits at. http://www.vw-engines.com/ http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ See my KR at Mark Jones web http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/pmkr2.html ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2004 22:53:43 -0400 From: "Kenneth B. Jones" Subject: Re: KR> Fiberglass Solvent To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <009c01c460a8$f41c8ae0$8d7ba8c0@oemcomputer> I use E-Z Poxy on my White Lightning. I'm told to sand the surface and to wipe with MEK prior to applying epoxy. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 9:32 PM Subject: KR> Fiberglass Solvent > Anyone know of a solvent that I could wash/wipe a cured fiberglass > surface with to remove the sheen so epoxy would adhere? I'm making a > fiberglass gear > leg for my Challenger ultralight and need to epoxy 3 short tubes > together, one > inside the other. I sanded the last set I made which worked well but > was a > real chore for the inside surfaces of the mating tubes. Thanks.... > > Jim Hayward > Rapid City, SD > > _______________________________________ > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 26 Date: Sat, 3 Jul 2004 13:09:59 +1000 From: "Phillip Matheson" Subject: Re: KR> Tapering Outboard Spars To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <005801c460ab$3a4ac7f0$5a96dccb@StationW2k04> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Why go to all that trouble anyway? If you build the spars as per Dan Diehl instructions, at http://www.diehlaero.com/ Dan does not taper the spars both ways, he leaves the spars 2" Wide or ( 1 15/16" I've forgotten already) all the way to the tips, this gives a much larger area for the skins or glass to contact the spars, with only minor gain in weight. Phillip Matheson matheson@dodo.com.au Australia VH PKR See our engines and kits at. http://www.vw-engines.com/ http://www.homebuilt-aviation.com/ See my KR at Mark Jones web http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/pmkr2.html ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 346, Issue 6 ************************************* ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================