From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 157 Date: 4/22/2005 2:20:27 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. RE: KRs in Northern CA ??? (rickcoy@comcast.net) 2. Re: Stability ----- was: Some new Pictures and Video (Barry Kruyssen) 3. posa carbs (Don Chisholm) 4. rivnut question (Oscar Zuniga) 5. R?f. : KR> rivnut question (Serge VIDAL) 6. Re: R?f. : KR> rivnut question (VIRGIL N SALISBURY) 7. rivnut question (Oscar Zuniga) 8. Re: Some new Pictures and Video (raybeth123@sbcglobal.net) 9. R?f. : KR> rivnut question (Serge VIDAL) 10. Re: rivnut question (Mark Langford) 11. R?f. : Re: KR> rivnut question (Serge VIDAL) 12. Re: rivnut question (Ron Butterfield) 13. FOR SALE - Air/Oil Separator (Mark Jones) 14. Re: rivnut question (VIRGIL N SALISBURY) 15. Re: rivnut question (William Jeffries) 16. Re: rivnut question (Allen Wiesner ) 17. (no subject) (Lyracw@wmconnect.com) 18. Re: rivnut question (Tinyauto@aol.com) 19. RE: KR Accident (Mark Jones) 20. rivnut question (rhartwig11@juno.com) 21. Re: KR Accident (Tinyauto@aol.com) 22. posa carbs (Oscar Zuniga) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 04:43:53 +0000 From: rickcoy@comcast.net Subject: RE: KR> KRs in Northern CA ??? To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <042220050443.28346.426881090003930D00006EBA220074567297010C050C079D@comcast.net> Hi, Bennnett. As Steve mentioned, I live in Pacifica and am building a KR-2 (I'm about 20 percent done). There’s another KR guy in our EAA chapter named Scott and we’re both going to be assisting at the Dream Machines fly-in at Half Moon Bay Airport this weekend. Come on by if you can -- just be sure to get there by 7:30 a.m. otherwise the traffic will be impossible. You can reach me at rickcoy@comcast.net. Rick Coykendall Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 07:55:06 -0700 From: "Steve Glover" < kr02g@cox.net > Subject: RE: KR> KRs in Northern CA ??? To: "KRnet" < krnet@mylist.net > New to the KR List - Are there any KRs being built or flying in or near the San Francisco Bay area?? I just returned from Sun 'n Fun where I saw my first KR2-S ... I'd like to learn more. Thanks. ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 16:57:42 +1000 From: "Barry Kruyssen" Subject: Re: KR> Stability ----- was: Some new Pictures and Video To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <01bd01c54708$9ae33860$7d00a8c0@technologyonecorp.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks Phillip The handling is superb in my opinion. Yes the controls are sensitive compared to a C150, etc. but no more than an LS7 glider. I can't fly hands off for more than 1 minute or so. I have a bungy strap on the elevator cable to assist with static balancing and this provides a dampening effect (I think). My CofG is right at the forward limit with me in it. The centre stick rest against my leg with my hand resting on my leg also, I need to make an arm rest of my elbow. If I pull back on the stick too fast I get a slight buffeting in the elevator, I'm told by another KR2 ex-owner that this is normal as the tail gets shadowed by the main wing. Confirmation please? I find it wants to drop the nose in tight turns and accelerate, so I tend to do tight turns with a bit of top rudder (side slipping into the centre of the turn) this gives a smoother turn without dropping the nose and accelerating, and does not alter my turn radius or G loading. This technique is used in gliders for thermalling and is very effective. (I expect this to raise a few eyebrows and maybe get me some flaming, but it works for me.:-) I must admit that all the talk on stability is scary for the inexperienced (me) and I probably would not have bought a KR2 if I had read the last few weeks of the email list when looking for an aircraft. BUT Gladly, I do own a KR2 and I am sooooooooooooooooo please I do. I have no problem at all with stability, so far. Maybe it's my gliding back ground and lack of powered time that helped me (only 34 hours of powered flight before first flighting my KR2). After having many rides in different aircraft the KR2 is the most fun to fly. Fast, manoeuvrable,,,,, did I mention FAST:-), nice looking, etc. All this said, I have yet to take a passenger, though I have had extra 40kg weight in the aircraft and this did effect the handling a little, even the burning of 30 litres from the header tank is slightly noticeable (it took my many hours to really notice a difference). A final word (disclaimer), keep within your limits, results may vary, runway behind you is useless, etc, etc, you get the picture. (as I am very inexperienced I welcome all guidance) Happy flying Barry Kruyssen Cairns, Australia RAA 19-3873 kr2@BigPond.com http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: Phillip Matheson Great photo's I'll check out the video from my home computer , not my works. Well done. How does she feel & handle??? ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 06:52:14 -0400 (EDT) From: Don Chisholm Subject: KR> posa carbs To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050422105214.13178.qmail@web88008.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I imagine this is an old story with success and horror tales but I gather they can be made to work. I'm probably buying an Aerocarb but will give the posa another shot as I keep hearing and reading about some success stories and am interested in feedback both pro and con ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 08:13:07 -0500 From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR> rivnut question To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Howdy, netters; I've never used 'rivnuts' and am looking at the info on pullers. Rivnuts are handy where you are working something with a blind side, such as if you need a threaded attachment to a tube and you can't access the other side to install a nutplate or nut. The "real" rivnut tool isn't cheap and neither is the "simplified" model, but there is a mandrel available such that you can install them using your regular pop rivet puller. My question is, does a regular pop rivet puller have enough backbone to pull a rivnut? If so, who would buy the $100+ tool in the first place? And it seems like it would be easy to strip out the threads if you put too much squeeze on it, but again- I've never installed one so I guess you just squeeze a little at a time. I don't have a lot of them to install, so I don't need a heavy-duty tool for the job. Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 15:39:23 +0200 From: Serge VIDAL Subject: R?f. : KR> rivnut question To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Oscar, I am a Rivnut enthusiast, so I went for the $ 100+ tool. But if you only want to install a few of them, the "simplified model" will work just fine for the small sizes, up to, say, 5mm. Beyond that, or if you want to go pretty cheap, you always can make your own tool. Just use a bolt, a couple of washers, and a nut. Screw the nut on the bolt, put the washers in place, then screw the bolt in the Rivnut. Hold the bolt with a spanner, and screw the nut using another spanner. The nut will pull the bolt, that will pull the Rivnut thread. The washers are here to protect the Rivnut flange surface. Whatever the solution you use, don't worry too much about damaging the threads. As long as you go slow, everything will be fine, because it takes less strength to squeeze the Rivnut than to break its threads. And of course, start by training on a scrap piece. Good luck, Serge Vidal KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud" Paris, France "Oscar Zuniga" Envoyé par : krnet-bounces@mylist.net 2005-04-22 15:13 Veuillez répondre à KRnet Remis le : 2005-04-22 15:13 Pour : krnet@mylist.net cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) Objet : KR> rivnut question Howdy, netters; I've never used 'rivnuts' and am looking at the info on pullers. Rivnuts are handy where you are working something with a blind side, such as if you need a threaded attachment to a tube and you can't access the other side to install a nutplate or nut. The "real" rivnut tool isn't cheap and neither is the "simplified" model, but there is a mandrel available such that you can install them using your regular pop rivet puller. My question is, does a regular pop rivet puller have enough backbone to pull a rivnut? If so, who would buy the $100+ tool in the first place? And it seems like it would be easy to strip out the threads if you put too much squeeze on it, but again- I've never installed one so I guess you just squeeze a little at a time. I don't have a lot of them to install, so I don't need a heavy-duty tool for the job. Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:58:43 -0400 From: VIRGIL N SALISBURY Subject: Re: R?f. : KR> rivnut question To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050422.095843.3744.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Do not forget the NOTCH to keep the Rivnut from turning, Virg On Fri, 22 Apr 2005 15:39:23 +0200 Serge VIDAL writes: > Oscar, > > I am a Rivnut enthusiast, so I went for the $ 100+ tool. But if you > only > want to install a few of them, the "simplified model" will work just > fine > for the small sizes, up to, say, 5mm. > > Beyond that, or if you want to go pretty cheap, you always can make > your > own tool. Just use a bolt, a couple of washers, and a nut. Screw the > nut > on the bolt, put the washers in place, then screw the bolt in the > Rivnut. > Hold the bolt with a spanner, and screw the nut using another > spanner. The > nut will pull the bolt, that will pull the Rivnut thread. The > washers are > here to protect the Rivnut flange surface. > > Whatever the solution you use, don't worry too much about damaging > the > threads. As long as you go slow, everything will be fine, because it > takes > less strength to squeeze the Rivnut than to break its threads. And > of > course, start by training on a scrap piece. > > Good luck, > > Serge Vidal > KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud" > Paris, France > > > > > > "Oscar Zuniga" > > Envoyé par : krnet-bounces@mylist.net > 2005-04-22 15:13 > Veuillez répondre à KRnet > Remis le : 2005-04-22 15:13 > > > Pour : krnet@mylist.net > cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) > Objet : KR> rivnut question > > > > Howdy, netters; > > I've never used 'rivnuts' and am looking at the info on pullers. > Rivnuts > are handy where you are working something with a blind side, such as > if > you > need a threaded attachment to a tube and you can't access the other > side > to > install a nutplate or nut. > > The "real" rivnut tool isn't cheap and neither is the "simplified" > model, > but there is a mandrel available such that you can install them > using your > > regular pop rivet puller. My question is, does a regular pop rivet > puller > > have enough backbone to pull a rivnut? If so, who would buy the > $100+ > tool > in the first place? And it seems like it would be easy to strip out > the > threads if you put too much squeeze on it, but again- I've never > installed > > one so I guess you just squeeze a little at a time. > > I don't have a lot of them to install, so I don't need a heavy-duty > tool > for > the job. > > Oscar Zuniga > San Antonio, TX > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net > > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL www.lubedealer.com/salisbury Miami ,Fl ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:05:04 -0500 From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR> rivnut question To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Virg wrote- >Do not forget the NOTCH to keep the Rivnut from turning, Virg Aha! I saw that they offer both plain and "keyed" rivnuts. I guess the keyed ones take a notch. How is that notch made? I had figured on putting a dab of Locktite or epoxy on before I squeezed them, to keep them from turning. Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:07:08 -0500 From: Subject: Re: KR> Some new Pictures and Video To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <005901c54744$92d77870$6e499445@DELL> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Some great pictures and a nice looking plane. Thanks, Barry. Ray Goree (Arlington, Texas) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barry Kruyssen" To: "KRnet" Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 8:52 PM Subject: KR> Some new Pictures and Video > Hi all, > > Yesterday my father took some photos and video of my KR2 doing fly > bys. > See: http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/Picture_Gallery.htm > > Video links at the top and new photos at the bottom > > Regards > Barry Kruyssen > Cairns, Australia > RAA 19-3873 > > kr2@BigPond.com > http://www.users.bigpond.com/kr2/kr2.htm > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 16:18:08 +0200 From: Serge VIDAL Subject: R?f. : KR> rivnut question To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Never saw a "keyer" Rivnut. Mine are all flat. This being said, they are not Rivnuts per se, but a competing product (Nutsert, or whatever; there are quite a few on the market). But they all have some grooves, either on the back side of the flange, or on the squeezable part, that prevent them from turning once they are in place. Locktite or Epoxy will work well, but if the hole is tight, you don't need it. Serge "Oscar Zuniga" Envoyé par : krnet-bounces+serge.vidal=sagem.com@mylist.net 2005-04-22 16:05 Veuillez répondre à KRnet Remis le : 2005-04-22 16:05 Pour : krnet@mylist.net cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) Objet : KR> rivnut question Virg wrote- >Do not forget the NOTCH to keep the Rivnut from turning, Virg Aha! I saw that they offer both plain and "keyed" rivnuts. I guess the keyed ones take a notch. How is that notch made? I had figured on putting a dab of Locktite or epoxy on before I squeezed them, to keep them from turning. Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:26:38 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> rivnut question To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <016801c54747$4beadb20$5e0ca58c@net.tbe.com> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original OZ wrote: > The "real" rivnut tool isn't cheap and neither is the "simplified" > model, but there is a mandrel available such that you can install them > using your regular pop rivet puller. My question is, does a regular > pop rivet puller have enough backbone to pull a rivnut? Sound like Serge's tool will work fine, given his experience, but you do need to be careful. The project I just finished up (at work) required several hundred knurled rivnuts (which are less likely to spin), so we learned a lot about them in the fabrication process. Maybe Serge and I are talking two completely different kinds, so I can only speak to the ones we used, which came from McMaster Carr. We cheaped out and bought the "simplified model" ($170 or so), but I don't see a lot of difference between that and the $250 model. The problem with that is if you don't get it tight enough, the rivnut just spins, and you can't tighten up the bolt. If you squeeze it too tight, the threads get scrunched up and distort, and the bolt binds and the rivnut spins. You'd think after several hundred, you could get the feel of it, or get it adjusted correctly, but it never happened. Keep in mind that these guys are not just "Bubbas", they're well-trained experts who commonly fabricate space, defense, and nuclear hardware day-to-day. We eventually drilled every one of them out and welded custom made aluminum inserts into those holes, and have had no problems since. These were relatively large rivnuts (3/16", 1/4" and 3/8"), so it may be that the smaller stuff that we'd use on airplanes isn't as touchy, but I personally have deleted them from my fastening options list, next time I have something in a blind hole that needs threads. Some of these rivnuts were $4-5 each, but the bosses we welded in were made overnight for about thirty cents each on our CNC lathe, and were welded in place about as fast as you could use the rivnut installation tool, but that's not an option for most homebuilders... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 16:49:10 +0200 From: Serge VIDAL Subject: R?f. : Re: KR> rivnut question To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Mark, I guess we are talking about the same thing, but I think this is a design limitation. Rivnuts are not really suitable for high torque applications. I have used them for low torque applications, such as holding my wheel spats (M8 size), or fitting my GPS and radio on the instrument panel (M4 size). I plan to use them on inspection hatches too, and also for all the engine baffling., stuff like that Also, it is important to use the knurled part best suited to the material thickness and type: either knurled body or knurled flange. When I put them in composite, I generally use Epoxy, just in case. Serge "Mark Langford" Envoyé par : krnet-bounces@mylist.net 2005-04-22 16:26 Veuillez répondre à KRnet Remis le : 2005-04-22 16:27 Pour : "KRnet" cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) Objet : Re: KR> rivnut question OZ wrote: > The "real" rivnut tool isn't cheap and neither is the "simplified" model, > but there is a mandrel available such that you can install them using your > regular pop rivet puller. My question is, does a regular pop rivet puller > have enough backbone to pull a rivnut? Sound like Serge's tool will work fine, given his experience, but you do need to be careful. The project I just finished up (at work) required several hundred knurled rivnuts (which are less likely to spin), so we learned a lot about them in the fabrication process. Maybe Serge and I are talking two completely different kinds, so I can only speak to the ones we used, which came from McMaster Carr. We cheaped out and bought the "simplified model" ($170 or so), but I don't see a lot of difference between that and the $250 model. The problem with that is if you don't get it tight enough, the rivnut just spins, and you can't tighten up the bolt. If you squeeze it too tight, the threads get scrunched up and distort, and the bolt binds and the rivnut spins. You'd think after several hundred, you could get the feel of it, or get it adjusted correctly, but it never happened. Keep in mind that these guys are not just "Bubbas", they're well-trained experts who commonly fabricate space, defense, and nuclear hardware day-to-day. We eventually drilled every one of them out and welded custom made aluminum inserts into those holes, and have had no problems since. These were relatively large rivnuts (3/16", 1/4" and 3/8"), so it may be that the smaller stuff that we'd use on airplanes isn't as touchy, but I personally have deleted them from my fastening options list, next time I have something in a blind hole that needs threads. Some of these rivnuts were $4-5 each, but the bosses we welded in were made overnight for about thirty cents each on our CNC lathe, and were welded in place about as fast as you could use the rivnut installation tool, but that's not an option for most homebuilders... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 11:44:00 -0400 From: Ron Butterfield Subject: Re: KR> rivnut question To: KRnet Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.0.20050422112301.034101c0@pop.mebtel.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed At 10:26 AM 4/22/05, Mark L wrote: >The project I just finished up (at work) required several hundred >knurled >rivnuts (which are less likely to spin), so we >learned a lot about them in the fabrication process. ... The problem >with that is if you don't get it tight enough, the rivnut just spins, and >you can't tighten up the bolt. If you squeeze it too tight, the threads >get scrunched up and distort, and the >bolt binds and the rivnut spins. You'd think after several hundred, you >could get the feel of it, or get it adjusted correctly, but it never >happened... I'm really surprised at this, as it runs opposite to my experience over the last dozen or so years. Here's the tool I've been using: http://home.earthlink.net/~ronb_4/images/rivnut_tool.jpg It is the Nutsert brand; notice the knurled base of the mandrel to keep the nutsert from spinning in the hole (this is a 4mm tool). Here's a picture of the actual nutsert: http://home.earthlink.net/~ronb_4/images/rivnut.jpg (this is a 5mm insert). I've been purchasing my replacements from McMaster too. Here are some possibilities for our different experiences: I've generally been using small-ish sizes (M3-M6) I've also been using them in relatively thick materials (1/16" min) There are recommendations for different size holes for different material thicknesses: http://home.earthlink.net/~ronb_4/images/rivnut_sizes.jpg Regards, RonB ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 10:52:20 -0500 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: KR> FOR SALE - Air/Oil Separator To: "CorvAircraft \(E-mail\)" , "KR Net \(E-mail\)" Message-ID: <26D1C67793459F43BF8DA235F92B1F3549DA0F@tulsaexchange.tulsaokmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have an air oil separator that I am selling. I am offering it here to the list before I put it on eBay. I did not have room on my firewall for this unit and had to buy a smaller one. This is an aluminum used air/oil separator. The dimensions are: 5 1/2" tall x 3 1/2" diameter aluminum canister. There is one mounting tab at the top and one at the bottom. The inlet tube is 3/4 OD entering from the left side (facing the firewall), the overboard breather tube exits the bottom and is 5/8" OD. The return line exits the bottom and is an AN-8. The AN fitting can be changed if desired. I also have a mating return hose with fittings installed that goes with this unit. The breather tube on the bottom is attached with a 1 1/4" nut and is removable for cleaning the inside of the unit. Interested? Make me an offer. I will sell it to the highest offer. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI flykr2s@wi.rr.com ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 12:41:02 -0400 From: VIRGIL N SALISBURY Subject: Re: KR> rivnut question To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050422.124123.3744.3.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii The notch is formed in the rivenut as a ridge radially out from the center to the edge. It keeps the rivnut from turning at ANY time. But you must provide the notch for the ridge to set into. Drill the hole and file in the notch, Virg On Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:05:04 -0500 "Oscar Zuniga" writes: > Virg wrote- > > >Do not forget the NOTCH to keep the Rivnut from turning, Virg > > Aha! I saw that they offer both plain and "keyed" rivnuts. I guess > the > keyed ones take a notch. How is that notch made? I had figured on > putting > a dab of Locktite or epoxy on before I squeezed them, to keep them > from > turning. > > Oscar Zuniga > San Antonio, TX > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net > > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL www.lubedealer.com/salisbury Miami ,Fl ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 09:49:17 -0700 (PDT) From: William Jeffries Subject: Re: KR> rivnut question To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050422164918.37294.qmail@web90107.mail.scd.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Oscar, My recommendation is to go to the FBO and befriend a mechanic there and either have him show you how they work or have him install them for you. If you don't have many to install, it would be cheaper in the long run to have it done for you. Bill Jeffries __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 14:59:06 -0400 From: "Allen Wiesner " Subject: Re: KR> rivnut question To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001c01c5476d$5c4c9fa0$0d1cda42@CPQ69645694259> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Another possibility for the notch. Mark where you want the bigger hole for the Rivnut, then centerpunch for a second hole on the radius, (example, for a 3/16" Rivnut, the hole may be 1/4", so first mark and drill the hole for the notch [1/16" will probably do}1/8" out from the center, then drill the bigger hole and install the Rivnut. Another possibility on the tool is your local autobody repair shop, although they may not have the smaller sizes of pullers. Allen G. Wiesner KR-2SS/TD S/N 1118 65 Franklin Street Ansonia, CT 06401-1240 (203) 732-0508 flashyal@usadatanet.net ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 15:24:28 EDT From: Lyracw@wmconnect.com Subject: KR> (no subject) To: krnet@mylist.net (krnet) Message-ID: <129.5b98df58.2f9aa96c@wmconnect.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" I am interested in the 95% KR-2S and to get the same info as Robert L. Stone Thank You Caryl ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 15:59:27 EDT From: Tinyauto@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> rivnut question To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <205.19eff7.2f9ab19f@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" I don't think drilling the small hole first will work. If you do that, then drilling the big hole will make the large bit want to "walk" into the smaller hole. I go with the use of a file to make the notch. Bottom line...Whatever works. I posted an accident that happened 1 week ago today with a KR2 in Cameron, MO. Did anyone know the guy who was flying this KR? Minor injuries reported with an engine failure on short final. Aircraft destroyed. Anyone have a set of Corby Starlet plans for sale? Thanks! Kevin ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 15:07:56 -0500 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: RE: KR> KR Accident To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <26D1C67793459F43BF8DA235F92B1F3549DA15@tulsaexchange.tulsaokmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Kevin, I checked the FAA accident site and it is not listed there yet. Sometimes it takes several days to show up on the FAA site: http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/month.asp Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI -----Original Message----- I posted an accident that happened 1 week ago today with a KR2 in Cameron, MO. Did anyone know the guy who was flying this KR? Minor injuries reported with an engine failure on short final. Aircraft destroyed. Anyone have a set of Corby Starlet plans for sale? Thanks! Kevin _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 15:48:25 -0500 From: rhartwig11@juno.com Subject: KR> rivnut question To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050422.154826.2744.0.rhartwig11@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Oscar, I bought a "rivnut" tool kit at Menards. It comes with squeezing tool, 4 mandrels and "rivnuts" up to 1/4 inch. I am saving the "rivnuts" for non-aircraft use. The tool works very well with Nutserts or Rivnut brand. The whole kit was $8.95. Dick Hartwig rhartwig11@juno.com ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 16:51:30 EDT From: Tinyauto@aol.com Subject: Re: KR> KR Accident To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <1ad.3656827d.2f9abdd2@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Hey Mark, You are one of the guys I would like to meet. I really enjoy reading your posts on the net about your new plane. This is what I found on the FAA site as a preliminary finding. I simply cut and pasted it from the FAA site. If you use the registration #, the owner is easily found and lives in a small town just south of Cameron, MO. This area is part of my old stomping grounds, but I don't know this guy. I don't think I have seen any posts from him on this site either. Regis#: 316RP Make/Model: EXP Description: KR2 EXP Date: 04/14/2005 Time: 2303 Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Minor Mid Air: N Missing: N Damage: Destroyed LOCATION City: CAMERON State: MO Country: US DESCRIPTION ACFT ON APPROACH, ENGINE QUIT, STALLED, AND NOSED INTO THE DEPARTURE END OF THE RUNWAY, CAMERON, MO INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0 # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 1 Unk: # Pass: 0 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk: WEATHER: METAR KSTJ 142253Z 13005KT 10SM CLR 20/01 A3015 OTHER DATA Departed: CAMERON, MO Dep Date: Dep. Time: Destination: CAMERON, MO Flt Plan: Wx Briefing: Last Radio Cont: NONE Last Clearance: FAA FSDO: KANSAS CITY, MO (CE05) Entry date: 04/15/2005 I would like to know what happened. I have even considered calling the owner to see what he has to say. Maybe I should let the sting of aircraft loss go away before I do. It would have to be terrible to loose an aircraft after so much work has gone into it. Be safe Mark. Kevin. ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 16:19:59 -0500 From: "Oscar Zuniga" Subject: KR> posa carbs To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed Don wrote- >I gather they can be made to work >will give the posa another shot >am interested in feedback both pro and con Well, since it's Friday I guess it's OK to whip a dead horse a little. My only experience with the POSA is not first-hand really; it's with my friend Paul Martin's KR-2. He had a very stock KR-2 with a very stock 1835 VW and ran a POSA on it. Successfully, for (I believe) about 150 hrs. before he sold it. He was all set to fly it from southern Oregon to Oshkosh one year, but situations changed and he didn't do it, but he had that kind of confidence in the airplane and engine. Paul, like others who were able to make the POSA run, went through the "swinging a dead chicken while jumping on one foot" routine. It involves shaping the middle section of the needle to just the right contour to avoid a flat spot in the engine midrange. Usually it can be made to run OK at wide open throttle and at idle, but either stumbles, stalls, or runs rich at midrange. The secret involves tying down the airplane and running the engine at several different increments of throttle, killing the engine at a fixed RPM with everything stable, and reading the plugs and gauges (EGT, etc.) to see if it's rich or lean at that RPM, then either building up the needle (if it's too rich) or filing it down (if it's too lean). This is done at several settings and then the needle is sort of polished or smoothed out to take any 'steps' out of it. Then you run another round to make sure you got it right, or just go fly it and see if it works OK. I believe I've seen or heard something about filing a flat onto the needle too, but that just may be part of the lore that goes with this unit. I think the goosey part is when you're on short final at reduced power and see that you're going to be short and blip the throttle. You don't want it to stumble or quit right then ;o) If all else fails, I understand you can do one of two things (after opening a cold beer): (1) start swinging a dead chicken over your head while hopping on one foot, or (2) aim the unit for the nearest trash can. Some have done both; others have settled for the cold beer and forgot what they were doing to begin with. Happy Friday! Oscar Zuniga San Antonio, TX mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com website at http://www.flysquirrel.net ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 157 *************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================