From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 16 Date: 1/11/2005 4:30:44 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. new or old N number (Lee Van Dyke) 2. Gear leg junction (Glasseyegav) 3. Re: Gear leg junction (Mark Jones) 4. Re: Firewall (JIM VANCE) 5. Re: Firewall (larry flesner) 6. firewall mat'l (Don Chisholm) 7. Re: Firewall (VIRGIL N SALISBURY) 8. So Cal (rparker) 9. Re: So Cal (Jeff Scott) 10. Re: Firewall (Jack Cooper) 11. RE: So Cal (Steve Glover) 12. Re: Gear leg junction (Jim Morehead) 13. Control cables (Serge VIDAL) 14. RE: Control cables (Mark Jones) 15. Re: new or old N number (Kenneth B. Jones) 16. Control cables (larry flesner) 17. RE: Control cables (Mark Jones) 18. firewall materials (Don Chisholm) 19. Re: firewall materials (larry severson) 20. Re: firewall mat'l (VIRGIL N SALISBURY) 21. Re: Gear leg junction (Donald Reid) 22. Re: Control cables (Glasseyegav) 23. firewall (Don Chisholm) 24. Re: Gear leg junction (Dan Heath) 25. Re: Control cables (Jeff Scott) 26. Re: firewall materials (Richard Green) 27. RE: new or old N number (Jack Cooper) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 22:27:31 -0700 From: "Lee Van Dyke" Subject: KR> new or old N number To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000f01c4f79e$406857d0$7501a8c0@SNAKEBITE> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Netters, I have a question re: the registration of my KR2. As many of you know I have been refurbishing a 20 year old KR2. The original builder built it and flew a few hours on it. He sold it to another person who had it a year, did some work, and few it to about 45 hours. My dad bought it after that. He and I did some work on it but it sat dormant for 16 years. I bought it and have rebuilt several parts. Re-did the dash, re-built the 1835 vw, re-built almost the entire tail, sanded filled and repainted the entire plane. Now to the question, should I re-register under the same N number or try to get a new one with all the work that I have done. What is the groups feelings regarding the registration Lee Van Dyke Mesa AZ Lee@vandyke5.com ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 20:56:35 +1000 From: "Glasseyegav" Subject: KR> Gear leg junction To: "KR builders and pilots" Message-ID: <001d01c4f7cc$38242b20$0100000a@vic.bigpond.net.au> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" HI All, I've been glassing the underside of my wing stubs and the inside of my wing tanks today, wow that vinyl ester is awful to work with (sticky). I have a question about where my Diehl type gear legs enter the stub. I'll need to fair the legs in a bit, Do most make these fairings removable or are they normally glassed to the leg and the bottom skin of the stub and left as a permanent fixture?? It seems to me if I foam the junction up and glass it it'll be a permanent fix and I'll get a cleaner line, but I'm concerned that when the legs flex it may distort the bottom wing skin. I suppose the gear leg can be isolated from the fairing so the leg can have some movement and the fairing can be glassed to the bottom skin alone. Thoughts?????? Thanks Gavin ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 05:55:18 -0600 From: "Mark Jones" Subject: Re: KR> Gear leg junction To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001b01c4f7d4$721199a0$6401a8c0@wi.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" To get a really clean line, glass the fairing from the leg to the bottom of the wing skin. Once that is done, take a hack saw and cut just through the skin completely around the fairing. This separates the leg from the stub wing skin and allows for flexing so that you do not destroy the fairing. Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI USA E-mail me at flykr2s@wi.rr.com Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj/homepage.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glasseyegav" > It seems to me if I foam the junction up and glass it it'll be a > permanent fix and I'll get a cleaner line, but I'm concerned that when the legs flex it may distort the bottom wing skin. > I suppose the gear leg can be isolated from the fairing so the leg can have some movement and the fairing can be glassed to the bottom skin alone. ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 06:50:25 -0600 From: "JIM VANCE" Subject: Re: KR> Firewall To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <005f01c4f7dd$b4e731a0$0600a8c0@oemcomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" The stainless steel will work harden quickly when you drill using normal procedures. It can even melt the end of your drill bit on the second hole!! The trick is to run the drill as slowly as possible while maintaining as much force as you can without buckling the bit. Use Go Jo handcleaner for lubricant. The Go Jo will stick to the bit and keep it cool, instead of slinging off like most lubes. Jim Vance Vance@ClaflinWildcats.com ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > > My stainless sheet is already attached to the 1/4 inch firewall. > I need to drill holes. > Is there a drill bit that cuts thru the stainless? > > So far no joy. > > Louis Staalberg > Payson, Arizona > N9FL@cbiwireless.com > > ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 08:00:34 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> Firewall To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050111080034.007c8a30@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >I was covering my fire wall with the stainless steel and screwed it up >big >time. Does anyone know the thickness, etc., and what supplier has it The blue >prints doesn't tell me anything other then its stainless steel. >Patricia +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++= I seem to recall something like .016 on the stainless firewall but after seeing the post from Louis indicating .007 I could be off by a factor of 2X. Anyway, Wick's or A.S.& S. should carry it. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 09:14:38 -0500 (EST) From: Don Chisholm Subject: KR> firewall mat'l To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050111141438.35956.qmail@web88005.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii when I did the Firewall on my KR1 I used galvanised sheet metal from the local heating airconditioning shop I didn't like the thickness of the stainless steel sheet supplied by Rand Robinson. Make a pattern, you can probably get them to shear it to shape Don Chisholm ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 08:17:32 -0500 From: VIRGIL N SALISBURY Subject: Re: KR> Firewall To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050111.094524.2580.0.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Wicks, Virg On Mon, 10 Jan 2005 22:10:24 EST Cowgirl2fly@aol.com writes: > Greetings again > > I was covering my fire wall with the stainless steel and screwed it > up big > time. Does anyone know the thickness, etc., and what supplier has it > The blue > prints doesn't tell me anything other then its stainless steel. > > Thanks > Patricia > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL www.lubedealer.com/salisbury Miami ,Fl ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 11:00:32 -0500 From: "rparker" Subject: KR> So Cal To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050111160032.19816.qmail@server278.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" greetings from muddy California I seem to remember a few KR-pilots listing as being at Corona airport. I hope you got your planes out. If you are planning on landing at Corona Airport anytime soon make sure you strap your floats on and wear your hip boots. Rich Parker Peterborough, NH rparker@wwhotspots.com http://theparkers.wwhotspots.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 16:25:11 GMT From: "Jeff Scott" Subject: Re: KR> So Cal To: rparker@wwhotspots.com, krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050111.082608.28213.92339@webmail23.lax.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain It seems to me that Steve Glover and Richard Shirley are both based at Corona. Hope you guys got your planes moved to higher ground. The photo I saw on the web shows a bunch of hangers in the water. -Jeff -- "rparker" wrote: greetings from muddy California I seem to remember a few KR-pilots listing as being at Corona airport. I hope you got your planes out. If you are planning on landing at Corona Airport anytime soon make sure you strap your floats on and wear your hip boots. Rich Parker Peterborough, NH ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 11:32:08 -0500 From: "Jack Cooper" Subject: Re: KR> Firewall To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <410-22005121116328640@earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I had anticipated that it would be hard to drill through the stainless firewall. When I drilled for my motor mounts I had installed the fiberfax and stainless to the firewall and then clamped the false firewall to the real firewall. I marked the points to drill and was suprised to find how easy it was to drill through the stainless. I think having it clamped between wood helped the drill to punch through by not lettung the stainless to dimple. You may want to try this on a piece of scrap stainless. Jack Cooper > [Original Message] > From: Louis Staalberg > To: KRnet > Date: 1/10/2005 10:15:51 PM > Subject: Re: KR> Firewall > > Patricia and others. > My stainless sheet is 0.007 inches thick. > It is or was on the parts catalog from RR. > > Now my question to the list: > > My stainless sheet is already attached to the 1/4 inch > firewall. > I need to drill holes. > Is there a drill bit that cuts thru the stainless? > > So far no joy. > > Louis Staalberg > Payson, Arizona > N9FL@cbiwireless.com > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 08:44:06 -0800 From: "Steve Glover" Subject: RE: KR> So Cal To: "KRnet" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" We moved once to the far end of the airport. Most stuff in the hangars are a complete loss. The water level wasn't supposed to get as high as it is, and it is still rising. We are leaving in a few to try and fly out on what is left of the runway. Rich Seifert is also based at Corona. I don't know that I'll have that Corvair in by the Gathering now... -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Jeff Scott Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 8:25 AM To: rparker@wwhotspots.com; krnet@mylist.net Subject: Re: KR> So Cal It seems to me that Steve Glover and Richard Shirley are both based at Corona. Hope you guys got your planes moved to higher ground. The photo I saw on the web shows a bunch of hangers in the water. -Jeff -- "rparker" wrote: greetings from muddy California I seem to remember a few KR-pilots listing as being at Corona airport. I hope you got your planes out. If you are planning on landing at Corona Airport anytime soon make sure you strap your floats on and wear your hip boots. Rich Parker Peterborough, NH _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 08:43:44 -0800 From: Jim Morehead Subject: Re: KR> Gear leg junction To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Gavin, I faired in my gear legs by covering the gear leg and the wing area with clear packing tape. Then hot glued foam and sanded it to shape. Covered the foam with two layers of glass. Two days later I worked the faring loose and slid it down the gear leg and removed the foam from the inside. Slid the fairing back into place and glassed it to the wing only. It fits tight to the gear leg but is not glassed to the leg. If and when the leg flexes it is free to flex and hopefully will not break anything. Jim Morehead Cameron Park, CA Working on instrument panel and canopy on 1/11/05 2:56 AM, Glasseyegav at gdonohoe@bigpond.net.au wrote: > HI All, > I've been glassing the underside of my wing stubs and the inside of my wing > tanks today, wow that vinyl ester is awful to work with (sticky). > I have a question about where my Diehl type gear legs enter the stub. I'll > need to fair the legs in a bit, Do most make these fairings removable or are > they normally glassed to the leg and the bottom skin of the stub and left as a > permanent fixture?? > It seems to me if I foam the junction up and glass it it'll be a permanent fix > and I'll get a cleaner line, but I'm concerned that when the legs flex it may > distort the bottom wing skin. > I suppose the gear leg can be isolated from the fairing so the leg can have > some movement and the fairing can be glassed to the bottom skin alone. > > Thoughts?????? > > Thanks > Gavin > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 19:00:37 +0100 From: "Serge VIDAL" Subject: KR> Control cables To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am going to replace some control cables (and possibly all of them) in my KR2. The reason is I have damaged one of them while removing the WAFs. Now, the current cables are stainless steel, 2mm diameter (that is 0.07 inch), and I suspect the local airworthiness authorities are not going to like that cable size. So, I checked the literature about control cables. Could not find anything in the construction manual, so I checked Tony Bingelis. He says standard size for all control cables, no matter for which aircraft they are, are 3.2mm (1/8"). Now, that is a surprise. I thought the cable size would be adjusted to the aircraft specifics somehow. So, should I go for 1/8", then? Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC Paris, France ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 12:14:24 -0600 From: Mark Jones Subject: RE: KR> Control cables To: 'KRnet' Message-ID: <370D915E4564D611B0530050DABB9FC2025ED193@SIC-EXCHANGE> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Yes, 1/8" x 7 x 19. -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Serge VIDAL Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 12:01 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Control cables I am going to replace some control cables (and possibly all of them) in my KR2. The reason is I have damaged one of them while removing the WAFs. Now, the current cables are stainless steel, 2mm diameter (that is 0.07 inch), and I suspect the local airworthiness authorities are not going to like that cable size. So, I checked the literature about control cables. Could not find anything in the construction manual, so I checked Tony Bingelis. He says standard size for all control cables, no matter for which aircraft they are, are 3.2mm (1/8"). Now, that is a surprise. I thought the cable size would be adjusted to the aircraft specifics somehow. So, should I go for 1/8", then? Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC Paris, France _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 13:13:16 -0500 From: "Kenneth B. Jones" Subject: Re: KR> new or old N number To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <005501c4f809$39a400a0$8d7ba8c0@oemcomputer> Based on your message, it sounds like this aircraft already has an airwortiness certificate. The only thing that getting a new N number would do is change the N number. If you want a particular number, now would be a good time to change it. The decision is yours. Ken Jones, kenbjones@cinci.rr.com Sharonville, OH N5834, aka The Porkopolis Flying Pig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Van Dyke" Subject: KR> new or old N number > Now to the question, should I re-register under the same N number or try > to get a new one with all the work that I have done. What is the groups > feelings regarding the registration ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 12:12:43 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: KR> Control cables To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050111121243.0080f660@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >So, I checked the literature about control cables. Could not find anything >in the construction manual, so I checked Tony Bingelis. He says standard >size for all control cables, no matter for which aircraft they are, are >3.2mm (1/8"). Now, that is a surprise. I thought the cable size would be >adjusted to the aircraft specifics somehow. >Serge Vidal +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Without checking the plans, (I don't know where I put them) I seem to recall the cable size to be 3/32". I'm sure that's what mine are and seem to work just fine (116.3 hours and counting!!!!!!!) 1/8" would seem to be overkill for the KR, not to mention the extra weight. Somewhere in my grey matter I seem to recall that the 3/32" is rated for approx 250 or 300 pounds load. I don't think I could apply that much force if the control surfaces were locked up!! I probably got that rating from one of the Tony Bingelis books. Any builder should own at least the first three of his books if not all four. Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 12:25:40 -0600 From: Mark Jones Subject: RE: KR> Control cables To: 'KRnet' Message-ID: <370D915E4564D611B0530050DABB9FC2025ED194@SIC-EXCHANGE> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Disregard my previous post. I think Larry is correct in 3/32". Just be sure you use 7x19 strand. -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces+mjones=muellersales.com@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+mjones=muellersales.com@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Mark Jones Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 12:14 PM To: 'KRnet' Subject: RE: KR> Control cables Yes, 1/8" x 7 x 19. -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces@mylist.net]On Behalf Of Serge VIDAL Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 12:01 PM To: KRnet Subject: KR> Control cables I am going to replace some control cables (and possibly all of them) in my KR2. The reason is I have damaged one of them while removing the WAFs. Now, the current cables are stainless steel, 2mm diameter (that is 0.07 inch), and I suspect the local airworthiness authorities are not going to like that cable size. So, I checked the literature about control cables. Could not find anything in the construction manual, so I checked Tony Bingelis. He says standard size for all control cables, no matter for which aircraft they are, are 3.2mm (1/8"). Now, that is a surprise. I thought the cable size would be adjusted to the aircraft specifics somehow. So, should I go for 1/8", then? Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC Paris, France _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 14:13:37 -0500 (EST) From: Don Chisholm Subject: KR> firewall materials To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050111191337.22067.qmail@web88003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Ithink that if ever things got that hot that the fumes given off past a sealed firewall bulkhead would be the least of your problems.Yes I have welded it, it has to be at fusion temperatures to give off fumes Don Chisholm ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 11:40:37 -0800 From: larry severson Subject: Re: KR> firewall materials To: KRnet Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20050111113727.02134a58@pop-server.socal.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 02:13 PM 1/11/2005 -0500, you wrote: >Ithink that if ever things got that hot that the >fumes given off past a sealed firewall bulkhead >would be the least of your problems.Yes I have >welded it, it has to be at fusion temperatures >to give off fumes >Don Chisholm About a year ago someone talked about Contego intumescent paints and fire walls. I tested it on plywood with a burnsite torch held at a 2 inch distance. After 5 minutes, the wood was blackened, NOT burned. It works, is cheap, and a perfect addition to the thin .005 stainless steel the RR recommends for the KR2. It is on mine. Larry Severson Fountain Valley, CA 92708 (714) 968-9852 larry2@socal.rr.com ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 14:47:46 -0500 From: VIRGIL N SALISBURY Subject: Re: KR> firewall mat'l To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050111.144746.2580.1.virgnvs@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Do not forget the Fibrefrax, Virg On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 09:14:38 -0500 (EST) Don Chisholm writes: > when I did the Firewall on my KR1 I used galvanised > sheet metal from the local heating airconditioning shop > I didn't like the thickness of the stainless steel sheet > supplied by Rand Robinson. Make a pattern, you can > probably get them to shear it to shape > Don Chisholm > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL www.lubedealer.com/salisbury Miami ,Fl ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 15:10:31 -0500 From: Donald Reid Subject: Re: KR> Gear leg junction To: KRnet Message-ID: <6.1.0.6.2.20050111150424.01b02680@mail.peoplepc.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 05:56 AM 1/11/2005, you wrote: >HI All, >I've been glassing the underside of my wing stubs and the inside of my >wing tanks today, wow that vinyl ester is awful to work with (sticky). >I have a question about where my Diehl type gear legs enter the stub. I'll >need to fair the legs in a bit, Do most make these fairings removable or >are they normally glassed to the leg and the bottom skin of the stub and >left as a permanent fixture?? My gear legs is similar to the Diehl and I made the fairings semi-removable. I put a layer of duct tape on the wing and gear leg, then added foam and modeling clay to shape. This was covered with three-four plys of glass. After it cured, I cut the fairing along the trailing edge and removed it. After it was trimmed to shape I "glued" it back on with bath tub caulk. Then I used dry micro to blend the fairing in to the wing and gear surface. I left a joint line between the fairing and the dry micro so that it will not damage the paint if I have to remove it later. The duct tape leaves a small gap around the leg and the glass can flex and not crack. Don Reid - donreid "at" peoplepc.com Bumpass, Va Visit my web sites at: AeroFoil, a 2-D Airfoil Design And Analysis Computer Program: http://aerofoilengineering.com KR2XL construction: http://aerofoilengineering.com/KR/KR2XL.htm Aviation Surplus: http://aerofoilengineering.com/PartsListing/Airparts.htm EAA Chapter 231: http://eaa231.org Ultralights: http://usua250.org VA EAA State Fly-in: http://vaeaa.org ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2005 07:34:18 +1000 From: "Glasseyegav" Subject: Re: KR> Control cables To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002e01c4f825$4e308ea0$0100000a@vic.bigpond.net.au> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Here in Australia at a remote airport which is very significant as being the birthplace of QANTAS airlines, there is an early model Boeing 747 on a permanent static display!! This aircraft is complete and ready to fly, it still had a couple of thousand hours to run when it was parked, all it needs is fuel. The interesting thing is, the runway was just long enough to land the 747, but in reality it'll never be able to take off again as the runway is too short. Anyway my point is I did a very detailed 2 hour guided tour of this aircraft where I got to see almost everything about it, and I was very surprised to see that all of the control cables are still only 1/8" even over such long lengths as were present there. Gavin > > So, should I go for 1/8", then? > ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 16:36:37 -0500 (EST) From: Don Chisholm Subject: KR> firewall To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050111213637.47597.qmail@web88003.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii just to stir the pot a bit more on the subject of firewall mat'ls check out page 12 sonerai construction manual just about every steel tube and fabric airplane that I have encountered uses galvanized sheet for firewall material. studying other designs can only make your airplane better, each design has it's own kind of ingenuity Don Chisholm ------------------------------ Message: 24 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 16:42:14 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Gear leg junction To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41E44836.000005.02864@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Is it really necessary to have clearance between the fairing and the wing? I have ours glassed to the wing with a clearance around the leg. In fact, I would like to have had more clearance around the leg, but I am hoping this will do. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering Once that is done, take a hack saw and cut just through the skin completely around the fairing. This separates the leg from the stub wing skin and allows for flexing so that you do not destroy the fairing. ------------------------------ Message: 25 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 22:29:19 GMT From: "Jeff Scott" Subject: Re: KR> Control cables To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050111.142958.26397.99382@webmail13.lax.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain Cable size in mine is 3/32. Rated strength of 3/32" 7x19 cable is 920# vs 1760# for 1/8" 7x19 stainless cable. 3/32" cable should be sufficient for the KR unless your cable is routed through an area that may cause significant chafing. -Jeff -- larry flesner wrote: >So, I checked the literature about control cables. Could not find anything >in the construction manual, so I checked Tony Bingelis. He says standard >size for all control cables, no matter for which aircraft they are, are >3.2mm (1/8"). Now, that is a surprise. I thought the cable size would be >adjusted to the aircraft specifics somehow. >Serge Vidal +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------ Message: 26 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 15:32:29 -0800 (PST) From: Richard Green Subject: Re: KR> firewall materials To: KRnet Message-ID: <20050111233229.23731.qmail@web81604.mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii OK, sounds good to me, I hope none of us ever have a fire to worry about testing them... Appears you were ahead of the game on it. RG Don Chisholm wrote: Ithink that if ever things got that hot that the fumes given off past a sealed firewall bulkhead would be the least of your problems.Yes I have welded it, it has to be at fusion temperatures to give off fumes Don Chisholm _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 27 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 19:30:33 -0500 From: "Jack Cooper" Subject: RE: KR> new or old N number To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <410-22005131203033343@earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Lee Do you know if the airplane is still registered? They are sometimes de-registered if they are not going to fly for extended periods. Click on http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/NNum_inquiry.htm To check the N# to see if it is still registered. If so it is probably registered in your fathers name and you would probably want to transfer the registration to your name as the current owner. Jack Cooper kr2cooper@earthlink.net > [Original Message] > From: Lee Van Dyke > To: KRnet > Date: 1/11/2005 12:28:54 AM > Subject: KR> new or old N number > > Netters, > > I have a question re: the registration of my KR2. As many of you know I have been refurbishing a 20 year old KR2. The original builder built it and flew a few hours on it. He sold it to another person who had it a year, did some work, and few it to about 45 hours. My dad bought it after that. He and I did some work on it but it sat dormant for 16 years. I bought it and have rebuilt several parts. Re-did the dash, re-built the 1835 vw, re-built almost the entire tail, sanded filled and repainted the entire plane. > > Now to the question, should I re-register under the same N number or try to get a new one with all the work that I have done. What is the groups feelings regarding the registration > > > > Lee Van Dyke > Mesa AZ > Lee@vandyke5.com > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 16 ************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================