From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 21 Date: 1/15/2005 8:59:02 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Canopy questions. (Dean Cooper) 2. Re: Canopy questions. (Jim Morehead) 3. Re: Canopy questions. (Orma) 4. Unclear answers on Canopy Questions (Dan Heath) 5. Canopy questions. (larry flesner) 6. Canopy Questions (larry flesner) 7. I installed my windshield and canopy glass by first "gluing" them in place with an epoxy/flox mix. (Dan Heath) 8. Re: Canopy questions. (Mark Langford) 9. Re: I installed my windshield and canopy glass by first "gluing"them in place with an epoxy/flox mix. (larry flesner) 10. Re: R?f. : RE: KR> firewall materials (Bill Page) 11. Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube (Serge VIDAL) 12. Re: Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube (Seibert Family) 13. Re: Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube (Mark Langford) 14. Re: Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube (Mark Langford) 15. R?f. : Re: KR> Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube (Serge VIDAL) 16. Re: Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube (Dan Heath) 17. and no tapes on the inside - Installing Canopy Windows (Dan Heath) 18. - Aluminum extruded tube (larry flesner) 19. More Charging Power Needed (Dan Heath) 20. van kr (Don Chisholm) 21. Re: More Charging Power Needed (Orma) 22. carb heat/air box stuff (Mark Langford) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 00:44:21 -0500 From: "Dean Cooper" Subject: Re: KR> Canopy questions. To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <00e001c4fac5$43b34560$0502a8c0@office> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Jim wrote: > RE: How do you keep the tape from having a shaggy edge with out > sanding into > the plastic canopy? Dan wrote: > I like to do the last process again, with no filler, to get as fine a > fairing to the canopy as possible. Jim, I'm in about the same stage you are. I'll tell you, I've seen Dan's canopy and the steps he laid out work very well. Also, the BID fiberglass tape has a woven edge so that is what keeps the glass from unwraveling. One last thing, I'll pass along Dan's advice to me, "be patient with your sanding" to avoid damaging the canopy. It's extremely tedious as you go around the edge of the canopy. Good luck. ps. Post some pictures if you can. Dean Cooper Jacksonville, FL Email me at dean_cooper@bellsouth.net See my KR project at www.geocities.com/djramccoop1/KR2_Home.html ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 22:52:04 -0800 From: Jim Morehead Subject: Re: KR> Canopy questions. To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Dan, Good to hear from you again. I have a couple of questions on your replys. 1. First give yourself only as much canopy edge as you need to secure it and then put on your fiberglass tapes as neatly as possible, using the plastic backing method. Then after that cures, take off the vinyl tapes and re-tape it about 1/8 of an inch deeper into the canopy. Do you lay on both layers of tape, sand then micro? 2. After I have put on the filler and sanded, I like to do the last process again, with no filler, to get as fine a fairing to the canopy as possible. Is this just a resin coat? Doesn't that make it harder to sand? One more question. Did you use the 2" BID tape that the plan book talks about? The only 2" tape listed in the Aircraft Spruce catalog on page 32 of called "Standard E-Glass and Fiberglass Tapes" It doesen't say it is BID. It comes in a 50 yd roll, boy that sure should be enough. Habe a good three day weekend, if you get Monday off. Looking forward to seeing your KR at Mt. Vernon this year. Jim on 1/14/05 7:12 PM, Dan Heath at DanRH@AllTel.net wrote: > RE: How do you keep the tape from having a shaggy edge with out > sanding into the plastic canopy? > > > > The other caller was absolutely correct. Do not use masking tape. > Electrical or vinyl painting tape is what you need to use. The way to > get around the problem you ask about is to do it in two steps. First > give yourself only as much canopy edge as you need to secure it and > then put on your fiberglass tapes as neatly as possible, using the > plastic backing method. Then after that cures, take off the vinyl > tapes and re-tape it about 1/8 of an inch deeper into the canopy. Now > you sand untill smooth at the edge of the fiberglass and apply your > filler. After I have put on the filler and sanded, I like to do the > last process again, with no filler, to get as fine a fairing to the > canopy as possible. Now you are ready to paint right up to that tape. > The last sanding should be with the grit that you would use just > before painting. > > See masking tip at: http://kr-builder.org/Tips/index.html > > See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics > > There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for > building has expired. > > Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC > > See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 06:21:38 -0500 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> Canopy questions. To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000b01c4faf4$622bac10$0202a8c0@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Hello Jim It's been a while since I've had to work with my canopy, but I remember that after peeling back the protective covering and placing tape on the canopy, I very lightly sanded the canopy plastic that was to be bonded to the fiberglass. This was to ensure that the resin would stick forever to the canopy plastic. Another tip is that if the cloth or resin goes over the tape line, after the resin starts to set, but before it is hard plastic, it will trim with a razor very neatly. I always trim all my fiberglass lay-ups in this manner, because it is a lot easier at this point then after it is fully hardened. Take care not to try to trim too early, while the lay-up can still be lifted from the surface it is bonding to. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 07:14:02 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: KR> Unclear answers on Canopy Questions To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41E9090A.000009.00504@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" See below See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering -------Original Message------- I have a couple of questions on your reply's. 1. First give yourself only as much canopy edge as you need to secure it and then put on your fiberglass tapes as neatly as possible, using the plastic backing method. Then after that cures, take off the vinyl tapes and re-tape it about 1/8 of an inch deeper into the canopy. Do you lay on both layers of tape, sand then micro? Yes, and if you use the "plastic backing" method, you will not have to be too concerned about trimming the edges. I cut the fiberglass tapes on the bid to avoid raveling. Lay them on a sheet of plastic, 3 mil clear works good. This clear sheet will have been prepared ahead of time with a drawing of exactly what you want the fiberglass tapes to be like. You will turn them over before laying on the fiberglass. Use a wider cut of fiberglass, so you will have some to trim off and make a neat edge. Apply the resin, wet out and squeegee out, being careful not to mess up the tapes too bad. Cut the result with a "pizza" cutter that you can find in the cloth section of your local Wal Mart. If you want to be really neat about it you can even sandwich the fiberglass in clear plastic before cutting it, but I think you get a cleaner cut of the fiberglas if you do it the less neat way. Put the glass tapes on the sanded area of the canopy after wetting that area of the canopy with a light coat of resin. You do that with one of the little throw away 1" brushes. Then peel off the clear plastic. Oh, and, I think that "heavy", rough ( 40/50 ) grit, sanding of the canopy is required. This stuff does not like the resin too much. 2. After I have put on the filler and sanded, I like to do the last process again, with no filler, to get as fine a fairing to the canopy as possible. Is this just a resin coat? Doesn't that make it harder to sand? Actually, I use Super Fil instead of micro, but what filler you use should make little difference. So, you have put on the filler and sanded to the vinyl tape of the second taping. You have gotten it as clean as you can, sanding to the vinyl tape. The thing is, that vinyl tape has a thickness and you will now want to get rid of that thin edge that may still be butt up against that vinyl tape. So, you remove that tape. Now you tape again using your "painting" tape. This is the best vinyl tape that you can get from the paint store. It is made specifically for painting fine edges. This tape is put on about 1/8" further into the canopy, from where the last tape was. You don't put anything else on it. Now you sand, using the grit that you will use just before painting. For me it is 220 and then 400. This fine grit will not harm the vinyl tape and it will cut off the edge of the filler that was left by the last tape and it will prepare the area of the bare canopy ( 1/8" ) for paint. Now you have an absolutely smooth fairing from the fiberglass to the surface of the canopy and the only edge that you will have when you are finished is that of the paint and I know of no way to avoid that. Now, you know that you are going to have to match the pattern of all this, on the other side. That is how you hide all the ugliness of this, showing thru the canopy to the other side. One more question. Did you use the 2" BID tape that the plan book talks about? I use whatever I am using. It could have been the RR cloth or the Rutan cloth. The RR cloth is a little lighter. Use whatever you have been building you plane with. I don't buy special tapes. I make them as described above. PS: I owe all I know about this method of making tapes to Mark Langford. I learned about it at the gathering at Pine Bluff, which was just after I started working on this plane. I was sitting there, doing nothing and they announced a forum on working with fiberglass. I thought, "I don't need that, after all, I have already built one KR, what could I learn". Well, "I don't have anything else to do, so I might as well listen in". I learned more about working with fiberglass than I ever knew, in that one session. My advise to all of those who have not been, GO TO THE GATHERING. ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 06:45:04 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: KR> Canopy questions. To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050115064504.007ff8f0@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > I¹m ready to glass in my canopy to the canopy frame. Which tape do you recommend? Then is says to run two 2 inch BID >tapes around the canopy inside and out. How do you keep the tape from >having a shaggy edge with out sanding into the plastic canopy? Jim >Morehead ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Go with the electrical tape for sure. By stretching it just a bit while applying you can even keep a very nice line around curves. It will also be less of a mess to remove. I installed my windshield and canopy glass by first "gluing" them in place with an epoxy/flox mix. When that cured, I filled the edge voids with more epoxy/flox for additional strength and to insure I had a surface free of voids to lay the tapes on. For a straight edge on the canopy edges use the glass tape that comes in a roll from AS&S or Wicks. I hate these tapes for their ability to wet out with the resin but they make getting a straight edge on the windshield/canopy (or anywhere else for that matter) without messing up the plastic much easier. These tapes have one edge that is very tight and straight and the other edge is a bit more loose. Wet the glass tape with resin and place the good edge against the line made by the electrical tape using the brush to "push" the tape to position it. Don't get concerned about how bad the other edge of the tape looks for now. You will sand / fill / feather that later. Just get the edge along the electrical tape the way you want it and let it cure. Add some additional protection to the windshield/canopy when you start to sand / fill / finish the fiberglass or you will leave some scratches , no matter how careful you are. Don't ask me how I know. These same tapes, I used 2", are good for making your flexable engine baffles also. Place a length of tape on some plastic, squeege on some high temp RTV, add another tape, repeat. I used four layers of tape to make mine. When finished they look exactly like the ones you order for $5 a foot and you can build them for $1 a foot in materials. I used approx 24 feet to baffle my engine so you can see the savings adds up in a hurry. Good luck......... Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 06:59:11 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: KR> Canopy Questions To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050115065911.0079a9e0@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The method I described in my earlier post will not give you a "feathered" edge to the glass like Dan Heath describes using his method but it will be a straight edge that looks just fine and would appear to be a lot less challenging to apply. The small edge ( .030 ? ) my method leaves doesn't appear to slow the airplane down at all !! :-) Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 08:26:08 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: KR> I installed my windshield and canopy glass by first "gluing" them in place with an epoxy/flox mix. To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41E919F0.000001.03340@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Larry, I forgot to mention that. I think that is the most important part to making sure your windows are secure. In fact, if you can inset your windows a little to allow for an overlap of resin flox, that is the best way to insure that they will not come out. If you have a groove deeper than the window thickness, you might want to first build some little stops out of flox. I have some pics somewhere, but cannot locate them right now. Let them cure and then measure to the exact depth that you want your window to sink into the groove. I used a little piece of the window material that I had to remove for fitting. You can lop off little bits of the stops with your dremmel until the window will sit exactly where you want it. Then when you fill that area with flox and clamp it down, you won't have to be concerned about squeezing out all the flox and getting your window too far into the groove. I hope that is more clear than mud. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 07:46:30 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Canopy questions. To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001d01c4fb08$9e4552f0$2802a8c0@2600xp> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Several people mentioned the "selvage" edge of the fiberglass tapes. Notice that the "straight" edge has extra thread in it, and therefore sticks up higher than the rest of the tape, leaving a noticeable ridge. I always try to put that edge on the side that's either doesn't matter if it sticks up, or is easiest to sand away. As for part number, see http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=298/index.html . I've been through several rolls of this stuff of all different widths, because it's strong (the equivalent of 9 ounce glass), and so convenient to roll a little off, wet it out, and stick it in place. The plastic method that Dan talked about works great too, and even allows you to stagger the thinner 5 oz. glass into a taper that requires almost no sanding. For you guys that have never tried the "plastic layup" method, you don't know what you're missing. I learned it from the folks at Task Research when I was working on the Lionheart project. I've done my whole plane that way. For big stuff like wings, it gives you the ability to get it all layed up a lot faster than dorking around trying to get everything in the right place, and with the weave still straight. You can see me using the tapes and plastic layup at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/owings.html . The plastic I use is just 4 mil "construction plastic" from Home Depot. Unfortunately it's 10' wide folded into a 3" roll, so if you can find some without folds, it's even easier to work with. Maybe that's what Dan has with his 3 mil stuff. I've been known to iron mine flat for critical jobs. I noticed that some of those pictures from the outer wings are from 1998. I was probably thinking I was close to flying then! I know there are those of you that are wondering what my problem is with flying my plane. The truth is that I simply haven't had time to do much more than walk by it and wish I had time to work on it. It's been one thing after another lately, mostly traveling on business (including weekends) or working 12 hour days. With some people, building the airplane is number one priority, but I just haven't had the time lately. One thing about work lately though is it DOES involve building an airplane, as well as engines! I guess I'll finish my plane when I finish it. I am at home this weekend, so maybe I'll get something done. I have a little Champ time scheduled for tomorrow to keep the rust away... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see homebuilt airplane at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 08:14:34 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: Re: KR> I installed my windshield and canopy glass by first "gluing"them in place with an epoxy/flox mix. To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050115081434.00802100@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >If you have a groove deeper than the window thickness, you might want >to first build some little stops out of flox. Daniel R. Heath - >Columbia, SC +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I went the other direction. I used a small strip of scrap ply (1/8" by approx 2" by whaterver length) and screwed it to the area next to the canopy after setting the window in a flox/epoxy bed. Tape the back side of the ply so any "ooz of epoxy" doesn't stick it to the airframe. I forced the window out against the ply from the inside and that kept the glass on an even surface with the skin. I later carefully filled any voids on the inside also and finished the flox/epoxy fill to a smooth surface while still wet. I used two tapes on the outside, the epoxy flox mix to glue the windows in place and no tapes on the inside, just filling and finishing the inside with epoxy/flox. As you mentioned, sand the edges of the plex-o-glass for better bonding. The method I used has held my glass in place up to 185 mph indicated so it must be sufficent ! :-) Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 08:58:06 -0600 From: "Bill Page" Subject: Re: R?f. : RE: KR> firewall materials To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <002e01c4fb12$bccb4e00$409789d0@youryk5cbmeeo8> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" My firewall has a layer of cermaic glass just under the stainless steel sheet on which the engine mount is attached. Bill Page bpage@netdoor.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "larry severson" To: "KRnet" Sent: Friday, January 14, 2005 10:13 AM Subject: Re: Réf. : RE: KR> firewall materials > At 09:57 AM 1/14/2005 +0100, you wrote: > >Now, guys, you do what you want, but personally, I won't want to have > >anything to do with asbestos. I would rather die from an engine fire > >than from a nasty, lengthy lung cancer! > > > >This being said, I don't have to die from an engine fire, since there > >are replacement materials, ceramics based, that do the job better, > >are lighter. But not cheaper, though. > > 2 coats of Contego "fire proof" paint will do the job without the > replacement material, but I used both. www.contegointernational.com/ > > > Larry Severson > Fountain Valley, CA 92708 > (714) 968-9852 > larry2@socal.rr.com > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 16:53:45 +0100 From: "Serge VIDAL" Subject: KR> Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Netters, I am trying to help a French builder who needs an aluminium tube to make the aileron bell crank. The drawing calls for .125 wall, 1" x 2". We wanted to ordr it from Aircraft Spruce, but if I am not mistaken, they stock only square tubing. Any suggestions? Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC Paris, France ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 11:03:59 -0500 From: Seibert Family Subject: Re: KR> Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube To: KRnet Message-ID: <41E93EEF.1010800@ptd.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Serge Try www.mcmaster.com They have what you want in 6063 Al. Carroll Seibert Serge VIDAL wrote: >Netters, > >I am trying to help a French builder who needs an aluminium tube to >make >the aileron bell crank. The drawing calls for .125 wall, 1" x 2". We >wanted to ordr it from Aircraft Spruce, but if I am not mistaken, they >stock only square tubing. > >Any suggestions? > >Serge Vidal >KR2 ZS-WEC >Paris, France >_______________________________________ >Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net >please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > > > ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 10:15:10 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <042d01c4fb1d$660ce140$1202a8c0@1700xp> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Carroll Seibert wrote: > Try www.mcmaster.com They have what you want in 6063 Al. But 6063 is only a little better than half as strong as 6061. If your plans call for 6061, you either better stick to it or make it thicker (and heavier). Wicks Aircraft at www.wicksaircraft.com sells 1x2x.125 6061-T6 like what he's looking for... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net -------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 10:16:36 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <043101c4fb1d$9662d7a0$1202a8c0@1700xp> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" see http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1856/index.html for source Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net -------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 18:15:36 +0100 From: "Serge VIDAL" Subject: R?f. : Re: KR> Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube To: KRnet Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks, Carroll, but that won't do. I am not going to make an order from the US to Europe for a single piece of aluminum, otherwise it will be one of the most expensive pieces of aluminium ever! Serge Seibert Family Envoyé par : krnet-bounces@mylist.net 2005-01-15 17:03 Veuillez répondre à KRnet Remis le : 2005-01-15 17:04 Pour : KRnet cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM) Objet : Re: KR> Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube Serge Try www.mcmaster.com They have what you want in 6063 Al. Carroll Seibert Serge VIDAL wrote: >Netters, > >I am trying to help a French builder who needs an aluminium tube to >make >the aileron bell crank. The drawing calls for .125 wall, 1" x 2". We >wanted to ordr it from Aircraft Spruce, but if I am not mistaken, they >stock only square tubing. > >Any suggestions? > >Serge Vidal >KR2 ZS-WEC >Paris, France >_______________________________________ >Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net >please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > > > > _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:18:16 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41E96C78.000003.03552@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have purchased quite a bit of aluminum tubing from both AS and Wicks. Look in the on-line catalog. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering -------Original Message------- From: KRnet Date: 01/15/05 10:54:32 To: krnet@mylist.net Subject: KR> Aileron bell crank - Aluminum extruded tube Netters, I am trying to help a French builder who needs an aluminium tube to make the aileron bell crank. The drawing calls for .125 wall, 1" x 2". We wanted to ordr it from Aircraft Spruce, but if I am not mistaken, they stock only square tubing. Any suggestions? Serge Vidal KR2 ZS-WEC Paris, France _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html . ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:25:33 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: KR> and no tapes on the inside - Installing Canopy Windows To: "krnet@mylist.net" Message-ID: <41E96E2D.000005.03552@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I also did not use any tapes on the inside. I filled the gaps with flox and from there it was all Super Fil. I did use the same method of taping and sanding the Super Fil then taping further into the window and sanding to smooth before painting. But so far, mine has only been up to about 1/4 MPH. See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 14:41:08 -0600 From: larry flesner Subject: KR> - Aluminum extruded tube To: KRnet Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20050115144108.00809100@pop.midwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >I have purchased quite a bit of aluminum tubing from both AS and Wicks. >Look in the on-line catalog. >Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Doesn't Wick's have an outlet in Europe somewhere that they would / could ship from and make the purchase less expensive? Larry Flesner ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 18:39:51 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: KR> More Charging Power Needed To: "krnet@mylist.net" Cc: Dan Diehl Message-ID: <41E9A9C7.000008.02728@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Not for me, but for someone who is not on the net. Have a Diehl case and also have a GM 40 Amp Alternator. How can this alternator be mounted to a GPASC force 1 hub VW engine? See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 19:11:07 -0500 (EST) From: Don Chisholm Subject: KR> van kr To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050116001107.65063.qmail@web88010.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Joe; I don't think it matters how fast it is just so long as it's well built. It's still faster and cheaper than a rental airplane. take some pictures and let me have a look I'm curious what 3800 bucks gets email me chizmsupholstery@rogers.com Don Chisholm ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 20:28:29 -0500 From: "Orma" Subject: Re: KR> More Charging Power Needed To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <001c01c4fb6a$afd985b0$0202a8c0@ROBBINS1> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original alternator be mounted Hi Dan I had the opportunity to use an engine with the Diehl case and alt installed. I have a lot of electrics and was not impressed with the 20 Amps. I have always used a Volks Power case and pondered just what it would take to transition the Diehl case to work with an external alt. The volks power case(Out of business) uses the magneto drive puck as a V Belt pulley, and has a raised boss for mounting the alternator.. I was typing all the procedures that I would use to convert the case, till I got to the part where I remembered that the alignment of the flywheel gear and the starter mount were such that putting a pulley drive into the case would not work because the flywheel gear runs where the belt would need to exit the case. I determined in the end that it was not worth the effort. Perhaps an alternator could be reworked to mount to the case at the mag drive hole and somehow be driven directly by the flywheel. I would recommend that he decrease his electrical load or sell the Diehl case and find one designed for the external alternator. Orma Southfield, MI N110LR celebrating 20 years Flying, flying and more flying http://www.kr-2.aviation-mechanics.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 21:27:14 -0600 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: KR> carb heat/air box stuff To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <1f8d01c4fb7b$46539b10$1202a8c0@1700xp> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Although Joe Horton emailed me this morning with "STEP AWAY FROM THE COMPUTER AND PUT YOUR HANDS ON THE PLANE!", and I've done exactly that, I feel like I ought to throw this out there...I've been thinking about the carb heat box and that sort of stuff again, and it occured to me that the site at http://www.aviacompworldwide.com/connectors.html might come in handy for other folks facing the same dilema. I already have the heat muff that's designed for 1.5" O.D. tubing (http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1343/index.html ). The carb heat boxes are accessible from one of the tabs up top, but the fittings below are some that you won't see anywhere else. AS&S and Wicks sell some of them, but this is the source of the whole line of the good stuff. I think I'm going to have to make something special for my application, since their Ellison plenum is set up for updraft carb, but I got some of the ideas from the fittings on this site. Basically I'm going to replicate that box in fiberglass, laid up on foam with hideously fabricated valves. I'll let you know how it turns out... Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net -------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 21 ************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================