From: krnet-bounces@mylist.net To: John Bouyea Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 259 Date: 7/4/2005 9:00:19 PM Send KRnet mailing list submissions to krnet@mylist.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mylist.net/listinfo/krnet or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to krnet-request@mylist.net You can reach the person managing the list at krnet-owner@mylist.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Re:Another short report 357CJ (jscott.pilot@juno.com) 2. Re: Staples (jscott.pilot@juno.com) 3. Re: Staples (raybeth123@sbcglobal.net) 4. RE: Arlington Roll Call (Al Hawkins) 5. Re: copper brake lines (Mark Langford) 6. Re: Staples (Dan Heath) 7. Re: rudder trim (Eduardo Iglesias) 8. Re: Sad tale... (robert beckemeyer) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 17:58:48 -0600 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> Re:Another short report 357CJ To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050704.175853.2560.1.jscott.pilot@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I would not advise using copper for brake lines. Typically you will see aluminum or stainless steel, or a braided line. Mine ar Aluminum. Once every year or so I usually post the sad tail of one of our local pilots that burned up his Defiant following the rupture due to heat of nylaflow tubing for the brakes. The hydralic hit the hot brakes and caught fire. Destroyed his plane. Plastic tubing should never be used where it may be exposed to heat. Jeff Scott N1213W On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 14:23:47 -0500 "Mark Langford" writes: > Joe Horton wrote: > > >I have enough > > tubing there to make the repair but I will be installing a short > braided > > tube to make the connection from the nyflo tube to the caliper. > > Another option would be copper in the same size for a few inches, > with a > union joining up to the original Nylaflow. The copper would > dissipate heat > pretty quickly, so by the time it got to the union, it wouldn't be a > hazard. > This kind of stuff won't happen in the future, because you won't be > doing > much braking after you're flying. > > Good luck, and stay out of the ditches. In a few weeks you'll be > wondering > what all the fuss is about... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to > N56ML "at" hiwaay.net > -------------------------------------------------------------- > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 17:53:18 -0600 From: jscott.pilot@juno.com Subject: Re: KR> Staples To: krnet@mylist.net Message-ID: <20050704.175853.2560.0.jscott.pilot@juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Try waxing the staples with floor wax before you load them in the staple gun. I shot a bunch of waxed staples into the side of my KR today. I'll give you the results after I pull them tomorrow. Jeff Scott N1213W Los Alamos, NM On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 21:18:31 -0700 "Joe Beyer" writes: > I agree that staples are the thing to use. You've got to have a good > bond > and weights will distort and twist the structure. In the '70's > someone > mailed in an article to the news letter about a method of removing > staples. > Have a pattern drawn on the belly skin on both sides. one is the > glue area > (inside) and the outside is the staple guide. Get some plastic band > strap > material, used for fastening boxes to pallets, and tape it over the > staple > guide lines. Metal won't do. When shooting staples you go through > the band > strap and then through the skin. The next day when the glue has > dried just > pull on one end of the band strap to lift the staples. I didn't use > this > method myself because at the time I hadn't thought of it. It really > isn't > that much work to use a chisel to lift the staple up and grab it > with a pair > of pliers. I filled the indentions with plastic wood that I bought > at the > hardware store. >> Sure would be nice not to have to remove those >> staples. > > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at > http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 19:54:15 -0500 From: Subject: Re: KR> Staples To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <00a901c580fc$1118a970$be4c5844@DELL> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original I put a string, or light cord, under my staples. Then, I pulled the string and pulled up one staple end. Pliers took care of the other half.. Ray Goree ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 6:53 PM Subject: Re: KR> Staples > > Try waxing the staples with floor wax before you load them in the > staple gun. I shot a bunch of waxed staples into the side of my KR > today. I'll give you the results after I pull them tomorrow. > > Jeff Scott > N1213W > Los Alamos, NM > > On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 21:18:31 -0700 "Joe Beyer" > writes: >> I agree that staples are the thing to use. You've got to have a good >> bond and weights will distort and twist the structure. In the '70's >> someone >> mailed in an article to the news letter about a method of removing >> staples. >> Have a pattern drawn on the belly skin on both sides. one is the >> glue area >> (inside) and the outside is the staple guide. Get some plastic band >> strap >> material, used for fastening boxes to pallets, and tape it over the >> staple >> guide lines. Metal won't do. When shooting staples you go through >> the band >> strap and then through the skin. The next day when the glue has >> dried just >> pull on one end of the band strap to lift the staples. I didn't use >> this >> method myself because at the time I hadn't thought of it. It really >> isn't >> that much work to use a chisel to lift the staple up and grab it >> with a pair >> of pliers. I filled the indentions with plastic wood that I bought >> at the >> hardware store. > >>> Sure would be nice not to have to remove those >>> staples. >> >> >> _______________________________________ >> Search the KRnet Archives at >> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net >> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html >> >> > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 18:07:08 -0700 From: "Al Hawkins" Subject: RE: KR> Arlington Roll Call To: "'KRnet'" Message-ID: <000a01c580fd$de308490$6702a8c0@mycomputer> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I will be there if three thing happen: 1: My fixed aluminium landing gear is repaired, it cracked vertically between the axle bolts, happened after the test period. The landing gear cracked after a large bounce, it was probably fatigued due to multiple ground loops. I tried to order a new one from Grove, but they have a 8 week lead time currently. 2: My C of A arrives before Friday, it was mailed today. 3: The weather, right now long term forecast does not look good. Robert Pyra will also try and be there as well with C-FAFY. Al Hawkins KR2 C-GDPU Port Coquitlam B.C. V3C 5Y7 -----Original Message----- From: krnet-bounces+awh.hawkins=telus.net@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-bounces+awh.hawkins=telus.net@mylist.net] On Behalf Of John Bouyea Sent: July 4, 2005 3:17 PM To: 'KRNet' Subject: KR> Arlington Roll Call The Northwest Regional event is just a few days away. I'd like to meet up with any and all at the Arlington Fly In to talk KRs and hopefully see Al's newly fledged airplane. X-SM-SEEN-40BD0F1D: 04.07.05 18:01:41 X-SM-From: johnbou@speakeasy.net+- X-SM-SPAMMARK: @WL X-SM-SPAMRATE: 0 Al, Bud, anyone else? Should we meet at 10 on Saturday morning by the fire pit? John Bouyea KR2 - hanging the engine accessories KR2S - boat hanging from the rafters john_0310@bouyea.net www.bouyea.net _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 20:08:35 -0500 From: "Mark Langford" Subject: Re: KR> copper brake lines To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <019701c580fe$119a71b0$1202a8c0@1700xp> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > I would not advise using copper for brake lines. If you do the math on it, the softest copper should still be stronger than Nylaflow. If you rule out copper, I'd say you also have to rule out Nylaflow. Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net -------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 21:08:26 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) From: "Dan Heath" Subject: Re: KR> Staples To: Message-ID: <42C9DD8A.000005.00196@DANHOMECOMPUTER> Content-Type: Text/Plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I will be interested to know what affect, if any, the wax has when you try to paint. See you in Mt. Vernon - 2005 - KR Gathering See N64KR at http://KR-Builder.org - Then click on the pics There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for building has expired. Daniel R. Heath - Columbia, SC -------Original Message------- Try waxing the staples with floor wax before you load them in the staple gun. ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 14:40:24 -0300 From: "Eduardo Iglesias" Subject: Re: KR> rudder trim To: "KRnet" Message-ID: <000301c580fe$1e0cc8d0$fe6e55c8@iglesias> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Mark The "P effect" can be compensated inclining the motor toward the same side that the ruder pedal is used. Habitually it is used among 1º to 1,5º. This way you can avoid the abusive use of trimer, because it increases the induced drag. Obviuosly, you can do it by adding washers in the anchorage of the motor. But, I think you knew this. My contribution to the general confusion. Eduardo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Langford" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 9:53 AM Subject: KR> rudder trim > KRnetHeads, > > Joe Horton was asking me about my rudder the other day, and got me to > thinking about rudder trim on KRs. When I first started flying, I had > to keep a good bit of left rudder in, just about all the time except > for landing, and a LOT in climbout. That added to the pilot workload > more than you would think, and I found myself pushing on both the left > (because of habit) AND the right both at the same time during > landings, which is not good for the cables or the bellcrank. I really > couldn't get a good feel for the rudder because of the huge bias I was > having to apply just to keep the ball centered. > > I finally broke down and added a trim tab after I saw the one on Bill > Clapp's plane. Mine is pretty much just like his, about 6" tall and > 1.25" wide. I started with a piece of 6" x 2.5" x .025" thick 6061-T6 > aluminum, and folded it over about 30 degrees at the midpoint to make > the thing shown at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/rudder_trim.jpg . > I found that it still wasn't enough, so I bent it to about 45 degrees > and now it's just about fine. It really will eliminate one more thing > that occupies your mind while you're doing your first flights. Do > yourself a favor if you're getting ready to fly and add one of these > BEFORE you fly. You're going to need it anyway, so get it over with. > > As you can see from the photo, mine's just bolted on for the moment. > Bill just sliced his trailing edge and floxed his in between the > glass, but my trailing edge is all flox, so I couldn't do that. Mine > really needs to be epoxied and feathered in place, and I guess I'll do > that before it goes back to the airport. Ideally, you could cant the > tail something like a degree during construction and gain the same > thing, but when I build mine I was going to run a Type 4 off the > "correct end", but I wasn't positive, so I left the rudder centered so > I could "go either way". > > Troy Petteway does his trim with a cable and a spring connected to the > rudder pedal. That works great with an 0-200, because it pulls on the > left pedal so the control can be fastened to the fuselage wall, but > for VWs and Corvairs it would have to be the right pedal, so it needs > to be panel mounted. He drilled a hole in his panel with a little > slot at the bottom of the hole, and uses one of those little "ball > chains" like you see on old ceramic light fixtures. He has certain > balls marked for climb and cruise, and pulls the chain out to the > right color and drops it in the slot to set it. That works too, is > adjustable for different flight regimes, and leaves no tab on the > outside. Maybe I'll do that instead, come to think of it... > > Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama > see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford email to > N56ML "at" hiwaay.net > -------------------------------------------------------------- > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > --- > [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus] > > --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus] ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 19:18:45 -0700 From: "robert beckemeyer" Subject: Re: KR> Sad tale... To: , "KRnet" Message-ID: <00da01c58108$55c480b0$f56356d1@owner> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Bob.I have a similar situation as you do,but not quite as bad.My plane was flying when I bought it.Engine problems,lousy wing repair's.Main gas tank (12 gal) too deep,ins.panel only 6 ins high with used beat up inst's. I would be interested in the wings, the engine (if duel ignition) the instruments. MY KR2 is in my garage in Phoenix Az.For the next 3 months I will be in Gilberts Ill (Near Elgin Ill, just west of Chicago Ill).I do not have a printer here,But I would appreciate photo's and prices. ---- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: "KRnet" Sent: Monday, July 04, 2005 12:44 PM Subject: Re: KR> Sad tale... > Don..what would you take for the whole bad deal..and where are you > located..I'm north cen tx..only interested in giveaway price..bob > hailey..bhailey@hcnews.com > > Don Morris wrote: >> >> Hi. >> >> I recently purchased a KR2 project off of ebay, and picked it up this >> weekend. Unfortunately, I have now concluded that this KR will never >> fly. Looking over the log books (and photos) I have come to the >> conclusion that the first two builders did a good job, but the last >> one was a bit of a butcher. He did things like attach the canopy by >> drilling bolt holes through the upper longeron. His fiberglass work >> was unbelieveably bad - the cowl modifications to fit the revmaster >> engine were 3/8 inch thick in the wrong places, and terribly lumpy. >> But, I just couldn't tell the old man that his project would never be >> safe to fly, so I still bought it, looking to get my money back in >> parts (and maybe start my own from scratch later on). The saving >> grace of this all was that he had lots of parts that he didn't build, >> and he bought the best of everything, and he had 2 kits. So, I have >> a lot of stuff for sale. I thought some of the KR'ers on this site >> might be interested, and I hope you will pardon my signing up for the list for this >> purpose. (I also really like KR's, if that counts for anything. >> Witness that I was a "sucker" and bought the project.) >> >> As far as I can tell, I have two complete sets of the guppy landing >> gear if anyone is interested at all. I have a built-per-plans >> tailwheel and a beautiful maule fully castoring tailwheel with spring >> and pneumatic tire. I have all of the metal fittings built up inside >> the plane. I have preformed wingtips (factory new). I have an extra >> pre-molded turtledeck - untouched - and a cowling - untouched also. >> I am not sure which cowling it is. If anyone wants it, they can have >> the one he modified. Those customizing their cowlings heavily could >> probably cut out the areas he changed a lot, and make some use of the >> nose bowl area. I have an extra canopy frame, but it needs repair. >> I have basic VFR flight instruments - brand new never used - all >> available at reduced cost. I have a complete foam set from the mid >> 90's. I don't know if it is age limited at all. Finally, I have the >> real kicker - a zero time (test run only) Revmaster 2100 Turbocharged >> fuel injected engine that makes me go all weak at the knees. It >> really is an amazing engine. >> >> What I would really like to do is sell the engine, mount, possibly a >> cowl, all the accessories, all the fuel system possible, the engine >> instrumentation, and all the applicaple cables, etc. in one place to >> one person. The only thing I do NOT have is the prop. For those of >> you builders out there, this is a chance to be DONE with your >> propulsion system in one or two weekends for a fraction of the cost. >> Another interesting possibility would be for a builder with a boat >> fuselage to buy all the premade metal fittings and such in one chunk, >> and save a lot of time. I really have no plans to sell the fuselage, >> as I feel that it is not easily made airworthy. However, if you know >> what you are getting into, I could be pursauded to almost give it >> away. It still has lots of good stuff in it. I believe the wings >> are good, but if you are interested, you would want to do a close >> inspection. They have wing tanks and strobe wires in them. Oh yes, >> I have good WAFs. >> >> My basic benchmark on price is 50% of cost. I prefer to talk by >> personal email off the list, but I am now a list member, and intend >> to stay that way for some time, so you can also reach me by general >> post. Advice is welcome. >> >> Thanks all for your time, and happy building. >> >> -Don >> >> _______________________________________ >> Search the KRnet Archives at >> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp >> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net >> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > > _______________________________________ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp > to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave@mylist.net > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ See KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html End of KRnet Digest, Vol 347, Issue 259 *************************************** ================================== ABC Amber Outlook Converter v4.20 Trial version ==================================